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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 16 May 1998 09:44:41 -0300
Subject: Re: "Hillman - " Re: Champagne British Car Festival (fwd)

C McCartan wrote:
> > From: Gregory Petrolati <gpetrola@prairienet.org>
> > To: Carolyn & Bob Grunau <cgrunau@pathcom.com>
> > Cc: Brian Jenkins <brian@nettrek.com.au>; Gary Thompson
> <singer@xtra.co.nz>; DSand95510 <DSand95510@aol.com>; Billy Zoom
> <billyzoom@earthlink.net>; deedavis@etch-eshop.ME.Berkeley.EDU;
> triumphs@autox.team.net; alpines@autox.team.net;
> british-cars-pre-war@autox.team.net; british-cars@autox.team.net;
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 22 lines)]
> I'll have a cup of tea Mrs Onassis. Rave on John Donne. And you Gregory.
> Has anybody got an idea what a carburettor is?
 A carburettor is device that, when sucked on, releases a fluid,
contained within, into a passing air stream.
    John and Muddy

------------------------------

From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Fri, 15 May 1998 22:07:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Use of Aluminium Nuts and Bolts

Probably because the aluminum is well oxidised and there is no movement
between the two surfaces to abrade the oxide film which acts as a very good
insulater. Aluminum oxide is a very hard material which is why they use it
on "sand" paper. It is also a very good insulator to the flow of electricity
which is what galvanic corrosion is all about. Electricians know all about
the problems with aluminum wiring and the oxide film.Houses have burnt down
due to fires started by the heat created by the resistance at oxidised
connections.It also depends on which stainless steel was used. The worst
(from a galvanic perspective) are type 316 and 317 next,
types302,304,321,347, slightly better, type 430 and higher up the chart
types 410 and 416 .The fact remains however that the farther apart two
metals occur on the galvanic series chart the greater the "potential" or
voltage.generated in the presence of an electrolite (salty water) The mass
and area of contact also come into play. Our problems occur when mild steel
,which is very close to aluminum on the galvanic scale decides to devour the
aluminum since the steel is more "noble" (monel,titanium,3 series stainless
are a long way away at the opposite end of the chart and under the right
circumstances would munch their way through aluminum in short time). Zinc on
the other hand is less noble than aluminum and consequently in a galvanic
couple situation the aluminum will try to devour the zinc but zinc of course
will try to self heal any abrasions. Hands up anyone who has seen galvanic
rot underneath a galvanised body capping.I often wonder whether the
accelerated corrosion problems being experienced on the new vehicles is
related to the paint substrate or primer preventing the aluminum from
oxidising and once the paint flakes off you have instantaneous galvanic
coupling (sounds dirty doesn`t it). Remember ........death, taxes, and
corrosion are inevitable,so whats the answer.
Most metals are more noble (that word again) than aluminum and so any of
them on that side of the scale will to some degree or other and under the
right circumstanses "eat" aluminum,. on the other hand Magnesium,Zinc and
Beryllium are about the only metals that are less noble than our beloved
Birmabright and in a coupled condition the aluminum will try to eat the
,.......yes, ......the galvanised material.But not very successfully.Zinc
(galvanised) material is the best metal to place against aluminum in our
situation.I use stainless bolts on all my floor fasteners but they are all
isolated by the hot dipped heavily galvanised plate washers  like very small
sacrificial anodes. Do not use electro plated type as they tend to rust
before you get them home.Remember also that stainless bolts are not strong.
Land Rover did an excellent job on the earlier models, their plated washers
seem to last forever, similarly the shock bolts that go through the frame
which have that green goober on them.I have never seen one that
corroded.Maybe we should dip our vehicles in that stuff whatever it is. The
other solution to galvanic corrosion involves electrical isolation or
Di-electric separation but thats another story.
And I said I wasn`t going to get into a dissertation on this ! ! ! ! ! I
have to go, it`s a beautifull morning and I have to lift a motor into the
Lightweight. Think Zinc..
jory bell wrote

> fwiw, i've had very good luck with stainless fasteners in rovers.
> ::jory
> >Use zinc plated mild steel nuts and bolts but use hot dipped galvanised
> >washers
>          [ truncated by lro-lite (was 21 lines)]

------------------------------

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Sat, 16 May 1998 20:12:02 -0600
Subject: Re: Diesel Starting Probs

Dennis,
confirm fuel floww through the CAV pump, check the glow plug for propper
luminition, and confirm that the fuel flow throught the injectors is in
propper timeing.

Also check the connection at the bulkhead of the power source to the
glow-plug leads.

Yours
JOhn
SIII 109 2.25 D

------------------------------

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Sat, 16 May 1998 20:14:00 -0600
Subject: Re: Unleaded Heads

Buy a new one form BPI, Turner, or Auto Reman Comp Inc.
No sympathy from me...I'd love to be talking pounds cost instead of dollars
conversion!

YOurs,
JOhn

------------------------------

From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Date: 	Sat, 16 May 1998 17:32:08 +0200
Subject: Re: brake booster compatability

At 09:09 1998-05-15 +0100, you wrote:
>Hello, a brake booster question here.
>I am still in the process of disassembling two '88's, one petrol and 
>one diesel and am wondering if I can use the vacuum brake booster 
>assembly  of the petrol '88 SIII 1975  together with the diesel 
>engine. Are these two units the same? Or should I stick to the 
>corroded diesel unit? Anyone any wishdom on this one?   
>Regards,
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
>e-mail adress
>Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

I have a question related to th eone above. Have anyone tried to get a
better vacuum by adding a vacuum pump from another vehicle?

Peter
--------------------------------------
Peter Thoren 
1975 109" SIII Diesel
Member #1379 Swedish Land Rover Club
Långmyrtorp
740 20 Vänge
Sweden
phone/fax +46 18 39 20 56
peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se
--------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Ned Heite <eheite@dmv.com>
Date: Sat, 16 May 1998 12:45:49 -0500
Subject: Power outlets

A few weeks back, there was some correspondence about the "trouble
light" outlets on  dashboards of Series machines. The red-and-black
sockets provide un-fused 12-volt current, but few if any of us has the
trouble light that the Prince of Darkness intended.

Some time ago, I fitted a Radio Shack cigar-lighter outlet with a pair
of jacks on a pigtail. The jacks fit nicely into the trouble light
outlet holes,  which provided juice for a variety of plug-in
applications. The jacks worked for a while, but eventually became loose
and cranky.

Then I made a permanent hookup. The sockets are basically brass bolts
with one end hollow. So I drilled out the rest of the metal and ran the
pigtail wires in from the front. Then I soldered the ends of the wires
to the hidden (inside the dash compartment) end of the receptacles,
being careful not to get solder on the threads.  Then I remounted the
two receptacle bolts, and I have reliable 12v power for the portable
radio and phone. It's neat and doesn't change the appearance of the
vehicle, except for the cigar lighter swinging from the dash.

------------------------------

From: "Stephen C. West-Fisher" <steve@cds.calabash.nc.us>
Date: Sat, 16 May 1998 07:38:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Use of Aluminium Nuts and Bolts

On 15-May-98 d.h.lowe wrote:
> to place zinc (galvanising) steel against the alum. If you wish it is
> acceptable to use stainless (although not in areas requiring grade 5 or 8
> strength bolts) hardware just as long as you use hot dipped washers.Zinc is
> less "noble" than aluminum and therefore becomes sacrificial to the alum.

You may also want to go down to your local boating store and purchase a small
tub of Lanocote. It does a pretty good job of creating a barrier between the
bolt/washer/nut and aluminium.
----------------------------------
Steve West-Fisher
steve@cds.calabash.nc.us
----------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Elwyn York <Elwyny@mailshuttle.com>
Date: Sat, 16 May 1998 19:06:10 +0100
Subject: Engine & Hybrid For Sale

Hi Folks

Managed to get my engine in today. Eventually.  It did not want to go, it
prefered to be sitting slumped on the drive than in an engine bay! Finally!
Should be going by tomorrow night and i will be mobile again!

Next Part.

A freind popped by today and mentioned he was selling his motor.  Here it is.

	Tax Exempt V8 Hybrid SWB

Full Rebuild
"90" Front
Disco Wheels
New Ragtop
109" Brakes with servo
Winch Bumper
CB Ariel
Dixon Bate Tow Hitch
Cadbury Purple Colour
MG Metro Seats
Rear Wheel Carrier
SAT's
1971 "K" Plate
... Too many bits to mention.  If you are interested then mail me (list or
direct) and i will pass on Mick's Telephone Number for you to speak to him.
His asking price is £2300 (UKP 2300)

Cheers for now
Landrover S3 Lightweight
WebSite & LR: Still under construction & repair.
http://www.ey-eg.demon.co.uk or http://members.aol.com/elwyny

------------------------------

From: "S. Vels" <dko5319@vip.cybercity.dk>
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 22:16:10 +0001
Subject: Land-Rover chat room.

Hi all.

I have set up a chat room for Land-Rover owners. The URL is:

http://users.cybercity.dk/~dko5319/LRD/mainchat.html

Hope to see some of you there.

rgds
sv/aurens

------------------------------

From: "S. Vels" <dko5319@vip.cybercity.dk>
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1998 22:56:30 +0001
Subject: Land-Rover Chat Site

Hi all

My first message seems to be lost. I have set up a chat site for 
Land-Rover owners only. The URL is:

http://users.cybercity.dk/~dko5319/LRD/mainchat.html

Come have a look.

It's going to be part of a bigger poject, but more on that later.

rgds
sv/aurens

------------------------------

From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Sun, 17 May 1998 00:08:58 +0200
Subject: Re: Land-Rover Chat Site

S. Vels wrote:
> Hi all
> My first message seems to be lost. I have set up a chat site for
> Land-Rover owners only. The URL is:
> http://users.cybercity.dk/~dko5319/LRD/mainchat.html
> Come have a look.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
> rgds
> sv/aurens

Excellent facility! Thanks Soren, nice chatting to you.
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za
http://AfricanAdrenalin.com

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sun, 17 May 1998 00:05:51 +0200
Subject: Re: Galvanic madness

I have had great success with the use of thin rubber (1.5mm) strips
placed between aluminium and steel - like the following classic problem
areas - 

Between rear cross-member and tub
Between tub and seatbelt anchors
Between front wings and radiator panel
Between seat console and floor rails
Between floor plates and mountings
Between radiator console and front chassis cross member

Combines with a thick coat of paint on both parts, and zinc washers, the
galvanic madness has been slowed dramatically.

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

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From: "Paul (SpikE) Cook" <spike@acay.com.au>
Date: Sun, 17 May 1998 09:42:49 +1000
Subject: re:It's alive!/passed a SIII in Palos Verdes
	charset="iso-8859-1"

Hiya,
I am considering doing that gearbox conversion my self. Is there any =
real advantage to using the series3 clutch mechanism over the series 2a =
one ?. I have access to a reco series 3 box and the mechanic said he can =
put the series 2a clutch gear on the box for me to save having to change =
and modify for the series 3 clutch gear.

Any comments please :)

Paul

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------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258 <CIrvin1258@aol.com>
Date: Sat, 16 May 1998 21:09:15 EDT
Subject: Re: It's alive!/passed a SIII in Palos Verdes

Paul,

What he wants to do, is to use a SIII gearbox, with a SII bellhousing. A neat
idea if you don't want to change anything, but it does involve cracking open
the replacement gearbox - which I didn't want to do. I know of a few trucks
that are set up like that, and they run just as good.

Charles

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Sat, 16 May 1998 21:22:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Galvanic madness

In a message dated 5/16/98 6:47:02 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
channel6@post2.tele.dk writes:

<< I have had great success with the use of thin rubber (1.5mm) strips
 placed between aluminium and steel - like the following classic problem
 areas - 
  >>

Here in Boring, Maryland, USA, we use a product called "Plastidip".  It can be
dipped like onto tool handles or washers, or sprayed on like on seatbases or
rear crossmembers.  It comes in a variety of colors, even clear and leaves a
relatively tough rubber coat after it dries.  It's only been two years since I
used it but it is still in place and I see no signs of corrosion yet.

Nate

------------------------------

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