Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

From: Paul Wakefield - Serco <Paul.Wakefield@esrin.esa.it>
Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 13:42:30 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Welcome back

: Rolls Royce, A high priced yuppie-mobile with cab forward design?
: 
: Douglas Boehme
: '95 Red D90 #2767 "Fritz"

Wow, Welcome back Doug, did you defect to the cso list for a while ??

We just need "Uncle" Roger Sinasohn back and we'll have a full set !

Cheers,

Paul.

------------------------------

From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard)
Date: Fri, 08 May 1998 07:19:30 -0700
Subject: TeriAnn's "essay"

Hi Con,
Just to emphasize:
One of the things TeriAnn mentioned is the clearance at the front of the
head being close to the water pump.
If the head has been milled 1/10", ( to 8-1) then there is a very good
possibility the head is hitting the top of the water pump.
A small hit, but it could stop the head from seating completely.
I've seen it for sure.
If this causes the headgasket to not seal completely, It could give you bad
running, but with the compression test being ok it makes you wonder.
The compression test is turning a lot slower than a running engine however.

Something to look closely at.

Cheers,
Bob B

------------------------------

From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 08 May 1998 11:16:41 -0700
Subject: Re: TeriAnn's "essay"

Bob and Sue Bernard wrote:
> Hi Con,
> Just to emphasize:
> One of the things TeriAnn mentioned is the clearance at the front of the
> head being close to the water pump.
> If the head has been milled 1/10", ( to 8-1) then there is a very good
> possibility the head is hitting the top of the water pump.
> A small hit, but it could stop the head from seating completely.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> running, but with the compression test being ok it makes you wonder.
> The compression test is turning a lot slower than a running engine however.
>.
 Now that I talked to Tom, he did say he had the head planed after all! 
So, TeriAnn may have hit on it. I'm over there in about three hours time 
and gonna take a close look. It could be a comedy of errors that gives us 
a poor result! Thanks for emphasizing!

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: William Dan Terry <wterry@netpubsintl.com>
Date: Fri, 08 May 1998 09:49:13 -0600
Subject: MUST SELL FAST

1966 IIA 109 mil hardtop

Fort Collins, CO, USA

~6k miles on RN trans w/ OD, HC head, front axle rebuild (new swivel
balls, bearings...), new Zenith carb w/ selection of jets, springs,
alternator, brakes (master cyl, wheel cyl, lines, shoes, drums), clutch
(new master and slave), tires, seats, front prop shaft, front splash
panels, one new fuel tank (other is original), Def rear fog and backup
lamps, front exhaust pipe, anti-burst door latches, passenger side-step,
seatbelt pickups for full shoulder retractables.

Serious inquiries to wterry@netpubsintl.com. Will entertain all
reasonable offers. Regret losing La Rana (the frog), but finances force
sale.

Peace, William
 
_______W__i__l__l__i__a__m_____D__a__n_____T__e__r__r__y_______
  How do we acquire wisdom along with all these shiny things?
  (David Brin)

------------------------------

From: William Dan Terry <wterry@netpubsintl.com>
Date: Fri, 08 May 1998 10:03:26 -0600
Subject: Series Parts For Sale

Must clean out fast, make offer.

Fort Collins, CO, USA

- Civ fuel tank, filler neck and body fitting, cap, locking hasp, filler
hose, $120/obo, will sell in parts

- 2.25l head rebuild parts: intake valve guides, exhaust valve guides,
valve seats, valve cover gaskets, oil seal and gaskets/front timing
cover,
$85/obo

- used seat backs from IIA, one with a small tear in side, other with
breaks in seams between center parts and sides, foam good, make offer.

- IIA splash guards, used, $10/each

- non-Landy Isuzu cassette/stereo and 4 speakers, electronic, from
Special Equipment Trooper, $35.

Series brake adjuster kit, replacements for cams adjusters. Have three,
will sell individually or as set, new. $8 each or $20 for the three.

Series front vent knob, uses little screw to stay on, (not sure which
versions used what style, mine was press on L shaped hole), new, $1

IIA press in wheel studs w/ 15/16 flat-side nuts, new, 2, $12

IIA petrol cap and Lucas 7mm Premium wires, new, $15

IIA upper right front door hinge, used w/ new bolt, spring, bronze bush,
locker and nut, $12

2.25 part gasket set, none of the large gaskets, but probably all and
more (multiples) of the small ones, $25

wterry@netpubstinl.com

_______W__i__l__l__i__a__m_____D__a__n_____T__e__r__r__y_______
  How do we acquire wisdom along with all these shiny things?
  (David Brin)

------------------------------

From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 12:50:41 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Clunk Re-visited

	Here is an update of one of my problems I posted a few weeks ago.
I'm not shure what parts I'll need for the repair. I'd like to have them
all there so I can attempt it in a weekend. Can you experts out there offer
me some more advice - thanks for your previous replys.

	At the end of a hard slow down, I sometimes get a clunk clunk...
maybe about 5-7 times. Now, a few months ago a serviceman told me my right
top kingpin is worn. I checked it again and the top of the wheel moves in
and out, along with (but to a lesser extent) the bottom of the wheel. The
left/right play in that wheel is just a tiny bit, and the other wheel moves
with it. It didn't seem like there was any in/out play. Could this free
play make that clunk?
	 Now, do I just replace what is worn, and the seals I remove to get
at that part, or do I replace all the seals, and all the worn parts? What
is your philosophy here?
 	It is my daily driver, and I can't have it out of commision for a
week - and I've got to do the work on the street, and hence can't leave it
there hanging apart for too long.
	 I've also just bought a parts rover, and I was thinking I'd pull
that apart for parctice, and to see if I could swap parts - but I don't
know how worn they would be already.

	Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!
	Peter (there will soon be a LR in my basement) Kaskan

-----------------------
Peter M. Kaskan
Uris Hall 231
Dept. Of Psychology
Cornell University
607-255-3382
pmk11@cornell.edu
-----------------------

------------------------------

From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 13:22:37 -0400
Subject: Special Forces SOV

Well, they're back again. This weekend is the annual Armed Forces/Civil 
Service recognition thingamajig here on the Mall in Washington DC. 
Located at the Capitol end, there are displays for every branch of 
gubment, just about (drug-runner interceptor boats, cop cars, 
helicopters...). Among the shining stars is the Special Forces Land-Rover 
Special Operations Vehicle. This particular one has a 40mm grenade 
launcher where the TOW missile usually lives ( guess they got tired of 
singed necks ) on the rollcage. 'F'yer in town drop by and tell 'em you 
have a Land-Rover too! (Blank stare)

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: Michael Fredette <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>
Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 10:25:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Clunk Re-visited

 
 	At the end of a hard slow down, I sometimes get a clunk clunk...
 maybe about 5-7 times. Now, a few months ago a serviceman told me my right
 top kingpin is worn. I checked it again and the top of the wheel moves in
 and out, along with (but to a lesser extent) the bottom of the wheel. The
 left/right play in that wheel is just a tiny bit, and the other wheel moves
 with it. It didn't seem like there was any in/out play. Could this free
 play make that clunk?
 -----------------------
 Peter M. Kaskan

Peter,

   I would strongly suggest you replace your U-joints, as they are almost
 certainly the cause of your clunk clunk clunk. The thing is, they can be 
 worn enough to give the clunks, but not show it on wiggling your drive
 shaft. The drive train may be under tension or the play can be very slight.
 Anyway, u-joints are cheap, and easy to replace yourself if are patient
 and have a bench vice or small press. The top pin wear should also be 
 taken care of, but thats not what's causing your clunks, that's your drive
 shaft flopping on it's worn u-joint. Also be sure and replace the bolts that
 attach the drive shaft to the flanges at the diff and xfer case, DON'T re-use
 old fasteners in this critical area, they are cheap anyway. Also be sure and
 check the tightness of the big nut holding the drive flanges on, they are
 supposed to be cotter keyed, but people get lazy and leave them off, DON'T
 as a loosening nut will also cause the clunking, which means you've damaged
 the splines on your input shafts, a much more expensive and hassle prone fix.
   When you replace your top pin and Railco bushing, also replace the bottom 
 bearing. It's cheap, and since you have to have them press out the old Railco
 bush anyway, have them press out the old bearing race, then press in new bush
 and bearings and your ready to go. A new swivel seal here as well. Basicly, 
your
 overhauling a swivel joint to fix that top pin problem. Do you have 
Free-wheeling
 hubs, and if so do you keep them turned in on occassion? Failure to do so is 
the
 reason your top pin wore out. There is a small hole in the bottom of the Railco
 bush that allows 90wt thrown up from the spinning half-shaft to lube that 
 top pin. When the hubs aren't turned in, no oil gets to it, it then dries out
 and rapid wear ensues, the Railco-bush is made of soft brass/bronze, so a big
 steel pin rotating dry in there just does a number. Also be sure to set the
 pre-load on the Railco bush with the shim pack to 12 bls or so, this is 
CRITICAL
 for stable steering. Hope this helps. 

Rgs
Mike 
101FC

------------------------------

From: Michael Fredette <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>
Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 10:53:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 101' prices

 
 Who would want a 101. If you can get them to go that in it's self is a
 challenge, and the ones that I have seen get stuck in parking lots and get
 washed down little streams. Or was that a big stream, and a wet parking
 lot.  
 
Mary, Mary,

     Ah jealousy, it's a terrible thing. A shame to see it rearing it's 
 ugly ugly head here :^)

Mike 
101FC

------------------------------

From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 16:55:27 -0400
Subject: re: CBs

I went with a Cobra model that has the three NOAA weather frequencies--I
use this more than the "CB" function, but that might be a sailing thing--
one-button access to channel 9, and some sort of propriatary
signal_tracking/anti-noise/"looks good when we write about it" (but does
seem to help a bit) circuitry. Cost was about $80 at a truck stop in PA. I
was on my way to a rally and my then current 16-year old Radio Shack
"one-hander" (Don't say it Bobeck...) had stopped transmitting--but not
receiving--six months after its total immersion in the waters of Lake
Ontario. Unfortunately I didn't get the chance to exchange the two
radios--and of course during the course of the day I really needed to use
it.

With CB a decent antenna, antenna cable, and location are probably more
important than the radio itself. All of the major brands are pretty much
alike, and most will be satisfactory. Installation will be the key to peak
performance.

I'd also look for a model that has a replaceable microphone. First, it's
the bit most prone to damage. Also, you might want to add an amplified mic
of some sort. Don't currently have one but I've used them in the past. They
can help clean up your signal a bit too. (I'll leave it to the real radio
experts on this forum to explain--or argue--this point.)

For the record I have some noise issues with my installation that I need to
make time to work through. So it goes.

RoverOn!

jab

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life,
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

From: Elwyn York <Elwyny@mailshuttle.com>
Date: Fri, 08 May 1998 22:46:21 +0100
Subject: Ping

Just a check,
PING

------------------------------

From: GElam30092 <GElam30092@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 21:08:23 EDT
Subject: New Land Rover magazine

There appears to be another Land Rover publication on the horizon.  From
http://www.worldoffroad.com/news/news.htm#lrm

comes

"The same publishing team that bought you Land Rover Owner magazine before its
takeover by a multi-national publishing giant, and that in recent years has
bought you International Off-Roader magazine, is now launching a new
publication known as Land Rover monthly, following a contractually-enforced
four year layoff.   LRM will feature an improved and strengthened team of
writers and photographers, and will contain information on cutting-edge
technology, green lanes, cars to die for, modifications, workshop techniques,
world travel, full tests and off road sports.
 

 WOR are very pleased to announce that we will be associated with LRM; the
first issue of which will be available from newsagents from June 29th.
If you would like to subscribe to LRM, the first 12 issues cost £32.40 with a
free LRM T-shirt. Alternatively you can try the first six issues at an
introductory price of only £10.00. Email us now for further details or
telephone +44(0)1449 736966 (fax +44(0)1449 736977)."

Their email address is lrm@worldoffroad.com

Later...
Gerry Elam
PHX AZ
 

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Fri, 08 May 1998 21:11:06 -0400
Subject: Transfer box question

Nate, it really depends on the depth of rust on the teeth, if it is surface
rust it will disapear the first time you use low ratio. If the rust is deep
pitted then it  may  have passed through the hard skin of the gear and life
could be reduced since the likelihood is that with persistent use you will
end up with the hard surface of the teeth flaking away. 
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: Keith Elliott <cv64@glen-net.ca>
Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 22:07:49 -0400
Subject: Bye for a while...

Hi guys,

    I am off for a week so I am unsubscribing, (Gone to Alaska :)  Yes Dixon I 
am unemployed!) 
Talk to you all when I get back.

Bye

Keith

1961 Series II 88"
Ottawa

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Fri, 8 May 98 19:45:06 -0700
Subject: Re: TeriAnn's "essay"

> Now that I talked to Tom, he did say he had the head planed after all! 
>So, TeriAnn may have hit on it. I'm over there in about three hours time 
>and gonna take a close look.
;
Use a sheet of paper for a feeler guage.  If you can slide one between 
the head & water pump you should be OK.

TeriAnn Wakeman              I subscribe to several high volume mail
Santa Cruz, California       Lists and do not read every posting. 
twakeman@cruzers.com         If you send me direct mail, please start
www.cruzers.com/~twakeman    subject with TW-  so I will know to read it.

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

From: "Erik Jensen" <roverstar@hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 08 May 1998 21:45:21 PDT
Subject: RE:Rolls Royce Again

>From what I understand, BMW was the one who merged with Rolls Royce, so 
we can now  have the the Silver 325i.
Erik Jensen

------------------------------

  END OF * LIST DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 16 lines 663 [forwarded 17 whitespace 0]
 Output: lines 524 [content 432  forwarded 13 (cut  4) whitespace 0]

This has been the last portion of the lro-digest-ltd

If you would like to unsubscribe from this service contact
Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net and request 'unsubscribe lro-digest-ltd'

The lro-digest-ltd is the same content as the lro-digest, but it is split
into a number of smaller pieces which are limited in size to 400 lines.

This is to allow access by users whose mail servers may not allow larger
messages (typicaly over 30KB).

Today's multipart digest is composed of the following portions:

   lines   chars	portions

Digest Messages Copyright 1990-1999 by the original poster or/and Empire Rover Owners Society, All rights reserved. Photos & text Copyright 1990-1999 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Empire/LRO List of charges for Empire/LRO Policies against the distribution of unsolicited commercial e-mail (aka SPAM). Empire/LRO fees for the distribution of unsolicited commercial e-mail (aka SPAM). Frequently Asked Questions
<--Back	HOME	TOP	Forward -->	height=31 width=88 alt="Made with Macintosh" border=0>