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From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Sat, 9 May 1998 22:02:29 +1000
Subject: CBs

Alan Richer wrote:

>Where to buy?
>Personal opinion, the nearest flea market/pawnshop.
>I've never bought a new one of these, but I usually do
>insist on an on-air test.

Me too.

>Cheap, me? Damn straight. 8*)

Me too!  I bought an old SSB rig for A$25 (US$16).  I can't get a new SSB
unit for under A$300 (US$200) in Oz.  Admittedly, it cost me more for the
circuit diagrams from the USA so that I can fix it if it fails - I am a tech
by trade.

Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, NSW, Australia (02) 4735-6883
Editor, Hillman Owners Club of Australia Newsletter
check my home page at http://www.users.bigpond.com/hillman
for Hillman and Rover

------------------------------

From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Sat, 9 May 1998 23:18:08 +1000
Subject: Winch Danger

Nate wrote:

>Piece of wire maybe, paper clip definitely not.  I have had to try to use a
>paper clip to complete a circuit in an emergency (don't ask why) and found
>that under load, it burnt up in seconds.  This was with a relatively small
>electric motor, definitely not of the size used in most standard winches.

Nate, all the paper clip does is allow the solenoids to operate i.e., it
does the same job as the hand controller switch so it doesn't carry much
power

Ron

------------------------------

From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Sat, 9 May 1998 23:24:38 +1000
Subject: Electrics

From: <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Wed, 6 May 98 07:04:41 -0700
Subject: Re:
;>Sean Morrison asks:
;>
;>>Does anyone know off hand if anything has to be changed in the
;>>distributor when converting from negative earth to positive earth
Ron wrote
;>Yep - nothing.  Nothing is polarity conscious.

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:

>The coil is polarity conscious.  You need to reverse the two
> low voltage wires going to the coil.

I was specifically answering the question about the distributor 8-)

But, the coil isn't really polarity conscious, it is merely an
autotransflormer.  However, having said that, I understand that better
performance can be obtained from the coil if the connections are reversed as
Teri-Ann wrote.

In earlier years some coils were marked IGN and CB on the top whereas most
asre today labelled merely + and -

Ron

Ron

------------------------------

From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Sat, 9 May 1998 22:11:55 +1000
Subject: Painting SIII engine block

Adrian Redmond asks:
>What does the book of experience say about painting engine blocks?
>What type of paint is recommended?

I just use engine enamel available from the local suto parts stores.  It's
available in brush on or spray cans.  It lasts for years (but we don't have
snow and stuff on our roads).  The colour ramge is limited but usually
includes the standard engine colours e.g., Ford blue, Holden Grey, or Blue
or Red, Chev colousrs etc.  (we are in Oz so we get all the US engine
colours too)..

Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, NSW, Australia (02) 4735-6883
Editor, Hillman Owners Club of Australia Newsletter
check my home page at http://www.users.bigpond.com/hillman
for Hillman and Rover

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sat, 9 May 98 06:51:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Electrics

;>;>Sean Morrison asks:
;>;>
;>;>>Does anyone know off hand if anything has to be changed in the
;>;>>distributor when converting from negative earth to positive earth
;>Ron wrote
;>;>Yep - nothing.  Nothing is polarity conscious.
;>
;>TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
;>
;>>The coil is polarity conscious.  You need to reverse the two
;>> low voltage wires going to the coil.
;>I was specifically answering the question about the distributor 8-)
;>
;>But, the coil isn't really polarity conscious, it is merely an
;>autotransflormer.  However, having said that, I understand that better
;>performance can be obtained from the coil if the connections are 
reversed as
;>Teri-Ann wrote.
;>
;>In earlier years some coils were marked IGN and CB on the top whereas 
most
;>asre today labelled merely + and -
;>
;>Ron

Coil polarity deturmines if the spark jumps from the plug's center core 
to the outer contact or the other way around.  This determines how the 
plug will wear and how long it will last.

TeriAnn Wakeman              I subscribe to several high volume mail
Santa Cruz, California       Lists and do not read every posting. 
twakeman@cruzers.com         If you send me direct mail, please start
www.cruzers.com/~twakeman    subject with TW-  so I will know to read it.

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 9 May 1998 07:20:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Painting SIII engine block

Ron,
I have tried all sorts of paints, including model paints - which hold up
pretty well).
Humbrol matt65 (a model paint) is a very close match for the original colour
of your (and my) engine.
I did spray clear acrylic enamel on the paint to both protect it and
increase its shine.
It seems to hold up well, better than most. It comes in little 1/2 oz tins
and it takes 2 tins to do the topsides and 2 more for the lower stuff.
I liked it - I was able to paint the head, waterpump and all 'top' visible
areas of the block with this paint - it went on smooth and covered in one
coat!

Cheers
David
Full-time father of a 3.4 year old
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
S/V KALAKALA, Ingrid 38, ketch - our home

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sat, 9 May 98 10:30:40 -0700
Subject: Border to Border journal being uploaded

Hi
I kept a journal about my experiences on the recently completed 
Trans-American Border to Border Trek.  I am in the process of typing the 
journal entries onto my web site.  If you are interested in experiencing 
the trek from the viewpoint of me and car #23, The Green Rover, you may 
log into my site and read what I have typed so far.  I will be a^Adding 
pictures when I get them developed and digitized.

These journal entries represent my own daily experiences of the trip.  If 
you would like to join me on this trek, the journal is on my web site { 
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman }.

When you get to the front page, press the Land Rover button at the bottom 
navagational panel. This will take you to my Land ROver related index 
page.  There you will find a section labeled Some adventures and trips.  
In that section is a link called "April '98 Border to Border 
Trans-American Trek"

I have the trip into Moab Utah entered so far.  I will be transcribing 
the rest of the trip as I get time.

Take care

TeriAnn Wakeman              I subscribe to several high volume mail
Santa Cruz, California       Lists and do not read every posting. 
twakeman@cruzers.com         If you send me direct mail, please start
www.cruzers.com/~twakeman    subject with TW-  so I will know to read it.

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Berry <jaberry@sprintmail.com>
Date: Sat, 09 May 1998 16:48:10 -0500
Subject: Re: D90 for sale

Pardon the cross post. I guess I must part with, as my wife says, 'the other
woman' due to financial reasons with the closing on my house. Here are the
vitals:
1994 D 90, Alpine White, Excellent condition, 1995 Bestop soft top, removable
1/2 roof rack,13 gal auxillary gas tank with sending unit to gauge, 2 jerry
cans, cruise control, 60K mostly highway miles,  air conditioning, Clarion
CD/4 Alpine Marine speakers, rear seat, bimini top, LR wrap around brush bar,
full safari cage, Dynamat Acoustic dampening throughout inside and under
hood. $25,000.00 or Best. You can call or email me directly. (850) 897-2559

***Jeff and Kelly Berry, Niceville, FL
    **----jaberry@sprintmail.com

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 01:08:30 +0200
Subject: Re: Painting SIII engine block

Well I looked for paints which are specifically designed to give a gloss
coat to a diesel block, and found nothing, so I decided toaccept the
colour limitations of paint for tractors, which are diesel and which
must run at least as hot as a rover 2,25.

Choices were -

Ford		Blue
John Deere	Bright green
Deutz Fahr	Dark green
New Holland	Yellow
Ferguson	Stoneliegh Grey
Massey Ferguson	Red
IH		Red
Case		Black

Nothing resembling the Qualcast/Rover yuckyy green - so I plumped for
the John Deere Green. Not original, but having spent the day at the
operating end of a paintbrush, I must say that I'm pleased with the
results.

I removed all the external bits - oil filler downpipe, manifold, fuel
pump, distributor pump, and replaed these with aluminium or wooden
"gaskets" to keep the indside oil inside whilst I washed the block with
oil remover and a high pressure jet - an hour in the sun and it was
ready - paint job wnet like a dream, covered in one coat, but gave it
two to be sure.

Tomorrow its painting all the external bits (black) and painting the
frame - by the middle of the week this 88" will be being rebuilt. All
that's left is finding a galvaniser who can do the firewall and radiator
console.

Has anyone been successful at painting galvanised parts? I have small
worries about the ability of the paint to key to the galv?

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 9 May 1998 19:20:20 -0700
Subject: Re: Painting SIII engine block

I once painted my LR engine in the same colour!
Wash the galvanizing with an acid (vinegar) - then wipe down with a chem
wash/cleaner - then use a primer for galvanized steel - ZnCr is good enough
and common.

Cheers
David
Full-time father of a 3.4 year old
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
S/V KALAKALA, Ingrid 38, ketch - our home

------------------------------

From: CBeireis <CBeireis@aol.com>
Date: Sat, 9 May 1998 23:36:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Painting SIII engine block

how about oliver green-we have  a tractor supply co. that must have at least
20 gal. of this stuff.

------------------------------

From: "T.D.I.Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 10:17:50 +0100
Subject: Re: Clunk Re-visited

Peter writes....
--------------------
Now, do I just replace what is worn, and the seals I remove to get
at that part, or do I replace all the seals, and all the worn parts? What
is your philosophy here?
It is my daily driver, and I can't have it out of commision for a
week - and I've got to do the work on the street, and hence can't leave it
there hanging apart for too long.
I've also just bought a parts rover, and I was thinking I'd pull
that apart for parctice, and to see if I could swap parts - but I don't
know how worn they would be already.
----------------------

If you are going to the trouble of dismantling the whole swivel, then it is
a false economy not to replace all the bits that wear. Check the workshop
manual for all the gaskets, shims, bearings etc. that you will need, not
forgetting the other things like new ball-joint split pins, jointing
compound, spring balance (for setting swivel preload), Loctite thread glue,
hub nut lockwasher etc. that the manual never mentions until you need them.
If you have a parts vehicle, why not recondition one of the swivels and hubs
on that first? You can then clean/paint up the bits and assemble all the
tricky stuff (such as pressing in the new bushes and setting the correct
preload) in the comfort of you workshop/kitchen ready for a relatively quick
fitment onto your main LR.

Tom Stevenson
SNL Mussel Project
University Marine Biological Station, Millport, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
Tel: 01475 530581  Fax: 01475 530601  Email: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
Web page: http://www.gla.ac.uk/Acad/Marine/

------------------------------

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