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From: Jarvis 64 <Jarvis64@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 07:27:02 EDT
Subject: CBs

Hi everyone,
I reckon I ought to buy a CB before my journeys/rallys this summer.  

Anyone have any strong opinions on brands to look for/avoid?

Should I just buy a cheapie @ WalMart?

Thanks for any input. 
Bill Rice
Watertown (5 weeks here left) NY
64 109 SW

------------------------------

From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 07:31:01 -0500
Subject: winch danger

Cut-off switches are a good idea for any working vehicle whenever the power
must be left on while people are not in the car. When I rewired Baby this
winter, the winch controller was moved to the dashbord (cheap kit from
Superwinch) and a cut-off switch was installed on the breakfast. The
cut-off switch is a standard part from the auto supply, but SWMBO has a
sign shop, so she made Baby a red plate labelled "Kill Switch" so that it
can be found in emergencies when I may not be able to help. The switch
mounts next to the battery, so minimum rearrangement of the wiring was
necessary.

    _____
___(_____)
|Baby the\           Most problems in life have a single right
|1969 Land\_===__    solution and a single wrong solution, only
|  ___Rover   ___|o  one of which may involve duct tape.
|_/ . \______/ . ||
___\_/________\_/________________________________________________
Ned Heite, Camden, DE  http://home.dmv.com/~eheite/index.html

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 07:31:40 -0400
Subject: Re: CBs

Where to buy?

Personal opinion, the nearest flea market/pawnshop. I've never bought a new
one of these, but I usually do insist on an on-air test. The one Mr.
Churchill presently sports was made in the late 1970s, and gets used
because it fits the connectors and mount of my 2-meter transciever
perfectly. This way, I can swap antenna masts and rigs for whatever I want
to be doing with little effort.

I've also never paid more than $10 for one.

Cheap, me? Damn straight. 8*)

I have a personal taste for older units - in comparison with the new
el-cheapos, the noise rejection and receiver sensitivity seems better. This
isn't measured, of course, but more Mk. 3 hairy eyeball opinion from
listening to too many receivers for too many years.

Pity you're not closer - I probably have 2 or 3 units lurking around my
garage....

                         Alan R.

------------------------------

From: Peter Goundry <peterg@aircast.com>
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 08:03:06 -0400
Subject: $30k for a 101!!  Wow,

To true Bill, dropped by Blanchards in March and they had a beautiful 
101 EFR for sale for 3000 pounds. Only the year was wrong, to young! 
If anybody has $30,000 to spare for a 101, I will go to England to get 
one for them (and one for myself gratis)

Peter Goundry
67 GS109" IIA, 73 Lightweight, 97 D90 #127

------------------------------

From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 22:35:54 +1000
Subject: 530 Landies at Cooma

Check the photo at 

http://4wd.sofcom.com/News/1998/980410.Cooma1.html

for the image of all those Landies.

Ron

------------------------------

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 07:52:38 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: CBs

On Thu, 7 May 1998 Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com wrote:

> Personal opinion, the nearest flea market/pawnshop. I've never bought a new

This is probably the way to go.  However, if it is important to you,
Uniden still makes some CBs that can be used with positive earth systems. 
I have a 510 -I think- which can do that.

David

------------------------------

From: Dave Haynes <David.Haynes@roke.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 13:52:02 +0100
Subject: Recovery Points

Craig Morgan asked about recovery points and rear towing gear.

I've got David Bowyers front hi-lift adapters fitted and I'm very happy
with them. I've had my rangie pulled out of some very sticky clay mud on
Salisbury Plain this weekend with no problems or signs of strain. They
also work very well with the hi-lift and 90/110 nose adapter.

The only problem I had with fitting was finding a bolt to pick up the
panhard rod carrier on the nearside. The adapter fits each side with
three holes -  the 2 bumper mounts and the panhard rod mounting (which
is of course only fitted on one side). I used M10 x 120mm 8.8 High
Tensile. I intend to replace the bumper bolts with HT bolts as well when
time permits. The holes in the adapters for the bumper bolts seemed too
large to me, but it hasn't moved under jacking so I guess its OK.

I also have the DB rear hi-lift adapter plate, which bolts under the
tow-ball. I've not used it in anger but it looks strong enough to me
to take some serious abuse. My Rangie had the 4 position towbar fitted
when I bought it, two bolt through the chassis and two stays forward to
the chassis pick up points. I removed the whole lot, cut the drop plate
in half and re-fitted it using new bolts. The stays have the same M10 at
the front (cos I bought a box and they are the right size) but I've only
used M8 where the stays meet the drop plate (also cos thats what
fitted). I recovered a hybrid up a steep incline (and also pulled it
back onto its wheels at one stage) last weekend and the bar shows no
sign of strain. Since the bottom of the drop plate is now raised by 3
inches or thereabouts, its a lot less inclide to bang on the deck or do
plough impressions now. The lack of bracing at the bottom of the plate
doesnt seem to cause a problem, though I couldn't claim to have tested
the front or the back to the limits.

The chassis pick up points at the back are substantial, so you might
also consider making up something similar to the DB front units. That
would allow you to have a better angle than even my shortened towbar
allows.

THINKS - 'Hmm, a bobtail would be even better. I wonder if...........'

Cheers

Dave

------------------------------

From: mark.luker@virgin.net (mark.luker@virgin.net)
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 13:59:20 +0100
Subject: Information For UK Listers. 

For any listers in the UK, who arn't already aware.

On BBC2's TOP GEAR this evening @ 8:30, there is a bit on Landrover's 50th.

Just so you don't miss it.

Mark.

------------------------------

From: "Hubert J. Greenbaum" <hubie@neo.lrun.com>
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 09:18:32 -0400
Subject: AKA: guru@manhole..... I'm back!!

	Greetings all,

	Well after a LONG 10 months, Ive finally got my life and e-mail sorted 
out enough to re-subscribe to the list ;-))). Greetings and salutations to any 
"old-timers" who may remember me and "Baldrick" (SIII FFR 109).
	Just a quick testament to the strength of the old LR's, I managed to 
drive Baldrick from Baltimore to NE Ohio on two cylinders (I knew something 
would go wrong as I was too well prepaired ;-) ). I picked him up from the dock 
in baltimore, 
checked the lights and everything worked so far, pushed in the hazard switch 
and it stuck on (shorted switch). Bad omen of the things to come ;-). So 
disconnected the swich and also lost the turn signals in the process ;-). Drove 
out of the parking 
lot and the engine started missing a cylinder, cue instant panic ;-). Stop and 
check some things but no appearant indication of whats wrong. So off we go, 
more than a little nervous about the 400 mile drive ahead. All's well till the 
Penn. 
mountains, start going up and about the time I get to the top I loose another 
cylinder. Start going down and picking up speed (going up was a 25-35 MPH 
affair) and the third cyl. came back online long enough to get me started back 
up the next hill 
where the process of loosing the 2'nd cyl would begin again ;-(. About 50 miles 
from the Ohio border I lost the 2'nd cyl for good ;-(
	To make a long story short, fearing two burnt valves, I pulled the 
spark plug from #4 only to have the "innards" of the plug fall into my hand, 
talk about instant relief. Seems what was happening was that with #4 dead, the 
unburned mixture 
from there would foul #3 out when I put a load on the engine and it would clear 
when I went downhill. Anyway, true to form, He got me home!!!

	As an aside, if Richard Marsden(?) is still on the list, did you ever 
get your SIII up and running?
Also does anybody know if BRLRC has any "doins" during the week? I had these 
visions of becoming involved with the club untill I got a job where I only work 
on the weekend ;-(((. Anyway sorry for the rambling and if anybody here sees an 
OD green 109 
tooling down the road in the vicinity of Akron Oh, gimme a wave ;-))

	Cheers,
	Todd

------------------------------

From: Solihull <Solihull@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 10:32:17 EDT
Subject: Re:  Removing tranny from engine

If rust has caused the input shaft to seize on the clutch disc, you would have
this problem. Remove the shifter and undo the clutch pressure plate bolts so
it's loose too. Problem is, if the disc is seized to the flywheel or
presplate, too, that'll still be a bear. Hang in there! See you this summer in
GA!
Cheers!!
John Dillingham
near Canton, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
Vintage Rover Service, since 1994, where we say:
Land Rovers for Agriculture!
Land Rovers for Industry!
Land Rovers for Recreation!
Land Rovers forever!! D.V.

------------------------------

From: Solihull <Solihull@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 10:35:03 EDT
Subject:  Re: 2.5 into 2/3 will go

I put a 2.5 gas in a IIa a few months ago. Only had to ever-so-lightly ream
the holes out for the slightly beefier bellhousing studs. It was to a s3
bellhousing, tho.
Cheers!!
John Dillingham
near Canton, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
Vintage Rover Service, since 1994, where we say:
Land Rovers for Agriculture!
Land Rovers for Industry!
Land Rovers for Recreation!
Land Rovers forever!! D.V.

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 16:31:34 +0200
Subject: Painting SIII engine block

What does the book of experience say about painting engine blocks?

I have a completly naked frame and motor at the moment, so the paint job
will be easy, before the new firewall is fitted.

My engine is originally a yukky pastel green (which i am sure has an
official name).

I am not worried about originality, I just want a clean, light glossy
cover, which can withstand the heat and make it easy to clean and find
oil leaks.

What type of paint is recommended? Names and part numbers are not a lot
of use, as (besides Hammerite) there are few foreign paints on the
market here in Denmark - so i am looking for advice about paint types -
does it need to be high temperature paint, or will "ordinary" mechanics
enamel gloss do the job?

Has anyone tried using hammerite for the engine block - my local farm
implement workshop has a nice shade of green on stock - will Hammerite
be OK?

Words of wisdom from the University of Life warmly welcomed...

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 11:11:11 EDT
Subject: Re: Painting SIII engine block

In a message dated 5/7/98 11:05:15 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
channel6@post2.tele.dk writes:

<< What type of paint is recommended? Names and part numbers are not a lot
 of use, as (besides Hammerite) there are few foreign paints on the
 market here in Denmark - so i am looking for advice about paint types -
 does it need to be high temperature paint, or will "ordinary" mechanics
 enamel gloss do the job? >>

Here in rural US of A, most auto parts stores carry various colors of engine
paint, which is a high temperature paint that also tends to resist oil,
petrol, vibration and expansion of surfaces.  I have actually used it on a
stove which I wanted to repaint as well. (white gloss)

Before painting, mask off the mating surfaces and orifices.

BTW, my new engine is Buick green (kinda bluish-green)

Nate

------------------------------

From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 09:37:51 -0700
Subject: 2.25 Petrol Woes :-(

Have you checked or replaced your plug wires lately? Are the valves
adjusted properly? I've had problems because of both of these, although
they weren't on my rover. Good luck.

Jim Hall  jimfoo@uswest.net
'66 88 pickup, now wearing it's soft top

------------------------------

From: Craig Morgan <C.Morgan@soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 16:38:46 +0100
Subject: Re: Recovery Points

At 13:52 07/05/98 +0100, you wrote:
>Craig Morgan asked about recovery points and rear towing gear.
>I've got David Bowyers front hi-lift adapters fitted and I'm very happy
>with them. I've had my rangie pulled out of some very sticky clay mud on
>Salisbury Plain this weekend with no problems or signs of strain. They
>also work very well with the hi-lift and 90/110 nose adapter.

Sounds good ... looks like two of these just got added to the proverbial
upgrade list ... I've got the nose adapter on order any way.

>The only problem I had with fitting was finding a bolt to pick up the
>panhard rod carrier on the nearside. The adapter fits each side with
>three holes -  the 2 bumper mounts and the panhard rod mounting (which
>is of course only fitted on one side). I used M10 x 120mm 8.8 High
>Tensile. I intend to replace the bumper bolts with HT bolts as well when
>time permits. The holes in the adapters for the bumper bolts seemed too
>large to me, but it hasn't moved under jacking so I guess its OK.

So what did you do on the near side then ... only two bolts (!) or have
you drilled out a mount on the chassis?

>I also have the DB rear hi-lift adapter plate, which bolts under the
>tow-ball. I've not used it in anger but it looks strong enough to me
>to take some serious abuse. My Rangie had the 4 position towbar fitted
>when I bought it, two bolt through the chassis and two stays forward to
>the chassis pick up points. I removed the whole lot, cut the drop plate
>in half and re-fitted it using new bolts. The stays have the same M10 at
>the front (cos I bought a box and they are the right size) but I've only
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
>doesnt seem to cause a problem, though I couldn't claim to have tested
>the front or the back to the limits.
 
Mines the four bolt setup as well, I've considered shortening the drop
plate, which has the advantage of the increased clearance with some 
remaining protection for the tail - but I can't help feeling that dropping
it off might not be a better proposition.

Last Sunday, I spent two hours recovering a RR pick-up up a long, very
steep incline, burning out rubber on the rear tyres and warming up the 
rear axle nicely ... not a sign of stress on the current hitch, which is 
bl**dy amazingly strong!

>The chassis pick up points at the back are substantial, so you might
>also consider making up something similar to the DB front units. That
>would allow you to have a better angle than even my shortened towbar
>allows.

I was thinking more along these lines to be honest, I took a look at the
rear hitch adapter and was'nt sure that I really wanted to be lifting
(but more importantly - casting the vehicle) via the tow hitch mount. I
have visions of catching the hi-lift somewhere with the tow ball and
ending up in a mess.

>THINKS - 'Hmm, a bobtail would be even better. I wonder if...........'

Don't want to go halves do you ;-)

I've been toying with the idea of a bob-tail, maybe pick-up, for a few
months (years really!), what with hammering the road car, etc. Having
chatted to a few guys at Sundays event who romped around in a few
old hammered RR pick-ups, I like it even more. The simple approach of
an earlier RR would also be nice, my '90/91 RR is a bit too techie when
something goes wrong ...

Having glanced through this months LRW in my lunchtime (five bobtails
on test!), the hankering is just getting worse ... now how can I sneak
another RR past SWMBO's nose!

>Cheers
>Dave
>would allow you to have a better angle than even my shortened towbar
>allows.

Thanks for the feedback ... Craig

------------------------------

From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 16:51:31 +0000
Subject: Re: Painting SIII engine block

My engine is originally a yukky pastel green (which i am sure has an
>official name).
Probably Yukky Pastel Green.....:-)
Has anyone tried using hammerite for the engine block - my local farm
implement workshop has a nice shade of green on stock - will Hammerite
>be OK?
I wouldnt use Hammerite,since it isnt oil or fuel proof,only waterproof.

As Nate says,you need a heat resistant enamel of some sort.
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY <AKBLACKLEY@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 11:56:49 EDT
Subject: Petrol Woes (wont run)

Sounds like an ignition problem. The bad distributor cap is the most obvious.
Check the points for evidence of grounding or arching, and be sure that the
points are properly isolated at the mounting post. Also, if not correctly
installed, the arched spring on the points can contact metal and ground out
the points when the advance mechanism starts to work. Cheers, Andy Blackley

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Thu, 7 May 98 08:59:45 -0700
Subject: Re: 2.25  Petrol Woes :-(

;>The facts: 1964 petrol, recon head w/hardened seats
;>           Zenith rebuilt carb, good exhaust and intake manifold
;>           new cap,good coil, new rotor button, points and cond and 
plugs

;>The problem: It will not run very good

;>       On start up, it will fire on the very first turn but only 
running 
;>a few cylinders. Isolated the non-firing cyls as #1 and 2. Short #3 or 
4 
;>and it drops rpm, but no change when shorting out 1 or 2. No difference 
;>in rpm even when we took off the leads to both 1&2 at the same time. 
So, 
;>we hooked them up again, brought up the revs to about 2000 and pulled 
the 
;>leads off 3 , then 4. It ran, but not good. Drop in revs killed the 
;>engine. Checked for fire in all leads, good. Changed plugs, cap, 
;>switched wires, no difference. Compression test and all's well, about 
150 
;>in each cyl. Vacuum leak, only a tiny bit around throttle shaft, made a 
;>difference of about 100 rpm's with propane. After all tests were done, 
we 
;>still ended up with an engine that only wants to run on 3 and 4.
;>  Pleeeeezzze, any ideas???

Welllll Lets see.

For a cylinder to fire it needs:
 - The piston going up & down
 - Enough compression to suck an air fuel mixture in, push exhaust out 
   and to compress the air fuel mixture
 - Intake and exhaust valves opening and sealing at the right times
 - An air fuel mixture of a correct ratio pulled in on the intake stroke
 - A good strong point of ignition at the correct time

Diagnosing the problem is a matter of checking each of these items to 
make sure that they function properly.

I'm bothered by the mention that the problem is in two adjacent 
cylinders. This feels significant.

There is a piece of information missing that could be significant.  How 
did the problem appear?

Did you do a valve job and now it doesn't work?
Did you do a tuneup and now it doesn't work?
Did it just happen as you were using the car after the reconditioned head 
was installed and you have added the tune up parts to fix the problem?

Knowing the circumstances of how the symptoms appeared affect guesses as 
to who the lightly suspects are.  For instance I have installed new parts 
that were faulty.  Things like a genuine Land Rover flexible hose that 
had a crimp that closed off the hose inside and a distributor cap with a 
center spring missing so it did not ride against the rotor.

You say that you have ran a compression check and everything was OK.  did 
you do this with all the spark plugs out, or with one out and the other 
three in.  There might be a piece of head gasket missing between 
cylinders 1 & 2.  If you just installed the head something may have 
prevented a proper torque up front on the head.  The front of the head is 
awfully close to the water pump.  I once had a clearance problem there 
prevent a good head torque.

If you ran your compression check with all the plugs out and all 
cylinders were close, compression is probably not the problem.

If you have just placed the head on the engine, I would be tempted to 
pull the valve cover and have a friend turn the engine over with the 
crank while I watched the valves.  This would be more easily done with 
the spark plugs out.  Watch the intake and exhausts to make sure that 
they are acting like the others and that the open and closed heights look 
the same as the others.  It could be that you might not have found the 
tappet socket with the 1 & 2 exhaust push rods.  Or maybe something 
happened to cause the push rods to get bent.  It never hurts to adjust 
the valves.  You might have a valve adjusted too tight to close properly.

So if you have assured yourself that you have proper compression across 
all cylinders and that your intake & exhaust valves look like they are 
opening and closing correctly look at the spark.

Pull the #1 spark plug and connect it to the spark plug wire. Hold the 
plug at the thick rubber wire connector using an insulated tool.  There 
are special plastic pliers for doing this.  If you use the wrong tool you 
will get a shock.  Place the plug next to the engine while turning the 
engine.  You should see a strong blue spark between the plug and engine.  
If you do not get a spark or it is a yellow colour you have a problem in 
the ignition circuit. 

Oh you should check to make sure that the ground strap between the engine 
and frame is in place and has good connections.  Engines have preformed 
poorly just because they did not have a good return path for th 
electricity.

You did not mention replacing plug wires.  It is possible that your front 
two plug wires have problems.  Or there may be a problem getting 
electricity from the rotor through the cap contacts to the wires.  

Do this again for your #2 plug.  You can use a known good cylinder for 
comparison.

A way to cheat is to take the car to a shop and have them put it on a 
scope.  They can tell you the condition of your ignition system in just a 
few minutes.  

If you have good compression, working valves, good strong blue sparks, 
the problem could be the fuel system.  A partially clogged fuel system 
can behave remarkably like a ignition system problem.  There was one time 
I spent all my spare time for a week futzing around with points and 
timing to try to cure what I KNEW to be an ignition caused problem.  It 
cured itself instantly when I changed the fuel filter.

One piece of information that you didn't mention was how the spark gap of 
the plugs looked.  They can tell you a lot.

Anyway, I think I have given you enough to keep diagnosing your problem.  
Just look carefully at each thing that needs to be at the cylinder for it 
to work properly.  You will find it.

Good luck

TeriAnn Wakeman              I subscribe to several high volume mail
Santa Cruz, California       Lists and do not read every posting. 
twakeman@cruzers.com         If you send me direct mail, please start
www.cruzers.com/~twakeman    subject with TW-  so I will know to read it.

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Thu, 7 May 98 08:59:38 -0700
Subject: Re: CBs

;>I reckon I ought to buy a CB before my journeys/rallys this summer.  

;>Anyone have any strong opinions on brands to look for/avoid?

;>Should I just buy a cheapie @ WalMart?

Hi Bill

I am not a CB expert but I love to put my US$ 0.02 in ;*)

When I went shopping I picked a CB capable of receiving the weather 
channels.  This automatically put me in the mid range point.  I use the 
weather channel each morning on trips when I'm in receiving distance of a 
weather transmitter.

It seems that what you connect to a CD and how you do it may be more 
important than which brand you purchase.  

The itsy bitsy speaker inside the tiny radio case is difficult for me to 
understand.  I installed a 5 X7 inch external voice speaker.  It made a 
real improvement for me.

There are a bunch of different kinds of antennas.   Each have their 
advantages and disadvantages.  You might browse through a book on CBs to 
find out that the tradeoffs are before you invest.  I went with the long 
whip antenna.  It can double as a flag pole in the dunes (as if a 5200 
pound mobile home belongs in the sand dunes).  Where you mount the 
antenna makes a difference.  The body of the car acts as a ground plane 
and affects your antenna's receiving pattern.  I mounted my antenna on 
the rear so that it would be least likely to be damaged by brush.  My 
longest reception and transmitting distance is to the rear of the car.  
So if I want to communicate as far as possible, I point the car away from 
the direction I want to speak. 

 Also this put my antenna and wire as far away from the engine as I could 
get it.  Spark gaps are excellent transmitters on all frequencies.  On 
the recent Border to Border trip I have someone mention that his radio 
only seemed to work properly when the engine was off. The antenna was 
mounted via an 'L' bracket to a windscreen base bolt.  They neatly routed 
the antenna wire inside the engine compartment alongside the coil and 
through the bulkhead. I suggested that the ignition was the source of 
their static and that they could do a quick fix by rerouting the wire 
through a scuttle vent.  It helped a great deal making the radio usable, 
but they still had to keep the squelch level up higher than I did and 
missed some of the weaker group conversations.

The antenna needs to be tuned for maximum performance.  With some 
antennas you adjust the length of the antenna buy cutting the tip off.  
On the long whip antenna, you do it by adjusting th length of the wire 
going between the antenna and the CB.  You can by a meter, use it once & 
put it away until you get a new radio or new antenna or have a CD shop 
adjust it for you.  It cost me less to have a CD shop tune mine then to 
purchase a meter.  They added about 3 feet additional cable to tune it.  

On the border to border run, I was one of the cars that relayed messages 
from cars a distance away to some of my neighbor cars.  On the other 
hand, I sometimes overloaded the receiver of a car right next to mine so 
they received a garbled transmission from me.

You also want to make sure that you have a good electrical ground and 
power input for the radio.  My alternator output voltage is higher than 
my battery voltage.  I know I get out a lot stronger  with the engine 
running than I do with the engine off.

Whatever you choose if it works properly you get a new dimension to your 
trips being able to converse with others in your group.

Anyway, that's my US$ 0.02 worth 

Take care!

TeriAnn Wakeman              I subscribe to several high volume mail
Santa Cruz, California       Lists and do not read every posting. 
twakeman@cruzers.com         If you send me direct mail, please start
www.cruzers.com/~twakeman    subject with TW-  so I will know to read it.

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 12:02:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Any trouble with UK parts distributors?

Hi All - (Sorry if you get two copies - and if it's redundant)

	I'm planning on ordering some parts from the UK and having them
sent to the US (NY). I've briefly checked the archives for prior related
comments - but haven't seen much in the way of bad experiences. Are there
any dealers I should watch out for? It sounds like people have had good
luck with Craddocks and Blanchards.

	I'm looking into ordering:

Front end bearings, bushings and seals
	(Should these be "original LR parts"? What dealers sell "original
LR parts?"
	Is there a better aftermarket option?)
Right rear quarter panel for 88in Ex-MoD - no fuel filler hole (1965 IIA)
Rear panels
Correct rivets for reassembly of 88in bed
Full hoop set w/canvas
Military pick and shovel w/brackets and hardware, and jerry can

Do any of you know if I will be saving money on these things - after
shipping and import taxes?
I've checked around in the US and have been unable to find the military
rear quarter panel - anybody out there have one? A few last questions -
what does glazed and unglazed mean wrt body panels - is it just sprayed
with primer? Do the workshop manuals have the micrometer dimentions of LR
parts?

	Thanks in advance - reply to me directly if you think it isn't
relevant to the others.
	Peter (there will soon be a LR in my basement) Kaskan

-----------------------
Peter M. Kaskan
Uris Hall 231
Dept. Of Psychology
Cornell University
607-255-3382
pmk11@cornell.edu
-----------------------

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 12:12:23 EDT
Subject: Re: 2.25  Petrol Woes :-(

In a message dated 5/7/98 12:04:37 PM Eastern Daylight Time, teriann talks
about testing sparkplug wires and holding them:

<<  If you use the wrong tool you 
 will get a shock. >>

DAMN STRAIGHT! Working on my old Willys Jeepster, I held the cap in my hand,
fired it up and shocked the hell out of myself.  Small tear in the old
insulation AWAY from the boot was still close enough to get me.  I think my
heart has been converted to negative earth now.

Nate

------------------------------

From: "Dr R.D.Thomson" <rthomson@mech.gla.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 17:11:07 +0100
Subject: parts suppliers in UK

We've had good mail-order relations with AEW Paddock of Matlock.

Ron Thomson
Glasgow Uni Staff LR Club
http:/www.mech.gla.ac.uk/~rthomson/guslrc 

------------------------------

From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 09:23:43 -0700
Subject: Re: Any trouble with UK parts distributors?

Peter M. Kaskan wrote:

>         I'm planning on ordering some parts from the UK (snip) Are there
> any dealers I should watch out for?

I've had excellent experience with Dingocroft and tend to go straight to
themnow without getting alternative quotes from others.  They've been very
helpful and price
competitive.

I sometimes request quotes for all 3 of the following

Genuine, Original Equipment Manufacture ("genuine without the LR label"),
Aftermarket

If you want parts quickly consider air freight rather than UPS or
equivalent.  I recently
placed an order using air freight and it showed up quicker than the last one
I placed using
UPS and at about 1/3 the shipping cost.  Using either surface or air freight
for a significant
number of parts will mean clearing customs and dealing with brokers.  In my
several experiences
this has been extremeley straight forward but time consuming, but I live near
a port city so
I don't know how that might differ if you don't.

>        Do any of you know if I will be saving money on these things - after
> shipping and import taxes?

My cost savings have varied from 1/3 to close to 0 over both dealer and
RNprices.  Typically I'd say you're looking at saving between 25% and 50%
depending
on shipping choices and quantities.  As an example I work at a LR dealership
and
get an employee discount (cost +10%).  Even with that the cost of bushings
was literally
1/3 from the UK!  Most of my parts come from the UK.

> Do the workshop manuals have the micrometer dimentions of LR
> parts?

Some of them  (engine components mostly).

cheers

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 11:01:41 -0700 
Subject: Rolls Royce again? (No LR)

Hmm,  just heard on CBC that Vickers has conditionally accepted an offer
from VW for the purchase of Rolls-Royce!

Guess Bavarian Motor Works couldn't dig up enough cash!  Land Rover must
be costing them too much :-)

Paul in Victoria.

------------------------------

From: "Chris Dillard"<cdillard@Aholdusa.com>
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 14:20:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Rolls Royce again? (No LR)

Speaking of buyouts and mergers, did anyone see on CBS last night the story
about Chrysler and Dailer-Benz merging?  Any  thoughts?

Cheers,

Christopher Dillard
Database Administrator        Phone: 864-987-8633
BONUSCARD Marketing           Fax:  864-675-5456
Ahold USA (BI-LO Inc.)        E-Mail:cdillard@aholdusa.com
Greenville SC USA

------------------------------

From: =?us-ascii?Q?Douglas_Bohme?= <schailey@uscom.com>
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 14:42:07 -0400
Subject: RE: Rolls Royce again? (No LR)

A high priced yuppie-mobile with cab forward design?

Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767 "Fritz"
schailey@uscom.com

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 21:41:58 +0200
Subject: Re: Painting SIII engine block

Exactly how HOT does a SIII diesel 2,25 ltr motorblock get? 200°C? or
higher?

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: "Clark, Patrick D." <Clark_PD@pillsburylaw.com>
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 14:56:50 -0700 
Subject: RE: Rolls Royce again? (No LR)

Gremlins for $50,000.00

------------------------------

From: "Clark, Patrick D." <Clark_PD@pillsburylaw.com>
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 14:57:43 -0700 
Subject: RE: Rolls Royce again? (No LR)

right...sorry....these Gremlins.....

------------------------------

From: Jarvis 64 <Jarvis64@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 20:19:17 EDT
Subject: Re:  Re: Any trouble with UK parts distributors?

Peter,
I recently thought about ordering some parts from the UK.  I e-mailed Famous
4x4 and they were very prompt and helpful.  However, the estimated shipping
cost they quoted me was so high (70 pounds for tailgate alone, and 120 pounds
for tailgate and 109 hoopset) that it completely negated any savings I
would've gotten on the parts.  So I didn't do it and am still looking on this
side of the Atlantic.

Bill Rice
Watertown NY 
64 109SW

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 20:55:18 EDT
Subject: Transferbox low gear question

Hi all,  

Just found an embarrassing mistake:  After reassembling the transferbox and
output shaft housing, I have now found that the low gear on the output shaft
(straight cut gear with the groove for the selector fork) has 3 teeth which
have some pitting rust on them--no chips or wear marks just rust like where
they were out of the oil for a while (maybe 3 years).

I talked with RN who said, probably should replace because you will never know
when they might go since the hardened surface is missing there.

Then I called British Bulldog (I can never get hold of BP) who said, wouldn't
worry about it.  Transfer boxes are very tough and the straight cut low gear
was never intended to be all that quiet.  If it's not chipped or obviously
worn, don't change it, that's a very tough gear that gives very little
problem.  

Obviously, I would rather just let it go--particularly since low range only
gets used 10-12 times a year.  I don't mind a little (even alot) extra noise
but I don't want to have to get into the box again in the next 5-10 years for
a broken gear.

Anybody else have experience with this?

Nate

------------------------------

From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 20:56:34 -0700
Subject: Petrol Woes, cont......

Hi all!
   Gotta thank all those that responded to my query. I'll try to answer 
all those questions in one post.
   Jim Hall asks if I "replaced the wires lately or adjusted the valves." 
The valves are/were adjusted properly, and also backed them off a bit to 
make sure that there was plenty of free space to see if one was sticking, 
hence the compression test. Also, the wires were switched from back to 
front to see if maybe there was a wire problem, but it still worked 
'exactly the same'
    Andy Blackley asks about the dist. cap, and whether the points are 
properly isolated. The cap was an old one, then switched to another used 
one, then switched to a new one, and the end result was no change. 
However, grounding of the points was not checked, and that will be the 
first order of business on Saturday. ( Would it only affect certain 
pistons ?)
    Alan Richer asks about the compression test done without plugs in 
(yes). and yes, the wires were on correctly. ( It was the first thing we 
checked 3 weeks ago.)Also, the valve cover came off after frustration set 
in, and everything seems to be working properly. One of the things I did 
was to hold down the valve spring with a screwdriver while it was running 
and the cylinder on 3 & 4 died respectively, as was expected, but no 
difference was had on 1 & 2, which we knew wasn't firing anyway. Is gas 
getting to 1 & 2 ? I think so. The intake manifold was replaced with a 
good one (the old one was cracked), and one of the tests we did was to 
rev the engine up and pull #3 wire,(it dropped in RPM) and then #4 was 
pulled, it dropped further in RPM, coughed a little, but kept on running 
but badly.(We looked a each other and figured Dixon ain't got nothin on 
this baby, she's running on 2 dead cylinders and 2 disconnected ones!)
     Peter Kaskan asks if this is a new problem with my daily driver or 
if there's play in the dissy shaft. The LR we are trying to resurrect is 
an old beater my friend bought because he's tired of sitting shotgun in 
mine. The engine ran bad from the outset. The head was cracked, so 
another head was reconed at UAP, hardened seats etc, lapped and installed 
with new head gasket. ( I wasn't there for that part, so I don't know how 
it was torqued) The carb was no good, so a Zenith was redone and 
installed, as was a fuel pump. ( it works great) There is no oil in 
the coolant, or vice versa. The dissy was from a donor vehicle, and there 
is no play in it. As far as there being a blockage in the intake, I 
dunno, can't see it happening in this case as a good one was put on there 
with new gaskets.
     And TeriAnn takes the time to write me an essay! Hey, why don't you 
just saddle up and make one of those neat trips up our way, maybe fix an 
engine or so while your here! So here goes: Most of your questions to me 
are answered by now. At the start, with this crappy running engine, a 
trip was made in the woods with some other LR's. It preformed pretty damn 
good as far as mud and terrain was concerned, only running on a few 
cylinders. (We didn't start to look at making it run better until after 
the trip). That's when we started with the redone head, carb etc. Now, if 
the engine problem can be sorted out, he's going to finish rebuilding the 
Rover to make it street legal. My thoughts were that the problem was 
electrical, but with the strong fire at all cylinders I'm not so sure. 
That's why we tried different coils and changed the wires around, to see 
if we could isolate it. Now, I'm thinking that maybe there might be a 
connection between Pos and Neg ground. Maybe this thing was Pos and all 
the wiring was changed to Neg by the PO. The PO was the kinda guy that 
would use a hammer and spike to put a wing back on a bird to fix it, so 
anything is possible. Another thought was the valve train, but the 
compression tests ruled that out. Cracked block?, the compression test 
should also show that, but as another test to do would be a leak-down 
test. I got the tester, so I might as well try a test on the weekend. You 
mention bad fuel filters. Ok, could be a problem, as I know that there is 
water in there somewhere, (I can see droplets in the inline) and he's 
been running the LR with a rag stuffed in the fill pipe. We'll start the 
weekend with a five gallon jug of fresh gas and new fuel filters so as to 
bypass the fuel tank. My question is though, why would it only create a 
problem with #'s 1&2 cylinders? By all acccounts, this engine should run 
pretty good, so it is really baffling. We'll try the ideas provided, and 
hopefully this LR will soon be making ruts again.

Thanks all !! Muchly appreciated!!

PS. The Rover was officially named last weekend by its owner. The only 
printable name that came out was  "Reject".  So I guess you could say 
it's alive, barely.  

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: "John C. Hinkle" <defender110@email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 20:04:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Transferbox low gear question

Send David Ashcroft a query. He runs Auto Conversions in the UK. Email
info@autoconv.com

Chris Hinkle

------------------------------

From: "MARY THOMSON" <denthomson@sprint.ca>
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 21:43:58 -0400
Subject: Re: 101' prices

Who would want a 101. If you can get them to go that in it's self is a
challenge, and the ones that I have seen get stuck in parking lots and get
washed down little streams. Or was that a big stream, and a wet parking
lot.  

----------
> From: William L. Leacock <wleacock@pipeline.com>
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: 101' prices
> Date: Wednesday, May 06, 1998 9:25 PM
> $30k for a 101!!  Wow,
>  101's can be purchased in the UK for between $5000 and $10,000 , LRW and

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> LROI are full of ads for them. shipping in a container  will cost a few
> thousand, I was quoted $4k for a 20 foot from the UK to my door in NY. 
Nice
> business if you can get it !!
> Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
>  88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 
> Date: Wednesday, May 06, 1998 9:25 PM

------------------------------

From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 21:47:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Any trouble with UK parts distributors?

Peter M. Kaskan wrote:

> rear quarter panel - anybody out there have one? A few last questions
> -
> what does glazed and unglazed mean wrt body panels - is it just
> sprayed
> with primer? Do the workshop manuals have the micrometer dimentions of
> LR
> parts?

Glazed means with glass installed, unglazed means without for panels
with windows.

The LR workshop manuals have dimensions needed during the maintenance
operations, including checking critical parts for wear. The SII/SIIA
manuals include metric equivalents. The LR manuals are the most complete
and thorough, though not perfect. But if you plan to do your own
maintenance invest in a set along with the relevant parts book. The
parts book illustrations are worthwhile just to understand what you're
getting into, and when you need to order parts being able to specify a
part number is very valuable.

Regards, David Cockey

------------------------------

From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 21:57:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Rolls Royce again? (LR content)

Chris Dillard wrote:

> Speaking of buyouts and mergers, did anyone see on CBS last night the
> story
> about Chrysler and Dailer-Benz merging?  Any  thoughts?

Jeep could become much stronger in Europe with assistance from Daimler,
and seriously affect LR sales. However, getting the two organizations
working together with their vastly different cultures will take
concerted effort.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 10:39:01 -0400
Subject: Re: 101' prices

You whining immigrants are all the same. Jealous thats what..........and it
was a very deep river that our resident water baby got stuck in.. John C. you
will not believe what  Aqua Man Tollefson did on his recent trip out West. A
story to put Calabogie in the shade. We will save it for the 50th. and yes it
was a very slippy parking lot.
MARY THOMSON wrote:

> Who would want a 101. If you can get them to go that in it's self is a
> challenge, and the ones that I have seen get stuck in parking lots and get
> washed down little streams. Or was that a big stream, and a wet parking
> lot.
> ----------
> > From: William L. Leacock <wleacock@pipeline.com>
> > To: lro@playground.sun.com
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)]
> > Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
>          [ truncated by lro-lite (was 7 lines)]

------------------------------

From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 22:56:13 -0500
Subject: acquisitions

The BBC World Service business correspondent was bubbling smugly Thursday
morning about all the Germanic business logic behind automotive
mega-mergers, smugly comparing the Chrysler-J**p-Daimler-Benz-Unimog merger
and the takeover of Rolls Royce and Rover by that nasty little German
motorbike company. As a consolation prize, the BBC commentator said, at
least Volkswagen got Skoda! Were they equating Rover with Skoda and J**p?
Anyway, before the day was out, it was announced that VW had bought Rolls
after all, with a sweetened offer.

    _____
___(_____)
|Baby the\           Most problems in life have a single right
|1969 Land\_===__    solution and a single wrong solution, only
|  ___Rover   ___|o  one of which may involve duct tape.
|_/ . \______/ . ||
___\_/________\_/________________________________________________
Ned Heite, Camden, DE  http://home.dmv.com/~eheite/index.html

------------------------------

From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 10:58:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Painting SIII engine block

We use Detroit Diesel Alpine Green which is almost identical to the Military
colour. Lasts O.K and makes it easier to keep the thing clean.
Adrian Redmond wrote:

> What does the book of experience say about painting engine blocks?
> I have a completly naked frame and motor at the moment, so the paint job
> will be easy, before the new firewall is fitted.
> My engine is originally a yukky pastel green (which i am sure has an
> official name).
> I am not worried about originality, I just want a clean, light glossy

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 36 lines)]
> e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
> Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258 <CIrvin1258@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 01:34:40 EDT
Subject: Re: Any trouble with UK parts distributors?

I usually deal with Paddock, though the young lady that used to take care of
me (Victoria) isn't there anymore, and the folks working without her, still
seem to be learning the ropes! They do try, though, and their prices are good.

I emailed Famous 4 once, and it took them 3 weeks to answer! By that time, I
already had received the parts from Paddock!

I've heard good things about Blanchard, and I'd guess that they're the ones to
talk to, if you have an ex-MOD truck, and their prices are great.

Always remember: Ask if the parts are genuine or aftermarket, and if possible,
choose a supplier near London...the farther away from London, the more
expensive shipping can be to the USA (I once had some parts FedExed from
Ripspeed, and it was CHEAPER than having parts UPSed from Paddock!). Also - if
the shipment is UNDER $400.00 in value, there's no duty, and if it's over
$400, then it's .02%.

Make sure that everybody understands how the parts will be shipped (I.E. UPS,
FedEx, air cargo, etc.), as my S-3 tranny that I just got, was supposed to be
sent air freight, and consigned to myself DIRECTLY. What ended up happening,
is that the shipment was send as a consol, to a freight forwarder!. It ended
up costing me another $65.00.

Charles

------------------------------

From: "Said Geoffrey at MITTS" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 07:53:29 +0100
Subject: RE:Re: 2.25 to 2.5 or 2.6L Diesel

But it can be fitted.  Here in Malta we fit also the Turbo diesel and if am not 
mistaken even the TDI engine in a Series III.

Thanks
Geoffrey

Elwyn York:
>To: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
>Ok, I checked with a freind. Basically the answer is NO. The 2.5L D will
>NOT fit into a series 2/3 motor, as the Bellhousing on the g/box is the
>wrong shape.  There may be other changes as well but as i have never tried
>it i dont know.
>2nd. There is a company in "Preens Edy" in Shropshire, called "Phillips"

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 19 lines)]
>Landrover S3 Lightweight
>Elwyny@mailshuttle.com

------------------------------

From: Rovergo <Rovergo@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 03:11:05 EDT
Subject: 2 dead holes

Con, does your rover have brake booster? if so could be vacume leak in servo.
with stock rover plumbing this affects 1-2 most and at idle would be worst is
also hard to locate servo leak with propane as leak would most likly be in
peddle box around pushrod.
 Pat Young
65 11a 88 rhd.

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 08:21:40 +0100
Subject: Re: Rolls Royce again? (No LR)

Now that's interesting, I heard that on the radio today, but not the VW-RR
thing...

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

cdillard@aholdusa.com on 05/07/98 07:20:06 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Re: Rolls Royce again? (No LR)

Speaking of buyouts and mergers, did anyone see on CBS last night the story
about Chrysler and Dailer-Benz merging?  Any  thoughts?
Cheers,
Christopher Dillard
Database Administrator        Phone: 864-987-8633
BONUSCARD Marketing           Fax:  864-675-5456
Ahold USA (BI-LO Inc.)        E-Mail:cdillard@aholdusa.com
Greenville SC USA

------------------------------

From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 08 May 1998 05:48:42 -0700
Subject: Re: 2 dead holes

Rovergo wrote:
> Con, does your rover have brake booster? if so could be vacume leak in servo.
> with stock rover plumbing this affects 1-2 most and at idle would be worst is
> also hard to locate servo leak with propane as leak would most likly be in
> peddle box around pushrod..

It's a 1964, no servo unit. Although the intake manifold is off a Series 
III, we made sure that extra port was well sealed. The intake was 
thoroughly checked before installation, but it was visual, not pressure 
tested.(if you can do such a thing)

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 06:46:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Transferbox low gear question

Re: Swap it or tolerate it:

Tolerate it. Rust pitting is no nightmare, even though not the greatest
thing due to potential stress fractures.

Thetransfer case is simple to disassemble/reassemble in the truck anyway...

               ajr

------------------------------

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