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From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 20:36:29 +1000
Subject: Electrics

Sean Morrison asks:

>distributor when converting from negative earth to positive earth 

Yep - nothing.  Nothing is polarity conscious. 

Ron

------------------------------

From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 20:32:12 +1000
Subject: plague/plaque

Erik van Dyck wrote
>>"there are some that would claim that owning a british vehicle
>> is akin to getting the plague...  ;-)"
>Ok, I meant plaque, not plague.  I guess it was a fruedian slip
>of my finger on the keyboard - or a nut loose on the keyboard ;-)

I dunno.  It seemed eminently suitable and correct the first time as far as
I was concerned. 8-)

Ron

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 08:18:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Winch Danger

In a message dated 5/6/98 4:49:08 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
bomahon@teleport.com writes:

<< hate to say it, but after looking at the innards of the Warn controller
 while I was installing an M10000 on my D90 this past weekend, this is
 definitely feasible.  As they used to say, "any schoolboy" could figure out
 how to power-out or power-in with just a paper clip.
  >>

Piece of wire maybe, paper clip definitely not.  I have had to try to use a
paper clip to complete a circuit in an emergency (don't ask why) and found
that under load, it burnt up in seconds.  This was with a relatively small
electric motor, definitely not of the size used in most standard winches.

Nate

------------------------------

From: Dave Ladell <ladell@proasisn.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 13:18:28 +0100
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Yes, they share the oil.  Fill the transfer box via the o/drive filler plug
'till oil comes out of the transfer box level hole.

>From: Winn Bearden <wbearden@americus.net>
>Date: Tue, 05 May 1998 23:31:29 -0400
>Subject: LT95 Overdrive
>    Does anyone know if the overdrive runs off of its own oil supply (like
>Series), or does it use oil from the transfer case?   I can pull the level

plug 
>on the t/case and then add oil to the o/d and see it immediately  come out
of the
>t/case.  This means either they share oil or the o/d seal is majorly blown
out.

Dave Ladell
'77(now mainly '82) Range Rover V8  Tygger
nr. Buxton, Derbyshire, UK

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 08:36:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Winch Danger

Re: Flaming paper clips:

Been there, done it with small-power motors too. At the time, I was trying
to use the steel wire as a resistor to measure current consumption by
measuring voltage drop and calculating...oops.

However, if you use it to short across the controller contacts it works
nicely. The solenoids don't pull more than a few amps, and the steel wire
will handle that without getting all hot about it.

               aj"E=IR"r

------------------------------

From: Bwana E <BwanaE@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 09:42:30 EDT
Subject: Re: LT-95 lubrication

Winn Bearden queried :
"   Does anyone know if the overdrive runs off of its own oil supply (like
Series), or does it use oil from the transfer case?   I can pull the level
plug 
on the t/case and then add oil to the o/d and see it immediately  come out of
the
t/case.  This means either they share oil or the o/d seal is majorly blown
out. "

And I'll reply : On the LT-95 gearbox, the transfer case portion and the
overdrive were indeed designed to share their oil supply. The correct way to
fill them is just as you described... remove the xfer case level plug... feed
oil into the o'drive until it flows out.
Also, please remember that the LT-95 gearbox does NOT use 90wt... stick with
standard engine oil, I use Castrol 20w50.

Cheers,  Eric. 

------------------------------

From: Peter Venters <venters@atm.ox.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 14:47:37 +0100 (BST)
Subject: Re: 2.5 into 2/3 will go

Elwyn says:

> > Ok, I checked with a freind. Basically the answer is NO. The 2.5L D will
> > NOT fit into a series 2/3 motor, as the Bellhousing on the g/box is the
> > wrong shape.  There may be other changes as well but as i have never tried
> > it i dont know.

Sorry, but it definitely will go. You need to make sure that you get the
correct bell-housing, and I can't remember which one it is off hand, but
it will definitely bolt up to a standard SII box with the use of only
standard parts. I dont think he changed the bell-housing; the engine was
off a B-reg (13 yr old?) 110. The pain and distress comes in needing to
modify the right hand engine mounting, but this is not too bad a deal. 

A friend of mine put a 2.5 diesel into their SII a few years ago. 
Considering that on paper it only puts out an extra 10% power over the
2.25l diesel, and slightly less power than the 2.25 petrol which it
replaced, the converted vehicle goes very well indeed. It will do around
70 fairly happily-ish (750x16 tyres, 4.7 diffs, overdrive). Quiet,
however, is not an appropriate adjective for travel in that vehicle; 
there is no soundproofing. Whatever. Anywhere. They wear ear defenders on
long trips, and are steadily going quite deaf. 

Peter

------------------------------

From: "S. Vels" <dko5319@vip.cybercity.dk>
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 15:48:34 +0001
Subject: Re: The simplest anti theft devices...

> >  Mr. Bean was in Nairobi?
> Yeah, I laughed when I saw that episode with the Mini but I assure you that
> the Nairobi fella had invented the technique well before Mr Bean stumbled
> into life.

Hi all.

A bit late to comment on this thread, but i have actually used this 
technique to ensure that Aurens could be found where i left it in the 
evening. 
Someone tried to steal Aurens by smashing the ignition key cylinder. 
He failed but the cylinder was ruined and i couldn't use my key. So i 
removed the console and used a screwdriver to turn the switch disc. 
At the time the post office workers were on strike and i could not 
get the console i had ordered by mail. The switch disc was just 
dangling in it''s wires. I had to take the steering wheel out every 
time i left the car. One morning i was late for work. I put in the 
steering wheel and put the briefcase in the back, got in and drove 
off. Half way to work i corrected my position in the seat by pulling 
myself up with the steering wheel. HORROR!. I had forgotten to put in 
the centre lock nut!!!. I pushed the wheel back in and nothing 
bad happened. Strangely, Aurens chose these two seconds to show that 
he can drive in a straight line for a short period of time. "Phew!".

By the way, i read in Classic Car that you can get at shut off valve 
for hydraulic clutches. Works like these in-line ball valves that 
plumbers use. 

rgds
sv/aurens

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Wed, 6 May 98 07:04:41 -0700
Subject: Re: Electrics

;>Sean Morrison asks:
;>
;>>Does anyone know off hand if anything has to be changed in the 
;>>distributor when converting from negative earth to positive earth 

;>Yep - nothing.  Nothing is polarity conscious. 

The coil is polarity conscious.  You need to reverse the two low voltage 
wires going to the coil.  The easiest way I know to do this is to loosen 
the screw on the clamp that holds the coil in place, turn the coil 180 
degrees , retighten the coil and replace the coil leads.  This allows you 
to swap polarity while keeping the wires in their correct places in the 
harness.

I wrote an article on how I switch polarity in my 109.  It is in my web 
site.

Take care,

TeriAnn Wakeman              I subscribe to several high volume mail
Santa Cruz, California       Lists and do not read every posting. 
twakeman@cruzers.com         If you send me direct mail, please start
www.cruzers.com/~twakeman    subject with TW-  so I will know to read it.

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Wed, 6 May 98 07:06:02 -0700
Subject: back from Border to Border

>May your crankcase stay filled with oil, tires with air, and radiator keep
>its cool. Lots of good Karma for your trip, 3 weeks means going fast. Take
>lots of photos.

Many thanks!

I just got back.  I ran myself out of film or would still be near Mono 
lake.

I only broke a front axle in deep snow and bent a steering stop climbing 
some slip rock steps. I only had one hand on the wheel at the time.  The 
other was keeping the transmission from poping out of second.  My exhaust 
system is held up by fencing wire and my muffler is leaking real badly 
where the pipe comes in & out. It didn't survive the jaring along the 
trip.  

This was real minor compared to what a number of people experienced.  A 
D90 went on its side out of Moab, several cars, all plushmobiles, had 
broken or bent tie rods, a Discovery had a coil spring try to escape when 
a rear shock came loose, a D110 blew a head gasket, a 109 pickup's engine 
died when it went under water and the car was swept down river mostly 
submerging and going over on it's side, several cars got stuck in the 
river, a D90 discovered what breaks when you wade too deeply, there were 
numerous small dents added to several cars, many diff housings picked up 
dents (Diff protectors would have been a hot seller among the plushmobile 
group); I taught a Range Rover owner how to locate 90 wt reservoirs, 
check fluids and add 90 wt; a couple of V8's developed electronic module 
problems that required them to keep socks full of ice on their coils to 
keep from burning the coils out daily, and I have nicknamed group #2, the 
lost patrol.  These are just the things I remember of the top of my head.

The front axle required me to drop out of the official trip for two days. 
 One to race ahead of the group, diagnose the problem and send a parts 
order to British Pacific.  The second day was spent removing and 
replacing both front axles, the front drive shaft & the diff.  There was 
a bit of spline stuck in the carrier.  I was repaired and back on the 
road about an hour before the Border to border group reached town.  I 
rejoined the official tour out of Moab.

We normally left at 8:00 AM, spent 6 to 10 hours off pavement each day 
reaching the final destination for the day frequently after 9:00 PM.  
Between 9 PMish or later and 8 AMish, we were free to set up camp, eat 
dinner, sleep, eat breakfast, check fluids, get petrol, shop and make 
field repairs.  This seemed to be as much as an endurance run of people 
and machinery as a test of driving skills.  

Towards the beginning of the trip about a third of the people were 
camping.  I noticed that on our second night, I had the only car in the 
camp site with US plates.  All the rest were Canadians.  That night it 
got down to 19 deg F.  That next morning was when I broke a front axle 
trying to transverse deep snow.  Every one got stuck there at least once 
including the 101.

As the trip progressed, more and more people spent the night in a motel 
instead of taking the time to set up & take down camps.  There were a few 
nights that I was the only camper, but I was hauling motel #23 around 
with me.  The night of the Canyon de Chilly river swim, I was wet and 
cold from walking in parts of the river, tired (we got in around around 
10 PMish) and checked into a motel instead of camping in the rain.  So 
there was one night when everyone was in a motel.

Except when I broke the front axle, the Green Rover went every place I 
pointed her first time without hesitation. Coming out of Moab and for the 
rest of the trip, the Range Rover car #13 was frequently right behind me. 
 At our trek completion celebration the owner said he tried to follow me 
to see how I lined up on obstacles so that they could copy it.  He said 
that he knew if he took a obstacle the way that I took it he would make 
it through OK.  That of course made me feel real good. 

I had a lot of fun after the trek in Tucson & the Scottsdale Rover 
centre.  It was great meeting some of the Arizona LR people & of course I 
LOVE showing off all the work I have done on the Green Rover.

All & all it was a good time and a good test of many of the modifications 
I have made on the Green Rover.  The pace was very different from my 
natural leisurely rambling overlanding style.  Marathoning was fun for a 
given trek but wouldn't want to do it all the time.

I guess it's time to unpack the Green Rover, go over the underside to 
check everything for tightness, do something about the exhaust that 
didn't hold up over the last few days of the trip and get ready for 
paradise and the Red Rock run in June. Now if it would only stop raining 
long enough so I can crawl under the car and not be in the mud...

Thanks again for the good wishes.  I'm sure the karmic good will helped!

Take care!

TeriAnn Wakeman              I subscribe to several high volume mail
Santa Cruz, California       Lists and do not read every posting. 
twakeman@cruzers.com         If you send me direct mail, please start
www.cruzers.com/~twakeman    subject with TW-  so I will know to read it.

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Date: 	Wed, 06 May 1998 16:01:16 +0200
Subject: Re: LR Parts, help needed!!

I ordered from FamousFour in April and had no problems. I tried to get
prices from Paddocks and Bristol 4X4 but from Paddocks I never got any
prices and from Bristol 4X4 it took ages (something like 2 weeks).
FamousFour answered next day. For their addresses look at www.FamousFour.com

Good luck,

Peter
--------------------------------------
Peter Thoren 
1975 109" SIII Diesel
Member #1379 Swedish Land Rover Club
Långmyrtorp
740 20 Vänge
Sweden
phone/fax +46 18 39 20 56
peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se
--------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: David Russell <David_R@mindspring.com>
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 10:19:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Winch Danger

Why not just put a battery cut off (for boats, race cars, etc.) in-line
from the battery to the solenoid? I've seen them for less than $20.00US and
if you put it inside the engine compartment you'll at least be forced to
open your hood (to protect your windscreen).

Cheers!

David Russell
1997 Discovey SD 5-speed
90% of the pieces needed for a 1969 SIIA "Bugeye" 88" SW Petrol
1965+/- SIIA 109" P/U Diesel, "Loo" (Thanks DaveB)
1977 Toyota FJ40 Land Cruiser (sort of)
http://www.mindspring.com/~david_r

------------------------------

From: Paul Wakefield - Serco <Paul.Wakefield@esrin.esa.it>
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 16:39:06 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: FWD: Urban Myth - (_Could_ relate to LR dormobiles ?)

I must pass on this bit of urban folklore. I know some of you out there will 
appreciate it. Apologies to the 
non-LR-mail purists.

This is a true story according to a recent issue of Road and Track Magazine:

When a man attempted to siphon gasoline from a motorhome parked on a Seattle
street, he got much more than he bargained for. Police arrived at the scene to
find an ill man curled up next to a motorhome near spilled sewage. 
A police spokesman said that the man admitted to trying to steal gasoline and
plugged his hose into the motorhome`s sewage tank by mistake. 
The owner of the vehicle declined to press charges, saying that it was
the best laugh he's ever had.

------------------------------

From: trowe@cdr.wisc.edu
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 10:10:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Winch Danger

>Piece of wire maybe, paper clip definitely not.  I have had to try to use
a
>paper clip to complete a circuit in an emergency (don't ask why) and found
>that under load, it burnt up in seconds.  This was with a relatively small
>electric motor, definitely not of the size used in most standard winches.

The paperclip would only be used to energize the solenoid (a very few amps
needed)), not run the winch motor.

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 06 May 98 11:10:46 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Removing tranny from engine

Bren.

The last time I had to do this was in my driveway with no lifting equipment, to 
replace a clutch and flywheel bush. The technique that worked for me was to 
1. undo mounts, everything etc.
2. block up flywheel housing.
3. obtain used (broken) series rear halfshaft (short)
4. place halfshaft against front of transfer box housing between the front 
output housing and the main 'box. a block of wood as a cushion is a good idea 
here.
5. lay down underneath the truck with your head in the vicinity of the rear 
axle. using the tranny x-member as a fulcrum, gently kick the living hell out 
of the other end of the halfshaft. This will most certainly lever the 'box out 
of it's resting place. A stout trolley jack or board underneath the 'box will 
keep it from falling on you. 
6. Have beer.
7. Put ice on head where it contacted diff drain plug.
8. Be smug and satisfied that you kept that stupid old broken halfshaft around
9. if you are replacing the gearbox in a truck rather than just removing it    
from a parts car then do replace the flywheel bush, regardless.

later
DaveB

------------------------------

From: Erik van Dyck <erikvandyck@mindspring.com>
Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 11:15:19 -0500
Subject: Prices - older SUVs in US

A coworker who subsribes to the magazine "Classic Auto Restorer" gave me a
copy of an article in the May issue entitled "Sport-Ute Prices Climbing".
The article is by Gregory Costen, who is also the editor of "The Cars or
Particular Interest (CPI) Value Guide", which has been publishing vehicle
pricing information since 1977.  I did not purchase and restore my Series
truck to profit from escalating values, but still found the article
interesting.
The author includes a table labeled "Moving up in Price" that I'll try to
replicate here:

Vehicle:        Date:  Cond. Fair:   Good:   Excellent:  Change:

69-72 Chevy   Apr.96        $2000	   $3350   $5225
Blazer	       Apr.98        $2500    $4175   $6900       +32%

60-73 Land    Apr.96        $4350     $5600   $7600       
Rover 88      Apr.98        $5375     $6800   $9275      +28%

69-72 Ford    Apr.96        $2100     $3450   $5350   
Bronco        Apr.98        $2350     $3900   $6425      +20%

69-73 Jeep CJ Apr.96        $1625     $2700   $4175
				 $1850     $3100   $4775       +14% 
  
Hopefully the chart won't be butchered by the major!
By the way, "excellent" means nearly new condition, either professionally
restored or an exceptionally well cared-for original.  "Good" means the car
shows very little wear and has been driven sparingly. (not mine :-)) "Fair"
means it's in presentable condition and can be driven on a daily basis.
(presentable to exactly whom was not discussed).  YMMV.
  erik 
Erik van Dyck
1973 Series III
Suwanee, Georgia 

------------------------------

From: Paul Wakefield - Serco <Paul.Wakefield@esrin.esa.it>
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 17:47:41 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Disco trade for Series III

Karen Sindir wrote:

: I was invited to a couple of the local dealers to display my Series III 88
: It was well received when it got there and one fellow wanted to trade his
: brand new Disco for it (fat chance).

Good grief, I would have grabbed his hand (and arm) off for an offer like that.
I love my truck, but for a deal like that I can always find another !

Please tell me this was a joke, Series LR's cannot be _this_ rare and valuable 
in the USA !!

Paul"If my truck sees this, I was only kidding"W

------------------------------

From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 09:49:52 -0600
Subject: Re: Prices - older SUVs in US

At 11:15 AM 07/05/98 -0500, Erik van Dyck, wrote
 "Fair"
>means it's in presentable condition and can be driven on a daily basis.

If I blur my eyes on a dark day mine might qualify for "fair" but in the
last few weeks I've noticed something a little odd among the younger SUV set.

I was out with the dogs a few days ago and got back to Vorizo to find a
small clutch of teenagers peering in under and over.  After I was assured
that they weren't going to chop it up and ship it to Bulgaria or somewhere I
learned that Series Land Rovers are deriguer among the pre-J**p set.  I got
comments such as "Whoa, way super cool, dude"  and "That's one serious off
roader dude, waay cool."

At a gas station the lineboy says, "Wow what a real truck.  It's all metal!"
That last bit has me a bit baffled but the point seems to be that even a
shoddy looking rattler like Vorizo seems to have shot up on the Cool Rating
Scale.

It's kinda neat to be driving a socially acceptable "all metal" cool machine.

                                                                Later dudes

                                                         Rick Grant

Cobra Media Communications, Calgary Canada
Aboriginal and International Relief Issues
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
rgrant@cadvision.com

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 11:51:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Prices - older SUVs in US

Re: Cool machines:

My darling daughter has threatened me with death if I even think about not
helping her rebuild her 88.... or if I sell my 109.

Works for me.....8*)

          aj"Crumple zone? Oh, the Toyota.... 8*)"r

------------------------------

From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Date: 	Wed, 06 May 1998 18:44:17 +0200
Subject: TW-swivel ball seal

Hi TeriAnn,

Some time ago you tipped me that I could cut through the swivelball seal
and mount it without taking off the halfshaft. What did you do with the
spring that is running around the seal? Just discard it?

Peter

Peter Thoren
Work:  Department of Genetics
       Uppsala University
       Box 7003; S-750 07 Uppsala
       Phone: +46 18 67 12 69
       Fax:   +46 18 67 27 05
       e-mail peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se

Home:  Långmyrtorp
       740 20 Vänge
       Phone/fax: +46 18 39 20 56
       e-mail: same as above

------------------------------

From: Winn Bearden <wbearden@americus.net>
Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 14:58:34 -0400
Subject: Re: LT-95 lubrication

Thanks for the responses!
That's kinda what I figured, the way that the oil flowed so quickly  from the 
o/d
to the x/case I thought that  a blown seal wouln't have let  let it flow so
fast.  I do have Castrol 20W-50 in both the gearbox and the t- case.

> And I'll reply : On the LT-95 gearbox, the transfer case portion and the
> overdrive were indeed designed to share their oil supply. The correct way to
> fill them is just as you described... remove the xfer case level plug... feed
> oil into the o'drive until it flows out.
> Also, please remember that the LT-95 gearbox does NOT use 90wt... stick with
> standard engine oil, I use Castrol 20w50.
> Cheers,  Eric.

--
Winn Bearden
P.O. Box 464
Americus, GA 31709
912-924-6513 (H)
912-928-4984 (CELL)

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 06 May 98 12:10:33 MST
Subject: Name for my RR

From:  David Brown - Graphics Specialist ~SRP~ E-mail: debrown@srp.gov
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
                                    Pers. E-mail: rovernut@hotmail.com
As many have said, give it time, and a name for your LR will evolve. Well,
sadly, one has evolved... "Money Pit" seems appropriate, with new 4.6
engine, and now transmission failure, and A/C compressor failure, and, due
to engine replacement, computer replacement. Not counting initial cost, I'm
sinking another $7000 or so into it! I don't know if the name will stick,
and I hope it doesn't, but for now... I'm feeling somewhat disenchanted
right about now, and could use some cheering up! :-/

Dave & Money Pit.

P.S. I'm accepting donations to the "Dave Brown's insane determination to
make this thing usable" find. Send checks to:

   Dave Brown
   268 E. Jasper Ct.
   Gilbert AZ 85296

Or at least a photo of yours, in lieu of money! Say! I'd even take a "50th
anniversary prize winning" that you may have won!

 Never give up your life for          #=======#         _____l___
 anything that death can take         |__|__|__\___    //__|__|__\___
 away.            -annonymous  __\ _  | _|  |   |_ |}  \__ - ____ - _|}
                               O---O  "(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)

------------------------------

From: "Jos de Vries" <vriesde7@dutccis.ct.tudelft.nl>
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 22:28:33 +0000
Subject: Re: surplus dutch army

The number to call at soesterberg (netherlands):
033-4612812. tape/person
I have never seen a LR younger than 1979  there (been there 5 times)
or the little stations of Domeinen:
The other tel.nr.
Rijen : 0161-227441 only seen 5 LR there
Hoogeveen :0518-279206, never been there
Bleiswijk : 010-5212799,  never been there
Amsterdam : 020-6658553,  never been there

My experience: 
109 softtop, 109 ambulance and LW price 4000 - 6000 gilders 
depending on the cat itself and the number of people visitting
I did miss a bid on an 110,'87, 70.000 km, LPG 
by 100 gilders, it went for fl. 4343,- 
only small trucks (DAF, 4t) are cheap: fl. 2300,-

Good luck

Jos de Vries
109 D '71 Santana SW

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Wed, 6 May 98 13:57:08 -0700
Subject: Re: TW-swivel ball seal

;>Hi TeriAnn,
;
>Some time ago you tipped me that I could cut through the swivelball seal
>and mount it without taking off the halfshaft. What did you do with the
>spring that is running around the seal? Just discard it?
;

You remove the spring before cutting the seal unconnect the ends then 
reconnect them around the ball joint. 

 The spring is really a length of straight spring material with one end 
threaded inside the other.  You can turn one end holding the other steady 
and actually unscrew it.  You then place it around the small end of the 
balljoint and screw the ends back together.

Take care,

TeriAnn Wakeman              I subscribe to several high volume mail
Santa Cruz, California       Lists and do not read every posting. 
twakeman@cruzers.com         If you send me direct mail, please start
www.cruzers.com/~twakeman    subject with TW-  so I will know to read it.

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

From: Solihull <Solihull@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 18:40:31 EDT
Subject: Re:  IIA tailgate and hoopset (109)

Trust me on this, Bill. Canvas top will be hotter under the GA sun, better to
just leave the top off and get a roll bar.
Cheers!!
John Dillingham
near Canton, GA
KF4NAS
LROA #1095
SoLaRoS #23
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1

------------------------------

From: Rolston <kuvasz@snet.net>
Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 18:47:54 -0400
Subject: 1969 88" station wagon

We were offered a 1969 LR today, and 88 staion wagon, only 35,000 original
miles but the frame and bulkhead are bad. Comes with a spare engine too.
What would be a fair price?  He wants $1500 for it.  thanks, Jim  

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 15:56:48 -0700 
Subject: Wooden Tail Gates

Has anybody ever tried to make a tailgate out of wood?

I have a station wagon style door on my 88 but I would like to have a
tailgate for the summer when the roof comes off.  I have been unable, as
yet,  to find a real tailgate in good shape for a realistic price and
thought that it would be easy to make a decent looking one out of some
good plywood and a few bits of trim for about 20 bucks.

Any thoughts?

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/
Victoria, BC  Canada

------------------------------

From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 15:30:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Wooden Tail Gates

I made mine like that Paul. I then covered the "tailgate" in Sunbrella and
made a Sunbrella box cover. It looked clean and worked well enough. I made
the tailgate 'drop in' - I also ran a Jeep seat in the back at the time.
Covering the plywood made it look good and match the box cover, bimini and
tire cover I had at the time. Good luck.

I now have a newly painted tailgate and I sew well enough to do the
upholstery and bimini. The tailgate has gone bye-bye - it was just a bit to
rustic for my tastes.

You coming to the Vancouver show on the 16th?

David

------------------------------

From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 20:23:47 -0300
Subject: Re: Electrics

> >distributor when converting from negative earth to positive earth
> Yep - nothing.  Nothing is polarity conscious.
> Ron

How about that, a non PC distributor.  I like it.
John and Muddy

------------------------------

From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 15:47:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Name for my RR

You should buy a boat!!!!!!!!!
It will make you think that ANY Land Rover is cheap.........
14,000 for my engine alone.......................then I have 12 sails.

Cheers
David
Full-time father of a 3.4 year old
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
S/V KALAKALA, Ingrid 38, ketch - our home

------------------------------

From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 19:27:29 -0400
Subject: Jeep seals fit LR?? (was TW-swivel ball seal)

Has anyone ever checked to see if old Jeep CJ swivel ball seals are
interchangable with LR seals? My recollection is that you can buy swivel
ball seals for a CJ which are pre-split. Interchangeability is not
completely far-fetched considering Rover used Jeeps when designing the
first LR.

Regards,
David Cockey

Peter Thoren wrote:

> Some time ago you tipped me that I could cut through the swivelball
> seal
> and mount it without taking off the halfshaft. What did you do with
> the
> spring that is running around the seal? Just discard it?

------------------------------

From: Matthew Wilson <bogatyr@pipeline.com>
Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 19:45:05 -0400
Subject: Re: 1969 88" station wagon

Jim,
1500 sounds about right, especially with a spare engine.  I got my 1970 IIA
for 1500 last year, similar condition, but with 40k on the drivetrain for
the same price.  I have the original toolkit, manifest and manuals, all of
which were sitting in the cubby in the seat box - pretty cool...
Matthew

At 06:47 PM 06-05-98 -0400, you wrote:
>We were offered a 1969 LR today, and 88 staion wagon, only 35,000 original
>miles but the frame and bulkhead are bad. Comes with a spare engine too.
>What would be a fair price?  He wants $1500 for it.  thanks, Jim  

Everything needed something.
Some things needed everything.
Nothing needed nothing.
		-Peter Egan

------------------------------

From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 18:26:45 -0600
Subject: Re: Name for my RR

At 03:47 PM 06/05/98 -0700, David and Cynthia Walker, wrote
>You should buy a boat!!!!!!!!!
>It will make you think that ANY Land Rover is cheap.........

Oh Yeah?  Try an airplane.  You'd think the parts prices were set by the
deBeers diamond cartel.  Everytime you start the engine it's like setting
fire to a small hill of dollar bills.  

 

			Rick Grant

			1959, SII   "VORIZO"  

rgrant@cadvision.com	
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
Cobra Media Communications.  Calgary, Canada
Aboriginal and International Relief Issues

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 21:25:38 -0400
Subject: 101' prices

$30k for a 101!!  Wow,

 101's can be purchased in the UK for between $5000 and $10,000 , LRW and
LROI are full of ads for them. shipping in a container  will cost a few
thousand, I was quoted $4k for a 20 foot from the UK to my door in NY.  Nice
business if you can get it !!
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 21:51:18 -0700
Subject: 2.25  Petrol Woes :-(

Well, it's come to this, gotta ask the list for help.
The facts: 1964 petrol, recon head w/hardened seats
           Zenith rebuilt carb, good exhaust and intake manifold
           new cap,good coil, new rotor button, points and cond and plugs
The problem: It will not run very good
       On start up, it will fire on the very first turn but only running 
a few cylinders. Isolated the non-firing cyls as #1 and 2. Short #3 or 4 
and it drops rpm, but no change when shorting out 1 or 2. No difference 
in rpm even when we took off the leads to both 1&2 at the same time. So, 
we hooked them up again, brought up the revs to about 2000 and pulled the 
leads off 3 , then 4. It ran, but not good. Drop in revs killed the 
engine. Checked for fire in all leads, good. Changed plugs, cap, 
switched wires, no difference. Compression test and all's well, about 150 
in each cyl. Vacuum leak, only a tiny bit around throttle shaft, made a 
difference of about 100 rpm's with propane. After all tests were done, we 
still ended up with an engine that only wants to run on 3 and 4.
  Pleeeeezzze, any ideas???

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 22:30:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: 1969 88" station wagon

Jim,
	1500 bucks isn't so bad with a spare engine - tell us more though.
What's wrong other than the frame and bulkhead? If it runs and drives - you
can try out the tranny and the 4wd & differentials - listen for expensive
noises (though I should warn you - daily drivers may seem expensively
noisey!) What are the swivel balls like? They are expensive and a big
project. Do the brakes and clutch work? This is another big project. What
are the wheel bearings like - can you wiggle the wheels in any directions?
Is there oil on the outside of the rims? Does it run - is it registered?
What about springs/shocks and tires (that could easily add up to over 1000
dollars.)
	It is nice to have original low miles on it - can the owner prove
it hasn't gone around once? It is not necessarily good though. If it has
sat for a long time a lot of oil seals will have dried out - not to mention
the brake seals.
	I love rovers - I bought a "daily driver" after looking and saving
for a year or so. I thought I knew what I was doing (like always right : )
?!) but had to work over a lot of it's systems - most in fact . It may have
been a dd at one point, but certainly not when I got it. Not to discourage
you though. They are quite fun - and if you are not carefull - YOU WILL BE
ASSIMILIATED INTO ROVERDOM! (Hell - you probably already have the bug!)
	I guess my general advice would be to look at a lot of options -
your current deal may not really be a deal anyway. A new frame and rebuilt
bulkhead (from ECR) probably will run you about 3k. Now, look around and
find out what you can get for 4.5k - answer: some already nice rovers. It
may be easier for you to spent 4k on a rover with a solid frame and
bulkhead, and play with things like brakes, radiator/WP, carb, exaust
suspension and body work. There are a number of web sites with rovers for
sale - check DAP Inc., Rovers North, LR Exchange - and ask around here.
	If I had to do it over again - I would have read about it more, and
been more patient. (And I've decided I would prefer a LWB 3door HT.
(Anybody want to trade for a SWB HT?! :  )        ))

Good luck - think carefully about other options - and have fun! Let us know
what you decide! - Peter

>We were offered a 1969 LR today, and 88 staion wagon, only 35,000 original
>miles but the frame and bulkhead are bad. Comes with a spare engine too.
>What would be a fair price?  He wants $1500 for it.  thanks, Jim

-----------------------
Peter M. Kaskan
Uris Hall 231
Dept. Of Psychology
Cornell University
607-255-3382
pmk11@cornell.edu
-----------------------

------------------------------

From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 22:30:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: 2.25  Petrol Woes :-(

Con:

	Is this a new problem on your daily driver. There was quite the
anomaly in mine - which I found out the hard way: some idiot put
something (cam gear?) in my timing system 180 deg. out of phase - and
now my #1 is #3 etc.... When I hooked it all up like it says, it was
backfiring out the carb - didn't sound like yours though (?).

	Have you checked to see if there is any play in the distributor shaft?
 Do the 3 and 4 wires spark better than 1 and 2? WRT you new components
- maybe defective? (I once spent a <italic>whole day </italic> trying
to get my rover started - turned out there was a tiny tiny crack in the
cap - gawd damn thing :  |   Sounds weird - maybe something too obvoius
to notice in your frustration (It has happened to me many a time!) Just
throwing out ideas - I guess I'll leave it to the experts. Good luck  -
Tell us what it is when you find out - I'm curious. Peter

-----------------------

Peter M. Kaskan

Uris Hall 231

Dept. Of Psychology

Cornell University

607-255-3382

pmk11@cornell.edu

-----------------------

------------------------------

From: Curtis Cayer <sherpashan@home.com>
Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 00:20:53 -0600
Subject: Re: Fw: 1961 frame off restoration 109 2 door soft/hard top FOR SALE

1961 Land Rover 109 2 dr Just completed ground up restoration.  Looks
and runs excellent.  Painted in RAF Blue, with new Khaki 5 window canvas
top and new genuine hoop set. 
Also has the following:
New Galvanized frame and bulkhead
5 New BFG Trac Edge tires 
Complete rebuild of engine, and gearbox
New deluxe vinyl seats, locking console, doorliners, rear jumps, mats,
gauges, insulated tunnel cover, genuine seat belts,
New Anti burst locks 
New steering, new leather gaiters, tie rod ends, seals
New brake system, master cyl. and wheel cyls and lines
New Clutch , master cyl., and slave
All new lights and reverse
New electrical H.D. batter, rebuilt starter, coil, alt. ignition
New steering wheel
Rebuilt/re cored Kodiak Artic heater
Rebuilt H.D. radiator
5 Limestone powdercoated 16' rims
Genuine Fume curtain
Rebuilt Weber Carb
All new Suspension: Woodhead shocks, British springs, new bushings,
check straps, axle bumpers, breathers, 
All new genuine weather-stripping, seals, moldings
All new glass all around
New sills, new fenders, doors, rear box panels
New bumpers, grab handles
New light protectors, new mirrors, new hinges
New Electric fan
New Wipac Halogen lights
New nudge bar or bumperettes
All regalv. cappings
Warn FWHs
New Genuine rear step
New wipers, knobs, manifold, waterpump
New complete exhaust system
New genuine mudflaps, and front mud shields
Also have hardtop and/or pickup roof, overdrive, Safety devices rollbar,
and or any other needed options
I can arrange delivery anywhere in the U.S. or Canada
Serious complete restoration with many more items than listed
Asking $21,000 U.S. for immediate sale

Call or email 
Curtis Cayer
Calgary, Alberta
(403) 229-0457
Sherpashan@home.com

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 06:19:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Wooden Tail Gates

You wouldn't be the first by any stretch of the imagination.

Teak - yes, teak, with brass trim. Or perhaps marine mahogany...

8*) 8*)

Seriously, though, there's no reason you can't do this. I'd recommend a
strong outer frame with a center batten of oak or the like, backed with at
least 3/8" waterproof ply, with some sort of rain capping to keep the water
out of the laminations.

               ajr

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 06:25:50 -0400
Subject: Re: 2.25 Petrol Woes :-(

Hmmmm...

DO the compression trest on 1 & 2 with all the plugs out - sounds like you
might have a leak between the two.

Else - real dumb question - you sure the wires are on right, and that you
don't have 1 & 2 reversed or something?

Thirdly, are you sure the valve timing is correct? Might be worth a
crank-over by hand with the valve cover off to make sure everything's going
around/adjusted properly.

Lastly, is gas getting to those cylinders? Obstruction in the manifold that
doesn't show at cranking RPM, maybe?

                                   ajr

------------------------------

From: Craig Morgan <C.Morgan@soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 11:46:01 +0100
Subject: Towing points and hi-lift adapters ...

OK,
	Having started to get real adventurous (ie. it's costing me more to 
repair
bits each time!), I really want to sort out (VERY) good recovery points and
preferably lifting points on my RR. I'm loath to switch yet to a full
ARB/BRB type bumper or full bar at front or rear, as the car is still
mostly a road machine (gradually upgrading...)

	So, does anyone have good/bad experiences of any of the following to 
pass on;

		1) I have a stock LR RR HD tow hitch, currently it only has a 
ball hitch,
I want to switch
		to a ball/pin arrangement. Dixon Bate is the obvious name here, 
but there
are a few 
		other systems at lower cost (Dingocroft have an alternative at 
about half
the cost
		for instance). Is the most expensive the best?

		2) Are there other alternative arrangements for the rear, 
attaching to
the same
		chassis mounting pins which would give me more departure angle. 
I've
ploughed numerous
		furrows with the current tow bar. I appreciate that I'd lose 
the very
substantial
		rear guard, and I'm willing to go with a bridle or something ...

		3) At the front I want substantial balanced recovery points, so 
a bridle
is a must I
		suppose. The only real alternative I've found is a set of 
hi-lift
adapters for RR's by
		David Bowyer which also have holes for D rings, which are 
attached to the
front
		dumb-irons.

		4) I want to be able to hi-lift the vehicle, and bar new 
bumpers all
round, option 3
		at the front takes care of the front, but the rear would need a 
tow hitch
adapter, is
		this any good?

		5) Suggestions for side bars would be greatly appreciated ...

	I appreciate the above is a long list, but after this weekend, I'm 
getting
myself into more
and more difficult holes. Having watched (and recovered...) a number of
vehicles WITHOUT
substantial tow points, I don't want to put myself in this position for
much longer.

PS. We witnessed a ridiculous recovery over the weekend, Lada Niva drives
into a hole
with step in front and behind. Recovery rope is attached to D ring on
homemade angle iron
bumper, rope is spliced to next length, then attached to good line to
tow-hitch of D90.
Note that all of these ropes are dead ropes ... twonk in D90 attempts
snatch recovery!
Breaks rope twice, first at splice, second in rope. Offer a good 12 ton
dead recovery
rope if he attempts a steady pull, ignored. Someone, laughing, offers a
steel "rope" of
indeterminate origin ... once attached to the bumper (by only one D ring on
right) and the 
tow hitch respectively, twonk in D90 attempts another SNATCH recovery.
Bumper is removed
at about 40mph along with substantial part of the Lada underpinnings ...
surprisingly
the D90 seems OK ... just lucky that the steel line was about 80ft long,
some people have
no brains but are still blessed!

Craig 

------------------------------

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