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From: DOC2BE99 <DOC2BE99@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 07:29:49 EDT
Subject: Hare for a tortise

Hi folks,

  I have a 1970 olds 442 that I would like sell or trade for a series rover.
She is a beautiful car and was restored in 91-92.  I would like to get a swb
preferably a light weight but I will consider and reply to all offers.  Click
on the hot link if you would like to see the car.  It may take a few minutes
to load up but it's worth it and yep that audio is from the car.
 <A HREF="http://www.angelfire.com/ga/cruisersnbruisers/">cruisers 'n
bruisers.....</A> 

Thanks,
Charles Studley
doc2be99@aol.com

------------------------------

From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Date: Tue, 05 May 1998 00:34:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Set up engine

Matt,
 I have repeatedly unstuck engine which have been sitting as long as 12
years by using a product called "KROIL" which is mail odered only.  I
use an air line on one of the spark plug holes(adaptor from an old spark
plug.) after closing the valves by unadjusting the valves ( pressure as
much as I could get safely on the piston at the top.  Of course all of
the spark plugs are out.  I use the hand crank to turn the engine after
sitting with KROIL in it for as llong as a week.
 The company that sells Kroil is Kano Labs(615-833-4101). Their products
are the best I have used to "reverse" rust.

HOPE this helps you.     

Regards,
  Rob Davis_chicago

------------------------------

From: "Robert A. Virzi" <rvirzi@gte.com>
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 08:37:04 -0400
Subject: FC for sale in NE

Sorry if a report of this already appeared on the LRO list, but a quick
glance at the headlines didn't suggest it had.

At the LRMW 50th party last week in Natick, MA, I met two guys, Chris and
Shawn Spaulding, with an outstanding FC101.  They are from NH and they are
apparently starting a LR importing business.  You can contact me if you
want the number, but I have no affilliation with them and can't vouch for
them.

The truck was fantastic!  RH drive, excellent body and chassis, PTO winch
and artic heater and insulation.  I'm not sure how much work they did to
get it in this condition or if it was brought over as is.  Hopefully they
will be showing up with it at some local rallys (e.g., ANARC 50th).  It was
a soft-top without benches.  I think they were asking about $30k for it,
placing it in the d90 price range but with a hell of a lot more
unique-appeal, if you go for that sort of thing.

Keep an eye out for it.  The brothers mentioned a few more trucks they had
on the way.		-Bob Virzi

GTE Labs, MS-38            rvirzi@gte.com         voice: +1.781.466.2881
40 Sylvan Rd                                        fax: +1.781.466.4035
Waltham, MA, USA  02254

------------------------------

From: trowe@cdr.wisc.edu
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 07:59:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Winch Danger

snip
>The way to stop this from being done to your 4WD is to isolate the power
>supply to your winch.  First check what amps your winch draws and then
>go to see an auto electrician or 4WD repair shop to see what isolators
>are available.

Sounds like urban folklore to me, although it would cause damage. I doubt
it would "destroy" your rig though. BUT, a cutoff switch is a basic safety
item for an electric winch. The solenoids have been known to stick. When
you're winching, you definitely want to be able to stop the spooling in at
a moment of *your* choosing.
Cheers.

------------------------------

From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 09:14:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Winch Danger

>Sounds like urban folklore to me, although it would cause damage. I doubt
>it would "destroy" your rig though.

I don't know. If done a lot of junk yard engine and gearbox removals with
my 10,000 winch, and you wouldn't believe what you can do to a car/ truck
with a winch cable if you want to. I've folded/ ripped and wrecked many a
"donor" that I wanted the bits out of. It can do serious damage.
Hope none of the little US punks pick up on that trick.;-)

See ya!

From: EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 09:33:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Winch Danger

Gives new meaning to "my wench wrecked my car..."

My winch was installed by LR, and it has a primary solenoid near the battery
that is engaged (turned on) when the winch control is plugged in to the
solenoid pack (up front). That pack has a pair of small wires running back to
this primary solenoid, and there is the ability to put a switch there so that
the winch can only be operated when you want. 

Dave Hampson has a receiver hitch winch, front & rear, and he has a battery
selector switch off a boat that gives him control of where he sends power,
front, rear or both; and off. I guess he just takes it off when he parks, too.

--pat.

------------------------------

From: Marijn van der Himst <marijn@multiweb.net>
Date: Tue, 05 May 1998 15:33:40 +0200
Subject: Re: surplus dutch army

>From: "Zijp, F.J.A. van" <f.j.a.vanzijp@kpn-telecom.nl>
>Hi,
>The Dutch Army is going to sell another batch of surplus landrovers
>somewhere in the near future.
>Anyone on the list pondering on buying one of these?
>There'll probably be a lot of lightweights and s3's and perhaps 
>some UN defenders, too.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>....does anybody have experience in buying a Landie this way in Holland?
>cheers,FerencJ

  No experience, but this is the way it goes (I've been told):

- You are not allowed to start any vehicle
- Without knowing what the going prices are, you can make a bid for
  one or more individual vehicles. 
- No info whatsoever is given about the state any vehicle is in, and,
  there's no 3 Year Garantuee on laque, rustproofing and such ;o)
- Expect a lot of tradesmen to buy heaps of LR's, to be sold to third-
  world countries for warfare purposes, as our government, in all its
  wisdom, has decided *not* to do this anymore, pleaving plenty of
  room for $$$-guys to make a bloody profit this way...
- Almost forgot: if you come home with a nice Landie, expect it to be
  treated as a *import*-vehicle when no licence plates have been issued
  on it before. This means paying additional taxes...(BPM and such), and
  extra effort with MOT (APK/RDW for us). Be careful !

 cheers, Marijn

 '74 109-SIII FFR ex UK-MoD                        marijn@multiweb.net
  ..almost on the road...

------------------------------

From: Karl Kurz <kkurz@acad.umm.maine.edu>
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 09:41:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: subscribe

subscribe lro-digest

------------------------------

From: David Russell <David_R@mindspring.com>
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 10:23:38 -0400
Subject: SWB stuff for sale

Blanket apology for:commercial content, repeat posts, etc.

1 x SWB SIII Body tub, Marine Blue, fair condition, damage to one corner.
$150.00

1 x SWB SIII SW Roof w/Sides and sliding windoze. Not a tropical roof.
Headliner. $275.00.

Both located 10 miles North of Washington DC.

Looking for: 109 hoopset, coil spring axles, parabolic springs, door tops
in very good condition, ???

Thanks!

David Russell
1997 Discovey SD 5-speed
90% of the pieces needed for a 1969 SIIA "Bugeye" 88" SW Petrol
1965+/- SIIA 109" P/U Diesel, "Loo" (Thanks DaveB)
1977 Toyota FJ40 Land Cruiser (sort of)
http://www.mindspring.com/~david_r

------------------------------

From: jkramer <jkramer@best.ms.philips.com>
Date: Tue, 05 May 1998 16:48:03 +0200
Subject: Re: surplus dutch army

Yes, I agree. I had bid ones. And I did not get one, because the prices were
very high. (you can get a list of all the cars and prices that are sold) The
normal market is much cheaper!

Cheers, Joost

Marijn van der Himst wrote:

> >From: "Zijp, F.J.A. van" <f.j.a.vanzijp@kpn-telecom.nl>
> >Hi,
>          [ truncated by lro-lite (was 10 lines)]
> >....does anybody have experience in buying a Landie this way in Holland?
> >cheers,FerencJ
>   No experience, but this is the way it goes (I've been told):
> - You are not allowed to start any vehicle
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 27 lines)]
>  '74 109-SIII FFR ex UK-MoD                        marijn@multiweb.net
>   ..almost on the road...

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 05 May 98 09:35:03 MST
Subject: Clutch allignment tool.

From:  David Brown - Graphics Specialist ~SRP~ E-mail: debrown@srp.gov
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
                                    Pers. E-mail: rovernut@hotmail.com
I have a Chevy 10 spline clutch alignment tool that works perfectly on a
series LR. Costs only a couple $.

As for separating the trans from the bellhousing, make certain that all the
bolts are removed, and maybe try a prybar between the two parts, but BE
CAREFUL!!! You don't want to crack the aluminum casing on either half! Oh!
Are you trying to remove it at the bellhousing (large area right where the
frame crossmember is) or further back? Are you sure you're not trying to
separate part of the gearbox??? Just a thought, not being able to see
exactly what you're doing.

Good luck, Dave...

 Never give up your life for          #=======#         _____l___
 anything that death can take         |__|__|__\___    //__|__|__\___
 away.            -annonymous  __\ _  | _|  |   |_ |}  \__ - ____ - _|}
                               O---O  "(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Tue, 5 May 98 12:14:00 -0700
Subject: Re: Disco fording depth

;>Hi everyone, in about 2 weeks, I'm going to take my Disco for its first
;>off-road adventure, should I get skid plates first?  Also, does anyone
;>know of a safe fording depth, because I bought it used and it doesn't
;>have a booklet, thanks!
;>
;>Mohammed Taheri
;>'95 Discovery

I'm assuming you have a FI petrol engine.  I sugest that you go no deeper 
than hub depth.  Your FI electronics do not want to get wet.  There is 
some sort of crank rev sensor part way up the side of the engine.  It 
seems to break if you get cold water on it.

This looks like a part that should go in the spares box for FI V8 owners. 
 Watching FI V8 cars stall wading the river in Canyon de Chelly in flood 
stage, I would say that they should be considered hydrophobic.  On the 
other hand I would consider the deisel Rovers to be water puppies.  They 
were in their element there.

TeriAnn Wakeman              I subscribe to several high volume mail
Santa Cruz, California       Lists and do not read every posting. 
twakeman@cruzers.com         If you send me direct mail, please start
www.cruzers.com/~twakeman    subject with TW-  so I will know to read it.

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Tue, 5 May 98 12:14:01 -0700
Subject: Re:  Disco fording depth

;>Hi everyone, in about 2 weeks, I'm going to take my Disco for its first
;>off-road adventure, should I get skid plates first?

>From what I have seen on the recently completed border to border run, the 
tie rods seem to be real vulnerable on a Discovery.  A lot of Discos 
seemed to have problems with those. I heard someone say that there seems 
to be a conversion to move the tie rods higher in a Disco by using some 
Defender parts.  I don't have any idea how this is accomplished.

A few Discos seemed to have dented their front diff housing, so a diff 
protector might be in order.

If you want some quality feedback, I suggest that you ask the coiler mail 
list.  It has the real Discovery experts.  This list is primarily for the 
leaf spring cars so there may or may not be anyone here with real 
Discovery expereteese.

Good luck in your endevours

TeriAnn Wakeman              I subscribe to several high volume mail
Santa Cruz, California       Lists and do not read every posting. 
twakeman@cruzers.com         If you send me direct mail, please start
www.cruzers.com/~twakeman    subject with TW-  so I will know to read it.

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 15:19:39 EDT
Subject: Fwd: U.S. Team Chosen for Camel Trophy Tierra Del Fuego '98

Of interest:

--part0_894395981_boundary
Content-ID: <0_894395981@inet_out.mail.aol.com.2>
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

U.S. Team Chosen for Camel Trophy Tierra Del Fuego '98

Americans Place First and Third Out of 80 Candidates;  

Spain Selects First-Ever Female Team

 FAVIKENS EGENDOM, Sweden, May 5 /PRNewswire/ -- When Camel Trophy Tierra del
Fuego '98 heads to South America in August for its first-ever winter
competition, Dean Vergillo, 29, a stay-at-home dad and freelance bicycle
designer from Duvall, Wash., and Greg Thomas, 33, a multimedia designer from
Santa Cruz, Calif., will be there to represent the United States.  The two
were chosen following an arduous week of events at the 1998 Camel Trophy
International Selections, where four finalists from each of 20 countries
competed to be named to their two-person national teams.  Out of the 80
candidates, Vergillo placed first, and Thomas trailed him closely in third
place, with a difference of only 10 points separating them.

Of the 40 team members who will participate in Camel Trophy '98, six will be
women.  Included in these six are Emma Boca and Patricia Molina of Spain, who
will make history as the first-ever all-female Camel Trophy team.

Often described as the world's last great adventure, Camel Trophy is a multi-
disciplined expedition challenge in which participants combine physical
endurance with strategic planning and four-wheel drive skills in order to
navigate across some of the most remote terrain on earth.  En route from start
to finish, teams acquire points by visiting as many pre-determined "Discovery"
and "Adventure" Locations as possible, each of which has been assigned a
specific score based on the difficulty involved in getting there.  Discovery
Locations can be reached by vehicle, but Adventure Locations require further
exploration via a combination of Mountain Biking, Kayaking or Andean Sports
(skiing, snowboarding or snowshoeing).  The teams are responsible for devising
their own unique strategies in order to access the locations.

The 1998 International Selections were the final opportunity for Camel Trophy
hopefuls from around the world to prove that they have what it takes to be a
Camel Trophy team member.  In preparation for the snowy and icy environment of
Chile and Argentina, the cold spring of northern Sweden provided a wintry
backdrop for five days of activities.  For the first two days, participants
rotated through a series of exercises designed to familiarize them with the
equipment to be used on the event, including the all-new Land Rover
Freelander, which will be driven on Camel Trophy for the first time in 1998.
Training was also provided in practical skills that will be crucial for all
teams: navigation, first aid, communications, Arctic survival and mechanics.

During the final three days, the candidates were evaluated in a number of
competitions, including ice driving on the frozen surface of Lake Djupsjon,
uphill and downhill treks on the ski slopes of Trillevallen, Grade 3 rapids
below the thundering waterfalls of Ristafallet and muddy mountain biking
around the wooded acres of Favikens Egendom.

The highlight of the week was an unusual night-driving slalom competition on
the ice that tested the candidates' accuracy, precision and skill behind the
wheel; the courses were marked only by candlelight.

"I'm amazed!," said Vergillo, when the teams were announced.  "It hasn't
really sunk in yet that I'll be going to Camel Trophy.  We had a really close
group of four coming into the International Selections, and although only two
of us are moving on, there are parts of all four of us going."

Thomas was already thinking ahead to the training that is still to come,
saying, "I'm going to take some trips up to visit Dean, and hopefully he can
come down to California, too.  I think we have a good chance at winning the
event in South America, but we really need to work together to make that
happen."

Driving a Land Rover Freelander that will proudly display the stars and
stripes of the American flag, Thomas and Vergillo will set off from Santiago,
Chile, on August 5, and arrive three weeks later in Ushuaia, Argentina -- the
southernmost city on earth.

Participating in Camel Trophy Tierra del Fuego '98 are: Argentina, Austria,
the Canary Islands, Denmark/Norway, Finland/Sweden, France, Germany, Greece,
Holland, Italy, Japan, Portugal, Romania, Russia, South Africa, Spain,
Switzerland, Turkey, the U.K. and the U.S.

More information on Camel Trophy Tierra del Fuego '98 can be found on the
World Wide Web at www.Best4x4.LandRover.com.

Camel Trophy is a product of Worldwide Brands Inc., marketer of Camel Trophy
Adventure Wear, and sponsored by Land Rover, manufacturer of premium British-
built sport-utility vehicles.  Team USA is sponsored by Land Rover North
America, Inc., and additional U.S. team support has been provided by Michelin
Tire Co. and Mountain Hardwear Inc.

SOURCE  Land Rover North America, Inc.

CO:  Land Rover North America, Inc.; Worldwide Brands, Inc.

ST:  California, Washington, Maryland

IN:  AUT

SU:

05/05/98 15:11 EDT http://www.prnewswire.com

To edit your profile, go to keyword <A HREF="aol://1722:NewsProfiles">
NewsProfiles</A>.
For all of today's news, go to keyword <A HREF="aol://1722:News">News</A>.

--part0_894395981_boundary--

------------------------------

From: Elwyn York <Elwyny@mailshuttle.com>
Date: Tue, 05 May 1998 20:36:03 +0100
Subject: Handbrake on S3

Hi Folks

A few months ago, before the engine went, i had a little problem with my
handbrake.  Basically the "Ratchet" refused to grip anymore. When i pulled
the bandbreak up the button didnt pop out to lock it up, so it was always
in the off position.

I have tried a bit of WD40 but to no avail.  Can anyone suggest anything?
Being new to Landrovers i am unsure what to do to it or how to proceed.

Cheers
Elwyn York

Landrover S3 Lightweight
Elwyny@mailshuttle.com

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 15:55:26 EDT
Subject: Re: Handbrake on S3

In a message dated 5/5/98 3:48:20 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Elwyny@mailshuttle.com writes:

<< A few months ago, before the engine went, i had a little problem with my
 handbrake.  Basically the "Ratchet" refused to grip anymore. When i pulled
 the bandbreak up the button didnt pop out to lock it up, so it was always
 in the off position.
 
 I have tried a bit of WD40 but to no avail.  Can anyone suggest anything?
 Being new to Landrovers i am unsure what to do to it or how to proceed. >>

If you remove the center seat cushion and the cover on the seatbox, generally
you can get good enough access to the handbrake lever where it fastens to the
chassis.  There are several possibilities for the problem you describe, all
readily repairable, but you will need to find out what spring/pin/rod is
broken/lost/nonfunctional

Have a look at the mechanism.

Nate

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 16:04:19 EDT
Subject: Re:  Handbrake on S3

In a message dated 5/5/98 3:48:20 PM, you wrote:

>A few months ago, before the engine went, i had a little problem with my
>handbrake.  Basically the "Ratchet" refused to grip anymore. When i pulled
>the bandbreak up the button didnt pop out to lock it up, so it was always
>in the off position.

Until you get the solution, may I suggest the "The Gods Must Be Crazy" parking
brake: A suitably large rock. The TGMBC Brake is placed behind or in front of
a wheel, depending on which way you want the vehicle to stop rolling. For
visual clues, rent the movie; watch the "opening of the gate" scene until you
are rolling on the floor from laughter.

It really is handy, when parking on a slight (notice *slight*) uphill, you can
go up about 3 feet farther than where you want to park. Open the door and
deposit the TGMBC Brake and gently roll back down onto it. voila! when you
want to leave, drive off it, reach down and pick it up ;-) When done in front
of relatives, spouses, etc., it can make for some humorous moments or strained
relationships...

--pat.

------------------------------

From: mark.luker@virgin.net (mark.luker@virgin.net)
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 21:16:56 +0100
Subject: Re: Handbrake on S3

Have you checked out this months (issue6) of Landrover Owner. Ross Floyd has
a whole page (page 165) dedicated to sorting out Handbrake problems in
series Rovers.

Help that helps.

Mark

------------------------------

From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Tue, 05 May 1998 10:09:22 -1000
Subject: Re: Handbrake on S3

	Check it in place to see if the linkage is hanging up.  Have someone 
push
button and operate hand brake while you inspect either from the bottom or
looking through inspection hatch.  If button not retracting is causing the
ratchet not to engage you will have to find why it won't pop out.  I had to
disassemble and work it with a lot of wd40 type of oil to get a replacement
that I installed to free up.   
	I had a problem with my other rover with the ratchet pall not engaging.
It had apparently fractured/worn at the end and would not hold in the
ratchet teeth.  Ground it down to change the engagement angle and it worked
for a while.  It failed again after a few years because of mistreatment by
my son.  I replaced the ratchet pall and all has worked fine since.
Replacing is a simple, though messy task, involving a removing a pin
retained by a cotter pin that holds the ratchet pall.  Probably would have
been easier to replace the first time but I needed the car and had to
attempt a fix rather than wait for parts.
Good Luck
Aloha Peter O

At 08:36 PM 5/5/98 +0100, you wrote:
>Hi Folks
>A few months ago, before the engine went, i had a little problem with my
>handbrake.  Basically the "Ratchet" refused to grip anymore. When i pulled
>the bandbreak up the button didnt pop out to lock it up, so it was always
>in the off position.
>I have tried a bit of WD40 but to no avail.  Can anyone suggest anything?

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
>Landrover S3 Lightweight
>Elwyny@mailshuttle.com

------------------------------

From: RWilli4013 <RWilli4013@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 16:24:33 EDT
Subject: Re: White smoke

I have the same snag on mine ('69 88" SIIA); I believe it is worn valves.
Short of a regrind I know of no additives, but please let me know if you have
any ideas.
Thanks
richard

------------------------------

From: RWilli4013 <RWilli4013@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 16:24:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Waterproofing

I use an old UK military NBC rubber overglove. It does the same job as a latex
glove but is a little sturdier.  You can get them from army surplus stores
etc.
regards 
richard

------------------------------

From: Elwyn York <Elwyny@mailshuttle.com>
Date: Tue, 05 May 1998 21:28:15 +0100
Subject: Re:  Handbrake on S3

At 16:04 05/05/98 EDT, you wrote:

>Until you get the solution, may I suggest the "The Gods Must Be Crazy"
parking
>brake: A suitably large rock. The TGMBC Brake is placed behind or in front of
>a wheel, depending on which way you want the vehicle to stop rolling. For
>visual clues, rent the movie; watch the "opening of the gate" scene until you
>are rolling on the floor from laughter.
>It really is handy, when parking on a slight (notice *slight*) uphill, you

can
>go up about 3 feet farther than where you want to park. Open the door and
>deposit the TGMBC Brake and gently roll back down onto it. voila! when you
>want to leave, drive off it, reach down and pick it up ;-) When done in front
>of relatives, spouses, etc., it can make for some humorous moments or
strained
>relationships...

Thanks Pat.

I did notice some slippage before it stopped working. I left it parked on a
hill outside a freinds house, went in for 5 minutes and returning was sure
i hadnt parked it sooo close to that BMW

The problem actually happened after a short 20 mile journey to a freinds.
Parked on his drive (field really) and pulled the handbrake up. I let go,
it dropped. nice eh?

After that i managed to park it on hills facing down resting on a tree or
kerb.  The problem with kerbs is that my 7.50r16 tend to ignore they're there!

Anyway. At the moment it is parked on the flat, with a landrover behind and
a shed in front. This ain't goin' anywhere.

Cheers
Elwyn

------------------------------

From: "Alberto =?UNKNOWN-8BIT?Q?Guimar=E3es"?= <a.guimaraes@mailcity.com>
Date: 	Tue, 05 May 1998 14:30:16 -0700
Subject: LR Parts, help needed!!

I everybody. My name is Alberto Guimarăes, I´m Portuguese and I own
a 1979 regular 88" series III Land Rover. I´m interested in importing
several parts for my Landy.I tried some dealers in UK by email and
by fax but I don´t get any answers. I hope there's someone who has
a reliable contact of a dealer in Europe out there.I'm in a process
of rebuilding my Landy and need window frames for the doors, door
lockers, hard and soft tops, a safary door for the soft top and a
few other parts.Hope you guys can help me.Regards from Portugal
the off-road Paradise!!Alberto Guimarăesa.guimaraes@mailcity.com

Get your FREE, private e-mail
account at http://www.mailcity.com

------------------------------

From: "Alberto =?UNKNOWN-8BIT?Q?Guimar=E3es"?= <a.guimaraes@mailcity.com>
Date: 	Tue, 05 May 1998 14:30:35 -0700
Subject: LR Parts, help needed!!

I everybody. My name is Alberto Guimarăes, I´m Portuguese and I own
a 1979 regular 88" series III Land Rover. I´m interested in importing
several parts for my Landy.I tried some dealers in UK by email and
by fax but I don´t get any answers. I hope there's someone who has
a reliable contact of a dealer in Europe out there.I'm in a process
of rebuilding my Landy and need window frames for the doors, door
lockers, hard and soft tops, a safary door for the soft top and a
few other parts.Hope you guys can help me.Regards from Portugal
the off-road Paradise!!Alberto Guimarăesa.guimaraes@mailcity.com

Get your FREE, private e-mail
account at http://www.mailcity.com

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 17:51:56 EDT
Subject: looking for Jim Pappas of BSROA

Jim, are you still on the list? If yes, e-mail me.

If he isn't and one of the old timers (I haven't seen him up for a while)has
his e-mail, could you fwd it to me?

Thanks,

pat
93  110

------------------------------

From: Sean G Muller <Samwise_Diver@centuryinter.net>
Date: Tue, 05 May 1998 17:06:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Defender 130

Anymore info on the company would be appreciated.
Sean

David and Cynthia Walker wrote:

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From: Sean G Muller <Samwise_Diver@centuryinter.net>
Date: Tue, 05 May 1998 17:08:56 -0500
Subject: Looking for 101

Bob
    I am looking for a used, preferrably barely working or not at all, 101.
Could I get their number.
Sean Muller
Samwise_diver@Centuryinter.net

Robert A. Virzi wrote:

> Sorry if a report of this already appeared on the LRO list, but a quick
> glance at the headlines didn't suggest it had.
> At the LRMW 50th party last week in Natick, MA, I met two guys, Chris and
> Shawn Spaulding, with an outstanding FC101.  They are from NH and they are
> apparently starting a LR importing business.  You can contact me if you
> want the number, but I have no affilliation with them and can't vouch for
> them.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 23 lines)]
> 40 Sylvan Rd                                        fax: +1.781.466.4035
> Waltham, MA, USA  02254

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From: Winn Bearden <wbearden@americus.net>
Date: Tue, 05 May 1998 23:31:29 -0400
Subject: LT95 Overdrive

    Sorry for the cross-post, but since the LT95 was used in leafers and 
coilers,
I figured it's ok.
    Does anyone know if the overdrive runs off of its own oil supply (like
Series), or does it use oil from the transfer case?   I can pull the level plug 
on
the t/case and then add oil to the o/d and see it immediately  come out of the
t/case.  This means either they share oil or the o/d seal is majorly blown out.
If this is the case, where can I find a seal for it?  I'm in a bind because my
hybrid has inadvertently become my daily driver as my F-250D is in the body
shop(don't ask).
    By the way, I remember several people expressing interest in building 
hybrids
out of RR fodder.  After three months of spare time, I finally have a hard top
on!  It took forever to shorten the top and stretch the sides to make it fit 
(that
NADA carcass finally came in handy!)  What I'm saying is try to fit the series
body onto the frame as to keep the top dimensions either 88 or 109 - your rear
overhang can be used for that adjustment.  If I had known how big a pain it was
going to be, I probably woulda just left the claustophobic truck cab on.

--
Winn Bearden
P.O. Box 464
Americus, GA 31709
912-924-6513 (H)
912-928-4984 (CELL)

------------------------------

From: robot1@juno.com
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 22:10:59 -0700
Subject: set-up engines

One thing to remember with the diesel fuel method: leave the plugs out!!!
don't attempt to turn the engine with the cylinders full of diesel and
the plugs in; if you manage to get it to move, the fuel is non-
compressible. Had a friend who got a 2.6 running after being siezed for
10  years; he kept spraying WD-40 in the plug holes and rocking the crank
back and forth. It moved a little more each time he tried, (about once a
week) and took about three months before he got it to turn easily. Once
he did, though, it started right up. Good luck!!!

Mark 
1967 109 regular "sheila"

You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.

------------------------------

From: "Barry & Beth O'Mahony" <bomahon@teleport.com>
Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 01:49:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Winch Danger

At 09:15 PM 5/4/98 +1000, you wrote:
>All, sorry about the multi-post but, if this is true, it has ramifications
>for many of us
>I received the following this morning from a guy in the office (out of
>Horizons Magazine so you may see it anyway).  It could be an urban myth.

I read about these Sydney incidents in Land Rover World as well.

'hate to say it, but after looking at the innards of the Warn controller
while I was installing an M10000 on my D90 this past weekend, this is
definitely feasible.  As they used to say, "any schoolboy" could figure out
how to power-out or power-in with just a paper clip.

I hope our home-grown U.S. juvenile deliquents don't have any penpals in OZ.

I can think up a number of ways to prevent this:

--  The control box could be moved to a more secure location,such as inside
the engine compartment.  One would need to replace the box-to-motor cables
with longer, and possibly heavier, cables.

--  The control box could be re-wired, so that the power for the solenoid
coils inside the box is supplied from a separate wire whose power is
controlled by the ignition, rather than just being tied inside the box to
the cable running directly to the battery.

--  A (very) high-ampere solenoid could be inserted in series with the
battery cable in a secure location, again with its coil powered by an
ignition-switchable power source. I suppose one could order two extra
solenoids of the type that are used in the Warn box, and  wire them in
parallel.

I'm not familiar with the wiring in other brands of winches, but it's quite
probably they could have the same potential danger.

-Barry

------------------------------

From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 02:16:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Defender 130

Call Allan at 250  494-0646.
Tell him I gave you his number (that way he knows who his friends are!)

As I said, 130, with four doors and what looks to be a 110 box - kinda looks
like a Hummer, but skinny!

Cheers
David
Full-time father of a 3.4 year old
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
S/V KALAKALA, Ingrid 38, ketch - our home

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