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From: Karl Kurz <kkurz@acad.umm.maine.edu>
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 07:17:29 -0400 (EDT)

subscribe lro-digest

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 07:41:28 EDT
Subject: Re: New Homepage

ahhhh! success! maybe it was only temporary server miscommunications or
something, but I guess it is letting us in now...

--pat.

------------------------------

From: Erik van Dyck <erikvandyck@mindspring.com>
Date: Tue, 05 May 1998 08:15:08 -0500
Subject: plague/plaque

>I was treated as an honored guest, given a new
>Disco to drive for the day, also a nifty umbrella and a small 1948-1998
>plague.

"there are some that would claim that owning a british vehicle is akin to
getting the plague...  ;-)"

Ok, I meant plaque, not plague.  I guess it was a fruedian slip of my
finger on the keyboard - or a nut loose on the keyboard ;-)

   erik
Erik van Dyck
Suwanee, Georgia
1973 Series  III  88"

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 04 May 98 08:52:39 EST
Subject: Re: Wheel Sizes

>I hate to ask for a repeat of a recent thread, BUT;  What are the serial 
>numbers for the 16" wheels on a Series Rover.

109 232709
88 231601
231601 is the narrow ones
at least this is what my memory ids telling me. mine are the 231601's and 
they are narrow so I bleive him. I also am running 235-85-16's for all you 
non-believers.

later

  I bought two at a scrap yard that came off a 109, assumed they were the 
same.  Lost track of which ones were from the 109.  Recently measured and 
they all appeared the same, but I noticed two different numbers.  So are 
there two different numbers for the same size rims?

Thanks in advance

Mitch and the Red Dinosaur

------------------------------

From: Stephen Brown <sbrown@ner.com>
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 12:14:45 GMT
Subject: 1960 Series II for sale

Hi all,

I live in central Vermont (between WRJ and Montpelier) and have a 1960
Series II (not a IIa) 88 inch wheelbase Landrover with a hard top for
sale. It is a New Mexico truck with no rust anywhere (except the door
tops), in fact you can still read the serial number on the frame. I've
waxoyled it since I moved to New England. It is always in the garage
when not being used. It is driven fairly often. The odometer says
about 90,000 and based on what I know, I believe it to be true. I put
on new leaf springs and new front seats (offical landrover parts). I
put in seat belts for safety's sake in front and back and added a
right fender rear-view mirror. My friend helped me weld up a sturdy
roof rack. I have put in a new Weber carburetor and electric fuel pump
with pressure regulator -- both required after an extreme bout with
bad (dirty) gas from %$%^%^, and have switched it to negative ground
and put in a GM alternator to replace the failed generator. The tires
are pretty good Cooper's, tall and skinny 16 inch radials. It has
locking hubs on the front. I've replaced several oil seals and the
propeller shaft U-joints. I put in a new gas tank and the related
filler hoses, since the old one leaked badly. It has a VW bug
horn. The heater is the little round Smith's shin roaster. Everything
(what little it has) works. I have replaced the series II thermostat
housing and thermostat with the series IIa variety, since the old
thermostats are so hard to come by. Other than the few "necessary"
upgrades, it is pretty original. I have a complete record of its
previous owners and all the work I've done on it plus the owner's and
shop manuals and many parts catalogs. It even holds a bit of history:
there is a bullet wedged in the tailgate from a long-ago domestic
dispute in Albuquerque (I wasn't involved). Oh yea, I have a tow bar
for it (I've never used it though!).

If you have web access, you can see a picture of it (and, as an extra
bonus, me on my 1950 Farmall tractor!) at my friend's web site in
Perth, Australia (I'll explain how the photo got there another time).

http://www.ned.dem.csiro.au/unrestricted/people/CoxSimon/gallery/srbtract.jpg
 
I'm forced to sell it because I've changed jobs and now I must commute
quite far (about 80 miles round trip) each day. There is undoubtedly
more work to be done toward resoration (for example the exhaust system
is in some need of repair), but it is a good runner as is. I bought it
for $5000 about 5 years or so ago in much poorer condition in
Albuquerque, and will reluctantly sell "Bertie" for $4500 today.

Email me if you're interested.

Thanks,

Stephen Brown
Brookfield, Vermont

browns@sover.net

------------------------------

From: "Zijp, F.J.A. van" <f.j.a.vanzijp@kpn-telecom.nl>
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 15:39:00 +0200 
Subject: surplus dutch army LR's

Hi,

The Dutch Army is going to sell another
batch of surplus landrovers somewhere
in the near future.

Anyone on the list pondering on buying
one of these?

There'll probably be a lot of lightweights
and s3's and perhaps some UN
defenders, too.

On another note; does anybody have
experience in buying a Landie this way
in Holland?

cheers

FerencJ

!!    PS if not replying to the list, please use
ferencj@xs4all.nl

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 04 May 98 10:07:14 EST
Subject: Re: New HOMEPAGE

         >>http://home.t-online.de/Oliver_Gottlob

still doesn't work for me. I get the same emssage as everyone else...

later
DaveB

------------------------------

From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 08:28:45 -0500
Subject: RE: New HOMEPAGE

I had no problems getting in.

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------------------------------

From: Neil Sheridan <neilsheridan@nac.net>
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 09:38:54 -0400
Subject: Frameover Update -- "Baptism by Guinness"

Well, the Rover Formerly Known as the Sheridan Valdez is no more. 
With the indispensable help of LT Jeff "Air Ratchet" Jackson, in just 
NINE HOURS:

- The Valdez was completely disassembled almost down to the bare frame,
- We moved the engine and tranny individually over to the mint 
      frame I bought from Mike Smith at ECR (Thanks again, Mike!).  
- Replaced the driven clutch plate,
- Mated up the engine and tranny.

Jeff went through the same process for the first time last year with
truck "Camilla" and I benefited from his two month battle with her.  If I
didn't have to repair the bulkhead, paint the truck, etc. and with a third 
experienced person to set up the hydraulics, we figure we could 
more or less have completed an entire frame-over in one three-day 
weekend.  

BTW, don't attempt this at home without a set of air tools.  When I
started working on the Valdez in '96, all I was armed with was a 
Dremel, hacksaw, chisel and hammer.  It took three months and 
739 beers to remove and rebuild the front axle.

After baptizing the front cross-members of both trucks with that 
famous dark export of  the St. James Gate brewery (to transfer 
the soul of the Valdez to its new home), we called it a night.

I'll be in the garage for most of the next six weekends.   Come on
over for a Guinness by my half-built Rover.  

Cheers,

Neil Sheridan
'65 SIIA "[Insert NAME here]" Parts Collection

------------------------------

From: GeratyBell <GeratyBell@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 11:39:54 EDT
Subject: Re: LRNA Colorado Adventure

Yup,
got an invitation about a month ago. The wife and I have not yet decided
wether or not to attend.

Tom Geraty
88 RR, 69 2002, 82 HD

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 09:07:51 -0700 
Subject: RE: Subject: coils(ignition)

MRogers writes:
	>Now if you run a 12 volt coil on a resisted system the sparks
will always be
	weak. However if you run a reduced voltage coil on a 12 volt
system it will be
	fine on startup but the coil will probably soon burn out and
will certainly
	run hot and cause bad running problems.<

I can attest to this.  I ordered a new coil from a local supplier a few
months ago.  What she sent me was a Bearmach (I think) yellow & blue
coil (you can see it in the big picture at
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/ ) with an internal
resistor.  It seemed to run o.k. on initial start up, but soon I could
tell that something was wrong as the starter motor began to hesitate as
if something was shorting it out.  I assume that the coil LT side had
shorted out as the LT wire in the dizzy between the terminal and the
points burned up and let it's smoke out.  I checked the coil with a DMM
and confirmed that it was shorted, then whipped down to Lordco and
picked up a Ford resistorless coil.  After replacing the burned out wire
with one with the smoke still in it, I hooked up the coil and she fired
right up.  No problems since.

Some people have warned me that the Ford coil might be a little to hot
for my old Landy.  Any other opinions on this?  I've checked the
capacitor (condenser) and it seems o.k. with no obvious point pitting
yet.  Mind you, she's only be idling in my garage. so far.
Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88.
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/
Victoria, BC  Canada

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 18:22:15 +0200
Subject: 2.25 0r 2.6?

Is it worth swapping the 2.25 diesel for a 2.5 (or is it 2.6) diesel on
a SIII 88" ? Has anyone tried this?

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 10:27:58 -0500
Subject: RE: LRNA Colorado Adventure

What is this Colorado Adventure thing?

LMG
88 or 109 still looking

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------------------------------

From: "Searle, Philip A.           AP" <Philip.Searle@abbott.com>
Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 11:33:58 -0500
Subject: LRNA 50th celebration (Lake Forest)

>Then we were told that LRNA had picked our dealer as one of the two
>to give the vintage Rover away , low and behold they picked my name.
Congratulations!
I counted myself lucky for being fourth closest with the guess of how
many stuffed animals were in the back of the Discovery.  Guessed 88
(naturally), turned out to be 83 so we took home a cuddly giraffe.  The
vehicle plaques were nice, as were the stickers and coloring books, and
the plastic cup.  Guess we were on a souvenir hunt.

Any list members/lurkers at the Lake Forest dealer that night that I
didn't meet?  Nice Series 1 and 2A swb's in their showroom.  

Regards

Phil Searle
Grayslake IL
1967 IIA 88" (rebuild in progress)
1963 TR4 ............

------------------------------

From: nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu
Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 12:59:41 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Set up engine

what are the old cures for a set up engine? I have one on a non rover
product and am at wits end... Ive tried Marvel mystery oil, ATF fluid,
Blaster everything thats ever worked before and still its stuck solid, the
engine is not in too bad shape other than the fact that it is set up...

someone suggested putting Coke in the cylinders and I admit I've seen that
work on smaller engines but they belonged to other people,and I'm a bit
apprehensive of dumping coca-cola into my engine...

by the way coke suppoesedly disolves the rust, puta rusty nail in it over
night and see what happens, or put a tooth in it over night and see what
happens...

thankd in advance

Matt

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY <AKBLACKLEY@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 13:02:32 EDT
Subject: New Defender, a rant,+ Kudos to Jim Allen

Got the May 4 AutoWeek today. Two items of interest: 1. A study of the new
Defender by Marek Reichman. 3/4 rear view, AA Yellow, no top or windscreen.
Looks like a combination of a Freelander (generic late 90s mini-SUV) and a
Series Air Portable from the A post back. Mr. Hughes is quoted as saying it is
not the new  Defender, but "reflect(s) all the hallmarks of the Land Rover
brand and, in particular, the icon that is Defender". Note emphasis on brand -
they sell a brand, an image. Tradition, function etc. are secondary to the
Brand Name, which apparently may exist without reference to an actual,
physical reality, such as the Solihull works and the products built there in
the past 50 years. Most people dont care where their favorite brand of smokes,
soft drink, toothpaste, whatever is actually made/decanted. Selling to brand
loyality, instead of on the merits of the product, is dangerous ground, IMHO.
If they start building the product in China or Brazil, is it the same thing,
even if it is the same brand? OK, rants over
2. Also noted that Classic Motors Books eighth best seller is "Illustrated
Classic 4X4 Buyers Guide" by Jim Allen. Way to go, Jim. Cheers, Andy Blackley 

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 13:02:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Set up engine

Diesel fuel.

Fill the pots with Diesel - an ounce or two in each.

Get the other stuff out first, of course....

               ALan

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 13:24:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Set up engine

In a message dated 5/4/98 1:11:06 PM, Alan Richer wrote:

>Diesel fuel.
>Fill the pots with Diesel - an ounce or two in each.
>Get the other stuff out first, of course....

Then add some fertilizer...

Ask a local militia member to ty the handcrank for you...

ps: don't park near any federal buildings.

--pat.

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 04 May 98 13:24:50 EST
Subject: Re: 2.25 0r 2.6?

>Is it worth swapping the 2.25 diesel for a 2.5 (or is it 2.6) diesel on a SIII 
>88" ? Has anyone tried this?

not exactly a straight swap.

1. you need a complete engine w/flywheel and housing and starter, etc.

2. you  need to change the right side engine mount, as the 2.5 has the injector 
pump on the timing cover. and it will foul the 2.25 mount. 

I don't know too much about what the real differences are, but I do know of   
2.5 diesel 110's that can really motor. They have 3.5 diffs and 5-speed      
'boxes thuogh. there's a locla guy with a 60's 109SW w/ 2.5 deisel fitted. He 
claims it is still impossibly slow. This could be due to the standard gearing as
well as engine wear. Don't really know.
Anybody with a 2.5 N/A deisel want to talk it up? or down?

later
DaveB

------------------------------

From: Sean Morrison <seanm@dnai.com>
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 10:31:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: Unrestored Series I engine transplant cont. 

Tony,

  Thanks for your interest. The post I wrote was a bit on the whimsical
side and was written mainly as a release at the end of the day and not as
anything meant to contain a shred of technical information. 

  I found an engine throught the list and amazingly it was in seemingly
good shape in the back of a garage about 40 miles from where I live
(Berkeley). Spares are a problem and I'm either having my own machined or
using Series II bits, or modifying Series II bits to fit the Series I. I'm
trying not to modify the Series I to fir the Series II bits if you know
what I mean.

  Yes, it's the '54 107 Pickup that I mentioned before. Here are some
interesting things that I've encountered that might interest you.

  The engine I bought came out of a Series II. Apparently Land Rover had a
stock of the later 2.0L engines that they put in some of the earlier
Series IIs. Because of this (I'm asuming) the carburator cables and
linkage are non compatible with the Series I setup (at least not without
modification) due to the Series IIs having a different pedal arangement.

  In my case the new engine had a weber instead of the original solex so
all I had to do was take the freshly rebuilt solex off of my old engine
and replace the weber with it. Also the weber has it's fuel supply fed to
it from the front and the original metal flexible hose wouldn't reach as
it was intended to feed fuel to the solex from the side (or the back? I
don't remember) but in either case the hose would have to be lengthened
for it to fit.

  Also, the flywheel housing and starter mount are considerably different.
I didn't notice this until I tried swapping flywheels (also different).
One has three holes for the starter (the older one I think) and the other
has only two (maybe it has three as well as I didn't examine it to
closely, but they are certainly in different positions). That said I think
at least two of the holes match up so starter swaps should be possible.

  The flanges on the frame of my 107 which support the rubber engine
mounts aren't identical to one another. One (the right I believe) has
buttresses of a sort which prevent Series II rubber mounts from fitting as
they should. The Series II mounts are of a slightly larger diameter. This
isn't too much of a problem as they can no doubt be forced to fit but it's
frustrating to discover it at the last minute.

  The dynamo bracket that was originally on the 2.0L engine from the
Series II seems to have been different from that on the Series I 2.0L
engine.

  The oil filter on the Series I 2.0L engine is on the right hand side in
front of the starter motor. On the Series II 2.0L engine it's moved to the
left hand side and is below the carburator. It's also of a different
design. 

  The oil pressure sender is of a different design. On the Series I 2.0L
engine it's dimensions are thin and cylindrical whereas on the Series II
2.0L engine it is fatter and cylindrical. This may cause problems when
fitting the starter motor as the oil pressure sender is tucked above the
starter between it and the block.

  In my case my truck originally had an ankle burner style heater in the
cab (still does) but the transplanted engine came from a truck with no
heater. This means some pipe & valve swapping.

  I used a micrometer to measure distances from critical surfaces (ie
starter dog to flywheel teeth, flywheel face to clutch, etc. etc.) and it
seems that everything will fit even though the flywheel housing and
flywheel are different. One thing though was that the pointer mounted in
the timing/inspection hatch on the side of the flywheel cover fouled the
new flywheel. This was fixed by reversing the direction of the pointer,
but this means that it is no longer accurate as far as timing goes...

There are a few more things that I'll pass on as I think of them...

-Sean

------------------------------

From: Sean Morrison <seanm@dnai.com>
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 10:42:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Electrics

Does anyone know off hand if anything has to be changed in the distributor
when converting from negative earth to positive earth (no, it's not a
mistake I really do want to conver that way and not the other way around)? 
Aside from the low voltage lines to the coil are there any other changes
to make? Does the condenser operate more effectivly at a certain polarity?
Is there anything else I ought to know? (I know I'm a lazy bugger for not
looking it up...) 

Does anyone have any experiance with swapping starters around on Series
Is? Will an older starter fit on a slightly less old mount? It looks like
it ought to.

Thanks in advance,

Sean

------------------------------

From: Oliver_Gottlob@t-online.de (Oliver Gottlob)
Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 17:41:15 +0100
Subject: My new Homepage correct version 

Hello 

Sorry for my first (and second) mail but after 7 hours of htlm, ftp,jpgs
and netscape I was not able to type the adress in the correct form:

Please try this:

http://home.t-online.de/home/Oliver_Gottlob (some pics missing)

http://www.qsl.net/dg5dbv   (full)

Thank you for your patience.

Oli

1976 Landrover 109 Diesel "everyday transport" slow & smokey 

PS: This day I had a visit to the Tuev, and I got it! Next time for the
truck is May 2000 ! (tuev (in Germany) is where the vehicle is checked
strict for any faults.

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 13:45:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Electrics

Sean asks:

Does anyone know off hand if anything has to be changed in the distributor
when converting from negative earth to positive earth (no, it's not a
mistake I really do want to conver that way and not the other way around)?
Aside from the low voltage lines to the coil are there any other changes
to make? Does the condenser operate more effectivly at a certain polarity?
Is there anything else I ought to know? (I know I'm a lazy bugger for not
looking it up...)

Except for some gauges requiring wire swapping (ammeter and the like),
swapping the coil polarity and repolarizing the dynamo should do it.

I want to see you swap the polarity on the distributor condenser - that
could make for some interesting insulated mounts...8*)

------------------------------

From: Elwyn York <Elwyny@mailshuttle.com>
Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 18:50:23 +0100
Subject: Re: 2.25 to 2.5 or 2.6L Diesel

Ok, I checked with a freind. Basically the answer is NO. The 2.5L D will
NOT fit into a series 2/3 motor, as the Bellhousing on the g/box is the
wrong shape.  There may be other changes as well but as i have never tried
it i dont know.

2nd. There is a company in "Preens Edy" in Shropshire, called "Phillips"
who a number of years ago did conversion kits for a Perkins 4203 3L Diesel
to slip into a series motor.  I dont know whether they do any conversions
but sources say that they may know who would.  Which means it cant Not be
done.

Cheers for now
Have Fun. Elwyn
Landrover S3 Lightweight
Elwyny@mailshuttle.com

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 04 May 98 14:50:06 EST
Subject: Re[2]: 2.25 to 2.5 or 2.6L Diesel

somebody (I forget who) wrote:

>Ok, I checked with a freind. Basically the answer is NO. The 2.5L D will 
>NOT fit into a series 2/3 motor, as the Bellhousing on the g/box is the 
>wrong shape.  There may be other changes as well but as i have never tried 
>it i dont know.

if this is the case, then a flywheel, flywheel housing, and starter from 
the 2.25 5-main bearing diesel will work. It will fit straight up to both 
the block and the g'box.

later
DaveB

------------------------------

From: David Russell <David_R@mindspring.com>
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 16:35:22 -0400
Subject: Sighting

4:20PM EDT Monday

(marine?) Blue RHD 88" with tropical roof heading southbound on Connecticut
Ave in Kensington MD. Saw you at CT and Knowles intersection.

MD plate, 924 24L
UK plate, KAB 1680

Anybody?

Cheers

David Russell
1997 Discovey SD 5-speed
90% of the pieces needed for a 1969 SIIA "Bugeye" 88" SW Petrol
1965+/- SIIA 109" P/U Diesel, "Loo" (Thanks DaveB)
1977 Toyota FJ40 Land Cruiser (sort of)
http://www.mindspring.com/~david_r

------------------------------

From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 14:59:16 -0500
Subject: First SI Sightning

Yesterday I saw my first Series I truck.
They are not common to come by, not as series cars, from which I see about 5-10 
daily. 
It was quite in bad shape concerning to looks, but it was running well, and 
looked liked being used thoroughly. It was an old man's car.
Nice truck.

LGM
88 or 109 still looking!

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------------------------------

From: "Ben Brand" <ben_brand@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 14:37:08 PDT
Subject: unsubscribe

unsubscribe

------------------------------

From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 18:23:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: British Car Day

Just a quick bit of info for everyone to mark on the calendar.
For anyone who will be in the general area of Pittsburgh, Pa. in mid-July....
The 18th Annual British Car Day at Schenley Park will be held on Sat. July 18th
The Vintage Grand Prix is held the following Day on Sunday, with the time
trials going on during the British Car Day festivities.  The Fort Pitt Land
Rover Group is not one of the sponsors but we do try to promote it as much
as we can to help out.  If you don't believe my shameless promotion you can
ask either of the two reprobates from D.C., Spenny or Dave B, who were at
last years event about the event.  If you would like any further info  call
Jim Underwood (724)-929-8187 or Dan Coughenour (814) 446-6474.

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
Pittsburgh, Pa.

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 19:16:51 EDT
Subject: Re:  British Car Day

In a message dated 5/4/98 6:32:10 PM, you wrote:

>The Vintage Grand Prix is held the following Day on Sunday, with the time
>trials going on during the British Car Day festivities.  The Fort Pitt Land
>Rover Group is not one of the sponsors but we do try to promote it as much
>as we can to help out.

I just gotta ask... how *do* the LRs do in the G-P & time trials? Wouldn't it
be a hoot to enter an 88 diesel?! You better get the pole and then keep 'em
all behind the smoke-screen... ;-)

--pat.

------------------------------

From: Bren Workman <bworkman@alaska.net>
Date: Tue, 05 May 1998 15:37:27 -0700
Subject: Removing tranny from engine

I'm at my wits end, here.  I am currently trying to free the tranny
ensemble from the engine on a '72 88" parts rig, but I am not having any
luck.  I have undone all the nuts holding the flywheel housing to the
block, dropped the tranny frame mounts completely out, rested oil sump
on wood, and freed all other linkages.  The tranny assembly is suspended
by my make-shift hoist of 5000 lb. ratchet straps.  
  Am I missing something here?  The workshop manual simply says to "undo
nuts and seperate from engine".  About as helpful as the Haynes.  Do I
need to put it in a certain gear?  The clutch slave cylinder has been
removed, and the rod is hanging out of the bump on the flywheel
housing.  Starter is removed.
  Please help if you know any secret techniques.  I need to get rid of
this vehicle before the MP's throw me out of my housing!  Thanks, Bren. 

Bren Workman
Ft. Wainwright, AK
(907) 356-3947
'72 88"  "Tilly"
'72 88"  "'Leper' the parts vehicle"
'65 109" SW  "Baldwin"  Resting for his Alaska to Georgia
cross-continental Land Rover Anniversary pilgramage: A wife, a daughter,
three fat cats, a German Shepard named "Rover", and me, as the idiot

------------------------------

From: "Alan Logue" <logue@a011.aone.net.au>
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 11:40:34 +0930
Subject: coils(ignition)/resistor

Ah, discussion on this little beast at last!
I just had to drill out the remains of one of these useless items from the
center of my dissy cap!
The thing was broken while the clutch system was being replaced (!), and the
bit left in the cap had virtually welded itself in place
Didn't have a spare with me at the time, but after I got the little s##t
out,, it ran ok, other than the previous missing problem!
No one here in Oz seems to know why it was even there, and I only put it
back originally because it had been there and I figured (wrongly) that it
did something useful!
Like I said before, this list is a great resource
Alan
Logue & Associates
PO Box 689
Morphett Vale
South Australia
Ph +61-8-83228965
Fax +61-8-83875535

------------------------------

From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 20:38:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re:  British Car Day

>In a message dated 5/4/98 6:32:10 PM, you wrote:
>>The Vintage Grand Prix is held the following Day on Sunday, with the time
>>trials going on during the British Car Day festivities.  The Fort Pitt Land
>>Rover Group is not one of the sponsors but we do try to promote it as much
>>as we can to help out.
>I just gotta ask... how *do* the LRs do in the G-P & time trials? Wouldn't it
>be a hoot to enter an 88 diesel?! You better get the pole and then keep 'em
>all behind the smoke-screen... ;-)

Either that or lay down enough oil so that you need 4X4 to make it through on
the next lap..... On the serious side, it is a great event.  The Vintage
race on Sat is a blast.  E-mail me if you want any info.

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
Pittsburgh, Pa.

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 23:44:30 +0200
Subject: Re: SIII diesels

(Mark asks about diesels versus petrols, and all things series III wise)

Hi Mark,

I have never owned a petrol Series, but for the last year I have looked
after a 88" petrol SIII 1973 for a ffriend who is out of the country, so
I have some grounds for comparison. Otherwise I own a 109" SIII (1976)
an 88" SIII (1972) and an 88" SIII (1979) - all have the standard 2.25
ltr 4 cylinder diesel. The 109 I bought in 1984, the 88(1979) in 1985
and the 88 from 1972 I bought last year. All have been rebuilt from the
frame up.

I guess the proof of the pudding is that I have been almost 100%
dependent on land rovers since 1984 - 14 years - using them as daily
drivers, for the family and for business.

With very few exceptions, most failures have been due to bad/late/lack
of maintenance on my part - old batteries, a little rust here... I have
had very few real breakdowns which were the fault of the car and its
parts rather than my procrastination or lack of money or time to repair
at times. These cars are reliable, rebuildable, and when they get to
that age, their value can't fall any more, so any rebuilds always
increase the value - as I don't intend to sell them, then value is a
somewhat abstract concept.

There are the continuous small problems - the indicator lights which go
bad connections every six months, the oil or fuel guage plays up now and
again, the wipers go on strike, and the indicator column switch needs
changing every couple or three years. The speedo goes haywire, or the
timing needs adjusting. But by and large, these are common electrical
problems which are more due to the rest of the car lasting so many years
- by comparison most cars would be scrapped due to serious structural
rust or mechanical failure long before the electrics give up. A
thourough rewire once every 10-15 years would cure this constant barrage
of small lucas failures.

Being diesel, the electric failures are more "cosmetic" than "terminal"
- the car always starts, whether its wet, cold, or hot. In that way
diesels are very reliable.

The motor will run on almost any fuel oil - diesel, light diesel,
heating oil, even with mixtures of paraffin and petrol - they are not
fussy if you get a bad tank full. The multiple filter system means that
water or grit in the fuel tank is rarely a problem.

A major thing to remember is that diesels, becuase they keep on running,
don't give sudden indication of deteriorated performance, they die very
slowly - so that a flushing of the fuel lines, a tune up of the motor,
an oil change, can feel like getting a new car.

I have twice had the 2.25 motor rebored and rebuilt, and the effect is
worth it. I don't follow the figures - bhp, torque and all that, after
14 years of rovering I tend to judge by the feel and the sound of the
car, how does it handle? how does it respond? When does it make smoke?

I normally tune the motor and adjust the rockers every two or three
months, but it can be longer between tune-ups - these tune ups keep
performance up and smoke down. And it's easy. (The first 10 or 15 times
are the hardest, after that it becomes routine).

The first 4 or 5 years of owning a rover - I treated them with little
respect and expected them to last forever - they gradually fell apart
and the petrformance went down - i decided to get involved and do the
work myself (I have a great workshop at my farm so it's easy for me) The
next two or three years cost a bomb, as I split the cars apart and
gradually changed everything - lots of chassis parts, springs, motor
rebuilds - now I have a routine and a modicum of equilibrium, where most
things work well, and when I dismantle the car to make repairs, I find
very few suprises like rotten chassis parts. I strip the body from the
frame every year or two, and repaint thouroughly, this is something
about which I have become religious - every easter holiday i start, and
one of the cars is of the road for a week or two.

Whenever I get a new part - like the firewall which i am changing at
present - I thouroughly prepare it - paint - galvanise - whatever - its
a pity to spend money by bolting on a rust bomb which would otherwise
explode in a few years. For me a rover is like a house, do it up slowly,
but do it properly, and  each strip-down attack something which hasn't
been attacked before - gradually the car gets better, cheaper, and more
reliable. A repaint every 2 years is a weekends work if you have a good
workshop.

As to diesels - well we diesel owners are somewhat frowned on by the
greenies over here (everyone is a greenie in Denmark) so you learn to
accelerate slowly when cold, to avoid the smoke - but that is good for
the motor and fuel economy too.

I don't rally or do competitions, I don't try to beat a j**p in trying
to drag an iron plate across ploughed fields, so the performance data is
unimportant - but i do work these wagons, moving heavy equipment,
people, and animals. (I live on a farm and run a film company, so that
presents an unlimited array of transport requirements) I have driven the
109 from Denmark to Amsterdam in 11 hours. I have driven the 88 all the
way round Iceland, most of which is pretty rough. I have waded in sea
water up to the ash-tray for a 25 mile journey or two. I have pulled
farm equipment and building materials.

If someone gave me a Defender with a 300TDi I'd be happy - but would I
swop or pay for the pleasure? Never - with the distances and speed
limits in Denmark I have all the speed I need, and more than I like. I
have all the power I need, if I don't mind swapping being the first away
at the traffic lights with being able to pull a tree out of the ground.

Our 88 has had three accidents over the years, always limited to
superficial crumpled aluminium or a steel firewall, never to the
chassis.

I guess Iike the diesel because it's so simple - no complicated
mechanics or electronics, no computer controls, no plastic extras - this
is a tractor in a box. Home repairs are easy, the most of the engine is
accessible, even though I have hands like a baseball catchers glove
(they only have one don't they?).

I use genuine parts when they are important (motor, gearbox, axles,
brakes..) but I adhere to the basic concept of the series - that any
other parts should be able to be made in any village workshop, using
readily available materials. I have made many simple improvements which
a production line can't afford, but which the afficionado can - like
replacing all underside nuts with nuts welded to rubber backed steel
bars which allow removal of the bolt without someone holding the other
side. I use masses of copper grease to make the next strip down easier
and silicon mastic or rubber strips to seperate dissimilar metals.

But at the end of the day such logical arguments are crap and useless,
one must admit that those who vote yes for a rover, are motivated by
love rather than logic - the first time I saw a rover (must have been a
series I or II from the Army Cadets) I said "this is the car for me" - I
waited 10 years and umpteen cortinas, avengers, minis and zephyrs worth
of motoring before, having moved to Denmark, I bought my first rover -
probably a typical expatriot act - like the tweed hat, the cricket
sweater and the plus-fours - none of which I would have worn in the UK!

No - I guess I like the practical, four-square, no-nonsense,
nice-to-know-I'm-gonna-get-home feel of these cars, and I have become an
addict.

But the 2.25 diesel - I can't think of a noisier, hotter, dirtier,
smokier, yet more reliable, repairable and forgiveable block of iron on
the road. But then I guess I am biased?

Hope this helps to answer you question Mark!

Yours roverly

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Tue, 05 May 1998 02:01:56 +0200
Subject: Re: Removing tranny from engine

Dear Bren,

This operation can be a pig! My guess is that the drive splined shaft
from the front of the gearbox is locked into the flywheel in the centre
of the clutch - maybe not enough copper grease on it from the last strip
down. No amount of "uping and downing" of the gearbox will help, as the
motion to loosen must be front to back - not up and down.

I am assuming that you are trying to remove the gearbox and leave the
motor in place - not the other way round!

My trick is to block the engine (which you have done - make sure that
the block is only supporting the flywheel housing and not the gearox -
then gently support the gearbox with a trolly jack - just so that it
takes the weight and lifts the gearbox by about 4 mm - not too much
stress - lifting the gearbox should not lift the flywheel housing off
the wooden block - then step "inside the frame" (you do have the tub
off?) and physically rock the gearbox backwars and forwards.

Just to be sure - check that the following fixings have been removed -

Tranny shafts front and rear
Hand brake assembly and linkages
2 mount bolts on gearbox mounts each side (not the rubber mount but the
bracket with 2 bolts underneath - this is easier)
all nuts on the flywheel housing - 12 if I remember?
Speedo cable

If any of the studbolts around the flywheel housing come free when you
loosen the nuts, remove these - it makes removal easier.

The gear is not important - the important motion for the splined shaft
is < to > - and rotation will neither help nor hinder the process.

If and when you get the lot apart - try and get a "spare" spline shaft -
cut off an old gearbox - so that you can use it to centre the clutch
assembly with the flywheel when you refit - otherwise it is almost
impossible to centre the clutch correctly in relation to the flywheel.
Use plenty of copper grease on the spline - and check that the brass
bush inside the flywheel centre hole is not worn or damaged by the
removal - this is important.

Good luck! I'm hoping to be in AK this summer!

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 20:10:26 -0700
Subject: Re: Set up engine

I have used, with extreme results - K&W Knock Em Loose.
This worked on an engine that got salt water spray inside it, then sat for 9
months.
Nothing I ever used before worked as well at freeing up rusted anything!

2 cents

Cheers
David
Full-time father of a 3.4 year old
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
S/V KALAKALA, Ingrid 38, ketch - our home

------------------------------

From: Sean G Muller <Samwise_Diver@centuryinter.net>
Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 23:16:09 -0500
Subject: Defender 130

I am a new owner of a Discovery but a long time fan of Land Rovers. I
have recently been interested in Defenders and in paticular the 127"
wheel base model. Has anyone ever seen one in North America? Does anyone
know of any scrapped ones? I know it is a long shot but if you do not
try you can not succeed.

Sean Muller
Samwise_Diver@CenturyInter.Net

------------------------------

From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 20:52:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Defender 130

I know of a 130 that was made in Summerland B.C. for an exploration company.
It had beautiful coachwork.  A second one is being produced.

David

------------------------------

From: "Richard Clarke"<Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au>
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 16:13:40 +1000
Subject: buying a defender 130

I have just agreed to purchase a one year old crew cab defender 130 :-)

do any of you non-North American types know of any particular weaknesses
they may have (eg the old Australian Isuzu 110s very early on got a
reputation for breaking front diffs.)
I have heard of problems with the wheel bearings as they are greased and
not lubricated with diff oil as with the old series stuff, and have drive
flanges which let in water - can anyone confirm?

(I know that technically this may be a coil sprung question but I have a
number of leaf sprung vehicles too - and I intend to treat it like a leaf
spring vehicle :-)  so please forgive me  )

------------------------------

From: b.boehlers@olsy.dk (Bent Boehlers)
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 08:35:08 +0200
Subject: RE: New HOMEPAGE

         >>http://home.t-online.de/home/Oliver_Gottlob/

Works fine, exept some of the pictures. All pictures with the special 
Deutche characters is impossible to load. NB: in the first messages the 
home/ was missing.

That is because the a with 2 dots is converted somewhere. If I look at 
properties, it is only a square, then from the rest of the word I can guess 
which character, and write it the normal way, and the pictures are no 
problem anymore.

 picture 101g.jpg   is no problem
 picture gelande.jpg  is a problem

Liber Oliver, ist es moglich, alle hinvise zum anderen html seiten, und 
bildern, nur mit denn Englishen buchstaben namen zu geben? Es will alles 
fur uns anderer, nicht Deutche, leichter machen.

Viele grusse aus Danemark

Bent

X-deleted-begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT

	[Attachment WINMAIL.DAT removed, was 39 lines.]	end

------------------------------

From: Ian Stuart <ian.stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 05 May 1998 08:15:50 +0000
Subject: Re: Steering box

Peter Monk wrote:
> My steering box (IIa 88) is leaking through the rocker arm oil seal.
> Can the oil seal be replaced with the steering box still on the car?
> Or failing that, can I replace it without dismantling the
> steering box?  Any suggestions?
Having just rebuilt my steering box.....

No, you can't replace the O-ring with the rocker-arm in the box.

What you can do is take the plate off the side of the steering box (!not
the end plates - you'll lose ball-bearings and end up having to remove
the whole thing!) and take the rocker-arm out, leaving the worm on
place.

Note - the drop arm is a real b@st@rd to remove - I had to use a
home-made puller as a normal puller is too loose for the job.

-- 
Ian Stuart
Medicine & Veterinary Medicine Computing Support
The University of Edinburgh

              http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/

LandRovers - a 50-year-old stop-gap that has become the most successful 
             4x4 production vehicle in the world.

------------------------------

From: "T.D.I.Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 09:19:22 +0100
Subject: Re: Front End Vibration: 

Incorrect pre-load of the swivel bearings can produce these symptoms of
steering wobble. You can correct this by removing some shims from under the
top swivel pin and checking the effort needed to keep the hub moving on the
swivel (once the initial inertia is overcome) with a spring balance. It
should be about 8-10 lb with the hub, halfshaft and seal removed. If this
doesn't work because there aren't enough shims, then the swivel bearing and
top bush require replacement. This is not a difficult job, just a pain in
the neck, since you have to remove the brakes, hub, stub axle, half-shaft,
swivel assembly etc. to do it properly.
Fitting a steering damper may mask the problem for a while, but it will only
get worse.

Tom Stevenson
SNL Mussel Project
University Marine Biological Station
Tel: 01475 530581  Fax: 01475 530601  Email: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
Web page: http://www.gla.ac.uk/Acad/Marine/

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258 <CIrvin1258@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 04:50:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Set up engine

Well...

Try diesel fuel. If this doesn't work, then more aggressive measures are in
order, though you'll end up re-boring the engine.

When ALL else fails, trot down to the local Home Depot, and pick up some
miriatic acid. It works great!

Charles

------------------------------

From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 21:15:18 +1000
Subject: Winch Danger

All, sorry about the multi-post but, if this is true, it has ramifications
for many of us

I received the following this morning from a guy in the office (out of
Horizons Magazine so you may see it anyway).  It could be an urban myth.
I haven't yet checked the pin connections of the Warn controller to see
if it is feasible but, it may be worth printing in the LROC newsletter.
I'll try to do this tonight.

By the way, you can get isolators at marine shops e.g., Whitworths.

Ron

Warning - Electric Winch Owners
Please pass this on to the Clubs and 4WD Owners

I wish to pass on some information that came to me by word of mouth.
Unfortunately, I have not been able to confirm this story.

If you own an electric winch on your 4WD, then you may wish to fit some
kind of battery isolation device to disable the winch power supply.

Apparently there are some youths in the Sydney area that have worked out
a way to destroy your 4WD.  What they are doing is free-spooling out
your winch cable, running it over your roof, hooking the cable onto your
towbar or rear axle and then shorting out the control box socket with a
paper clip or bobby pin.  They then bugger off and leave your 4WD to
destroy itself.

The way to stop this from being done to your 4WD is to isolate the power
supply to your winch.  First check what amps your winch draws and then
go to see an auto electrician or 4WD repair shop to see what isolators
are available.

Mick Tait.

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 11:01:39 +0100
Subject: RE: Rotating 3-4 selector rod?

If its the pin/grub screw that's the problem, you'll probably want to
replace the (Al?) casing around the ball on the gearstick.  I had recurrent
grubscrew problems which weren't really solved until I did this.   My
gearstick assembly is actual from two vehicles and has a new base plate
(for a reversing switch when I wire it up!)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

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