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From: Olafur Agust Axelsson <olafura@rhi.hi.is>
Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 10:39:20 +0000
Subject: Starting in cold weather!

Hi!
I always thought that cars and LRs were more easy to start in hot weather
than cold - My 2.25 petrol LR is the other way around - It is rather
difficult to start it when hot, I have to turn it alot and when comes to
life it coughes up a lot of smoke! - but it is ever a problem when cold.  -
OK it takes a few turnes to be smooth running - but it is running!!

WHY?

Olafur Agust

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
olafura@hi.is	    http://www.hi.is/~olafura

"Don't take life so seriously 
		... it's not permanent."

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 08:26:30 EDT
Subject: Re:  LRNA Colorado Adventure

In a message dated 5/2/98 8:41:58 PM, you wrote:

>Just as a matter of interest, did anybody on the lists get invited to 
>Colorado via the mailed invitation?

Yeah, I filed it in the same receptacle as the "LR Adventures", seeing as it
would take me 3 days to get to CO in the 110, just to get taught how to drive
a 4.6 (learn to drive an automatic!) and then three days to get back. The only
thing I'll miss are some LR goodies they're sure to toss around...

pat.
93  110

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 08:37:52 EDT
Subject: Re:  Starting in cold weather!

In a message dated 5/3/98 7:45:20 AM, you wrote:

>It is rather
>difficult to start it when hot, I have to turn it alot and when comes to
>life it coughes up a lot of smoke! - but it is ever a problem when cold.

When it is hot:
-The valve seals & guides are expanded a wee, tiny bit more than the stems,
and the oil is a bit thinner, allowing it to seep into the chamber; that's the
smoke on startup, not usually a problem.
-The carburator is hot, which heats the fuel in the bowl, or in some cases can
pressurize the bowl, lowering the fuel level in there, or if it vaporized
while off, it will take the pump a few turns to prime the bowl.

Or, maybe you have a Southern Hemisphere Thermostat installed. Check your VIN
to make sure it isn't part of the batch of vehicles meant for New Zealand that
got diverted at the docks. The southern hemisphere thermostats are reversed,
and don't know when to give you hard starting.

good luck, and let us know if you have the "SHT" ;-)

pat.

------------------------------

From: Lorri Paustian <lorri@sound.net>
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 06:40:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: LRNA Colorado Adventure

Peter,
No one in our club.  In fact, one member received three invites, sent all
three back overnight express, and got three "thanks but no thanks."  We got
our "apologies" reply last weekend.
At 08:38 PM 5/2/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Just as a matter of interest, did anybody on the lists get invited to 
>Colorado via the mailed invitation?
>Peter Goundry
>67 GS109" IIA, 73 Lightweight, 97 D90 #127

Lorri Paustian, Flatland Rover Society
Lenexa, Kansas
'95 Coniston Green D90 SW
'95 Arles Blue D90 SW
'93 D110

------------------------------

From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard)
Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 06:55:21 -0700
Subject: resistors

Hi Matt,
On the stabilizer, the B is battery, and the I is instruments.In fact on a
late 2A which comes with the resistor, the wires only can plug on one way
because of the genderizing of the terminals.

By the way, be sure the stabilizer is mounted to ground with its mounting
so it can function properly. 

The ballast resistor goes between the battery and coil.
The stock coil has an internal one.
You can use the spare bosch coil, but be sure to use the resistor. If you
don't, you will have a hotter spark but will fry the points sooner.

A way to tell is to measure the voltage at the ign/battery side of the
coil, and if you measure 12v more or less, then it is internal and if you
measure 6v more or less, it is external resistor.

Good luck,
Bob Bernard

Bob Bernard <bobnsueb@maxinet.com>
Paradise,CA. 530-877-2749
69-88 "Sherman"
65-88 "Olivia"
51-80 "Shorty"

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 11:47:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Spray on Bedliners

A link I saw in the April 98 4wheel & off road magazine:

www.armacoatings.com

------------------------------

From: "David Dodell" <discovery@stat.com>
Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 08:52:31 -0700
Subject: Re: LRNA Colorado Adventure

On Sun, 3 May 1998 06:40:04 -0700 (PDT), Lorri Paustian wrote:

>No one in our club.  In fact, one member received three invites, sent all
>three back overnight express, and got three "thanks but no thanks."  We got
>our "apologies" reply last weekend.

Kinda interesting isn't it ... since I remember getting the mail via bulk
mail; I wonder if everyone on the west coast was "punished" since it will
take alot longer for bulk mail to arrive here if it originated in Maryland
(I'm in Arizona) ... I mailed mine back the next day and also get the apology
letter.

david
---
Internet: david@stat.com
Web      : http://www.stat.com
Fax        : +1 602 451 6135

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 11:52:59 EDT
Subject: Re:  Waterproofing

The April issue of 4-Wheel & Off Road has a feature on waterproofing. 

If you can't find the magazine and want the article, let me know. 

It doesn't mention Lawrence's "aquarium-pump" method, though, and there's an
opportunity for him to make Singapore's off-road innovation famous! I've
thought about that since he's mentioned it, and when i think about it, I have
this mental image of my distributor providing air to goldfish... so the other
day, i was at dinner with some people, and reverted to my childhood (not
*that* long ago), blowing bubbles in my coke, thinking about my distibutor!

pat
93  110

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 13:08:09 EDT
Subject: Auxiliary Lighting

FWIW, here are some Hella Part #s, sourced from European Car magazine, June
98. That issue has an article on lighting, mainly aimed at the "lowered
import" car owner, but informative. They even have a LR Disco sidebar install
in the article. Anyway, the part numbers were the handiest thing.

Hella Standard 12V Headlamps

Part #      Watts             Desc.
70476       60/55            H4 European style 7inch round for two lamp setup
70477       60/55            H4 SAE/DOT 7inch round for two lamp setup
78155       60/55            H4 Bulb, 12V
78158       100/55          H4 Bulb, 12V
78159       100/80 (!)      H4 bulb, 12V

Hella Inc.
201 Kelly Drive
Peachtree City, GA 30269
(800) 247-5924

------------------------------

From: RykRover <RykRover@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 15:07:18 EDT
Subject: Re: LRNA 50th celebration

In a message dated 98-05-01 01:23:30 EDT, you write:

> Subj:	 Re: LRNA 50th celebration
>  Date:	98-05-01 01:23:30 EDT
>  From:	rgrant@cadvision.com (Rick Grant)
>  Reply-to:	lro@playground.sun.com
>  To:	lro@playground.sun.com
>  At 10:21 PM 30/04/98 EDT, RykRover, wrote

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> and
>  >behold they picked my name. Absolutely couldn`t believe
it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>  Well congratulations!  I'm glad it didn't go to somebody whose knowledge of
>  LR ownership extended only as far as being able to turn the key.  Good to
>  know it's going to somebody who can appreciate it.
>  Now I wonder, is the dealer going to include some servicing with the
>  To:	lro@playground.sun.com
vehicle
>  and if so, do they have a clue?
>  Again, congratulations.
>  			Rick Grant
>  Now I wonder, is the dealer going to include some servicing with the
>  To:	lro@playground.sun.com
>  At 10:21 PM 30/04/98 EDT, RykRover, wrote

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 21 lines)]
>  Return-Path: <owner-lro@playground.sun.com>
>  Received: from  relay16.mx.aol.com (relay16.mail.aol.com [172.31.106.72])
by 
> air08.mail.aol.com (v43.5) with SMTP; Fri, 01 May 1998 01:23:30 -0400
>  Received: from playground.sun.com ([192.9.5.21])
>  	  by relay16.mx.aol.com (8.8.5/8.8.5/AOL-4.0.0)
>  	  with ESMTP id BAA03649;
>  	  Fri, 1 May 1998 01:23:21 -0400 (EDT)
>  Received: from localhost (daemon@localhost)
>  	by playground.sun.com (8.9.0.Beta7+Sun/8.9.0.Beta7) with SMTP id 
WAA28016;
>  	Thu, 30 Apr 1998 22:19:39 -0700 (PDT)
>  Received: by Land-Rover.Team.Net (bulk_mailer v1.3); Thu, 30 Apr 1998
22:19:
> 35 -0700
>  Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 23:19:26 -0600
>  Reply-To: lro@playground.sun.com
>  To: lro@playground.sun.com
>  X-To: lro@playground.sun.com
>  From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
>  Subject: Re: LRNA 50th celebration
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>  Subject: Re: LRNA 50th celebration
>  Message-ID: <bulk.28002.19980430221935@Land-Rover.Team.Net>
Good question , They wouldn`t touch the `63 . I guess it confused them without
computers and such.

Rgds, Rick

------------------------------

From: Oliver_Gottlob@t-online.de (Oliver Gottlob)
Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 19:15:14 +0100
Subject: New HOMEPAGE

ello all,

I´ve build (and load) up my new Homepage:

         http://home.t-online.de/Oliver_Gottlob

In my first Mail I typed .../OLiver_Gottlob that was wrong

sorry !

Oli

1976 Landrover 109 Diesel "everyday transport" slow & smokey
I will be at ARC Rally 1998.

------------------------------

From: MRogers315 <MRogers315@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 15:22:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Subject: coils(ignition)

> I was wonering if someone could explain teh differenced between the LR
> series coils and other car coils, is one internally resisted and the
>other externally? Which is which? and how do I wire in a non-landrover
> coil if need be? (I have an external resistor will it work and where
> does it wire in? between the coil and Dizzy or coil and ignition?) >>

You only need a resistor on ignition systems that run a coil of reduced
voltage. This system allows full availiable volts from the battery during
cranking (whilst the voltage is reduced due to the load taken by the starter
motor) The coil used on this setup is normaly 8-10 volt. V8 Land Rovers use
this system. Earlier leaf sprung series vehicles as far as I know used a 12
volt coil with no provision to boost the spark during cranking. You can tell
which system your vehicle uses by looking to see if there is a wire from the
starter or solonoid  direct to the coil to bypass the balast resistor. Or
check the voltage at the coil with the engine running. 

Now if you run a 12 volt coil on a resisted system the sparks will always be
weak. However if you run a reduced voltage coil on a 12 volt system it will be
fine on startup but the coil will probably soon burn out and will certainly
run hot and cause bad running problems.

Here endeth my lesson on coils (ignition)!!

Mike Rogers
Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 15:36:41 EDT
Subject: Re:  Re: Subject: coils(ignition)/resistor

In a message dated 5/3/98 3:29:38 PM, you wrote:

>You only need a resistor on ignition systems that run a coil of reduced
>voltage. This system allows full availiable volts from the battery during
>cranking (whilst the voltage is reduced due to the load taken by the starter
>motor) The coil used on this setup is normaly 8-10 volt. V8 Land Rovers use
>this system.

WRT V8's, at least on the 3.9 EFI like mine, there's a resistor inside the
center of the dist cap, where the coil wire comes in. If it is still there,
take it out. LR issued a directive to the effect of, if it breaks, don't
replace it, and if you service the vehicle (dealers) check for it and remove
it. I only found out about it when I took the 110 in for something and the
mechanic asked to look under the hood, he then located the little bugger and
tossed it. I asked what it was and he said a resistor that would have cracked
one day and left me stranded without knowing what it was. Oh well.

--pat.

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 15:41:27 EDT
Subject: Oli's home page

Oli, I'd really like to see your page, but the border guards don't like the
looks of my Visa... I tried saying "fahrvegnugen, fahrvegnugen lower the
drawbridge, of farhvergnugen..." but it didn't work, they just told me:

Private Homepage
Das Dokument konnte nicht gefunden werden. 
Bitte überprüfen Sie Ihre URL 
Hinweis : 
Bei Dateinamen wird auf Groß- und Kleinschreibung unterschieden 

--pat.

------------------------------

From: mark.luker@virgin.net (mark.luker@virgin.net)
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 22:15:10 +0100
Subject: Just got myself a Landie.

After reporting about the Landrover Rally in Whitby last weekend, and me
being sans Landrover. I have put everything to rights. I've just bought a
1977 Series III. I don't pick it up until the end of the month, but I'm
still very happy.

It's good to be back.

Mark.

------------------------------

From: Erik van Dyck <erikvandyck@mindspring.com>
Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 17:11:25 -0500
Subject: 50th Anniversary Party

>I've got a some good clueless dealer anecdotes about the 50th Anniversary
>thing at the dealers. I was invited to a couple of the local dealers to
>display my Series III 88. 
>Karen Sindir

I was also asked to loan my Series truck to the local dealer (Hennesey L-R,
Buckhead/Atlanta, Georgia).  I was treated as an honored guest, given a new
Disco to drive for the day, also a nifty umbrella and a small 1948-1998
plague.  The sales manager even asked if I wanted a free oil change, which
I declined.
Thanks to Richard Gedes and Randy Smith of Hennesey.  By the way, I liked
the new Disco but will keep my Landy!
Erik van Dyck
1973 Series III  88"
Suwanee, Georgia

------------------------------

From: "John C. Hinkle" <defender110@email.msn.com>
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 16:22:30 -0500
Subject: Re: LRNA Colorado Adventure

Three of us in Dallas managed to Fed Ex ours the next day. All got
invitations.
Chris Hinkle

------------------------------

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=_NextPart_000_01BD76A3.FF851320" ]
From: John Putnam <jdputnam@oriongps.com>
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 14:58:55 -0700
Subject: RE: Rotating 3-4 selector rod?

Adrian,

I had a similar thing happen to the Rhino ( no, I did not land it on its =
side ).  On the way home one night, shifting got very stiff.  At first I =
thought the gearbox had seen a bright light at the end of a tunnel and =
was about to give up the ghost.  As I got off the freeway and on the =
country roads leading home the selector then started to rotate freely ( =
this makes it very difficult to shift I might add ).  In my case, the =
culprit was the set screw meant to keep the selector from rotating =
freely.  It screws into the selector housing leaving about 5mm =
protruding into a slot in the selector it's self.  The little thing has =
know head so it worked is way into the selector making for the stiff =
shifting until the hardened steal of the selector turned it into powder. =
 The whole system is a little weak and the force of falling on it could =
cause some problems.  I retrofitted the Rhino with a 20x6mm case =
hardened cap screw that I ground the threads of the last 5mm.  Works =
great.

John Putnam
70 SWB SIIa, Rhino
Forest Grove, OR

[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: application/ms-tnef ]

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 19:06:43 EDT
Subject: Re:  50 year plague

In a message dated 5/3/98 5:17:45 PM, you wrote:

>I was treated as an honored guest, given a new
>Disco to drive for the day, also a nifty umbrella and a small 1948-1998
>plague.

there are some that would claim that owning a british vehicle is akin to
getting the plague...  ;-)

--pat.

------------------------------

From: "Mark Talbot" <rangerover@top.monad.net>
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 19:43:08 -0400
Subject: NH off -road May 17th  

All,

Well, we scouted 18 miles of trails today, most class 6 roads. Besides a few
concrete blocks and a steep rocky trail, there would have been much more. In
total I have over 25 miles of trails mapped out now, all for your enjoyment.

Those interested in coming on the 17th may, e-mail me back as I will limit
space to the first 10 vehicles.

------------------------------

From: Jarvis 64 <Jarvis64@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 21:41:03 EDT
Subject: FREE--taken

Sorry folks, the free backplates are all gone.

Bill Rice
Watertown NY
SIIA 109 Mrs. Merdle

------------------------------

From: Jarvis 64 <Jarvis64@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 21:41:09 EDT
Subject: Cheap axle breathers

Hi everybody,
I made my own axle breathers for not much $.  Here's what I used:

2 Pipe fittings (1/4"x1/8 NPT)--REAL close to axle breather thread--these are
brass, so you can just thread 'em in bit by bit.

about 6 feet of 1/4 fuel line

2 fuel filters--any 1/4" in-line filter will work just fine

zip ties.

Just put the pipe fittings in place of the breathers and route the fuel line
as you desire (I ran one up the side of the raditator, up to the top of it,
and the other through a hole drilled just in front of my rear toolbox), making
sure to leave enough slack to allow that awesome leaf-sprung articulation to
take place.

Cap each line off w/ a fuel filter, which keeps crap from going down into your
axle and viola!

Cost about $14 for all the bits, so it's not a huge savings, but it was kind
of fun.

Bill Rice
64 SIIA (grease in the hubs :-).
Watertown NY

------------------------------

From: Jarvis 64 <Jarvis64@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 22:47:52 EDT
Subject: IIA tailgate and hoopset (109)

Anybody got 'em for sale?

I'm lookin' to convert my 109SW for the GA heat.

Bill

------------------------------

From: GcdoAK <GcdoAK@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 23:08:31 EDT
Subject: Site update and candid shots of Bill Leacock

Hi folks,

  I updated my site today with a few links.  For those of you who always
wanted to see what kind of face goes with the brilliant, and ever helpfull
with mechanical trivia, mind of Bill Leacock go to
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/5870/    That's Bill standing to the
left in the blue shirt and ball cap.
  You can see the pictures of his Series III that got shoved into the puddle
by a stump that he tried to drive by/over.  The hi-lift jack you see in the
third picture of his rig was necessary due to the 18in diameter log that is
buried in the dirt just in front of the left front wheel.  Seemed that no
matter how fast he spun his mud pluggas they just wouldn't hook up.  Took a
D-90 with ARB rear, the hi-lift and several attempts to get him clear.

Cheers,
Jon Stehn
gcdoak@aol.com
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/5870/

------------------------------

From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 19:33:52 -0700
Subject: Re: New HOMEPAGE

Is this working for anyone else?

Cheers
David
Full-time father of a 3.4 year old
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
S/V KALAKALA, Ingrid 38, ketch - our home

------------------------------

From: he00885%av007crmfm@cscfm.health.wa.gov.au (Hora. Peter)
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 11:36 WST
Subject: Looking for Defender rear-seat catch

Hi,

my 94 Defender is missing the left- and right-hand latches for the rear folding 
seats' back-rests.

I am in Australia but I will be travelling in Europe soon.  Please let me know 
if you have some for sale.

Thanks,
Peter

------------------------------

From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 20:53:32 -0700
Subject: Re: Cheap axle breathers

Sounds cool about the breathers - great idea, executed well.
Grease really - contact me off line so as not to raise the dead..........

wahooadv@earthlink.net
using oil in hubs........ but with an open mind

Cheers
David
Full-time father of a 3.4 year old
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
S/V KALAKALA, Ingrid 38, ketch - our home

------------------------------

From: Sean Morrison <seanm@dnai.com>
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 23:54:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Unrestored Series I engine transplant cont.

Well this weekend we managed to get the new engine installed. The first
thing we had to deal with was that when we took the old one out we found
that the motor mounts had disintegrated.

We ordered new motor mounts and also a clutch alignment tool. We needed to
remove the clutch basket from the old engine and bolt it to the flywheel
of the new one. When we took it off we realized that the bolts needed to
mount it to the new engine were too hard to get seperated from the old
one's flywheel. So we unbolted the old flywheel from the old crankshaaft
and bolted it up to the new engines crankshaft. We then realized that the
flywheels were of a slightly different design which nesscesitated some
modification of the oldflywheel newengine combination. 

We untorqued the clutchbasket and used the clutch alignment tool (aka #$!@
@$!*er extrordinaire) to realign everything prior to reinstallation
attempt #2. Once aligned we torqued it down again. Then we lowered the new
engine into the engine bay. Upon doing this we realized that the new
engine mounts were slightly too large (as series I mounts are no longer
available we elected to buy series II mounts to replace the disintegrated
ones). We got one to fit and re-used one of the old ones. We then realized
that the carb on the new engine used en entirely different operating
mechanism which meant that we had to take it off and pull the old carb off
the old engine to put on the new one. The old carb couldn't be installed
eaisly due to the studs being rusted which meant the we had to disassemble
the carb to get it bolted to the intake manifold. This done we begin
wiring up the electrics only to find that the engine was from a vehicle
that was negativly grounded. So we began converting it to positive ground.
We also noticed that the dynamo tensioning bracket was non existant and
had to be fabricated from bits of metal that were kicking around under the
floorboards.

After all of this was done we realized that we couldn't get the starter
motor off of the old engine without it sustaining severe damage. We could
not countenance it as a casualty and therefore elected to use the crank
start in our first attempts at ressurection/ressusitation. This proved so
dangerous (as the crank didn't fit the engagement/dis-engagment mechanism
and repeatedly attmpted to break both my wrist and arm) that the attampt
was postponed. 

As an interesting aside the vehicle lacks a pasenger compartment and the
driver (or controler/instument watcher in this case) has to sit upon the
frame itself with a large red plastic fuel tank (borrowed from a boat)
rests on the transmission next to him. This is because(1) the bodywork is
entirely removed and (2)the fuel tank was leaking and was removed far from
any sparking wiring.

The sense of danger was not lost on the party of onlookers barbeque-ing
downhill from us as the freshly transplanted (and re-assabled) carburator
leaked massivly enough to send a small river of gas in their direction.

Stay tuned for the next installment of danger-dan and the renagade
rover...

 
Please excuse any technical inacuracies as this was written at the end of
a VERY long and tiring day... all in accuracies are no doubt due not to
any lack of technical skill on the part of the writer/mechanic(s) but to
an overabundant enthusiasm for the consumption of Bass... Any suggestion
comments etc would be greatly appreciated.

 

------------------------------

From: philippe.carchon@rug.ac.be
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 10:47:14 +0200
Subject: Re: front end vibration

I have also some wear in the joints, added a steering damper and I'm very 
happy with it. Because of the damper you have less vibrations. A 
disadvantage is that the steering (parking) is heavier. Is it worth the cost 
? I get it for free from a guy who couldn't use it so for me it was really 
worth the cost. I think if you do some off roading it's worth the cost. If 
you're always on the highway then not.

I have also some questions:
I have a lot of vibrations in the high/low selector (the one with the red 
knob) I've driving more than 70 km/h. Something wrong ? Something easy to 
repair or do I have to live with it ?
 
My speedo died 2 months ago. It is still counting the number of miles (km's) 
but the needle is'nt moving anymore. Can a speedo be repaired or do I need a 
new one ?

Philippe Carchon
Ghent, Belgium
'80 FFR lightweight.

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 11:07:22 +0200
Subject: Re: Rotating 3-4 selector rod?

Thanks to all who replied to my selector rod quandry.

I pulled the top off the box, and true enough, the bolt which holds the
3-4 selector to the rod was burred sufficiently to allow the rod to
rotate. Replacing the bolt (which is an 8mm ISO thread) solved the
problem.

Nate's trick with the grease - filling the 1-2 selector detent hole with
grease to hold the ball in place when removing the cover - worked a
treat. (This man must be wasted on pathology - this was a cure!)

Thanks again :-)

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: Ketil Oftedahl <ketil.oftedahl@datapoint.no>
Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 11:43:04 +0200
Subject: Re: New HOMEPAGE

Oliver Gottlob wrote:
> ello all,
> I´ve build (and load) up my new Homepage:
>          http://home.t-online.de/Oliver_Gottlob
> In my first Mail I typed .../OLiver_Gottlob that was wrong

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> In my first Mail I typed .../OLiver_Gottlob that was wrong
> sorry !

Hi,

	http://home.t-online.de/home/Oliver_Gottlob

seems to work.

Ketil

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