L-R Mailing Lists 1948-1998 Land Rover's 50th Anniversary

Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents


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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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1 "Ian Boddison" [bod.glas25Re: Attachment point
2 "Ian Boddison" [bod.glas17Re: Temporary axel breather
3 "Ian Boddison" [bod.glas12Re: VICKY
4 Alan_Richer@motorcity2.l32Re: Re[2]: OK - show of hands - who's on display on Thursday?
5 Peter Goundry [peterg@ai14Subject: OK - show of hands - who's on display on Thursday?
6 Jarvis 64 [Jarvis64@aol.13Re: Hydraulic Fluid level/Clutch Master
7 "LT J Jackson" [lt_j_jac22Re- Seats
8 Jarvis 64 [Jarvis64@aol.15 Re: Waterproofing
9 garnold@clvm.clarkson.ed7digest
10 Alan_Richer@motorcity2.l23Re: Waterproofing
11 "Peter Monk" [monk@calyp20Steering box
12 Tim Harincar [harincar@C39RE: Station Wagon, Safari Models - std items
13 David Russell [David_R@m32Re: OK - show of hands - who's on display on Thursday?
14 SPYDERS [SPYDERS@aol.com19clack noise
15 Alan_Richer@motorcity2.l25Re: OK - show of hands - who's on display on Thursday?
16 "Faure, Marin" [Marin.Fa71Re: Hydraulic Fluid level/Clutch Master
17 Paul Quin [Paul_Quin@pml17RE: LRO Magazine - Tigers
18 SPYDERS [SPYDERS@aol.com26Dave's leaky reservoir
19 Paul Quin [Paul_Quin@pml12RE: Station Wagon, Safari Models - std items
20 "David and Cynthia Walke9Re: LRO Magazine - Tigers
21 SPYDERS [SPYDERS@aol.com10Hey, it's April 30th in NZ now...
22 kelliott@shells1.intrane7unsubscribe
23 "Peter M. Kaskan" [pmk1129Clack Noise - Me Too!
24 GElam30092 [GElam30092@a14translations
25 GElam30092 [GElam30092@a20RE Thursday
26 Alan_Richer@motorcity2.l17Clacking
27 Rick Grant [rgrant@cadvi23CB Master replacement?
28 dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.o19Jeff Berg fan club
29 Alan_Richer@motorcity2.l18Re: CB Master replacement?
30 Rick Grant [rgrant@cadvi27Re: CB Master replacement?
31 "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Bj=F8rnu25Re.:clack noise
32 Bren Workman [bworkman@a30Rovers for sale
33 lndrvr@ldd.net (BRIAN WI25Re: Station Wagon, Safari Models-std items
34 msullivan@paravant.com (13Tires (tyres)
35 Rick Grant [rgrant@cadvi70Re: Station Wagon, Safari Models-std items
36 Luis Manuel Gutierrez [l7RE: Station Wagon, Safari Models-std items
37 MRogers315 [MRogers315@a10 Re-Waterproofing
38 David Scheidt [david@inf13Re: Re-Waterproofing
39 Matthew James Moore [mjm20Re: Re-Waterproofing
40 Tim Harincar [harincar@C23muddy oval society
41 Easton Trevor [Trevor_Ea13Toronto Birthday Party
42 dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.o34Re: RE Thursday
43 SPYDERS [SPYDERS@aol.com36Re: Muddy Oval
44 SPYDERS [SPYDERS@aol.com23Re: Re: RE Thursday
45 Adrian Redmond [channel662The Great Danish Conflict
46 john cranfield [john.cra21Re: LR kill flags (Was: driving and talking on a cell phone)
47 john cranfield [john.cra39Re: Waterproofing
48 Mohammed Taheri [mrbeans13Disco fording depth
49 SPYDERS [SPYDERS@aol.com38Re: Disco fording depth
50 Eye on WX [EyeonWX@aol.c1650 Years!
51 SPYDERS [SPYDERS@aol.com17Re: Disco fording depth addendum
52 Jarvis 64 [Jarvis64@aol.17 Waterproofing
53 Mohammed Taheri [mrbeans14vibrating windows on disco
54 torque@pacific.net.sg (L27Re: Waterproofing
55 Alessandro Castellana [k9fuel_additive
56 "David and Cynthia Walke9MMO
57 "David and Cynthia Walke14Re: Waterproofing
58 "Ben Brand" [ben_brand@h44Re: Disco fording depth
59 "Ben Brand" [ben_brand@h66Re: Disco fording depth
60 steven.heylen@rug.ac.be 26speedo (FFR)
61 philippe.carchon@rug.ac.18speedo (FFR)
62 torque@pacific.net.sg (L20Re: Waterproofing
63 M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M13Re: The Great Danish Conflict


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From: "Ian Boddison" <bod.glass@easynet.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 23:12:26 +0100
Subject: Re: Attachment point

>starting handle and you'll end up with skinned knuckles!! I put mine on the
>drivers side just inside where the chassis leg joins the bumber.

If you put it on the passenger side then it is very very useful if you want
to manoeuvre an awkward trailer.  Anyone who has ever tried to reverse a
trailer with a LR will know just how annoying it is - either the trailer is
too small so you cannot see it until it has jack-knifed or else you cannot
do anything with it because of the lack of steering lock!

However, turn round and couple the trailer to the front and you can
manoeuvre it so easily because it is at the same end as the steering axle,
you can see it clearly and (if the towball is on the passenger side) you can
see the surface you are pushing it over.  Also it is easier to position it
if you are looking down one side.

Cheers,
Bod.

http://www.glass-mcr.home.ml.org

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From: "Ian Boddison" <bod.glass@easynet.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 23:06:08 +0100
Subject: Re: Temporary axel breather

The later remote breathers are so much superior that they are well worth the
6 quid each.  Incidentally I found that the best place to route the pipes
(so that they are as high as possible) is up the side of the radiator for
the front and into the rear tool locker for the back (on a 109" that is).
They can be fixed with a 'P' clip and rubber that LR use to fit all the
brake pipes and hold them (about) where they should be.

Cheers,
Bod.

http://www.glass-mcr.home.ml.org

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From: "Ian Boddison" <bod.glass@easynet.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 14:23:11 +0100
Subject: Re: VICKY

>The girls mamed her 26 years ago. She is/was fat, underpowered and drew

Now why would they want to mame her???
Was this before or after she got her name???

Bod.

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 07:04:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: OK - show of hands - who's on display on Thursday?

Re: Mud-in-a-can:

Dave "Pit Bull on Thorazine"Bobeck writes:

really, al?
I thought this service was provided by LRNA through subcontracted OVLR
members.
I didn't know it was available in a can. Thought that was reserved for
lemon
pledge dash polish...

Just don't get your cans mixed up!

First off, I do NOT use Pledge on my dashboard - Beeswax is the way to go
for water resistance.

Secondly, I apply mud to my truck the way all good OVLR members do - by
dragging it's butt through the deepest mudhole I can find. Considering
they're doing construction in half of the roads in Chelmsford of late, this
is not a problem...

Mud-in-a-can is saved for poseurs like Jeff "My 88 has more electronics
than a 777" Berg....8*)

               aj"Added another antenna yesterday - 109 looks like a
porcupine!"r

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From: Peter Goundry <peterg@aircast.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 07:56:36 -0400
Subject: Subject: OK - show of hands - who's on display on Thursday?

I got an invited to the Paul Miller dealership in Parsipanny, NJ. They 
have asked me to take my 67 GS109" IIA to put on display. I am taking 
it today which will allow them to "clean" it up (just in time for 
Carlisle next week).

Peter Goundry

67 GS 109" IIA, 73 Lightweight, 97 D90 #127

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From: Jarvis 64 <Jarvis64@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 08:08:41 EDT
Subject: Re:  Hydraulic Fluid level/Clutch Master

David,
My clutch master was leaking fluid all over my clutch pedal about a year ago.
I just used a rebuild kit per the instructions that came with and have had
zero problems since then.  Bled the line @ the slave, too.

Bill Rice
Watertown, NY

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From: "LT J Jackson" <lt_j_jackson@unixlink.uscga.edu>
Date: 29 Apr 1998 08:28:18 -0400
Subject: Re- Seats

> but if you figure out a way to get them to tilt forward
>let me know. I'd love something better than the damn squabs...my back can't
>handle 'em much longer.

>...and I'm too damn cheap to buy Defender seats.

         > ajr

Al:  That'll be the trick.  My aux tank requires me to pull the drivers' seat
base and remove the access cover to add fuel.  I'll probably have a tilting or
quick-release mount fabricated for that side.  If it works, I'll post the
design.

Rgds,

Jeff 

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From: Jarvis 64 <Jarvis64@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 08:38:41 EDT
Subject:  Re: Waterproofing

The dishwashing glove trick will only do part of the trick for me, since my
distro has an integral coil, and therefore doesn't have 4 plug wires and an HT
lead.  It's got 4 plug wires and then about 5 or 6 other ones attached to the
cap, dangling down past the base of the distro.  What do I do about them?

Any thoughts?  Sorry for this borderline non-LR content, folks.

Bill Rice
Watertown, NY

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From: garnold@clvm.clarkson.edu (Guy Arnold)
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 08:43:56 -0500
Subject: digest

subscribe

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 08:41:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Waterproofing

Re: Waterproofing a GM engine dizzy:

HEI, right?

The glove trick would still work, but sounds to me like you'd have to
gather the bottom and tie it off. There's no way you'll get it completely
watertight with this gimmick, but unless you're planning on going with the
Taylor Industries' Sea-Rover conversion, seems to me like it shouldn't be
too bad.

The other thing to do might be to talk to your local GM dealer - I have
little doubt that there's an aftermarket waterproofing kit of some sort
available for this engine/distributor. Seems to me the GM 4 got used in all
soets of stationary poer/marine/industrial uses where it might get wet -
there might be something there for you.

               ajr

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From: "Peter Monk" <monk@calypso.math.udel.edu>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 09:13:27 -0400
Subject: Steering box

Hi
My steering box (IIa 88) is leaking through the rocker arm oil seal.
Can the oil seal be replaced with the steering box still on the car?  
Or failing that, can I replace it without dismantling the 
steering box?  Any suggestions?
Thanks
Peter

-- 
Address: Department of Mathematical Sciences  | Phone: 302-831-1873
         University of Delaware               | FAX  : 302-831-4511
         Newark, DE 19716 
         USA
WWW    : http://www.math.udel.edu/~monk

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From: Tim Harincar <harincar@Camworks.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 08:18:09 -0500
Subject: RE: Station Wagon, Safari Models - std items

Ok, I think I may be on to something else, at least in regards to IIa
88's. A friend has a 68 or 69 IIa 88, badged as a SW (I know that
nowadays the badge really means little). Anyhow, his is a 244 serno, not
318. The only options his has are sliding rear windows, ambulance door,
tropical roof (not sure about the roof vents, I think not) and inside
trim (black, but not firewall/tunnel insulation). He doesn't have any
reason at this point to think that this was not it's original
configuration.

I'm wondering if certain 244s with this somewhat smaller set of options
were exported badged as SWs, mostly due to the trim & rear door style.

I'd like to hear for anyone who has a IIa 88 SW with a 244 or 318 serno
as what options are present and that you think were original equip.
Maybe then we can sort this out a little bit (but knowing the way they
built cars back then, likely not...)

BTW, my 88 is going to be on display Thursday at the new Rover Centre
here in Minneapolis. They are going to have 4 series trucks, I believe.
One of the guys that works there came to the local club meeting and
invited everyone out to the shindig. Seems like they are trying to get
in with the Series folk, a lot more than the old dealership did. 

I'm *cleaning* mine, yes, scrubbing it down and (god help me) even
putting some polish on it. It *is* a party, after all.

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@camworks.com
Camworks, St. Paul, MN
http://www.camworks.com
Internet Solutions that Power Business 

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From: David Russell <David_R@mindspring.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 11:13:18 -0400
Subject: Re:  OK - show of hands - who's on display on Thursday?

My 109" will be playing second fiddle to Land Rover Rockville's 1972 SIII,
which is for sale.

Now, am I the _only_ person who has had this problem?

When I fill up my fluid resevoir, I have a slow leak of hydraulic fluid
down the clutch pedal onto my shoe and then the floorboard.

This continues until the entire resevoir level drops to about 1/3 or 1/4
full. At this point, the leakage appears to _stop_.

Is this indicative of the need for a simple overhaul or is there some other
problem?

Does anyone have a suggestion for a commonly available tube (as described
in the repair manual) to be used when clearing the clutch hydraulics after
an overhaul?

TIA

David Russell
1997 Discovey SD 5-speed
90% of the pieces needed for a 1969 SIIA "Bugeye" 88" SW Petrol
1965+/- SIIA 109" P/U Diesel, "Loo" (Thanks DaveB)
1977 Toyota FJ40 Land Cruiser (sort of)
http://www.mindspring.com/~david_r

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From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 11:26:06 EDT
Subject: clack noise

when I'm driving slowly, or coasting into a parking space, and tap the brakes
suddenly, I get a clak noise from down below, front-axle area. Is it just
drivetrain slack being taken up suddenly (it sounds like the noise that
happens when people driving for the first time in low range get behind the
throttle and the car bounces front and back on the diffs)? Anyway, I'm going
to jack up the front end and play with the wheels a little to see if I can get
a feel for it.

It's about time I greased the hub bearings anyway. Manual says to use a
minimum of 8.5 ounces per bearing...

pat
93  110

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 11:25:59 -0400
Subject: Re: OK - show of hands - who's on display on Thursday?

Re: Playing second fiddle:

Mr. Churchill play second fiddle to no Rover - coil, leaf or 2-wheeled....

Re: Brake fluid follies:

My thought here is that you've got a bad reservoir - seems like there's a
pinhole in it from rust, or you've got a port fitting leak.

Take the silly thing off the car and wash it, then fill it with water and
hold your fingers over the outlets. Apply air pressure to the top (read:
blow into it), and see where the water leaks out.

I'll lay long odds that the aluminum sealing washers on one of the ports
have disintegrated, giving a leak. If this is the case, you can disassemble
the reservoir and replace the washers (I used copper ones when I did), or
simply replace it with the plastic equivalent.

          ajr

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 08:29:11 -0700
Subject: Re: Hydraulic Fluid level/Clutch Master

From: David Russell <David_R@mindspring.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 19:34:24 -0400
Subject: Hydraulic Fluid level/Clutch Master

>When I fill up my fluid reservoir, I have a slow leak of hydraulic
fluid
down the clutch pedal onto my shoe and then the floorboard. This
continues
until the entire reservoir level drops to about 1/3 or 1/4 full. At this
point, the leakage appears to stop.

>Is this indicative of the need for a simple overhaul or is there some
other
problem?

The following is based on my experience with my Series III; I don't know
if the master cylinder for the II/IIa is the same. The cause of your
problem could be a bad seal in the master cylinder or a crack in the
master cylinder/reservoir casting.  Because the reservoir sits at an
angle, there will always be some fluid at the bottom even with a bad
leak, so this could be what's making it appear to be 1/4 full.  The
easiest thing to do in my opinion is simply to replace the entire master
cylinder.  They aren't that expensive, and I've found that rebuilding
hydraulic cylinders, especially when they're made fairly crudely like
the ones used on the Land Rover, can be a rather iffy proposition.
Sometimes a rebuild works, sometimes a rebuild only works for awhile,
and sometimes a rebuild still leaks even with all-new seals.  It all
depends on how the bore has worn during use.  Even if it's nice and
smooth, they can wear unevenly just enough to keep a new seal from
sealing properly.

I would strongly advise that you also replace (or rebuild) the clutch
slave cylinder at the same time.  A new, tight master cylinder will
generate more pressure when you use the clutch, so if your slave
cylinder has been in there awhile, its seals will blow out pretty
quickly under the higher pressure.  I learned this the hard way back in
1977 on my Series III.  I've worked a bit on aircraft systems and the
first rule of hydraulics is replace (or rebuild) everything downstream
of the component you're replacing or rebuilding.  If you don't it's a
pretty sure bet that the downstream seals will soon fail.

The master cylinder is easy to replace once you get to it.  In a
left-hand-drive Land Rover, the clutch master cylinder is under the
left-hand wing (fender).  The procedure in the manual calls for first
removing the wing.  I did this twice, and it's a time-consuming process,
especially if the fasteners have rusted or are caked solid with dirt.
My solution was to fit a hinged access panel to the top of the wing over
the clutch master cylinder.  I used an aluminum aircraft hinge at the
front edge of the panel and fitted a flush-mount, push-to-open snap
catch from the engine cowl of a Citabria to the trailing edge.  The
panel itself is flush to the top surface of the wing.  When the hood
(bonnet) is opened all the way back to the windshield, I just push the
button and the panel hinges open to reveal the master cylinder
underneath.  Removing and replacing the cylinder assembly is quite easy
after that, although I do have to twist my hand around a bit to get on
one or two of the bolts.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 08:27:03 -0700
Subject: RE: LRO Magazine - Tigers

I have a running order with a local book store for both Landy magazines.
They put one aside and give me a call when they come in.  Generally both
arrive around the 12th or 13th of the Month of issue.  A full 40 days
after they hit the shelves in Britain!

Wow, a cherry red Sunbeam Tiger just rolled up to my office window as I
am typing this!  We've just had a run of nice hot weather here in
Victoria and ALL the old British cars are coming out to play.

Paul Quin
Victoria, BC  Canada

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From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 11:34:06 EDT
Subject: Dave's leaky reservoir

In a message dated 4/29/98 11:17:45 AM, you wrote:

>When I fill up my fluid resevoir, I have a slow leak of hydraulic fluid
>down the clutch pedal onto my shoe and then the floorboard.

>This continues until the entire resevoir level drops to about 1/3 or 1/4
>full. At this point, the leakage appears to _stop_.

Does it leak even before you push the pedal down? If it leaks out of the sytem
without any (pedal) pressure, I would think there's a hole in the system.
Maybe where the line comes up from the slave clinder and gets attached to the
master/reservoir unit. If you have the early one, check the line from the
master to the rubber piece connecting it to the reservoir. If it is the late
one that has the reservoir built in, maybe it is just a loose fitting or
there's some grit in the threads allowing fluid to seep out.

Alternatively, a wearing a wellie on your left foot only may keep your socks
dry ;-)

pat.

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 08:40:23 -0700
Subject: RE: Station Wagon, Safari Models - std items

For comparison, My friends 1969 88 suffix G (with birth certificate) has
sliding rear windows, a station wagon back door, full interior trim,
deluxe heater, but no tropical roof or alpine windows, and does _not_
have the Station Wagon name plate.  i.e. just a normal Land Rover.

Paul in Victoria

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From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 08:06:55 -0700
Subject: Re: LRO Magazine - Tigers

That is one of the few dream cars I have left - I love the Tiger.
Did you know that that was Maxwell Smarts car?
David

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From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 11:49:13 EDT
Subject: Hey, it's April 30th in NZ now...

Noon, Eastern Time, USA Wednesday 4/29:

I just had a thought (rare, round these parts). Land Rovers in NZ are all
smiling already... It is already April 30 for them!

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From: kelliott@shells1.intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 11:56:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: unsubscribe

Unsubscribe LRO

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 12:01:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Clack Noise - Me Too!

I've recently noticed a similar noise in the same situation you mention
Pat, in my 1965 IIA.  But mine is a light clack clack clack clack clack
clack clack  (about 6 or 7 of 'em) at the end of heavy breaking. I can feel
it through the break pedal. It dosen't happen all the time - but  it seems
to happen sometimes  while I'm turning and slowing. I think it's frequency
is too high to be coming from the breaks, because by the time it happens
the wheels are turning pretty slow.  I know I have a pair of slightly work
top kingpins - and my springs are getting pretty flat. Maybe because of the
worn springs and breaking the rover is leaning more forward than normal -
and something is catching. (What's this about packing bearings with grease
- is this something I should do regularly? What does blackish swivel ball
housing oil mean - hope it's not expensive.)

Cheers - Peter

-----------------------
Peter M. Kaskan
Uris Hall 231
Dept. Of Psychology
Cornell University
607-255-3382
pmk11@cornell.edu
-----------------------

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From: GElam30092 <GElam30092@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 12:18:47 EDT
Subject: translations

<<Geländewagen -> Jeep>>

Taken one step further, I found that Jeep means Just Empty Every Pocket.....

Not that that term doesn't necessarily point towards Land Rovers too!

Gerry Elam
PHX AZ

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From: GElam30092 <GElam30092@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 12:18:49 EDT
Subject: RE Thursday

<<I'm just curious - who of the US users got invited to an LR dealership for
the 50th anniversary party on Thursday>>

I did but only because we own two Discoverys in addition to the the Series
vehicles.  There are two dealerships here.  The one in Phoenix hasn't a clue
from what I can tell but the folks in Scottsdale are top-drawer.

I'll be there in the SIII (Tigger) and with any luck, TeriAnn Wakeman will be
there in her Dormie assuming the LR gods are good to her and she survives the
B2B trip.

Later...
Gerry Elam
PHX AZ

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 12:19:21 -0400
Subject: Clacking

Were these my vehicles, I have to say that I'd go for checking the wheel
bearings and the propshaft U-joints.

Clacking with the brakes applied could be a U-joint that's shifting, or a
wheel bearing that's loose/worn and shifting position when the brakes go
on.

As both the folks with this problem are running nrewish vehicles - your
guess is as good as mine. Middle diff, maybe?

                    ajr

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From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 10:25:44 -0600
Subject: CB Master replacement?

Is it possible to install the CV type of master cylinder in a Sll in place
of the existing CB master?  Would it be a straight forward swap?

The reason I ask is that all this recent talk here about master cylinders is
sooner or later going to come home to roost for me since the m/c is the only
thing I haven't replaced in the hydraulic system and I can see the
inevitable.  But I no longer want the extreme hassle of bleeding a CB m/c
and I'd rather have the luxury of something designed with logic.

			Rick Grant

			1959, SII   "VORIZO"  

rgrant@cadvision.com	
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
Cobra Media Communications.  Calgary, Canada
Aboriginal and International Relief Issues

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From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 98 11:50:51 EST
Subject: Jeff Berg fan club

Jeff Berg wrote:

 >To answer the unasked question--Yes, cards and letters from English school 
 >girls are pouring in. 
 
 followed by:
 
  >>Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

"lone palm", eh? Too bad all those school girls are across the pond!

later
DaveB

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 12:28:32 -0400
Subject: Re: CB Master replacement?

Re: CB vs CB brake masters:

Only thing I'd see to worry about is the ability of a CV to put out enough
fluid. I know the later ones were so equipped, but I wonder if there were
changes in the brake cylinder sizes.

Just bleed the CB on the bench, plug the ports, install and hook up. This
way you can bleed the doggone thing flat...

Worked on my 109.

               ajr

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From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 10:43:46 -0600
Subject: Re: CB Master replacement?

At 12:28 PM 29/04/98 -0400, Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com, wrote

>Just bleed the CB on the bench, plug the ports, install and hook up. This
>way you can bleed the doggone thing flat...

Yeah that works but it sure is a time consuming operation.  The only
alternative seems to be raising the vehicle so high that it becomes a
downright dangerous operation.

But I've been thinking about Marin's smart idea of putting in an a/c type
access hatch.  At least one could save a huge amount of time not having to
remove the wing.  But I'm really leery about going out to the airport in
hunt of some dzus fastners because I just know I'll cave in again and blow a
few hundred dollars on some flight time.  It's a damned drug that flying thing.

                                                         Rick Grant

Cobra Media Communications, Calgary Canada
Aboriginal and International Relief Issues
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
rgrant@cadvision.com

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From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Bj=F8rnung_Jensen?=" <bjjen13b@online.no>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 19:25:19 +0200
Subject: Re.:clack noise

>when I'm driving slowly, or coasting into a parking space, and tap the
brakes
>suddenly, I get a clak noise from down below, front-axle area. Is it just
>drivetrain slack being taken up suddenly (it sounds like the noise that
>happens when people driving for the first time in low range get behind the
>throttle and the car bounces front and back on the diffs)? Anyway, I'm
going
>to jack up the front end and play with the wheels a little to see if I can
get
>a feel for it.

Could it be the brake pads shifting slightly? This has happened to my Range
Rover and was mentioned by James Taylor in LROI some months ago. Under heavy
braking it is not noticed, but slight (almost none) application will bring
the pads around together with the disc. With some pads there is enough
movement to allow a pronounced clack when they stop.

Bjørnung Jensen
Norway

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From: Bren Workman <bworkman@alaska.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 09:28:11 -0700
Subject: Rovers for sale

Hi, folks,
  My wife bought me the May issue of Truck, Race, Cycle and Rec.
magazine yesterday.  There are two very interesting Rovers for sale:

1963 IIA Forward Control Carmical Conversion Camper, updated electrical,
runs good, body good, 1 ton, 4x4, 18,000 (!), $6500 OBO. (360)297-5043
KINGSTON, WA.   (Looks pretty darm good by picture.  Very interesting
conversion)

1995 D-90.  29,000 miles, minor body work damage, runs/drives, (looks
like left fender toast, factory bull bar toast, right fender looks good,
bonnet looks good, left door?)  But...$13,500!  Numero Uno Auto Sales,
Bronx, New York, (718)589-0469.

  Ah, if I was only in New York...
  Take care, and Happy Anniversary Rovering!

Bren Workman
Ft. Wainwright, AK 
'72 88"  "Tilly"
'72 88"  "'Leper' the parts vehicle"
'65 109" SW  "Baldwin"  Resting for his Alaska to Georgia
cross-continental Land Rover Anniversary pilgramage: A wife, a daughter,
three fat cats, a German Sheapard named "Rover", and me, as the idiot

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From: lndrvr@ldd.net (BRIAN WILLOUGHBY)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 12:25:32 -0500
Subject: Re:  Station Wagon, Safari Models-std items

For what it's worth, or to add to the confusion, I've been told by several
reliable sources that 88" S.W.s were equipped with Deluxe Undished Bonnets
only.  Accordingly, if you wanted a spare tyre carrier, this was installed
by the dealer on the vehicle.  Old photos seem to confirm this:  press
photos almost always show early 88" S.W.s with NO spare tyre on  the bonnet
(only on the rear door); likewise, unless the Deluxe Dished Bonnet was been
added after the fact, all of those I have seen which are equipped with a
bonnet mount show the tyre and wheel resting atop the bonnet and not in a
depression pressed into the bonnet.  I was told that the dished bonnets
were available only on 109" S.W.s.  I don't know that this information is
100% correct for all models, though I was told that this was the way it was
for 1958-61 Series IIs.  Maybe things changed for the later models.  Also,
Series II 88" S.W.s were not necessarily equipped with steps except at the
rear.  Apparently the front steps were another dealer installed option.  If
any of this is in error, I am open to corrections.  This is merely a
collection of S.W. facts that have been relayed to me over the years.

Brian
1960 Series II 88" S.W.

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From: msullivan@paravant.com (Mark Sullivan)
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 13:56:59 -0400
Subject: Tires (tyres)

Does anybody have any experience with Futura tires as sold in P*p B*ys. They
look like a no name brand tire that is very, very similar to some of the
name brands. Their prices are good through!

Mark Sullivan
Senior Engineer
Paravant Computer Systems, Inc.

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From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 12:17:40 -0600
Subject: Re:  Station Wagon, Safari Models-std items

At 12:25 PM 29/04/98 -0500, BRIAN WILLOUGHBY, wrote
>For what it's worth, or to add to the confusion, I've been told by several
>reliable sources that 88" S.W.s were equipped with Deluxe Undished Bonnets
>only. 

I've got a reprint of the 1960 Instruction Manual for Series l & ll.  There
are several pages in the back detailing optional equipment, including the
heater as optional.

Under Spare Wheel Carrier it says. . . . 

     "When it is desired to utilise the entire body space, an alternative
carrier for the      spare wheel can be mounted on the bonnet panel.  It
comprises a central mounting      plate, with four rubber support blocks
positioned under the tyre wall to ensure even      weight distribution.  A
special dished bonnet top panel is required with the 109 and      88 de luxe
models."

Nowhere is de luxe defined.

For what it is worth, my 1959 Sll was shipped with a straight bonnet and
wheel carrier.

On the subject of Tropical and Station Wagon the difference seems to have
been the addition of rear bench seats to make it a 7 seater (hah!) and some
interior trim.

I'm basing this guess on the two entries in the optional equipment section
describing the two.  Here are the scanned sections in question.

      "Tropical Rood Panels for Hard Top and Cab

      For use in hot climates a tropical roof panel can be supplied for the
Hard Top or       Cab.  This is an additional panel fitted to the roof.  The
air pocket so formed       between the two panels acts as an insulator
against the sun's rays.

        Station Wagon

     The 88 Station Wagon will accomodate seven people (oh sure), three in
the front      and four facing inwards on the folding seats filled to the
rear wheel-arch boxes.

     The ten seater 109 Station Wagon provides accomodation for three people
in the      front seat, three on the back seat and four facing inwards on
the seats fitted to the      rear wheel-arch boxes.  Both models have the
side doors; toe boards and scuttle      trimmed, with ribbed rubber matting
on the floor.  All doors can be locked and the      sliding windows are also
fitted with locking attachments."

The illustration for the Station Wagon shows alpine windows whereas the Hard
Top and Tropical Roof Panel illustrations don't.

But I wonder whether there really was anything as standard.  It almost seems
as if customers could add or remove items as they wished when ordering.

			Rick Grant

			1959, SII   "VORIZO"  

rgrant@cadvision.com	
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
Cobra Media Communications.  Calgary, Canada
Aboriginal and International Relief Issues

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[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- 
=_NextPart_000_01BD736B.2E912140" ]
From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 12:34:35 -0500
Subject: RE: Station Wagon, Safari Models-std items

[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: application/ms-tnef ]

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From: MRogers315 <MRogers315@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 14:59:16 EDT
Subject:  Re-Waterproofing

Ok so where do I fing 9 fingered gloves then.

Mike Rogers
Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid (V8)

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 14:34:18 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Re-Waterproofing

On Wed, 29 Apr 1998, MRogers315 wrote:

> Ok so where do I fing 9 fingered gloves then.

That's why it is supposed t ohave a four-cylinder engine, of course.

David

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From: Matthew James Moore <mjm@unr.edu>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 12:40:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Re-Waterproofing

Mike,

You can find 9 fingered gloves at any store near the Nevada test site.
(or perhaps Hanford would be closer to those in the Seattle area) ;)

Matt "living in Reno so my DNA hasn't changed" Moore
SerIII 88' Santana
 

On Wed, 29 Apr 1998, MRogers315 wrote:

> Ok so where do I fing 9 fingered gloves then.
> Mike Rogers
> Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid (V8)

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From: Tim Harincar <harincar@Camworks.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 15:51:02 -0500
Subject: muddy oval society

So, I noticed this "restricted" part of the LR web site today. Have to
enter a VIN to get in. Of course, the damn thing doesn't take series
serial numbers (Oh, I could hack it easily, but what's the point). 

Question is, does one want to be a member of this that is a series
owner? Do we get free stuff? Even flyers in the mail? Free drinks?
What's behind the magic door, people. Fess up. Or is this strictly for
new purchasers of late model coilers? I'll push 'em to make the site
take series serno's if there is something interesting...

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@camworks.com
Camworks, St. Paul, MN
http://www.camworks.com
Internet Solutions that Power Business 

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From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 17:01:00 -0400
Subject: Toronto Birthday Party

Just a reminder to Toronto area LROs that our officially sponsored birthday
party starts 8:00pm at the Irish Rover, 2 Villiers Street. We're expecting a
live TV spot prior to the party so if you want you and your Landie to become
stars stop by before 6:00pm.
Door prizes from LRCda and Atlantic British, Ginormous cake by LRCda, Music
by Swinish Multitude (Celtic music with an attitude)  courtesy of LRCda.
See you all there.

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From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 98 16:25:59 EST
Subject: Re: RE Thursday

<<I'm just curious - who of the US users got invited to an LR dealership for 
the 50th anniversary party on Thursday>>

I didn't becuase last time we were there (for the Grand Opening) we drank all 
the booze and then went "treading deeply" in their back yard. This after one of 
the salesmen encouraged me to do same with him in the passenger seat only 3 
days before. Frankly they (LR Alexandria) can have their little party. The 
celebration of the 50th has been nothing but an opportunity for LRNA and Land 
Rover to re-exploit NA Series LR owners who they shamelssly abandoned for 20 
odd years. Now that there is a financial incentive, suddenly we are important. 
When I was at the opening of LR alexandria, one of the lot boys had the balls 
to tell me not to park my Rover out front since they were "trying to SELL CARS 
here". I gave him what for and left it where it was. I was on my way home from 
NY a few weeks ago, and stopped by the LR centre on rt 206 in NJ. There was a 
white IIa perched up on their rock formation with a warantee sticker in the 
window. Closer inpsection revealed that under the paint job there was one VERY 
rotten chassis. Never did call to see what they were asking. The current 
relationship between LRNA and NA Series owners is one that will disintegrate 
after the 50th. I understand that there are exceptions to the rule. Kudos to 
them, and o the rest of LRNA and this sudden "interest" in including Series 
owners...I say to hell wit' em.

but if I'm in the neighborhood maybe I'll stop by and drip some 90 wt on their 
lot...
 
later
Dave "terrier" B.
...the woods are lovely, dark and deep...

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From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 17:16:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Muddy Oval

<A HREF="http://best4x4.landrover.com/?owners/owners.html">The Muddy Oval page
is here</A> --> http://best4x4.landrover.com/?owners/owners.html

Basically, it has two things behind the VINdoor: A description of *The Lodge*
and a description of the dealer 50th celebrations. That's it. It says to check
back regularly for owners' inside info type of stuff. sheesh, not even a free
sticker.

Here's what it said about the LRNA dealers' 50th:

Thursday, April 30, 1998 
April 30th is Land Rover's 50th Anniversary, and you've been invited to 
our party! Nearly every Land Rover Retailer is hosting a 50th 
Anniversary celebration on Thursday evening, April 30th, and we'd love 
you to join us. Here's what's going on: 

•Each participating Retailer will give away one adventure vacation to 
the Land Rover Lodge in the Colorado Rockies! (You must be present to 
win.) 
•One lucky guest nationwide will win a vintage Land Rover. 
•All guests will receive a commemorative vehicle badge. 
•There will be fun giveaways for children. 
•Light refreshments will be served. 

Come help us celebrate in fitting Land Rover style! 

Join Our Celebration!
For more information, please contact your local Land Rover Retailer.

 

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From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 17:31:26 EDT
Subject: Re:  Re: RE Thursday

In a message dated 4/29/98 5:20:15 PM, "terrier" wrote:

>but if I'm in the neighborhood maybe I'll stop by and drip some 90 wt on
their
>lot...

I say rig a few quart bottles with old engine oil in them under the front
wings, and after you're suitably parked, get out the old ice-pick. Over the
course of the party, you'll have one leaky rover.

As you drive away, casually ask what their procedure is for covering series
warranties!

Sully up that entry foyer! I like to drop mud when I close the door at the
dealerships...

pat.

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 23:59:38 +0200
Subject: The Great Danish Conflict

Well here's the lastest on the great danish conflict - nothing to do
with an argument about pastry - no Denmark has battened down the
hatches, wonud the clocks back to the 70's, and gone on strike.

Whilst my 88" is in pieces, awaiting the services of several craftsmen
before I can reassemble it, Denmark is closed for the weekend - or month
- last one out turn off the lights!

No seriously folks, the major trade unions and the major employers
organisations have reached absolute stalemate in their negotiations,
resulting in a general strike.

If you thought democracies has evolved beyond the stage of collective
ransom, then think again. Judging by the Danish media, you would think
that this is some sort of natural catastrophe, the coming of which will
bond the people of this peninsula and its islands together - like
sleeping in the London underground did for us brits in the second world
war.

We have queues at the petrol stations - for petrol which isn't there. We
have queues at the shops for food which isn't there, and we have chaos
all over. The media revell in the entire circus atmosphere of it all -
its crazy - you would actually think this is a natural disaster, and not
something which we had brought upon ourselves. Talk about jingoism.

It's a crazy argument anyway - the employers want to remain competitive
- which in denmark usually means having to make things better than the
rest of Europe, becuase with our living standards and basic rate of 54%
tax, it-s nigh impossible to make things cheaper than everyone else can.

The unions want an extra weeks holiday - making a total of 6, plus the
public holidays.

God knows where it will all end - maybe a 20 hour working week for 40
hours wages, 51 weeks holiday, and 12 years maternity leave for fathers.

If everyone had a Land Rover - would it come to this - don't ask me why,
but I doubt it.

I love Denmark, but at times it's great to be a foreigner here - now
about that 88"....

That's my 4 cylinders worth...

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 19:59:43 -0300
Subject: Re: LR kill flags (Was: driving and talking on a cell phone)

Benjamin Smith wrote:
> Gerry Elam wrote:
> > LR Content:  Saw Ben Smith's Dora this last weekend on the Mendo.  If you're
> > ever in an accident, you can always paint the flag of the car's origin on 
the
> > side like Ben did!  I enjoyed seeing that!!!!
>         Yup Dora got a kill and took out a Honda Civic.  Dora drove away
> relatively undamaged.  The Honda needed a flatbed and was totaled.  (The
> rear X-member ripped him open like a can opener.)  So I painted a small
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
>         I also had "Dora" written on the front left wing between the
> wheel and the firewall.
  You'll kamakazi Toyotas coming at you chanting Dora Dora Dora!
   (see 80s movie Tora Tora Tora )
      John and Muddy

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 20:15:30 -0300
Subject: Re: Waterproofing

Brett Storey wrote:
> Here in Toronto using a household rubber cleaning glove is a popular trick 
that
> works very well protecting the distributor from water while wading. Just clip 
a
> small hole in the tip of each finger and feed the plug wires through. A dab of
> silicone and a small tie wrap will effectively seal the hole back up and the 
glove
> is long enough that it will extend way down to the bottom of the distributor
> providing excellent waterproofing. I take the second glove and fit it over 
the coil
> for extra protection.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> We have been using this method for years now and it has proved invaluable on 
our
> many forays into Lake Ontario out at Picton. Check out our antics in the 
water for
Of course if your name is Tolefson it take more than a rubber glove for
the water proofing that you need!!! 
  John and Muddy

proof at
> http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Rapids/6053/wet.htm
> Brett
> Matthew James Moore wrote:
>         I've heard that a latex surgeons glove (placed over the dist. with
> the wires sticking out small holes in each finger) works well to keep the
> providing excellent waterproofing. I take the second glove and fit it over 
the coil
> for extra protection.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)]
> > Just need a bit of advice on waterproofing my distro and plug wires.
> They're

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From: Mohammed Taheri <mrbeans@bellsouth.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 20:42:35 -0400
Subject: Disco fording depth

Hi everyone, in about 2 weeks, I'm going to take my Disco for its first
off-road adventure, should I get skid plates first?  Also, does anyone
know of a safe fording depth, because I bought it used and it doesn't
have a booklet, thanks!

Mohammed Taheri
'95 Discovery

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From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 21:25:17 EDT
Subject: Re:  Disco fording depth

In a message dated 4/29/98 8:47:31 PM, you wrote:

>Hi everyone, in about 2 weeks, I'm going to take my Disco for its first
>off-road adventure, should I get skid plates first?  Also, does anyone
>know of a safe fording depth, because I bought it used and it doesn't
>have a booklet, thanks!

You shouldn't *need* skid plates, but then again, you may be going to
Tellico... Just be prepared to go home without runningboard rubber trim, maybe
a bumper endcap or two, and a slightly redesigned "airdam". That's just my
take on what happens to showroom-stock discos when they follow Series or D LRs
around. What kind of vehicles are you going out with? They ought to give you a
pretty good idea of what kind of protection is needed. ie: does that SIIa
infront have full body armor, if not, chances are, you'll be ok too. IMHO, the
Discos suffer not from a lack of skid plates and rock sliders, but from too
much stylistic plastic tacked on below the waistline. Discos really look
killer with tall trac-edges and steep approach bumpers. That'll make it stand
out at the traffic light ;-)

Fording water is another matter. If the creek is a long one, I wouldn't
suggest anything higher than just above the bottom edge of the door. If you
get stuck, water seeps in and the under seat (if you have one) CD changer gets
fried. If it is still deeper, the ECU will start to sizzle. If it is just a
quick dunk before exiting the water, top of the wheel ought to be tops, but
that demands a lot of familiarity with the vehicle and the situation. 

There's bound to be a ton of info amongst the coilers if you need more info.

Good luck, and remember to keep the a/c *on*, it lets you keep the windows up,
and the mud out :-0.

pat.

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From: Eye on WX <EyeonWX@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 21:28:30 EDT
Subject: 50 Years!

Happy Annivarsary Land Rover!!! Visit Alex Cheek's Land Rover Web for pictures
and news looking back over the last 50 years of the Best 4x4xFar! Thursday I'm
wearing full Land Rover Gear--shirt, belt, pin, hat, socks, etc, etc, etc...

Rover on!
Alex Cheek

***
HTTP://MEMBERS.AOL.COM/EYEONWX/ROVERON.HTML
***

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From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 21:28:32 EDT
Subject: Re:  Disco fording depth addendum

In a message dated 4/29/98 8:47:31 PM, you wrote:

>Hi everyone, in about 2 weeks, I'm going to take my Disco for its first
>off-road adventure, should I get skid plates first?  Also, does anyone
>know of a safe fording depth, because I bought it used and it doesn't
>have a booklet, thanks!

Disregard previous message. I didn't see it was going to be the car's *first
time* off road: Just above windowline is a safe place to start worrying about
the water being too deep, right guys? Like in the Camel Trophy... yeah, just
like the Camel Trophy!

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From: Jarvis 64 <Jarvis64@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 22:12:39 EDT
Subject:  Waterproofing

The light dawns . . . and I realize that my vacuum advance sticks right out
the side of my distro, where the cap and the base meet.  This throws another
wrench in the plan.  But maybe not . . . Since I have no HT lead, I can use
the thumb for the Vacuum Advance . . .   Wow, I'm going to need Andre the
Giant's dishwashing glove.

Never mind,

Bill Rice
64 109 SW--Mrs. Merdle
Watertown, NY 

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From: Mohammed Taheri <mrbeans@bellsouth.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 22:59:38 -0400
Subject: vibrating windows on disco

Hi everyone, on my '95 Disco, when I leave the windows down about 4
inches (101.6 mm), there is a very noticeable vibration of the glass
going on from side to side when I'm driving at pretty much any speed,
it's the same on all four windows.  Is this normal?  Is there something
that I can "stick down there" to minimize this vibration?  Thanks!

Mohammed Taheri
'95 Discovery

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From: torque@pacific.net.sg (Lawrence Lee)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 11:06:28 +0800
Subject: Re: Waterproofing

>Just need a bit of advice on waterproofing my distro and plug wires.
Don't know about the HT wires, but the technical editor of the  auto
magazine I work for does not advise completely sealing the distributor
(said something about points and needing to breathe.

My mod for fording are as follows:

        * ensure cap is in good shape

        * length of rubber hose (windshield washer type) attached
        to the distributor thru a hole drilled thru the cap.

        * attach a Japanese made aquarium air pump running
        on 3V DC (pump only cost S$ 5.00)

Remember to turn on the pump before getting in the water. Never had the
engine stall on me because of dampness. But perhaps the snorkel helped.

Cheers

Lawrence Lee,

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From: Alessandro Castellana <kastel@tor.it>
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 05:20:40 +0200
Subject: fuel_additive

 I have a 69SIIA 88 ser# 27105726C and a78SIII 88  ser#90920883A
Do you know fuel_additive to reduce the smoke?
Regards

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From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 21:50:01 -0700
Subject: MMO

I heard that Marvels Mystery Oil reduces diesel smoking.

David

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From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 21:52:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Waterproofing

That is a great idea, positive air flow.  What else have you done to make
yours a deep water wader?

Cheers
David
Wahoo Adventures - Stay at Home Father
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
Ural Motorcycle - S/V KALAKALA, Ingrid 38, ketch

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From: "Ben Brand" <ben_brand@hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 23:11:14 PDT
Subject: Re: Disco fording depth

Mohammed,

I have a 94 disco and have forded rivers over headlight high quite 
happily. Do you have petrol or diesel...?
I was told, from a manager of a landrover dealer who is very"into" his 
4wd'ing, the disco has a design feature to sfae guard it against water 
too deep. To quote this person, so please don't flame me for this, the 
pertol disco has been designed with the distributer mounted behind the 
fan and lower than the air intake. They have designed it in such a way 
that should you attempt to ford a river too deep, water will hit the 
distributer (which has been designed to run rather hot) and cause 
condensation to form inside the dizzy. This will stall your vehicle.
I have had this happen to me and it really works. Car stopped dead. 
River was about knee deep, but I was being over enthusiastic...I have 
this on video cause it is rather embarrasing. A quick squirt if wd40 and 
I was off again. TRAP FOR YOUNG PLAYERS. If you car does stall in the 
river because it is too deep....remember that the cavity of air under 
your bonnet will cease when you stop you car. Thus if you then try and 
crank it you will get a lungfull of water....and that really hurts. A 
friend of mine has just got his forerunner back $7,000 later, after 
sucking in a lungful of water.
The book, I believe, specifies a max depth of 50cm, but driven carefully 
and properly, will negotiate deeper than that by far.

Regards,
Ben Brand.
ben_brand@hotmail.com

>Hi everyone, in about 2 weeks, I'm going to take my Disco for its first
>off-road adventure, should I get skid plates first?  Also, does anyone
>know of a safe fording depth, because I bought it used and it doesn't
>have a booklet, thanks!
>Mohammed Taheri
>'95 Discovery
>  ** 'lro' mailing list information from 

'majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net'
>Hi everyone, in about 2 weeks, I'm going to take my Disco for its first

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From: "Ben Brand" <ben_brand@hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 23:15:49 PDT
Subject: Re: Disco fording depth

Just one note about this post....

if you are worried about a river crossing...leave the windows down.
If you sink it/stall it in a river deeper than the bottom of the doors 
and have no power (to wind down the window) last thing you want to do is 
open the door....believe me   :)

Regs,
Ben Brand.

>In a message dated 4/29/98 8:47:31 PM, you wrote:
>>Hi everyone, in about 2 weeks, I'm going to take my Disco for its 

first
>>off-road adventure, should I get skid plates first?  Also, does anyone
>>know of a safe fording depth, because I bought it used and it doesn't
>>have a booklet, thanks!
>You shouldn't *need* skid plates, but then again, you may be going to
>Tellico... Just be prepared to go home without runningboard rubber 
trim, maybe
>a bumper endcap or two, and a slightly redesigned "airdam". That's just 
my
>take on what happens to showroom-stock discos when they follow Series 
or D LRs
>around. What kind of vehicles are you going out with? They ought to 
give you a
>pretty good idea of what kind of protection is needed. ie: does that 
SIIa
>infront have full body armor, if not, chances are, you'll be ok too. 
IMHO, the
>Discos suffer not from a lack of skid plates and rock sliders, but from 
too
>much stylistic plastic tacked on below the waistline. Discos really 
look
>killer with tall trac-edges and steep approach bumpers. That'll make it 
stand
>out at the traffic light ;-)
>Fording water is another matter. If the creek is a long one, I wouldn't
>suggest anything higher than just above the bottom edge of the door. If 
>You shouldn't *need* skid plates, but then again, you may be going to
you
>get stuck, water seeps in and the under seat (if you have one) CD 
changer gets
>fried. If it is still deeper, the ECU will start to sizzle. If it is 
just a
>quick dunk before exiting the water, top of the wheel ought to be tops, 
but
>that demands a lot of familiarity with the vehicle and the situation. 
>There's bound to be a ton of info amongst the coilers if you need more 
>suggest anything higher than just above the bottom edge of the door. If 
info.
>Good luck, and remember to keep the a/c *on*, it lets you keep the 
>There's bound to be a ton of info amongst the coilers if you need more 
windows up,
>and the mud out :-0.
>pat.
>  ** 'lro' mailing list information from 
>You shouldn't *need* skid plates, but then again, you may be going to
'majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net'
>and the mud out :-0.

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From: steven.heylen@rug.ac.be
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 10:00:01 +0200
Subject: speedo (FFR)

My speedo died 2 months ago and I passed MoT last week (in Belgium).
BTW, can a speedo be repaired ? He's still counting the number of miles 
(km's) but the needle won't move.
And another BTW: something I want to ask you already a long time ago: what 
means ex-Gurkha ?

Philippe Carchon
Ghent, Belgium
'80 FFR lightweight.
ir. Philippe Carchon
Department of Applied Ecology and Environmental Biology
University of Gent
J. Plateaustraat 22, B-9000 Gent, Belgium
Tel: ++32 9 264 37 76  / Fax:: ++32 9 264 41 99
E-mail: philippe.carchon@rug.ac.be

Private: 
Kazemattenstraat 48
B-9000 Gent
Tel: ++32 9 223 34 76

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From: philippe.carchon@rug.ac.be
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 10:01:52 +0200
Subject: speedo (FFR)

Sorry, wrong return adress (that happens when you're using the same computer 
with a  lot of people)

My speedo died 2 months ago and I passed MoT last week (in Belgium).
BTW, can a speedo be repaired ? He's still counting the number of miles 
(km's) but the needle won't move.
And another BTW: something I want to ask you already a long time ago: what 
means ex-Gurkha ?

Philippe Carchon
Ghent, Belgium
'80 FFR lightweight.

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From: torque@pacific.net.sg (Lawrence Lee)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 16:05:57 +0800
Subject: Re: Waterproofing

>That is a great idea, positive air flow.  What else have you done to make
>yours a deep water wader?
Nothing else except a floor mat in front of the radiator grille if I intend
to drive in for the cameras. Otherwise, the snorkel and pump work well for
me.

Oh and I have a clutch fan instead of a fixed fan - less chance of breaking
because of the "give" when it hits the water.

Cheers

Lawrence Lee,
'81 Ser III 109 2.6l "Kerbau"  (kerbau is the Malay name for water buffalo,
one that prefers to STAY in the mud)

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 09:59:20 +0000
Subject: Re: The Great Danish Conflict

 Judging by the Danish media, you would think
>that this is some sort of natural catastrophe, the coming of which will
>bond the people of this peninsula and its islands together
Not much good at it are they? If they were,the media would be on strike as
well.*And* the power workers.And,God help us,the breweries.......

Mike Rooth

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