1948-1998 Land Rover's 50th Anniversary
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From: nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 08:35:58 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Jerry cans yes they are the same, and are VERY VERY nice, I read somewhere that they were made in germany under contract for the swiss, all the ones I've seen thus far have been in excellent condition, and were nicer than the Brit and other european style cans I have (russian, "east german", german ww2, french(?) etc) if they are in anything like the condition of those I've seen they are worth every penny of $12. There was a batch at a local surplus store here and they wanted $25 a piece for the swiss cans (and were getting it). now all I need are some Jerry can mounts, does anyone know where I can get these? and are european mounts different froom the US army ones? thanks Matt Nelson On Sun, 26 Apr 1998, Jarvis 64 wrote: > ago for about $10 w/ a British army shovel for another whoppint $5, but, of > course, have no recollection whatsoever of where I got them. If the swiss > ones are the same (w/ the hinged lid that NEVER leaks), I'll have to get some. > Bill ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 08:44:51 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Jerry cans The sportsman's guide has these too, supposedly east german kits for chemical decontamination of vehicles, nice little kit , two 5 liter mini-jerricans and brushes and whatnot. god only knows what type of chemicals they were meant to hold... anyone haveany idea what the eastern block used to clean up NBC stuff? Soap and water maybe? ;) teh kits are sold as "new German Military jerry can/paint kit" notice no mention is made of NBC decontamination, it probably scared off buyers... catalog # is d8m-27116 price-$19.97 I have seen them and they are nice but I couldn't think of any use for the http://www.rinto.com5 liter cans...so I didn't buy them also of interest might be the Brit army black plastic water jerricans... d8m-17676 price-$10.97 there are lots of other neat do-dads that might be of interest to people tyo, you'lyou'll see them when you get the catalog, army shovels whattnot... On Sun, 26 Apr 1998, David and Cynthia Walker wrote: ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Keith Mohlenhoff <krm@nj.paradyne.com> Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 08:59:20 -0400 Subject: Front spring removal EZ! What to do with old springs? Hi all; I removed the springs from my 109" on Saturday morning after tuning the brake adjusters on my 88". Adjusted all the cams on the 88", tried the brakes. Pedal high, Yeah! Moved the 88 out of the garage, moved the 109 in. Jacked up the front end, supported chassis and axle, sprayed magic unloosening liquid all over and had a cup of Kona flown in by my personal potable procurer (actually my mom was just on Holiday in Hawaii) Went back out and unbolted all the bolts, the springs fell to the ground assisted by gravity and it wasn't even lunchtime. When the rear spring removal went well I was expecting the worse from the front. Now what do I do with the old springs? Wife didn't like my giant wind chime idea nor my LR parts mobile idea. The thin leaves show some wear, but the two bottom leaves are thicker and look fine but for some surface rust. Any Ideas? Will have time to install the new springs later this week. The ride was much better with just new rear springs and once I get the front installed there will be no more noise from the suspension. The bushing material was mostly depleted from the front springs, this helped removal. Can't wait to go off-road and see how well these parabolic springs work. Of course it is unfair to compare them to tired non-springy leaf springs, but hay! vita non istus. Keith R. Mohlenhoff 63 IIA 5 door with new leafs on life 71 IIA 3 door with great brakes 88 RR which will now break cause it feels left out ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 09:02:51 -0400
Subject: Re: What to do with old springs?
Simple - they are a fount of material for other projects.
The main leaf would make a lovely crossbow - it's alreay bent for the
bowstring! I'd recommend steel cable and shackles for the bowstring,
though...
Truck leaf springs are also a traditional source of steel for
medieval-style knifemakers - it's able to take an edge and can be shaped
and hardened with little effort.
I agree with the wind chine idea, myself. One main leaf drilled to take
cables, and supporting the other spring, disassembled and the leaves strung
in a row...painted in contrasting colours, of course.
In Jersey, no one would even notice...8*)
ajr
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]From: Paul Wakefield - Serco <Paul.Wakefield@esrin.esa.it> Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 15:22:01 +0200 (MET DST) Subject: re: Disco Lights & cheap alternatives On Sunday 26 Apr 1998 21:33:07 EDT Spyders wrote: > (BTW, your Disco just wouldn't happen to be *Beluga Black*, would it?) Now there was a man who had a sense of humour failure ! The Rusty 110 thread had nothing on that one. As I recall this poor soul was flamed off the list for just such an innocent enquiry. Glad I own a leafer (elliptical) on this list. Whew. Paul. ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com> Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 09:43:02 EDT Subject: Re: re: Disco Lights & cheap alternatives In a message dated 4/27/98 9:27:51 AM, you wrote: >> (BTW, your Disco just wouldn't happen to be *Beluga Black*, would it?) >Now there was a man who had a sense of humour failure ! The Rusty 110 thread had nothing on that one. >As I recall this poor soul was flamed off the list for just such an innocent enquiry. >Glad I own a leafer (elliptical) on this list. Whew. (Coilerly speaking) I don't think it is taboo to be on this list if you aren't a leafer; I believe it has more to do with the spirit of the list and what goes on here. IMHO, my (and others') irreverence and sense of humor would be quite unwelcome and out of place on the other list... I'd say there are some coilers who joined this list that eventually drifted over to the other side... Mr. Beluga Black left in a huff of tire smoke after trying to censor some people on this list for not conforming to his PC or Sense of Humor; the leafers circled their StaWagons and held the laager! --pat. ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Spencer K. C. Norcross" <snorcross@spectator.org> Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 10:02:36 -0400 Subject: Re: Jerry cans Richard wrote: >>Jerry Can >Is that a correctly located Spice Girl? no, that is just part of one of the Spice Girls :) rgds, spenny Arlington, VA 1969 SWB, The Wayback Machine 1965 Ex-MOD LWB, Kimayo <- Just add bolts :-0 Land Rover - 4WD of choice for the Information Superhighway Q. Why do they call it a kilt? A. Because a lot of people got kilt when they called it a skirt. ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
[digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BD71B4.90B6E840" ] From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr> Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 08:14:51 -0500 Subject: RE: Weird Characters In options there is a tab that says "SENDING" but inside there is no option for "Plain Text" It isn't Outlook Express, its just Outlook. [digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: application/ms-tnef ] ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org> Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 07:24:59 -0700 Subject: Re: Newbie-wannabe in Arizona Jim & Paula, You need to talk to Mike Smith, John Hess, or Nick Baggerly (all of whom I've CC'd on this message). IMO, they are the most knowledgeable 'wired' people when it comes to LR dormies. Be careful, though, as you might end up like Nick, who has it bad: he currently owns three dormies, an 88, a 110, and a Rangie. John's not too far behind Nick with three Land Rovers (two running) and Mike had to go into the LR business (he's proprietor of East Coast Rover) to support his habit! Good Luck! C jim ellis wrote: 8< > We are searching for a IIa Dorm. A few initial contacts have been made. If > you can lead me to one it would be appreciated. Newbies on the VW bus email > list usually ask for the rarest vehicle and quote a budget for the rattiest, > most common offerings. I wish to avoid this faux pas with out becoming a > jail cell date. The ideal would be pre-'68 for emissions purposes if a > future V8 convertion is to be done. Keep in mind that, in general, I try > very hard to be a Vintage guy. ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Wakefield - Serco <Paul.Wakefield@esrin.esa.it> Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 16:46:05 +0200 (MET DST) Subject: re: Hydraulic Fluid level/Clutch Master David Russell wrote. : When I fill up my fluid resevoir, I have a slow leak of hydraulic fluid : down the clutch pedal onto my shoe and then the floorboard. This continues : until the entire resevoir level drops to about 1/3 or 1/4 full. At this : point, the leakage appears to stop. *** FIX THIS PROBLEM AS SOON AS POSSIBLE ! *** A cautionary tale: The fluid gets on to the floor, the pedals and your shoes in very little time. This has the unfortunate side effect of making your *brake* pedal very slippery. You wouldn't want your foot to slip off it in an emergency stop situation would you .... ? Paul. ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: David Kurzman <kurzman@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 11:09:23
Subject: Re: Land Rover Deaths
Duncan Phillips said:
I have a related question - would a hard-top have faired any better in a
flip/roll or should I consider getting a roll bar (not that I intend to
roll my motor).
I said:
As the driver of a truck with a ragtop, a single braking system and
no real emergency brake ('66 IIA 88), I wonder about this also. I have
considered a L-R military rollbar but I have questions about that also.
I had one on my old 109 and it was a bolt on. Even with grade 8 bolts I
wonder what would have happened in a rollover. A friend of mine told me
that the L-R rollbar would probably be fine in a slower rollover (like
might occur while off-roading) but the bolts would probably fail in a bad
highway rollover accident and snap the bar forward or rearward. I don't
want the truck cut up to install a bar that is welded to the frame.
What do you think? My guess is that a military roll bar is beter than
nothing.
Best, Pete
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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 11:20:59 -0400
Subject: Re Military: Land Rover Rollbars
Does anyone have a good drawing of one of these (or better yet, one for
sale in the New England area)?
I have a speed shop that can bend the applicable hoop for me, but a
measurment of the height and width would be nice.
ajr
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]From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org Date: Mon, 27 Apr 98 08:46:04 EST Subject: Re[2]: Parts interchangeability re: bonnet & breakfast Defender style on a SIII I Wrote: : Is it really this simple ? What about hinge & fittings placement etc. : call chris laws at Badger Coachworks, he has a 90/110 front end on his 88, strictly for looks since he still has a 2.25 don't know his# but it should be accesible through the rover web. later Dave "terrier?" B ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: nlamon1@tiger.lsuiss.ocs.lsu.edu Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 10:53:53 -0500 Subject: Weight of bare 88" frame? Could someone give me a hard and accurate weight for a bare 88" frame (SII-A), for shipping purposes. Thanks Neil -- ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 11:57:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Land Rover Deaths - Mil. Roll Bar
Pete
Can you tell me more about this military roll bar? Sounds like you
would only use in w/a rag top, correct? Where does it bolt on - to the hoop
mounting holes, in place of the first hoop?
I also don't want to butcher my rover to install a weld in bar.
But, it looks like Saftey Devices has a pick-up style bar with two stays.
Four brackets weld to the frame, under the rear floor, and I assume flush
to it. Then, the roll bar's four points bolt through the floor to those
welded on points. At leasty that is what I could tell from the diagram and
brief description. This might be an intermediate style. I just don't like
how it would eat up all the space in the back of my 88 - but if I rolled -
I'd want something like this. Forgot to mention it goes under a HT or ST,
and is priced at UK255 pounds. Anybody know if there is a dealer in North
America? - Peter ('65 IIA 88 Ex-MoD HT)
>Pete Said:
>As the driver of a truck with a ragtop, a single braking system and
>no real emergency brake ('66 IIA 88), I wonder about this also. I have
>considered a L-R military rollbar but I have questions about that also.
>I had one on my old 109 and it was a bolt on. Even with grade 8 bolts I
>wonder what would have happened in a rollover. A friend of mine told me
>that the L-R rollbar would probably be fine in a slower rollover (like
[ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
>nothing.
>Best, Pete
-----------------------
Peter M. Kaskan
Uris Hall 231
Dept. Of Psychology
Cornell University
607-255-3382
pmk11@cornell.edu
-----------------------
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From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 12:01:08 -0400
Subject: re: Getting air
My apologies to Sandy--I stand corrected as to the original caption. My
memory ain't what it used to be--and paranoia will destroy ya! Can't
believe nobody entered that contest either.
RoverOn!
jab
==
Jeffrey A. Berg Purple Shark Media Rowayton, CT
jeff@purpleshark.com
==================
My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
Taste for the good life,
I can see it no other way.
--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)
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From: "\"Mr. Mike\" Passaretti" <passaretti@sol.med.ge.com>
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 11:00:34 -0500
Subject: Front spring removal EZ! What to do with old springs?
>>>>> "Keith" == Keith Mohlenhoff <krm@nj.paradyne.com> writes:
Keith> Now what do I do with the old springs? Wife didn't like my
Keith> giant wind chime idea nor my LR parts mobile idea. The thin
Keith> leaves show some wear, but the two bottom leaves are thicker
Keith> and look fine but for some surface rust.
Keith> Any Ideas?
They make a fine ballista. In case you're ever under siege from the
Saxons (or the Normans, depending on your persuasion).
-MM
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]From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com> Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 12:03:37 EDT Subject: Re: Weight of bare 88" frame? In a message dated 4/27/98 12:01:45 PM, you wrote: >Could someone give me a hard and accurate weight for a bare 88" frame >(SII-A), for shipping purposes. Is that galvanized or painted? The accuracy is killing me ;-) --pat. ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net> Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 09:25:54 -0700 Subject: Re: Jerry cans I have both of these: I did not get them from there but: The cans hold 6 litres - full - great for the emergency bush oil change. Nothing was ever in them. The old brushes are great for cleaning :-) You can drive over the black water containers without rupturing them =;-0 David ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com> Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 09:12:21 -0700 Subject: RE: She's running again! Thanks, Peter. I had my foot wells replaced and painted and then did the brakes - and proceeded to dump brake fluid all over the new paint. Sure removes it nicely! See my web page for the evidence!... I do have some nice pedal pressure now at least. As far as serial numbers go, you should write to Land Rover's traceability department. I did last year for my vehicle and a friends '69 IIA (suffix G). They responded within three weeks with a letter and photocopy of the factory birth certificate for each vehicle. The '69 left the factory line in March, 1969. Mine left in December, 1960. Paul Quin 1961 Series II 88 http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/ Victoria, BC Canada ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com> Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 12:21:23 EDT Subject: Re: Front spring removal EZ! What to do with old springs? Old Springs? -Fireplace andirons (log supports) -newspaperweight on the patio (to read the Times when windy) -curbside check in at the airport, then go home -put a sign on them saying "Buck Regal, '84" and leave 'em outside -ask dixon if he needs new ones -ask ECR if they're doing any Coil-->Leaf conversions -put 'em in the bottom of the oven, that's a good out of the way place -hang out near a church on Saturday and tie 'em to the back of a "Just Married" car -weld them into a dinghy anchor -put them in the garage with the rest of the old, dirty rover parts ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Michael Fredette <mfredett@ichips.intel.com> Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 09:23:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: Land Rover Deaths - Mil. Roll Bar Can you tell me more about this military roll bar? Sounds like you would only use in w/a rag top, correct? Where does it bolt on - to the hoop mounting holes, in place of the first hoop? I also don't want to butcher my rover to install a weld in bar. But, it looks like Saftey Devices has a pick-up style bar with two stays. Hi all, I have a bit of advice/experience re the LR military roll bar. One of the three 101FC's I have was rolled many years ago and the "roll bar" did absolutely NOTHING. LR attaches these "roll" bars with just four little bolts to the galvanized body capping on the bulkhead behind the seats. The mounting is the same on the 101 and the 88/109's. There is no bracing down to the frame or triangulating back. The result was that the "roll" bar just folded neatly backwards, intact, in the rollover. The driver was thrown under the truck, but managed to scramble to safety just before it squished him. As it was he still had major injuries, punctured lung, busted ribs and ruptured spleen, broken collar bone blah blah blah. Moral of the story is that these military "roll" bars do NOT provide any protection in a rollover unless you do some extra bracing down to the frame and back towards the rear to give some fore/aft bracing. Bottom line is that if really want serious rollover protection, you will need to do some cutting/welding. They do look cool though don't they. Rgds Mike ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Neil Sheridan <neilsheridan@nac.net> Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 11:37:37 -0400 Subject: Help -- Planning a IIA 88 Frameover Dear All, I could use your accumulated help in preparing for a frameover on my 88. I know that every frameover project varies widely in terms of the necessary work. However, I am trying to create a "Chinese menu" of things that should be considered or expected. What I mean is that under "Engine" one would find "mounts" and the quantity required. "Wait", you say, "Isn't that what the RN catalog does?" No, because they don't offer much information about quantities. Yes, the original parts catalog does include bolt / size info -- but I'd like to create an aggregated list that would help one avoid forgetting some useful or even vital bit. For example, how many of each size rubber grommets are required when running wiring through a stripped and painted bulkhead? Or, how many of what size rivets should one get if you're planning to regalvanize the truck's trim bits. If you have done a frameover, or are also planning one, I would very much appreciate a copy of your order list, etc. Please e-mail it to me directly at "neilsheridan@nac.net" Please don't post it to this list. I can take ASCII, Microsoft Word or Excel, GIF, JPEG, html, and most other file formats as attachments to your DIRECT e-mail. I have tried to look at every personal web page I could find related to Series restorations. While I saw many great photos, there weren't too many detailed accounts of the parts requirements for the projects. I will prepare a master list from everybody's submissions and then make it available via a post to the list (with Bill C's permission) or by sending it Dixon for the next version of the FAQ. If anyone is interested in helping with the project on weekends (and some weeknights) in May and June and wish to come to the Northeast corner of New Jersey, I'll have a can of Guinness waiting for you. (The front axle, engine, tranny, and suspension are already done.) My father thanks you, my mother thanks you, and I thank you. Neil Sheridan neilsheridan@nac.net 131 Mercer Street Jersey City, NJ 07302 USA (201) 451- 7022 home (201) 451-2424 fax ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com> Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 12:46:22 EDT Subject: Re: Land Rover Deaths - Mil. Roll Bar Mike's right. Don't count on a bar mounted to the body capping. I've seen what the insides of a b-pillar look like, we've all seen how un-strong windshield frames can be (look at what full-length racks do to windshields when mounted to the gutter only). So, yeah, the bars ought to go down to the frame or to the outriggers below the floor. Just had a look at the Safety Devices website and I didn't see the Series br, but it is in their catalog... -pat. ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com> Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 09:48:22 -0700 Subject: RE: Land Rover Deaths Friends of mine were driving a 1968 IIA 88 back to Victoria along the West Coast Road when they hit an oily batch of road on a sharp turn along a cliff face. The Land Rover hit the concrete guard and did a combination roll - spin and started to flip. The rear port (left) roof / side of the hard top hit the concrete guard and bounced the Rover back up on it's feet. If they had a soft top or worse, no top as we often do in the summer, things would have been much worse. Paul. ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Marijn van der Himst <marijn@multiweb.net> Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 19:27:59 +0200 Subject: Re: FFR electrics Am looking forward to Richard's homepage with additional photo's and diagrams...as my FFR might have simular problems. And Richard, I have a spare speedo with about 34K on it. Does not look all that new, anyway you let me know. By the way, looking at the original connectors on wiring, is this system commercially available? I'm not to keen on using that cheap rubbish one can buy nowadays, unless you invest in a good AMp-clamp, (around 100 GBP) you could just as well tie the cables together with plastic tape... P.S. am still looking for a (new?) cappilary oil temp. gauge, the one that sits where, on the civvie version, the 'charge' light is. *anyone*? Ta in advance...again. Marijn 3-74 SIII FFR still silently growing older to its 25th anniversary ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net> Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 10:52:27 -0700 Subject: Trans - tranfer Case Migration I have oil going from the transmission to the transfer case - please tell me there is an easy fix out there. What would be the hard fix? I just put Synthetic in the hubs and transmission - they feel great Cheers David Wahoo Adventures - Stay at Home Father 1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD" Ural Motorcycle - S/V KALAKALA, Ingrid 38, ketch ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
[digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ] From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com> Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 01:25:54 -0600 Subject: Researching VIN...Need Help asap charset="iso-8859-1" Dear all, I need to research my vin on my 109. I want to put together a detailed = description of what was ordered from the factory. Is it possible to call Solihull and have them run a production report? Please advise asap. Thanks, John ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01BDC4C6.FBFBE500 [ Original post was HTML ] [digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: text/html; ] ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: David Kurzman <kurzman@ix.netcom.com> Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 13:57:30 Subject: Re: Land Rover Deaths - Mil. Roll Bar Pete said: Can you tell me more about this military roll bar? Sounds like you would only use in w/a rag top, correct? Where does it bolt on - to the hoop mounting holes, in place of the first hoop? I said: You're right. It takes the place of the 1st hoop. It just bolts through the galvanized body caps. I had an email that explained that they are not much good for rollovers. My advice is just keep the Rover below 90 mph ;-) Best, Pete '66 IIA 88 Ragtop ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com> Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 11:14:13 -0700 Subject: RE: Researching VIN...Need Help asap You can write to: John Riley, Project Eng., Traceability, Lode Lane , Solihull, West Midlands B92 SNW, England You may be able to ask for specific information, but all I got was the factory floor start date, end date, body colour, & original buyer (Rover Co. of Vancouver BC in my case) They will include a photo copy of the original factory records. All hand written. No computers back then! Paul in Victoria. ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: PScales <pscales@blvl.igs.net> Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 13:17:00 Subject: 88" or 86" in 1955 >. >> PS: The man I visited today also has two 1955 88" LRs, in terrible shape. >> I've never seen a 1955 in Canada! >Are you sure they were 88s and 1955? I believe the 88s didn't start until >1956. >Frank >. I only measured the wheelbase on one side, and the steering might have been turned. Perhaps they *are* only 86". Peter >. ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com> Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 17:32:19 EDT Subject: Re: Help -- Planning a IIA 88 Frameover In a message dated 4/27/98 12:46:38 PM, you wrote: >I know that every frameover project varies widely in terms of the necessary work. >However, I am trying to create a "Chinese menu" of things that should be considered >or expected. Don't forget: Item: Spring Rolls (errr, bushings) Two per spring... Item: Spring Shackles, specify if "stock" or "Won Ton" Military-type are desired... Can't seem to find anymore items of similarity on my take out menu ;-) pat. ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com> Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 17:35:52 EDT Subject: Re: Help -- Planning a IIA 88 Frameover 2 In a message dated 4/27/98 12:46:38 PM, you wrote: >If anyone is interested in helping >with the project on weekends (and some weeknights) in May and June and >wish to come to the Northeast corner of New Jersey, I'll have a can of >Guinness waiting for you. Can of Guinness? Fer a can, I'll tighten the lugnuts. :-) Six cans and I'll test the brakes :-0 pat. ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca> Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 17:43:42 -0700 Subject: Re: Help -- Planning a IIA 88 Frameover 2 SPYDERS wrote: > Can of Guinness? Fer a can, I'll tighten the lugnuts. :-) Six cans and >I'll test the brakes :-0. You always want the good jobs don't you. Well, I'll do the steering for six cans then! Con Seitl 1973 III 88 "Pig" ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Joseph Broach <broach@utkux.utk.edu> Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 18:01:29 +0100 Subject: Explorer Procomp Shocks (was Parabolics) By now I'm sure many of you, like myself, have read with interest the article in the May LRW about parabolic springs. In addition to the springs, the Procomp ES3000 shocks were also praised. Well, after a little digging I found that these are a common shock here in US 4x4 circles (although I'd never heard of them). They are made in Spring Valley California by Explorer. Well, further searching revealed an online store at http://www.4wdstore.com/ that sells them. A search turns up some spec'ed for a "Landrover 100 4wd '70-'93". I decided that this must be a series vehicle despite the 100 and the year range (there are separate listings for rangies, discos, etc). They list the Procomp ES3000 (EXP-321523 fr, EXP-321530 rr) for models 0-1" over stock height for $31.57/shock. May be an interesting alternative to Rancho and OME. -joseph knoxville, tn ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Richard Clarke"<Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au> Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 08:42:08 +1000 Subject: high voltage lights I would resist the use of high voltage (240 or 110 volts) as a permanent fitting on a vehicle due in part to the risk of electrocution - if you are going to be running 50-100 amps @12v DC and then converting it to AC the fuse is going to have to be pretty big - if you get a short to the body and through you to earth it could be a 'shocking experience' - at least at 12 volts it doesn't kill you - just lets the smoke leak out :-) Another problem is (I think) that the inverters are not 100% effecient, so 300w @ 100v AC through an inverter from 12v DC is going to 'cost more' battery charge than taking the 300w as 12v DC in the first place - watts is watts, what ever the voltage and there for equals the same amount of light (of course the is voltage loss throgh the wires (or are the wyers :-)) etc. but I dont think that would make much difference as long as they were a decnt size my 2.5c worth ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Jarvis 64 <Jarvis64@aol.com> Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 18:51:06 EDT Subject: Re: Re: Jerry can mounts The European ones will fit in a U.S. holder, but I couldn't find a real U.S. holder (only super-cheapo Korean stuff that lasted about a week before all the spot welds popped out). So I had my own holder made of 1" square tubing for about $40 at a welding shop. They did a really nice job, stainless threaded studs to go through the door and all. It's been hauling a full can over Rover bump-enhanced terrain for about 2 yrs. and is still doing great. I just put some plywood behind the door, so the weight's on the steel frame and not the skin, and it's all good. Bill ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com> Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 19:04:09 EDT Subject: Roll over comment For those of you with the April 98 LROI Mag, look on page 49 at the pic of the 110 & Disco. Ouch. pat. ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 22:44:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Getting air
Jeffrey A. Berg wrote:
> My apologies to Sandy--I stand corrected as to the original caption. My
> memory ain't what it used to be--and paranoia will destroy ya! Can't
> believe nobody entered that contest either.
Would a paranoiac get really depressed if there was nobody out to get
him?
John and Muddy
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]From: wrm@ccii.co.za (Wouter de Waal) Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 09:03:22 +0200 Subject: I'm Baaack! :-) Hi all Actually, I've been back from the 50th anniversary tour since last Wednesday. 22 megs of email. And yes, I did remember to unsubscribe from the not-so-important lists. Spikkels the Rand-Lover performed quite well, I broke a half shaft (totally expected that to happen more than once on this trip) and the brake lining came off the one shoe (unexpected, also scary (<5000 miles on these shoes, they're supposed to be brand new)). So I'm replacing all the brake shoes, can't trust the ones that are in there now (from TMS, nogal). Anyway, all in all quite a nice trip, 5280 miles, lots and lots of fuel, about 20 liters of oil, and more water than you can imagine. A lot of the people are of course still on the tour, including the Oppenheims (soon, on my web page, a photo of Kermit with *three* wheels in the air, proof that a diff lock gets you suck further into the bush (Lesotho in this case)). Wouter (Still catching up with email) PS: Pim, hi, d'you have some pics up yet? ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk> Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 08:19:55 +0100 Subject: Re: FFR electrics I've just swapped my original speedo in... and it doesn't work. My MoT is about 3 weeks away. It looks like I might have to get it to an independent garage. (I was going to get the shocks and possible welding done by a garage anyway). They'll hog it for a few days. Then get it through the MoT (typically takes a few days!). In other words, I'm not sure if you could get it to me in time. Thanks, anyway. Do you meant the FFR genny stuff? I think only Rover sell it - and at a price. I left the batteries connected overnight, and it took a bit of cranking to get it to fire. Not sure if this was due to lots of dew/water, and discharging battery. The batteries read 25.3v before cranking (ie. the same as lastnight). Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) marijn@multiweb.net on 04/27/98 06:27:59 PM Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com cc: (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC) Subject: Re: FFR electrics Am looking forward to Richard's homepage with additional photo's and diagrams...as my FFR might have simular problems. And Richard, I have a spare speedo with about 34K on it. Does not look all that new, anyway you let me know. By the way, looking at the original connectors on wiring, is this system commercially available? I'm not to keen on using that cheap rubbish one can buy nowadays, unless you invest in a good AMp-clamp, (around 100 GBP) you could just as well tie the cables together with plastic tape... P.S. am still looking for a (new?) cappilary oil temp. gauge, the one that sits where, on the civvie version, the 'charge' light is. *anyone*? Ta in advance...again. Marijn 3-74 SIII FFR still silently growing older to its 25th anniversary ------------------------------[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980428 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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