L-R Mailing Lists 1948-1998 Land Rover's 50th Anniversary

Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents


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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

msgSender linesSubject
1 Kevin Sellitti [Kevinsel31RE: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest /unsubbing
2 "Wrecker" [wrecker@wreck16Re: The simplest anti theft devices...
3 mark.luker@virgin.net (m29Landrover News from Whitby, North Yorkshire, England.
4 "David and Cynthia Walke34Greasing springs
5 john cranfield [john.cra20Re: Landrover News from Whitby, North Yorkshire, England.
6 "K. John Wood" [jwrover@18Re: Parabolic springs-Hey Jeff!
7 jimellis@primenet.com (j26Newbie in AZ-Stick in the Mud? ;-)
8 john cranfield [john.cra25Re: Newbie in AZ-Stick in the Mud? ;-)
9 Russ Wilson [rwilson@usa27Re: Newbie in AZ-Stick in the Mud? ;-)
10 Jeff Goldman [roverboy@g23Re: Parabolic springs-Hey Jeff!
11 SPYDERS [SPYDERS@aol.com15Re: Parabolic springs
12 SPYDERS [SPYDERS@aol.com20Hydraulic Winches & Capstan
13 Matt Nelson [nelsml73@sn23Jerry cans
14 David Cockey [dcockey@ti26Re: Parabolic Springs Again
15 Mohammed Taheri [mrbeans22cheap alternative
16 David Cockey [dcockey@ti30Bumper heights, wheel size, etc.
17 "William L. Leacock" [wl21Synchro repair
18 "Con P. Seitl" [seitl@ns28Re: cheap alternative
19 PScales [pscales@blvl.ig2188" IIA sn244xxxxxE is a 1966
20 Mohammed Taheri [mrbeans21Re: cheap alternative
21 "Con P. Seitl" [seitl@ns13Re: 88" IIA sn244xxxxxE is a 1966
22 "Con P. Seitl" [seitl@ns14Re: cheap alternative
23 Mohammed Taheri [mrbeans14Re: cheap alternative
24 "Con P. Seitl" [seitl@ns18Re: cheap alternative
25 "David and Cynthia Walke25Re: Bumper heights, wheel size, etc.
26 "David and Cynthia Walke11Re: cheap alternative More light
27 SPYDERS [SPYDERS@aol.com47Re: cheap alternative
28 "David and Cynthia Walke9Re: 88" IIA sn244xxxxxE is a 1966
29 "Peter M. Kaskan" [pmk1120Re: cheap alternative
30 SPYDERS [SPYDERS@aol.com22Re: cheap alternative/2
31 SPYDERS [SPYDERS@aol.com14Re: Re: 88" IIA sn244xxxxxE is a 1966
32 Mohammed Taheri [mrbeans25Re: cheap alternative More light
33 Mohammed Taheri [mrbeans31Re: cheap alternative
34 Mohammed Taheri [mrbeans22Re: cheap alternative/2
35 Mohammed Taheri [mrbeans19Re: cheap alternative
36 Mohammed Taheri [mrbeans12off-road lights
37 Jarvis 64 [Jarvis64@aol.12Re: Jerry cans
38 David Russell [David_R@m32Hydraulic Fluid level/Clutch Master
39 "Bill Fishel" [bfishel@c30Re: >[Re: Weird Characters>
40 "David and Cynthia Walke13Re: Re: 88" IIA sn244xxxxxE is a 1966
41 "David and Cynthia Walke16Re: Jerry cans
42 "FHYap" [FHYap@ix.netcom13Re: 88" IIA sn244xxxxxE is a 1966
43 "FHYap" [FHYap@ix.netcom22Re: Bumper heights, wheel size, etc.
44 "Richard Marsden"[rmarsd32RE: volcanoes
45 "Richard Marsden"[rmarsd11Re: Jerry cans
46 "Richard Marsden"[rmarsd54FFR: Problems solved?
47 "Richard Marsden"[rmarsd27Re: Parabolic springs
48 Duncan Phillips [dunk@iv31Land Rover Deaths
49 Semih Bingol [semih@leo.18Re: Land Rover Deaths


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From: Kevin Sellitti <Kevinsel@gte.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 08:39:29 -0400
Subject: RE: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest /unsubbing

A mind is a terrible thing....

He who Laughs Last.... Thinks slowest........
Kevin Sellitti
The Defender 110/130 Pickup Website  http://home1.gte.net/kevinsel/
Kevinsel@gte.net

----------
From: 	Russ Wilson[SMTP:rwilson@usaor.net]
Sent: 	Saturday, April 25, 1998 8:47 PM
Subject: 	Re:The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest /unsubbing

>In a message dated 4/24/98 7:48:08 PM, mfoster@CHROMALLOY.COM wrote:
>>     unsubscribe
>What do y'all think when you see this message on your screen?

That some poor stupid shit is just trying like hell to make the influx of
messages stop.

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
Pittsburgh, Pa.

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From: "Wrecker" <wrecker@wreckers.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 14:44:28 +0100
Subject: Re: The simplest anti theft devices...

HI all
Not wanting to have to point out the obvious flaw in the idea of having 4
fwh fitted but how do you get the parking brake to work when the hubs all
the hubs are disengaged ? I had this prob after snaping a half shaft in my
88" S11a. I had to let the Land rest against someone elses car whilst I got
out and re-engaged the front hubs so I could get her to stay still by puting
her in 4wd.

Yours
 Wrecker

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From: mark.luker@virgin.net (mark.luker@virgin.net)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 16:04:38 +0100
Subject: Landrover News from Whitby, North Yorkshire, England.

Hello all,

I am a bit of a lurker on this list, I love Landies but am without one at
the moment, so don't usually have much input to offer.

This morning, the newly formed Whitby and District Landrover Enthusiasts
(WADLE) had their first 'rally' for want of a better word. I would think
that nearly 75 Landrovers turned up for a drive round the town and a park up
on the pier.

All series Landies where well represented, also there was a Freelander, some
Disco's and Rangies, two or three Lightweights and a Forward Control (which
was for sale, and I'm trying very hard not to think about that, as I have no
where to put it). Commercial Landrovers were there too, with Gas,
Electricity, Coast Guard and Fire services being covered. Also there was a
Ser IIa ice-cream van, which had its photo in LRO sometime last autumn.

All in all a very good turnout, it rained, but somehow Landies and fine
weather don't go hand in hand. Well, not round here anyway. There was a
collection for charity too, but I don't know what the total was.

Cheers
Mark

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From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 07:46:15 -0700
Subject: Greasing springs

When I first put my Land Rover back on the road, we just came back from
sailing and it was the only vehicle we had.
Cindi was also eight months pregnant!  Her smooth ride demands
were.......well, shall we say - PRIORITY!!!!!! (if you have not been in a
situation of mixing a rough vehicle and late pregnancy - well, then you
might miss the point)
I needed to LR to be real smooth

Two major changes were:
A good set of M&S rated radials with no edge knobs.
Dry - DRY - graphite lube between the leafs (this was night and day).
Please note that I did not use grease.

After giving a few different LR owners a ride over the years, I have been
told that mine is the most comfortable and quiet :-0 Land Rover they have
ever been in.

It does help with wheel articulation also - I go off road a decent amount.

Oh, the first trimester was on an off-shore delivery.....32 days, 2900
NM....Delivered in a Mid wife clinic in Calgary.  Land Rover is not just a
statement, it is part of our lifestyle.

Cheers
David
Wahoo Adventures - Stay at Home Father
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
Ural Motorcycle - S/V KALAKALA, Ingrid 38, ketch

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 11:30:33 -0300
Subject: Re: Landrover News from Whitby, North Yorkshire, England.

mark.luker@virgin.net wrote:
> Hello all,
> I am a bit of a lurker on this list, I love Landies but am without one at
> the moment, so don't usually have much input to offer.
> This morning, the newly formed Whitby and District Landrover Enthusiasts
> (WADLE) had their first 'rally' for want of a better word. I would think
> that nearly 75 Landrovers turned up for a drive round the town and a park up

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 24 lines)]
> Cheers
> Mark
 It was raining the last time I was in Witby too but that was in a
Vauxhall Astra so there was really no excuse for the weather.
    John and Muddy

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From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 02:15:38 -0600
Subject: Re: Parabolic springs-Hey Jeff!

Jeff,
An other option for purchaseing the springs is through a guy in Colorado
Springs, CO. He and great basin are the only two allowed to distribute in
the US under contract from the manufacture. His name is Frank Jakos a
Concourse Cars. I think his pricesd might be a bit more reasonable...I've
never heard of needing the "kit" to install a set that are safe, functional,
and much improved over factory leafs.

Frank- 719-473-6288 mon-fri 8am-5pm

Yours'
John

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From: jimellis@primenet.com (jim ellis)
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 09:55:49 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Newbie in AZ-Stick in the Mud? ;-)

 Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
>Look for us in our green and white VW Westfalia at the starting point of the
>Flagstaff event in June!
Will you be stuck in the mud??  Is there mud in Az???

Ah, quite! good one.
Let me reassure the list that the Ellis family is not a bunch of "Sticks in
the Mud" ~ Also the written word sometimes prevents one from understanding
that all parties are intending humor/humour. All has been received and sent
as such.
BTW: Little chance for much mud in Northern AZ in June. Look for mild to
warm weather and good times. July and August are a bit wetter but not bad at
all. To clarify, we intended to camp and *watch* the start off and then
procede on to the California VW Classic in Irvine California.
I have yet to convince my wife that a Landie is a brilliant idea. There is
hope as I got her hooked on me and aircooled German fodder. She still smiles
once in awhile.
I will, in future posts, try to restrict my comments to mechanical
discussions...
-ellis\

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 14:02:11 -0300
Subject: Re: Newbie in AZ-Stick in the Mud? ;-)

jim ellis wrote:
>  Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
> >Look for us in our green and white VW Westfalia at the starting point of the
> >Flagstaff event in June!
> Will you be stuck in the mud??  Is there mud in Az???
> Ah, quite! good one.
> Let me reassure the list that the Ellis family is not a bunch of "Sticks in
> the Mud" ~ Also the written word sometimes prevents one from understanding
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
> hope as I got her hooked on me and aircooled German fodder. She still smiles
> once in awhile.
Driving a VW bus you must be used to people smiling at you. Mostly in
that rather patronizing way reserved for small boys and fools.
     John and Muddy

> I will, in future posts, try to restrict my comments to mechanical
> discussions...
> -ellis\
> Will you be stuck in the mud??  Is there mud in Az???

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From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 14:00:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Newbie in AZ-Stick in the Mud? ;-)

Also the written word sometimes prevents one from understanding
>that all parties are intending humor/humour
It was taken as such...  Welcome to the list

>.
>I have yet to convince my wife that a Landie is a brilliant idea.
If you manage to do this I am sure that there are many, many, men who would
love to be let in on your method of persuasion.

>I will, in future posts, try to restrict my comments to mechanical
>discussions...
Don't do that.....   The list needs a bit of humor/humour no matter how
poorly recieved by those that ARE "sticks in the mud"

Good luck on finding a suitable Rover for your needs

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
Pittsburgh, Pa.

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From: Jeff Goldman <roverboy@gis.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 15:24:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Parabolic springs-Hey Jeff!

At 02:15 AM 8/10/98 -0600, you wrote:

>Concourse Cars. I think his pricesd might be a bit more reasonable...I've
>never heard of needing the "kit" to install a set that are safe, functional,
>and much improved over factory leafs.

  Thanks for the info on Concourse. I should clarify, however, that a "kit"
is not necessary to install parabolic springs, and Great Basin does sell
just the springs alone. The "kit" is for an almost complete suspension
upgrade and changeover including, new springs, shocks, polyurethane bushes,
and assorted hardware. Perfect for those going the frameover suspension
replacement route and need all the aforementioned items. The parabolic
springs alone do work as direct replacements for the stock springs, if so
desired.

Jeff G.
Boston, MA

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From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 14:59:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Parabolic springs

Does anyone know what is *parabolic* about parabolic springs? Does the axle
describe a parabola in traveling up & down when going over bumps, or does it
have to do with the shape, or what?

I saw the pictures of them on that www. page and the leaves looked pretty
straight from center to bush (not flat from end to end), with a gap between
the leaves, under no load. Maybe under load they look "parabolic"?

pat.

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From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 15:24:12 EDT
Subject: Hydraulic Winches & Capstan

To those who were looking at Mile Marker winches, but fell asleep waiting for
them to spool in, here's another www site that offers winches & hydraulic
capstans:

www.dpwinch.com

dp WINCH, Inc.
Tulsa, OK
1-800-dpwinch

no connections or comments, other than they have a lot of orange paint on
hand!

pat.

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From: Matt Nelson <nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 18:41:10 -0400
Subject: Jerry cans

Anyone in teh USA who wants nice Swiss Jerry cans...
the Sportsman's guied has some and evidently they ARE in stock because I
just ordered 5. they are $11.97 a piece
catalog # for them is d8m-23686
donkey dicks for them are d8m-13473 if you need them...
Phone # is 1-800-888-3006
there is no maximum number that you can order...
this company usually socks it to you on shipping when you order small
stuff but in jerry cans its pretty fair.

I'm not affiliated with them etc, just a pretty satisfied customer, and
I'm trying to make up for thet Northern Hydraulics fiasco last fall...
;)

good luck
Matt Nelson
Hartwick, New York

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From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 19:34:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Parabolic Springs Again

dbobeck wrote:

> so what i want to know is

> 7. What is meant by parabolic. How are these different from regular
> springs.
> 8. Please only knowledgable answers

A semi-knowledgeable answer:
>From the pictures I've seen the parabolic springs have a progressive
rate, meaning they get stiffer as the are compressed,. This is due to
the free ends of the secondary leaves which are not in contact with the
other leaves initially. This is not uncommon on light trucks these days.
Also this construction reduces friction and should reduce harshness.

The parabolic name may signify that these springs have a rising rate and
thus a "parabolic" rather than linear force-deflection curve.

Regards,
David Cockey

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From: Mohammed Taheri <mrbeans@bellsouth.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 19:38:28 -0400
Subject: cheap alternative

Hi everyone, it's me again.  I don't have any off-road lights yet,
pretty much because of their price. But I came up with a cheap and neat
alternative that I'm proud of.  I want to use four of those 300 watt
rectangular worklamps like you might see in Lowes or Home Depot.  I'm
probably going to need to get a Dual Battery System also.  The 300 watt
worklamps are built for AC Power but I'm going to use a DC/AC inverter
to power them in the Disco.  I'll then mount them using a light bar that
I'll hopefully find.  I'll hook them up electrically by leaving all the
electrical stuff (like the inverter, because it requires direct
connection to the car battery) under the hood, probably screwed to the
firewall and using some well-insulated copper wire to extend the switch
out of the inverter to the interior of the Disco.  All thoughts/advice
appreciated!

Mohammed Taheri
'95 Discovery

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From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 19:51:57 -0400
Subject: Bumper heights, wheel size, etc.

The federal passenger car bumper regulations have never applied to LR
series trucks, nor Defenders. Both are exempt as off-road light trucks
due to the combination of 4wd, approach angle, ground clearance, running
or axle clearance, breakover angle, and departure angle. (I deal with
bumper req. at work.)

Also, the US passenger car bumper requirements kicked in around '73, so
I don't think they had anything to do with the switch to 15" wheels.
More probable is a request from the US marketing folks to follow Jeep
who switched to 15" wheels from 16" in the early '60s.

Most new heavy trucks (much heavier the LRs) are now covered by a rear
under-rider requirement, and the height requirement for those was
recently lowered. This may be the regulation David Walker was refering
to.

I wonder about the reason LR moved the headlights outboard in the late
'60's. Neither Jeep CJ's nor Toyota LC's moved at that time. Both new US
regs and Australian regs are sometimes sighted as the reason. Were the
LR headlights closer than Jeep or Toyota so that they alone had a
problems, or did LR mis-understand the new regulations, or what?

Regards,
David Cockey

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From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 19:56:56 -0400
Subject: Synchro repair

<< The
 "pliers " that surgeons use to close off blood vessels are extremely useful
 when fitting the springs. >>

Hemostats.  Straight or curved and about how long?

Nate

 Mine are about 1 inch to the hinge point and about 6 inch long.  I have
seen some about 4 inch but I think they would be a little short.  Cant
imagine curved or staright would make much difference, mine are straight. Of
course if we have some surgeons on the list with surplus hemostats I am
willing to try different types.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 20:05:20 -0700
Subject: Re: cheap alternative

Mohammed Taheri wrote:
> I want to use four of those 300 watt
> rectangular worklamps like you might see in Lowes or Home Depot.  I'm
> probably going to need to get a Dual Battery System also.  The 300 watt
> worklamps are built for AC Power but I'm going to use a DC/AC inverter
> to power them in the Disco.   All thoughts/advice
> appreciated!.

Only thing that comes to mind is......don't. We have them (500 w x 4) on 
our new Fire Dept. Rescue truck, Volvo, diesel. During trials, we let it 
sit idling with the four lights on. After about 15 minutes it 
automatically set itself up to high idle to offset the battery condition. 
 About 30 minutes the lights were observed to be noticably dimmer. After 
another 1/2 hour, we shut it down, and tried to restart the engine. No 
go. So, one of the mods that came of the trials was the addition of a 
5000w gen-set. It not only powers our lights when on a call at night for 
any length of time, but also is a back up for our regular gen set that 
powers lights and fans etc. (can also be used to jump start the Rescue in 
case someone forgets to switch the gen-set up).

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

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From: PScales <pscales@blvl.igs.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 20:20:41
Subject: 88" IIA sn244xxxxxE is a 1966

>.
Further to my question about IIA serial numbers and production years,
I just looked at a wretched 88" IIA in Trenton, Ontario (for $1,000!!)
with a serial number starting with 244 and ending with E.  The owner
thinks it is a 1966, and that's how it was once registered.

My original question was in regard to a 264xxxxxE IIA.  Thanks to the
two fellows who have e-mailed their info, but in some ways I'm even
more confused now.  Does anyone else have a 264xxxxx LR?

Peter

PS: The man I visited today also has two 1955 88" LRs, in terrible shape.
I've never seen a 1955 in Canada!
>.

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From: Mohammed Taheri <mrbeans@bellsouth.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 20:35:22 -0400
Subject: Re: cheap alternative

> Only thing that comes to mind is......don't. We have them (500 w x 4) on
> our new Fire Dept. Rescue truck, Volvo, diesel. During trials, we let it
> sit idling with the four lights on. After about 15 minutes it
> automatically set itself up to high idle to offset the battery condition.
>  About 30 minutes the lights were observed to be noticably dimmer. After
> another 1/2 hour, we shut it down, and tried to restart the engine. No
> go. So, one of the mods that came of the trials was the addition of a
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
> Con Seitl
> 1973 III 88 "Pig"

Thanks for the info, but what if I used a dual battery system?

Mohammed Taheri
'95 Discovery

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From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 20:36:24 -0700
Subject: Re: 88" IIA sn244xxxxxE is a 1966

PScales wrote:
> I've never seen a 1955 in Canada!.

Well, come on down, I'll give ya a ride in one.

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"  **and a 1955 I 86**

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From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 20:39:03 -0700
Subject: Re: cheap alternative

Mohammed Taheri wrote:

> Thanks for the info, but what if I used a dual battery system?.

The Rescue's got 4 batteries.

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

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From: Mohammed Taheri <mrbeans@bellsouth.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 20:49:54 -0400
Subject: Re: cheap alternative

Con P. Seitl wrote:

> The Rescue's got 4 batteries.

Wow, guess I'm back to the drawing boards.  Thanks!

Mohammed Taheri
'95 Discovery

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From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 20:51:46 -0700
Subject: Re: cheap alternative

Con P. Seitl wrote:

> The Rescue's got 4 batteries..
 I should add, that the truck ain't no small one either. It's one foot 
shorter than our Pumper, 34 ft. Got bunk for 3 fellows for ScBA, all our 
Jaws of Life gear, pumps, stretchers, E-vac gear and supplies, a whole 
bunch of med gear I hope not to use, etc etc, and of course, we run all 
those flashing red and white lights and sirens. (it's the real reason we 
drive fire trucks ;-) )

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

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From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 18:17:41 -0700
Subject: Re: Bumper heights, wheel size, etc.

Headlights were moved to meet the minimum distance between them requirements
laid out in the BIG automotive change year of 1968 (Thanks to Ralph).  Jeeps
were not modified because they meet the requirements (I think 24 or 26" c to
c on the lights).  Land Rover lights could not be moved out far enough (they
were already moved to the edge of the center panel).  Additionally, Jeeps
have a wider radiator panel.
All cars, import and domestic underwent huge changes in 1968 - pollution
controls, death of the true muscle cars, braking requirements, light
requirements - taillight also.....to mention a few.  There were new bumper
reg's in 68 also - in 73 they added the "5 mile per hour impact reg.", among
others.
I did extensive custom work - decroming, body mod's etc. on a variety of
vehicles in the past. - I really like those pre 1968 vehicles!

Cheers
David
Wahoo Adventures - Stay at Home Father
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
Ural Motorcycle - S/V KALAKALA, Ingrid 38, ketch

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From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 18:51:14 -0700
Subject: Re: cheap alternative More light

If you want more light up front - switch to higher power bulbs in your
headlights.  55/60 are stock but you can go higher (illegal in most places
though) I have 90/140's - great at night.

David

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From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 21:33:07 EDT
Subject: Re:  cheap alternative

In a message dated 4/26/98 7:42:55 PM, you wrote:

>[But I came up with a cheap and neat
>alternative that I'm proud of.  I want to use four of those 300 watt
rectangular worklamps like you might see in Lowes or Home Depot.  I'm
probably going to need to get a Dual Battery System also.  The 300 watt
>worklamps are built for AC Power but I'm going to use a DC/AC inverter
>to power them in the Disco.  I'll then mount them] yadda, yadda, yadda...

Ack! I can't think of a reason to come up with such a proposal. (BTW, your
Disco just wouldn't happen to be *Beluga Black*, would it?) How many lights do
you need up there? I often wonder about that. I'm often coming home after sun
down, but have never felt a burning desire for X-more watts of light on the
roof... I mean, how fast can I drive at night before I'm Treading-Not-So-
Lightly into an obstacle my regular headlights on high can't pick up? Unless I
want to be some Desert-Racer wannabee, jumping off dunes in Baja, I think
headlights give a lot of illumination when going off road at night, especially
in low range. Then again, I can't comment on your Disco's stock lights (never
been in one at night), but I have 7inch H-4s with good bulbs, and they perform
admirably. Save the money and use it to put on a decent under bumper guard or
better off-pavement tires (IMHO, the extra lights will just light up the
mudbog your stock tires can't get you through, better).

I must admit, that I too sometimes fall for the marketing hype and the need to
hang all sortsa bits off a land rover, but I'm humbled when I see Quintin take
his 80inch all over, and do everything without ARB bumpers, zillion pound
winches and staduim lights. I mean, it isn't like everything is necessary,
just adjust your pace. But, who's to say what to whom, right? Personal
preference rules at the end of the day, which is why we all drive different
rovers, set up differently.

I also believe in changing things out as they're needed, not just because it
is the latest thing on special at RN; ie: keep the muffler till it falls off,
then get the snazzy zoom tube, or keep the stock bumper until you (or I) hit a
tree, then judge whether it was really too weak (it wasn't, really). I admire
those who can buy a vehicle and decorate it with add-ons as soon as it gets
home, but I would caution against it. You'll spend less, and spend wiser.

my .02

pat.

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From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 18:52:43 -0700
Subject: Re: 88" IIA sn244xxxxxE is a 1966

There is a 54 and 56 for sale in Calgary - 500 Doll hairs for the pair!

David

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 21:47:28 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: cheap alternative

Mohammed, have you priced an  DC/AC inverter? Last I looked they aren't
cheap. I seem to remember that in JC Whitney they ran from 100 or so for
really small ones to about 5 or 6 hundred. Four of those 300 watters will
suck (300watts x 4 /12volts) 100 amps from that inverter - That's a lotta
juice!    Peter

-----------------------
Peter M. Kaskan
Uris Hall 231
Dept. Of Psychology
Cornell University
607-255-3382
pmk11@cornell.edu
-----------------------

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From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 21:47:41 EDT
Subject: Re: cheap alternative/2

I didn't mean to sound negative on the whole idea, I think the suggestion of
using 110VAC lights from Home Depot through an inverter just struck me as a
bad idea and I wanted to save humankind from doing that kind of jury-rigging.

Dave runs brighter bulbs, so do I, though not quite as bright as his... and
they do make a big difference. Big enough that I will continue to be like a
Dutch Tulip Farmer and search far and wide for good bulbs.

Someone has a good webpage on wiring additional accessories (I think it is C
Glaves w/ a 90), and there are also other sites with the proper way to run a
new harness and relays. I highly recommend doing it properly when you add
electrical accesories.

so that makes it .04

pat.

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From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 21:49:20 EDT
Subject: Re:  Re: 88" IIA sn244xxxxxE is a 1966

In a message dated 4/26/98 9:38:27 PM, you wrote:

>There is a 54 and 56 for sale in Calgary - 500 Doll hairs for the pair!

What's the catch? They are frozen under 300 feet of ice next to a WWII
squadron? Any idea on the condition/s?

pat.

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From: Mohammed Taheri <mrbeans@bellsouth.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 21:59:29 -0400
Subject: Re: cheap alternative More light

David and Cynthia Walker wrote:
> If you want more light up front - switch to higher power bulbs in your
> headlights.  55/60 are stock but you can go higher (illegal in most places
> though) I have 90/140's - great at night.

Thanks for the info, where do you live?  Speaking of bulbs, have yall
seen those purple headlamps that are on most of the new Mercedes' and
Lexus'?  If you don't know what they are, they're H.I.D (High Intensity
Discharge) Xenon gas systems that don't use light bulbs but use a gas
discharge and they cost like $2,000 US.  I found a couple of companies
that sell colored bulbs that look as close as you can get to the real
Xenon systems and they cost about $35 US per bulb and come in almost if
not every size.  According to my research, the best "imitation" is made
by a company called "Heliolite."  The URL to the page that has these
Heliolites for sale is "http://www.sportscar-parts.com/heliolite.htm" 
Bye.

Mohammed Taheri
'95 Discovery

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From: Mohammed Taheri <mrbeans@bellsouth.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 22:06:00 -0400
Subject: Re: cheap alternative

SPYDERS wrote:

> Ack! I can't think of a reason to come up with such a proposal. (BTW, your
> Disco just wouldn't happen to be *Beluga Black*, would it?) How many lights do
> you need up there? I often wonder about that. I'm often coming home after sun
> down, but have never felt a burning desire for X-more watts of light on the
> roof... I mean, how fast can I drive at night before I'm Treading-Not-So-
> Lightly into an obstacle my regular headlights on high can't pick up? Unless I
> want to be some Desert-Racer wannabee, jumping off dunes in Baja, I think
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 30 lines)]
> home, but I would caution against it. You'll spend less, and spend wiser.
> my .02

Well basically, there are so many Disco's in my city (Charlotte, NC)
that I want mine to be different than the one that pulls up next to me
at the traffic light, and also for it to stand out when other people are
looking at it, so basically, I want the looks and the occasional
off-road performance.  I also think that these rectangular worklamps
look better than round or rectangular off-road lights, but that's me,
and after hearing about the fire truck that didn't have the power for
the lamps, I'm not gonna take that route anyway

The other thing is that there are huge price gaps between the really
awesome bumpers/tires and simple off-road lights, so I would probably go
with the lights first and then upgrade the bumpers/tires.

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From: Mohammed Taheri <mrbeans@bellsouth.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 22:08:47 -0400
Subject: Re: cheap alternative/2

SPYDERS wrote:
> I didn't mean to sound negative on the whole idea, I think the suggestion of
> using 110VAC lights from Home Depot through an inverter just struck me as a
> bad idea and I wanted to save humankind from doing that kind of jury-rigging.
> Dave runs brighter bulbs, so do I, though not quite as bright as his... and
> they do make a big difference. Big enough that I will continue to be like a
> Dutch Tulip Farmer and search far and wide for good bulbs.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)]
> electrical accesories.
> so that makes it .04

Thanks again for the info!

Mohammed Taheri
'95 Discovery

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From: Mohammed Taheri <mrbeans@bellsouth.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 22:10:41 -0400
Subject: Re: cheap alternative

Peter M. Kaskan wrote:
> Mohammed, have you priced an  DC/AC inverter? Last I looked they aren't
> cheap. I seem to remember that in JC Whitney they ran from 100 or so for
> really small ones to about 5 or 6 hundred. Four of those 300 watters will
> suck (300watts x 4 /12volts) 100 amps from that inverter - That's a lotta
> juice!    Peter

Wow!  Therefore, you could buy 4 $100 lights and a good light bar and
still have some money left over.  Ok, so that means that the real way is
the way to go.

Mohammed Taheri
'95 Discovery

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From: Mohammed Taheri <mrbeans@bellsouth.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 22:17:53 -0400
Subject: off-road lights

While looking for off-road lights, I found an amazing source, the prices
are what make it amazing, this has to be the way to go.  The URL is
"http://www.rinto.com"  Bye.

Mohammed Taheri
'95 Discovery

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From: Jarvis 64 <Jarvis64@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 22:42:04 EDT
Subject: Re:  Jerry cans

Are the swiss ones like the British ones?  I have a Brit one I got a few years
ago for about $10 w/ a British army shovel for another whoppint $5, but, of
course, have no recollection whatsoever of where I got them.  If the swiss
ones are the same (w/ the hinged lid that NEVER leaks), I'll have to get some.

Bill

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From: David Russell <David_R@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 23:36:40 -0400
Subject: Hydraulic Fluid level/Clutch Master

Before overhauling my clutch master cylinder, I just wanted to check that
I'm headed in the right direction.

Under the circumstances to be described, my clutch and brakes work well,
the only difference being the location of some hydraulic fluid.

When I fill up my fluid resevoir, I have a slow leak of hydraulic fluid
down the clutch pedal onto my shoe and then the floorboard. This continues
until the entire resevoir level drops to about 1/3 or 1/4 full. At this
point, the leakage appears to stop.

Is this indicative of the need for a simple overhaul or is there some other
problem?

Does anyone have a suggestion for a commonly available tube (as described
in the repair manual) to be used when clearing the clutch hydraulics after
an overhaul?

TIA

David Russell
1997 Discovey SD 5-speed
90% of the pieces needed for a 1969 SIIA "Bugeye" 88" SW Petrol
1965+/- SIIA 109" P/U Diesel, "Loo" (Thanks DaveB)
1977 Toyota FJ40 Land Cruiser (sort of)
http://www.mindspring.com/~david_r

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From: "Bill Fishel" <bfishel@cisnet.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 13:46:28 -0400
Subject: Re:    ><Re:  Weird Characters>

From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 01:02:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re:  Weird Characters

><Re:  Weird Characters>

I'm surrounded by weird characters, what should I do???

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
Pittsburgh, Pa.

Russ
I'm sure the coilers with the rusting problems would say 
take your own advice.

"That or a quick pistol shot right behind the ear."

Sorry I missed the gathering at your place Thursday.

Bill Fishel

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From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 21:46:58 -0700
Subject: Re: Re: 88" IIA sn244xxxxxE is a 1966

One is drivable and running - $500 Canadian

Yes this is real

David
but who wants a series I anyways?
wahooadv@earthlink.net

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From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 21:51:37 -0700
Subject: Re: Jerry cans

About Jerry cans.........
I bought 2 sets of Russian Parts Cleaning Kits - here near Seattle.
They contained 2 six litre tanks, a parts cleaning kit (with the WW2
brushes, scrubbers and all) and a tray that holds them - all for $20
The cans do not leak and they are a dead ringer for miniature Jerry cans -
working the same as the larger British can.

For what it is worth.......

David

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From: "FHYap" <FHYap@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 22:01:46 -0700
Subject: Re: 88" IIA sn244xxxxxE is a 1966

> PS: The man I visited today also has two 1955 88" LRs, in terrible shape.
> I've never seen a 1955 in Canada!

Are you sure they were 88s and 1955?  I believe the 88s didn't start until
1956.

Frank

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From: "FHYap" <FHYap@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Apr 1998 22:12:57 -0700
Subject: Re: Bumper heights, wheel size, etc.

> I wonder about the reason LR moved the headlights outboard in the late
> '60's. Neither Jeep CJ's nor Toyota LC's moved at that time. Both new US
> regs and Australian regs are sometimes sighted as the reason. Were the
> LR headlights closer than Jeep or Toyota so that they alone had a
> problems, or did LR mis-understand the new regulations, or what?

Don't know how true the statement is but LRO May 1998 at page 22 notes: "As
a matter of interest, the reason why the headlamps moved to the wings is
that US Federal regulations (introduced in 1968) insisted that the main
lamps gave a good indication of the width of the car.  They clearly didn't
when they were alongside the grille, so they had to be changed."

Perhaps the pronounced lower fenders of the Jeep and LC made the
difference?

Frank

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From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 07:58:31 +0100
Subject: RE: volcanoes

Poas sounds interesting.  Of the big ones, you tend to hear of (in TV
programs, books, or case studies) you hear of the ones in the US or Europe.
In the case of the latter, there'll be at least once civilisation
destroyed.

Re. Mt. Baker:  I've flown over it (scheduled airline flight). We passed
over Mt. St. Helens - but I'd seen it before the pilot gave it out on the
intercom. I knew we'd probably fly close to it - I even had my camera
ready! :-)
(yes, you can tell it from the others - there's a lot of grey ash still
visible, and lack of snow)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109)

------------

Being a "trained" geologist, I've done my time on the UK's moors and =
wilder
parts, albeit on foot.   Our volcanoes are a bit older. Most spectacular
being the Black Cuillins on Skye - only 57 Million Years since it was
active! But then it does mean I've walked inside a magma chamber! :-)
[]  That sounds just great. We have also older ones, cant give you =
numbers, but they are dead. We also have the one with the largest crater =
  []  in the world, the Poas, and it is semi-active still.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

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From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 08:12:03 +0100
Subject: Re: Jerry cans

>Jerry Can

Is that a correctly located Spice Girl?

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR with Bosnian Bits)

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From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 08:24:12 +0100
Subject: FFR: Problems solved?

Hi all!

I   *think* I've solved my problems...

The BK relay was indeed sticking on. Tried adjusting two of the screws - no
use.
Then I followed up an idea of my father's: maybe the coil experienced a
huge current in the past, and the core of the emagnetic had become
magnetised. Apparently this was a common problem in the old Post Office
relays (all digital now - similar circumstances give you fried chips).
The solution is/was to put some tape over the end of the emagnetic. The
idea is that tiny thickness is thin enough for the relay to still work, but
thick enough to remove some of the extra "stickkiness".
Anyway, tried it with insulation tape - and it seems to have worked!

I'm still a bit paranoid - eg. when I connect my earth to the batteries, I
get a tiny spark (can't measure any current, so it might be decoupling
capacitors charging)

Good news, is that a "surge" on the ammeter under certain conditions (poor
idle, putting your foot down) has gone. I'd already explained this to
myself in terms of the relay sticking on (ie. it should be releasing itself
during the poor idle).

Anyway, I drove to work with it, but with the case of the top off the
batteries, and the two panels need tightening up.

As for the high current surge that the new genny panel has experienced:  I
do know something about the donor vehicle.  About 1yr ago, is was sold at
auction, coming back from Bosnia as a non-runner.  The starter motor was in
the back - pointing to a starting problem. I bought the FFR bits bar the
generator (already had one of those), knowing that the starter motor was
probably dead [still hoping to check it and rebuild it sometime].
Maybe there was somekind of short in the starter motor/solenoid area...

Now it needs some attention for the MoT. Brakes are much better after
yesterday's adjustments.
Number plate light now working. New hazard light switch on order. Just need
to restore my seatbelts [I'm not going to get that new bracket made in
time),  new rear shocks, a working speedo, and I've just noticed my rear
chassis might need a little welding :-(

Thanks everyone who gave suggestions and hints!
I hope to have some diagrams from my exploits on my WWW page in the next
few weeks. I have also taken some photos of the inside of the panels. I'll
annotate these and add them too.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

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From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 08:25:43 +0100
Subject: Re: Parabolic springs

They're meant to be a parabolic shape - rather than the semi-elliptical
shape of conventional springs.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

SPYDERS@aol.com on 04/26/98 07:59:52 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Re: Parabolic springs

Does anyone know what is *parabolic* about parabolic springs? Does the axle
describe a parabola in traveling up & down when going over bumps, or does
it
have to do with the shape, or what?
I saw the pictures of them on that www. page and the leaves looked pretty
straight from center to bush (not flat from end to end), with a gap between
the leaves, under no load. Maybe under load they look "parabolic"?
pat.

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From: Duncan Phillips <dunk@ivanhoe.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 09:38:07 +0100
Subject: Land Rover Deaths

On the front page of our local newspaper on Saturday wa the following
headline:

Father & Son Die In Crash

Turns out that they were driving along in a soft-top LR when they hit a
5-ft wall and flipped the vehicle over. 3 others survived as they were
thrown clear, but the father and son were trapped underneath and pronounced
dead at the scene. 

I have a related question - would a hard-top have faired any better in a
flip/roll or should I consider getting a roll bar (not that I intend to
roll my motor).

I'll be interested to hear whether it was a mechanical failure that caused
the accident (brakes/steering??) or if it was driver error (forced or
otherwise).

I'm sure you'll join me in offering condolences.....
*******************************
Duncan Phillips
1980 SWB SIII 'Evie'
http://Gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~cmtdmp/play/lrover/
*******************************
Big Bad n' Blue

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From: Semih Bingol <semih@leo.ee.hun.edu.tr>
Date: Mon, 27 Apr 1998 11:02:59 +0400 (EET DST)
Subject: Re: Land Rover Deaths

On Mon, 27 Apr 1998, Duncan Phillips wrote:

> I have a related question - would a hard-top have faired any better in a
> flip/roll or should I consider getting a roll bar (not that I intend to
> roll my motor).

A hard-top would have made a negligible difference, if any.
I'm seriously thinking about getting a roll-cage to at least protect
the kids travelling at the back.

Semih Bingol
74 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol

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