1948-1998 Land Rover's 50th Anniversary
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From: Lorri Paustian <lorri@sound.net> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 04:21:56 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: 110 Rust Corrosion Estimate Well, if you have corrosion on your vehicle that will continue to eat through, I think you'd be pretty foolish to not have it taken care of while it is still under warranty. Don't think WD40 will take care of this problem and while being replaced, might as well have it galvanized while you're at it. No point in flaming those of us doing what's covered under warranty. At 11:01 PM 4/20/98 -0400, you wrote: >>>Wow, you situation is identical to ours. >>Better make that 3. We have a D110 coming in Thursday for corrosion >>warranty work, same situation, doors, hinges, big job becasue they want it >>done right,etc. Did the same to another about 3 months ago. >>See ya! >Good god, don't any of you D110 people own any WD 40??? "Oh no, my door >hinges squeek!!..." "Quick, have the butler take the vehicle in to be [ truncated by list-digester (was 24 lines)] >Fort Pitt Land Rover Group >Pittsburgh, Pa. Lorri Paustian, Flatland Rover Society Lenexa, Kansas '95 Coniston Green D90 SW '95 Arles Blue D90 SW '93 D110 ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 07:54:23 -0400
Subject: Re: ENGINEering question
Jeff,
The one thing to watch out for here is the 7:1 vs. 8:1 pushrods.
Yes, there is a difference - two part numbers, one of which is .1" shorter
than the other (8:1 are shorter).
Rumor has it that 7:1 rods used with an 8:1 head may cause cover strikes -
I've never seen it, but just watch out whaen moving it over and adjusting
the valves.
If you want to be really paranoid, replace the pushrods...but I don't know
as I'd bother.
ajr
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]From: Jarvis 64 <Jarvis64@aol.com> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 08:08:38 EDT Subject: 2 for 1 Hello everyone, Installed my Salisbury axle this Friday--took about 7 hrs. if you don't count two trips to the driveline specialists to have an inch taken off my prop shaft each time--duh. It's way quieter than my old Rover axle and has WAY less slop. On to the questions-- #1--Anyone know of a reason that my front right brake shoes rub on the drum (have tried two different newly-turned drums so far)? It's not a steady rub--it's a warped brake drum kind of rubbing. Already ordered a new drum. Before I put it on there and wreck it, is there anything besides a warped drum that can cause this symptom? #2--On the 1-ton shackles does the raised bit around the pin hole on the one end go in (toward the spring or body) or out? Thanks all, Bill Rice 64 SIIA 109 SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org Date: Tue, 21 Apr 98 08:36:10 EST Subject: Re[2]: 110 Rust Corrosion Estimate russ w ranted: >Good god, don't any of you D110 people own any WD 40??? "Oh no, my door >hinges squeek!!..." "Quick, have the butler take the vehicle in to be >serviced, and have all of those nasty brown bits replaced!" ... hey russ! If I paid 45,000 clams for my ride I'd do the same thing... but really all these folks complaining about corrosion oughtta take a trip to the local galvanisers...and put some freakin waxoyl on the chassis. I think the aluminum on the newer models is less durable than the old stuff. My SIII came from the darkest depths of the salt belt (Potsdam NY) and the doors are not bad. I've seen newer models where the paint is already bubbling on the outside of the doors from the steel inside. My SIII is just starting to show the same symptoms, but you REALLY have to look for it. later Dave"and they call ME obnoxious"B. ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org Date: Tue, 21 Apr 98 08:48:38 EST Subject: Re: Set up "shoots" - limited LR content >TV - reality...do not confuse them or you will be trying jumps in your Land >Rover!!! what's wrong with that?!? You see Land Rovers airborne all the time in the magazines. I personally was in a Land Rover that was airborne, and I assure you it was not set up for TV. Just ask Jeff Berg. later DaveB ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 09:05:32 -0400
Subject: D110 Rust
Dear all,
Getting your Rover repaired on LRNA's wallet is cool, but I think
the email might have been talking about people who may be under that false
impression that their NAS 110 is not going to rust. Getting it fixed is
different than complaining that it did in the first place. They are going
to rust.. it is a Land-Rover! ;-) There are a lot of people that own Rovers
for all the "wrong" reasons who are a little un-realistic about the
subject. Obviously no one on this list!! ;-)
See ya!
From: EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone 207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com
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]From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com> Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 01:01:06 -0600 Subject: Re: Rear Suspension Cameron, It sounds like a combination of problems. You probably need new shocks due to weak springs. The "flapping" noise sounds like the leafs are loose in their pack or are totally gone. I would recomend looking at parrabolic leafs. Especially if you do mostly pavement driving. They really are wonderfull. As for shocks...Go local, go Old Man Emu. They really are the best suited to Land Rovers as an after market fit. Good Luck John ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Paul Gussack" <pcg@tennis.org> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 06:58:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: spotting in charleston Was on vaction in Charleston SC. Spotted two SWB rovers one in Isle of Palms and one on east bay downtown. The East Bay was a real beauty in great shape. Spotted another 109 with michigan plates cruising down King street. I also saw more Range Rovers and Disco's than I have ever seen on the street! The dealer in Charleston area must be selling like a big dog. Any list members own these gems? Paul G SIII SWB "Grendal" ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Gregspitz <Gregspitz@aol.com> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 10:05:26 EDT Subject: Re: 110 Rust Corrosion Estimate tsk tsk tsk...class warfare will get you nowhere!!!! ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Terje Krogdahl <tekr@nextel.no> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 16:25:43 +0200 (MET DST) Subject: Re: Different ways to galvanise On Mon, 20 Apr 1998, Tim Harincar wrote: > My bulkhead, from a '69, was hot dipped before I bought it. I had no > problems getting it to fit, though I did have to drill out a number of > holes and re-tap the door hinge captive nuts. I had it painted, and was This has always puzzled me. Why don't people remove the hinge nuts before they galvanize their bulkheads? On my SIII the nuts are easy to remove, (in fact I just replaced two) so why go through the pain of re-tapping? Is the nut different on a IIa? On SIII it's just a big square nut with sort of a clip on it to retain it. -- Terje Krogdahl Norwegian Land Rover Club www.land.rover.no SIII 88" 2.25 petrol ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Chris Dillard"<cdillard@Aholdusa.com> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 10:24:49 -0400 Subject: Re: spotting in charleston I don't know about the Charleston area, but if you think they have a "TON" of rovers there you need to visit the upstate of SC. Greenville/Greer area is pretty much teaming with Disco's. There are also a few 90's and a few Classic and newer RR's. Since the BMW factory is in Greer, and since BMW owns Rover they have a special lease program (around $300 insurnace included) for the discos, so they're everywhere. It's funny to drive through the BMW parking lot and see so many Disco's. Half of the people who drive them have NO IDEA what they have it's mostly just a status deal. When I see some of them in town If I honk, flash, or wave at them they look at me like I'm some wierdo/freak (which I might be) and they flip their noses at my RR equiped with Roof rack, Dents and scratches (uhh, I mean beauty marks), CB Antenna, and hella's. (and she's usually muddy and grimy). They look like they can't believe that I let my rover get so dirty and not keep it showroom wahsed. It's kind of fun though. If your ever in the area, give me a call and we'll have a few beers. Cheers, Christopher Dillard 91 RR County (Emily) Databse Administrator Phone: 864-987-8633 BONUSCARD Marketing Fax: 864-675-5456 Ahold USA (BI-LO Inc.) E-Mail:cdillard@aholdusa.com Greenville SC USA ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 10:33:32 -0400
Subject: Engine health
LT J Jackson" <lt_j_jackson@unixlink.uscga.edu> wrote:
>Question 1: Can I take the 8:1 head off my current engine and bolt it
>onto the "newer" block?
There are no real differences...except the head.
>Question 2: How can I accurately diagnose the real condition of the spare
>engine? It's sitting on blocks without a starter or ancillaries (dist, oil
>filter, etc), so I can't run it. What can i do to determine whether it's in
>good shape or needs a rebuild?
The best way to discern the "health" of an engine is with a compression
test. The engine needn't be running, but you will need the starter...unless
you can find a 'deck ape' somewhere to spin the starting handle real fast.
Remove all the spark plugs; the engine will spin freely, but you want the
adjacent cylinders open to the atmosphere so you can judge problems. Fit a
compression tester into the spark plug hole, spin the engine and record the
reading after a couple of spins. Book (new) value on an 8:1 is 165#; the
7:1 is around 145, I think. You are looking for high(er), even numbers.
A low reading in one (or all) cylinders means worn rings or valves. Add a
teaspoon of oil to each cylinder and rerun the test. if the pressure comes
up, that's bad - worn/shot rings. if it stays the same, its worn/burnt
valves.
A low reading in adjacent cylinders typically means a blown head gasket
*----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----*
| |
| A. P. ("Sandy") Grice |
| Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. |
| Association of North American Rover Clubs |
| 1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 |
|(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
*----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*
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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 10:33:34 -0400
Subject: Emergency welding
"K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com> wrote:
> I broke my gear shifter off....Matt Tanner, 1992 Camel Trophy alternate,
>used the technique with a Stanley flathead screwdriver as the rod to weld
>the stick back. It is still in use almost a year later...and Stronger than
>ever!!!
Excellent! you may want to keep a spare on hand tho'. The first time I
broke mine, I was in northern Vermont in a -35F blizard (wind chill over a
hundred below). Broke off flush at the ball...in neutral. :-0 After much
trial and tribulation, a local garage welded it up. The second time was
balmy summer weather in a friend's driveway. Closer examination of the
break showed flaws in the crystaline structure of the forging. If it broke
once, it'll probably go again. Cheers
*----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----*
| |
| A. P. ("Sandy") Grice |
| Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. |
| Association of North American Rover Clubs |
| 1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 |
|(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
*----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*
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]From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 10:37:54 EDT Subject: Re: Different ways to galvanise In a message dated 4/21/98 10:33:24 AM Eastern Daylight Time, tekr@nextel.no writes: << This has always puzzled me. Why don't people remove the hinge nuts before they galvanize their bulkheads? On my SIII the nuts are easy to remove, (in fact I just replaced two) so why go through the pain of re-tapping? Is the nut different on a IIa? >> On an original SIIa bulkhead yes, it is different. There is a nut plate with 2 captive nuts on it for the top and bottom hinges. If they go South, they can be replaced with a SIII type nut Nate ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Peter Venters <venters@atm.ox.ac.uk> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 15:50:31 +0100 (BST) Subject: Re: overdrives in S1s Sean, Bjornung, For what it's worth, I can confirm that Fairey overdrives do fit a 1955 S1 xfer box, in exactly the same way as for a SII/SIIA xfer box. You will also need to cut a small hole in the transmission tunnel for the gear lever - the instructions come with the unit. The overdrive gives you an optional extra 27% gear reduction, and makes travelling at "speed" significantly more bearable. I would not be without one. It also helps to splitting ratios when towing, and for quickly changing into gear (e.g. at traffic lights) without a spine-tingling crunch from any remaining first gear teeth. The reliability of the Fairey overdrive seems to be a bit controversial: Ive had mine for 11 years, probably some 50000-70000 miles. About a third of that has been driven by the original 2l petrol, a third by a SIII 2.25 diesel and a third by a 3l Perkins diesel (which has the same power and significantly more torque than the 2.6l LR petrol). No problems to date (I did change to semi-synthetic gear oil a few years ago after a friend of mine fried his overdrive with prolonged high speed, flat-out operation at 85 bhp). If you are worried you can always put the old transfer box backplate in your tool box in case the overdrive fails. Hope this helps, Peter (86" 1955 S1) ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 09:03:25 -0500
Subject: Confused with terms :-{
This may seem a little too basic, but it is just a question of language:
What exactly do you people call the "bulkhead" ?
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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 10:14:05 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Confused with terms :-{
On Tue, 21 Apr 1998, Luis Manuel Gutierrez wrote:
> This may seem a little too basic, but it is just a question of language:
> What exactly do you people call the "bulkhead" ?
The steel thing that the front door hinges are on, generally called a
firewall on other vehicles. The thing behind the seats is often called a
bulkhead as well, but people are usually clear about which one they are
talking.
david
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From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 09:23:16 -0500
Subject: RE: Confused with terms :-{
Thank you.
I supposed it, but I wasn't sure.
The normal term here would be the firewall, but part of the fun is being
diferent.Or not?
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From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 16:48:00 +0100
Subject: RE: Confused with terms :-{
And then there's the "Rear Bulkhead" or "Passenger Bulkhead".... :-)
this is the bit just behind the two/three front seats. The panelling is
very flimsy for a bulkhead, the but the top is good and strong.
Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)
---------------------------------------
Thank you.
I supposed it, but I wasn't sure.
The normal term here would be the firewall, but part of the fun is being
diferent.Or not?
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From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 09:23:16 -0500
Subject: RE: Confused with terms :-{
Thank you.
I supposed it, but I wasn't sure.
The normal term here would be the firewall, but part of the fun is being
diferent.Or not?
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]From: Paul Wakefield - Serco <Paul.Wakefield@esrin.esa.it> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 17:51:06 +0200 (MET DST) Subject: RR wheels on a series III - Frightening. Ron Wrote: : If the SIII is fitted with free-wheel hubs, you won't without cutting the : centres out. I saw a SIII last weekend with Rangie steel rims fitted. They : looked terrible with the roughly cut holes. I hope he informed his insurance company of this 'modification' Should roughly triple his premium I would have thought :-) Cheers, Paul. ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Wakefield - Serco <Paul.Wakefield@esrin.esa.it> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 18:01:47 +0200 (MET DST) Subject: re: Engine wear - a tourists guide. "LT J Jackson" <lt_j_jackson@unixlink.uscga.edu> Wrote. : Question 2: How can I accurately diagnose the real condition of the spare : engine? It's sitting on blocks without a starter or ancillaries (dist, oil : filter, etc), so I can't run it. What can i do to determine whether it's in : good shape or needs a rebuild? I would tear it down partly whilst you have the engine out of the truck. I would rather look now than do another engine removal further down the line. As suggested, at the very least remove the head. 1) Inspect for wear ridges around the top of the cylinders. 2) Check for ovality of the bores using an internal micrometer (hire or borrow one), check if within factory specs. Personally, I would remove the sump also at this stage and pull the pistons. Leave the crank where it is. Check the conrod bearings, piston rings and piston condition. If the bearings are trashed or the conrod crank journals are worn (use micrometer), then think about pulling the crank. If the cylinder wear is acceptable, gently glaze bust the cylinder walls and replace the piston rings. If the cylinder wear is unacceptable then only expensive options ensue. This of course is all dependent on your ability and willingness to do the diagnostic work. If this all sounds like hard work, and if you see significant wear, I would go for a short block replacement. Here endeth the rough guide to engine reconditioning ! Apologies for the gaping omissions :-) Paul. ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 09:48:44 -0700 Subject: Firewall - words That comes from the grand old days of areoplanes and steam driven vehicles. Just remember that a steam locomotive NEEDS a firewall. David Oh, I always liked the term firewall (rather than bulkhead) - after all - when was the last real working "steam roller" or a "chew - chew" train (words many of us still use and teach to our children). Old words in our modern language retain the heritage and value of our past. "Head" on the boat is the same thing. ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Peter Venters <venters@atm.ox.ac.uk> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 15:50:31 +0100 (BST) Subject: Re: overdrives in S1s Sean, Bjornung, For what it's worth, I can confirm that Fairey overdrives do fit a 1955 S1 xfer box, in exactly the same way as for a SII/SIIA xfer box. You will also need to cut a small hole in the transmission tunnel for the gear lever - the instructions come with the unit. The overdrive gives you an optional extra 27% gear reduction, and makes travelling at "speed" significantly more bearable. I would not be without one. It also helps to splitting ratios when towing, and for quickly changing into gear (e.g. at traffic lights) without a spine-tingling crunch from any remaining first gear teeth. The reliability of the Fairey overdrive seems to be a bit controversial: Ive had mine for 11 years, probably some 50000-70000 miles. About a third of that has been driven by the original 2l petrol, a third by a SIII 2.25 diesel and a third by a 3l Perkins diesel (which has the same power and significantly more torque than the 2.6l LR petrol). No problems to date (I did change to semi-synthetic gear oil a few years ago after a friend of mine fried his overdrive with prolonged high speed, flat-out operation at 85 bhp). If you are worried you can always put the old transfer box backplate in your tool box in case the overdrive fails. Hope this helps, Peter (86" 1955 S1) ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: AKBLACKLEY <AKBLACKLEY@aol.com> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 12:38:39 EDT Subject: AP Lockheed Warning Trevor Easton posted the subject warning. Thanks a lot Trevor. I just bought a 69 MGB and the PO used silicon instead of the good ol' Castrol LMA I am used to using. Now I am getting worried. I am posting your note to an MGB list for a reaction there. Has anyone experience with flushing out silicon and replacing with "conventional"? Is there really any cause for concern (AP Lockheed think so..)?. Jim Allen, others your opinions please (and thanks in advance). Cheers, Andy Blackley ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Sean Morrison <seanm@dnai.com> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 09:45:16 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Overdrive on a Series I My Series I has original size tyres and the later 2.0L engine. It seems like the overdrive mechanicals would fit, but what I'm really wondering is how well it would drive? My intention would be driving it in modern traffic without having to be prepetualy worried about being rear-ended. -Sean ~ >I keep reading that the Fairey/Superwinch Overdrive fits 'all models'. ~ >I have a 54 107" Series I. Does anyone knows the pros and cons of ~ >fitting it ~ >with overdrive? Would it even be fesible? ~ >Thanks, ~ >Sean ~ ~ I would would also like to know the answer to this question. I am ~ restoring ~ a LR Series 1 86" with the original engine. What engine and tyre size do ~ you ~ have Sean? ~ ~ Bjrnung Jensen ~ Norway ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Semih Bingol <semih@leo.ee.hun.edu.tr> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 19:53:59 +0400 (EET DST) Subject: Re: Firewall - words > That comes from the grand old days of areoplanes and steam driven vehicles. > Just remember that a steam locomotive NEEDS a firewall. >From what I've figured out, the one that the PO's are unable to remove is called the rear bulkhead :) Agree, the term firewall would be much more appropriate for a series truck, especially in summer. Semih Bingol 74 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 10:57:44 -0500 Subject: More Confussion with terms :-] Why do some of you write: "tyres"? I learned 20 years ago that the right word was "tires". Is this like a UK-US diference? LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ JCCCSA Departamento Legal lgutierr@jccr.co.cr lgutierr@hotmail.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 10:00:39 -0700 Subject: Re: More Confussion with terms :-] It's a difference between the Queen's English and the President's English. C Luis Manuel Gutierrez wrote: > Why do some of you write: "tyres"? > I learned 20 years ago that the right word was "tires". > Is this like a UK-US diference? > LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ > JCCCSA Departamento Legal > lgutierr@jccr.co.cr > lgutierr@hotmail.com [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)] > lgutierr@jccr.co.cr > lgutierr@hotmail.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 10:04:27 -0700 Subject: RE: More Confussion with terms :-] Firewalls Tyres is the U.K. English spelling. There are many more... Colour Vs Color. Aluminium Vs Aluminum. Catalogue Vs Catalog. The list goes on. Firewall may be the more appropriate term, especially with all the Lucas wiring hanging off it... !! Paul in Victoria. ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 13:11:23 EDT Subject: Re: More Confussion with terms :-] In a message dated 4/21/98 1:08:02 PM Eastern Daylight Time, dow@thelen.org writes: It's a difference between the Queen's English and the President's English. C Luis Manuel Gutierrez wrote: > Why do some of you write: "tyres"? > I learned 20 years ago that the right word was "tires". >> Actually Chris, In the President's english it would be "tars" Nate ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 11:45:33 -0500 Subject: Parts interchangeability If I wanted to move the breakfast on a SIII to be flush with the wings (Stage I like), does anybody knows if a Defender bonett would fit? Or would it require major surgery to it? LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ JCCCSA Departamento Legal lgutierr@jccr.co.cr lgutierr@hotmail.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 20:43:24 +0200 Subject: Re: More Confussion with terms :-] Luis Manuel Gutierrez wrote: > Why do some of you write: "tyres"? > I learned 20 years ago that the right word was "tires". > Is this like a UK-US diference? > LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ > JCCCSA Departamento Legal > lgutierr@jccr.co.cr > lgutierr@hotmail.com [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)] > lgutierr@jccr.co.cr > lgutierr@hotmail.com The correct ENGLISH word for the rubber thingys is "tyres", but those who don't speak English (or don't understand the difference) are free to call them "tires" ;-> Regards Paul Oxley http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za http://Adventures.co.za http://AfricanAdrenalin.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 20:46:26 +0200 Subject: Re: Parts interchangeability Luis Manuel Gutierrez wrote: > If I wanted to move the breakfast on a SIII to be flush with the wings (Stage I like), does anybody knows if a Defender bonett would fit? Or would it require major surgery to it? > LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ > JCCCSA Departamento Legal > lgutierr@jccr.co.cr > lgutierr@hotmail.com No, you would have a problem with the "fit" where the bonnet lip closes over the breakfast (radiator holder). This isn't a train smash but would look a little DIY/backyard mechanic. Rather use a 110 breakfast. Regards Paul Oxley http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za http://Adventures.co.za http://AfricanAdrenalin.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 15:32:10 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: 110 Rust Corrosion Estimate >Well, if you have corrosion on your vehicle that will continue to eat >through, I think you'd be pretty foolish to not have it taken care of while >it is still under warranty. Don't think WD40 will take care of this problem >(and no, it's not mud!). The point that was a bit muddy in my first post was that most people would take care of the problem by pulling the cappings off and getting them dipped before it ever got to the point of being a warranty issue. I believe the term is preventative maint. But what the hell, if you can take the beast in and get it fixed for "free" why not. Didn't mean to get everyone's panties in a wad....;) Russ Wilson Leslie Bittner Fort Pitt Land Rover Group Pittsburgh, Pa. ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 15:36:04 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re[2]: 110 Rust Corrosion Estimate >russ w ranted: >>Good god, don't any of you D110 people own any WD 40??? "Oh no, my door >>hinges squeek!!..." "Quick, have the butler take the vehicle in to be >>serviced, and have all of those nasty brown bits replaced!" ... >hey russ! >If I paid 45,000 clams for my ride I'd do the same thing... If you'd paid $45,000 for YOUR truck, I'd drive you to have your head examined. >but really all these folks complaining about corrosion oughtta take a trip to >the local galvanisers...and put some freakin waxoyl on the chassis. This was my point in the first message that I think I made a bit clearer in a reply. Just pay attention and catch it before it ever becomes a warranty issue.. I think the caps look way better galvanised anyway.. >Dave"and they call ME obnoxious"B. you are, but I like you just the same. Russ Wilson Leslie Bittner Fort Pitt Land Rover Group Pittsburgh, Pa. ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org Date: Tue, 21 Apr 98 16:02:52 EST Subject: Re[3]: 110 Rust Corrosion Estimate Russ W. declares: >>If you'd paid $45,000 for YOUR truck, I'd drive you to have your head >>examined. thanks for caring, but you're taking me to literrally. Just like a teacher... re:obnoxious"B. >>you are, but I like you just the same. ok Russ, just stop pissing off the coilers. They can't help the way their trucks are made. I like you too buddy. (big hug) are you going to move to Denver? there's lots of C.S.O.s that would love to hear your opinions in person...watch it or your next high altittude jump may be sans parachute... later Dave"as nasty as I wanna be"B. ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith) Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 16:48:31 -0400 Subject: Spring Cleaning (commercial content) Dear all, We have been moving stuff outside for our "spring cleaning, scratch and dent, get it outta here" sale this Sat. We now have a rough list of stuff that will be available. Email me directly if you would like the list. All will be cheap, and I'd like to see the stuff go to good use, but it can't hang out here anymore. A few complete 109 SWs to old axles. See ya! From: EAST COAST ROVER CO. *Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists* 21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864 207.594.8086 phone 207.594.8120 fax http://www.eastcoastrover.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Lorri Paustian <lorri@sound.net> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 15:34:50 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: 110 Rust Corrosion Estimate Russ, I don't know what your problem is with 110 owners. You have no idea what anyone else's circumstances are, but since you've deemed yourself judge and jury, we just got our 110 about three weeks ago. Our D90s don't have rust because we have taken care of them. The 110 needs some additional work that since it is covered under warrantly, we'll let the dealership take care of. At 03:32 PM 4/21/98 -0400, you wrote: >The point that was a bit muddy in my first post was that most people would >take care of the problem by pulling the cappings off and getting them >dipped before it ever got to the point of being a warranty issue. I >believe the term is >preventative maint. But what the hell, if you can take the beast in and >get it fixed for "free" why not. Didn't mean to get everyone's panties in >a wad....;) [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)] >Russ Wilson >Leslie Bittner Lorri Paustian, Flatland Rover Society Lenexa, Kansas '95 Coniston Green D90 SW '95 Arles Blue D90 SW '93 D110 ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 16:41:31 -0500 Subject: reasonable price? Is it reasonable to pay US$1400 for a Defender bonett ? This is the price for a new one in the LR dealership. ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: IBEdwardp <IBEdwardp@aol.com> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 20:24:30 EDT Subject: Re: More Confussion with terms :-] Firewalls In a message dated 98-04-21 13:12:02 EDT, you write: << Colour Vs Color. Aluminium Vs Aluminum. Catalogue Vs Catalog. >> Shifting spanner Vs Cresent wrench ------------------------------[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 20:50:24 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: 110 Rust Corrosion Estimate >Russ, >I don't know what your problem is with 110 owners. Hey, relax. Ever hear of the word "fun" as in poking fun at someone.... You have no idea what >anyone else's circumstances are, Not everyone's circumstances, but from your given info I have a fair guess as to yours. Hey I'll be man enough to admit that if I could afford to have over $100,000 worth of Rovers parked in the driveway I would. Not that I plan on having anywhere near that amount of cash anytime soon but I would certainly hope that some sudden influx of cash wouldn't drain either my sense of humor or my common sense to know when someone is making a harmless joke.... Russ Wilson Leslie Bittner Fort Pitt Land Rover Group Pittsburgh, Pa. ------------------------------[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 20:52:59 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: reasonable price? >Is it reasonable to pay US$1400 for a Defender bonett ? >This is the price for a new one in the LR dealership. $1400?????? OUCH!!! I'd be looking at some suppliers in the U.K. that could ship you either a new one or one of the places that sell used bits. $1400 is nothing less than obscene. Good luck on finding a something a little more reasonable priced. Russ Wilson Leslie Bittner Fort Pitt Land Rover Group Pittsburgh, Pa. ------------------------------[ <- Message 44 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: asanna <asanna@sacofoods.com> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 19:59:03 -0500 Subject: Re: Spring Cleaning (commercial content) Sned me the list. Thanks. Anthony R. Sanna SACO Foods, Inc. 6120 University Avenue Middleton, Wisconsin 53562 USA asanna@sacofoods.com 1-800-373-7226 (608) 238-9101 ------------------------------[ <- Message 45 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 22:48:49 -0400 Subject: Drive shaft It is normal practise with drive shafts to fit the sliding end at the driven end of the shaft, therefore normally the splined end at the rear is fitted to the gearbox. On the front the spline shaft is normally fitted to the diff since most vehicles spend most of their time in 2 wheel drive therefore the drive shaft is most often driven by the diff. if used in 4 wheel drive more regularly then they should be fitted with the spline to the gearbox. Bill Leacock ( Limey in exile ) NY USA. 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR ------------------------------[ <- Message 46 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 15:42:25 -0500 Subject: Re: Spring Cleaning (commercial content) Hi Mike, You can send me a list. Thanks, Rob car4doc@concentric.net ------------------------------[ <- Message 47 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Vel Natarajan" <vel@enteract.com> Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 21:17:36 -0500 Subject: Re: LR Thefts When I met my '65 SIIA at the port of Newark, and went to go get it out of the fenced-in area, the oh-so-east-coast-friendly dockworker came in and said, "All of the Land Rover's are dead!" Damn I thougth to myself. I knew that generator light coming on, on my drive down to Southampton was a bad sign. :-). I hopped in mine, turned the ignition key, and saw the gauges jump to attention. I set the choke, pushed the starter, and she came to life... I thought about it only for about 1/2 a second, and realized... they didn't know about the push-button starters hidden below the ignition key. Doh! I'm moving to downtown Chicago this summer from the burbs, and have no real fear of my Series LR being stolen (there's not even a radio in there). My greatest fear is having the battery stolen, so I plan to put in a lock/latch on the bonnet. I mean how many Chicago-city thieves are going to be capable of shifting with their left hand, double-clutching, and turning the steering wheel on a vehicle with no power steering...AFTER trying to start the darn thing... In the UK, it's another matter of course... ------------------------------[ <- Message 48 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "R. Wade Hughes" <hughes@stybba.ntc.nokia.com> Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 09:46:36 +0300 (EETDST) Subject: Lucas "Ranger" Driving Lights Hello List: Was at an auto flea-market last Sat. & bought a set of Lucas "Ranger" driving lamps/headlights; clear, not amber like "fog" lights. Would anybody happen to know any history/date concerning these? Below is a clip describing them: They've got a shallow chrome-plated body. The glass lens is unusual in that it is truly clear, no prism paterning to diffuse the beam. Just has in the glass "Lucas", "Ranger" in large written script, & "M5", & "5LR Made in England" on the bottom. The mirror is fixed to the lens by a wrap-over around the circumfrence, and the bulb stands upright within. In front there's a metal shade over the bulb, but there's an open spot where the filament is. Greetings Wade in Finland ------------------------------[ <- Message 49 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk> Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 09:14:46 +0100 Subject: Re: More Confussion with terms :-] Yes. It is "tyres". The Americans can't spell! :-) (also we invented the dictionary, so we must be right) Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) lgutierr@jccr.co.cr on 04/21/98 04:57:44 PM Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com cc: (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC) Subject: More Confussion with terms :-] Why do some of you write: "tyres"? I learned 20 years ago that the right word was "tires". Is this like a UK-US diference? LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ JCCCSA Departamento Legal lgutierr@jccr.co.cr lgutierr@hotmail.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 50 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Said Geoffrey at MITTS" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt> Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 10:15:53 +0100 Subject: RE:D110 Rust I think that if you can have the rust repaired under warranty is very good as this will eliminate future hassle In my opinion modern Landrovers are more prone to rust then older Ser II and III. I think that quality control and Solihull is not good at all and by BMW taking over there is the possibility that quality control will improve. Landrovers after all are cars which are made of steel and aluminium. Therefore if not well protected steel will in due time rust. There is no way to change that unless you use preventive measures like underseal and oil based products to inject in chassis and bulkhead. Any response?? Geoffrey Malta ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith): >Dear all, > Getting your Rover repaired on LRNA's wallet is cool, but I think >the email might have been talking about people who may be under that false >impression that their NAS 110 is not going to rust. Getting it fixed is >different than complaining that it did in the first place. They are going >to rust.. it is a Land-Rover! ;-) There are a lot of people that own Rovers >for all the "wrong" reasons who are a little un-realistic about the [ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)] >207.594.8086 phone 207.594.8120 fax >http://www.eastcoastrover.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 51 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk> Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 09:38:46 +0100 Subject: FFR Charging lights (I'm sending copies to both lists, as I did this for my original posting - if no one is interested on the main list, I'll switch to just using the UK list for this problem) Got it running lastnight!!! The story so far: Strange overcharging problem. Blew the lights and boiled the batteries. Fitted new lights all round, and a new blinker (Lucas couldn't x-ref the Rover number, but they could the Hella number - it was a Hella unit!). New batteries. Fitted the spare genny panel and shunt panel I had lying around. This replaced the moving-contact regulator with the later transistorised beastie. No surge unit is fitted. I removed the cabling off the second shunt panel for the Unitary Radio Pack (this was removed on my original shunt panel). Comparing the two shunt panels, the decoupling capacitor on the "radio" ammeter is located in a different place. Circuit diagrams and the old panel had it on the Unitary RP side of the shunt resistor/ammeter. The new one, has it on the other side. Note: The (+) terminal on the top comes from this side of the shunt. Ie. the ammeter and shunt aren't connected to anything. The decoupling capacitor is across the terminals on the top. Anyway, started things up... All lights are now working except for the number plate lamp. I noticed a possible dodgy connection when I changed the bulb on this - so, no surprises. Blinker works. The lamp inside the Hazard *Switch* is dead. The switch works fine, and flashes the indicators and the indicator bulb on the main dash. Kenlowe fan doesn't, but I've since found one of the fuses has blown on this. (I think its the fuse for the override - I was running with this ON at the time everything blew). Engine starts fine and runs fine - when I remember to pull the choke out! :-) The vehicle ammeter is regulating as regards engine speed/accelerator movement, and stays low (guessing at about 5Amp charge). If its burbling along in idle (I may have my idle set too low?), then putting my foot on the accelerator, it shoots up, before settling down to the regulated value. Now the strange bits: 1.) When connecting the batteries up, I get a little fizzing - ie. some current is flowing, even though everything is off. 300mA setting on the ammeter gives a reading of about 500-700mA (no, I don't know how this is possible). The 10A setting gives about 0.01A (ie. lowest possible). Tracing this to the fuse box, this current is being drawn through the fuse for the Hazards and the Brake Lights. 2.) When everything is connected, the Charge Lamp is OFF. I start things - with the engine running, it is OFF. I turn the engine off. The Charge Lamp flashes (eg. as it its stalling with the key "on"), then stays ON. This is on properly - not a dim glow. Disconnecting the batteries and reconnecting, the Charge Lamp goes off. What is the panel's opinion on this one then? I decided not to risk it until I understood the problem better, so I walked into work today. My father's thoughts: the temperature unit on the Kenlowe is playing up. I have my suspicions about whether this is on, but surely it isn't getting any power? (haven't checked yet) To me it sounds a bit like a relay (solid state or otherwise) is sticking on? Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) ------------------------------[ <- Message 52 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "P.Ridd" <oss02b@bangor.ac.uk> Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 11:07:12 +0100 Subject: Sapnish over drives Does any body know whether it is still possible to buy overdrives manufacures in spain, (possibly called a Toro Overdrive). In Australia where I'm from these overdrives had a better reputation for longevity than the fairey overdrives : they are physically much more robust Peter Ridd ------------------------------[ <- Message 53 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Said Geoffrey at MITTS" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt> Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 12:25:02 +0100 Subject: RE:Spring Cleaning (commercial content) Can you please email me he list Geoffrey ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith): >Dear all, >We have been moving stuff outside for our "spring cleaning, scratch and >dent, get it outta here" sale this Sat. We now have a rough list of stuff >that will be available. Email me directly if you would like the list. All >will be cheap, and I'd like to see the stuff go to good use, but it can't >hang out here anymore. A few complete 109 SWs to old axles. [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)] >See ya! >From: EAST COAST ROVER CO. >*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists* >21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864 >207.594.8086 phone 207.594.8120 fax >http://www.eastcoastrover.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 54 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980422 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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