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From: Peter Goundry <peterg@aircast.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 07:14:11 -0400
Subject: Re Shipping from the UK

See 

www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/rules/import/

for vehicle importation guidelines

Peter Goundry

------------------------------

From: Lodelane <Lodelane@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 07:49:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Binding Brakes (will it ever be done)

Steve,

You might want to check your master cylinder again.  Had a problem on a truck
where the actuator rod from the pedal was a bit out of adjustment.  Would not
allow the spool valve in the cylinder to center, so the fluid remained under
slight pressure, causing the brakes to stay on.

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 08:38:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Taillights/safari/fog lights

In a message dated 4/18/98 3:55:39 PM, you wrote:

>Regarding colors of lights on LRs, what is meant in the LR context by "safari
>lights" and "fog lights"?  Just wondering.

Lately, the terms just seem to be "Mahhketing" strategy to get RR & Disco
owners to shell out extra $$ for lights unnecessary. Sometimes extra
illumination *is* necessary, but the type added is best determined by the
owner after the need is felt, so that the proper type and orientation can be
determined.

It is kinda ironic how the dealers try to get them to put on quasi-useless-in-
everyday-situations when a simple work/reversing light mounted on the rear
will come in much handier; loading kids and groceries, backing into bicycles
with precision, etc.

pat
93  110

------------------------------

From: Olafur Agust Axelsson <olafura@rhi.hi.is>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 11:45:21 +0000
Subject: Icelandic LR awakening

At last Icelandic LR fans have came to there senses - the first LR club
ever is about to be establised - Ok it is inspired by the upcoming birthday
- but it is for real!

Last weekend every LR owner in the country was invited to a pre-opening of
LR-exhibition that the importer is having these days.

It is now obvious that the future of Icelandic LRs is as bright as the sun!

:-)

OA

------------------------------

From: "Dean Sheppard" <dsheppard@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 15:05:06 +0100
Subject: subscribe dsheppard@btinternet.com

subscribe dsheppard@btinternet.com

------------------------------

From: Olafur Agust Axelsson <olafura@rhi.hi.is>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 13:24:15 +0000
Subject: Changing earth!

Hi!
I was reading TeriAnns webpage on http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman/ and how
she changed her Lr from positive earth to negative - the page says - (hope
she is Ok with it!)

>Took a length of insulated wire and connected one end to the battery's
positive terminal.
>Touched the other end of the wire to the field (F) terminal of the
generator a couple of
>times. This generally produces a spark. Removed the wire from the battery.
That
>operation repolarized the generator.

Is the procedure any different if I have a Dynamo?

OA

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
olafura@hi.is	    http://www.hi.is/~olafura

"Don't take life so seriously 
		... it's not permanent."

------------------------------

From: mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marcus Tooze)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 09:53:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Changing earth!

duces a spark. Removed the wire from the battery.
> That
> >operation repolarized the generator.
> Is the procedure any different if I have a Dynamo?
> OA
> - - - 

A dynamo IS a generator. Same thing, different names.

M

------------------------------

From: "LT J Jackson" <lt_j_jackson@unixlink.uscga.edu>
Date: 20 Apr 1998 11:25:29 -0400
Subject: ENGINEering question

I have a great opportunity to jump in over my head, mechanically, and do some
semi-complicated engine work.

My SIII 88 has a good-nuff 2.25 gas engine.   It's worn  - I get some blow-by
oil through the filler cap, and friends who've followed me down the road say
that it "smells a bit" - but it doesn't blow smoke (unlike my friends) except
at start-up.  It also has a fairly young head with stellite valves.  I drove
it 400 miles this weekend at 60-65 mph, did some fairly strenuous off-roading,
and drove it to work on Monday.  By all accounts, I should be content.  But...

I recently stumbled into a deal which resulted in acquiring a 2.25 engine
which, reportedly, has only 39K miles on it.  It now sits in my garage.  The
down-side is that it's got a 7:1 head.

Question 1:  Can I take the 8:1 head off my current engine and bolt it onto
the "newer" block?  

Question 2:  How can I accurately diagnose the real condition of the spare
engine?  It's sitting on blocks without a starter or ancillaries (dist, oil
filter, etc), so I can't run it.  What can i do to determine whether it's in
good shape or needs a rebuild? 

Thanks in advance,

Jeff

------------------------------

From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 08:55:05 -0700
Subject: Tuneup 2.25

I own a 1970 IIA, 2.25 - original engine with 52,000 miles

Two questions to the LR GODS and Demi Gods

What should be my dwell setting? I know what the point gap is - I prefer
dwell
Best set of spark plugs? - opinion/experience

I know this may seem trivial - BUT, I set my LR up over the past four years
in almost isolation.  I only found out last year that I put the fan in
backwards! (worked fine!!!! and I noticed no change!!!!!!!).  I guessed at a
dwell and have been using it.
Any other cool / smart / slick tune up techniques would be appreciated.

I just returned from a 3000 mile trip and got 21 MPG at 50-55 using my
overdrive - I drive slow, I buy old vehicles because I enjoy driving slow -
(you should try sailing 3000 miles to see "slow").

Cheers
David
Wahoo Adventures - Stay at Home Father
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
Ural Motorcycle - S/V KALAKALA, Ingrid 38, ketch

------------------------------

From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 08:50:56 -0700
Subject: Re: ENGINEering question

LT J Jackson wrote:

> Question 1:  Can I take the 8:1 head off my current engine and bolt it onto
> the "newer" block?

To the best of my knowledge yes.

> Question 2:  How can I accurately diagnose the real condition of the spare
> engine?  It's sitting on blocks without a starter or ancillaries (dist, oil
> filter, etc), so I can't run it.  What can i do to determine whether it's in
> good shape or needs a rebuild?

You can do almost all of the standard checks by turning it by hand
Dry and wet compression check, leakdown test (if you've got the
equipment).  In some ways you even have an advantage because if
you want to really know you can partially diassemble it.  If you're
going to swap the head anyway pull the spare head off anyway and have a look.
This will get you a good look at pistons and cam.  You can even
drop the oil pan for a glance at the crank.  Check that for play too.

' lots of stuff to do :)

cheers

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 09:14:25 -0700
Subject: RE: Changing earth!

Dynamo is the English term for generator.  Both put out DC (Direct
current)

Alternators are completely different.  They put out AC (Alternating
Current) which then has to be rectified to DC by using diodes.

Paul in Victoria.

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 12:21:17 EDT
Subject: 50th Anniversary Question

Do we yet know what level of difficulty the trail rides are going to be for
the different time slots?  

Nate

------------------------------

From: Sean Morrison <seanm@dnai.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 09:34:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Overdrive

I keep reading that the Fairey/Superwinch Overdrive fits 'all models'. I
have a 54 107" Series I. Does anyone knows the pros and cons of fitting it
with overdrive? Would it even be fesible?

Thanks,
Sean

------------------------------

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 09:57:32 -0700
Subject: Busy Weekend - Solex Theory

Well, I had a busy weekend.  Reinstalled my radiator & heater, finished
installing the too-long petrol tank - just had to re-drill three holes
in the forward outrigger support.  Wired in the ignition coil, and
presto!  The beast fired up on the first crank of the starter!!

After I had recovered from all of that carbon monoxide filling the
garage :-o  I then pushed the Rover back so that the exhaust was
sticking outside...  I started trying to get it to idle.  I don't mean
idle smoothly, just any idle would make me happy.  The engine will only
run with the cold start unit on, and then it wants to race.  If I close
the cold start lever, the engine stalls.  If I open the throttle, the
engine stalls.

I understand the basics of carburation.  What I don't understand is what
the cold start mechanism on a Solex carburetor does.  It's not a normal
choke.  I figure that if I understand it's operation, I'll be able to
trouble shoot the idle problem that I'm having.  

Does anyone know of any classic Solex problems?  Like the famous warped
Zenith?  I've cleaned out the float bowl and idle jet and plugged any
possible vacuum leaks.  What's to try next?  

One final bit of info.  There is no vacuum advance attached yet.  I
don't have the right fitting for the pipe so I've just plugged the
threaded hole in the carb with a screw for now.

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88 with pictures at:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/
Victoria BC  Canada

------ =_NextPart_000_01BD6C7D.6C07115A
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------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 13:06:00 -0400
Subject: Silicone fluids and dragging brakes

Having recently replaced my front brake shoes which were worn down due to
the cylinders hanging up. I'm posting this tech note that I found on the
Midex site for the interest of other silicone fluid users. BTW I still have
the silicone fluid but replaced all the return springs.I seems we haven't
had the brake fluid thread alive for a while so it's time for a revival.
Usual disclaimers

AP Lockheed - Silicone Brake Fluids -
      Beware

      The AP Lockheed technical service department is receiving an alarming
number of calls from
      motorists reporting problems with silicon brake fluids.

      AP LOCKHEED NEITHER MARKETS SUCH FLUIDS NOR RECOMMENDS
      THEIR USE WITH OUR OWN OR ANY OTHER BRAKING SYSTEM.

      Virtually all of the problems relate to:-

      - Long/spongy pedal

      - Sudden loss of brakes

      - Hanging on of brakes

      They reflect certain properties of silicone fluids identified by us
over any years and recently ratified
      in SAE publications, namely:-

      - high ambient viscosity

      - high air absorption

      - high compressibility

      - low lubricity

      - immiscibility with water

      Research has shown that the relationships between problems reported
and properties identified
      may be expressed as follows:-

      Long/spongy pedal

      (a) compressibility, up to three times that of glycol based fluids

      (b) high viscosity, twice that of glycol based fluids, leading to slow
rates of fill and retention of free
      air entrapped during filling, and hence bleeding difficulties.

      Sudden loss of brakes

      (a) Air absorption. Gasification of absorbed air at relatively low
temperature produces vapour
      lock effect

      (b) Immiscibility (failure to mix) with water. Whilst the presence of
dissolved water will reduce the
      boiling point of glycol based fluids any free water entrapped in
silicone-filled systems will boil and
      produce vapour lock at much lower temperatures(100 C or thereabouts).

      Hanging on of brakes

      (a) Low lubricity. In disc brake systems the sole mechanism for
normalisation if system pressure
      upon release of pedalpressure is a designed-in tendency of seals to
recover to their 'at rest'
      attitude. Low lubricity works against this tendency.

      (b) High viscosity, exacerbating the effect of (a) above.

      It should not be assumed, therefore, that the high price of silicon
fluids implies higher performance
      in hard driving or even normal road use.

      AP Lockheed glycol based fluids do not contain the adverse properties
described above. The
      recently introduced Supreme DOT 5.1, which exceeds the performance
criteria of DOT 5, is
      suitable for all conditions likely to be encountered in moderndriving
conditions.

------------------------------

From: Paul Wakefield - Serco <Paul.Wakefield@esrin.esa.it>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 19:42:50 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: re: gear shifting problems

"Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu> wrote
: I've been having some trouble shifting gears lately. I own a '65
: IIA with a suffic c box. When I pull up at a red light, I put it into
: neutral and then remove my foot from the clutch. When I try to put it into
: first - and this has been the case since I bought it - it grinds.

As well as all of the good advice about non-disengagement of the clutch and the 
various ways this can manifest itself, also maybe check the spigot bush and 
pilot hole in the flywheel. If this bearing siezes, it will spin the input 
shaft 
into the gearbox, giving the same symptoms as a non-disengaging clutch.

Something else to be aware of maybe.

Cheers,

Paul.

------------------------------

From: Tim Harincar <harincar@Camworks.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 12:46:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Different ways to galvanise

My bulkhead, from a '69, was hot dipped before I bought it. I had no
problems getting it to fit, though I did have to drill out a number of
holes and re-tap the door hinge captive nuts. I had it painted, and was
specific that I wanted paint for a galvanized surface. Usually there is
a special primer/sealer that's used. The paint seems to be holding up
well after two years, except that I don't think it was actually primed
(i.e. I got screwed). I've noticed in places that the paint was sprayed
thin and I can see galvanized metal underneath. It was painted with a
duPont paint, I believe.

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@camworks.com
Camworks, St. Paul, MN
http://www.camworks.com
Internet Solutions that Power Business 

------------------------------

From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Bj=F8rnung_Jensen?=" <bjjen13b@online.no>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 19:58:41 +0200
Subject: 50th Anniversary Question

>Do we yet know what level of difficulty the trail rides are going to be for
>the different time slots?

Is this one of the FSQ?  :)

It would be easier if you let us know where you intended to participate.

I can tell you about the trail rides  in Norway? :)

Bjørnung Jensen

------------------------------

From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Bj=F8rnung_Jensen?=" <bjjen13b@online.no>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 20:02:10 +0200
Subject: Re.: Overdrive

>I keep reading that the Fairey/Superwinch Overdrive fits 'all models'. I
>have a 54 107" Series I. Does anyone knows the pros and cons of fitting it
>with overdrive? Would it even be fesible?
>Thanks,
>Sean

I would would also like to know the answer to this question. I am restoring
a LR Series 1 86" with the original engine. What engine and tyre size do you
have Sean?

Bjørnung Jensen
Norway

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 14:06:35 EDT
Subject: Re: 50th Anniversary Question

In a message dated 4/20/98 2:04:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
bjjen13b@online.no writes:

 >Do we yet know what level of difficulty the trail rides are going to be for
 >the different time slots?
 Is this one of the FSQ?  :)
 
 It would be easier if you let us know where you intended to participate.
 
 I can tell you about the trail rides  in Norway? :)
  >>
Sorry 'bout that;  Talking about the ANARC 50th Anniversary gathering at Greek
Peak Ski Area in NY, USA.

Nate

------------------------------

From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 14:20:08 -0400
Subject: Paint codes

The DuPont paint code numbers are the same for Centrai acrylic enamel,
DuLux alkyd enamel or lacquer.  Simply append an "A" to the number for the
Centari, an "L" for lacquer (though I don't know why anyone would want it)
or a "D" for good ol' fashioned DuLux guaranteed to chalk up nice after a
few years of acid rain ;-)  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 13:35:03 -0500 (EST)
Subject: paint in spray cans

While we are talking about paint, is there something available in spray
cans that matches Limestone?  

David

------------------------------

From: Tony Treace <atreace@HASimons.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 12:34:43 -0700
Subject: RE: Overdrive

> >I keep reading that the Fairey/Superwinch Overdrive fits 'all
> models'. I
> >have a 54 107" Series I. Does anyone knows the pros and cons of
> fitting it
> >with overdrive? Would it even be fesible?
> I would would also like to know the answer to this question. I am
> restoring
> a LR Series 1 86" with the original engine. 

	I have a Popular Classics book on Series I restoration in which
they fitted a new Fairey OD to their project truck, a 1954 or 1955 model
I believe. I'm pretty sure that the Fairey unit would work on my 1951
80", the transfer case looks the same as the one on my 1967 IIA (not
sure about the very early 1948-1950 models though).

	Hope this helps,
	Tony Treace
	atreace@hasimons.com

	1967 109 SW
	1951 80 HT

------------------------------

From: Dan & Sally Cantwell <dcantwel@cgo.wave.ca>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 15:21:21 -0400
Subject: Re: paint in spray cans

  If you live in Canada I've found that Canadian Tire's  Armor Coat line in
Recreational White is very close, I don't have any new limestone paint on my
vehicle just the '58 roof (original paint). I used it on my rims and they
came up quite nicely. It's a bit off from the roof but then agian that paint
is badly warn so it just looks like the rims are new and the roof old at
least until the good painting temps arrive and the soft top goes on.
    Good luck,
                Dan. '61 SII 88 HT (soon to be soft top again)

David Scheidt wrote:

> While we are talking about paint, is there something available in spray
> cans that matches Limestone?
> David

------------------------------

From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 13:43:44 -0700
Subject: curing grinding

>From my experience driving 40's and 50's style vehicles (I wish I had a
vehicle with syncro - NOT).  The problem is that most people were raised
with autos or incredible easy to shift foreign cars.
I learned that you always go into second then up into first after you have
been sitting with the clutch pedal out.  It was how I learned on the farm
and how I have always done it....no grinding (or you will end up with a
syncro first that will pop out).  No grinding if you go N to 2 then up to 1.

>From the guy who has no syncro's in first (and on one vehicle with no syncro
at all), no hydraulic lifters, no roll down windows on any of my vehicles.

Cheers
David
Wahoo Adventures - Stay at Home Father
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
Ural Motorcycle - S/V KALAKALA, Ingrid 38, ketch

------------------------------

From: hstin@cts.com (The Brothers Stinson)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 13:54:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Drive Shaft Question

Hello,
        I just got my drive shafts back from the local drive line expert and
something doesn't look right to me.  It may just be me, but, my Series III
drive shafts have a circular end and a thicker more squared off end.  I seem
to remember the squared end mating to the diff and the circular end mating
to the 4x4 selector and e-brake drum.  I've looked at the manuals I have and
none show a clear enough picture.  If this is the case they've been put on
the shafts backwards. Does anybody know off hand?  I assume it makes a
difference due to the differend thickness of the ends. Thanks in advance....

                                                        Henry Stinson
                                                        '73 SWB SHED

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 14:06:31 -0700
Subject: RE: Drive Shaft Question

Don't know if it's any help, but my IIA parts catalogue shows the fat
end of the rear prop shaft facing the diff.  The fat end of the front
shaft faces the transmission.

The fat end is the end with the male portion of the extension slider
(under the rubber boot).

Paul.

------------------------------

From: IBEdwardp <IBEdwardp@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 17:21:32 EDT
Subject: Re: paint in spray cans

In a message dated 98-04-20 14:38:12 EDT, you write:

<< While we are talking about paint, is there something available in spray
 cans that matches Limestone?  
  >>
International Harvester white seems to be pretty close.

------------------------------

From: Gregspitz <Gregspitz@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 17:28:27 EDT
Subject: 110 Rust Corrosion Estimate

For anyone with a 110 ,I have a NAS 93 (of course) 110 and just got the call
after 2.5 weeks at the shop already and Land Rover has approved the $8000 bill
to cover the corrosion around frame, 2 doors and the entire cap to be
replaced.  This will take an additional 6 weeks to complete in Barrington.
The guy has done 3 others in the Chicago area and is the only one in the area
who can do it.  Does this sound familiar to you other 110 owners???  No
problem  as long as they do it right...I have the D90 to drive...
GS

------------------------------

From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 06:27:20 -0400
Subject: Re: ENGINEering question

First check whether your  "new " engine is a Series II unit.Look at the 
underside
of the thermostat housing and compare with your installed engine.Is the housing
deep and round or shallow and tapered. Series II will not swap onto a III. Yes 
you
can swap heads between IIA and III just remember to swap the push rods at the 
same
time.Pull the head off your engine and pop a piston out. Check the bearing 
shells
at the same time to see if they are "showing".

LT J Jackson wrote:

> I have a great opportunity to jump in over my head, mechanically, and do some
> semi-complicated engine work.
> My SIII 88 has a good-nuff 2.25 gas engine.   It's worn  - I get some blow-by
> oil through the filler cap, and friends who've followed me down the road say
> that it "smells a bit" - but it doesn't blow smoke (unlike my friends) except
> at start-up.  It also has a fairly young head with stellite valves.  I drove
> it 400 miles this weekend at 60-65 mph, did some fairly strenuous off-roading,
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 26 lines)]
> Thanks in advance,
> Jeff

------------------------------

From: Lorri Paustian <lorri@sound.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 15:29:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 110 Rust Corrosion Estimate

Wow, you situation is identical to ours.  We will be taking our new 110 in
shortly to discuss what they are going to do about the corrosion.  We are
hoping to galvanize the body capping while they are replacing it.  Don't
know how long it will take to do, but will drive the D90 SW while it's in.
The doors were already dipped in something before we got it.  We'll see how
long that lasts.
At 05:28 PM 4/20/98 EDT, you wrote:
>For anyone with a 110 ,I have a NAS 93 (of course) 110 and just got the call
>after 2.5 weeks at the shop already and Land Rover has approved the $8000 bill
>to cover the corrosion around frame, 2 doors and the entire cap to be
>replaced.  This will take an additional 6 weeks to complete in Barrington.
>The guy has done 3 others in the Chicago area and is the only one in the area
>who can do it.  Does this sound familiar to you other 110 owners???  No
>problem  as long as they do it right...I have the D90 to drive...
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
>problem  as long as they do it right...I have the D90 to drive...
>GS
Lorri Paustian, Flatland Rover Society
Lenexa, Kansas
'95 Coniston Green D90 SW
'95 Arles Blue D90 SW
'93 D110

------------------------------

From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 18:51:26 -0400
Subject: Re: ENGINEering question

>LT J Jackson wrote:
>> I have a great opportunity to jump in over my head, mechanically, and do some
>> semi-complicated engine work.

Hey Jim,
That engine came from a SIIA 1966. It has 39,000 miles, was a one owner,
bought it new situation, sat outside for about 5 months after we took it
out. Owner wanted a new Turner. It ran and drove great (drove it a few
times). Maybe stick some new gaskets and seals in, but no need to strip her
down, unless you want to. ;-) Was one of the better starting Rovers we had
on the lot. It drove here from SC on that engine. Just too lazy to remove
it from the frame your buddy bought, thats all... we are trying to clean up
some of this stuff ya know! :-)
See ya!

From: EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 18:54:31 -0400
Subject: Re: 110 Rust Corrosion Estimate

>Wow, you situation is identical to ours.

Better make that 3. We have a D110 coming in Thursday for corrosion
warranty work, same situation, doors, hinges, big job becasue they want it
done right,etc. Did the same to another about 3 months ago.
See ya!

From: EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

From: Rovergo <Rovergo@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 19:38:52 EDT
Subject: binding brakes

Steve its probably just that your  master cylinder push rod is adjusted to
tight,see that it has about 1/16 play at m/c all should be fine then.
 
Pat Young 
1965 SIIA s/w rhd.

------------------------------

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 11:53:55 -0600
Subject: Re: Welding

Sandy...
I can vouch for the general process first hand...At the 1997 Solihull
National Rally in Red River NM. I broke my gear shifter off....Matt Tanner,
1992 Camel Trophy alternate, used the technique with a Stanley flathead
screwdriver as the rod to weld the stick back. It is still in use almost a
year later...and Stronger than ever!!!

John

------------------------------

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 12:01:33 -0600
Subject: Re: Assistance needed

Have him get in touch with British Northwest. They are located in Olympia,
WA on 306-866-2254
They should be able to help!!
Good Luck
John

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 20:38:55 EDT
Subject: FWIW: Eco Challenge in Oz

To all who care and some who don't:

The Eco Challenge is on The Discovery Channel tonight, 9ET/8CT & 9PT/10MT. I
don't know what it is, but I've seen it mentioned on the list. My sister
called to tell me about it, apparently a commentator called it "The Camel
Trophy of human endurance or something..." and she knew CT was rover
related...

pat
93 110

------------------------------

From: Sean Morrison <seanm@dnai.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 17:41:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Series I Fuel Tank

My fuel tank is leaking quite a bit along the flange that is used to bolt
it to the outrigger. Does any one know of a source for a tank that would
fit a Series I 107"? Or better yet has anyone tried repairing a leak like
this? Suggestions? 

Thanks in advance,
Sean

------------------------------

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 19:55:57 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: FWIW: Eco Challenge in Oz

On Mon, 20 Apr 1998, SPYDERS wrote:

> The Eco Challenge is on The Discovery Channel tonight, 9ET/8CT & 9PT/10MT. I
> don't know what it is, but I've seen it mentioned on the list. My sister

The Eco Challenge is a team race through about 400 miles of Australian
wilderness, via foot, canoe, bike, horseback and climbing rope.  The thing
last about 10 days, during which the teams get maybe 15 hours of sleep.
These people are crazy.  

David/mr sinclair

------------------------------

From: Robert M McCullough <dieselbob@erols.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 20:58:08 -0400
Subject: Re: paint in spray cans

David Scheidt wrote:
> While we are talking about paint, is there something available in spray
> cans that matches Limestone?
> David

You can call Tower Paint 1-800-779-6520. They are in Oshkosh, Wisconsin,
USA and they will make you 16 oz. cans of spray paint. You can get any
rover color you want. For Limestone enamel for instance, tell them you
want 38505d, they will ask the car type: rover, year: 1972, color:
limestone. Thats all there is to it. It does contain lead and states so
on the label. It only takes a few days to have it delivered UPS, one can
goes a long ways and not very expensive either

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 21:02:59 EDT
Subject: SG website?

The Safari Gard www address *is* www.safarigard.com , isn't it?

Anyone having the negative luck I am?

pat
93 110

------------------------------

From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 21:48:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Gear Shifting Problem Resolved (?)

Hi People - Thanks for all the advice. I got under the rover and readjusted
the clutch slave cylinder pushrod. I did not measure to the value it says
in the book - it's essentially is at it's maximum length. This seemed to do
it. But I'm worried I am compensating for something else amiss - I think
the pushrod is too far out - it really cant go anymore. Do you think this
is compensating for a misadjusted clutch mc pushrod?

Thanks again   -   Peter

-----------------------
Peter M. Kaskan
Uris Hall 231
Dept. Of Psychology
Cornell University
607-255-3382
pmk11@cornell.edu
-----------------------

------------------------------

From: Cameron Sear <cameron.sear@bne.com.au>
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 11:57:22 +1000
Subject: Rear Suspension

Does anyone have some wisdom they can share on Land Rover suspension.

I have a 1967 IIA LWB Hard-Top.

Problem : After speed bumps or potholes (etc) the back of the car
bounces and the leafs flap (very noisy). I've been told I need new shock
absorbers, but I'm not sure what type is best for a Land Rover.  Also is
it worthwhile getting the springs replaced or reset at the same time?
If so should I get extra leafs?  Will any of this affect the front?

Thanks,

Cameron Sear
Queensland, Australia.

------------------------------

From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 21:55:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Brake Hyd. & Heat - Resolved (?)

Thanks for the advice all - I readjusted the mc push rod untill there was
about 1/16 free play. Not a solution - after that I had to push my pedal
all the way to the floor!! And, I could pump up the pressure, and a second
or so later it was gone. I then took out the free play, and now it is
better - I don't seem to feel the pressure slowly leaking out. But it has
not been warm enough to test the other issue - binding. I think in the
previous situation, the mc pushrod was way over tight, now it is just
touching. Sound odd to any of you - think it is reassembled incorrectly.
Anyway - it works fine for now.
Thanks again   -   Peter

-----------------------
Peter M. Kaskan
Uris Hall 231
Dept. Of Psychology
Cornell University
607-255-3382
pmk11@cornell.edu
-----------------------

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 22:27:20 EDT
Subject: Re:  Oil vs. Grease (oil wins in this case)

>From the BP website:

"Wheel bearings should be allowed to run wet as designed, so don't pack 
them with grease, but prelube them with diff oil. We sell only greasable 
tie rod ends for early models, to allow extrusion of water. If you know 
your going to do water, boat trailer bearing grease (waterproof) works 
fine in tie rod ends and driveshafts."

Not that I really care to stir this all up again, but I saw it and thought I'd
share it.

pat.

------------------------------

From: Matt Abercrombie <maa0818@ritvax.isc.rit.edu>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 22:42:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Low oil Pressure

I recently asked about checking the idiot light sender and the pressure
gauge sender.  Well, I finally got around to putting a different set of
senders in the truck.  I now think that maybe I should not have.  The idiot
light comes on with the key in the on position, then on start up the light
goes out momentarily then comes back on and stays on.  This is bass ackwards
to any other idiot lights I have had the misfortune of dealing with.  Does
this sound backwards to anyone else?  The gauge showed some sign of life.
It made it all the way up to the first white line above the zero line.  I
guess somewhere around 15 psi?
It is a Smiths Gauge, and I am not sure how much I trust it yet.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.  
Thanks.

Matt Abercrombie
Belfast, Maine USA
'69 88"

------------------------------

From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 23:01:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: 110 Rust Corrosion Estimate

>>Wow, you situation is identical to ours.
>Better make that 3. We have a D110 coming in Thursday for corrosion
>warranty work, same situation, doors, hinges, big job becasue they want it
>done right,etc. Did the same to another about 3 months ago.
>See ya!
Good god, don't any of you D110 people own any WD 40???   "Oh no, my door
hinges squeek!!..."  "Quick, have the butler take the vehicle in to be
serviced, and have all of those nasty brown bits replaced!"  From what I've
seen the best rust  preventative is mud.  I'm just happy when my truck
doesn't rattle so loud that the person behind me in traffic can hear it.  I
guess when you don't have things like broken carbs and rattling door tops
to play with you start looking for things to fix.

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
Pittsburgh, Pa.

------------------------------

From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 20:06:44 -0700
Subject: Re: SG website?

I talked to TomW about this.  They didn't pay their Internic bill, so
the NIC turned off their domain.  He reminded them many times.

C

SPYDERS wrote:
> The Safari Gard www address *is* www.safarigard.com , isn't it?
> Anyone having the negative luck I am?
> pat
> 93 110

------------------------------

From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 20:12:52 -0700
Subject: Re: 110 Rust Corrosion Estimate

Russ Wilson wrote:
8<
> Good god, don't any of you D110 people own any WD 40???   "Oh no, my door
> hinges squeek!!..."  "Quick, have the butler take the vehicle in to be
> serviced, and have all of those nasty brown bits replaced!"  From what I've
[to prevent LRO lite from truncating]
> seen the best rust  preventative is mud.  I'm just happy when my truck
> doesn't rattle so loud that the person behind me in traffic can hear it.  I
> guess when you don't have things like broken carbs and rattling door tops
> to play with you start looking for things to fix.
8<

Jeez Russ,

So, what's wrong with getting corrosion repaired under warranty?  I
guess I don't understand the hostility, but then I'm taking this a
little personally as a 110 owner.  I found nothing offensive in the
posts.  Mike even piped in saying that he'd seen the problem.  

C

------------------------------

From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 23:14:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: FWIW: Eco Challenge in Oz

>To all who care and some who don't:
>The Eco Challenge is on The Discovery Channel tonight, 9ET/8CT & 9PT/10MT. I
>don't know what it is, but I've seen it mentioned on the list. My sister
>called to tell me about it, apparently a commentator called it "The Camel
>Trophy of human endurance or something..." and she knew CT was rover
>related...

I know there are some on the list who may be interested to watch this but I
must say that I for one will NOT be watching any of this crap.  I have a
friend who works as a video freelancer and was involved in the "Land Rover
Trek" event from a year or two ago.  He had some interesting tales of how
the whole event was spun around making "good T.V."  Events were placed so
that everything would be framed "just right". Everything, nice and neat and
fit for T.V.  This Eco-Challenge  is just more of the same "made for T.V."
B.S. to make some fat, balding couch potato sitting on his couch with a
Disco parked in driveway feel good about buying his $35,000  truck.

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
Pittsburgh, Pa.

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 23:19:10 EDT
Subject: Re:  Re: SG website?

In a message dated 4/20/98 11:11:32 PM, you wrote:

>I talked to TomW about this.  They didn't pay their Internic bill, so
>the NIC turned off their domain.  He reminded them many times.

Ahhh. Maybe didn't pay their phone line bill either. I'm glad my fax made it
through the machine prior to the severance, and continue wating for their
reply.

pat

------------------------------

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 23:09:50 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Gear Shifting Problem Resolved (?)

On Mon, 20 Apr 1998, Peter M. Kaskan wrote:

> Hi People - Thanks for all the advice. I got under the rover and readjusted
 the clutch slave cylinder pushrod. I did not measure to the value it says
in the book - it's essentially is at it's maximum length. This seemed to do
 it. But I'm worried I am compensating for something else amiss - I think
 the pushrod is too far out - it really cant go anymore. Do you think this
> is compensating for a misadjusted clutch mc pushrod?

 The end of the rod doesn't sound right to me, but it is dark and raining,
so I am not going to go look at mine.  One of the problems the Land-Rover
clutch linkage has is that it has a number of elements that pivot on
unlubricated bronze bushes.  These eventually wear out, and develop
freeplay.  Due to the huge mechanical advantage the linkage gives the
pedal, a small amount of slack at the release mechanism results in
shockingly large increased pedal travels.   

David

------------------------------

From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 22:30:56 -0700
Subject: Set up "shoots" - limited LR content

I only get involved in flame comments that are counter productive....
I have sailed offshore and a fair bit elsewhere, however, I had the eye
opening experience of using my vessel for a promotional "shoot".  I spent 2
days under full sail, short tacking (over a 100 times, single handed, 4
sails) for sunset shots taken from an island.  I hauled the photographer up
the mast so they could get action shots (the best action was watching him
cling to the mast above the second spreaders).
Well, to be brief, anyone who thinks that most shows are not arranged,
probable believes that "Top Cops" was made by coincidence - right place at
the right time as it were.
I also ran my own photography company, so I have a fair idea of the amount
of "real shots" out there.  REMEMBER - Wild Kingdom (Marlin Perkins) used to
release tranquilized antelope for the lions to catch - among other things.
TV - reality...do not confuse them or you will be trying jumps in your Land
Rover!!!
Watch it for the fun of it

Cheers
David
Wahoo Adventures - Stay at Home Father
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
Ural Motorcycle - S/V KALAKALA, Ingrid 38, ketch

------------------------------

From: Paul Wakefield - Serco <Paul.Wakefield@esrin.esa.it>
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 11:51:07 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: re: Autocar renderings.

Hi All,

Someone mentioned the renderings in Autocar of future Land-Rovers.
Strangely,  the April 1998 edition has just landed on my desk.

There is (around) a 30 page tribute in it for the 50th Anniversary Celebrations.

I agree that the drawing quality and some of the futuristic designs still leave 
much to be desired.

Cheers,

Paul.

------------------------------

From: "Dr R.D.Thomson" <rthomson@mech.gla.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 11:51:40 +0100
Subject: LR thefts

Even decrepit LRs seem to be a desirable item for auto-thieves so we're
designing a new mechanical security device (can't talk about the design at
this stage).   Does anyone know (or know where to find) statistics on the
incidence of theft of LRs.

Regards,

Ron Thomson
http://www.mech.gla.ac.uk/~rthomson/guslrc.htm

------------------------------

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