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From: Craig Morgan <C.Morgan@soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 12:04:10 +0100
Subject: Laughable parts pricing ...

Hi all,

	Someone may just find this useful (I certainly found it hilarious!),
Unipart (UK parts specialist, spun off from British Leyland long ago) are
now on the Web.

	http://partsdirect.unipart.co.uk/

	Just as a little test (because I'd just replaced my suspension this
weekend), I compared a few prices ... two standard front springs for a '90
RR cost approx 44pounds sterling (inc. VAT) at Craddocks (not the cheapest,
but its only 8 miles from here), Unipart are asking 84pounds (inc. VAT) for
the pair ...

	Everything else seems just as inflated, so long may the independents
survive ...

	BTW, a relation is a supplier to Unipart and also OEM fitment on most
UK/European makes for various parts, in the late '80's/early '90's Unipart
policy on smaller items was to screw parts prices down until their
operating profit per supplied unit was between 750% and 850% ...

Have fun 

Craig

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 07:47:00 -0400
Subject: Mixed up advertising

Ron Beckett wrote of Toyota using the "King off the road" phrase originated
by Land Rover.

A couple of days ago there was a press release on my PointCast screen saver
from Land Rover about the 50th Anniversary edition Range Rover and
Discovery. Both the header and footer for the release were Mercedes Benz
adverts. 

------------------------------

From: "LT J Jackson" <lt_j_jackson@unixlink.uscga.edu>
Date: 16 Apr 1998 08:55:45 -0400
Subject: Re-  Hammerite Spray Paint

Ed Bailey wrote:  Does anyone know a current source for Hammerite in the US?
Recently, I saw somewhere that Hammerite and Waxoyl are made or sold by the
same people.  This
stuff is impressive and:" -  adheres without primer to aluminum and galvanized
- I sure wish I could find it again.  Any ideas?"

Ed:  You can find Hammerite at - of all places - True Value hardware stores. 
We have two of these in the local area and they both stock it.

Jeff

------------------------------

From: msullivan@paravant.com (Mark Sullivan)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 09:29:10 -0400
Subject: RE: Re-  Hammerite Spray Paint

Hammerite is also sold in Home Depot!
Mark Sullivan
Senior Engineer
Paravant Computer Systems, Inc.

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 98 08:28:41 EST
Subject: Re[2]: tyre change

>The nearest size for a 7.50 x 16 crossply to a radial is 7.50R 16. Brands 
>to look out for that carry this size are :
        >
        BF Goodrich Trac-Edge too.. 

>235/85 R16...is broader than the 7.50 x 16 and needs a broader rim like 8 
>x 16...Rover steel rims...are 5.5 x 16. Mounting a 235/85...is possible, 
>but the buldgeing sidewalls make the...steering...more boat-like.

err...i've got 235/85/16's on 88" rims, i.e., 5 x 16. They work fine and the 
bulge is not very noticeable, nor is there any decrease in steering ability or 
feedback. If all is not in order with your steering then it may have an effect. 
I would not describe the steering of my Land-Rover as vague at all.

>The wider track from these tyres incidentally improve turning radius 
>although the wider tyre footprint increases fuel consumption a little 
>bit.

nay, I say. Turning radius is only improved by increasin the disyance from the 
wheel inside edge of the tire to the frame. hence the larger turning radius of 
the coil-sprung vehicles. I'd buy the fuel consumption bit but I wouldn't say 
you'd actually notice the difference. Biggest difference I noticed in my truck 
when I first fitted the 16" rims with 7.50's was that it slowed me down a 
little coming up hills and acceleratino was slower, but overall top speed was 
better and the gear ratios were a little onger and everything seemed to work 
the way it was intended, as opposed to the 15" wheels which are just too damned 
small.

btw, with 235/85's on the 88" rims, you may want to fit tubes to help avoid 
bead breakage on the trail. I have not had this problem yet but I don't air 
down that much.

later
DaveB

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 98 08:30:22 EST
Subject: hammerite Source

hammerite is available from eastwoods in PA. 1800 345 1178. Give them a call.
It comes in colors

ask for a catalog

later
DaveB

------------------------------

From: "LT J Jackson" <lt_j_jackson@unixlink.uscga.edu>
Date: 16 Apr 1998 10:01:23 -0400
Subject: Wire Rope and Ground Tackle

I did some reading before buying hardware to make attachment points for my
SIII, and I came across some interesting, long-forgotten (by me) formulas for
wire rope and ground tackle (pronounced TAY-kel for you non-sailors).  Here
they are, courtesy of the US Navy Boatswain's Mate 3 & 2 training manual:

Wire Rope Breaking Strength = Circumference squared x 8000 lbs    (Circ =
Diameter x pi)
Subtract 10% if the rope is galvanized.

Safe Working Load for wire rope =   BS (breaking strength)/SF (safety factor)
SFmin = 5  (increase "accordingly" when conditions are not ideal)

SWL for hooks (in U. S. tons):  .66 x (diameter squared)
(diameter measured at the back of the hook)

SWL for shackles (in U. S. tons):  3 x (diameter squared)
(diameter measured at side of shackle)

Friction allowance for blocks:  10% per sheave (since the mechanical advantage
found in a single-whip block is 1:1, the 10% friction penalty goes directly
against your winching power if using a single-whip setup - see below).   

Mech. Advantages of commonly used block/tackle setups:

Single whip:  one single-sheave block fixed to a support (e.g., tree).  Block
is NOT free to run.  Mech. adv. = 1:1 

Runner:  Also a single-sheave block, but block is free  to move; one end of
rope is secured to a fixed point, "weight" is attached directly to block. 
Mech. adv. = 2:1

Minimum Sheave Diameter for Wire Rope (I got curious about this after reading
the idea about fairleading wire rope from a front-mounted winch to the rear of
a vehicle): 

 Blocks (and fairlead rollers) are designed for use with a certain size of
wire rope.   They should never be used with rope of a larger size;  rope bent
over a too-small sheave will be distorted, and any great strain applied will
damage the rope.   

     The rule of thumb formula is :  Sheave diameter should never be less than
20Xdiameter of Wire Rope.  Note:  Slightly smaller sheaves can be used on
finely laid wire rope, such as 6x37 lay.  Most wire ropes (?) are 6x7, 6x19,
and 8x19.   

Sorry for the length of the post.  I hope someone finds it useful.  

Next week:  How to make a Liverpool splice.  

Rgds,

Jeff        

------------------------------

From: GElam30092 <GElam30092@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 10:37:04 EDT
Subject: Fwd: re Subject: Gearbox oil seal

Bill was kind enough to send this to me as the result of an off-list question
back to him.  Maybe someone else can also benefit too!  

Gerry
PHX AZ

:
:<<There are a number of shims behind the output shaft
:housing which can be removed to reduce the radial clearance to an acceptable
:limit.>>
:
:Does that make it necessary to remove everything or can they checked with the
:transmission/transfer box in place?
 
 The entire job can be done with the box in situ.
 If possible raise the vehicle
remove front end of rear prop shaft
remove brake drum and hub as one unit by remving center nut, oil will spill
out when you do this.
Remoce the brake backplate, 4 off 3/8 " nuts in center.
 swivel brake back plate up onto the top of the transfer box, alternatively
disconnect the clevis pin from the brake unit.
remove the speedo cable.
 grasp the output shaft and move sideways to get a feel for the clearance
 remove the output shaft housing  half a dozen or so 3/8" nuts more oil will
spill out.
this will reveal a number of large shims. 
remove shims, if there was a lot of play, take out a thick one, if only a
little take out a thin one
replace the housing with two nuts
rotate the shaft ( t box in nuetral )
check the radial clearance, repeat until no clearance, careful not to overdo
it
with the housing off it is easy to knock out the old seal and replace it.
 Rebuild by reversing process.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

--part0_892737424_boundary
Content-ID: <0_892737424@inet_out.mail.aol.com.2>
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

At 11:09 AM 4/15/98 EDT, you wrote:
><<There are a number of shims behind the output shaft
>housing which can be removed to reduce the radial clearance to an acceptable
>limit.>>
>Does that make it necessary to remove everything or can they checked with the
>transmission/transfer box in place?

 
 The entire job can be done with the box in situ.
 If possible raise the vehicle
remove front end of rear prop shaft
remove brake drum and hub as one unit by remving center nut, oil will spill
out when you do this.
Remoce the brake backplate, 4 off 3/8 " nuts in center.
 swivel brake back plate up onto the top of the transfer box, alternatively
disconnect the clevis pin from the brake unit.
remove the speedo cable.
 grasp the output shaft and move sideways to get a feel for the clearance
 remove the output shaft housing  half a dozen or so 3/8" nuts more oil will
spill out.
this will reveal a number of large shims. 
remove shims, if there was a lot of play, take out a thick one, if only a
little take out a thin one
replace the housing with two nuts
rotate the shaft ( t box in nuetral )
check the radial clearance, repeat until no clearance, careful not to overdo
it
with the housing off it is easy to knock out the old seal and replace it.
 Rebuild by reversing process.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

--part0_892737424_boundary--

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 08:33:07 -0700
Subject: RE: Red Engine Blocks

Thanks for the reply regarding my red engine (now with it's own picture
at: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/lreng.jpg   )

Maybe, if I get really picky, I'll repaint it the original green/blue,
but that is WAY down the priority list right now. ;-)

Right now, I'm installing a new petrol tank that I imported from
Britain.  As usual, the process is not as simple as it should be as the
new unit is just a little bit too long to squeeze between the two
bulkhead outriggers.  Think that tonight I'll just strap a cradle on the
high lift jack and *persuade* it in...carefully of course!

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/
Victoria, BC  Canada

------------------------------

From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 13:43:15 -0400
Subject: Rack question

Kerry Scott wrote:

>I am trying to get an 88" Safari Roof from its current owner in upstate
New York
>to me here in central Virginia.  I would appreciate any advice on how to
>accomplish this without damaging the roof.  Any Thoughts?

Arrange to pick it up at the 50th anniversary rally at Greek Peak...if you
can wait that long....  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 13:43:16 -0400
Subject: Welding

WRT the thread on welding, has anyone done any trail-side repairs?  I've
just heard this second hand, but it sounded feasible.  Group of four
j**pers are off-roading.  One breaks an axle case.  The take three
batteries, wire 'em in series with jumper cables, us another set as welding
clamps and using an appropriate DC rod, proceede to weld up the break.  The
fourth battetry is used to get everyone going again.  Anybody BT, DT, GTTS?
 Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 98 10:52:27 EST
Subject: Re: New JPEGs in my Web site

>.To see the current Green Rover photos, enter my web site 
>( http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman )

thanks TerriAnn. I was wondering what your green rover looked like. I just 
thought i'd let you know that on your web site, when you click "back", it takes 
you all the way back to the top page. Maybe its just my browser.
Makes it difficult to switch between pictures.

later
DaveB

------------------------------

From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 15:10:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Welding

Wow,and I thought J**p guys just hide the carcass under a pile of empty 
Bud cans when they break down.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 12:20:52 -0700
Subject: RE: Welding

Just run a welder off of your rear PTO!  That would impress the h*ll out
of all those Jeepsters.

Paul.

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 16 Apr 98 12:38:43 MST
Subject: Getting top from NY to Virginia.

From:  David Brown - Graphics Specialist ~SRP~ E-mail: debrown@srp.gov
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
                                    Pers. E-mail: rovernut@hotmail.com
Terry,

Why not dress warm, drive to NY with the top off, then install it, and drive
back to Virginia? Certainly, you need a LR adventure! My best LR adventure
was buying a 109 in Potsdam NY (Just south of the Canadian boarder) and
driving it to the East coast, across Canada to Michigan, then home to
Phoenix Arizona. I had a top, though... Not that that helped all that much,
with the poor excuse for a heater it had, and the bad door seals, and other
air leaks! It helps to wrap a sleeping bag or WARM blanket around your legs
and torso. Also, wear dark glasses and a ski mask, so people won't see your
eyes tearing up from the cold and laugh at you! (Just kidding!)

Or... does the LR not run??? There are shipping companies that do this sort
of thing... Check the yellow pages.

Good luck, Dave Brown

P.S. Then again, I'm kinda crazy, and if it weren't for that ocean between
here and the Uk... I'd probably want to drive there for spare parts!

 Never give up your life for          #=======#         _____l___
 anything that death can take         |__|__|__\___    //__|__|__\___
 away.            -annonymous  __\ _  | _|  |   |_ |}  \__ - ____ - _|}
                               O---O  "(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)

------------------------------

From: Marijn van der Himst <marijn@multiweb.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 21:57:47 +0200
Subject: Re: FFR electrics :-)

 Richard, I haven't got all the answers for you (yet),
 'cause I am in and out of hospitals lately...
 
>Where the heck's my blinker unit?  ---most likely on firewall,
                                    in engine bay.
>Where are all these relays that are in the circuit diagrams?
  ---same answer, not sure.
>Any one any ideas how I can test a lot of these more obscure bits?
  ---relay's can be checked easy: find connectors for mains (12 or 24 V,
  if I remember correctly you converted to 12V, I won't )
  connect, and listen / or: connect a bulb and see if relay works.

>Some bits are easy - eg. horn & wipers  should be easy to test.
 ---that's right, when directly connected to battery, Use a Fuse !  :')
    Replacement, if needed: use Bosch instead of Lucas (no hatemail please)
>How do I test the generator itself?  I know the coils are fine:  otherwise
>the engine wouldn't run.
>I suspect this means the diodes are fine - any checks that anyone knows of?
 ---this should be in your manual that I would like to have/copy one day...
 And no, it does automaticly mean your diodes are o.k.
 1. check voltage on battery with engine off, should be just above 12V
 2. Run engine above 2500 rpm, voltage should be around 13.8 volts.
 3. If this is not the case, check diodes and volt-regulator...
    Need a new of the latter? Buy two, get discount, send me one   ;-)

>Now, if only we had some fine weather for the next few days whilst I sort
>this out...                 ----yes, that's what were all waiting for...

I'll go see my FFR soon (if doctors let me go), hopefully I'll be able
to give some better answers.

Marijn    109"FFR  'Winston'

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 13:04:49 -0700
Subject: RE: FFR electrics :-)

>I suspect this means the diodes are fine - any checks that anyone knows
of?
>---this should be in your manual that I would like to have/copy one
day...
>And no, it does automaticly mean your diodes are o.k.
> 1. check voltage on battery with engine off, should be just above 12V
> 2. Run engine above 2500 rpm, voltage should be around 13.8 volts.
> 3. If this is not the case, check diodes and volt-regulator...
>    Need a new of the latter? Buy two, get discount, send me one   ;-)<

An good indicator for the condition of your charging diodes is to tune
your radio (if you have one in the truck) to AM between stations and rev
the engine.  If you hear a loud squeal that rises & falls with engine
speed, chances are you have a bad diode that is letting some AC from the
alternator though into the electrical system and thusly out of the radio
speakers.  Of course, the radio must be powered by the Landy
electric's...

Paul in Victoria.

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 17:01:34 -0400
Subject: 110 kph in a series 1

I once owned a 4 cylinder ser 2 88 that would do 150 kph.!! it required
about a mile to get up to speed but would sustain it on the governor. ( clue
!!)  There was also a guy in our club who's 88 would do 200 kph, it was
fitted with an E type Jag engine !!!
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 17:05:16 -0400
Subject: winching from the rear

Dave, I have not run a winch cable from the front to the rear, but have done
it the other way round, I had a rear mounted winch, run the cable around the
rear wheel, ( over a spade to stop the tyre wear) and out to the front.
Tends to pull sideways but it worked enough.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 17:08:03 -0400
Subject: tyre change

Ron, go for the radials, it will also reduce fuel consumption. Radials can
still be purchased in 7.50 x 16"   205's are much smaller than 7.50's
because they work to an 80% aspect ratio.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 17:17:26 -0400
Subject: King of the Road

Uncle Joe Lucas used the slogan " King Of The Road " for many years,
probably before  Land Rover was a twinkle in his fathers eye, let alone the
To$#@
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: tabercro@acadia.net (Tom Abercrombie)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 17:24:09 -0400
Subject: gen to alt conversion

  i recently converted to a delco alternator (and to negative ground) from
the original generator in my '64 SWB.  just about everything works but
there are  two major problems:

        1.  i can't leave the battery hooked up or it will drain.  i think
that i have fixed this by changing the ignition wiring form the alternator.

        2.  none of the warning lights work.  i'm pretty sure that they
used to.  i'm not so worried about the cold start light, but i'd like the
others to work.

   i'm told that there are lots of people who have done this conversion.  i
really don't know much about wiring,  and at this point, i'm getting pretty
frustrated.

thanks for your help.

tom abercrombie
belfast, me
'64 SWB

------------------------------

From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 16:35:57 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: 2.25l used engine wanted...

a lro buddy of mine who is not on the mailing list (why, i
can't understand) wants me to post his request for a used
2.25l engine.  he desires one running with 50k miles of useful
life left. price should be market price.  he really only
needs the short block, does not want to do an overhaul, merely
put it into place and get 4-6 years of happy motoring, but would
take a long block, too.  location is central arkansas, and 
getting it there is a consideration.

anybody in midwest usa with excess lumps, get hold of me and i
will forward the info to him..

or email him directly -- JHUMPHRE@creek.astate.edu

Sincerely,

Ray Harder 

------------------------------

From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 17:55:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Bush Rangies

>I found the posting and the link very interesting. The Bush Rangie looks
>very similar to a vehicle called the Rotrax which is locally (SA) built
>on a space frame with graphite composite body and a choice of 2X4 or 4X4
>drivetrains - not sure about the mill. I know that several have been
>supplied to one of the Special Forces brigades (they chuck them out the
>back of a C-160 and use them as mobile weapons platforms) and that
>they're also sold to one of the Gulf states for their Defence Force.
>Anyway, nice site Mike!

Thanks for the info. and for the kind words about our site. I put quite a
bit of time in on it, so I appreciate it! :-)
Have a great day!

From: EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 17:58:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Bush Rangies

>I found the posting and the link very interesting. The Bush Rangie

For Christ's sake!! I gotta stop hitting that instant reply button!!!
Sorry about that, that last email was supposed to go directly to the
sender, not to the list. Yes, I know I've done it before. Sorry.
Have a great day!

From: EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

From: "Edwin Pratt" <epratt@tinet.ie>
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 00:01:14 +0100
Subject: subscribe

subscribe lro

------------------------------

From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 14:54:10 -1000
Subject: Re: Getting top from NY to Virginia.

Crazy!!!!   Isn't it understood that you have to be at least "odd" to own a
series rover.  I find them very comfortable to drive and have even thought
of shipping one of mine to the real world so I could stretch its legs on a
cross country jaunt.
Aloha peter

PS what is a heater anyway, have never seen one in a rover hereabouts???

>P.S. Then again, I'm kinda crazy, and if it weren't for that ocean between
>here and the Uk... I'd probably want to drive there for spare parts!
>Good luck, Dave Brown

> Never give up your life for          #=======#         _____l___
> anything that death can take         |__|__|__\___    //__|__|__\___
> away.            -annonymous  __\ _  | _|  |   |_ |}  \__ - ____ - _|}
>                               O---O  "(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)

------------------------------

From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 21:13:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: gear shifting problems

Dear Rover Oricles,

	I've been having some trouble shifting gears lately. I own a '65
IIA with a suffic c box. When I pull up at a red light, I put it into
neutral and then remove my foot from the clutch. When I try to put it into
first - and this has been the case since I bought it - it grinds. So, I
either wait a little, or use the synchro on fourth to mesh it up, and then
go right into first. This used to work w/o any grinds - now it seems much
less effective.
	Next,  I used to be able to go into second by double clutching w/o
grinding. Now it seems like that method is ineffective, and I can only wait
untill the engine rpms drop.
	In the past, it seemed like it would only take one ot two tries to
put the box in any gear from neutralat a stand still (provided I followed
the tricks above.) Now, I often am unable, after numerous tries, to drop it
into any gear - sometimes I can't even force it in. This condition occurs
w/o grinding - the lever just stops. In this situation I have to remove my
foot from the clutch and try it all over again. This problem seems to be
happening on all of my forward gears intermittantly - the reverse will just
grind.

	What's going on here? Could this happen from low 90wt (I'm fairly
certain it is fine)? What about a misadjusted clutch linkage - which has
been coming loose for some time (I rebuilt the clutch hydraulics last
fall!?)? And last - some expensive demon which has been brooding in there
waiting for the most inoppurtune moment to jump out!!??

Thanks in advance - Peter

-----------------------
Peter M. Kaskan
Uris Hall 231
Dept. Of Psychology
Cornell University
607-255-3382
pmk11@cornell.edu
-----------------------

------------------------------

From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 21:23:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Brake Hydraulics & Heat

Dear Rover Oricles,

	I have a recently rebuilt sengle resv. system on my '65 IIA. On hot
days the pressure in my brake system builds and builds, and activates the
brakes. So, I hold my foot on the pedal and press - it goes down slowly and
the brakes come off. My question is - where is the brake fluid going - is
there some valve in there - is it being squished back into the resv. - is
it leaking out somewhere? I did have to recently top it up - it was about
.5 - .75 in low - but that was the only time since Oct. '97 - since the
rebuild. I don't see any signs of leaking fluid - but I have not looked
into the drums and at the wheel cylinders. What do I have to do to do this
- remove wheel and the screws in the brake drum - is that all?

Thanks in advance - Peter

-----------------------
Peter M. Kaskan
Uris Hall 231
Dept. Of Psychology
Cornell University
607-255-3382
pmk11@cornell.edu
-----------------------

------------------------------

From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 15:25:38 -1000
Subject: Re: gear shifting problems

	Sounds like your clutch may not be disengaging completely.  Check the
fluid in the clutch master cylinder reservoir.  It its low its probably
leaking out somewhere.  Check around the clutch master and the slave.  Hope
its not the slave as it is no fun to r&r on the series II, supposedly
easier on the III. You also might need to replace the flex line to the slave.
	If you haven't already discovered, you don't have to go completely into
3rd or 4th to get the benefits of the synchro's. Just touch the synchro's
till you feel resistance then shift into 1st or reverse.
Aloha Peter

At 09:13 PM 4/16/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Dear Rover Oricles,
>	I've been having some trouble shifting gears lately. I own a '65
>IIA with a suffic c box. When I pull up at a red light, I put it into
>neutral and then remove my foot from the clutch. When I try to put it into
>first - and this has been the case since I bought it - it grinds. So, I
>either wait a little, or use the synchro on fourth to mesh it up, and then
>go right into first. This used to work w/o any grinds - now it seems much
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 42 lines)]
>pmk11@cornell.edu
>-----------------------

------------------------------

From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 22:35:41 -0300
Subject: Re: gen to alt conversion

Tom Abercrombie wrote:
>   i recently converted to a delco alternator (and to negative ground) from
> the original generator in my '64 SWB.  just about everything works but
> there are  two major problems:
>         1.  i can't leave the battery hooked up or it will drain.  i think
> that i have fixed this by changing the ignition wiring form the alternator.
>         2.  none of the warning lights work.  i'm pretty sure that they

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
> really don't know much about wiring,  and at this point, i'm getting pretty
> frustrated.
 Tom, your two problems come from the same source. One of the two small
wires from the alternator(usually a white one, sometimes a black one)
need to be connected to the ignition switch so that it will be turned
off with the switch.If this connected to the wire that comes from the 
ignition warning light this will tell you if it is charging as the light
will go out if all is ok. Also this will prevent any drain from the
battery.
  The other wire ( usually a red) one may be looped to the large
terminal where it connects to the feed from the alternator to the
battery or it  may  be connected to the + terminal of the battery. It's
purpose is to sense battery voltage.
   Hope this helps 

John and Muddy

------------------------------

From: Ashley Horn <wahorn@southeast.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 22:16:23 -0400
Subject: Hammerite

I have found Hammerite paint at "home depot" here in the U.S.

--
Ashley Horn       http://users.leading.net/~wahorn

------------------------------

From: Shaun Oriold <soriold@worldchat.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 22:59:58 -0400
Subject: unsubscribe LRO

unsubcribe lro soriold@worldchat.com

------------------------------

From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 23:09:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Getting top from NY to Virginia.

>PS what is a heater anyway, have never seen one in a rover hereabouts???

A "heater" is a gangster, as in 1920-30s gangster,  slang term for a
machine gun.  The favorite being a Thompson .45.   I hope this helps.  As
far as the top goes, just to keep somewhat in touch with the subject title,
I'd just drive up and get it.  I drove from Pittsburgh to D.C. to get my
trop top.  I just tied it to the regular roof and away I went.  It can't be
more than a 10-12 hr trip that is being talked about.  Drink lots of coffee
and go for it..

p.s. watch out for the hookers at the Stuckeys

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
Pittsburgh, Pa.

------------------------------

From: caloccia@senie.com
Date: 17 Apr 1998 03:33:17 -0000
Subject: 50th at Greek Peak

Registration forms are now available off of the www.rover-clubs.org page.
 -B

------------------------------

From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 11:32:24 -0500
Subject: Getting To the UK.

Hi All,
 I was wondering if all the LR's with winches lined up on the east coast
& more in England  We could just winch the UK to our shores. That would
be a great way to enjoy the 50th annerversy.  HA HA
Just wild thoughts for fun.

Rob.

------------------------------

From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 21:13:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Brake Hydraulics & Heat

Peter M. Kaskan wrote:

>         I have a recently rebuilt sengle resv. system on my '65 IIA. On hot
> days the pressure in my brake system builds and builds, and activates the
> brakes. So, I hold my foot on the pedal and press - it goes down slowly and
> the brakes come off.

Who did the rebuild and what did it consist of?How do the brakes behave in
normal driving?

I'm wondering if you might have a cup misinstalled in the MC so it bypasses
under
pressure and traps passively (i.e. it's reversed).

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 21:23:24 -0700
Subject: Re: gear shifting problems

Peter M. Kaskan wrote:

> This problem seems to be
> happening on all of my forward gears intermittantly - the reverse will just
> grind.

Yes it's possible that such symptoms can be caused by insufficient lubricant.

But, it's possible that the problem may not be in the box at all but
rather in the clutch. Such symptoms can be caused by a wearing or failing
clutch or excessive free play in the clutch.

How old is the box (has it ever been rebuilt)?
Does it also happen consistently in 4th as well?
If it's happening on all gears then it's more likely to be a generall wear
problem
or shaft issue.

A remote possibility is that your shifter cover is loose.

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: SFmms <SFmms@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 01:05:40 EDT
Subject: Rattling in SIII upon deceleration

Hi all:

Within the last month or so my '74 SIII has developed a rattle in the engine
compartment which occurs upon deceleration. It sounds as if it is coming from
the valves and is particularly noticable on sudden stops. I have also observed
that the oil pressure light comes on and the oil gauge fluctuates momentarily
below 50 and back again to around 50 at idle, at the same time. Anyone have an
idea what could be going on. One suggestion was that it had to do with the
timing chain because the tensioner uses the oil pressure.

Thanks in advance,

Karen Sindir
'74 SIII 88
'95 Disco

------------------------------

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 00:23:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: gen to alt conversion

On Thu, 16 Apr 1998, Tom Abercrombie wrote:

>   i recently converted to a delco alternator (and to negative ground) from
> the original generator in my '64 SWB.  just about everything works but
> there are  two major problems:

I presume this is a three wire delco?  The three wires are output, IND,
and sense.  Output is obvious, and is the lub on the back.  IND is the
wire that goes to the charge warning idiot light.  It also provides the
current for the field, so with out it, the thing won't charge.  Sense is
the remote voltage sense, and tells the beast how much current to put out.  
I think IND is pin #1, and sense #2, but I might have that backwards.  If
you have a plug, sense is the bigger red wire, and IND the smaller white
or black one.  If you need me to, I will go look at mine.

my guess is that you have IND connected to something that is always hot,
so you drain the battery, the alternator puts out current and idiot light
doesn't work.  Where the sense wire goes depends on much current you need.
If you are just replacing the genny because you want to, then you can
connect it to the output terminal.  If you have really big current draws,
for a winch or lots of lights, you should run it somewhere hot far away,
like the fuse block or battery.  This lets the current sense the voltage
drop in charging circuit wiring, so you will get more at peak outputs.  

David

------------------------------

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From: "Bob Sjonnesen" <bob@cancom.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 02:22:30 -0400
Subject: Engine Clacking Sound - Series l - 1957, 88"
	charset="iso-8859-1"

    Hello all,

    My Landrover has developed a clacking sound.  Just started, on last =
4 km. drive through town.  It does not exist when in 1st or 2nd gear.  =
It occurs in 3rd and 4th gear when the vehicle is under load - ie. =
starting to go up an incline. The harder the engine has to work, the =
louder the clacking.

  I recently put approximately 8 litres of last years premium gasoline, =
as well as 3 litres of premium mixed 50:1 with outboard motor oil, into =
approximately 40-50 litres of regular gasoline in the landrover.  (I use =
it in a 2 h.p. outboard motor, and wanted to start off with a fresh =
batch of gasoline this year.)

 Is their a relationship between the above two events.  If so, can I =
correct the problem by removing the existing gas and feeding her some =
nice clean regular.

If not, any theories as to what's happening.

I look forward to any suggestions you have to offer.

Cheers

Bob
bob@cancom.net
Elliot Lake, Ontario, Canada

------=_NextPart_000_0015_01BD69A7.AC6E3300
	[ Original post was HTML ]
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: text/html; ]

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 09:26:07 +0100
Subject: Re: FFR electrics :-)

> Richard, I haven't got all the answers for you (yet),
> 'cause I am in and out of hospitals lately...
Hope its nothing too serious...

>>Where the heck's my blinker unit?  ---most likely on firewall,
>                                    in engine bay.
I think I might have found it lastnight - about the only thing bolted to
the firewall. A strange looking thing with a number of cables going to it.
Says "24v" on the bottom half in big letters.

>>Where are all these relays that are in the circuit diagrams?
>  ---same answer, not sure.
>>Any one any ideas how I can test a lot of these more obscure bits?
>  ---relay's can be checked easy: find connectors for mains (12 or 24 V,
>  if I remember correctly you converted to 12V, I won't )
>  connect, and listen / or: connect a bulb and see if relay works.
No, I'm still 24v. Its only the HT side that was civillianised.
It sounds like the lighting relay works. I was testing a light this morning
(took the genny panel off last night), and the switch is now accompanied
with a relay click...

>>Some bits are easy - eg. horn & wipers  should be easy to test.
> ---that's right, when directly connected to battery, Use a Fuse !  :')
>    Replacement, if needed: use Bosch instead of Lucas (no hatemail
please)
>>How do I test the generator itself?  I know the coils are fine:
otherwise
>>the engine wouldn't run.
>>I suspect this means the diodes are fine - any checks that anyone knows
of?
> ---this should be in your manual that I would like to have/copy one
day...
A good reminder... :-)

> And no, it does automaticly mean your diodes are o.k.
> 1. check voltage on battery with engine off, should be just above 12V
Yes, it is - even though the batteries are in a bad way...

> 2. Run engine above 2500 rpm, voltage should be around 13.8 volts.
> 3. If this is not the case, check diodes and volt-regulator...
>    Need a new of the latter? Buy two, get discount, send me one   ;-)
>>Now, if only we had some fine weather for the next few days whilst I sort
>>this out...                 ----yes, that's what were all waiting for...
>I'll go see my FFR soon (if doctors let me go), hopefully I'll be able
>to give some better answers.
Thanks.

The news so far (for people not on the UK list),etc.  is that lastnight I
took the genny box off. I took the top off the shunt panel. The latter is
in a bad way - the big capacitor in the lower right is history - as
possibly are other components (its a mess).

The generator box is visually very good. It is the old electro-mechanical
type.
My spare is the transistorised one - even has the 2 pin socket for the
surge unit.

My spare shunt panel has three of the "trunk cables" coming off it. The
lower one (ie. opposite to the radio terminals) has two wires in it.
The installed (and very dead looking) shunt panel has two trunk cables
coming off it. The lower hole has been taped off.   Anyone have any clues?
(neither shunt panel has the integral ammeter as illustrated in the
transistorised circuit diagram)

I guess all parts are interchangeable?
Looking at my circuit diagrams, the transistorised and the
electromechanical genny show different diode arrangements but they don't
make sense. The pin outputs look the same though. I guess there's a typo in
the circuit diagrams somewhere and these are interchangeable too?

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)
(circuit diagrams for the above are on
http://www.cix.co.uk/~rigel/alice.htm)

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 09:30:01 +0100
Subject: RE: FFR electrics :-)

Thanks I'll remember this for when I get the panels replaced...

My radio ran off the shunt panel. When the terminals started to melt, the
first thing I did, was to isolate the radio/VR *just in case*. I haven't
tested the VR, but cosmetically its fine. Its all fused too, so the radio
isn't duff.

I'll try to find my Walkman - I think that has an AM radio on it...

Come to think of it there might have been a whistle early on in my journey,
but I don't remember it correlating with engine speed. I think I decided it
was a wagon at the time.
I wasn't the only vehicle with problems - a different wagon/truck had a
quite spectacular brake fire...

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

Paul_Quin@pml.com on 04/16/98 09:04:49 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  RE: FFR electrics :-)

>I suspect this means the diodes are fine - any checks that anyone knows
of?
>---this should be in your manual that I would like to have/copy one
day...
>And no, it does automaticly mean your diodes are o.k.
> 1. check voltage on battery with engine off, should be just above 12V
> 2. Run engine above 2500 rpm, voltage should be around 13.8 volts.
> 3. If this is not the case, check diodes and volt-regulator...
>    Need a new of the latter? Buy two, get discount, send me one   ;-)<
An good indicator for the condition of your charging diodes is to tune
your radio (if you have one in the truck) to AM between stations and rev
the engine.  If you hear a loud squeal that rises & falls with engine
speed, chances are you have a bad diode that is letting some AC from the
alternator though into the electrical system and thusly out of the radio
speakers.  Of course, the radio must be powered by the Landy
electric's...
Paul in Victoria.

------------------------------

From: Mick Forster <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 09:59:19 +0100
Subject: Re: Rattling in SIII upon deceleration

SFmms wrote:

> Within the last month or so my '74 SIII has developed a rattle in the engine
> compartment which occurs upon deceleration. It sounds as if it is coming from
> the valves and is particularly noticable on sudden stops. I have also observed
> that the oil pressure light comes on and the oil gauge fluctuates momentarily
> below 50 and back again to around 50 at idle, at the same time. Anyone have an
> idea what could be going on. One suggestion was that it had to do with the
> timing chain because the tensioner uses the oil pressure.

I had a problem after an engine re-build with the cam-shaft sproket
which the timing chain goes round. This sprocket is held in place on the
cam-shaft with a bolt which is fixed by a tab washer. If the tabs break
off and the bolt comes loose the noise gets worse as the sproket works
loose. Eventually the whole thing runs very erratic, but if you are
lucky you can limp home.

The other point is that the drive to the oil pump comes off the
cam-shaft as well. If this is also worn  could this result in the
tensioner no functioning correctly?
Possibly it may just be the tensioner seized. I would take off the
timing cover and have a look-see.
Not a quick job, but really good fun!

Mick Forster

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 10:28:56 +0100
Subject: RE: FFR electrics :-)

Doh!!    (on my part)

A Walkman would be useless for this...

The AC setting on my multimeter might be revealing though?

don't have an oscilloscope
If portable ones existed at good prices this would be an excuse to get one
though...

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

Paul_Quin@pml.com on 04/16/98 09:04:49 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  RE: FFR electrics :-)

>I suspect this means the diodes are fine - any checks that anyone knows
of?
>---this should be in your manual that I would like to have/copy one
day...
>And no, it does automaticly mean your diodes are o.k.
> 1. check voltage on battery with engine off, should be just above 12V
> 2. Run engine above 2500 rpm, voltage should be around 13.8 volts.
> 3. If this is not the case, check diodes and volt-regulator...
>    Need a new of the latter? Buy two, get discount, send me one   ;-)<
An good indicator for the condition of your charging diodes is to tune
your radio (if you have one in the truck) to AM between stations and rev
the engine.  If you hear a loud squeal that rises & falls with engine
speed, chances are you have a bad diode that is letting some AC from the
alternator though into the electrical system and thusly out of the radio
speakers.  Of course, the radio must be powered by the Landy
electric's...
Paul in Victoria.

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 06:16:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake Hydraulics & Heat

Peter, from the sound of things either your brake master pushrod is
misadjusted (causing the backflow valve in the master not to open fully),
or the backflpow valve is sligly defective or clogged.

I'd recommend going for the easy one first - there should be 1/16" of play
in the brake pushrod before it begins to act on the cylinder's piston.
Start by adjusting that, then go into the master if necessary.

                         ajr

------------------------------

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