1948-1998 Land Rover's 50th Anniversary
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From: Michael Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 07:58:53 -0400 Subject: cq cq cq lr de n7wbo Hi all, and all you hams. A ham friend of mine who knows I'm a LRnut and a ham thought we might like to see this. Subject: Solihull Heritage Run: Land Rover 50th Celebrations Solihull Heritage Run: Sunday 26th April 1998 ---------------------------------------------- The very special call GB50LR/M has been granted to operate a MOBILE SPECIAL EVENT STATION using this callsign. This one-off mobile event required special authorisation to operate a mobile GB station. This celebration is a cavalcade of three groups each comprising 50 Land Rovers following an historic route through the region around Solihull, where Land Rovers are built. One of these groups will have a Land Rover built in each of the 50 years. The others will include special vehicles and those driven by celebrities. It is fully described in a booklet, published by Land Rover, titled 'The Inaugural Land Rover Solihull Heritage Run'. The full route itinerary and map is given in the booklet and the route itinerary below. >From about 8:00 the 150 Land Rovers on this run will start to assemble at the NEC West Car Park near Birmingham. In the 50th position of the second group will be Paul Clark's Radio Body 101 Land Rover. The station will start to operate just before the first vehicle departs at 10:00. Five minutes after departure the first vehicle will arrive at the Land Rover factory at Lode Lane, Solihull. A quarter of an hour later is the departure for Solihull town centre along the historic High Street where the Mayor and Mayoress will greet the run. The cavalcade will depart at 10:40 for Gaydon, arriving at the Heritage Motor Centre at 11:30 for a four hour stop which will include lunch and visiting the Museum. The return run will commence at 15:30 visiting the National Trust's Baddesley Clinton moated manor house. After a 75 minute stop the Land Rovers will depart at 17:35 heading for Meriden - the centre of England. The journey finishes where it started at 18:20. Please note that all times given are for the first Land Rover in the run and that they are approximate times. If you want to collect a QSL card please wait your turn in any queue. Many Land Rovers were manufactured for the British and foreign armed forces, often with the designation - FFR: Fitted For Radio. The vehicle that will be used for this radio station is one of the 101 inch forward control models, built exclusively for military applications. There were 3 main variants of 101s. Most were the canvas soft-tops, a few were converted into ambulances and a small number were made with a radio body. This is a metal body with a separate compartment behind the driver/navigator compartment, equipped with various radios. I will be operating the station with the help of Carol Wilkinson, G1UGK, from the radio compartment of a 101 Land Rover on HF and VHF. The 101 Land Rover will be driven by it's owner, Paul Clark. We are both members of the '101 Forward Control Club and Register', a club that is part of the Association of Rover Clubs. We will be operating on a single frequency (+/- QRM) on HF using an Icom IC-706 which is rated at an output power of 100 watts. There will be no additional power amplifier. The frequency will be chosen on the day depending on band conditions. I am hoping to be in contact, on the used frequency, with a fixed home station throughout the run, to act as a 'net' controller, with higher transmit power. A frequency in the 145-146Mhz band will also be used. We will be using a navigational satellite GPS receiver to display the Land Rover's exact location. During every contact the OS National Grid Reference (ie. SP 149 817) will be given so that all stations will know the progress of the cavalcade and where their QSO took place. If it is possible this grid reference may also be written on the QSL cards. We will be pleased to confirm your report with a special souvenir QSL card that Rover Group will be printing at their factory. 73 de Alan G4ENS. Land Rover 50th Celebrations, Special Event Stations Co-ordinator. QTH: Stanton, Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, UK. <attachment end> Mike Johnson 74 SIII 88 Chester *** This space available *** ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Tony McNaught <tmcnaugh@kpmg.co.nz> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 23:06:02 +1200 Subject: 110 County V8 - Help me take the plunge Hi I am presently in New Zealand but am visiting the UK in May/June this year. I am considering the possibility of buying and using it while I am in the UK and then shipping it back to New Zealand. I am very excited about the prospect of owning my first Land Rover. I have spent many hours searhing the net and talking to UK sellers of 110 County's on the phone from NZ. This approach has become time consuming and expensive, hence the email. Can anyone help with the following questions based on my budget of GBP4,000 to GBP4,500: 1) What am I likely to get for my money 2) Top five problems to look for on a 110 County V8 3) Is rust located in the windscreen pillars a bad sign 4) Are the number of miles relevant when buying a 110 and is there a milage where some maintenace should be done 5) I understand many small changes were made to the 110 over the years since 1984. Is there a year where the changes made made a big difference and therefore rule out 110's from earlier years 6) Is a damp carpet a bad sign, I understand they leak is normal Enough questions. ANY assistance that you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Tony tmcnaugh@kpmg.co.nz -- Disclaimer: The information in this electronic mail message is confidential and may be legally privileged. It is intended solely for the addressee. Access to this Internet electronic mail message by anyone else is unauthorised. If you are not the intended recipient, any disclosure, copying, distribution or any action taken or omitted to be taken in reliance on it is prohibited and may be unlawful. When addressed to our clients and opinions or advice contained in this Internet electronic mail message are subject to the terms and conditions expressed in the governing KPMG client engagement letter. ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Lodelane <Lodelane@aol.com> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 08:15:20 EDT Subject: Re: Welding WRT using vehicle batteries for welding. Yes, BTDT (No T-Shirt). Have used the 24 volt system on an Army five ton wrecker, jumper cables, and both regular welding rods and wire coat hangers as rods to make field expedient repairs. Its not pretty (esp. when you have to keep turning your head as you strike the arc because you don't have welder's goggles or a helment), but it works to get you home where you can do the job correctly. Larry Smith Chester, VA ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 14:21:26 +0200
Subject: Different ways to galvanise
As I wrote a week or two ago, I am in the process of refurbishing my
88", and the project includes a new firewall.
I want to prevent rust on this, to avoid future biggies, the choice
seems to be -
1. Lots of paint and waxoyl
2. Metallising ("spray" with molten zinc)
3. Hot dip galvanising
4. Electro galvanising
I want something better than the lots of paint and waxoyl solution.
Metallising is good, I have used this process before when I split my
tractor into a thousand peices and had everything metalised - the
resulting surface is rough, like fine sandpaper, and paint sticks very
well - 10 years later there is not a spot of rust on the old grey
fergie.
But metalising does not reach the inside of the firewall, and this is
where most of the rust appears - so I have certain reservations.
Hot dip galvanising gives the best protection, though at the risk of
warping the entire shooting match. I am also worried about how well
paint will stick to the galvanised surface.
A collegue has suggested electrogalvanising, as this does not warp the
metal, and it leaves a very thin zinc-coating which it is said is better
able to take paint.
I have never tried this process, so i don't know if its a bucket of
horses??t or the way forward.
Has anyone here tried electro galvanising?
Of course I could use electro then metalise the outside!
At the same time I will also galv/metallise other parts, like the
radiator panel, the battery cage, and the outside of the hubdrums.
Words of wisdom anyone?????
Adrian Redmond
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark
telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages! www.channel6.dk
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]From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 08:38:20 EDT Subject: On my way to tomorrow's get together Driving up through the state of Flarda, I stop in Orlando and see a white D90 (#1300) from new mexico. I left directions to the rallye on the windshield. Anyone in the south who's coming ought to oil up the winch, it looks like lotsa rain on Sunday (the tail end of the Nashville storm/cold front moving east). pat 93 110 ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
[digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BD6A0F.DF56BFE0" ] From: b.boehlers@olsy.dk (Bent Boehlers) Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 14:48:22 +0200 Subject: RE: 110 County V8 - Help me take the plunge Tony McNaught[SMTP:tmcnaugh@kpmg.co.nz] wrote: Can anyone help with the following questions based on my budget of GBP4,000 to GBP4,500: 1) What am I likely to get for my money > Don't know 2) Top five problems to look for on a 110 County V8 > Rust, In the frame, specially in the rear X-member behind the = fueltank. > Rust, In the frame, specially in the outriggers that carry the = firewall between engine compartment and cabin and the doorpillars. If = its a 5door version, there is an extra U-shape X-iron that holds the = rear seats. > Rubber bushes, not an expensive repair, but if You have to do it = Yourself, timekeeping. > Rust, look at all the iron parts at the cabin, on older models they = are zinkdipped, later models (as I remember 1989) they are only painted, = and will rust. > Oil dripping is normal, BUT get under and remove the filler plug on = the reductionbox, if oil (more than a few drips) comes out here, there = might be a bad oilgasget between the main box and the reduction. Cheep = sparepart, several hours work. 3) Is rust located in the windscreen pillars a bad sign > If it is holes yes, but easy to repair, only the door must be removed. 4) Are the number of miles relevant when buying a 110 and is there a milage where some maintenace should be done > Every 100000Km the Camshaft, timing chain, hydraulic lifters must be = exchanged and the heads checked. 5) I understand many small changes were made to the 110 over the years since 1984. Is there a year where the changes made made a big difference and therefore rule out 110's from earlier years > Mine is from 83. 290000Km on the clock. 6) Is a damp carpet a bad sign, I understand they leak is normal > Yes, the floor must for some reason be holding the water inside. ? Not = normal, most LR it can drip out trough holes the same speed as it comes = in. Enough questions. ANY assistance that you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Hope this helps Happy Rovering Bent Boehlers Denmark ------ =_NextPart_000_01BD6A0F.DF56BFE0 [digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: application/ms-tnef ] ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: trowe@cdr.wisc.edu Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 19:11:23 -0500 Subject: Re: welding From: Tom Rowe@CDR on 04-16-98 07:11 PM cc: Subject: Re: welding >WRT the thread on welding, has anyone done any trail-side repairs? I've >just heard this second hand, but it sounded feasible. Group of four >j**pers are off-roading. One breaks an axle case. The take three >batteries, wire 'em in series with jumper cables, us another set as welding >clamps and using an appropriate DC rod, proceede to weld up the break. The >fourth battetry is used to get everyone going again. Anybody BT, DT, GTTS? The theory is pretty sound, except you wouldn't wire them in series, rather in parallel. 12 volts is a common voltage for DC welders. Although for heavier welds in series may be warranted. On the other hand, you wouldn't have much control over the amperage, but if the choice is abandoning my vehicle I suppose I'd give it a go. A serious warning though. You'd definitely want to make sure the batteries were downwind of the arc. Hydrogen gas generated by the load on the batteries could prove quite dangerous if it gets to the arc. Tom Rowe Network Systems Administrator WI Center for Dairy Research Madison, WI 608-265-6194 Fax: 608-262-1578 trowe@cdr.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Lodelane <Lodelane@aol.com> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 10:03:08 EDT Subject: Detroit Diesels In the May issue of Popular Science, there is a short article about Detriot Diesel announcing three new light duty diesels intended for light trucks and SUVs. Looks like they will be 1.4 to 4.2 liters with electronic fuel control and common rail fuel injection. No price ranges given. May be another alternative for repowering Rovers Larry Smith Chester, VA ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 10:04:07 -0400 Subject: Camshaft bearings? Anybody ever done the split camshaft bearings in a 2.25 themselves. This is an area I have, admittedly, never gotten involved with. However, as I still haven't managed to find a decent auto machinist close to home it becomes an imperative. Any and all information is welcome. -ajr ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 08:59:47 -0700 Subject: Re: Engine Clacking Sound - Series l - 1957, 88" Bob Sjonnesen wrote: > It occurs in 3rd and 4th gear when the vehicle is under load - ie. = > starting to go up an incline. The harder the engine has to work, the = > louder the clacking. Ummmm... 2 thoughts: 1) If its restricted to particular gears then it's probably in the gearbox (wear in the gear shifter/clutch?) 2) Are you certain you're not in too high a gear for the inclines which will stress the engine? cheers Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Darrell D. Murray" <rdgrnr@flash.net> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 09:21:39 -0700 Subject: Southwestern Regional Rally Tucson, AZ. Still not to late to register and attend the Southwestern Regional Rally, hosted by the Arizona Land Rover Owner's Club, in Tucson, Arizona. All the rain has caused the desert and mountians to bloom and it would be a missed opportunity, For Four Wheeling and the views as well. Email me direct for more information. Dates May 14th though the 17th. Still room in the Driving and Vehicle class. Darrell D. Murray ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org Date: Fri, 17 Apr 98 12:29:22 EST Subject: Re: Different ways to galvanise >I am in the process of refurbishing my 88", and the project includes >a new firewall. >I want to prevent rust on this, to avoid future biggies, the choice >seems to be - adrian- I'll cast my vote for hot dipping it. Its the longest term, most effective solution. I've seen and heard of lots of folks doing it and even to the rad panel, with a very high succes rate. I have yet to hear any actual experiences with warping. Both of these structures are pretty unlikely to warp as they are all boxed in and triangulated and are rather rigid. The metal is not exactly thin either. I bet the guys at the hot dip plant will warn you of the possibility of warping, but who can blame them for covering their assess. Lets hear from anyone who has actually had problems with warping. cheers DaveB ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: GcdoAK <GcdoAK@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 12:38:33 EDT
Subject: New Web Page and Rover Web Ring
To all my fellow rover enthusiasts,
I would like to announce a new web page and a new web ring dedicated to
Land Rovers and their owners.
My web site primarily consists of a list of homepages of clubs and owners.
Also there is a long list of commercial companies that have been on lro and
rro lists over the past year. Many of you will find your personnal home pages
listed on this page. If any of you don't want them there or wish to have the
comments (if any) change please e-mail.
The Rover Ring when fully implemented will allow Rover Enthusiasts to move
from Rover site to Rover site. The more that join, the more fun it will be.
All the instructions and HTML that are needed are posted on the page. If you
have problems drop me a line and my wife Mandi (it was her brilliant idea)
will try to assist.
Please take a look and send comments and suggestions to
Jon Stehn
gcdoak@aol.com
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From: GcdoAK <GcdoAK@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 12:49:05 EDT
Subject: New Web Page and Rover Web Ring - this time with the address! DOH!
In a message dated 98-04-17 12:43:47 EDT, you write:
<< To all my fellow rover enthusiasts,
I would like to announce a new web page and a new web ring dedicated to
Land Rovers and their owners.
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/5870/
My web site primarily consists of a list of homepages of clubs and owners.
Also there is a long list of commercial companies that have been on lro and
rro lists over the past year. Many of you will find your personnal home
pages
listed on this page. If any of you don't want them there or wish to have the
comments (if any) change please e-mail.
The Rover Ring when fully implemented will allow Rover Enthusiasts to
move
from Rover site to Rover site. The more that join, the more fun it will be.
All the instructions and HTML that are needed are posted on the page. If you
have problems drop me a line and my wife Mandi (it was her brilliant idea)
will try to assist.
Please take a look and send comments and suggestions to
Jon Stehn
gcdoak@aol.com
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/5870/
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]From: mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marcus Tooze) Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 11:52:21 -0500 Subject: '67 109 carawagon FS: $6900 OK. Summers coming and I need to start getting serious about selling this beast...My TVR is crying out for a cash injection... Pictures at http://www.calmit.unl.edu/tooze/carawagon 1967 Landrover Carawagon For Sale Description: - 1967 Landrover 109 Carawagon converted by Searle of Thames in excellent unmolested condition - 84,000 original miles. RHD I am the third owner. Much documentation of upkeep including british log books, repair history and original owners manuals etc. The vehicle is titled /registered in Nebraska (I just don't put the plates on!). Exterior (body and chassis): - Original Searle factory paint (Limestone). - 3 door, spare on hood and rear door. - Pop up roof - One dent in right wing (will pop out). Some scratches/small dents in rear body work. Doors are excellent - Chassis: PERFECT! Never welded or plated. NO RUST. Original chassis paint still evident in areas! - Bulkhead: Excellent. One small quarter sized hole in right hand side of bulkhead. All splash guards etc in place. -Recent springs/shocks -Recent ball joints and idler arm -Recent front hub seals and brakes -Good swivels, new leather gaitors in place Interior Fitments: - Original Searle factory seating in excellent condtion - limestone 'vinyde' driver and passenger seats, with central cubby box (factory). Rear sideways bench that converts to one bed. Everything perfect apart from stitching in drivers seat is coming undone. - ORIGINAL LANDROVER DOOR PANELS IN GREY RHINO VINYL, ALL ORIGINAL INTERIOR BULKHEAD PANELS AND GREY RHINO COVERINGS...all in excellent condition - African mahogany cabinets, including fold out table, storage areas. Including all original Searle factory dining set (plates, cups, saucers etc) - Porta potty - Sink, faucet. - Fridge (curently not working) - 2 burner Stove, two original propane tanks included stowed under wheel arches. Mechanicals: - 4 cylinder gas engine, solex carb, unleaded head conversion - 4x4 high and low work correctly, no nasty whines, rattles or clunks from the drivetrain. - Free Wheeling Hubs - The ONLY thing changed on this truck from original is I converted it to negative ground and fitted an alternator in place of the generator. I have the voltage regulator and generator if you wish to take it back to original. -It also has a new battery. Price: $6900 Email me at mtooze@tan.unl.edu or call me at 402 472 0306 (day) or 402 438 4465 (eve.) if you have any questions. ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 09:57:59 -0700 Subject: Re: The real thing From: "camilo osejo" <camiloosejo@hotmail.com> Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 06:52:48 PDT Subject: the real thing.... >Can anybody tell me the truth?... I have a doubt, what is and what is used for, that big hole that all the series have on the rear bumper?? If you look through the hole you will see it lines up with the end of the output shaft from the transmission. The hole in the frame was to accommodate a driveshaft for a power take-off accessory at the rear of the vehicle. The most common unit was a PTO-driven pulley or drum which was mounted on the rear cross-member. The drum was used to power belt-driven agricultural equipment that was towed or sat stationary behind the vehicle. __________________ C. Marin Faure faurecm@halcyon.com marin.faure@boeing.com (original owner) 1973 Land Rover Series III-88 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 18:57:00 +0200 Subject: Re: New Web Page and Rover Web Ring and what was the http address? Adrian Redmond CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 86 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 54 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk Visit our homepages! www.channel6.dk ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Elwyny <Elwyny@aol.com> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 13:12:31 EDT Subject: Paint Job Hi Folks Well, summers approaching (slowly) and it will soon be time for me to repaint my LR. Being ex-mil it has come out in all these wonderful green/blue strange combinations and i would like some advice on repainting. Anyone help? 1. Taking off old paint? Do i sand it down, paint on some stuff or what? 2. Are there special or certain types of paint i should and shouldnt use. 3. As 2-pack is dangerous stuff, is there alternatives. 4. i dont really want a gloss finish, matt will do... 5. As i probably need to put primer on, what sort.... and... 6. Anything else i might of forgotten. Thanks in advance, also to the freind on this list i have already phoned. Elwyn York LR SIII Lightweight Hardtop. ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 13:14:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Paint Job
Re: 2-pack is dangerous stuff...
Only if you can't take the elementary precautions. I've used it in
non-induistrial situations before (at least 2 Rovers...), and if you can
wear a respirator with the right cartridges to avoid the fumes and aren't
up to stirring paint with your finger then it's not horrid.
It's certainly not as bad for your nervous system as old-style lacquer
thinner....
aj"Used it, and I'm fine..<TWITCH< TWITCH..>"r
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]From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 10:17:59 -0700 Subject: Re: Shipping to the US From: Karl Kurz <kkurz@acad.umm.maine.edu> Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 11:47:30 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Shipping/UK to US? >I would like to export from the UK to the US a Rover from southern England....does anyone have any advice on brokers/shippers to use... I would like to go Southhampton to Boston if possible ? I've only ever done this from London(Tilbury) to Boston and that was 30 years ago You do not mention the year of your Rover. But put simply, unless the Land Rover (or any other vehicle) is 25 yeas old or older, you can't import it to the US. US Customs has a little pamphlet that should be available at their offices which spells out what you can and cannot import as far as vehicles are concerned. Basically, any vehicle newer than 25 years old (by date of manufacture) must meet the emissions and safety specifications that were in force in the US at the time the vehicle was manufactured. When your vehicle arrives on the dock in the US it will be impounded by customs until one of the following things is done: 1) you can prove via paperwork and specifications that your vehicle meets all the applicable US emissions and safety specs. No Land Rovers made after 1974 meet these specifications until the first US-spec Range Rovers that were imported starting in 1987. No Land Rover models made for the UK market meet any US specifications. 2) you can have your vehicle modified to meet all US safety and emissions specifications that were in force at the time of your vehicle's manufacture. In the case of Land Rovers, this means spending big bucks. 3) you can ship your vehicle back to where it came from. 4) you can have your vehicle destroyed on the spot with customs witnessing the destruction. That's it. There are no other choices. The one-per-person one-time waiver that used to be available to let a person bring in one non-US-spec vehicle newer than 25 years old has been eliminated. If it hadn't been, I'd have my Defender 130 High-Capacity Crew Cab over here in a flash. But I can't do it now until the vehicle is 25 years old. So right now, the newest Land Rover you can import to the US outside of the ones that were manufactured for the US market, is a 1973 Series III. __________________ C. Marin Faure faurecm@halcyon.com marin.faure@boeing.com (original owner) 1973 Land Rover Series III-88 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 10:27:08 -0700 Subject: Re: Services Offer (LR-Searchers) From: "jhonathan more" <jonmore@hotmail.com> Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 10:27:23 PDT Subject: Services Offer (LR-Searchers) >We are a small company offering a new service. We are able to locate, recondition and ship to the continental USA any Land Rover car within the following limitations: Year Models: Between 1960 and 1980 Series: II, IIA and III, SWB only (with possible exceptions) As the US Customs brochure I have about importing vehicles to the US specifically states that only those vehicles that are 25 years old or older will be allowed in regardless of their emissions and safety equipment, I'd be very curious to know how you intend to get around these regulations. Customs makes it very clear that the only way they will allow a vehicle less than 25 years old into the country is if it meets, or is made to meet, all the emissions and safety standards that were in force in the US during the year the vehicle was made. So a Land Rover made in 1979 must meet every Federal safety and emissions requirement that was in force in 1979. On top of that, some states like California have additional emissions requirements that must be met for every vehicle in order to register it in that state. So while you won't have any problems bringing in Land Rovers made in 1973 or earlier, I'd be real curious how you intend to bring in Land Rovers made from 1974 through 1980. I realize these vehicles can be made to meet the applicable emissions and safety specs, but from the few people I know who did it to Range Rovers in the early 1980s, it is a VERY expensive process. __________________ C. Marin Faure faurecm@halcyon.com marin.faure@boeing.com (original owner) 1973 Land Rover Series III-88 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 10:40:17 -0700 Subject: Re: the real thing.... From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 23:44:52 +0200 Subject: Re: the real thing.... camilo osejo wrote: >>Can anybody tell me the truth?... I have a doubt, what is and what is used for, that big hole that all the series have on the rear bumper?? >There are many urban legends about the feasibility of driving farmimplements with a PTO through this hole, but I have yet to see a working implement which proves this point. I have a couple of catalogs from the UK way back when plus an out-of-print book about the Land Rover that have all sorts of photos of agricultural equipment being driven from PTO units mounted on the rear crossmember and from driveshafts extending out to the side of the vehicle. In fact, one of the original requirements of the Land Rover's design was that it be able to use PTO drives that could provide power to the front, rear, and either side of the vehicle for agricultural use (not all at the same time, of course). The catalogs I have show PTO belt drums mounted on the rear driving mowing machines and seed drills while the side unit is powering some sort of baling machine. The front PTO, of course, is usually associated with a winch. But there were agricultural PTO implements being used with Land Rovers long before the military even thought of purchasing the vehicles. However, the Land Rover did not prove to be as useful in the fields as a purpose-built tractor, so while there were all sorts of PTO drives made for the Land Rover, they did not prove to be all that popular with farmers who preferred their tractors for field work and their Land Rovers for transportation and hauling supplies and equipment. __________________ C. Marin Faure faurecm@halcyon.com marin.faure@boeing.com (original owner) 1973 Land Rover Series III-88 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Art Bitterman <artbitt@rmi.net> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 11:40:26 -0600 Subject: subcribe lro-digest subscribe lro-digest ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 10:54:04 -0700 Subject: Re: Seeking advice on '91 GDE From: "Paul M. Pitcher" <pitcher@cahp.nbc.upenn.edu> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 15:20:21 -0700 Subject: Seeking advice on '91 GDE >Anyway, there's a '91 Great Divide Edition FS near me here in southeast PA, and the wife is kind of interested in it. It fits the description written by Kevin Kelly at the off-road.com site, and the VIN is: SALHV1247MA446441 Does it have the 4.2 L? Can't tell if it's EFI or carb. Looks like it needs brake work and a new exhaust system. 80,000 miles. Seller is asking $15,500. 1991 was one of the better years for US-spec Range Rovers as they had ABS as well as the larger fuel tank added. It should have the 3.9 litre engine which is good as the 4.2 is the worst engine Land Rover has ever used outside of the NADA 6-cyl back in the 1960s. NEVER buy a Range Rover LWB: the air suspension is the trouble-prone beta test version of what they used on the new model and the 4.2 is a money pit, or will be once it gets up in miles. No carbureted Range Rovers were imported to the US other than some grey market vehicles in the early 1980s. If the vehicle is in good shape, 15K is not a bad price. I don't know if the GDE had sway bars or not. If it doesn't and you're going to be driving on pavement most of the time, you might want to add them: they make a BIG difference in the handling in turns. However, they are of no value off-road, so make your decision based on what you're going to do with the vehicle. __________________ C. Marin Faure faurecm@halcyon.com marin.faure@boeing.com (original owner) 1973 Land Rover Series III-88 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 10:58:33 -0700 Subject: PTO Devices that are in common use: I think that the most famous use for the rear PTO unit is (besides a winch) the Land Rover fire engine water pump. Many of these are still in use in small rural communities. The PTO is often used to drive a hydraulic pump which will power...well, anything that needs an hydraulic pump. Another common (and used) application for the front PTO is to power a snow blower. And let's not forget the Series 1 welder. I'm sure that there are lots more Paul. ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 11:08:13 -0700 Subject: Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs From: Mick Forster <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk> Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 09:44:38 +0100 Subject: Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs >The relevant section in the Series III Workshop Manual (Land Rover not Haynes) is operation 51.10.28 where paragraph 15 for refitting the hub bearings states "Pack the hub with fresh grease". The only reason they want you to pack new bearings with grease is so they are lubricated from the first instant they begin to turn. As the bearings heat up, the grease will thin out and mix with the oil coming through from the swivel ball housings. You never have to grease the bearings after that. After 25 years and God knows how many miles (the speedometer/odometer on my Series III broke in the Yukon in 1977 so I threw it away and replaced it with a tach) every component of the front and rear axles is original except hub seals, felts, and brakes. I installed Warn hubs shortly after taking delivery of the Land Rover, and they've never had to be taken apart either as they receive their lubrication the same way as the hub bearings. The play in all the bearings is within specs, but the only maintenance they've ever received or needed is regular changing of the swivel ball oil. The rear wheel bearings, of course, are lubricated by oil from the differential. __________________ C. Marin Faure faurecm@halcyon.com marin.faure@boeing.com (original owner) 1973 Land Rover Series III-88 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Michael Fredette <mfredett@ichips.intel.com> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 11:19:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: PTO Devices that are in common use: > I think that the most famous use for the rear PTO unit is (besides a > winch) the Land Rover fire engine water pump. Many of these are still > in use in small rural communities. The PTO is often used to drive a > hydraulic pump which will power...well, anything that needs an hydraulic > pump. Another common (and used) application for the front PTO is to > power a snow blower. > And let's not forget the Series 1 welder. [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)] > power a snow blower. > And let's not forget the Series 1 welder. *** Or the powered trailer from Rubery-Owen. Mike ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 11:24:17 -0700 Subject: Re: Red Engine Blocks From: IBEdwardp <IBEdwardp@aol.com> Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 21:45:58 EDT Subject: Re: Red Engine Blocks >I believe the popular wisdom is that the 2.25's were painted "Detroit Diesel Blue". As I purchased my Series III brand new in 1973 I can tell you exactly what the 2.25 engine block color was. It was called, even in the spec sheet that came with the vehicle, "Robin's Egg Blue." And that's exactly what it looked like. It was a fairly light blue-green. When I had the engine overhauled in the early 1980s after it burned an exhaust valve, I had the engine painted heat-resistant Ford blue. I expect I'll be putting a Turner head on it one of these days, at which time I intend to paint the engine with the same paint we use on floatplane engines and marine diesel blocks: the choices I have are green (Volvo-Penta), yellow (Caterpillar), cream (Cummins) or grey (Pratt & Whitney). I'm far more interested in metal protection than I am in authenticity, so I'll probably go with the green or grey as it's been my experience that these two particular paints are practically indestructible even under high heat and salty environments. But if you want to be totally authentic, Robin's Egg Blue was the engine color used in 1973 at least. I don't know about other years. __________________ C. Marin Faure faurecm@halcyon.com marin.faure@boeing.com (original owner) 1973 Land Rover Series III-88 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "jhonathan more" <jonmore@hotmail.com> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 11:27:58 PDT Subject: Re: Services Offer (LR-Searchers) >So while you won't have any problems bringing in Land Rovers made in >1973 or earlier, I'd be real curious how you intend to bring in Land >Rovers made from 1974 through 1980. I realize these vehicles can be >made to meet the applicable emissions and safety specs, but from the few >people I know who did it to Range Rovers in the early 1980s, it is a >VERY expensive process. >Rovers made from 1974 through 1980. I realize these vehicles can be Mr. Faure: You are completely right about the 25 year rule for importing cars into the United States. 1973 and prior models can be easily brought in and registered without any major inconvenience. As to later models, the required modifications would have to be performed to meet the US emission requirements. You are also right about it being an expensive process, and that there is no way around it, but if it's future owner is willing to, almost any car can be federalized and registered. It will just add up to the final price of the car. Best Regards, Jhonathan More GUTZ & MORE ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marcus Tooze) Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 15:07:23 -0500 Subject: Re: Paint Job > Re: 2-pack is dangerous stuff... > Only if you can't take the elementary precautions. I've used it in > non-induistrial situations before (at least 2 Rovers...), and if you can > wear a respirator with the right cartridges to avoid the fumes and aren't > up to stirring paint with your finger then it's not horrid. > It's certainly not as bad for your nervous system as old-style lacquer > thinner.... [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)] > It's certainly not as bad for your nervous system as old-style lacquer > thinner.... Nope. It's a lot worse for you. Read the warning label on any can of the hardener, then read the warning on the laquer thinner. Should should not use anything less than a fresh air resp. with urethane (two pack) type paints. Try calling any of the major resp. manufacturers (eg. 3M) and ask them to recommend a resp. to you for use with urethane. They won't. Problem is, the nasty bit is the isocyanate in the catalyst (hardener)... it has no smell, and so you have no way of knowing if the filter is used up. I would suppose an alternative would be to use a regular resp., and replace the filters every few hours or something...depends on how fast they are used up, which nobody knows, because they are not rated for use with isocyanate based paint! Shell the $300 and buy a fresh air resp. from eastwood. Marcus I await the deluge of 'I sprayed two pack 24/7 for 3 years and it didn't effect me' email with anticipation ;) > aj"Used it, and I'm fine..<TWITCH< TWITCH..>"r > Only if you can't take the elementary precautions. I've used it in > non-induistrial situations before (at least 2 Rovers...), and if you can > wear a respirator with the right cartridges to avoid the fumes and aren't ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 16:38:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Camshaft bearings?(Longish)
Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com wrote:
> Anybody ever done the split camshaft bearings in a 2.25 themselves..
Yes!
> Any and all information is welcome..
You asked for it!
>.
Well, have I got a story for you. I'll give you the Readers Digest
version, minus all the new words we learned, or taught those standing
nearby. A certain member on the list (who would probably want to remain
nameless) and I were assembling my 2.25 petrol. Just about everything was
new, pistons, rocker assy, tappets, oil pump, chain, bearings etc etc.
(you get the idea). I had the block remaned, head done, crank done, and
during assy we noticed, or rather thought, that we might as well pop in
some new cam bearings. I had a couple of sets up in the "Parts Mess", so
I go ahead and drive out the front bearing to start. We found out at that
point that the front bearing was different than the rest. Sherlock
technique, done by looking in the bag at the rest of the bearings. Well,
so here we go. Installing the bearing was not too bad a job. Having
fiddled with various tools and chunks of scrap laying about, we managed
to get the bearing in. "Let's try it for fit" says my accomplice. "Boy,
she's a tight one, eh?" says I, as we're trying to jam this shaft into
the new bearing. It didn't take Joe & Schmo a long time to figure out
that it wasn't going to slip in, even with K-Y. The next step is to read
the manual. ( We got it out sooner than I expected )
Turns out that the new bearings gotta get reamed ( we got the words
right, know what I mean? ). Not only that, but they have to line bore
them as well. So I says, " Let's take it back to the machine shop and get
them to install the rest of them and line bore it. "Nahh" says he, as he
pulls out his Swiss Army knife. "We'll just shave a bit off of it here
and here, a little bit more here, and we'll be laughing!" Hmmm, "OK, but
what about the rest of them?" "Leave 'em"
So here we go, shaving, and shaving, and more shaving, with some
gouging, a bit of brake honing in there just to smooth out the high
spots. A bunch of banging on the end of the cam shaft to get it in, and
after awhile, well, it was in! A bit too tight, too much force on the
pipe wrench to turn the cam, so shave a little bit more. I was starting
to think that this may not be such a good idea, but what the hell, "This
is how they did it in the old days" says my guru.
So it came to pass, the engine got assembled, installed, and all the
fixings put in place (even the floors!) New oil, filter, belts, hoses
etc, etc. Ready to try it? Start 'er up.
Well, a sweeter sounding engine you couldn't ask for. 15 seconds of
pure bliss. Then, almost faintly, you could hear a little ticking, no,
maybe a rattle, or maybe a knocking. It was a GAWD DAMN banging that
shook the Jeezus outta the building! Alright, so it wasn't 'that' loud,
but it was there alright. We spent hours changing oil pump drive, new
chain again, new rocker shaft again, tried even another oil pump,( the
one off of "Pig", knowing it was good and giving 55 lbs.) But alas, to no
avail. Still had almost no oil pressure and lots of noise. Only thing
left to do was "strip it down to bare block again and send it in for cam
bearings." with this, my trusty assistant was wiping his hands and
looking at his watch.
"Gotta go now Con, got to milk the cows"
"You sold your cows five years ago!!"
"I know that silly...but...but...they may have wandered back. See ya!"
***He was well outta earshot before he had a chance to find out what
size army boots his mother wore***
Anyhow, a month later, the engine was back in, with new "Machine
Shop Installed Cam Bearings", and the old girl was running just fine.
Lots of oil pressure, not a noise to had, lots of power, and no oil
leaks!, anywhere!
Epiloge: Some have seen me last year at Owls Head, with a Boler
trailer in tow. Some even saw me as I passed them, doing 75 MPH, right
John ?!
Con Seitl
1973 III "Pig" --- with new cam bearings ---
------------------------------
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]From: Tony McNaught <tmcnaugh@kpmg.co.nz> Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 08:37:35 +1200 Subject: 110 County V8 - Help me take the plunge Hi I am presently in New Zealand but am visiting the UK in May/June this year. I am considering the possibility of buying and using it while I am in the UK and then shipping it back to New Zealand. I am very excited about the prospect of owning my first Land Rover. I have spent many hours searhing the net and talking to UK sellers of 110 County's on the phone from NZ. This approach has become time consuming and expensive, hence the email. Can anyone help with the following questions based on my budget of GBP4,000 to GBP4,500: 1) What am I likely to get for my money 2) Top five problems to look for on a 110 County V8 3) Is rust located in the windscreen pillars a bad sign 4) Are the number of miles relevant when buying a 110 and is there a milage where some maintenace should be done 5) I understand many small changes were made to the 110 over the years since 1984. Is there a year where the changes made made a big difference and therefore rule out 110's from earlier years 6) Is a damp carpet a bad sign, I understand they leak is normal Enough questions. ANY assistance that you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Tony tmcnaugh@kpmg.co.nz -- Disclaimer: The information in this electronic mail message is confidential and may be legally privileged. It is intended solely for the addressee. Access to this Internet electronic mail message by anyone else is unauthorised. If you are not the intended recipient, any disclosure, copying, distribution or any action taken or omitted to be taken in reliance on it is prohibited and may be unlawful. When addressed to our clients and opinions or advice contained in this Internet electronic mail message are subject to the terms and conditions expressed in the governing KPMG client engagement letter. ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 17:42:24 EDT Subject: Re: Paint Job In a message dated 4/17/98 4:20:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time, mtooze@tan.unl.edu writes: << > It's certainly not as bad for your nervous system as old-style lacquer > thinner.... Nope. It's a lot worse for you. Read the warning label on any can of the hardener, then read the warning on the laquer thinner. >> What'll that stuff do to you? I painted the Brick with 2 pack (painted it by brush but used the hardener). Can't say I noticed much. The etching primer is another story. That stuff will give you brain damage! Nate ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 17:54:45 EDT Subject: Re: Paint Job Follow up In a message dated 4/17/98 5:50:38 PM Eastern Daylight Time, NADdMD@aol.com writes: << What'll that stuff do to you? I painted the Brick with 2 pack (painted it by brush but used the hardener). Can't say I noticed much. The etching primer is another story. That stuff will give you brain damage! >> Ok, Ok, so I'm not a computer guru... I did find this info on isocyanates: This comes from: Produced by: Saskatchewan Human Resources, * * Labour and Employment * * Provided by: Canadian Centre for Occupational Health and Safety * *** PROPERTIES AND HEALTH EFFECTS OF ISOCYANATES: *** Isocyanates are highly reactive chemical typically found in the hardener of two-part paints and primers. Isocyanates are present in two forms, monomer and prepolymer. Frequently, the isocyanate monomer content is indicated in product data information, but this is only a small fraction of the total unreacted isocyanate present in hardeners. Both forms of unreacted isocyanate present a risk to health when they enter the air during paint or primer spraying. The major health effect from isocyanates is associated with the inhalation of unreacted airborne isocyanate. Such exposure can cause coughing, chest tightness, fever, fatigue and sensitization. Sensitization means that further exposure to even very small amounts of isocyanates will cause distressing asthma-like reactions. One exposure to a high airborne concentration or several exposures to lower concentrations, may result in sensitization. There is no proven method for predicting whether any particular person will become sensitized due to isocyanate exposure. In May, 1984, the Ocupational Health and Safety Branch informed autobody shops that air-supplied respirators were requried when spraying paints containing isocyanates. Testing by the Branch has shown that air-supplied respirators are also necessary when primers containing isocyanates are sprayed. Even priming jobs of less than three minutes duration conducted in the open shop will product sufficient airborne isocyanate to present a risk of overexposure to the sprayer and other workers in the shop. All types of spray guns used to apply primers have been found to contaminate the open shop if a separately ventilated spray area or spray booth is not used. Nate ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marcus Tooze) Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 16:55:34 -0500 Subject: Re: Paint Job > << > It's certainly not as bad for your nervous system as old-style lacquer > > thinner.... > Nope. It's a lot worse for you. Read the warning label on any can > of the hardener, then read the warning on the laquer thinner. > What'll that stuff do to you? I painted the Brick with 2 pack (painted it by [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)] > brush but used the hardener). Can't say I noticed much. The etching primer > is another story. That stuff will give you brain damage! Nate, Central nervous system damage...depends on dose. Painting by brush is better, as the isocynate based catalyst does not get into the air via paint mist. First signs of damage are nausea, headaches, unconsiousness. Nastier stages have you coughing up blood, coma, death. If you get any of these symptoms, it is already too late and you have received a damaging dose. The effect of isocyanate poisoning are cumalative. i.e., you do NOT sweat out/pee out/cough up this stuff. It accumalates from multiple exposures and gets you that way too. Nasty nasty stuff. If you wore any type of respirator, you will have given yourself protection if it were new. Marcus ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 18:54:32 -0400 Subject: Re: Red Engine Blocks Paul Quin wrote of his '61 SII: |Right now, I'm installing a new petrol tank that I imported from |Britain. As usual, the process is not as simple as it should be as the |new unit is just a little bit too long to squeeze between the two |bulkhead outriggers. Think that tonight I'll just strap a cradle on the |high lift jack and *persuade* it in...carefully of course! The distance between the outriggers increased 1/4" on later models. The fuel tank part number didn't change, so your fuel tank is probably fine. How does it compare to the older tank in length. Also, the left engine mount bracket moved 4mm outboard. Regards, David Cockey ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 16:10:26 -0700 Subject: RE: Red Engine Blocks Bill points out that fuel tanks got longer... That makes sense. I think that a little judicious use of a dremel to lengthen the bold holes about 1/4 inch on the new tank should do the job. Paul Quin 1961 Series II http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/ Victoria, BC Canada ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 19:21:13 -0400 Subject: Re: Services Offer (LR-Searchers) jhonathan more wrote: > As to later models, the required modifications would have to be > performed to meet the US emission requirements. You are also right > about > it being an expensive process, and that there is no way around it, but > if it's future owner is willing to, almost any car can be federalized > and registered. To be imported into the US any LR newer than 25 years needs: - the LR attached labels saying it meets US safety and emission requirements as manufactured - or certification from LR that it is substantially the same as a vehicle manufuctured to US req., and a list of mods made to bring it into compliance (don't waste time trying) - or to be imported by a registered importer who will modify the vehicle and certify it meets US requirements. No registered importers deal with older LRs. It probably isn't feasible to modify and test a single vehicle to prove it meets US requirements. Anyone tempted to deal with these folks should do some careful research. Regards, David Cockey ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
[digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ] From: "Bob Sjonnesen" <bob@cancom.net> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 21:19:05 -0400 Subject: Re: Engine Clacking Sound - Series l - 1957, 88" charset="iso-8859-1" Hello all, Well, learned something new today. These vehicles are very gas = sensitive. Once I removed approximately 45 litres of my special mixture = (I'll feed it slowly to the Buick) and replaced it with 55 litres of = brand new, fresh regular, the clacking sound went away. Back to the bush. Catch you later. Cheers Bob bob@cancom.net ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BD6A46.74701780 [ Original post was HTML ] [digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: text/html; ] ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca> Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 23:38:42 -0700 Subject: Paint Codes, was Paint job All this talk of paint, and I saw the post awhile back on paint codes and didn't save it. Anybody got the paint code for Blue (maybe light blue I guess) Dupont # will suffice. Thanks in advance!! con Seitl 1973 III 88 "Pig" ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980418 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Dan & Sally Cantwell <dcantwel@cgo.wave.ca>
Date: Sat, 18 Apr 1998 02:44:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Paint Codes, was Paint job
Con,
As you requested.
Dan. '61 SII 88 HT
Below are the paint codes for the Series Veh's.
DuPont Code Colour
38500 (Deep) Bronze Green
38501 Mid-Grey
38502 Sand
38503 Marine Blue
38504 Pastel Green
38505 Limestone
38506 Poppy Red
Con P. Seitl wrote:
> All this talk of paint, and I saw the post awhile back on paint codes and
> didn't save it. Anybody got the paint code for Blue (maybe light blue I
> guess) Dupont # will suffice. Thanks in advance!!
> con Seitl
> 1973 III 88 "Pig"
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