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From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 12:18:11 +0100
Subject: FFR Electrics! :-)

Oh, what fun I had driving back from Leeds yesterday.
To misquote a certain film "I *love* the smell of fuming sulphuric acid"

The last 30 miles were on the back of a recovery truck.

Symptoms:

Melted terminal on top of shunt box.
Fuming batteries (frequent topping up);   taking 50-100Amps charge current.
A lot of dead electrics: all external lights bar 1 sidelight; blinkers;
temp gauges [non-standard psu]; halogens appear to have exploded (units not
disassembled yet).
Working electrics I know of:   Starter circuitry;  HT stuff;  fuel gauge.
Fuses in box under steering column are all okay.
At least one fan (? the Kenlowe) is okay.

Yes, the engine starts and runs fine!

Conclusions so far:

Battery overcharging - possibly due to problem in shunt box and/or
generator box.

Solution:

Open shunt box and generator box up. Compare with spares. Replace as need
be (suspect replacement of complete boxes easiest option).

Replace batteries.
Replace bulbs.
Replace blinker   (possibly working, but my guess is it isn't)
Replace any other bits.

So now for the questions:                 :-)

Where the heck's my blinker unit?
Where are all these relays that are in the circuit diagrams?
Any one any ideas how I can test a lot of these more obscure bits?
Some bits are easy - eg. horn & wipers  should be easy to test.

How do I test the generator itself?  I know the coils are fine:  otherwise
the engine wouldn't run.
I suspect this means the diodes are fine - any checks that anyone knows of?

Now, if only we had some fine weather for the next few days whilst I sort
this out...

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109" sickly FFR)

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 07:52:00 -0400
Subject: Conversions

A current url for conversions is http://pos.net/ref/conv/conv_ndx.htm

Convert your wheelbase to cubits, your capacity to firkins etc

Trevor and Miss Golightly 1962 SIIA 4.888888888  powered by
0.0558Firkin,petrol

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 98 08:38:26 EST
Subject: Re: Oil v grease

FWIW, pack my bearings with grease when I have them apart. Sometimes. There is 
never any grease left when I pull them apart again. I also notice there is 
always a good amount of oil in there when I open them up.
 Nuff said.

later I 

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 98 08:35:30 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Oil v grease

>> Note that the swivel housing oil cannot pass the stub axle UNLESS the joint 
>>washer behind the stub axle has deteriorated. 

what they mean is that the oil can't pass the *mounting flange* of the stub 
axle.

> In the case that it has, the oil will leak out behind the backing plate and 
>therefore CANNOT GET INTO THE WHEEL BEARINGS. 

i.e.,  the oil leaks out between the mounting flange of the stub axle and 
drips down the backing plate. Therefore not being allowed to go into the wheel 
bearings

>At the end of the stub axle a wimpy felt and rubber seal is designed to keep 
>oil in the the stub axle and out of the hub.  This oil would have arisen from 
>the swivel housing, assuming the seal at the end of the axle casing is 
>intact.

all this does is keep the little metal hubcap from getting full of oil. They 
don't work that well.

>Therefore, while there is technically no seal directly between the swivel 
>housing and the hub, by design, there is no egress of oil into the hub unless 
>a seal fails.

you should've listened to Limey Bill. Now you've done gone and started not 
making sense which confused the heck out of all of us except for those of us 
who were already confused, or who weren't confused. Or something like that.
Can we talk about something else?

later
DaveB

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 15:08:07 +0200
Subject: Re: speedo acting up

This must be one of the most regular calls for help on the list -

1.
remove transmission axle from transmission brake drum

2.
remove split pin from castle nut in centre of drum

3.
Tighten hard (#27 socket)

4.
replace pin and reassemble axle

should solve it!

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 10:00:38 EDT
Subject: Tef-Gel (& Winch cables)

I relocated the 4 solenoids that control the in-and-out of my electric winch
so I needed slightly longer cables. I needed 3 cables about 3 feet long. The
originals were 4AWG gauge. I was able to find a red and black the needed
length in 4AWG, but ran out. A local dealer had a scrap of 1AWG he said would
work, and he told me to put it on the "winding-in" side of the circuit. Boy,
it is much bigger than the 4AWG cable. It ought to work, right? Any detriment
in going to a larger diameter cable and adding 4 inches to it? He also
graciously offered to put heat shrink on the terminal ends; he put on a type
that gets gooey on the inside and seals the terminal-cable joint, even though
the cable was tinned copper...

 Here's why I had to (also wanted to) relocate the control box: I took off the
bullbar and put on lampgrilles instead. The lamp grilles interfered with the
OEM location f the control box, which was above the bumper on the pass side. I
took out the headlight bucket, and stuffed the solenoids below the top of the
wing, behind the headlight, and bolted the thing to the wheel well. It needed
an extra 4 inches of cable to be hid there. The plug is now mounted up front
near the grille (kinda like where stage 1's have a bonnet key ?)

Anyway, when I went to pick it up, he had a product called Tef-Gel on the
counter. It says it is to be used in anti-corrosion applications, hydraulic
end fittings, etc., and, "when stainless fasteners are used in an aluminum
environment", which aroused my interest.

Anyone heard of it, or better yet, use it? He carries that, Boeshield
(supposedly from Boeing?) and some CRC products and says he uses each where
they work best, but told me there are definitely places that Tef-Gel works
best. I'm going to go back and get some to see what it really is.

pat
93  110

------------------------------

From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Date: 	Wed, 15 Apr 1998 16:23:17 +0200
Subject: Re: Tef-Gel (& Winch cables)

I don´t know if Tef-Gel is good or not but there is a site which might be
of interest

http://www.dalnet.se/~ttc/tefgel_eng.htm

/Peter

Peter Thoren
Work:  Department of Genetics
       Uppsala University
       Box 7003; S-750 07 Uppsala
       Phone: +46 18 67 12 69
       Fax:   +46 18 67 27 05
       e-mail peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se

Home:  Långmyrtorp
       740 20 Vänge
       Phone/fax: +46 18 39 20 56
       e-mail: same as above

------------------------------

From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 10:23:32 -0700
Subject: Re: Oil vrs Grease

Nate wrote:
At the end of the stub axle a wimpy felt and rubber seal is designed to 
keep
oil in the the stub axle and out of the hub.  This oil would have arisen 
from
the swivel housing, assuming the seal at the end of the axle casing is 
intact.

Nate;  The wimpy felt seal seats itself into the drive hub and onto the 
end of the axle (or halfshaft) end, whereupon the flat washer and nut 
attach the two together. Itn only keeps the oil from leaking into the 
cap, and if you drove without a cap, it would then leak onto the 
'outside' of the wheel. I would hazard a guess that the seal at this 
point is about 1/2" away from the stub (spindle) and therefore cannot 
seal against anything. Take a look as to how the axle end goes into the 
drive hub, and you'll notice that the axle has a flange or stop built out 
of the expanded splines that end up resting against the inside of the 
drive hub.
>.

And Bill wrote
 > There is'nt an axle seal in the rear axle, therefore oil passes along 
 >the
 >half shaft directly to the wheel bearings.
>.
True
>.
 >In the front axle the seal keeps oil in the diff from entering the  
>swivel
>housing, there is no seal between the swivel housing and the front wheel
>bearings, therefore if oil is present in the swivel housings it can pass
>into the front wheel bearings in the clearance between the quarter shaft 
>and
>the stub axle bore..
True
>.
 >Please re read my original posting !!!
>.
What did I say? I just may have read your posting wrong.

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 11:52:15 -0400
Subject: Re: 530 Land Rovers at Easter

If this had happened in the US, the Environmental Protection Agency would 
declare it a SuperFund clean-up site...sorta a mini Exxon Valdez thing. 
Hey, don't tell ANYBODY about Greek Peak!!!

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 11:48:31 -0400
Subject: Re: 110 kph in a Series 1

BARF!

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 15 Apr 98 09:11:56 MST
Subject: An idea on winching from the rear.

From:  David Brown - Graphics Specialist ~SRP~ E-mail: debrown@srp.gov
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
                                    Pers. E-mail: rovernut@hotmail.com
Has anyone run a length of PVC pipe from front to rear of their 4-wheeler to
run winch cable through, in the event of needing to winch yourself from the
rear? Obviously, you'd want to have a loop or something (Roller fairlead?)
at the rear of the PVC pipe so the cable won't break it during an angled
pull, and a cap on the front (and rear?) to prevent mud and debris from
entering. (removable cap, of course)

If you're stuck to the frame in muck, this would make it a lot easier to run
the cable to the rear, in case you couldn't winch from the front.

Of course, this would add some sharp angles to the cable, as it exits the
front roller, and makes a "U" turn to the underside of the rig, but in a
pinch...

Anyone ever do this? Does it work?

Dave (system down and I'm bored) Brown

 Never give up your life for          #=======#         _____l___
 anything that death can take         |__|__|__\___    //__|__|__\___
 away.            -annonymous  __\ _  | _|  |   |_ |}  \__ - ____ - _|}
                               O---O  "(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)

------------------------------

From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Bj=F8rnung_Jensen?=" <bjjen13b@online.no>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 18:10:59 +0200
Subject: Re.: viscous coupled fan

I can only answer based on my experience with Range Rovers.

1) As I understand it, the viscous fan (on a RR) is designed to slip under
initial start-up and rapidly increasing rpm's, it will also slip under high
rpm since the extra cooling gained by to high fan speed is not very much. It
is not temperature triggered, although I guess temperature  will affect the
degree off slip. The intention is to reduce noise and loading on the
belt/engine.

2) That sounds about right.

Bjørnung Jensen
Norway

------------------------------

From: "Dr R.D.Thomson" <rthomson@mech.gla.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 17:26:04 +0100
Subject: tyre change

I need to replace the tyres(UK)/tires(US) on my S3 109 and am thinking of
taking the opportunity to change from cross-plies to radials, on the
grounds that the latter appear to be cheaper (I didn't believe this at
first).   Any thoughts from those who've used both?   It does go off-road
but not onto seriously scary stuff.

I take it the nearest common R size to a 7.50 x 16 is a 205 x 16?

Regards,

Ron Thomson
http://www.mech.gla.ac.uk/~rthomson

GUSLRC
http://www.mech.gla.ac.uk/~rthomson/guslrc.htm

------------------------------

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 12:03:56 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: tyre change

On Wed, 15 Apr 1998, Dr R.D.Thomson wrote:

> I need to replace the tyres(UK)/tires(US) on my S3 109 and am thinking of
> taking the opportunity to change from cross-plies to radials, on the

I haven't actually driven a Land-Rover with bias-ply (obUKoGBaNI:
cross-ply) t*res, but have other things.  The differences have been
pretty noticable, less noise, better stability, less of that annoying
tendancy to explode under heavy braking from high speeds.  You probably
want tubes, epending on your wheels.  Make sure that they are radial type,
regular tubes will fail quickly.  Michelin do them, and I have been told
Avon do as well.   

> I take it the nearest common R size to a 7.50 x 16 is a 205 x 16?

206X16 are somewhat wider and shorter than 750X16.   Radial tires are
available in 750R16, even in the US.  You should have less of a problem in
the UK.  

David

------------------------------

From: "Huub Pennings" <HPS@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 19:08:19 +0100
Subject:       Re: An idea on winching from the rear.

Wouldn't PVC be to brittle, probably shatters when cold, leaving you 
stranded, better use some heavy stainless steel plumbing instead.Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

------------------------------

From: Michael Fredette <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 10:23:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: An idea on winching from the rear.

 
 Wouldn't PVC be to brittle, probably shatters when cold, leaving you 
 stranded, better use some heavy stainless steel plumbing instead.Regards,
Hubb

  Or just use a 101FC pto winch. It has pulleys that allow you to winch
from the front or rear as needed. :^)

Mike Fredette
Now 3 101FC's "Ridiculous!" A direct quote from my wife. 
 

------------------------------

From: kerryscott@usa.net
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 17:47:23
Subject: Shipping Safari Roof

I am trying to get an 88" Safari Roof from its current owner in upstate New York
to me here in central Virginia.  I would appreciate any advice on how to
accomplish this without damaging the roof.  Any Thoughts?

Kerry Scott

------------------------------

From: "Chris Dillard"<cdillard@Aholdusa.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 14:00:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Shipping Safari Roof

Try Yellow Trucking. I know that they use to haul smaller(less than full
truck loads) consumer items and would delivers directly to your door. It's
been a while since I have used them, so I'm not sure if they still offer
this service. YOu might also want to call somebody like RN, or AB who ships
similar racks and ask how they ship them and what carriers they use as well
as rates to expect to pay. Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Christopher Dillard           91 RR County
Databse Administrator         Phone: 864-987-8633
BONUSCARD Marketing           Fax:  864-675-5456
Ahold USA (BI-LO Inc.)        E-Mail:cdillard@aholdusa.com
Greenville SC USA

------------------------------

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 13:25:06 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Shipping Safari Roof

On Wed, 15 Apr 1998 kerryscott@usa.net wrote:

> I am trying to get an 88" Safari Roof from its current owner in upstate New 
York
> to me here in central Virginia.  I would appreciate any advice on how to
> accomplish this without damaging the roof.  Any Thoughts?

Call all the LTL trucking companies and brokers who have a termminal near
where you are shipping from.   There can be a substantial price differance
between companies.  They will want to know dimensions and weight.  It is
going to be sort of expensive, since the roof won't fit on a single
pallet.  

David

> Kerry Scott
> to me here in central Virginia.  I would appreciate any advice on how to
> accomplish this without damaging the roof.  Any Thoughts?

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 20:30:25 +0200
Subject: Re: An idea on winching from the rear.

I know that this will go against the grain for those owners who like the
idea of a big, beefy and expensive WARN on the front of their wagon
(Yep, I'd love one too, but that's another story) but why fix the winch
to the wagon?

I have seen portable, chunky 12 and 24 volt electric winches, which
resemble a suspended workshop winch, they have a hook or shackle on one
side, which fixes to the pintle or towing hook, and a wire coming out of
the other side.

If the car has heavy duty 12 volt supply front and rear, then the winch
can be kept inside the car until it is needed - out of the way of
thieves, vandals, frontal collisions, suddenly appearing oak trees, and
unfortunatly, other 4WD admirers. But clean, dry and working.

The winch can be used at both ends, and easily moved from one wagon to
another. Portability means that it can be used for many other purposes,
which as a land rover owner sets very little limitations other than the
imagination?

I am thinking og bying one of these myself? Whjat do others say? Winches
- are they expensive status sybolbs with 50% chance of being at the
wrong end at the wrong time - or is there logic in the fixed winch idea?

lets not start a war, but....

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: slade@imagina.com (Michael Slade)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 11:41:51 -0700
Subject: Re: An idea on winching from the rear.

Dave queries...

>Anyone ever do this? Does it work?
>Dave (system down and I'm bored) Brown

Rather than do that, i'm putting a Warn XD9000i on a reciever mount that
can switch from front to back.  Seems a lot easier and better on the winch
and car in the long run.

I have a neat photo of the chief engineer at Warn using his winch on the
rear of his flat-fendered jeep if you want to see how it looks/works/etc...

Of course, if you have a permanent front winch, you'll need to figure
something else out.

Later,

Michael Slade
Portland, Oregon
'90 RR (test vehicle)

------------------------------

From: "Chris Dillard"<cdillard@Aholdusa.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 14:39:34 -0400
Subject: Re: An idea on winching from the rear.

I've always wondered if a winch such as this would be as heavy duty, or be
as sturdy as a mounted winch. I've seen the ads for such models in RN and
AB but have never really heard anything about them. (good or bad) Has
anyone on the list purchased and used one of these models? If so, what kind
of experience have you had? The concept of being able to move the winch
from front to back seems to make logical sense, but how practical it would
be remains the question?

Cheers,
Christopher Dillard
Databse Administrator         Phone: 864-987-8633
BONUSCARD Marketing           Fax:  864-675-5456
Ahold USA (BI-LO Inc.)        E-Mail:cdillard@aholdusa.com
Greenville SC USA

------------------------------

From: "Herman L. Stude" <hermans@krts.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 14:16:08 -0500
Subject: Re: An idea on winching from the rear.

Chris Dillard wrote:
> I've always wondered if a winch such as this would be as heavy duty, or be
> as sturdy as a mounted winch. I've seen the ads for such models in RN and
> AB but have never really heard anything about them.  The concept of being 
able to move the winch
> from front to back seems to make logical sense

My class III receiver is only rated for 5,000lbs.  Many of the winches
that mount to receiver hitches are rated well over that.  I am also
curious about running long electrical leads to the rear of said truck
from the engine compartment with lots of current.

SOunds like a great idea, I like versatility!!

------------------------------

From: "Chris Dillard"<cdillard@Aholdusa.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 15:22:27 -0400
Subject: Re: An idea on winching from the rear.

My rec. hitch I believe is rated @ 8 or 10,000 lbs, which I would think
would be sufficient for the 8,000lb model sold by AB or RN unless the rec.
needs to be rated higher than the actual capacity of the winch. (not sure
on this)  As far as the leads go, this is a good question. Anyone,
Anyone!!??

Cheers,
Christopher Dillard           91 RR County
Databse Administrator         Phone: 864-987-8633
BONUSCARD Marketing           Fax:  864-675-5456
Ahold USA (BI-LO Inc.)        E-Mail:cdillard@aholdusa.com
Greenville SC USA

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 12:32:04 -0700
Subject: RE: An idea on winching from the rear. - looong cables

As far as long power cables go, it should be do-able.  I have heard of
lots of people putting their batteries in the back of the vehicle for
better weight distribution.  The thing to remember is that bigger,
heavier cable handle more current with less heat and voltage loss.

Does anyone know of a WEB reference table for automotive wiring
standards for wire gauge Vs current capacity and or power loss Vs cable
length or some such??

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/
Victoria BC  Canada

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 15:32:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Shipping Safari Roof

Re: Roof transport:

Speaking as one who drove a 109 from Massachusetts to Maryland to pick up a
canvas and fittings - drive it.

It can be done in a weekend...and shippers are gorillas.

               aj"This way you've no one to blame but you..."r

------------------------------

From: "Chris Dillard"<cdillard@Aholdusa.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 15:37:50 -0400
Subject: RE: An idea on winching from the rear. - looong cables

Check out:    www.powerup.com

This, as I remeber, gave a good representation of what wire size holds what
voltage etc.!!

Cheers,

Christopher Dillard
Databse Administrator         Phone: 864-987-8633
BONUSCARD Marketing           Fax:  864-675-5456
Ahold USA (BI-LO Inc.)        E-Mail:cdillard@aholdusa.com
Greenville SC USA

------------------------------

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 14:56:06 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: An idea on winching from the rear. - looong cables

On Wed, 15 Apr 1998, Chris Dillard wrote:

> Check out:    www.powerup.com

The link to the chart is broken off their main page, try 
http://www.powerup.com/Wire%20Guage%20Selection%20Chart.htm

David

I knew there was a reason I memorized the ASCII table in hex....

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 22:26:01 +0200
Subject: Re: An idea on winching from the rear.

two 8 or 10mm2 welding cables should be nmore than AMPle (sorry), it is
a good idea with heavy loads to run the negative cable as well, rather
than relying on the chassis. given an adequate cable, then 3 metres from
front to back should not be a problem.

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 98 14:45:57 -0700
Subject: New JPEGs in my Web site

Sorry to bomb the whole list with this.

A lot of people have asked me to put recent photos of The Green Rover 
into my web site and I did not keep a list of the requesters.

I have just scanned in some very recent pictures and uploaded them.

To see the current Green Rover photos, enter my web site 

( http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman )

Click on the Land Rover button at the bottom of the frame.  This will 
take you to my Land Rover subject index.

About half way down the page are my image gallery links.  The link to 
Green Rover images will get you there.  If you click on the thumbnail 
images a larger more detailed version will load.

I did not have time to link the last five or so pictures to their 
thumbnail images.  I will do that after I return from The Land Rover 50th 
anniversary trans-American border to border trek in early May.

I wish it would just stop raining for a couple of days in a row.  I was 
not able to finish up the last work I had planned because of the rain and 
now I have loaded the car in the rain.  Maybe I should move back to 
Seattle where it doesn't normally rain this much.

Well I'm off for British Columbia then Mexico, then home again.  A quick 
3000 plus mile jaunt.

Take care 

TeriAnn Wakeman                       The Green Rover, rebuilt and
Santa Cruz, California                and maintained using parts from
twakeman@cruzers.com                  British Pacific 800-554-4133
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman      

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 98 14:45:50 -0700
Subject: Commercial content

IF YOU ARE OFFENDED BY COMMERCIAL CONTENT DELETE NOW
/

I would be remiss in my duties if I didn't send out a public Thank you to 
British Pacific, a US based Land Rover parts and accessories supplier .

I am leaving in a couple of hours to participate in The Land Rover 50th 
anniversary trans-American border to border trek.  The Green Rover has 
been sponsored on this trip through the generosity of British Pacific.  
Since I have recently been laid off from my job of 8 years at Apple 
Computer, I would not have been able to get my car back into shape to 
make this trip without the help of British Pacific.

The Trek itself will go from Roosville, British Columbia (19 April)  to 
Mexico, crossing at Douglas Arizona (28 April). 

The official URL for the trek website is:  
http://www.fireworks.ca/lrover/index.html

They plan to have daily updates of the trek.

So to those of you who work at British Pacific, Thank you.  I could not 
have made this trip without your kind and generous support.  

I have always appreciated being able to purchase genuine LR and OEM parts 
at good prices directly from Land Rover enthusiasts.  And I certainly 
appreciate dealing with courteous honest people who work hard to provide 
me with the best quality part for the best price.

Thanks and take care,

TeriAnn Wakeman                       The Green Rover, rebuilt and
Santa Cruz, California                and maintained using parts from
twakeman@cruzers.com                  British Pacific 800-554-4133
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman      

------------------------------

From: Michael Fredette <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 14:56:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: 2-101 Forward Controls for sale

Ok, the time has come. I have two 101 Forward Controls + spares
for sale, for real, legal. $10K for both, pictures available to
serious inquiries, email for details.

Rgds
Mike Fredette
Portland, Or.
mfredett@ichips.intel.com

------------------------------

From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 18:14:18 -0400
Subject: RE: reservoir blues

"K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com> wrote:

>When I did that job I had a tossed out dental tool. The kind the bastards
>scrape along your tooth!.
>Go to your dentist and tell him he owes ya' one. Then you can slide the
>"hook" in and lever the clip out....At least it worked when I did it a few
>years ago!

While that may work to remove the circlip (I used a special circlip tool),
I still say there is no way to get to the circlip without removing the
reservoir first - destructively.  When you refit a new reservoir, you place
the circlip in a groove on the nipple, then slide it into the tapered
opening in the master cylinder.  The circlip compresses, 'til it reaches
the groove in the MC, locking it in place.  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 17:20:10 -0500
Subject: I can't belive my luck! (but bad one) 

Definitely this has not been my day!
As I previuosly mentioned, I saw a 1972 SIII 109 sitting all a lone in a 
parking lot, and was told that it had been there for a couple years. For a week 
I've been trying to get information on it, but the owner is kind of a very busy 
man.
At last, today a secretary told me that when they requeted information from 
him, he was planning to give it away, because he was tired of seeing it there, 
so she was going to get the information for me.
Later on I called again. She told me to wait a moment, to bring the 
information. I waited for about 5 minutes on the phone, she came back and asked 
me to wait a little more. Finally, after nearly 10 minutes, she came back and 
told me: "NO, HE SAYS HE'S NOT GOING TO SELL IT ANY MORE." 
What? Two years the car standing there with the FOR SALE sign on it, and 
suddenly when thay got a client for it, the owner changes his mind!!
It sound too fishy to me.
I guess someone else, in there, heard the ridiculus price he was asking and 
decided to take the deal out of my hands!!
I had already fallen in love with this car.
Well, some you can have, some you don't.
Sorry to bother you all with this sad story, but I had to tell someone. 
It's going to be a sad night.

LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ
JCCCSA Departamento Legal
lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
lgutierr@hotmail.com

------------------------------

From: Rovergo <Rovergo@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 20:27:33 EDT
Subject: red engine blocks

your engine has been repainted all 2.25's were painted light green outside and
a tenemic paint ranging from light red to ruddy brown inside to help speed oil
shedding off rough block surface. please excuse this is first posting to a
list ?.

------------------------------

From: lndrvr@ldd.net (BRIAN WILLOUGHBY)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 19:45:19 -0500
Subject: Re:  Red Engine Blocks

Interestingly enough, the block in my 1960 was painted "General Motors
Blue".  Perhaps the previous owner, knowing that Detroit Diesel is a
wholy-owned subsidary of GM, felt that the above corporate colour was the
same for GM-produced diesels and hence Land-Rovers.  Other than this shade
of blue, there was no red present of mine; I know that mine had been
repainted and I suspect that yours has been as well.  Mine now has a fresh
coat of Detroit Diesel Alpine Green and it looks great--and original.

Brian

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 21:11:26 -0400
Subject: Oil v grease

Series 3 from Oct 80 were fitted with an oil seal inside the stub axle to
prevent oil from passing from the swivel housing into the wheel bearings. 
 Since all the correspondents on this subject have been from the colonies
where 1980 ser 3 are not  ( legally ) permited, In the US all standard
series vehicles ( 1's 2's 2A's and 3's )  therefore have the facility for
oil to freely pass from the swivel housing into the wheel bearing housing.
   This will be my last posting on this subject, I shall continue to believe
the world is flat !!
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 22:18:03 -0300
Subject: Re: welding

William L. Leacock wrote:
> > In a proper weld the joint is stronger than the base metal. You will
> seldom if ever see a good weld break.
>  hardly the place to get into a discussion on metallurgy, but as a rule of
> thumb welds are consdered to be 30% weaker than the parent material, the
> weaker area is generally the region between the weld and the base metal, an
> area called the heat affected zone. ( we make  about 600 miles of aluminum
> weld a day in my place of employment )

That must be an awfully long extension cord on the welder :-) 
  John and Muddy

------------------------------

From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 22:39:42 -0300
Subject: Re: Conversions

Adrian Redmond wrote:
> Thanks bill, but it says "this server does not have a DNS entry"
> any ideas?
> Adrian Redmond

Works fine for me, may be you are firkin around the wrong way

 
> CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
> Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
> telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
> telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
> telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
> mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
> mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
> Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: IBEdwardp <IBEdwardp@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 21:45:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Red Engine Blocks

I believe the popular wisdom is that the 2.25's were painted "Detroit Diesel
Blue". This is a fairly common color which I have bought at Big Lots (usual
disclaimers) in spray cans. More interestingly, a few years ago, I bought at
the same place Hammerite in "Sea Green" which appears to be virtually the same
hue. They also had other colors. It was in in both spray cans and half pints.
Does anyone know a current source for Hammerite in the US? Recently, I saw
somewhere that Hammerite and Waxoyl are made or sold by the same people.  This
stuff is impressive and 

------------------------------

From: IBEdwardp <IBEdwardp@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 21:51:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Red Engine Blocks

Oops!  Sorry.  Hit the wrong key before I was ready.  As I was saying: "I
believe the popular wisdom is that the 2.25's were painted "Detroit Diesel
Blue". This is a fairly common color which I have bought at Big Lots (usual
disclaimers) in spray cans. More interestingly, a few years ago, I bought at
the same place Hammerite in "Sea Green" which appears to be virtually the same
hue. They also had other colors. It was in in both spray cans and half pints.
Does anyone know a current source for Hammerite in the US? Recently, I saw
somewhere that Hammerite and Waxoyl are made or sold by the same people.  This
stuff is impressive and:" -  adheres without primer to aluminum and galvanized
- I sure wish I could find it again.  Any ideas?"

Ed Bailey
66 S2a 88
Somewhere in East Tennessee

------------------------------

From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 10:48:46 -0400
Subject: Assistance needed

We have one of our Toronto guys in need of assistance in the Seattle
area. Larry Berti left Toronto two weeks ago on a two month "lets do the
West Coast" tour in his 88.He `phoned last night from the San Juan
Island area in an agitated and frustrated state. Seems he is
experiencing intermitant loss of power which he cannot diagnose. I have
given him instructions over the `phone but he needs some moral support
before he sells it to the first passer-by. He is mobile but occasionally
can only pull 2nd.gear.Could be fuel, could be ignition. He`s checking
both.Is there anybody out there in the Washington/ north Oregon area
willing to assist or direct him. I would appreciate replies which I will
pass on to him the next time he `phones. LandRover Owner magazine.
August 1997 Page 108 has a picture of his lovely countenance.

------------------------------

From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 10:57:34 -0400
Subject: Re: 2-101 Forward Controls for sale

What spares do you have for sale Michael?

Michael Fredette wrote:

> Ok, the time has come. I have two 101 Forward Controls + spares
> for sale, for real, legal. $10K for both, pictures available to
> serious inquiries, email for details.
> Rgds
> Mike Fredette
> Portland, Or.
> mfredett@ichips.intel.com

------------------------------

From: torque@pacific.net.sg (Lawrence Lee)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 11:18:09 +0800
Subject: Re: tyre change

>I take it the nearest common R size to a 7.50 x 16 is a 205 x 16?
The nearest size for a 7.50 x 16 crossply to a radial is 7.50R 16. Brands
to look out for that carry this size are :
        Michelin XCL
        Avon
        Olympic Steeltrek

In metric, the closest I've found to match the 7.50 x 16's diameter is
235/85 R16. This size however, is broader than the 7.50 x 16 and needs a
broader rim like 8J x 16 the original Land Rover steel rims (SER III 109)
are 5.5J x 16. Mounting a 235/85 tyre onto such a rim width is possible,
but the buldgeing sidewalls make the already vague steering of a land rover
more boat-like.

The wider track from these tyres incidentally improve turning radius
although the wider tyre footprint increases fuel consumption a little bit.

Good luck

Lawrence Lee,
'81 Ser III 109 2.6l "Kerbau"  (kerbau is the Malay name for water buffalo,
one that prefers to STAY in the mud)

------------------------------

From: torque@pacific.net.sg (Lawrence Lee)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 11:18:11 +0800
Subject: Land Rover Mecca in the Far East

Took a drive to the Cameron Highlands in Malaysia over the Muslim Haj
holidays last weekend to escape the heat (37degrees C and an 80% relative
humidity in the lowlands).

What struvk me when I got there was the number of Land Rovers driving
around. It felt like a Land Rover Haj! Seemed like the whole mountain is
crawling with Land Rovers, from Ser I LWB pickups to Ser III Station
Wagons, all driving, hauling vegetables from the gardens to the market, and
functioning as taxis. There were a few Defender 110s too.

A local traffic policeman told me there were 4000 land rovers registered to
run those mountain roads but probably  there are 10,000 more unregistered
Land Rovers working the farms.

What surprised me more was that with so many Rovers running around, there
was only 1 mechanic, and I did not spot any broken down Rover in the 3 days
I was there! Accordingly, all the Rovers there have got their engines
replaced with Japanese powerplants. When asked why, I was told that Land
Rover engines are heavy and underpowered although easy to repair. All those
engines were given a new lease of life in the local scrap iron yard
(probably waiting to be melted to make their Proton cars) ;-)

I also heard that Maxwell Hill further north only allow Land Rovers running
around the hill for transport!

Lawrence Lee,
'81 Ser III 109 2.6l "Kerbau"  (kerbau is the Malay name for water buffalo,
one that prefers to STAY in the mud)

------------------------------

From: torque@pacific.net.sg (Lawrence Lee)
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 12:22:38 +0800
Subject: Land Rover Mecca in the Far East 2

Oh and I forgot.

101 Forward Control Land Rovers are a common sight there too

Lawrence Lee,
'81 Ser III 109 2.6l "Kerbau"  (kerbau is the Malay name for water buffalo,
one that prefers to STAY in the mud)

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 00:34:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Red Engine Blocks

In a message dated 4/15/98 9:55:46 PM, you wrote:

>Recently, I saw
>somewhere that Hammerite and Waxoyl are made or sold by the same people.
This
>stuff is impressive and:" -  adheres without primer to aluminum and
galvanized
>- I sure wish I could find it again.  Any ideas?"

Consequently, a lot of people slathered their LRs in it. I kinda liked the
galvanized strips left visible.

Sorry, no info on a source, you might want to try Triple-C...

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 11:26:50 +0200
Subject: Re: Conversions

Could be John!

however, someone sent med this site -

http://pos.net/ref/ref_toc.htm

which has everything from Firkins to Angstroms

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 20:35:46 +1000
Subject: Re: King Off The Road

>I noticed an Aussie advert today for the new T*y*ta 100 Series Land Cruiser
>uses the words "King Off the Road"
>I wonder if they know LR have already used it.

Well, I sent a fax to Toyota today pointing out that the "King of the Road"
words being used in the new 100 Series adverts have been applied to LR for
years.  I included a copy of a photo of the LR t-shirts with the wording
applied.

It'll be interesting to see if the adverts continue or a new advert campaign
surfaces.

I copied the fax to Rover Australia.  I've had no response from either of
them.

------------------------------

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