L-R Mailing Lists 1948-1998 Land Rover's 50th Anniversary

Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents


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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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msgSender linesSubject
1 Lucas Cascardo [cascardo23Re: Alumaloy
2 Krister Bergknut [kriste15Adapter plate SER - Mitsubishi
3 eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heit12dip switches
4 Axel Pawlik [axelpawlik@26Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs
5 "d.h.lowe" [dhlowe@idire16Re: Adjustable spanner
6 Jarvis 64 [Jarvis64@aol.13110 canvas
7 Craig Morgan [C.Morgan@s40Re: Bush Rangies
8 trowe@cdr.wisc.edu 55Re: welding
9 Dean Cording [dean@holly29Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs
10 "Peter Monk" [monk@calyp21Re: Hubs
11 "K. John Wood" [jwrover@18Re: Paint colour of wheel rims?
12 "Dr R.D.Thomson" [rthoms28hi!
13 "Chris Weinbeck, Office 29[not specified]
14 Spenny [Spenny@aol.com> 19Re: 110 canvas
15 GElam30092 [GElam30092@a13Bush Rangies
16 msullivan@paravant.com (11Florida Rally
17 Adrian Redmond [channel629A great deal!
18 Luis Manuel Gutierrez [l75Re: A great deal!
19 Faye and Peter Ogilvie [22Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs
20 NADdMD [NADdMD@aol.com> 28Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs
21 Jeff Gauvin [jeffg@miner29RE: Idiot in Colorado
22 Faye and Peter Ogilvie [31Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs mea culpa
23 Todd_Wilson@ccmail.colum25Re[2]: Greased vs. oiled hubs
24 mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marc23Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs mea culpa
25 Rodrigo Cid Ferreira [ro19Problems with BRAKES
26 ecrover@midcoast.com (Mi19Bush Rangies
27 "Paul M. Pitcher" [pitch39Seeking advice on '91 GDE
28 "Con P. Seitl" [seitl@ns17Re: Re[2]: Greased vs. oiled hubs
29 "William L. Leacock" [wl10Conversions
30 "William L. Leacock" [wl16Gearbox oil seal
31 "William L. Leacock" [wl13King Dick.
32 "William L. Leacock" [wl23OIled bearings
33 Adrian Redmond [channel622Re: Conversions
34 ecrover@midcoast.com (Mi31ECR Yard sale (clearification)
35 "William L. Leacock" [wl13gearbox noise
36 "William L. Leacock" [wl21Oil v grease
38 Adrian Redmond [channel6129Land Rover virus warning
39 "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" 24Reservoir blues
40 "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" 24Lumiweld
41 David Scheidt [david@inf13Re: Land Rover virus warning
43 Adrian Redmond [channel629Re: Land Rover virus warning
45 Luis Manuel Gutierrez [l9RE: Lumiweld
46 Paul Quin [Paul_Quin@pml20Red Engine Blocks?
47 "K. John Wood" [jwrover@14Re: Reservoir blues
48 NADdMD [NADdMD@aol.com> 38Re: Oil v grease
49 David Scheidt [david@inf26Re: Red Engine Blocks?
50 Paul Oxley [paul@adventu36Re: Bush Rangies
51 David Cockey [dcockey@ti38Re: Spot Welding Aluminium
52 David Cockey [dcockey@ti20Re: What's in an original LR tool kit?
53 David Cockey [dcockey@ti18Re: Red Engine Blocks?
55 "Ron Beckett" [hillman@b24530 Land Rovers at Easter
56 "Ron Beckett" [hillman@b20CB Radio, Antenna placement
57 "Ron Beckett" [hillman@b20RR wheels on a series III
58 "Ron Beckett" [hillman@b13Prelude Seats fit LR
59 "Ron Beckett" [hillman@b15110 kph in a Series 1
60 Mick Forster [cmtmgf@mai29Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs
61 torque@pacific.net.sg (L15Re: RR wheels on a series III
62 torque@pacific.net.sg (L22speedo acting up
63 torque@pacific.net.sg (L21viscous coupled fan
64 "Dr R.D.Thomson" [rthoms27Re: S3 power sockets


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From: Lucas Cascardo <cascardo@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 07:03:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Alumaloy

K. John Wood wrote:

> I saw that too...That stuff looks awsome!
> I can just see it becoming one of those must have's on an expedition in
> LR's...
> I've tried order the stuff but the phone number they gave just rings and
> rings with no answer..Do you have any ide what state the company is located
> in?

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> rings with no answer..Do you have any ide what state the company is located
> in?

I believe it's made by Wenton Research and they are located in Conn.

Lucas.
nasd90sw

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From: Krister Bergknut <krister.bergknut@postbox.postnet.se>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 13:13:40 +0200
Subject: Adapter plate SER - Mitsubishi

Where can I find an adaptor plate for a Ser. III that makes it possible to 
install a 2.5 
liter turbo diesel engine from a short Mitsubishi Pajero -91 ?

Please answer to my personal e-mail, since I do not read the Land Rover list.

Krister Bergknut, Norway      krister.bergknutÉpostbox.postnet.se

RR -87 VMD, Disco -91 200 TDI, 88" -74  HT Petrol.

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From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 07:39:57 -0500
Subject: dip switches

Alan Richer wrote
>The generic NAPA headlight dip switch fits the wiring and, while not as
>pretty as the Lucas original, works nicely.

Beauty is (or is not) in the eye of the fellow who is trying to get the old
one loose from a rusty floor panel.

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From: Axel Pawlik <axelpawlik@tinet.ie>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 13:00:54 +0100
Subject: Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs

>Correct.  However, the oil in the swivel housing should not be getting into
>the hub bearings.  The hub bearings are greased (unless you have a very early
>type hub with the plug for oil filling).  The two compartments are separated
>by various seals.

That's what I thought. As I said, the Workshop manual 
states (Op E1-1) "...early hubs are oil filled, while later 
hubs are grease packed. The grease packed hubs provide an
additional means of preventing oil leakage from the final 
drive unit, and it is recommended that the earlier, oil
filled hubs are changed to grease lubrication..."

Of course, maybe they are into selling bearings... :-)

Now, what crossed my mind last night: What do I do
with the freewheeling hubs (if I keep them), grease them
too? They are the AVM things. Anybody have any paperwork
on them?

	Axel

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 20:04:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Adjustable spanner

Oi.......Cut that out Cranfield.! ! ! ! ! ! ! :-)

john cranfield wrote:

> William L. Leacock wrote:
> > John, might I refer you to Land Rover part number 2707 " Adjustable Spanner"
> > in the ser1, 2 and 3 parts lists, there is a picture in the ser 3 list.
> >  I must also confess to being an engineer from North of Watford !!!
> North of Watford, well that explains every thing!!!!!!!   :-)
> John and Muddy

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From: Jarvis 64 <Jarvis64@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 08:08:44 EDT
Subject: 110 canvas

Hi everyone,
Does anyone know how close a 110 canvas top will come to fitting on a 109?
Saw an ad in LRW for some 110 tops pretty doggone cheap.

Thanks,
Bill Rice
64 SIIA 109

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From: Craig Morgan <C.Morgan@soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 13:12:31 +0100
Subject: Re: Bush Rangies

At 04:22 PM 4/13/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Ok. What's this all about??!! I have to admit to being intrigued! 'Fess 
>up Mike. Check out for more info--
>http://www.eastcoastrover.com/BushRangie.html
>--Jason

Looks like someones taken the initiative to import the "Dakar" like kit
cars into the States ...

The "Dakar" is a kit (ie. component) car, manufactured in the UK as a
fibreglass open-top
body which drops onto a standard RR chassis ... with such a light weight
body the thing
just flies. Approach and departure angles are pretty good as well, to my
eye's the only
down side is the pretty ugly frontal aspect (check out the headlight
arrangement, etc) of
the standard Dakar.

Having riden/driven twice in one off-road, a nicely tuned 3.9 Dakar is
pretty quick and great 
fun to throw around, the open-top is a bit of a pain in the UK tho' which
has always put me off
a bit. I seem to remember LRW/LRO doing a piece in the last few months
about a private
construction of one ... good if you've got a sound chassis and a rotten body.

Looks like this is the Aussie version tho', the Bush Rangie ...

See http://4wd.sofcom.com/Conv/Dakar.html,
http://www.team.net/www/ktud/dakar.html or the Australian derivative, the
Bush Rangie, can be found at http://4wd.sofcom.com/Conv/BushRanger.html

Craig

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From: trowe@cdr.wisc.edu
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 08:26:02 -0500
Subject: Re: welding

From: Tom Rowe@CDR on 04-14-98 08:26 AM

cc:
Subject:  Re: welding

> hardly the place to get into a discussion on metallurgy,
sure it is.  :-)

>but as a rule of
>thumb welds are consdered to be 30% weaker than the parent material, the
>weaker area is generally the region between the weld and the base metal,
an
>area called the heat affected zone. ( we make  about 600 miles of aluminum
>weld a day in my place of employment )

I haven't studied weld effects in Aluminum as much as I have in carbon and
stainless, but I know in those metals the weld is the stronger. The heat
affected zone you refer to is in the base metal and can indeed be weaker
than the other areas of the base metal, and the weld itself. If you break a
*good* weld joint and examine it closely, you'll see that the break is
nearly always (if not always) in the heat effected zone. Stress relieving
is often used to help out this situation. Besides reducing stress on the
weld metal itself, it reduces it on the base metal, particulary in the heat
affected zone, especially when the method used is pre & postheating.
My statements of course depend on the proper techniques and filler rod be
used. If you don't use proper proceedures all bets are off.
FWIW I used to be a weldor in the chemical industry where use of wrong
proceedures can have significant negative results. ;-)

For people who are really intrested in the topic, or in proper proceedures,
the American Welding Society (AWS) in Florida has some good publications,
including a published standard on automotive frame welding. They also have
an excellent library of books that can be ordered, (but they aren't cheap).
For general welding information, the Lincoln Electric "Proceedure Handbook
of Arc Welding" is considered to be the Bible of arc welding (which
includes MIG welding, for those new to the field)

Cheers.

Tom Rowe
Network Systems Administrator
WI Center for Dairy Research
Madison, WI
608-265-6194 Fax: 608-262-1578
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu

Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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From: Dean Cording <dean@holly.cbr.aspect.com.au>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 22:26:35 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs

On Tue, 14 Apr 1998, NADdMD wrote:

> In a message dated 4/14/98 3:55:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time, ogilvi@hgea.org
> writes:
> << I got to thinking about the swivel ball housing and the fact that the
>  swivel hinge pin (railco bush) or whatever and axle bearings are lubricated
>  by oil in the swivel hub housing.  If you don't run oil in the swivel
>  housing which splash lubricates the pivot pins apparently via drive shaft
>  rotation, the pins should wear out prematurely because of lack of oil.  >>
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
> type hub with the plug for oil filling).  The two compartments are separated
> by various seals.

This is not true.  Up until revision F pn Series III's oil from the swivel
housing also filled the hub bearings.  How else does the oil leak from the
inner seals?

Dean
=============================================================================
Dean Cording                                   ASPECT Computing P/L
                                               86 Northbourne Ave
Dean.Cording@aspect.com.au  (Work)             Canberra, ACT, 2601, AUSTRALIA
Dean@holly.aspect.com.au    (Private)          ACN. 005 083 670

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From: "Peter Monk" <monk@calypso.math.udel.edu>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 09:45:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Hubs

Hi
Although strictly a beginner at mechanical stuff, I am in the midst of renewing
the seals and bearings on my front axle so I thought I could comment on the
oil versus grease question.  According to the repair manual (I slavishly read
and then forget) early hubs were oil filled (hence the oil filler screw on the
outer part) but the manual recommends changing to grease filled hubs (not
swivel
pin housing) to cut down on the likelihood of oiling the brakes.  Mine are
going
from sand filled (not recommended) to grease filled.

At least thats what I understand....

Peter
67 IIa SWB

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From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 09:52:59 -0600
Subject: Re: Paint colour of wheel rims?

Martin,
Below are the paint codes for the Series Veh's. As for a canopy...I'd have a
look at Paddock. Their's are very reasonable by US standards>
John
DuPont Code     Colour
38500                    (Deep) Bronze Green
38501                    Mid-Grey
38502                    Sand
38503                    Marine Blue
38504                    Pastel Green
38505                    Limestone
38506                    Poppy Red

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From: "Dr R.D.Thomson" <rthomson@mech.gla.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 15:32:32 +0100
Subject: hi!

G'day all,

I've just rejoined after a prolonged absence so this is by way of a test
message and a "hello" to friends and fellow LR sufferers.   Our small club
has about a dozen members and a website which isn't very exciting (since I
don't know enough html) but do drop in on us at:

http://www.mech.gla.ac.uk/~rthomson/guslrc.htm

Regards to all,

Ron Thomson
Ballistics + Impact Group / Sports Engineering Group
Glasgow Uni
http://www.mech.gla.ac.uk/~rthomson

BTW, I've recently started a list for anyone doing R+D in any aspect of
sports-engineering, including motorsport and off-roading.   Details are at:

http://www.mailbase.ac.uk/lists/sports-engineering/

or link from my home page.

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From: "Chris Weinbeck, Office Logic, Inc." <cmw@tiac.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 10:52:17 -0400

John Wood wrote (re lumaweld);

>I saw that too...That stuff looks awsome!
...
>I've tried order the stuff but the phone number they gave just rings and
>rings with no answer..Do you have any ide what state the company is located
>in?

You can order it from Northern Hydraulics inexpensively. 

I posted the phone number and part number to the list about a year ago -I can 
post it to the list again when I get to my office again.

Chris

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 Christopher Weinbeck  Office Logic, Inc.     V (508) 392-0288
   _______             7 Littleton Road       F (508) 692-0897
  |__][_[_\__          Westford, MA 01886    Computerization for
  |___\_|_]__]                                 the health care
    (o)    (o) '69 109" RHD OD 2.6 Dormobile     professional

               Ask me about East Coast Rover Co.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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From: Spenny <Spenny@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 11:04:28 EDT
Subject: Re: 110 canvas

Jarvis64@aol.com wrote...
> Hi everyone,
> Does anyone know how close a 110 canvas top will come to fitting on a 109?
> Saw an ad in LRW for some 110 tops pretty doggone cheap.

it will fit really well if you dont mind the gap between the windscreen and
canvas. :)
if you could sew, it might be worth it, the defender and the series trucks
have radically different windscreens.
but 109 tops can be had cheaply as well, i paid 25 UKP for mine last fall,
(needs a little sewing)

spenny

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From: GElam30092 <GElam30092@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 11:23:56 EDT
Subject: BushRangies

OK.  I looked [at ECR's page].  First question:  what's the difference between
these and the Dakar?  You guys now building kits from Dakar ?? 

Gerry Elam
PHX AZ

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From: msullivan@paravant.com (Mark Sullivan)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 11:43:05 -0400
Subject: Florida Rally

Can someone give me direction to the rally this weekend 

Mark Sullivan
Senior Engineer
Paravant Computer Systems, Inc.

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 16:33:06 +0200
Subject: A great deal!

I have just go myself a greatd deal - one of my custromers has given me
a crane for my workshop.

All I need to do is weld som I joists up to the roof members, and
construct a rolling bridge. The crane is a 380 volt chain winch with a 4
meter travel and a 1.5 ton capacity.

This will make pulling motors and gearboxs fun!

But it weighs a ton! Lets hope that the roof can hold it.

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

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	[ Original post was HTML ]
From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 11:00:48 -0500
Subject: Re: A great deal!

<html><div>Great for you, but its a shame you are so far away! ;-)</div>
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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 06:59:43 -1000
Subject: Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs

Not so Nate.  The wheel bearings are not greased.  There is a seal to keep
the differential oil in the diff and a seal on the hub assembly to keep the
swivel housing oil in the housing and off the brakes.  This is on the
outside of the bearings, not inside.

At 06:41 AM 4/14/98 EDT, you wrote:
>In a message dated 4/14/98 3:55:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time, ogilvi@hgea.org
>writes:
><< I got to thinking about the swivel ball housing and the fact that the
> swivel hinge pin (railco bush) or whatever and axle bearings are lubricated
> by oil in the swivel hub housing.  If you don't run oil in the swivel
> housing which splash lubricates the pivot pins apparently via drive shaft
> rotation, the pins should wear out prematurely because of lack of oil.  >>
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
>by various seals.
>Nate

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From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 13:23:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs

In a message dated 4/14/98 1:14:02 PM Eastern Daylight Time, ogilvi@hgea.org
writes:

<< Not so Nate.  The wheel bearings are not greased.  There is a seal to keep
 the differential oil in the diff and a seal on the hub assembly to keep the
 swivel housing oil in the housing and off the brakes.  This is on the
 outside of the bearings, not inside.
  >>

I may be wrong here Peter, but my recollection is that the brake backing plate
is attached to the swivel ball which is attached to the axle housing --With
appropriate joint for turning : )

The axle comes through the stub axle which is adjacent to the backing plate
and the wheel bearings slip over this whole mess with the axle shaft attached
to the driven plate which rotates the outer portion of the hub.  The stub axle
would have to be removed (I think) to allow oil from the swivel into the wheel
bearing housing.

I'll have to take a look tonight to be sure though

Nate

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From: Jeff Gauvin <jeffg@minerva.co.symbios.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 11:00:59 MDT
Subject: RE: Idiot in Colorado

: Late breaking NEWS...
: 
: It appears that the local dealerships have been overselling the speed =
: nad adgility of the Defender 90....
: In NEWS tonight they are reporting that a male aged late twenties led =
: police on a high speed chase that caused injury to several people...The =
: IDIOT was driving a newly registered Black Defender 90!!!
: 
: The plate said it was sold out of the Solo- Springs dealership!!! =
: Someone down there has forgoten to tell the customer that it is A) not =
: very arrow dinamic...and B) that it sure as hell won't out run a POLICE =
: CAR!!!!

Uh...for the record, that was *NOT ME*  :-)

[I live in Colorado Springs and drive a black D90 which was purchased
at said dealership. Besides, I'm in my early 30s. Plus, if it had been
me I'd have known that the only way to outrun a police car in a D90 is
to head off road!]

--
Jeff Gauvin
'94 D90

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 07:43:19 -1000
Subject: Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs mea culpa

At 06:59 AM 4/14/98 -1000, you wrote:
>Not so Nate.  The wheel bearings are not greased.  There is a seal to keep
>the differential oil in the diff and a seal on the hub assembly to keep the
>swivel housing oil in the housing and off the brakes.  This is on the
>outside of the bearings, not inside.

I am wrong on the location of the hub oilseal.  It is on the inside.  I am
intimately familiar with this seal and should have known better.  Its
function is still the same, however.  To keep oil that comes from the axle
housing through the axle shaft and lubricates the wheel bearings from
contaminating the brakes.  

Someone mentions early and late hubs.  My 1970 has never had grease in the
bearings in 14 years and had no sign of grease in the bearings when I first
tore into it more than 10 years ago.  The same with both my '65's that have
well under 50,000 miles on each.  My '65 109's bearings were actually rusty
because it had sat for years having only rolled 30,000 miles in its long
life and had no sign of having ever been greased.  Maybe the hypoid washes
away the grease.  In reading over the manual I see it does mention greasing
the bearings on assembly but there is no mention of repacking the bearings.
 Do they really mean put them togther with grease and forget them forever??
 Either they are counting on the oil seal failing before the bearings need
to be repacked or the grease is simply an assembly measure.  If the grease
was necessary there would be a repack schedule like most other cars I have
owned.  The Montero called for a repack at 48,000 miles, for instance.  

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From: Todd_Wilson@ccmail.columbia.com (Todd Wilson)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 10:57:24 -0700
Subject: Re[2]: Greased vs. oiled hubs

     OK, enough of all this. I have the RN catalog in front of me so here 
     goes.
     
     The axle spindle
     Hub oil seal         RTC3510
     Inner Hub Bearing    RTC3429
     Hub
     Outer Hub Bearing    RTC3426
     Drive flange gasket  231505
     Drive Flange
     
     That's a unit boys and girls. The spindle is a relatively sealed unit.
     
     The only thing that keeps the oil in the SPH is the Felt Washer 
     (RTC3515), Flat washer (571922), Castle nut (3259)
     
     Part numbers vary after July 1980 for 88" and 109 series III
     
     tew

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From: mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marcus Tooze)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 13:04:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs mea culpa

> In reading over the manual I see it does mention greasing
> the bearings on assembly but there is no mention of repacking the bearings.
>  Do they really mean put them togther with grease and forget them forever??
>  Either they are counting on the oil seal failing before the bearings need
> to be repacked or the grease is simply an assembly measure.  If the grease
> was necessary there would be a repack schedule like most other cars I have
> owned.  The Montero called for a repack at 48,000 miles, for instance.  

Straining my memory, I can't recall bearing repacking on old MGs and TR
maintainance schedules. My '73 TVR schedule doesn't list bearing repacking
(I don't think). Although it lists about 50 things which need
greasing/oiling every 3000 miles.

Maybe back then in the UK, they figured the cars wouldn't last past 50k 
anyway?

M

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From: Rodrigo Cid Ferreira <rodrigo@bancosantos.com.br>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 16:01:35 -0300
Subject: Problems with BRAKES

Have a Discovery V8 97 - Lots of problems with brakes, car does not
brake well and ABS light goes on sometimes (and stays on - for no
reason).  When in a down hill ramp and going over a bump with foot on
the brake pedal - car seems to engage the ABS and therefore loose at
least 5 meters of breaking power.  The brakes also are slow to engage.
Need help.  The car has been 5 times at the dealer here in Brazil
(LandRover Brazil - IZZO) however the problem persists.  If anyone could
forward this email to any technician at Land Rover - I would greatly
appreciate.

Regards,

Rodrigo Cid Ferreira

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From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 15:06:44 -0400
Subject: Bush Rangies

Dear all,
Just to let you know ECR didn't post anything about the Bush Rangie/
Dakars/ Rovers to the lro list. It was clipped from our web page and posted
by another.
I got a private email saying "don't advertise" but I didn't post anything.
Thanks! :-)

From: EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

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From: "Paul M. Pitcher" <pitcher@cahp.nbc.upenn.edu>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 15:20:21 -0700
Subject: Seeking advice on '91 GDE

Hi Folks,

This is my first time posting to this list, I'm not a member, so please
reply directly.

Anyway, there's a '91 Great Divide Edition FS near me here in southeast
PA, and the wife is kind of interested in it.  It fits the description
written by Kevin Kelly at the off-road.com site, and the VIN is:

SALHV1247MA446441

Does it have the 4.2 L?  Can't tell if it's EFI or carb.  Looks like it
needs brake work and a new exhaust system.  80,000 miles.  Seller is
asking $15,500.  

Is this a good deal?  For a one of 400, it seems a worthy investment at
that price. What are the gotchas with these cars at this age?  Mainly
interested in knowing the lineage of the motor and the reputation of the
AT.  As you might guess from my .sig, a bit of major mechanical overhaul
doesn't intimidate me, but the wife needs supreme functionality, not
yard sculpture.  Ever since doing a 1600 mile fishing saga to northern
Ontario in a Series II 109" Diesel in 1982, I've had a latent urge to
own a Rover.  This one's WAY too plush for my taste, but I'd rather be
working on it than the wife's current ride, a '91 Mazda MPV.  

Thanks in advance,
Paul M. Pitcher
'65 Dodge Coronet 2 dr. sedan
'66 Dodge Dart wagon
'67 Chrysler Newport 4 dr.
'68 Dodge W200
'68 Dodge W100
'69 Dodge D200

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From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 15:43:03 -0700
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Greased vs. oiled hubs

Todd Wilson wrote:

>      The only thing that keeps the oil in the SPH is the Felt Washer
>      (RTC3515), Flat washer (571922), Castle nut (3259)

Nope. The felt washer doesn't do that trick. It only keeps the oil from 
making its way into the cap and then out onto the 'outside' of the wheel 
if the cap isn't sealing properly.

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

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From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 16:44:10 -0400
Subject: Conversions

Adrian, for ALL your metric and any  measurement conversions consult
http://entisoft.earthlink.net/scripts/unitsCGI.exe
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 16:57:31 -0400
Subject: Gearbox oil seal

Gerry
 the oil seal on the gearbox output shaft probably failed due to excessive
radial clearance brought on by wear of the taper roller bearings, or poor
maintenance adjustment in the past.  Just replacing the seal without
checking the radial play in the output shaft is a waste of time, the seal
will leak immediately.  There are a number of shims behind the output shaft
housing which can be removed to reduce the radial clearance to an acceptable
limit.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 17:00:22 -0400
Subject: King Dick. 

John and Muddy
>North of Watford, well that explains every thing!!!!!!!   :-)

 Thats why I added it, I knew you would understand !!

Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 17:05:47 -0400
Subject: OIled bearings

Con wrote
 Your oil shouldn't pass from the diff to the wheel bearings if the axle 
case seal is in shape. If it allowed it to do so, it would eevntually 
drain the diff of it's oil, and also build up pressure to a degree, 
probably forcing it out the swivel ball seal and the hub seal onto your 
brakes.

  There is'nt an axle seal in the rear axle, therefore oil passes along the
half shaft directly to the wheel bearings.
 In the front axle the seal keeps oil in the diff from entering the swivel
housing, there is no seal between the swivel housing and the front wheel
bearings, therefore if oil is present in the swivel housings it can pass
into the front wheel bearings in the clearance between the quarter shaft and
the stub axle bore.
 Please re read my original posting !!!
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 23:10:52 +0200
Subject: Re: Conversions

Thanks bill, but it says "this server does not have a DNS entry"

any ideas?

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------
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From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 17:16:37 -0400
Subject: ECR Yard sale (clearification)

Dear all,
Had a lot of respnce to this, so I have to say this before someone drives
from 100's of miles away and doesn't find the part they needed. So here
goes...

Over the year ECR does a lot of work on Rovers, the parts that we sometimes
remove are in nice shape, but have a small dent or something that won't
pass on a restoration. That is the type of stuff we are selling. If someone
went to a Turner engine, we'll sell their old 2.25. If we replaced a wing
due to a dent, we'll sell the old one... OK?, like a scratch and dent sale
type of thing. We aren't selling new stuff or really a ton of stuff either.
The stuff that doesn't pass in a restoration might be just right for the
off road Series Rover though, or the driver.
I just wanted to say that before the people planning to come thought it
might be like opening up Rovers North's inventory! I had inquiries about
everything from new ARB bull bars to tropical tops. So excuse the
"commerical" content, but I didn't want to mislead anyone.
Thanks!

From: EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

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From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 17:16:57 -0400
Subject: gearbox noise

Paul 
Typically the ser gearboxes are noisy in first and reverse due to the gears
being straight cut, the remainder are helical,
 What you are describing sounds like you have probably suffered from the
loss of a gear tooth on the layshaft first gear, a not uncommon problem.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 17:21:21 -0400
Subject: Oil v grease

Nate wrote :-
Correct.  However, the oil in the swivel housing should not be getting into
the hub bearings.  The hub bearings are greased (unless you have a very early
type hub with the plug for oil filling).  The two compartments are separated
by various seals.

Nate

 How many more times.
 There are NO seals  between the front swivel housings and the front wheel
bearing, the seal is between the front diff and the swivel housing, or
between the hub and the stub axle., oil can freely pass allong the quarter
shaft in either direction. 
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 23:56:51 +0200
Subject: Land Rover virus warning

Imagine if you will the following bulletin, which in the coming age of
on-line motoring, will appear on your computer if you are the proud
owner of a modern 4WD with computerised control of all bells and
whistles -

SOLIHULL SOFTWARE SUPPORT UNIT - SOFTWARE BULLETIN              May 1998

Urgent software virus warning to owners of Land Rover Freelander above 
serial number B2633T4777100000.

A batch of automotive coprocessors manufactured by Motorola, type number
84039Z have been found to be infected with a computer virus, due to a 
momentary lapse of computer security at the Lode Lane plant in December 
of last year.

The virus, which is a version of the known BMW "dasautoskaputigungen" 
strain remains dormant until the expiry of the guarantee period,
following
which the following symptoms are typical.

1.
Speedometer characteristics are changed from linear to logarithmic scale

2.
EFI firing sequence chages from 1-3-2-4 to 4-3-2-3, with resulting
damage 
of timing chain and valves

3.
Pressing the cigar lighter releases the electronic bonnet latch, and
flashes
the cabin illumination.

4.
Control commands to indicators and electric seat calibration become
crossed,
indicate left to raise seatback, indicate right to drop seatback to
sleeping
position.

5.
Similarly, headlights now perform indicator function, control is now
patched 
to clutch pedal.

6.
Brake and clutch functions are swapped.

7.
Opening the ashtray 9/16" will engage low ratio.

8.
Windscreen wipers will only function if both passenger door windows are
fully 
open.

9.
Accelerator pedal function becomes reversed - depress to slow down,
release to
speed up. Motor revoloutions per minute is indicated on Fuel guage.

10.
For models fitted with FM radio, motor timing can be tuned using the
tuning 
control, 92.8 Mhz is TDC, tuning to 24hour Techno 102.5 FM achieves 13°
before
TDC. Unfortunatly, most Freelanders are equipped with Blaupunkt radios
which
utilise ADB automatic tuning. Expect timing variations outside city
limits.

11.
Adjusting the electric head-rest will alter the automatic focussing of
the
side mirrors.

12.
Models fitted with electric winches will only pay out 1.5 metres of
wire.

13.
The computer clock will ensure that gearshift positioning is mirrored on
alternate weekdays. After Jan 1st 2000, the configuration will default
to
5 reverse gears and 1 forward gear.

14.
Exhaust aided turbocharging will redirect exhaust fumes via the interior
airconditioning (we recommend turning the wipers on, thus opening the
windows)

15.
The vehicles electronic VIN number will be deleted thus rendering future 
import to NADA areas legislativly impossible.

the above faults are registered on the present version of the vehicle,
which
according to the small print on your purchase agreement is a Beta
version 
for testing in the Lithuanian marked only, we will rectify these faults
in 
future versions of the hardware.

A simple workaround in the meantime is a 1976 SIII diesel.

Brave new world? Was this a hoax, or will history prove us wrong?

Duh....
will rectify these in the next upgrade

-- 
Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 18:01:03 -0400
Subject: Reservoir blues

Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca> wrote:

>Does anyone have a trick for separating the resovoir of the dual master 
>from the base. I'm hung up again on trying to get that little circlip out 
>without damaging the plastic bowl.

Can't be done.  The circlip fits around the nipple into the master cylinder
and it's a *one way trip*. :-( There's no way to remove the reservoir other
than destructively. 

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 18:01:06 -0400
Subject: Lumiweld

K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com> wrote:

>I've tried order the stuff but the phone number they gave just rings and
>rings with no answer..Do you have any ide what state the company is located
>in?

No idea. Bought mine from a display at a gun show.  They might have a web
site, but I've seen similar stuff at well-stocked hardware stores.  i'm
sure Northern Hydraulics carries it in their catalogue.  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 17:16:30 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Land Rover virus warning

 
> 7.
> Opening the ashtray 9/16" will engage low ratio.
 
> Brave new world? Was this a hoax, or will history prove us wrong?

Obviously a hoax.  Freelanders haven't a low range.


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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 00:17:06 +0200
Subject: Re: Land Rover virus warning

You obviously have seen the version without the virus!

:-)

David Scheidt wrote:
> > 7.
> > Opening the ashtray 9/16" will engage low ratio.
> > Brave new world? Was this a hoax, or will history prove us wrong?
> Obviously a hoax.  Freelanders haven't a low range.

-- 
Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------
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[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- 
=_NextPart_000_01BD67C2.AED8C4C0" ]
From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 16:30:42 -0500
Subject: RE: Lumiweld

What are you people planing to "overlap and weld" with this stuff?

[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: application/ms-tnef ]

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 16:50:09 -0700
Subject: Red Engine Blocks?

I think that I might have asked this before but can't remember the
answers...

My 2&1/4 petrol engine block is painted red.  Looks almost poppy red.
The serial number indicates that the engine was manufactured in 1959.
Does anybody else have a red engine?  Just wondering if this is the
factory colour or if it was resprayed during a re-build.  There is no
sign of overspray anywhere so it looks like it was painted when it was
at least partially stripped.

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88 under construction
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/
Victoria, BC  Canada.

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From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 20:33:28 -0600
Subject: Re: Reservoir blues

Sandy
When I did that job I had a tossed out dental tool. The kind the bastards
scrape along your tooth!.
Go to your dentist and tell him he owes ya' one. Then you can slide the
"hook" in and lever the clip out....At least it worked when I did it a few
years ago!

John

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From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 21:34:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil v grease

In a message dated 4/14/98 5:25:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Limey Bill
states:

<<  How many more times.
  There are NO seals  between the front swivel housings and the front wheel
 bearing, the seal is between the front diff and the swivel housing, or
 between the hub and the stub axle., oil can freely pass allong the quarter
 shaft in either direction.  >>

I now refer to the Lindsay Porter Book:  Please turn to page 229:  Note that
the swivel housing oil cannot pass the stub axle UNLESS the joint washer
behind the stub axle has deteriorated.  In the case that it has, the oil will
leak out behind the backing plate and therefore CANNOT GET INTO THE WHEEL
BEARINGS.  Additionally, the seal at the end of the axle casing is supposed to
separate the oil of the axle casing and the swivel housing.

On the other side of the stub axle is the distance piece which in the best
case scenerio seals with the hub "oil" (read oil or grease) seal and the cause
of greasy or oily brake shoes.  

At the end of the stub axle a wimpy felt and rubber seal is designed to keep
oil in the the stub axle and out of the hub.  This oil would have arisen from
the swivel housing, assuming the seal at the end of the axle casing is intact.

Therefore, while there is technically no seal directly between the swivel
housing and the hub, by design, there is no egress of oil into the hub unless
a seal fails.  The halfshaft is bathed in oil of the diff and axle casing and
separately bathed in oil from the swivel housing.

Clear as mud?

Nate

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 20:56:14 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Red Engine Blocks?

On Tue, 14 Apr 1998, Paul Quin wrote:

> My 2&1/4 petrol engine block is painted red.  Looks almost poppy red.
> The serial number indicates that the engine was manufactured in 1959.
> Does anybody else have a red engine?  Just wondering if this is the
> factory colour or if it was resprayed during a re-build.  There is no
> sign of overspray anywhere so it looks like it was painted when it was
> at least partially stripped.

My block isn't red, at least on the outside.  However, I had the sump off
at some point, and the bottom inside was.  I thought that rather odd.  

David

> Paul Quin
> 1961 Series II 88 under construction
> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/
> Victoria, BC  Canada.
> sign of overspray anywhere so it looks like it was painted when it was
> at least partially stripped.

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From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 04:21:44 +0200
Subject: Re: Bush Rangies

I'm not going to get into the whole advertising issue at all! 

I found the posting and the link very interesting. The Bush Rangie looks
very similar to a vehicle called the Rotrax which is locally (SA) built
on a space frame with graphite composite body and a choice of 2X4 or 4X4
drivetrains - not sure about the mill. I know that several have been
supplied to one of the Special Forces brigades (they chuck them out the
back of a C-160 and use them as mobile weapons platforms) and that
they're also sold to one of the Gulf states for their Defence Force.

Anyway, nice site Mike!

Regards

Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za
http://AfricanAdrenalin.com

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From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 22:53:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Spot Welding Aluminium

BRIAN WILLOUGHBY wrote:

> I just purchased a new rear quarter panel to replace a severely
> damaged
> (i.e. unrepairable and ugly) one and would greatly appreciate any
> advice
> fellow listers would like to share about spot welding aluminium body
> panels
> to one another.

I don't have any personal experience, but have watched the fellows in
the shop at work building experimental vehicles. On steel panels they
use frequently a Miller Falls spot welder, but on aluminum they
generally use "plug" welding. Drill a hole through one panel the size of
the desired weld, clamp the two panel together, then fill in the hole
with weld material. A really good job looks like a spot weld. Light
clean up with a Dremel tool and small stone might be needed. This is
also the prefered technique for reassembling panels that were seperated
by drilling out the spot welds. A spot weld drill bit such as sold by
Eastwood (sort of a miniature hole saw) is their prefered tool.

They also use "Cleco" fasteners for holding the panels in place. These
are temporary fastenters which fit through a 1/8" hole and hold panels
in place. They are commonly used for light aircraft work.

The general rule of thumb is that spot welding aluminum takes 3 times
the current of spot welding steel. This is due to the greater electrical
conductivity of al (heat generated is I^2*R). I've suggested trying the
Miller Falls spot welder on aluminum (contrary to the instructions) to
the fellows in the shop, but they haven't been interested. Considering
their experience I'm not going to argue. BTW, they built extra arms for
the spot welder from 1/2" diameter bronze rod to extend the reach.

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From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 22:58:23 -0400
Subject: Re: What's in an original LR tool kit?

David Scheidt provided the LR tool kit list and wrote:

> Somehow I doubt that any of these numbers are still available.

A few are still available from LR. Others are available as New Old
Stock. A bunch of pumps surfaced a few years ago. Triple-C has the
wooden part of the screw jack handles. Others which were used in other
British car tool kits have been reproduced. The Rover logo tire gauge is
probably the hardest to find. I almost lost mine when it fell into the
lawn un-noticed from the tool kit of the then-newly acqured LR.
Fortunately I noticed it a few minutes later.

Regards,
David Cockey

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From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 23:10:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Red Engine Blocks?

Paul Quin wrote:

> My 2&1/4 petrol engine block is painted red.  Looks almost poppy red.
> The serial number indicates that the engine was manufactured in 1959.
> Does anybody else have a red engine?

One of our '60 SII engines is the a slightly greenish grey, which I am
certain is the original color. Since your engine is not original to the
LR it could have been repainted between LRs.

Regards,
David Cockey

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From: "John McMaster" <john@chiaroscuro.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 09:18:17 +0100
Subject: RE: HTML help?

Hi, just add the colour you want in hex RGB (choose your colour in RGB
0-255, then convert to hex in scientific calculator).

<a href="home.htm"><font color="#FFFFFF">your link here</font>

this gives a white link.

cheers

john
______________________
John McMaster
john@chiaroscuro.co.uk

green/purple 110/Massey Ferguson

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From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 22:22:59 +1000
Subject: 530 Land Rovers at Easter

Sorry for the cross-post but I thought you'd like to know that at the 50th
Anniversary LR Celebrations in Cooma, Australia, there were 530 LR of
various types all crowded into one paddock.  There were more at Cooma but
some people didn't take them to the paddock.

It was quite a sight.

I don't know the breakdown of numbers by model but there were 83 Discos and
about 77 Rangies (oh, and 3-4 Freelanders).

I took 11 rolls of film which I'll take to San Francisco.  Some pix will end
up on my web site real soon now.

By heck there were some lovely cars there.  I was very tempted to buy a 1959
Series 1 shorty with ahrd top and tropical roof for $1700.  I rang the bloke
who had it advertised but he wasn't home.

Ron

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From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 19:18:43 +1000
Subject: CB Radio, Antenna placement

>>While we're at it, doe s anybody *ever* find a use for the +/- 12
>>volt power ports on the dash of a series 3?

>Sure!! Lucas made a little device (part number 560617) that plugs
>into the sockets,

What is the spacing of the sockets?  Is it the standard 1" (25.4mm)?  If so,
almost any banana plug adaptor from Hewlett Packard or other electronics
supplier will fit.

I know that Belling-Lee banana plugs fit.  I tried them years ago on a work
LR.

Ron

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From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 19:17:16 +1000
Subject: RR wheels on a series III

>I have a question
>can you fit RR wheels on a series III?
>or the hub just wont fit on the little center hole?

If the SIII is fitted with free-wheel hubs, you won't without cutting the
centres out.  I saw a SIII last weekend with Rangie steel rims fitted.  They
looked terrible with the roughly cut holes.

I am not sure if they'll fit cars without free-wheel hubs.

However, steel Discovery wheels will bolt straight on.  I tried this on an
Australian military trailer axle that I have (and may sell).

Ron

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From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 22:12:27 +1000
Subject: Prelude Seats fit LR

I was at the LR 50th Anniversary and I noticed a nice '59 Series II with
even nicer seats.  I asked the owner what they were from and he said a Honda
Prelude but couldn't remember which year.  I photographed them and will have
the pix developed tomorrow.  If you want a copy of the pix emailed, let me
know.

Ron

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From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 22:55:12 +1000
Subject: 110 kph in a Series 1

I was tootling down to Cooma for the LR 50th Anniversary celebrations when I
was passed by a Series I hardtop pickup.  But I was doing 110kph (68mph) and
the Series 1 was diesel.

I checked it out later and saw it had 6-stud wheels.  A little more
surreptitious checking and I saw it had a 2.2 litre turbo diesel, gearbox
and transfer case from a T*y*ta Hilux

Ron

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From: Mick Forster <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 09:44:38 +0100
Subject: Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs

The relevant section in the Series III Workshop Manual (Land Rover not
Haynes) is operation 51.10.28 where paragraph 15 for refitting the hub
bearings states "Pack the hub with fresh grease".  
Now, paragraph 11 and paragraph 17 refer to the oil seal which fits in
the back of the hub and runs on the stub axle. This seal is the one that
stops oil (not grease but oil!) from getting onto the back plate and
soaking the brake shoes.
Next to operation 51.10.01 is a cross section diagram through a hub
(well, two actually...) this refers to the removal of half shafts. The
last time I replaced a broken half-shaft after removing the drive-flange
I got oil all over the wheel and tyre. Looking at the diagram oil flows
around the half shaft to fill the cavity behind the drive flange, if
there is oil in this cavity then there is oil on the bearings. 
Therefore whether the bearings are greased or not they are going to get
oiled.

Incidentally there is no mention of greasing the wheel bearings in the
maintenance summary chart which has 75 items to be checked at least
every twelve months (oh yes sure I do .... ), luibricating the
prop-shaft gets a mention even using an oscilloscope to check coil
performance, but no wheel bearings.

Mick Forster

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From: torque@pacific.net.sg (Lawrence Lee)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 17:43:16 +0800
Subject: Re: RR wheels on a series III

Since we're on the topic of wheels, does anybody know what offset is
necessary for 8Jx16inch rims to be fitted to a Ser III 109 with 285/85/16
tyres and yet be able to turn decently?

Any comments appreciated

Lawrence Lee,
'81 Ser III 109 2.6l "Kerbau"  (kerbau is the Malay name for water buffalo,
one that prefers to STAY in the mud)

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From: torque@pacific.net.sg (Lawrence Lee)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 17:48:28 +0800
Subject: speedo acting up

Here's an interesting symptom:

At speeds below 80km/h, speedo reads correctly. Above 100km/h, speedo
needle goes backward when accelerating, but bounces to correct-ish reading
when throttle is lifted!

Speedo and speedo cable has less than 30,000km on clock.

Tempted to leave it alone and explain to the cop when I get pulled over for
speeding "but my speedo read 80km/h sir" ;-)

cheers

Lawrence Lee,
'81 Ser III 109 2.6l "Kerbau"  (kerbau is the Malay name for water buffalo,
one that prefers to STAY in the mud)

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From: torque@pacific.net.sg (Lawrence Lee)
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 17:53:45 +0800
Subject: viscous coupled fan

I posted this before but got no response, so I'm trying again, please bear
with me.

1)      Are viscuous fans temperature rated? I understand that the coil of
spring at the front is the temperature sensor.

2)      How tight is "tight enough" for a viscous fan? I heard that the fan
should be free to turn when cold, but not so free as to turn a full
rotation with a smart flick of the blades.

Any comments appreciated

Lawrence Lee,
'81 Ser III 109 2.6l "Kerbau"  (kerbau is the Malay name for water buffalo,
one that prefers to STAY in the mud)

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From: "Dr R.D.Thomson" <rthomson@mech.gla.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 10:04:15 +0100
Subject: Re: S3 power sockets

At 07:18 PM 4/15/98 +1000, you wrote:
>>>While we're at it, doe s anybody *ever* find a use for the +/- 12
>>>volt power ports on the dash of a series 3?
>>Sure!! Lucas made a little device (part number 560617) that plugs
>>into the sockets,
>What is the spacing of the sockets?  Is it the standard 1" (25.4mm)?  If so,
>almost any banana plug adaptor from Hewlett Packard or other electronics
>supplier will fit.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
>I know that Belling-Lee banana plugs fit.  I tried them years ago on a work
>LR.

I tried a number of banana plugs but none of them fitted so I just replaced
the outlets with a more common size.   However these days almost every
accessory comes with a cigarette lighter plug (for how much longer we ask?)
so I might just attach a cigarette lighter socket to the outlets.

Regards

Ron Thomson
http://www.mech.gla.ac.uk/~rthomson/guslrc.htm

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