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msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | Lucas Cascardo [cascardo | 23 | Re: Alumaloy |
2 | Krister Bergknut [kriste | 15 | Adapter plate SER - Mitsubishi |
3 | eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heit | 12 | dip switches |
4 | Axel Pawlik [axelpawlik@ | 26 | Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs |
5 | "d.h.lowe" [dhlowe@idire | 16 | Re: Adjustable spanner |
6 | Jarvis 64 [Jarvis64@aol. | 13 | 110 canvas |
7 | Craig Morgan [C.Morgan@s | 40 | Re: Bush Rangies |
8 | trowe@cdr.wisc.edu | 55 | Re: welding |
9 | Dean Cording [dean@holly | 29 | Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs |
10 | "Peter Monk" [monk@calyp | 21 | Re: Hubs |
11 | "K. John Wood" [jwrover@ | 18 | Re: Paint colour of wheel rims? |
12 | "Dr R.D.Thomson" [rthoms | 28 | hi! |
13 | "Chris Weinbeck, Office | 29 | [not specified] |
14 | Spenny [Spenny@aol.com> | 19 | Re: 110 canvas |
15 | GElam30092 [GElam30092@a | 13 | Bush Rangies |
16 | msullivan@paravant.com ( | 11 | Florida Rally |
17 | Adrian Redmond [channel6 | 29 | A great deal! |
18 | Luis Manuel Gutierrez [l | 75 | Re: A great deal! |
19 | Faye and Peter Ogilvie [ | 22 | Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs |
20 | NADdMD [NADdMD@aol.com> | 28 | Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs |
21 | Jeff Gauvin [jeffg@miner | 29 | RE: Idiot in Colorado |
22 | Faye and Peter Ogilvie [ | 31 | Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs mea culpa |
23 | Todd_Wilson@ccmail.colum | 25 | Re[2]: Greased vs. oiled hubs |
24 | mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marc | 23 | Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs mea culpa |
25 | Rodrigo Cid Ferreira [ro | 19 | Problems with BRAKES |
26 | ecrover@midcoast.com (Mi | 19 | Bush Rangies |
27 | "Paul M. Pitcher" [pitch | 39 | Seeking advice on '91 GDE |
28 | "Con P. Seitl" [seitl@ns | 17 | Re: Re[2]: Greased vs. oiled hubs |
29 | "William L. Leacock" [wl | 10 | Conversions |
30 | "William L. Leacock" [wl | 16 | Gearbox oil seal |
31 | "William L. Leacock" [wl | 13 | King Dick. |
32 | "William L. Leacock" [wl | 23 | OIled bearings |
33 | Adrian Redmond [channel6 | 22 | Re: Conversions |
34 | ecrover@midcoast.com (Mi | 31 | ECR Yard sale (clearification) |
35 | "William L. Leacock" [wl | 13 | gearbox noise |
36 | "William L. Leacock" [wl | 21 | Oil v grease |
38 | Adrian Redmond [channel6 | 129 | Land Rover virus warning |
39 | "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" | 24 | Reservoir blues |
40 | "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" | 24 | Lumiweld |
41 | David Scheidt [david@inf | 13 | Re: Land Rover virus warning |
43 | Adrian Redmond [channel6 | 29 | Re: Land Rover virus warning |
45 | Luis Manuel Gutierrez [l | 9 | RE: Lumiweld |
46 | Paul Quin [Paul_Quin@pml | 20 | Red Engine Blocks? |
47 | "K. John Wood" [jwrover@ | 14 | Re: Reservoir blues |
48 | NADdMD [NADdMD@aol.com> | 38 | Re: Oil v grease |
49 | David Scheidt [david@inf | 26 | Re: Red Engine Blocks? |
50 | Paul Oxley [paul@adventu | 36 | Re: Bush Rangies |
51 | David Cockey [dcockey@ti | 38 | Re: Spot Welding Aluminium |
52 | David Cockey [dcockey@ti | 20 | Re: What's in an original LR tool kit? |
53 | David Cockey [dcockey@ti | 18 | Re: Red Engine Blocks? |
55 | "Ron Beckett" [hillman@b | 24 | 530 Land Rovers at Easter |
56 | "Ron Beckett" [hillman@b | 20 | CB Radio, Antenna placement |
57 | "Ron Beckett" [hillman@b | 20 | RR wheels on a series III |
58 | "Ron Beckett" [hillman@b | 13 | Prelude Seats fit LR |
59 | "Ron Beckett" [hillman@b | 15 | 110 kph in a Series 1 |
60 | Mick Forster [cmtmgf@mai | 29 | Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs |
61 | torque@pacific.net.sg (L | 15 | Re: RR wheels on a series III |
62 | torque@pacific.net.sg (L | 22 | speedo acting up |
63 | torque@pacific.net.sg (L | 21 | viscous coupled fan |
64 | "Dr R.D.Thomson" [rthoms | 27 | Re: S3 power sockets |
From: Lucas Cascardo <cascardo@ix.netcom.com> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 07:03:02 -0400 Subject: Re: Alumaloy K. John Wood wrote: > I saw that too...That stuff looks awsome! > I can just see it becoming one of those must have's on an expedition in > LR's... > I've tried order the stuff but the phone number they gave just rings and > rings with no answer..Do you have any ide what state the company is located > in? [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)] > rings with no answer..Do you have any ide what state the company is located > in? I believe it's made by Wenton Research and they are located in Conn. Lucas. nasd90sw ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Krister Bergknut <krister.bergknut@postbox.postnet.se> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 13:13:40 +0200 Subject: Adapter plate SER - Mitsubishi Where can I find an adaptor plate for a Ser. III that makes it possible to install a 2.5 liter turbo diesel engine from a short Mitsubishi Pajero -91 ? Please answer to my personal e-mail, since I do not read the Land Rover list. Krister Bergknut, Norway krister.bergknutÉpostbox.postnet.se RR -87 VMD, Disco -91 200 TDI, 88" -74 HT Petrol. ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 07:39:57 -0500 Subject: dip switches Alan Richer wrote >The generic NAPA headlight dip switch fits the wiring and, while not as >pretty as the Lucas original, works nicely. Beauty is (or is not) in the eye of the fellow who is trying to get the old one loose from a rusty floor panel. ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Axel Pawlik <axelpawlik@tinet.ie> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 13:00:54 +0100 Subject: Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs >Correct. However, the oil in the swivel housing should not be getting into >the hub bearings. The hub bearings are greased (unless you have a very early >type hub with the plug for oil filling). The two compartments are separated >by various seals. That's what I thought. As I said, the Workshop manual states (Op E1-1) "...early hubs are oil filled, while later hubs are grease packed. The grease packed hubs provide an additional means of preventing oil leakage from the final drive unit, and it is recommended that the earlier, oil filled hubs are changed to grease lubrication..." Of course, maybe they are into selling bearings... :-) Now, what crossed my mind last night: What do I do with the freewheeling hubs (if I keep them), grease them too? They are the AVM things. Anybody have any paperwork on them? Axel ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com> Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 20:04:40 -0400 Subject: Re: Adjustable spanner Oi.......Cut that out Cranfield.! ! ! ! ! ! ! :-) john cranfield wrote: > William L. Leacock wrote: > > John, might I refer you to Land Rover part number 2707 " Adjustable Spanner" > > in the ser1, 2 and 3 parts lists, there is a picture in the ser 3 list. > > I must also confess to being an engineer from North of Watford !!! > North of Watford, well that explains every thing!!!!!!! :-) > John and Muddy ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Jarvis 64 <Jarvis64@aol.com> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 08:08:44 EDT Subject: 110 canvas Hi everyone, Does anyone know how close a 110 canvas top will come to fitting on a 109? Saw an ad in LRW for some 110 tops pretty doggone cheap. Thanks, Bill Rice 64 SIIA 109 ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Craig Morgan <C.Morgan@soc.staffs.ac.uk> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 13:12:31 +0100 Subject: Re: Bush Rangies At 04:22 PM 4/13/98 -0700, you wrote: >Ok. What's this all about??!! I have to admit to being intrigued! 'Fess >up Mike. Check out for more info-- >http://www.eastcoastrover.com/BushRangie.html >--Jason Looks like someones taken the initiative to import the "Dakar" like kit cars into the States ... The "Dakar" is a kit (ie. component) car, manufactured in the UK as a fibreglass open-top body which drops onto a standard RR chassis ... with such a light weight body the thing just flies. Approach and departure angles are pretty good as well, to my eye's the only down side is the pretty ugly frontal aspect (check out the headlight arrangement, etc) of the standard Dakar. Having riden/driven twice in one off-road, a nicely tuned 3.9 Dakar is pretty quick and great fun to throw around, the open-top is a bit of a pain in the UK tho' which has always put me off a bit. I seem to remember LRW/LRO doing a piece in the last few months about a private construction of one ... good if you've got a sound chassis and a rotten body. Looks like this is the Aussie version tho', the Bush Rangie ... See http://4wd.sofcom.com/Conv/Dakar.html, http://www.team.net/www/ktud/dakar.html or the Australian derivative, the Bush Rangie, can be found at http://4wd.sofcom.com/Conv/BushRanger.html Craig ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: trowe@cdr.wisc.edu Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 08:26:02 -0500 Subject: Re: welding From: Tom Rowe@CDR on 04-14-98 08:26 AM cc: Subject: Re: welding > hardly the place to get into a discussion on metallurgy, sure it is. :-) >but as a rule of >thumb welds are consdered to be 30% weaker than the parent material, the >weaker area is generally the region between the weld and the base metal, an >area called the heat affected zone. ( we make about 600 miles of aluminum >weld a day in my place of employment ) I haven't studied weld effects in Aluminum as much as I have in carbon and stainless, but I know in those metals the weld is the stronger. The heat affected zone you refer to is in the base metal and can indeed be weaker than the other areas of the base metal, and the weld itself. If you break a *good* weld joint and examine it closely, you'll see that the break is nearly always (if not always) in the heat effected zone. Stress relieving is often used to help out this situation. Besides reducing stress on the weld metal itself, it reduces it on the base metal, particulary in the heat affected zone, especially when the method used is pre & postheating. My statements of course depend on the proper techniques and filler rod be used. If you don't use proper proceedures all bets are off. FWIW I used to be a weldor in the chemical industry where use of wrong proceedures can have significant negative results. ;-) For people who are really intrested in the topic, or in proper proceedures, the American Welding Society (AWS) in Florida has some good publications, including a published standard on automotive frame welding. They also have an excellent library of books that can be ordered, (but they aren't cheap). For general welding information, the Lincoln Electric "Proceedure Handbook of Arc Welding" is considered to be the Bible of arc welding (which includes MIG welding, for those new to the field) Cheers. Tom Rowe Network Systems Administrator WI Center for Dairy Research Madison, WI 608-265-6194 Fax: 608-262-1578 trowe@cdr.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Dean Cording <dean@holly.cbr.aspect.com.au> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 22:26:35 +1000 (EST) Subject: Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs On Tue, 14 Apr 1998, NADdMD wrote: > In a message dated 4/14/98 3:55:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time, ogilvi@hgea.org > writes: > << I got to thinking about the swivel ball housing and the fact that the > swivel hinge pin (railco bush) or whatever and axle bearings are lubricated > by oil in the swivel hub housing. If you don't run oil in the swivel > housing which splash lubricates the pivot pins apparently via drive shaft > rotation, the pins should wear out prematurely because of lack of oil. >> [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)] > type hub with the plug for oil filling). The two compartments are separated > by various seals. This is not true. Up until revision F pn Series III's oil from the swivel housing also filled the hub bearings. How else does the oil leak from the inner seals? Dean ============================================================================= Dean Cording ASPECT Computing P/L 86 Northbourne Ave Dean.Cording@aspect.com.au (Work) Canberra, ACT, 2601, AUSTRALIA Dean@holly.aspect.com.au (Private) ACN. 005 083 670 ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter Monk" <monk@calypso.math.udel.edu> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 09:45:55 -0400 Subject: Re: Hubs Hi Although strictly a beginner at mechanical stuff, I am in the midst of renewing the seals and bearings on my front axle so I thought I could comment on the oil versus grease question. According to the repair manual (I slavishly read and then forget) early hubs were oil filled (hence the oil filler screw on the outer part) but the manual recommends changing to grease filled hubs (not swivel pin housing) to cut down on the likelihood of oiling the brakes. Mine are going from sand filled (not recommended) to grease filled. At least thats what I understand.... Peter 67 IIa SWB ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com> Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 09:52:59 -0600 Subject: Re: Paint colour of wheel rims? Martin, Below are the paint codes for the Series Veh's. As for a canopy...I'd have a look at Paddock. Their's are very reasonable by US standards> John DuPont Code Colour 38500 (Deep) Bronze Green 38501 Mid-Grey 38502 Sand 38503 Marine Blue 38504 Pastel Green 38505 Limestone 38506 Poppy Red ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Dr R.D.Thomson" <rthomson@mech.gla.ac.uk> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 15:32:32 +0100 Subject: hi! G'day all, I've just rejoined after a prolonged absence so this is by way of a test message and a "hello" to friends and fellow LR sufferers. Our small club has about a dozen members and a website which isn't very exciting (since I don't know enough html) but do drop in on us at: http://www.mech.gla.ac.uk/~rthomson/guslrc.htm Regards to all, Ron Thomson Ballistics + Impact Group / Sports Engineering Group Glasgow Uni http://www.mech.gla.ac.uk/~rthomson BTW, I've recently started a list for anyone doing R+D in any aspect of sports-engineering, including motorsport and off-roading. Details are at: http://www.mailbase.ac.uk/lists/sports-engineering/ or link from my home page. ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Chris Weinbeck, Office Logic, Inc." <cmw@tiac.net> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 10:52:17 -0400 John Wood wrote (re lumaweld); >I saw that too...That stuff looks awsome! ... >I've tried order the stuff but the phone number they gave just rings and >rings with no answer..Do you have any ide what state the company is located >in? You can order it from Northern Hydraulics inexpensively. I posted the phone number and part number to the list about a year ago -I can post it to the list again when I get to my office again. Chris ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Christopher Weinbeck Office Logic, Inc. V (508) 392-0288 _______ 7 Littleton Road F (508) 692-0897 |__][_[_\__ Westford, MA 01886 Computerization for |___\_|_]__] the health care (o) (o) '69 109" RHD OD 2.6 Dormobile professional Ask me about East Coast Rover Co. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Spenny <Spenny@aol.com> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 11:04:28 EDT Subject: Re: 110 canvas Jarvis64@aol.com wrote... > Hi everyone, > Does anyone know how close a 110 canvas top will come to fitting on a 109? > Saw an ad in LRW for some 110 tops pretty doggone cheap. it will fit really well if you dont mind the gap between the windscreen and canvas. :) if you could sew, it might be worth it, the defender and the series trucks have radically different windscreens. but 109 tops can be had cheaply as well, i paid 25 UKP for mine last fall, (needs a little sewing) spenny ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: GElam30092 <GElam30092@aol.com> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 11:23:56 EDT Subject: BushRangies OK. I looked [at ECR's page]. First question: what's the difference between these and the Dakar? You guys now building kits from Dakar ?? Gerry Elam PHX AZ ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: msullivan@paravant.com (Mark Sullivan) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 11:43:05 -0400 Subject: Florida Rally Can someone give me direction to the rally this weekend Mark Sullivan Senior Engineer Paravant Computer Systems, Inc. ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 16:33:06 +0200 Subject: A great deal! I have just go myself a greatd deal - one of my custromers has given me a crane for my workshop. All I need to do is weld som I joists up to the roof members, and construct a rolling bridge. The crane is a 380 volt chain winch with a 4 meter travel and a 1.5 ton capacity. This will make pulling motors and gearboxs fun! But it weighs a ton! Lets hope that the roof can hold it. Adrian Redmond CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 86 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 54 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk Visit our homepages! www.channel6.dk ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
[ Original post was HTML ] From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 11:00:48 -0500 Subject: Re: A great deal! <html><div>Great for you, but its a shame you are so far away! ;-)</div> ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 06:59:43 -1000 Subject: Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs Not so Nate. The wheel bearings are not greased. There is a seal to keep the differential oil in the diff and a seal on the hub assembly to keep the swivel housing oil in the housing and off the brakes. This is on the outside of the bearings, not inside. At 06:41 AM 4/14/98 EDT, you wrote: >In a message dated 4/14/98 3:55:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time, ogilvi@hgea.org >writes: ><< I got to thinking about the swivel ball housing and the fact that the > swivel hinge pin (railco bush) or whatever and axle bearings are lubricated > by oil in the swivel hub housing. If you don't run oil in the swivel > housing which splash lubricates the pivot pins apparently via drive shaft > rotation, the pins should wear out prematurely because of lack of oil. >> [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)] >by various seals. >Nate ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 13:23:22 EDT Subject: Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs In a message dated 4/14/98 1:14:02 PM Eastern Daylight Time, ogilvi@hgea.org writes: << Not so Nate. The wheel bearings are not greased. There is a seal to keep the differential oil in the diff and a seal on the hub assembly to keep the swivel housing oil in the housing and off the brakes. This is on the outside of the bearings, not inside. >> I may be wrong here Peter, but my recollection is that the brake backing plate is attached to the swivel ball which is attached to the axle housing --With appropriate joint for turning : ) The axle comes through the stub axle which is adjacent to the backing plate and the wheel bearings slip over this whole mess with the axle shaft attached to the driven plate which rotates the outer portion of the hub. The stub axle would have to be removed (I think) to allow oil from the swivel into the wheel bearing housing. I'll have to take a look tonight to be sure though Nate ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Jeff Gauvin <jeffg@minerva.co.symbios.com> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 11:00:59 MDT Subject: RE: Idiot in Colorado : Late breaking NEWS... : : It appears that the local dealerships have been overselling the speed = : nad adgility of the Defender 90.... : In NEWS tonight they are reporting that a male aged late twenties led = : police on a high speed chase that caused injury to several people...The = : IDIOT was driving a newly registered Black Defender 90!!! : : The plate said it was sold out of the Solo- Springs dealership!!! = : Someone down there has forgoten to tell the customer that it is A) not = : very arrow dinamic...and B) that it sure as hell won't out run a POLICE = : CAR!!!! Uh...for the record, that was *NOT ME* :-) [I live in Colorado Springs and drive a black D90 which was purchased at said dealership. Besides, I'm in my early 30s. Plus, if it had been me I'd have known that the only way to outrun a police car in a D90 is to head off road!] -- Jeff Gauvin '94 D90 ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 07:43:19 -1000 Subject: Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs mea culpa At 06:59 AM 4/14/98 -1000, you wrote: >Not so Nate. The wheel bearings are not greased. There is a seal to keep >the differential oil in the diff and a seal on the hub assembly to keep the >swivel housing oil in the housing and off the brakes. This is on the >outside of the bearings, not inside. I am wrong on the location of the hub oilseal. It is on the inside. I am intimately familiar with this seal and should have known better. Its function is still the same, however. To keep oil that comes from the axle housing through the axle shaft and lubricates the wheel bearings from contaminating the brakes. Someone mentions early and late hubs. My 1970 has never had grease in the bearings in 14 years and had no sign of grease in the bearings when I first tore into it more than 10 years ago. The same with both my '65's that have well under 50,000 miles on each. My '65 109's bearings were actually rusty because it had sat for years having only rolled 30,000 miles in its long life and had no sign of having ever been greased. Maybe the hypoid washes away the grease. In reading over the manual I see it does mention greasing the bearings on assembly but there is no mention of repacking the bearings. Do they really mean put them togther with grease and forget them forever?? Either they are counting on the oil seal failing before the bearings need to be repacked or the grease is simply an assembly measure. If the grease was necessary there would be a repack schedule like most other cars I have owned. The Montero called for a repack at 48,000 miles, for instance. ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Todd_Wilson@ccmail.columbia.com (Todd Wilson) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 10:57:24 -0700 Subject: Re[2]: Greased vs. oiled hubs OK, enough of all this. I have the RN catalog in front of me so here goes. The axle spindle Hub oil seal RTC3510 Inner Hub Bearing RTC3429 Hub Outer Hub Bearing RTC3426 Drive flange gasket 231505 Drive Flange That's a unit boys and girls. The spindle is a relatively sealed unit. The only thing that keeps the oil in the SPH is the Felt Washer (RTC3515), Flat washer (571922), Castle nut (3259) Part numbers vary after July 1980 for 88" and 109 series III tew ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marcus Tooze) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 13:04:35 -0500 Subject: Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs mea culpa > In reading over the manual I see it does mention greasing > the bearings on assembly but there is no mention of repacking the bearings. > Do they really mean put them togther with grease and forget them forever?? > Either they are counting on the oil seal failing before the bearings need > to be repacked or the grease is simply an assembly measure. If the grease > was necessary there would be a repack schedule like most other cars I have > owned. The Montero called for a repack at 48,000 miles, for instance. Straining my memory, I can't recall bearing repacking on old MGs and TR maintainance schedules. My '73 TVR schedule doesn't list bearing repacking (I don't think). Although it lists about 50 things which need greasing/oiling every 3000 miles. Maybe back then in the UK, they figured the cars wouldn't last past 50k anyway? M ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Rodrigo Cid Ferreira <rodrigo@bancosantos.com.br> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 16:01:35 -0300 Subject: Problems with BRAKES Have a Discovery V8 97 - Lots of problems with brakes, car does not brake well and ABS light goes on sometimes (and stays on - for no reason). When in a down hill ramp and going over a bump with foot on the brake pedal - car seems to engage the ABS and therefore loose at least 5 meters of breaking power. The brakes also are slow to engage. Need help. The car has been 5 times at the dealer here in Brazil (LandRover Brazil - IZZO) however the problem persists. If anyone could forward this email to any technician at Land Rover - I would greatly appreciate. Regards, Rodrigo Cid Ferreira ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 15:06:44 -0400 Subject: Bush Rangies Dear all, Just to let you know ECR didn't post anything about the Bush Rangie/ Dakars/ Rovers to the lro list. It was clipped from our web page and posted by another. I got a private email saying "don't advertise" but I didn't post anything. Thanks! :-) From: EAST COAST ROVER CO. *Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists* 21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864 207.594.8086 phone 207.594.8120 fax http://www.eastcoastrover.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Paul M. Pitcher" <pitcher@cahp.nbc.upenn.edu> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 15:20:21 -0700 Subject: Seeking advice on '91 GDE Hi Folks, This is my first time posting to this list, I'm not a member, so please reply directly. Anyway, there's a '91 Great Divide Edition FS near me here in southeast PA, and the wife is kind of interested in it. It fits the description written by Kevin Kelly at the off-road.com site, and the VIN is: SALHV1247MA446441 Does it have the 4.2 L? Can't tell if it's EFI or carb. Looks like it needs brake work and a new exhaust system. 80,000 miles. Seller is asking $15,500. Is this a good deal? For a one of 400, it seems a worthy investment at that price. What are the gotchas with these cars at this age? Mainly interested in knowing the lineage of the motor and the reputation of the AT. As you might guess from my .sig, a bit of major mechanical overhaul doesn't intimidate me, but the wife needs supreme functionality, not yard sculpture. Ever since doing a 1600 mile fishing saga to northern Ontario in a Series II 109" Diesel in 1982, I've had a latent urge to own a Rover. This one's WAY too plush for my taste, but I'd rather be working on it than the wife's current ride, a '91 Mazda MPV. Thanks in advance, Paul M. Pitcher '65 Dodge Coronet 2 dr. sedan '66 Dodge Dart wagon '67 Chrysler Newport 4 dr. '68 Dodge W200 '68 Dodge W100 '69 Dodge D200 ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 15:43:03 -0700 Subject: Re: Re[2]: Greased vs. oiled hubs Todd Wilson wrote: > The only thing that keeps the oil in the SPH is the Felt Washer > (RTC3515), Flat washer (571922), Castle nut (3259) Nope. The felt washer doesn't do that trick. It only keeps the oil from making its way into the cap and then out onto the 'outside' of the wheel if the cap isn't sealing properly. Con Seitl 1973 III 88 "Pig" ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 16:44:10 -0400 Subject: Conversions Adrian, for ALL your metric and any measurement conversions consult http://entisoft.earthlink.net/scripts/unitsCGI.exe Bill Leacock ( Limey in exile ) NY USA. 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 16:57:31 -0400 Subject: Gearbox oil seal Gerry the oil seal on the gearbox output shaft probably failed due to excessive radial clearance brought on by wear of the taper roller bearings, or poor maintenance adjustment in the past. Just replacing the seal without checking the radial play in the output shaft is a waste of time, the seal will leak immediately. There are a number of shims behind the output shaft housing which can be removed to reduce the radial clearance to an acceptable limit. Bill Leacock ( Limey in exile ) NY USA. 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 17:00:22 -0400 Subject: King Dick. John and Muddy >North of Watford, well that explains every thing!!!!!!! :-) Thats why I added it, I knew you would understand !! Bill Leacock ( Limey in exile ) NY USA. 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 17:05:47 -0400 Subject: OIled bearings Con wrote Your oil shouldn't pass from the diff to the wheel bearings if the axle case seal is in shape. If it allowed it to do so, it would eevntually drain the diff of it's oil, and also build up pressure to a degree, probably forcing it out the swivel ball seal and the hub seal onto your brakes. There is'nt an axle seal in the rear axle, therefore oil passes along the half shaft directly to the wheel bearings. In the front axle the seal keeps oil in the diff from entering the swivel housing, there is no seal between the swivel housing and the front wheel bearings, therefore if oil is present in the swivel housings it can pass into the front wheel bearings in the clearance between the quarter shaft and the stub axle bore. Please re read my original posting !!! Bill Leacock ( Limey in exile ) NY USA. 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 23:10:52 +0200 Subject: Re: Conversions Thanks bill, but it says "this server does not have a DNS entry" any ideas? Adrian Redmond CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 86 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 54 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk Visit our homepages! www.channel6.dk ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 17:16:37 -0400 Subject: ECR Yard sale (clearification) Dear all, Had a lot of respnce to this, so I have to say this before someone drives from 100's of miles away and doesn't find the part they needed. So here goes... Over the year ECR does a lot of work on Rovers, the parts that we sometimes remove are in nice shape, but have a small dent or something that won't pass on a restoration. That is the type of stuff we are selling. If someone went to a Turner engine, we'll sell their old 2.25. If we replaced a wing due to a dent, we'll sell the old one... OK?, like a scratch and dent sale type of thing. We aren't selling new stuff or really a ton of stuff either. The stuff that doesn't pass in a restoration might be just right for the off road Series Rover though, or the driver. I just wanted to say that before the people planning to come thought it might be like opening up Rovers North's inventory! I had inquiries about everything from new ARB bull bars to tropical tops. So excuse the "commerical" content, but I didn't want to mislead anyone. Thanks! From: EAST COAST ROVER CO. *Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists* 21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864 207.594.8086 phone 207.594.8120 fax http://www.eastcoastrover.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 17:16:57 -0400 Subject: gearbox noise Paul Typically the ser gearboxes are noisy in first and reverse due to the gears being straight cut, the remainder are helical, What you are describing sounds like you have probably suffered from the loss of a gear tooth on the layshaft first gear, a not uncommon problem. Bill Leacock ( Limey in exile ) NY USA. 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 17:21:21 -0400 Subject: Oil v grease Nate wrote :- Correct. However, the oil in the swivel housing should not be getting into the hub bearings. The hub bearings are greased (unless you have a very early type hub with the plug for oil filling). The two compartments are separated by various seals. Nate How many more times. There are NO seals between the front swivel housings and the front wheel bearing, the seal is between the front diff and the swivel housing, or between the hub and the stub axle., oil can freely pass allong the quarter shaft in either direction. Bill Leacock ( Limey in exile ) NY USA. 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 23:56:51 +0200 Subject: Land Rover virus warning Imagine if you will the following bulletin, which in the coming age of on-line motoring, will appear on your computer if you are the proud owner of a modern 4WD with computerised control of all bells and whistles - SOLIHULL SOFTWARE SUPPORT UNIT - SOFTWARE BULLETIN May 1998 Urgent software virus warning to owners of Land Rover Freelander above serial number B2633T4777100000. A batch of automotive coprocessors manufactured by Motorola, type number 84039Z have been found to be infected with a computer virus, due to a momentary lapse of computer security at the Lode Lane plant in December of last year. The virus, which is a version of the known BMW "dasautoskaputigungen" strain remains dormant until the expiry of the guarantee period, following which the following symptoms are typical. 1. Speedometer characteristics are changed from linear to logarithmic scale 2. EFI firing sequence chages from 1-3-2-4 to 4-3-2-3, with resulting damage of timing chain and valves 3. Pressing the cigar lighter releases the electronic bonnet latch, and flashes the cabin illumination. 4. Control commands to indicators and electric seat calibration become crossed, indicate left to raise seatback, indicate right to drop seatback to sleeping position. 5. Similarly, headlights now perform indicator function, control is now patched to clutch pedal. 6. Brake and clutch functions are swapped. 7. Opening the ashtray 9/16" will engage low ratio. 8. Windscreen wipers will only function if both passenger door windows are fully open. 9. Accelerator pedal function becomes reversed - depress to slow down, release to speed up. Motor revoloutions per minute is indicated on Fuel guage. 10. For models fitted with FM radio, motor timing can be tuned using the tuning control, 92.8 Mhz is TDC, tuning to 24hour Techno 102.5 FM achieves 13° before TDC. Unfortunatly, most Freelanders are equipped with Blaupunkt radios which utilise ADB automatic tuning. Expect timing variations outside city limits. 11. Adjusting the electric head-rest will alter the automatic focussing of the side mirrors. 12. Models fitted with electric winches will only pay out 1.5 metres of wire. 13. The computer clock will ensure that gearshift positioning is mirrored on alternate weekdays. After Jan 1st 2000, the configuration will default to 5 reverse gears and 1 forward gear. 14. Exhaust aided turbocharging will redirect exhaust fumes via the interior airconditioning (we recommend turning the wipers on, thus opening the windows) 15. The vehicles electronic VIN number will be deleted thus rendering future import to NADA areas legislativly impossible. the above faults are registered on the present version of the vehicle, which according to the small print on your purchase agreement is a Beta version for testing in the Lithuanian marked only, we will rectify these faults in future versions of the hardware. A simple workaround in the meantime is a 1976 SIII diesel. Brave new world? Was this a hoax, or will history prove us wrong? Duh.... will rectify these in the next upgrade -- Adrian Redmond CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 86 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 54 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk Visit our homepages! www.channel6.dk ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 18:01:03 -0400 Subject: Reservoir blues Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca> wrote: >Does anyone have a trick for separating the resovoir of the dual master >from the base. I'm hung up again on trying to get that little circlip out >without damaging the plastic bowl. Can't be done. The circlip fits around the nipple into the master cylinder and it's a *one way trip*. :-( There's no way to remove the reservoir other than destructively. *----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----* | | | A. P. ("Sandy") Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. | | Association of North American Rover Clubs | | 1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 | *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----* ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 18:01:06 -0400 Subject: Lumiweld K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com> wrote: >I've tried order the stuff but the phone number they gave just rings and >rings with no answer..Do you have any ide what state the company is located >in? No idea. Bought mine from a display at a gun show. They might have a web site, but I've seen similar stuff at well-stocked hardware stores. i'm sure Northern Hydraulics carries it in their catalogue. Cheers *----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----* | | | A. P. ("Sandy") Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. | | Association of North American Rover Clubs | | 1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 | *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----* ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 17:16:30 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Land Rover virus warning > 7. > Opening the ashtray 9/16" will engage low ratio. > Brave new world? Was this a hoax, or will history prove us wrong? Obviously a hoax. Freelanders haven't a low range. ------------------------------[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 00:17:06 +0200 Subject: Re: Land Rover virus warning You obviously have seen the version without the virus! :-) David Scheidt wrote: > > 7. > > Opening the ashtray 9/16" will engage low ratio. > > Brave new world? Was this a hoax, or will history prove us wrong? > Obviously a hoax. Freelanders haven't a low range. -- Adrian Redmond CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 86 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 54 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk Visit our homepages! www.channel6.dk ------------------------------[ <- Message 45 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
[digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BD67C2.AED8C4C0" ] From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 16:30:42 -0500 Subject: RE: Lumiweld What are you people planing to "overlap and weld" with this stuff? [digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: application/ms-tnef ] ------------------------------[ <- Message 46 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 16:50:09 -0700 Subject: Red Engine Blocks? I think that I might have asked this before but can't remember the answers... My 2&1/4 petrol engine block is painted red. Looks almost poppy red. The serial number indicates that the engine was manufactured in 1959. Does anybody else have a red engine? Just wondering if this is the factory colour or if it was resprayed during a re-build. There is no sign of overspray anywhere so it looks like it was painted when it was at least partially stripped. Paul Quin 1961 Series II 88 under construction http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/ Victoria, BC Canada. ------------------------------[ <- Message 47 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com> Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 20:33:28 -0600 Subject: Re: Reservoir blues Sandy When I did that job I had a tossed out dental tool. The kind the bastards scrape along your tooth!. Go to your dentist and tell him he owes ya' one. Then you can slide the "hook" in and lever the clip out....At least it worked when I did it a few years ago! John ------------------------------[ <- Message 48 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 21:34:06 EDT Subject: Re: Oil v grease In a message dated 4/14/98 5:25:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Limey Bill states: << How many more times. There are NO seals between the front swivel housings and the front wheel bearing, the seal is between the front diff and the swivel housing, or between the hub and the stub axle., oil can freely pass allong the quarter shaft in either direction. >> I now refer to the Lindsay Porter Book: Please turn to page 229: Note that the swivel housing oil cannot pass the stub axle UNLESS the joint washer behind the stub axle has deteriorated. In the case that it has, the oil will leak out behind the backing plate and therefore CANNOT GET INTO THE WHEEL BEARINGS. Additionally, the seal at the end of the axle casing is supposed to separate the oil of the axle casing and the swivel housing. On the other side of the stub axle is the distance piece which in the best case scenerio seals with the hub "oil" (read oil or grease) seal and the cause of greasy or oily brake shoes. At the end of the stub axle a wimpy felt and rubber seal is designed to keep oil in the the stub axle and out of the hub. This oil would have arisen from the swivel housing, assuming the seal at the end of the axle casing is intact. Therefore, while there is technically no seal directly between the swivel housing and the hub, by design, there is no egress of oil into the hub unless a seal fails. The halfshaft is bathed in oil of the diff and axle casing and separately bathed in oil from the swivel housing. Clear as mud? Nate ------------------------------[ <- Message 49 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 20:56:14 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Red Engine Blocks? On Tue, 14 Apr 1998, Paul Quin wrote: > My 2&1/4 petrol engine block is painted red. Looks almost poppy red. > The serial number indicates that the engine was manufactured in 1959. > Does anybody else have a red engine? Just wondering if this is the > factory colour or if it was resprayed during a re-build. There is no > sign of overspray anywhere so it looks like it was painted when it was > at least partially stripped. My block isn't red, at least on the outside. However, I had the sump off at some point, and the bottom inside was. I thought that rather odd. David > Paul Quin > 1961 Series II 88 under construction > http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/ > Victoria, BC Canada. > sign of overspray anywhere so it looks like it was painted when it was > at least partially stripped. ------------------------------[ <- Message 50 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za> Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 04:21:44 +0200 Subject: Re: Bush Rangies I'm not going to get into the whole advertising issue at all! I found the posting and the link very interesting. The Bush Rangie looks very similar to a vehicle called the Rotrax which is locally (SA) built on a space frame with graphite composite body and a choice of 2X4 or 4X4 drivetrains - not sure about the mill. I know that several have been supplied to one of the Special Forces brigades (they chuck them out the back of a C-160 and use them as mobile weapons platforms) and that they're also sold to one of the Gulf states for their Defence Force. Anyway, nice site Mike! Regards Paul Oxley http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za http://Adventures.co.za http://AfricanAdrenalin.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 51 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 22:53:21 -0400 Subject: Re: Spot Welding Aluminium BRIAN WILLOUGHBY wrote: > I just purchased a new rear quarter panel to replace a severely > damaged > (i.e. unrepairable and ugly) one and would greatly appreciate any > advice > fellow listers would like to share about spot welding aluminium body > panels > to one another. I don't have any personal experience, but have watched the fellows in the shop at work building experimental vehicles. On steel panels they use frequently a Miller Falls spot welder, but on aluminum they generally use "plug" welding. Drill a hole through one panel the size of the desired weld, clamp the two panel together, then fill in the hole with weld material. A really good job looks like a spot weld. Light clean up with a Dremel tool and small stone might be needed. This is also the prefered technique for reassembling panels that were seperated by drilling out the spot welds. A spot weld drill bit such as sold by Eastwood (sort of a miniature hole saw) is their prefered tool. They also use "Cleco" fasteners for holding the panels in place. These are temporary fastenters which fit through a 1/8" hole and hold panels in place. They are commonly used for light aircraft work. The general rule of thumb is that spot welding aluminum takes 3 times the current of spot welding steel. This is due to the greater electrical conductivity of al (heat generated is I^2*R). I've suggested trying the Miller Falls spot welder on aluminum (contrary to the instructions) to the fellows in the shop, but they haven't been interested. Considering their experience I'm not going to argue. BTW, they built extra arms for the spot welder from 1/2" diameter bronze rod to extend the reach. ------------------------------[ <- Message 52 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 22:58:23 -0400 Subject: Re: What's in an original LR tool kit? David Scheidt provided the LR tool kit list and wrote: > Somehow I doubt that any of these numbers are still available. A few are still available from LR. Others are available as New Old Stock. A bunch of pumps surfaced a few years ago. Triple-C has the wooden part of the screw jack handles. Others which were used in other British car tool kits have been reproduced. The Rover logo tire gauge is probably the hardest to find. I almost lost mine when it fell into the lawn un-noticed from the tool kit of the then-newly acqured LR. Fortunately I noticed it a few minutes later. Regards, David Cockey ------------------------------[ <- Message 53 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 23:10:00 -0400 Subject: Re: Red Engine Blocks? Paul Quin wrote: > My 2&1/4 petrol engine block is painted red. Looks almost poppy red. > The serial number indicates that the engine was manufactured in 1959. > Does anybody else have a red engine? One of our '60 SII engines is the a slightly greenish grey, which I am certain is the original color. Since your engine is not original to the LR it could have been repainted between LRs. Regards, David Cockey ------------------------------[ <- Message 54 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "John McMaster" <john@chiaroscuro.co.uk> Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 09:18:17 +0100 Subject: RE: HTML help? Hi, just add the colour you want in hex RGB (choose your colour in RGB 0-255, then convert to hex in scientific calculator). <a href="home.htm"><font color="#FFFFFF">your link here</font> this gives a white link. cheers john ______________________ John McMaster john@chiaroscuro.co.uk green/purple 110/Massey Ferguson ------------------------------[ <- Message 55 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com> Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 22:22:59 +1000 Subject: 530 Land Rovers at Easter Sorry for the cross-post but I thought you'd like to know that at the 50th Anniversary LR Celebrations in Cooma, Australia, there were 530 LR of various types all crowded into one paddock. There were more at Cooma but some people didn't take them to the paddock. It was quite a sight. I don't know the breakdown of numbers by model but there were 83 Discos and about 77 Rangies (oh, and 3-4 Freelanders). I took 11 rolls of film which I'll take to San Francisco. Some pix will end up on my web site real soon now. By heck there were some lovely cars there. I was very tempted to buy a 1959 Series 1 shorty with ahrd top and tropical roof for $1700. I rang the bloke who had it advertised but he wasn't home. Ron ------------------------------[ <- Message 56 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com> Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 19:18:43 +1000 Subject: CB Radio, Antenna placement >>While we're at it, doe s anybody *ever* find a use for the +/- 12 >>volt power ports on the dash of a series 3? >Sure!! Lucas made a little device (part number 560617) that plugs >into the sockets, What is the spacing of the sockets? Is it the standard 1" (25.4mm)? If so, almost any banana plug adaptor from Hewlett Packard or other electronics supplier will fit. I know that Belling-Lee banana plugs fit. I tried them years ago on a work LR. Ron ------------------------------[ <- Message 57 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com> Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 19:17:16 +1000 Subject: RR wheels on a series III >I have a question >can you fit RR wheels on a series III? >or the hub just wont fit on the little center hole? If the SIII is fitted with free-wheel hubs, you won't without cutting the centres out. I saw a SIII last weekend with Rangie steel rims fitted. They looked terrible with the roughly cut holes. I am not sure if they'll fit cars without free-wheel hubs. However, steel Discovery wheels will bolt straight on. I tried this on an Australian military trailer axle that I have (and may sell). Ron ------------------------------[ <- Message 58 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 22:12:27 +1000 Subject: Prelude Seats fit LR I was at the LR 50th Anniversary and I noticed a nice '59 Series II with even nicer seats. I asked the owner what they were from and he said a Honda Prelude but couldn't remember which year. I photographed them and will have the pix developed tomorrow. If you want a copy of the pix emailed, let me know. Ron ------------------------------[ <- Message 59 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com> Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 22:55:12 +1000 Subject: 110 kph in a Series 1 I was tootling down to Cooma for the LR 50th Anniversary celebrations when I was passed by a Series I hardtop pickup. But I was doing 110kph (68mph) and the Series 1 was diesel. I checked it out later and saw it had 6-stud wheels. A little more surreptitious checking and I saw it had a 2.2 litre turbo diesel, gearbox and transfer case from a T*y*ta Hilux Ron ------------------------------[ <- Message 60 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Mick Forster <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk> Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 09:44:38 +0100 Subject: Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs The relevant section in the Series III Workshop Manual (Land Rover not Haynes) is operation 51.10.28 where paragraph 15 for refitting the hub bearings states "Pack the hub with fresh grease". Now, paragraph 11 and paragraph 17 refer to the oil seal which fits in the back of the hub and runs on the stub axle. This seal is the one that stops oil (not grease but oil!) from getting onto the back plate and soaking the brake shoes. Next to operation 51.10.01 is a cross section diagram through a hub (well, two actually...) this refers to the removal of half shafts. The last time I replaced a broken half-shaft after removing the drive-flange I got oil all over the wheel and tyre. Looking at the diagram oil flows around the half shaft to fill the cavity behind the drive flange, if there is oil in this cavity then there is oil on the bearings. Therefore whether the bearings are greased or not they are going to get oiled. Incidentally there is no mention of greasing the wheel bearings in the maintenance summary chart which has 75 items to be checked at least every twelve months (oh yes sure I do .... ), luibricating the prop-shaft gets a mention even using an oscilloscope to check coil performance, but no wheel bearings. Mick Forster ------------------------------[ <- Message 61 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: torque@pacific.net.sg (Lawrence Lee) Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 17:43:16 +0800 Subject: Re: RR wheels on a series III Since we're on the topic of wheels, does anybody know what offset is necessary for 8Jx16inch rims to be fitted to a Ser III 109 with 285/85/16 tyres and yet be able to turn decently? Any comments appreciated Lawrence Lee, '81 Ser III 109 2.6l "Kerbau" (kerbau is the Malay name for water buffalo, one that prefers to STAY in the mud) ------------------------------[ <- Message 62 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: torque@pacific.net.sg (Lawrence Lee) Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 17:48:28 +0800 Subject: speedo acting up Here's an interesting symptom: At speeds below 80km/h, speedo reads correctly. Above 100km/h, speedo needle goes backward when accelerating, but bounces to correct-ish reading when throttle is lifted! Speedo and speedo cable has less than 30,000km on clock. Tempted to leave it alone and explain to the cop when I get pulled over for speeding "but my speedo read 80km/h sir" ;-) cheers Lawrence Lee, '81 Ser III 109 2.6l "Kerbau" (kerbau is the Malay name for water buffalo, one that prefers to STAY in the mud) ------------------------------[ <- Message 63 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: torque@pacific.net.sg (Lawrence Lee) Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 17:53:45 +0800 Subject: viscous coupled fan I posted this before but got no response, so I'm trying again, please bear with me. 1) Are viscuous fans temperature rated? I understand that the coil of spring at the front is the temperature sensor. 2) How tight is "tight enough" for a viscous fan? I heard that the fan should be free to turn when cold, but not so free as to turn a full rotation with a smart flick of the blades. Any comments appreciated Lawrence Lee, '81 Ser III 109 2.6l "Kerbau" (kerbau is the Malay name for water buffalo, one that prefers to STAY in the mud) ------------------------------[ <- Message 64 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Dr R.D.Thomson" <rthomson@mech.gla.ac.uk> Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 10:04:15 +0100 Subject: Re: S3 power sockets At 07:18 PM 4/15/98 +1000, you wrote: >>>While we're at it, doe s anybody *ever* find a use for the +/- 12 >>>volt power ports on the dash of a series 3? >>Sure!! Lucas made a little device (part number 560617) that plugs >>into the sockets, >What is the spacing of the sockets? Is it the standard 1" (25.4mm)? If so, >almost any banana plug adaptor from Hewlett Packard or other electronics >supplier will fit. [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)] >I know that Belling-Lee banana plugs fit. I tried them years ago on a work >LR. I tried a number of banana plugs but none of them fitted so I just replaced the outlets with a more common size. However these days almost every accessory comes with a cigarette lighter plug (for how much longer we ask?) so I might just attach a cigarette lighter socket to the outlets. Regards Ron Thomson http://www.mech.gla.ac.uk/~rthomson/guslrc.htm ------------------------------[ <- Message 65 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980415 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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