Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 08:41:05 -0300
Subject: Re: King Dick was Re: LR tool Kit

Jeremy Bartlett wrote:
> > That funny looking adjustable wrench is known as a" King Dick".
> I'm not sure about that.  King Dick is a brand.  I've got a set of
> theirsockets.  This could however, be similiar to the "Mole" wrench vs.
> Vise Grips common usage.  I believe my wrench is stamped King Dick.

You are right King Dick is a brand name just like Vise Grip and as so
often happens this became the generic name for that type of adjustable
wrench even though the company makes other products. It may even be that 
this wrench was their first product that started a whole line.
    John and Muddy

------------------------------

From: Axel Pawlik <axelpawlik@tinet.ie>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 12:45:08 +0100
Subject: Greased vs. oiled hubs

Hi everybody, hope you all found all eggs!

Having taken apart a wheel hub yesterday (the brakes
have been lubricated again...), I wondered...

My hubs are oiled. The workshop manual (SIIa) refers
to grease packed hubs, there is no reference (I found)
on refilling the hubs with oil. Obviously they want to
convert me to grease filled. What are your experiences 
with this, pros and cons?

Oh, they are fitted with AVM freewheeling hubs, too.

Next question: The locking washer obviously was used
several times before, it looked pretty crooked. Apart
from the looks, what type of tool do you use to bend
that thing back and forth? Obviously a screwdriver
is less than optimal for the task.

The bearing distance piece apparently is worn, so it 
has to come off, and new one on. The Haynes manual says
I need a drift to properly bang it home. What did you
do and use?

thanks for the advice, Axel

------------------------------

From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 08:56:23 -0300
Subject: Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs

Axel Pawlik wrote:
> Hi everybody, hope you all found all eggs!
> Having taken apart a wheel hub yesterday (the brakes
> have been lubricated again...), I wondered...
> My hubs are oiled. The workshop manual (SIIa) refers
> to grease packed hubs, there is no reference (I found)
> on refilling the hubs with oil. Obviously they want to

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 26 lines)]
> do and use?
> thanks for the advice, Axel
 After years of being an oil lover I changed to grease and the reason
was that it seems that the grease is less likely to leak onto the
brakes.
The drift they refer to is a piece of brass that is softer than the
sleeve so that when you tap on it it won't damage the new sleeve.
I prefer to use a piece of pipe the is the right size to go over the
axle stub and long enough to extend over the end so I can tap that with
the hammer and  push the sleeve nice and straight. I always put on a new
sleeve when I put in a new seal, they don't cost much and it's an easy
job.
    John and Muddy

------------------------------

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 07:23:14 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs

On Sun, 12 Apr 1998, Axel Pawlik wrote:

> Having taken apart a wheel hub yesterday (the brakes
> have been lubricated again...), I wondered...

> Having taken apart a wheel hub yesterday (the brakes
 My hubs are oiled. The workshop manual (SIIa) refers
 to grease packed hubs, there is no reference (I found)
 on refilling the hubs with oil. Obviously they want to
 convert me to grease filled. What are your experiences 
> with this, pros and cons?

I just did this yesterday.  What I did was take everything apart, clean
all of the old oil off everything, pack the bearings with grease, put it
back together.  Put some grease in the space between the bearings, and
inspect them for scratches or bluing (caused by overheating).  The theory
with grease is that it leaks less.  My workshop manual does have
instructions for refilling with oil, but I don't know how you would get it
in with freewheeling hubs.
 
> Next question: The locking washer obviously was used
 several times before, it looked pretty crooked. Apart
 from the looks, what type of tool do you use to bend
 that thing back and forth? Obviously a screwdriver
> is less than optimal for the task.

> The bearing distance piece apparently is worn, so it 
> has to come off, and new one on. The Haynes manual says
> I need a drift to properly bang it home. What did you
> do and use?

I used the old distance piece, filing any burrs off the inside edge, and
my hubnut socket.  A properly sized piece of pipe would probably work as
well.

David/mr sinclair, stops straight now

------------------------------

From: Hank Rutherford <ruthrfrd@borg.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 08:31:43 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Motor vs Engine

Ya'll,
   I believe the term "motor" to describe one's vehicle is short for
"motorcar". Correct pronunciation varies depending on regional dialect but
colonists can pretend by saying "moh-ahh". "My car" would be pronounced "Me
moh-ahh".

                                                  H. Rutherford

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 09:27:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs

In a message dated 98-04-12 08:27:20 EDT, you write:

<< I used the old distance piece, filing any burrs off the inside edge, and
 my hubnut socket.  A properly sized piece of pipe would probably work as
 well. >>

This is how I do it too.  Works  very well.  Haven't had to replace a hub seal
a second time since using this method.

Nate

------------------------------

From: lndrvr@ldd.net (BRIAN WILLOUGHBY)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 10:30:34 -0500
Subject: Spot Welding Aluminium

Hello to everyone!

I just purchased a new rear quarter panel to replace a severely damaged
(i.e. unrepairable and ugly) one and would greatly appreciate any advice
fellow listers would like to share about spot welding aluminium body panels
to one another.

Some things I need to know:

-proper operating temperature of the spot welder
-is any special preparation necessary?
-is it better just to have the panels conventionally welded and "fake" the
spot welds (by stamping a round, spot weld-like depression into the metal)?

Your thoughts and comments are greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Brian

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 98 08:57:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs

;>My hubs are oiled. The workshop manual (SIIa) refers
;>to grease packed hubs, there is no reference (I found)
;>on refilling the hubs with oil. Obviously they want to
;>convert me to grease filled. What are your experiences 
;>with this, pros and cons?

As of Last month I can say I have used grease in The Green Rover's front 
hubs for 20 years now and it has worked well the whole time.  Everything 
has held up fine.  I used one set of bearings for 17 years with no 
problems and only replaced them because I was in the throws of 
shipfitter's disease renewing everything up front.  After 17 years of 
use, there was nothing wrong with them.  I just wanted to have everything 
in and around the front swivels, brakes and suspension to be new so I 
wouldn't have to wory about anything for the next 20 or so years.  

I snapped a front stub axle off at the base of the race in 1989 and drove 
the 600ish miles home to do the repair.  The greased front bearings held 
up well under that kind of treatment.  It sure made me glad that there 
was a big 'U' joint knukle behind the stub axle flange plate.  It was the 
only thing that kept my front wheel on the car.

Personally, I think oil would be a whole lot less forgiving of wear on 
the hub seal.

;>Next question: The locking washer obviously was used
;>several times before, it looked pretty crooked. Apart
;>from the looks, what type of tool do you use to bend
;>that thing back and forth? Obviously a screwdriver
;>is less than optimal for the task.

Gosh. I'm afraid that I use a screwdriver and a mallet.  I confess that I 
often use screwdrivers to pound and pry.  This in spite the fact that 
when I was a little girl my grandfather once spanked me for using one of 
his screwdrivers to open a can of paint instead of a special can lid 
prying tool.  I since then I have always felt guilty when I pry with a 
screwdriver, but they are such handy little tools.

Those locking washers, the felt axle seals and flat head screws that hold 
the brake drums on are very cheap.  I always have a spare set of new ones 
sitting around.  You rely on the washer to keep your front bearings in 
place. Why not use new ones when they cost almost nothing?

;>The bearing distance piece apparently is worn, so it 
;>has to come off, and new one on. The Haynes manual says
;>I need a drift to properly bang it home. What did you
;>do and use?

Since I'm handy in the kitchen, I use a freezer and an oven.

First I clean the stub axle and race very carefully.  I try to get every 
trace of grease off the race.

The stub axle goes in the freezer overnight.  The race goes into into the 
oven at 400 degrees for about a half hour.  If you left ANY grease on the 
race, you will know it.

I set the stub axle on a surface with the axle pointing straight up. 
Using a hot pad, I quickly drop the race down the stub axle.  It slides 
right into place if you do it fast enough.  I don't know why men always 
feel they need to bang on things ;^)  A little knowledge of physics can 
go a long way.

;>thanks for the advice, Axel

Good luck with your project and take care ;*)

TeriAnn Wakeman                       The Green Rover, rebuilt and
Santa Cruz, California                and maintained using parts from
twakeman@cruzers.com                  British Pacific 800-554-4133
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman      

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 12:06:52 EDT
Subject: Best way to store a rebuilt engine

Hi all,

Just brought a rebuilt 2.25 petrol engine home from the machine shop.  I had
the head redone and the block rebuilt.  The tappets are not in the block but
the timing components and camshaft are setup.  What is the best way to store
this for a few months until I get it put in?  

1.  Should I fill it with motor oil?
2.  Should I refit the head now?  (valve train is not on the head)
3.  How often should I turn the crank to keep the rings clear?

Thanks

Nate

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 12:13:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs

In a message dated 98-04-12 12:01:42 EDT, Teriann writes:

<< Gosh. I'm afraid that I use a screwdriver and a mallet.  I confess that I 
 often use screwdrivers to pound and pry.  This in spite the fact that 
 when I was a little girl my grandfather once spanked me for using one of 
 his screwdrivers to open a can of paint instead of a special can lid 
 prying tool.  I since then I have always felt guilty when I pry with a 
 screwdriver, but they are such handy little tools.>>

Only feel guilty if it's not a Sears Craftsman.  They know me from a mile away
by now.
 
Subsequently you answer why you shouldn't feel guilty:

<< Why not use new ones when they cost nothing?>>

Exactly the point behind using Craftsman

Nate
(User of the "Craftsman Free New Tool for Broken Old One" service)

------------------------------

From: trowe@cdr.wisc.edu
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 12:16:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Aluminium welding

From: Tom Rowe@CDR on 04-12-98 12:16 PM

cc:
Subject:  Re: Aluminium welding

>>...a product called Alumaloy.  It was a product to weld aluminum
>>together using only a propane torch.
snip

Just a bit of clarification here. Alumaloy does *not* weld aluminum. I
haven't used it, but it sounds like a brazing or bonding method for
aluminum. Welding, by definition, requires that the join areas of the two
pieces of base metal are molten. The description of the alumaloy process
does not fit that definition.
Perhaps it's plenty good for the purposes it's used for, but don't be
fooled into thinking the parts are welded together. In a proper weld the
joint is stronger than the base metal. You will seldom if ever see a good
weld break.
Yeah, I know, picky picky picky.

Tom Rowe
Network Systems Administrator
WI Center for Dairy Research
Madison, WI
608-265-6194 Fax: 608-262-1578
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu

Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: trowe@cdr.wisc.edu
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 12:25:07 -0500
Subject: Re; Spot Welding Aluminum

From: Tom Rowe@CDR on 04-12-98 12:25 PM

cc:
Subject:  Re; Spot Welding Aluminum

>I just purchased a new rear quarter panel to replace a severely damaged
(i.e. unrepairable and ugly) one and would greatly appreciate any advice
fellow listers would like to share about spot welding aluminium body panels
to one another.

Some things I need to know:

-proper operating temperature of the spot welder
-is any special preparation necessary?
-is it better just to have the panels conventionally welded and "fake" the
spot welds (by stamping a round, spot weld-like depression into the metal)?

>Your thoughts and comments are greatly appreciated!

Proper setting for the welder depends on the make and condition of the
welder. You'll need to experiment. Use the old panel you remove.

The metal should be bare, and *just before* welding you should wire brush
the areas to be welded with a stainless steel wire brush (that's never been
used on carbon steel) to remove any oxides that have formed.

I think you'd be best off with the spot welds. Less distortion, easier to
remove if you ever need to again with the least damase to the other body
part.
Have fun.

Tom Rowe
Network Systems Administrator
WI Center for Dairy Research
Madison, WI
608-265-6194 Fax: 608-262-1578
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu

Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 13:43:07 -0300
Subject: Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
> ;>My hubs are oiled. The workshop manual (SIIa) refers
> ;>to grease packed hubs, there is no reference (I found)
> ;>on refilling the hubs with oil. Obviously they want to
> ;>convert me to grease filled. What are your experiences
> ;>with this, pros and cons?
> As of Last month I can say I have used grease in The Green Rover's front
> hubs for 20 years now and it has worked well the whole time.  Everything
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 49 lines)]
> ;>do and use?
> Since I'm handy in the kitchen, I use a freezer and an oven.
  
so a woman's place really is in the kitchen even when she's working on
her Land Rover !!!!!

  John and Muddy

 First I clean the stub axle and race very carefully.  I try to get
every
> trace of grease off the race.
> The stub axle goes in the freezer overnight.  The race goes into into the
> oven at 400 degrees for about a half hour.  If you left ANY grease on the
> race, you will know it.
> I set the stub axle on a surface with the axle pointing straight up.
> Using a hot pad, I quickly drop the race down the stub axle.  It slides
> right into place if you do it fast enough.  I don't know why men always
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 21 lines)]
> twakeman@cruzers.com                  British Pacific 800-554-4133
> http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman

------------------------------

From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 13:49:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
>  It sure made me glad that there
> was a big 'U' joint knukle behind the stub axle flange plate.  It was the
> only thing that kept my front wheel on the car..
  Huh? Want to run that past again?
>.
.>  I don't know why men always
> feel they need to bang on things ;^) .
 It's our nature, we need to bang on things ;-)

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: "Boqvist,Holgerson" <ostkant@algonet.se>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 19:47:42 +0100
Subject: MB300D convertion question

On my way to chose diesel or petrol for my rebuilding project IIA SWB, I
took my 109 diesels on the road for a power test this other day. My first
question is, shall I consider the 4th gear as a overdrive gear to use down
hill. (Not a yoke) I have driving experience on my petrol 88 and I know
it's not like my Chevy Blazer, but?
K. John Wood recommend an MB 300D engine conversion. I heard about a
conversion kit. Does anybody have experience on that engine in a series 88
or this conversion kit?

Anders Boqvist

------------------------------

From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 08:55:36 -1000
Subject: Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs

Bearings are designed to be oil lubricated.  No way to keep grease around
the bearing so doubt that it would work for the long term without
constantly repacking.  Thats the beauty of the oil lube in that they don't
need to packed.  Of course the seals keeping the oil in can be another
problem.

I use a chisel to get the distant pieces off.  Have found that it is not
easy.  Usually end up with multiple creases in the distant piece and scabs
on the fingers.  Have found that getting the piece spinning with the blows
on the chisel will eventually back off the piece.  Some people claim that
the distant piece will split with a couple of blows and come off easy.
I've done 6 now and none came off without a lot beating on the chisel.  

I use a piece of pvc pipe 1 1/2 or 2" cut off in a chop saw so that it is
square to put the distance piece back on.  I've always used a non hardening
gasket compound.  Just seemed prudent though it is claimed they seal ok
without.

Ditch the freewheeling hubs.  They don't do anything unless placed on the
rear wheels as an antitheft device.  They may be harmful to the bearings
and the front driveshaft, also.

Aloha Peter

>My hubs are oiled. The workshop manual (SIIa) refers
>to grease packed hubs, there is no reference (I found)
>on refilling the hubs with oil. Obviously they want to
>convert me to grease filled. What are your experiences 
>with this, pros and cons?
>Oh, they are fitted with AVM freewheeling hubs, too.
>Next question: The locking washer obviously was used
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 23 lines)]
>do and use?
>thanks for the advice, Axel

------------------------------

From: hstin@cts.com (The Brothers Stinson)
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 12:17:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: SIII Transmission

Hello all,
        I am looking into a transmission rebuild on a Series III.  Can
anyone suggest a reputable shop in the San Diego, LA area?  I am also
looking into the cost effectiveness of purchasing a rebuilt unit from Rovers
North or Atlantic British.  I'd appreciate any advice or experiences anyone
has had?  Thanks....

                                                        Henry Stinson
                                                        '73 SWB 88   

------------------------------

From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 09:10:47 -1000
Subject: Re: Aluminium welding

True for steel and most other metals but not for aluminum.  According to
marine welders, aluminum welds are only about 70% the strength.  Don't know
why but speculate it has something to do with heat changing the alloy.  70%
is still pretty strong and undoubtedly a lot stronger than the Aluma Weld.
I would only use Aluma Weld to fill pukas(holes), never wear structuraly
integrity was required.
Aloha Peter

> In a proper weld the joint is stronger than the base metal. You will
seldom if ever see a good weld break.
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.
> In a proper weld the joint is stronger than the base metal. You will

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 15:25:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs

In a message dated 98-04-12 15:08:10 EDT, you write:

<< I use a chisel to get the distant pieces off.  Have found that it is not
 easy.  Usually end up with multiple creases in the distant piece and scabs
 on the fingers.  Have found that getting the piece spinning with the blows
 on the chisel will eventually back off the piece.   >>

Hi Peter,

After you can spin the distance piece, just twist it off with channel locks or
vice grips.   Much easier than using the chisel to spin it off.

Nate

------------------------------

From: William Dan Terry <wterry@netpubsintl.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 13:57:51 -0600
Subject: FOR SALE: More Parts

Fort Collins, CO, USA

Series brake adjuster kit, replacements for cams adjusters. Have three,
will sell individually or as set, new. $10 each or $27 for the three.

Series front vent knob, uses little screw to stay on, (not sure which
versions used what style, mine was press on L shaped hole), new, $1

IIA press in wheel studs w/ 15/16 flat-side nuts, new, 2, $15

IIA petrol cap and Lucas 7mm Premium wires, new, $18

IIA upper right front door hinge, used w/ new bolt, spring, bronze bush,
locker and nut, $15

RN Transfer case vent system to keep Fairly OD from filling with oil,
new, $13.

2.25 part gasket set, none of the large gaskets, but probably all and
more (multiples) of the small ones, $25

Peace, William

_______W__i__l__l__i__a__m_____D__a__n_____T__e__r__r__y_______
  How do we acquire wisdom along with all these shiny things?
  (David Brin)

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 98 13:22:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs

;>TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
;>>  It sure made me glad that there
;>> was a big 'U' joint knukle behind the stub axle flange plate.  It was 
the
;>> only thing that kept my front wheel on the car..
;>  Huh? Want to run that past again?

OK

It helps to look at an exploded drawing of the front hub area.
You have the front hub.  On the hub are the studs that hold the wheel and 
brake drum.  OK? So the wheel is held to the car via the front hub.

The front hub is attached to the front stub axle with the two wheel 
bearings.

The front axle is only secured by the drive flange, which is secured to 
the front hub.

The stub axle is secured to the swivel housing at the flange.

Now, suppose the stub axle snapped at the base of the flange.  This puts 
the front wheel bearings attaching the front hub, attaching the front 
tyre and the front axle on the broken off part  =8*0

So what kept the front wheel from falling off??

The front axles have a 'U' joint just inboard of the stub axle so you can 
turn the steering.
The knuckles for the"U" joint are larger than the hole in the stub axle 
allowing the axle to pass through.  The outer front axle,held to the 
inside of the stub axle flange and to the drive flange was the only thing 
keeping the tyre in place.

Don't try to drive a LR with a snapped stub axle in four wheel drive boys 
and girls.  It makes a heck of a mess.  But other than real skanky 
steering it's not too bad in two wheel drive.

TeriAnn Wakeman                       The Green Rover, rebuilt and
Santa Cruz, California                and maintained using parts from
twakeman@cruzers.com                  British Pacific 800-554-4133
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman      

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 98 13:21:55 -0700
Subject: Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs

;>TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
;>> ;>My hubs are oiled. The workshop manual (SIIa) refers
;>> ;>to grease packed hubs, there is no reference (I found)
;>	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 49 lines)]
;>> ;>do and use?
;>> Since I'm handy in the kitchen, I use a freezer and an oven.
;>
;>so a woman's place really is in the kitchen even when she's working on
;>her Land Rover !!!!!
;>
;>  John and Muddy

That isn't so!  Why I once rebuilt a Land Rover transmission in the 
dining room!

it's amazing what you can get away with while working on cars if you are 
the woman of the house ;*)

I just have to learn to put up with me and agree to clean up after me.

TeriAnn Wakeman              I subscribe to several high volume mail
Santa Cruz, California       Lists and do not read every posting. 
twakeman@cruzers.com         If you send me direct mail, please start
www.cruzers.com/~twakeman    subject with TW-  so I will know to read it.

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

From: Matt Abercrombie <maa0818@ritvax.isc.rit.edu>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 16:26:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: oil pressure stuff

Does anyone know a way to check oil pressure senders?  I tried to check the
resistance, but it didn't seem to vary with revs.  I also checked the gauge
by grounding one terminal and giving the other 12 Volts.  The needle rose,
but very slowly, and it fell even slower.  Is this gauge any good?  I am
hoping that either the sender or the gauge is broken.  If this is not the
case, I guess I don't have any oil pressure.  Also, does anyone know a way
to check the idiot light?
Thanks.

Matt Abercrombie
'69 88"
Belfast, Maine USA

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 98 13:58:42 -0700
Subject: Re: oil pressure stuff

>Does anyone know a way to check oil pressure senders?  I tried to check the
>resistance, but it didn't seem to vary with revs.  

The resisitance of the sender does not vary with RPM, it varies with oil 
pressure.  You should notice the biggest difference between the engine 
being off and the engine being on.  Unfortunatly the only way I know of 
to check the sender is by swaping one out with a known good one of the 
same type.

Check the connections along the wire between the sender and guage.  You 
may just have a bad connection.  Depending upon your car, there may be a 
connector between the guage connector and the sender connector.

>I also checked the gauge
>by grounding one terminal and giving the other 12 Volts.  The needle rose,
>but very slowly, and it fell even slower.  Is this gauge any good?  

Sounds good to me.  The guage is a thermally operated device.  It relys 
upon current flowing through a strip of metal to heat it up and move the 
needle.  It takes noticable time to heat the metal.  Thats why you see 
oil pressure idiot lights used with guages.  The light reacts quickly 
when you do not have oil pressure.  

>Also, does anyone know a way to check the idiot light?

I check mine everytime I start the car.  If the ignition switch is on and 
the engine has not yet started, the oil pressure idiot light should be 
lit.  When you start the engine the oil pressure light should go off.  If 
this happens everything is working OK.  The sender switch for the idiot 
light usually opens (turning off the lamp) at a low pressure.

The circuit is: 
12V supply to the lamp
Through filiment to other lamp terminal
Other lamp terminal to sender switch in the engine
Sender switch back to the 12V supply through ground.

Let me amend that. Above is the circuit of US spec positive earth  Land 
Rovers and may be the same for other versions.  Learned my lesson with 
snail cams...yep.

TeriAnn Wakeman              I subscribe to several high volume mail
Santa Cruz, California       Lists and do not read every posting. 
twakeman@cruzers.com         If you send me direct mail, please start
www.cruzers.com/~twakeman    subject with TW-  so I will know to read it.

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/alternative; 
boundary="----=_NextPart_000_01BD66BD.B8788480" ]
From: "Tom Dixon" <tomd@clear.net.nz>
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 09:22:46 +1200
Subject: Re Aluminium welding

Hello all on the list.
welding aluminium is an art and the only way you will get good at is
practise. This product that Lucas has seen is a good product however like
anything it does have its limits...read the paper work that comes with it.
I came across it a few years back and laughed when a mate told me about it.
He invited me up to give me a demo. He  took the top of a milk bottle
(which is dam thin Aluminium) cut in half and proceeded to weld it
together, I would not have believed it if I had not seen it. We then got
going on thicker stuff and did right angle, butt and overlap welding. I cut
the welds in half to look at a cross section of the weld and to the naked
eye it looked good. I was TRYING to fault this stuff. I think it is only
good for light welds eg filling in stripped thread holes and welding small
areas of aluminium. I cannot comment on panel welding. The product is dam
expensive here in New Zealand. This is of course only my humble opinion and
the fact the when I had my first dealing with the stuff I was working in my
trade which consists of welding. Buy a stick and have a play and form you
own opinion....BUT READ THE PAPER WORK FIRST!!
usual disclaimer etc etc
Cheers.......Tom Dixon
------=_NextPart_000_01BD66BD.B8788480
	[ Original post was HTML ]
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1 ]

------------------------------

From: "Bill Fishel" <bfishel@cisnet.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 17:43:27 -0400
Subject: Re:leaky swivel balls

From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 18:28:33 -0700
Subject: Re: leaky swivel seal

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
> If you do it the way the manual says, you need to remove the wheel, free
> wheel hub assembly, brake drum, wheel bearings, stub axle and axle before
> you can separate the swivel ball at the connection to the axle housing..

>.
You can do it that way if you like, but popping the six bolts on the
swivel base will put the entire assy in your hands. All you gotta do then
is pop a tie rod end and brake line and you can take the unit to your
work bench and replace the seal. BTDT. I'll race ya! ;-)

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

Hi All
I did this by the manual but I also needed to replace the U joint and
railco bearing
I knew I needed this when I started the job.

I also replaced the brake master cylinder and lines and wheel cylinders.
As much as I enjoyed bleeding the brakes several times, I would rather
avoid
having that much fun again.

I am curious how water tight splitting the seal will be? Isn't there a
small spring inside
the seal around the circumference of the lip? 

Anybody in the US ever had their swivel balls rechromed and where at?

Bill Fishel

------------------------------

From: Axel Pawlik <axelpawlik@tinet.ie>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 22:39:02 +0100
Subject: Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs

>As of Last month I can say I have used grease in The Green Rover's front 
>hubs for 20 years now and it has worked well the whole time. 

Sounds good. 

>Personally, I think oil would be a whole lot less forgiving of wear on 
>the hub seal.

Seems to make sense then to migrate. The manual refers to section
X for the type of grease to use, but there it only mentions "general
purpose grease". What are you using?

>Gosh. I'm afraid that I use a screwdriver and a mallet.  I confess that I 
>often use screwdrivers to pound and pry.

So do I. Only it makes me wish no mechanic (proper) should watch :-)

>Those locking washers, the felt axle seals and flat head screws that hold 
>the brake drums on are very cheap.  I always have a spare set of new ones 
>sitting around.  You rely on the washer to keep your front bearings in 
>place. Why not use new ones when they cost almost nothing?

Don't ask me, they are on my shopping list. I just took the thing apart
for the first time, and so all the PO's marks...

>Since I'm handy in the kitchen, I use a freezer and an oven.

Hey, so am I!

>First I clean the stub axle and race very carefully.  I try to get every 
>trace of grease off the race.

Would be a new race, no?

			  I don't know why men always 
>feel they need to bang on things ;^)  A little knowledge of physics can 
>go a long way.

... if applied. Ah, that's what they mean with "Applied Physics"...
Well, point taken.

Had a look at the old race again today, with sunshine. Apart
from the groove there's a really ugly dent on the front corner,
small but...

	thanks, Axel

------------------------------

From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Date: 	Sun, 12 Apr 1998 23:54:51 +0200
Subject: best way to check timing when fitting a new timing chain

Dear list,

As I have told you in a previous post my timing chain has broke. I am now
about to renew it and I have checked the procedure in my Repair Operation
Manual. This procedure includes aligning the EP mark on the flywheel with
the timing pointer, no problem with that but then I need to get the correct
position for the camshaft. The Manual suggests opening the engine top cover
and by using a dial test indicator find out when the no. 1 exhaust valve is
fully open. I would very much appreciate if someone could tell me if there
is alternative/easier ways to do this. Also I assume I will need to time
the dieselpump. The Manual uses a special tool, the timing gauge 605863, to
adjust the timing pointer for wear and tear in the gears. Is it possible to
do this without this special tool? 

All help is very much appreciated!

Peter
--------------------------------------
Peter Thoren 
1975 109" SIII Diesel
Långmyrtorp
740 20 Vänge
018-39 20 56
peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se
--------------------------------------

------------------------------

[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ]
From: "ROBERT B DUNKLE" <DUNKLE.RB@prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 16:33:27 -0600
Subject: Subscribe
	charset="iso-8859-1"

Subscribe

dunkle@cyberdude.com

------=_NextPart_000_0011_01BD6630.B8AAB320
	[ Original post was HTML ]
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: text/html; ]

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 19:08:22 -0400
Subject: Broken timing chain

Peter writes re his broken timing chain on a diesel.
 Changing the timing chains is relatively simple, I do urge you to be very
careful in setting the valve timing, it is critical to the performance of
the engine. The valves are perpendicular to the pistons and overlap them ,
therefore the valves will have struck the piston tops when the chain broke,
several possibiliites are 1) a hole in the piston, 2) broken rocker arm, 3)
broken rocker shaft mounting brackets 4) bent push rods.
 One advantage of the vertical valves is that they are unlikely to be bent. 

 On two occasions when I have seen this happen it was the push rods which
bent, these can be removed by slackening the tappet screw and compressing
the valve spring, then push the rocker to one side, roll the push rod on a
flat surface, it is easy to distinguish a bent one. They can be replaced
without the necessity to remove the head.
 A compression test can be carried out using the starter !!! handle, it will
be obviuos after two revolutions of the engine of there is a hole in the piston.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 19:15:31 -0400
Subject: Adjustable spanner

John, might I refer you to Land Rover part number 2707 " Adjustable Spanner"
in the ser1, 2 and 3 parts lists, there is a picture in the ser 3 list.
 I must also confess to being an engineer from North of Watford !!!
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: Wesley Harris <wharris@midmon.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 21:52:44 -0500
Subject: Brake Line Fever

Rover Folk,

The epic frameover saga continues on my sick, sick 88 and I need some hints
as to the routing of a particular brake line.  It's a LHD single line system
and the pipe I am confused about is the long driver's side from the flex up
front to the 5-way jct.  Does this line go down the frame, behind the
engine, along the bulkhead to the junction or straight across the inside
front crossmember, along the the other side frame rail to the jct?  Does it
matter?  

Cheers,
Wes Harris
'66 IIA 88" SW

------------------------------

From: Jarvis 64 <Jarvis64@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 22:58:35 EDT
Subject: Re:  Brake Line Fever

Wes,
On mine that line goes down the top of the frame rail, under the
engine/bellhousing (along the back of that crossmember) and then up to the
5-way jct.

Which makes me wonder why people say to bleed the LF brake cylinders first.
They say it's the closest, but actually the RF one seems closer to the master
in terms of feet of brake line, based on the way mine's routed.  Maybe this
routing is a PO trick, but I don't think so.

Bill Rice
64 SIIA 109

------------------------------

From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 15:35:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Spring Cleaning Blow out!

Hi Mike,
 Well if you have any one piece doors in your would you please let Kevin
know what you what for them.  I have a special project which could use a
pair.  I can rebuild them I think.

Thanks,
Rob

------------------------------

From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 23:21:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Greased vs. oiled hubs

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:

> Gosh. I'm afraid that I use a screwdriver and a mallet.  I confess that 
> I often use screwdrivers to pound and pry.  .
>From my days of selling tools to the "professional crowd", a screwdriver 

was a tool that was used to 'scrape, pry, gouge, drive, pinch, hammer, 
poke and generally use in any manner that was deemed necessary, even use 
with screws if need be. The real trouble with this versatile tool is not 
for what it is used as, but the name that it's given. ;-) 

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 05:43:55 -0600
Subject: Re: Series Sliders in San Diego

John,

We are going to be the ones to cover the cost of the sliders, not Greg. We
are expecting to hook up with him in MOAB this next weekend. Then we'll get
back in touch with you with a date for the measurements.

Thanks,
John Wood

------------------------------

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 05:50:11 -0600
Subject: Re: MB300D convertion question

Anders,
While I did suggest that we look into it, I unfortunately do not have any
experience with it. 88 or 109!

I belive that the fitting would be very simmilar. One would need to adjust
the suspension to accomodate a diesel if going from a petrol.

The idea has been discussed in terms of utilizing a second hand or available
2.25D bell housing and fabricating an addapter plate. It is my understanding
that there would also be some engine comaprtment modification/alteration
that would be necessary due to engine size differences.

Good Luck, Let me know if you do it, I'll let you know if I get to that
stage.

John Wood

------------------------------

From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Date: 	Mon, 13 Apr 1998 11:36:56 +0200
Subject: Re: Broken timing chain

At 19:08 1998-04-12 -0400, you wrote:
>Peter writes re his broken timing chain on a diesel.
> Changing the timing chains is relatively simple, I do urge you to be very
>careful in setting the valve timing, it is critical to the performance of
>the engine. The valves are perpendicular to the pistons and overlap them ,
>therefore the valves will have struck the piston tops when the chain broke,
>several possibiliites are 1) a hole in the piston, 2) broken rocker arm, 3)
>broken rocker shaft mounting brackets 4) bent push rods.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
> A compression test can be carried out using the starter !!! handle, it will
>be obviuos after two revolutions of the engine of there is a hole in the
piston.
>Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
> 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 
>careful in setting the valve timing, it is critical to the performance of

Is it for sure that any or several of the above stated possible damages has
occured or is it just as likely that the only necessary repair is the chain
itself? I know that for several engines it is likely to cause severe damage
if the timimg belt goes off and for others (like the Volvo B21 engine) they
usually hold up.

/Peter
--------------------------------------
Peter Thoren 
1975 109" SIII Diesel
Långmyrtorp
740 20 Vänge
018-39 20 56
peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se
--------------------------------------

------------------------------

  END OF * LIST DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 38 lines 1858 [forwarded 205 whitespace 0]
 Output: lines 1284 [content 1136  forwarded 109 (cut  96) whitespace 0]

Digest Messages Copyright 1990-1999 by the original poster or/and Empire Rover Owners Society, All rights reserved. Photos & text Copyright 1990-1999 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Empire/LRO List of charges for Empire/LRO Policies against the distribution of unsolicited commercial e-mail (aka SPAM). Empire/LRO fees for the distribution of unsolicited commercial e-mail (aka SPAM). Frequently Asked Questions
<--Back	HOME	TOP	Forward -->	height=31 width=88 alt="Made with Macintosh" border=0>