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From: Lucas Cascardo <cascardo@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 09:52:28 -0400
Subject: Aluminium welding

Hello,

I was flipping through the channels yesterday when I came across a paid
advertisement for a product called Alumaloy.  It was a product to weld
aluminum together using only a propane torch.  They used it to repair an
engine manifold, ladders, boats, etc.  They claim that you can drill and
tap through it, they did some v-groove welds.  The advertisement seemed
pretty convincing, but I have also been sold on automatic cleaning cat
boxes.  It seemed like a handy product.  Has any one heard of this
stuff?

Lucas C.
NASd90sw

------------------------------

From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Date: 	Sat, 11 Apr 1998 16:21:20 +0200
Subject: leaky swivel seal

Hello list,

Just noticed today that my right swivel seal is leaking. Before today the
seal was not leaking at all and suddenly it looks like the Niagara falls.
The LR was parked with the tyres in a sharp (as sharp as it gets in a
LR...) angle. Are the seals more likely to leak in certain "tyre
positions"? Well it looks like I am going to spend another couple of hours
getting my hands oily. Does it never end? Any good tips on how to change
these seals out there? Hopefully no strange English today...

/Peter

Peter Thoren
Work:  Department of Genetics
       Uppsala University
       Box 7003; S-750 07 Uppsala
       Phone: +46 18 67 12 69
       Fax:   +46 18 67 27 05
       e-mail peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se

Home:  Långmyrtorp
       740 20 Vänge
       Phone/fax: +46 18 39 20 56
       e-mail: same as above

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 98 07:38:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Aluminium welding

;>I was flipping through the channels yesterday when I came across a paid
;>advertisement for a product called Alumaloy.  It was a product to weld
;>aluminum together using only a propane torch.  They used it to repair an
;>engine manifold, ladders, boats, etc.  They claim that you can drill and
;>tap through it, they did some v-groove welds.  The advertisement seemed
;>pretty convincing, but I have also been sold on automatic cleaning cat
;>boxes.  It seemed like a handy product.  Has any one heard of this
;>stuff?

Gee didn't we have this thread just five or six years ago?

If it's the stuff I'm thinking of it works well.  I purchased  several 
rods of the stuff at my local county fair about ten years ago and have 
some experience with it.

Both aluminum surfaces have to be very clean.  Like solder, you need to 
get the surfaces hot enough for the rod to melt and flow.  It is 
basically a braising technique.  If you know how to properly braise steel 
you know how to use this stuff.  If not, check out a book on welding 
techniques from your local library.  

Aluminum is a great conductor of heat.  I the rods to braze fine on small 
parts using a propane torch but I could not get body panels hot enough to 
flow the rod properly.  If you go with a hotter torch, you run the risk 
of too much local heating melting away the surrounding sheet metal.  
Also, you can easily stretch the sheet metal.  Practice  on similar size 
& shaped materials before applying to the body of your car.

There are a bunch of people on the list with experience with the stuff.

TeriAnn Wakeman                       The Green Rover, rebuilt and
Santa Cruz, California                and maintained using parts from
twakeman@cruzers.com                  British Pacific 800-554-4133
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman      

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 98 08:50:06 -0700
Subject: Re: leaky swivel seal

:>Just noticed today that my right swivel seal is leaking.

<snip>

;> Any good tips on how to change these seals out there?

I have one that Scotty taught me many moons ago ....

First some background:

The inside of the swivel ball is almost half filled with 90 wt.  This oil 
is not under pressure.  The purpose of the seal is to keep that pool of 
90 wt from leaking out the bottom half of the swivel.  So only the bottom 
two thirds or so of the seal will be needed to keep the oil in.

The purpose of that smooth clean swivel ball is to give the seal a smooth 
surface to ride on so the seal lip seals and is not damaged by rough 
edges.

The purpose of optional swivel boot is to keep dirt off the swivel ball 
surface so that a particle does not destroy a part of the lip or get 
lodged in the seal lip.  A problem with a boot is that they can trap 
moisture inside and accelerate swivel ball rusting.  This can be a real 
problem if you wade your car frequently, or you live in a place where 
salty water can get splashed up from the road.  Many people forgo the 
boot and make cleaning the swivel ball area a part of their regular after 
trip maintenance.

Now for the fix:

The very first thing that you need to do is clean the swivel ball and 
seal area  and examine the swivel ball itself.

If your swivel balls are in good condition (smooth without pitting) you 
can just replace the seal.

If your swivel ball is pitted, you need to get out the workshop manual 
and disassemble the whole thing to repair or replace the swivel ball.  
This would also be a good time to renew the railko bushings too.  Since 
you will have the tie rod disconnected, you might as well check the tie 
rod ends and replace them too if needed. 

Since the goal is a smooth surface for the seal to ride on, the ball can 
be repaired with a good body filler or epoxy filler.  If you make this 
kind of repair, you need to be absolutely sure that the surface is very 
smooth and you keep the contours correct. Just the tiniest edge from your 
repair can damage the seal's lip.  The ball can also be repaired by 
having it hard chromed.  Alternatively, you can just purchase new swivel 
balls.

Assuming that your swivel balls are in good condition, you can replace 
the seal without disassembling the swivels.

First, drain the swivel, remove the seal retaining plate and pry out the 
seal.

Cut the seal off and clean the area around the seal.

Take a new swivel seal (Federal Mogul # 410694) and carefully cut through 
it taking care to damage it the least possible.  Clean up any burrs along 
the edge of the cut.

Pull one end of the cut forward and one end back to create an opening and 
slip the seal over the clean narrow section of the swivel.  

Coat the surface of the hub where the outside of the seal will rest with 
a thin coating of a good sealant.  Carefully seat the seal into the hub 
with the cut at the top.

Replace the retaining plate and tighten carefully.  If you over tighten 
the plate, you will distort the seal and cause it to leak.

Refill the swivel ball and you are done.

TeriAnn Wakeman                       The Green Rover, rebuilt and
Santa Cruz, California                and maintained using parts from
twakeman@cruzers.com                  British Pacific 800-554-4133
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman      

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 12:06:19 -0400

>I recently obtained a 73 Lightweight in England. The army history is 
as follows:
11/7/73		CVD Hilton
18/7/73		A D P C O N
7/8/73		118 Army RECCE Coy R.E.M.E
28/10/76	HQ 19 Air PEB LBDE & Signal Squadron
1/1/77		1 Squadron RCT W/Shop R.E.M.E
30/1/79		V.D. Hilton
10/4/80		23 SAS (V)
8/9/80		31005 DD Ruddington
Can anybody out there shed any light on these army units?
Thanks
Peter Goundry

 Ruddington is a Disposal Depot, where they send the stuff that they no
longer need, through the seventies and early eighties it was the site of the
auctions for most of the miliatary land Rovers that were released.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 12:11:04 -0400
Subject: King Dick

John writes 
That funny looking adjustable wrench is known as a" King Dick".  

 King Dick is or perhaps was, a maker of tools, they made the complete line
of wrenches and hand tools of middle order quality. The tool you refer to is
an "adjustable spanner" or wrench for the colonists.Many companies make a
similar product. It is not a similar situation to the US Crescent wrench
which  has become a generic term. 
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Date: 	Sat, 11 Apr 1998 18:34:57 +0200
Subject: my LR just died...timing chain broke

Dear List,

I think I know why my LR diesel suddenly died yesterday. Initially I
thought the starter motor was engaged by loose cables but now I think it is
the timing chain that is the problem. After refitting the cables I could
run the starter motor again. I could see the fan swirling (?) but the car
wouldnt start and I think the starter engine is running to fast and easy.
So my theory now is that the timing chain is gone. What are the chances
that my diesel engine survived this? and how difficult is it to change the
chain? Are there other things to change when I do this? 

/Peter who would very much appreciate help on the above topic. By the way,
thanks TeriAnne for the advice concerning the swivel seal!

--------------------------------------
Peter Thoren 
1975 109" SIII Diesel
Långmyrtorp
740 20 Vänge
018-39 20 56
peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se
--------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 14:35:44 -0700
Subject: Re: leaky swivel seal

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
>.
> The purpose of the seal is to keep that pool of
> 90 wt from leaking out the bottom half of the swivel. So only the bottom
> two thirds or so of the seal will be needed to keep the oil in.

Yes, but it also serves to keep out all the other road grundge water when 
wading.

> Take a new swivel seal (Federal Mogul # 410694) and carefully cut through
> it taking care to damage it the least possible. 

 Kinda radical eh? I'd prefer to separate the swivel ball from the axle 
casing, pull the assy off, and then slip a new seal over the ball.

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 98 12:14:26 -0700
Subject: Re: leaky swivel seal

;>TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:

;>> Take a new swivel seal and carefully cut through
;>> it taking care to damage it the least possible.
 
;> Kinda radical eh? I'd prefer to separate the swivel ball from the axle 
;>casing, pull the assy off, and then slip a new seal over the ball.

Not really.  The seal still seals what it needs to seal.  Replacment 
becomes a quck easy job.

If you do it the way the manual says, you need to remove the wheel, free 
wheel hub assembly, brake drum, wheel bearings, stub axle and axle before 
you can separate the swivel ball at the connection to the axle housing.  

Admittedly it provides you with an oppertunity to examine and renew brake 
shoes, wheel brake cylinders, wheel bearings, hub oil seals and races, 
axle 'U' joints and the seal at the junction of the ball joint and swivel 
ball.  This also provides you with an oppertunity to make sure that your 
steering stop bolts are properly adjusted.  If you decide that your 
railko bushes are worn, you have already done most of the disassembly 
work.

The method described in the manual provides you with an excellent 
oppertunity to assure that your front end is in good operating condition. 
 It also exposes you to a probable full blown case of ship fitters 
disease. 

I would say, if you are in a hurry or know that your front end is in 
otherwise very good condition, try the method that Scotty tought me.  If 
your front end is in poor or unknown condition follow the workshop 
manual.  It provides you with the oppertunity to make sure everything is 
ship shape.

Ether way, you end up with a seal that seals where it is supposed to 
seal..If you have done the job correctly.

TeriAnn Wakeman              I subscribe to several high volume mail
Santa Cruz, California       Lists and do not read every posting. 
twakeman@cruzers.com         If you send me direct mail, please start
www.cruzers.com/~twakeman    subject with TW-  so I will know to read it.

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 21:14:58 +0200
Subject: Imperial to metric conversions

Thanks to all who helped me with conversion factors - now I have made a
useful excel sheet which contains all the useful ones (unless you are a
nuclear physicist that is) I anyone wants a copy, just mail me, its only
a small file.

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 13:03:26 -0700
Subject: Use of the word "motor."

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 19:53:10 EDT
Subject: Re: my Land Rover just died

>LRW has an annoying (to me, at least) habit of calling cars "motors" as
in: "So equipped, these venerable motors seemed to be able to almost walk on
water, with similarly equipped Series IIs nearly as adept." (Talking about
Land Rovers with special tyres.) Another minor quibble, I know, but they all
keep me from taking them seriously.

Referring to vehicles as "motors" is a pretty common thing in the UK,
although based on my frequent visits to England, Scotland, and Wales the
word is not used much in conversation any more.  But it still seems to be
quite common in the "motor press" as the automotive magazine trade is
sometimes referred to over there.  It is just as legitimate as the other UK
terms that ARE used in everyday conversation, most of which I'm sure you
are aware of.  "Boot" is what we in the US call the "trunk," "hood" is what
we call the "top," "bonnet" is what we call the "hood," "wings" are what we
call the "fenders," and "lights" is sometimes still used in place of the
word "windows" although that seems to be getting pretty rare these days.

I don't know where Land Rover World is published, as the only Land Rover
magazine I get is Land Rover Owner, but if LRW is from the UK, the use of
the word "motor" is a perfectly normal and acceptable word to use in place
of "vehicle," "car," "automobile," etc.  The fact that we don' t use the
word in this way in the US doesn't make it wrong, just different (to us).
It should not defer anyone from taking an article in a UK magazine
seriously; it's a perfectly legitimate word in that part of the world.
I've even occasionally heard vehicles referred to as "motors" in Italy,
France, and Belgium, too.

________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
   Seattle, WA

------------------------------

From: John Lewis <lewisjb@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 13:48:06 -0700
Subject: Series Sliders in San Diego

I live in Canyon Lake, CA just about 10-15 minutes from Safari Gard, and
have a Series 3 88".  I can get it to them about any weekend and leave
it for the day or for the week for them to use.  Or, can get them the
keys and they can pick it up any time they want to do it.  Only time I
need it is the 30th of the month to take to the dealer's 50th party, but
sure we can work around that.
Will be camping / Rovering at Salton Sea this week, but guess Greg is
gone too.  I called SG, and any time they are ready can get it over
there!
Cheers!
John Lewis
H  909-244-1697
W. 714-903-5023

------------------------------

From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 18:40:20 -0300
Subject: Re: King Dick

William L. Leacock wrote:
> John writes
> That funny looking adjustable wrench is known as a" King Dick".
>  King Dick is or perhaps was, a maker of tools, they made the complete line
> of wrenches and hand tools of middle order quality. The tool you refer to is
> an "adjustable spanner" or wrench for the colonists.Many companies make a
> similar product. It is not a similar situation to the US Crescent wrench
> which  has become a generic term.

I beg to differ, that is/was exactly the situation with the King Dick
where I grew up in southern England. That style of adjustable spanner/
wrench was called by that name and almost never referred to as an
adjustable which would have been the Cresent style.
   John and Muddy (also a Limey in exile)

------------------------------

From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 17:40:25 -0700
Subject: Re: leaky swivel seal

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
> If you do it the way the manual says, you need to remove the wheel, free
> wheel hub assembly, brake drum, wheel bearings, stub axle and axle before
> you can separate the swivel ball at the connection to the axle housing..

You can do it that way if you like, but popping the six bolts on the 
swivel base will put the entire assy in your hands. All you gotta do then 
is pop a tie rod end and brake line and you can take the unit to your 
work bench and replace the seal. BTDT. I'll race ya! ;-)

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 18:28:33 -0700
Subject: Re: leaky swivel seal

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
> If you do it the way the manual says, you need to remove the wheel, free
> wheel hub assembly, brake drum, wheel bearings, stub axle and axle before
> you can separate the swivel ball at the connection to the axle housing..

>.
You can do it that way if you like, but popping the six bolts on the
swivel base will put the entire assy in your hands. All you gotta do then
is pop a tie rod end and brake line and you can take the unit to your
work bench and replace the seal. BTDT. I'll race ya! ;-)

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 01:12:50 +0200
Subject: Re: King Dick

I have a big king dick in my workshop. It is a chrome plated, open ended
spanner with an opening of about 3 inches. It is about 85 cm long and
weighs at least 10 kg. I bought it at a sale in England years ago, and
as yet have never had the need for it, but it's a great tool. I wouldn't
like to drop it on my foot though.

The words "King Dick" are forged into the recessed handle, just like CK
or Bahco.

Originally I thought it was an exhibition piece, but since many people
have assured me that it is a genuine tool, made for heavy mechanics such
as ships motors or turbines.

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 17:25:52 -0700
Subject: King Dick was Re: LR tool Kit

john cranfield wrote:

> That funny looking adjustable wrench is known as a" King Dick".

I'm not sure about that.  King Dick is a brand.  I've got a set of
theirsockets.  This could however, be similiar to the "Mole" wrench vs.
Vise Grips common usage.  I believe my wrench is stamped King Dick.

BTW another brand is Britool.

They both seem to be reasonably good.

cheers

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: PScales <pscales@blvl.igs.net>
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 22:38:07
Subject: Re: Aluminium welding

>>...a product called Alumaloy.  It was a product to weld aluminum 
>>together using only a propane torch.

TeriAnn wrote:
>Gee didn't we have this thread just five or six years ago?

Some of us weren't here five or six years ago.

>I could not get body panels hot enough to 
>flow the rod properly.  If you go with a hotter torch, you run the risk 
>of too much local heating melting away the surrounding sheet metal.

I queried a local welder about conventional aluminum welding, and he tried
to shy away from it.  Then he told me a trick he learned years ago: if you
are working aluminum in the shop, turn off the lights and blank the
windows; if you are outside, wait till after sundown.  In either case, one
needs a bit of ambient light.  Then fire up the torch, and warm the
aluminum until it glows dull orange.  This can only be seen in low light.
I like the sound of Alumaloy, and appreciate TeriAnn's comments.  Has
anyone tried the "welding in the half light" procedure?

Peter
Trenton, Ontario

------------------------------

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