[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | Easton Trevor [Trevor_Ea | 11 | Mile Marker and Pumps |
2 | Easton Trevor [Trevor_Ea | 10 | Transmission Oils |
3 | Jarvis 64 [Jarvis64@aol. | 14 | Salisbury prop. |
4 | "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" | 40 | Capstan winches |
5 | "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" | 28 | Pseudo Rovers |
6 | "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" | 26 | Galvanizing |
7 | dbobeck@inetmail.ushmm.o | 26 | An Adam Sandler Passover (LR content)- |
8 | "K. John Wood" [jwrover@ | 26 | FREE SLIDERS FOR SAN DIEGO SEIRES OWNER |
9 | Alan_Richer@motorcity2.l | 9 | Re: An Adam Sandler Passover (LR content)- |
10 | "Swaner, Shawn" [SSwaner | 37 | Phoenix LR Mechanics? |
11 | Tony Treace [atreace@HAS | 40 | RE: Phoenix LR Mechanics? |
12 | TeriAnn Wakeman [twakema | 25 | Re: Salisbury prop. |
13 | Alan_Richer@motorcity2.l | 16 | Re: Phoenix LR Mechanics? |
14 | JB Kropp [JB@flycast.com | 23 | grinding gears |
15 | "Faure, Marin" [Marin.Fa | 57 | Re: sealing up oil leaks |
16 | "Faure, Marin" [Marin.Fa | 42 | Re: Tires for Series LR |
17 | Mick Forster [cmtmgf@mai | 14 | New pics |
18 | NADdMD [NADdMD@aol.com> | 20 | What's in an original LR tool kit? |
19 | nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.one | 14 | Re: What's in an original LR tool kit? |
20 | "Faure, Marin" [Marin.Fa | 43 | Re: Roll up windows,"hurricane blast" |
21 | "Faure, Marin" [Marin.Fa | 33 | Re: Fluids Weight Choices |
22 | DONOHUE PE [DONOHUEPE@ao | 31 | Parts Car |
23 | DONOHUE PE [DONOHUEPE@ao | 19 | Land Rovers as Fashionable |
24 | ASFCO@worldnet.att.net | 14 | Re: Land Rovers as Fashionable |
25 | David Scheidt [david@inf | 13 | wiring a delco alternator |
26 | Alan_Richer@motorcity2.l | 12 | Re: wiring a delco alternator |
27 | David Scheidt [david@inf | 20 | Re: wiring a delco alternator |
28 | DONOHUE PE [DONOHUEPE@ao | 21 | Translations |
29 | SPYDERS [SPYDERS@aol.com | 22 | Re: Tires for Series LR |
30 | SPYDERS [SPYDERS@aol.com | 17 | Re: What's in an original LR tool kit? |
31 | SPYDERS [SPYDERS@aol.com | 16 | Re: Land Rovers as Fashionable Embassy Cars |
32 | SPYDERS [SPYDERS@aol.com | 26 | Re: Land Rovers as Fashionable/satirical |
33 | Solihull [Solihull@aol.c | 102 | You are what you drive, was LRs as Fashionable/satirical |
34 | "Russell G. Dushin" [dus | 41 | Re: What's in an original LR tool kit? |
35 | SPYDERS [SPYDERS@aol.com | 22 | Re: What's in an original LR tool kit? |
36 | ecrover@midcoast.com (Mi | 29 | Tool Kit |
37 | "William L. Leacock" [wl | 25 | Transfer Box oil leaks |
38 | Adrian Redmond [channel6 | 28 | Internet speeding! |
39 | "Russell G. Dushin" [dus | 20 | Re:those mysterious white gloves |
40 | SPYDERS [SPYDERS@aol.com | 18 | Re:those mysterious white gloves |
41 | David Scheidt [david@inf | 53 | Re: What's in an original LR tool kit? |
42 | Jett.Hogger@prodigy.com | 10 | wiring a delco alternator |
43 | James Wolf [J.Wolf@world | 16 | chickens |
From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca> Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 07:47:00 -0400 Subject: Mile Marker and Pumps Jeff, if you are adding a power steering pump just to operate the winch I would suggest you install some means of engaging/disengaging the drive to the pump. An electric clutch ala A/C or a demountable belt. The 2283 really doesn't have power to spare for driving the pump all the time and whats the point anyway if you are not using it for power steering. ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca> Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 07:55:00 -0400 Subject: Transmission Oils I've just had a recommendation from an oil expert for Chevron Delo Gear Oil apparently this is a conventional oil with some special additives that result in reduced friction, less heat etc. Maybe a good fluid for those overworked overdives. Anyone out there have experience of this oil. ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Jarvis 64 <Jarvis64@aol.com> Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 08:08:50 EDT Subject: Salisbury prop. Hi list, Yup, mea culpa on the tires for sure. How much do I need to shorten my propshaft when I switch from Rover diff to Salisbury? I've heard both 2 inches and 1 inch. Should I just compromise and go w/ 1.5? Bill Rice ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net> Date: Thu, 09 Apr 1998 09:44:10 -0400 Subject: Capstan winches "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com> wrote: >Having abandoned hopes of finding a complete capstan winch, I'm now >considering a MileMarker for FINSUP. Don't give up hope so soon. Robert Davis has several on a container that is scheduled to dock any day now.... >MM makes two sizes of their two speed winch. A 10,500# model and 9,000# >version. Cost difference is minimal--less than $100. Not sure what the >size/weight for each are yet--working on it. All other things being equal, I believe the 10,500# model is a *two speed* winch, one for spooling in cable, the other for working. If you have not fitted an overdrive, there is an original Rover rear PTO fitting available from Craddock's and other suppliers. You sould be able to mate that with any small hydraulic pump from Northern hydraulics. The winch will need at least 4 GPM, preferring 6-8 GPM. The only other consideration is siting/fitting an oil reservoir. NH also markets a belt-driven hydraylic pump with an *electric* clutch. If you've fitted an OD already and have room in the engine bay for it, this may be the best of all possible worlds, as you switch on the pump only when you need it. Cheers *----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----* | | | A. P. ("Sandy") Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. | | Association of North American Rover Clubs | | 1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 | *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----* ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net> Date: Thu, 09 Apr 1998 09:44:07 -0400 Subject: Pseudo Rovers Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr> wrote: >Talking about Santanas, I saw a Series III car the other day, but it had >some things different from the average SIII. The most noticiable were that >the rear door was shorter... >Is this a variant propper of the Santanas, or is it just that I hadn't seen >that variant before? Many years ago, when the Cousteau Society had their headquarters here in town, they drove these Fiat 4X4's that from the rear were *dead ringers* for Rovers. Same roofline, rear quarter lites, etc. The wheelbase was the same, only the nose was slightly different.... Cheers *----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----* | | | A. P. ("Sandy") Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. | | Association of North American Rover Clubs | | 1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 | *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----* ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net> Date: Thu, 09 Apr 1998 09:44:09 -0400 Subject: Galvanizing WRT the thread on hot-dipping, it's typically a multi-step process. At Virginia Galvanizing (before they got so bloody expensive for small items like frames - they do interstate bridge parts up to 70' in one dip) they first dip the part in an alkalai bath to remove grease and other organics. Then it's an acid bath (the "pickle tank") to remove/convert rust. To prevent warping and preserve the temps in the zinc bath, they use a preheat pit using waste heat from the zinc pit to preheat the parts actually being dipped. Diesel Bob had his 88 frame and bulkhead done as one unit, and aside from the door hinge bolts becoming welded in place, it was an excellent job. Cheers *----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----* | | | A. P. ("Sandy") Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. | | Association of North American Rover Clubs | | 1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 | *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----* ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: dbobeck@inetmail.ushmm.org Date: Wed, 08 Apr 98 12:30:17 EST Subject: An Adam Sandler Passover (LR content)- to all the other jews on the list! Hi Quintin! (and Flo) Sorry I can't make it this year... this was fwd'ed to me by my brother. its pretty dumb but the last line redeems it...I swear it was not modified by me! later DaveB >Subject: An Adam Sandler Passover >Subject: This goes to the tune of Adam Sandler's "chanuka song"! >>> This is a song for all those kids who can't eat >>> leavened things during Passover. >>> Jerry from Seinfeld, Jason Alexander, too >>> Celebrate Passover, just like me and you... [ truncated by list-digester (was 63 lines)] >>> Get in your Land Rover, >>> and come celebrate Passover. --UNS_gsauns2_2841308026-- ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
[digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ] From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com> Date: Sun, 5 Apr 1998 05:40:26 -0600 Subject: FREE SLIDERS FOR SAN DIEGO SEIRES OWNER charset="iso-8859-1" TO ANY sAN dIEGO sERIES 11A/111 owNER, Ther is a project that Safari Gard and a couple of deperate guys in CO = need your help with. If you can get your 88' S11a /111 to Greg at Safari Gard by the end of = the month for fitting/ measurring of R/D rock sliders you will get a = free set. Please contact BOB 303-465-0016 or John 303-774-9225 Thanks John ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BD6055.5615D540 [ Original post was HTML ] [digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: text/html; ] ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 09:47:54 -0400 Subject: Re: An Adam Sandler Passover (LR content)- It got nuked, Dave - try again without the arrow thingies. ajr ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Swaner, Shawn" <SSwaner@phx.sunamerica.com> Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 06:14:57 -0800 Subject: Phoenix LR Mechanics? Hi folks: I recently moved to Phoenix AZ, and just prior to moving found out the horrible truth behind the Beast's (a '62 IIa 88) lack of power. I had looked at carb, fuel pump, fuel lines, and valves for the cause of a lack of power and a top speed of 40mph. At RN's suggestion, I finally built up the courage to check the compression and found that the cylinder #1 barely moved the needle on the compression gauge. I squirted about 2-3 ounces of oil into the cylinder and checked again to see if it was the valves or the piston, and again the guage barely moved. So, I am pretty sure that the rover needs an engine overhaul. I do not have the time, workspace or tools to do this myself. Is there a mechanic in the Phoenix area that would take a project like this. In northern Utah, where I moved from, even the "European Auto Specialists" wouldn't touch it. Also, what should I expect to pay for an overhaul, laborwise, as I would expect to provide parts to the mechanic from BNW or RN? Should I consider this overhaul for a rover that has an aging frame, or should I put it on the market and sell it to someone needing a restoration project? The Beast still drives pretty well, I think it has been going since August on 3 cylinders, but I know it's days are numbered. Thanks, Shawn Swaner '62 IIa 88" SW "The Beast" ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Tony Treace <atreace@HASimons.com> Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 07:41:43 -0700 Subject: RE: Phoenix LR Mechanics? > I squirted about 2-3 ounces of oil into the cylinder and checked again > to > see if it was the valves or the piston, and again the guage barely > moved. What was the compression in the other three cylinders? Almost zero compression even after adding oil to the cylinder is a good indication of valve problems. Probably a burned exhaust valve. So you might not need a complete rebuild after all, just a valve job. > Also, what should I expect to pay for an overhaul, laborwise, as I > would > expect to provide parts to the mechanic from BNW or RN? > moved. Obtain the parts yourself from a reputable supplier. ;^) > Should I consider this overhaul for a rover that has an aging frame, > or should I > put it on the market and sell it to someone needing a restoration > project? Forget everything I just said. You should definitely just sell it to me for $500. > The Beast still drives pretty well, I think it has been going since > August on 3 cylinders, but I know it's days are numbered. > put it on the market and sell it to someone needing a restoration Good Luck, Tony Treace atreace@hasimons.com 1967 109 SW 1951 80 HT ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com> Date: Thu, 9 Apr 98 08:18:31 -0700 Subject: Re: Salisbury prop. ;>How much do I need to shorten my propshaft when I switch from Rover diff to ;>Salisbury? I've heard both 2 inches and 1 inch. Should I just compromise ;>and go w/ 1.5? Hi Bill The Salisbury rear axle came stock on a series III 109. When I made my conversion I opted for a new series III 109 rear prop shaft. My rear drive shaft measures 31-1/2 inches from the center of the rear 'U' joint hole to the shoulder where it narrows down. Hope this helps Take care, TeriAnn Wakeman The Green Rover, rebuilt and Santa Cruz, California and maintained using parts from twakeman@cruzers.com British Pacific 800-554-4133 http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 11:24:52 -0400 Subject: Re: Phoenix LR Mechanics? More to the point, do the check with all 4 plugs out - sounds like you might just have a buggered head gasket. The other thing to do is bring #1 to near-TDC and shine a light into the sparkplug hole. If you still have a piston crown, then it might just be the gasket indeed. Been there, seen this - turned out to be blown at the back between 3 and 4. ajr ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: JB Kropp <JB@flycast.com> Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 08:40:13 -0700 Subject: grinding gears Ok all, here's one for you: I have a '71 IIA and my 1st and reverse gear grind pretty loud. I know it is normal to howl a bit but this is loud. Anyway, I had the idea to take off the main gear box cover and try to see if there are any broken or badly scored teeth on first gear. So, last night I took the cover off and tried to get a glimpse of the gears. 1st gear looked great but one of the reverse gears looked as if someone took a file to it; the top of the teeth were scored. I think one of the reverse gears shares one of 1st gears on the layshaff making them both very loud, make sense? Now, I need to figure out if it is worth all the time, energy and money to take out the entire gear box and rebuild it now that it is this far along. Mind you, I was able to get the cover off without taking out the seat box. Also, do you think I need to worry about the loud noise now that we know 1st is completely intact? Thx, JB ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com> Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 08:39:59 -0700 Subject: Re: sealing up oil leaks From: Peter Thoren <peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se> Date: Wed, 08 Apr 1998 14:09:21 +0000 Subject: sealing up oil leaks Dear List, > Now I need to know something completely different. I have some oil leaks , not severe but it disturbes me to see the small tracks always left behind when parking. I have located the leaks to the bottomplate under the transferbox and to the engine oil tray. I have desided to take these ones off and replace the old washer with Hermatite washer in a tube (sorry, dont know would this would be in english... hope you know what I mean). Since this must be a very common problem for LR owners I am sure this has been asked on the list many times before. Could someone please give me a resume on sealing old Land Rovers up? Is it really possible? and if so what is the best proven technique to do so? My Land Rover was totally leak-free for the first five years after I bought it new in 1973. After that, it started leaking a fair amount. One source of oil leaks is the front crank oil seal in the timing gear cover. Oil that comes out of here blows back under the vehicle and collects on the crossmember under the transmission, making it appear the leak is coming from there. Other leak points are the oil pan and, eventually, the joint seams in the transmission and transfer case. You can chase these leaks forever and you may even have a degree of success. Although I intend (some year) to replace the front oil seal and pulley, which has a groove worn in it after 25 years so a new oil seal alone won't fix the leak, and I had the transmission overhauled some years ago when all the joint seals turned to dust and seeped oil almost as fast as I put it in, I don't worry much about the leaks. I figure if the frame and other components have oil on them they won't rust or squeak. As far as my engine oil leak up front, the faster it leaks out the faster I have to add new oil which means the cleaner my engine oil is all the time. After 25 years of Land Rover ownership I have adopted the policy of ignoring oil leaks unless or until it becomes a hassle to replenish the oil. This applies to engine and transmission/transfer case leaks. Wheel hub leaks I repair right away as they can affect the brakes. __________________ C. Marin Faure faurecm@halcyon.com marin.faure@boeing.com (original owner) 1973 Land Rover Series III-88 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com> Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 08:52:22 -0700 Subject: Re: Tires for Series LR From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr> Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 08:17:34 -0500 Subject: Tires for Series LR > As I have mentioned before, I'm just begining to learn about LRs. I was concerned about the tire size to use, since the ones that are usually fit here in LRs practically dont deserve to be called tires! (too skinny and short) They look awfull. While skinny tires may not look cool on a Land Rover (or any other 4x4), they are in reality much better for off-road use than fat tires except in cases where you need the floatation of fat tires: on sand, or on boggy ground. Narrow tires do a far better job on loose surfaces like gravel, dirt, or loose rock than fat tires. I ran fatter than stock tires on my Series III for a few years and then went back to a relatively narrow tire designed for agricultural use. They're very aggressive and noisy on pavement, but they outperform the fatter tires I used to run in virtually every off-road situation I've been in, which has NOT included soft sand or boggy ground. For the kind of off-road conditions I encounter in the Cascade Mountains of Washington State and on the logging and mining roads of British Columbia, I've found a narrow, aggressive tire to be superior to anything else. I also run inner tubes in my tires even though they don't need them. I've had a tubeless tire loose it's seal on the rim and go flat on a rough logging road; the tube keeps that from happening. __________________ C. Marin Faure faurecm@halcyon.com marin.faure@boeing.com (original owner) 1973 Land Rover Series III-88 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Mick Forster <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk> Date: Thu, 09 Apr 1998 17:07:28 +0100 Subject: New pics Hi all, I've put some new Landy pics about restoring my LWB Safari on: http://stox49.soc.staffs.ac.uk/www49/ The text will follow later and hopefully more pictures. Mick Forster ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com> Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 12:09:16 EDT Subject: What's in an original LR tool kit? Hi all, I was cleaning up some of the bits around the Roverhood and found tucked into a rotting seatbox tool/battery box a set of rusty tools in a heavy canvas like pouch. I am curious if this is an original tool kit. It contains pliers, an odd looking adjustable wrench like tool (almost like calipers) and an assortment of open box wrenches which are rather rusty but do say "Made in England" on the handle. Anyone know about this type of tool kit? Nate ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu Date: Thu, 09 Apr 1998 12:21:03 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: What's in an original LR tool kit? that sounds like the original kit that came with my rovers, an assortment of english open ended wrenches, and adjustable wrench(small 9" long monkey wrench marked"utica" probably not original!), maybe a spark plug thingy and a cloth tool roll to put it in, oh there was also some odd little greas gun thing the size and shape of a butane torch... and maybe something else too I can't remember but it seems that there was one more thing. matt ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com> Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 09:13:52 -0700 Subject: Re: Roll up windows,"hurricane blast" From: Sski3 <Sski3@aol.com> Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 17:13:26 EDT Subject: Roll up windows,"hurricane blast" >Last year I got tired of all the heat in the LR,so I picked up a 12V fan from a bus in a junk yard,wired it in and to a switch and bingo! Now I can move the heat out or set the direction of the fan on my feet where the heat is. Maybe this will help. One of the first "modifications" I made to my new Series III after taking delivery in 1973 was to mount a 12-volt fan in the upper right corner of the cab. The fan came with a bracket that I attached to the trim strip that covers the joint between the windshield top and the roof. I aimed it acorss to the driver's position and wired it to a switch on the panel. I ordered a tropical roof on my Land Rover, so it never really got hot inside (this was in Hawaii), but it did get a bit stuffy, and I like having a breeze on my when I'm driving. The fan fit the bill perfectly. You can see the same idea in the cabs of many semi-tractors. Now that I live in Seattle, I don't need the fan so I took it out but I left the bracket in place just in case. I also lengthened the vent hole in the decorative interior panel for the right bulkhead vent soon after taking delivery of the Series III. For whatever reason, Land Rover made the hole relatively small; with careful cutting it can be made almost twice as long which admits a lot more air to the right side of the cab. __________________ C. Marin Faure faurecm@halcyon.com marin.faure@boeing.com (original owner) 1973 Land Rover Series III-88 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com> Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 09:26:37 -0700 Subject: Re: Fluids Weight Choices From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se> Date: Thu, 09 Apr 1998 09:56:14 +0200 Subject: Re: Fluids Weight Choices >I dont know about your Power Punch but I have just purchased a tube of STP Gearbox Oil additive. It is Zinkdialcylditiophosphate 1-5% in Mineral oil. I am going to use it to reduce whining in my transferbox. I havn¥t tested it yet so I cant tell if it works. Does the list have experiance of this I use Power Punch, a transmission oil additive designed for semi-tractors, in the transfer case of my Series III. It's not a good idea to use slippery additives in the transmission as I've been told it can affect the operation of the syncro rings. But while the additives probably reduce friction in the transfer case, I have never noticed any decrease of gear noise. Others may have had a different experience. __________________ C. Marin Faure faurecm@halcyon.com marin.faure@boeing.com (original owner) 1973 Land Rover Series III-88 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: DONOHUE PE <DONOHUEPE@aol.com> Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 12:55:33 EDT Subject: Parts Car On Tue, 07 Apr 1998, Peter Ogilvie wrote: "The rear tub is still a monument in my back yard." Has it been stood on end to house statues of the Wilkes brothers? This is the usual fate of old bathtubs in the more religious neighborhoods around here where they become a shrine to Our Lady of the Bath. I once bought a parts car for $200, a RHD 109 regular with no top and a dead transmission. Kept it for a couple of years and sold it for three reasons: 1. The things that broke on my 109 were also broken on the parts car. 2. Things needing frequent replacement can usually be found as new spares. 3. I had no place to store it. Today, I am sorry I let it go, all it needed was a top, transmission rebuild and a bit of shipfitting and I would have slow safe car for one of the kids. Bienvenidos a Luis. Recuerdos, Paul Donohue 1965 RHD Dormobile Denver ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: DONOHUE PE <DONOHUEPE@aol.com> Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 12:57:56 EDT Subject: Land Rovers as Fashionable On Tue, 7 Apr 1998 Luis Manuel Gutierrez questioned the value of the LR as "Fashionable" For many years, US Embassies drove the Checker Marathon intending them to be an automotive fashion non-statement. It was a statement nonetheless. Driving a Land Rover makes a very strong statement. It says you are unique, independent minded, ready for anything and definitely not one of the herd. You are what you drive. Paul Donohue 1965 Land Rover Dormobile ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ASFCO@worldnet.att.net Date: Thu, 09 Apr 1998 13:07:54 -0400 Subject: Re: Land Rovers as Fashionable DONOHUE PE wrote: > Driving a Land Rover makes a very strong statement. It says you are unique, > independent minded, ready for anything and definitely not one of the herd. > Unless you are in South Hampton Long Island then it is a must have 'cause there it IS a fashion statement. Rgds Steve ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com> Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 13:12:54 -0500 (EST) Subject: wiring a delco alternator I am in the process of building a harness for my new Delco alternator, but I have two posts one of which is remote sense, and the charge warning light. They are helpfully labled 1 and 2. Which is which? thanks David ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 14:34:54 -0400 Subject: Re: wiring a delco alternator If you bought the plug to go with it, then the lightbulb is the smaller white wire and the sense is the larger red one. If you didn't get back to me and I'll have a look at mine. ajr ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com> Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 13:47:04 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: wiring a delco alternator On Thu, 9 Apr 1998 Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com wrote: > If you bought the plug to go with it, then the lightbulb is the smaller > white wire and the sense is the larger red one. The plug I bought has a smaller black and a larger red wire.It makes sense for sense to be somewhat heavier gauge than IND. Thanks, David > If you didn't get back to me and I'll have a look at mine. > ajr ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: DONOHUE PE <DONOHUEPE@aol.com> Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 15:03:09 EDT Subject: Translations on Wed, 08 Apr 1998 Adrian Redmond wrote: "I just tried to tranmslate Pauls letter - to german to english to french to english to german and back to english - and it ended up like this: If you like to have really something recreation, translate one stereotypes well-known far party (a song functions well), of English (or no matter what) with another language, and then with this output, you again translate them with English. Some the outputs of locking can be hilarious." Sounds like the literature from some Japanese eletronics maker, or instructions for German cars back in the early sixties. Tak Paul 1965 LR 109 ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com> Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 15:11:21 EDT Subject: Re: Tires for Series LR In a message dated 4/9/98 12:10:14 PM, you wrote: >I also run >inner tubes in my tires even though they don't need them. I've had a >tubeless tire loose it's seal on the rim and go flat on a rough logging >road; the tube keeps that from happening. I've got to agree with that. I had tubes in the OEM Michelin X-4x4 tires that came with the truck. I put on 4 BFG Trac Edges (supposedly tubeless) and regret not putting tubes in them. I just stopped by a Michelin dealer to order some Michelin inner tubes. ;-) They go in ASAP. -pat 93 110 ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com> Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 15:17:50 EDT Subject: Re: What's in an original LR tool kit? In a message dated 4/9/98 12:26:10 PM, you wrote: >oh there was also some odd >little greas gun thing the size and shape of a butane torch... >and maybe something else too I can't remember but it seems that there was >one more thing. >matt An AA (or AAA) road service membership card perhaps? ;-) ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com> Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 15:22:50 EDT Subject: Re: Land Rovers as Fashionable Embassy Cars In a message dated 4/9/98 1:04:25 PM, you wrote: >For many years, US Embassies drove the Checker Marathon intending them to be >an automotive fashion non-statement. It was a statement nonetheless. The British Embassy in Cairo has (maybe had by now) some sharp looking 110s. They were blue with tan roofs. Saw a pair by the pyramids. pat 93 "not-so-sharp" 110 ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com> Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 15:36:51 EDT Subject: Re: Land Rovers as Fashionable/satirical In a message dated 4/9/98 1:04:25 PM, you wrote: >Driving a Land Rover makes a very strong statement. It says you are unique, >independent minded, ready for anything and definitely not one of the herd. And have resources to apply to upkeep, and usually a second vehicle, if not a primary vehicle. >You are what you drive. Or push. Driving a Yugo makes a very strong statement... Driving a diesel makes a very black cloud... and a long trip... Driving a (Beluga) Black anything with Hellas all over makes one hell of a statement... Driving a New Beetle says you rushed out to get one... Driving a Ford... makes a strong statement about your need for quality, or lack thereof... pat 93 110 ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Solihull <Solihull@aol.com> Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 16:19:23 EDT Subject: You are what you drive, was LRs as Fashionable/satirical >From the LRO list, 10-22-96: ================================ ---- You Are What You Drive (unabridged version) ---- Acura Integra - I have always wanted to own the Buick of sports cars Acura Legend - I'm too bland for German cars Acura NSX - I am impotent Chevrolet Camaro - I enjoy beating the hell out of people Chevrolet Chevette - I like seeing people's reactions when I tell them I have a 'Vette Chevrolet Corvette - I'm in a mid-life crisis Chevrolet El Camino - I am leading a militia to overthrow the government Chrysler Cordoba - I dig the rich Corinthian leather Datsun 280Z - I have a kilo of cocaine in my wheel well Dodge Dart - I teach third grade special education and I voted for Eisenhower Dodge Daytona - I delivered pizza for four years to get this car Ferrari Testarossa - I am known to prematurely ejaculate Ford Fairmont - (See Dodge Dart) Ford Mustang - I slow down to 85 in school zone Ford Crown Victoria - I enjoy having people slow to 55mph and change lanes when I pull up behind them Geo Storm - I will start the 11th grade in the fall. Geo Tracker - I will start the 12th grade in the fall. Honda del Sol - I have always said, half a convertible is better than no convertible at all Honda Civic - I have just graduated and have no credit Honda Accord - I lack any originality and am basically a lemming. Infiniti Q45 - I am a physician with 17 malpractice suits pending. Isuzu Impulse - I do not give a damn about J.D. Power or his reports. Jaguar XJ6 - I am so rich I will pay 60K for a car that is in the shop 280 days per year. Kia Sephia - I learned nothing from the failure of Daihatsu Corp. Lamborghini Countach - I only have one testicle Lincoln Town Car - I live for bingo and covered dish suppers Mercury Grand Marquis - (See above) Mercedes 500SL - I will beat you up if you ask me for an autograph Mercedes 560SEL - I have a daughter named Bitsy and a son named Cole Mazda Miata - I do not fear being decapitated by an eighteen- wheeler MGB - I am dating a mechanic Mitsubishi Diamante - I don't know what it means either Nissan 300ZX - I have yet to complete my divorce proceedings. Oldsmobile Cutlass - I just stole this car and I'm going to make a fortune off the parts Peugeot 505 Diesel - I am on the EPA's Ten Most Wanted List Plymouth Neon - I sincerely enjoy doing the Macarena Pontiac Trans AM - I have a switchblade in my sock Porsche 911 Turbo - I have a three inch thingie Porsche 944 - I am dating big haired women that otherwise would be inaccessible to me Saturn SC2 - (See Honda Civic) Subaru Legacy - I have always wanted a Japanese car even more inferior than Isuzu Toyota Camry - I am still in the closet Volkswagon Beetle - I still watch Partridge Family reruns [ truncated by lro-lite (was 14 lines)] Ford Aspire - I aspire to one day have a real car Volvo 850 Sedan - I want safety with that element of risk to other drivers Volkswagon Jetta - I am a health fanatic The Delorean - I love Hollywood and cocaine Any Minivan - I don't pay attention to where I drive Any Full-size van - I am Mormon and my 12 children are God's gift to this heathen world Volkswagon Ghia - I am poor, but I have class BMW 318i - I want to be cool, but can't afford it [ truncated by lro-lite (was 7 lines)] BMW 740 - I have too much money, look at me BMW 850 - I am 45, divorced, and looking for an 18 year old nymphomaniac Pontiac Bonaventure - I am a die-hard trekkie and bought the car because Patrick Stewart does the ad Ford Pinto - I bought the car for $100 and have a $1M life policy Infiniti J30 - I am label conscious and am willing to pay $8000 more for a Maxima with an Infiniti label Cadillac Seville - I bought this car with 300 hp to block (w/Northstar Engine) traffic during rush hour Any Saturn - I hate haggling and am willing to overpay 14% Peugeot - I am weird Renault - I am weird and poor Citreon - I am weird, poor, and French Cheers!! John (saves everything) Dillingham near Canton, GA KF4NAS LROA #1095 SoLaRoS #23 73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy" 72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1 ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@primail.pr.cyanamid.com> Date: Thu, 9 Apr 98 17:22:45 EDT Subject: Re: What's in an original LR tool kit? Nate asks: *** Hi all, I was cleaning up some of the bits around the Roverhood and found tucked into a rotting seatbox tool/battery box a set of rusty tools in a heavy canvas like pouch. I am curious if this is an original tool kit. It contains pliers, an odd looking adjustable wrench like tool (almost like calipers) and an assortment of open box wrenches which are rather rusty but do say "Made in England" on the handle. Anyone know about this type of tool kit? *** Most of the original kits I've seen were heavy burlap, not canvas, but these would all be SIIa and before so it could well have changed. The odd looking adjustable wrench like tool that looks like calipers is DEFINATELY part of your original kit (ferget the name of it, though) and I'd suspect anything with "Made in England" on it was, too. keep it, rd/nige ps last rover I bought had a lucas light discussed recently here, too, neatly tucked into the tool kit-bonus! Look around behind yer seats and you may find all sorts of neat stuff... pps we really ought to try to assemble a complete list of original LR tools for the FAQ, eh? Maybe some pics, too. ppss you folks know how much people pay for original Jag tool kits?? just take a guess... ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com> Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 17:24:51 EDT Subject: Re: What's in an original LR tool kit? FWIW, There was a small roll of *electrical tape* (maybe lucas stipulated it should be there)and a spark plug gapper/feeler guage in the toolkit that came with my LR. Other Items: Sockets and a bar to turn them with, pliers, screwdriver handle w/inserts, *white gloves* , 4 open end metric wrenches, channel-lock pliers and a spark plug tool. The whole lot came in a plastic case that is strapped to a channel on the rear door. I think some RRs come with this kit. (Maybe Disco's too) It looks better than it is worth, actually. One of these days, I'm going to replace the tools in it with Sears stuff. Anyone know what came with the NAS D90s? How about NAS D90SWs? Some stuff is useful, the rest, useless. pat 93 110 ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 16:38:20 -0500 Subject: Tool Kit The Series tool kit included... (this may have been covered, I wasn't paying attention, sorry) Tool roll pliers (they call them combustion pliers) screwdriver (one of those reversible units) distributor screwdriver (feelergauge with a tip) Box spanner sparking plug spanner (with extension bar they call tommy bar) extension for plug spanner adjustable spanner (really funky shaped one too!) single end spanner 3/8 whit. and 5 double end spanners in various sizes (6 if you had a diesel) all rolled up in that neat little roll, cool! See ya! From: EAST COAST ROVER CO. *Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists* 21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864 207.594.8086 phone 207.594.8120 fax http://www.eastcoastrover.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com> Date: Thu, 09 Apr 1998 17:54:46 -0400 Subject: Transfer Box oil leaks Peter Thoren asks for advice re transfer box oil leaks. peter the use of a silicon gasket sealnt only on the transfer box bottom plate is unlikely to be very succesful. A major problem with the plate is that it is unlikely to be flat. When the plate develops a leak the first instinct is to tighten the fixing screws. It is easy to distort the plate around the fixing screws and thus complicate the sealing process. This can easily be determined with the use of a staright edge on the inside face of the plate. My technique is to place the edge of the plate on a solid steel backing, ( anvil, steel joist etc ) and put the ball pein end of a hammer acros the inside edge of a fixing hole, strike the head of the hammer with another hammer, thus flattening to slightly sinking the area around the hole, repeat this on all the fixing holes. Thus when a gasket and sealant are applied the plate has a good chance of sealing, if the area around the holes is slightly sunk by the hammering, it will tend to pull staright when the plate is secured. Bill Leacock ( Limey in exile ) NY USA. 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 00:14:30 +0200 Subject: Internet speeding! Believe it or not, there is a on-line site here in Denmark where you can see where in the country police radar or photo traps are in operation. It's in Danish, so its of limited interest, but it does has a certain novelty value - here's the address! www.razzia.dk funny? Adrian Redmond CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 86 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 54 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk Visit our homepages! www.channel6.dk ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@primail.pr.cyanamid.com> Date: Thu, 9 Apr 98 18:16:48 EDT Subject: Re:those mysterious white gloves Pat's 110 sports: *** WIW, There was a small roll of *electrical tape* (maybe lucas stipulated it should be there)and a spark plug gapper/feeler guage in the toolkit that came with my LR. Other Items: Sockets and a bar to turn them with, pliers, screwdriver handle w/inserts, *white gloves* , 4 open end metric wrenches, channel-lock pliers and a spark plug tool. *** the white gloves are there so's people can see you hitching a ride at night! rd/nige ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com> Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 18:45:44 EDT Subject: Re:those mysterious white gloves In a message dated 4/9/98 6:21:28 PM, you wrote: >the white gloves are there so's people can see you hitching a ride >at night! And i always thought they were so my hands wouldn't slip on the wax coat when pushing the car... Now I know why they came with RRs and the 110s! Thanks ;-) BTW, call me a wimp, but I tried pushing it once, just to see if I could. I couldn't get more than 10 feet! ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com> Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 19:57:38 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: What's in an original LR tool kit? On Thu, 9 Apr 1998, Russell G. Dushin wrote: > pps we really ought to try to assemble a complete list of original > LR tools for the FAQ, eh? Maybe some pics, too. >From _Land-Rover Series IIA Parts Catalogue, bonneted Control Models_, part number 608024, pages 08 38 and 08 39, the tool kit is part number description --------------------------------------- 2703 none (pliers) 56770 none (reversable screwdriver) 240836 Distributor screwdriver (has feeler gauge for pts) 503424 grease gun 2705 3/16 X 1/4 Whit spanner 230736 5/16 X 7/16 Whit spanner 276496 7/16 X 1/2 AF spanner 276397 5/8 X 9/16 AF spanner 277217 11/16 X 3/8 AF spanner (diesel , for dist. pump) 277320 3/8 Whit spanner 2707 none (caliper-like adjust spanner) 54485 Box spanner (no size listed) 1403 Tommy bar (fits through hole in box spanner, to turn it) 276322 Sparking plug spanner (petrol only) 276323 Extension for plug spanner 219704 Tool Rool 592214 Lifting jack, screw type 592219 Jack Rod 543301 Jack Handle 513072 Jack handle, round end (different jack) 514624 Jack handle, spade end (earlier jack) 523638 Tyre Pump, hand operated 524959 Connection for pump 562019 tyre pressure gauge 523023 Tyre pump, foot operated (optional) 218508 Starting Handle (God bless 'em) 537179 Wheel nut wrench, 59/64 AF (!!!) 569686 Wheel nut wrench, 1 1/16 AF Somehow I doubt that any of these numbers are still available. David > ppss you folks know how much people pay for original Jag tool kits?? > just take a guess... ------------------------------[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Jett.Hogger@prodigy.com (MR JOHN M ROSSI) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 21:04:33, -0500 Subject: wiring a delco alternator Check the www.vtr.org page. Tech article on this subject. JOHN ____ John Rossi ------------------------------[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net> Date: Thu, 09 Apr 1998 21:08:29 Subject: chickens >I seem to remember that this story related to the british using chickens >to test the windows on high speed trains? What else would one use a British chicken for? Is there a mad chicken disease? Would this cause chickens to fly at very high speed into train windows? Boy this could take a couple bottles of malt to decide. WELCOME LUIS FROM SAN JOSE. Jim Wolf ------------------------------[ <- Message 44 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980410 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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