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From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 08:00:00 -0400
Subject: Squealiong Brakes-a "new" idea

The following abstract of a new Bosch patent indicates that a riveted brake
lining may prevent unwanted noise.
Those 'vintage' motor manufacturers sure had some good ideas.
Toss out those high tech bonded shoes.

April 8, 1998

U.S. Patents via NewsEdge Corporation : Abstract:
A brake pad (10) having a mechanical joint formed
between a friction member (22) and a metal backing
plate (12) by a plurality of rivets (30,30' . . .
30.sup.n). Each rivet (30) has a head (36) and an
end (37) with the head (36) engaging the friction
member (22) and the end (37) engaging the backing
plate (12). During assembly of each rivet (30) with
the backing plate (22), a force is applied to the head

a die (16) and form a flattened surface. The amount
of the force applied to head (36) is limited to create
a clamping force between the head and backing
plate which holds the friction member (22) against
the backing plate (12) and yet noise developed
through vibration during a brake application is
attenuated as the friction member (22) and metal
backing plate (12) vibrate at different frequencies.

Ex Claim Text: A brake pad having a friction
member attached to a metal backing plate through
a mechanical bond by a plurality of rivets means,
the improvement comprising: each rivet in said
plurality of rivet means having a head and an end
member, said each rivet extending through a first
hole in said friction member and a second hole in
said backing plate, said end member engaging an
annular groove on a face of a die that engages said
backing plate, said head being subjected to a force
which causes said end to flow into said groove and
thereafter engage said backing plate and define a
clamping force between said head and backing
plate for holding said friction member in engagement
with said backing plate, said force be selected to
limit the said clamping force to thereafter allow said
friction member and metal backing plate to vibrate
at different rates during a brake application and
thereby attenuate the development of undesirable
noise.

Patent Number: 5730257

Issue Date: 1998 03 24

If you would like to purchase a copy of this patent,
please call MicroPatent at 800-648-6787.

------------------------------

From: Ian Otty <imo@kerridge.com>
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 98 13:24:58 BST
Subject: SER:Tyres for Series 3

I used 30 x 9.5 x 15 Yokohoma Mud Diggers (Y812) for many years on 
my SWB diesel mounted on 7 x 15" rims. These were IMHO the best off 
road tyre. They covered 40K miles before needing replacement, used 
heavily off road in all conditions & gave the series3 the edge over 
some coil sprung vehicles on lesser tyres. They had superb on road 
grip & were relatively quiet as well.

(I was hoping that LRO would include them in their recent tyre test 
- because I'm sure they would equal their winner the BFG MT)

I would be buying them now if they were still available in the UK.

I would have preferred a taller tyre though, especially when 
negotiating deep ruts but generally you have to go wider to go 
higher & 9.5 - 10.5" is as wide as you can comfortably fit on a 
series vehicle.

I have just purchased a set of 33" x 12.5 x 15 General Grabber MT's 
for my coil sprung hybrid & will be interested in comparing them to 
the Yokohama's.

PS - Bigger tyres add greater strain to your drivetrain, I broke 
several half shafts over the years whilst accelerating(!!!) away on 
dry tarmac due to the additional grip.

Ian Otty
SWB S3 hybrid (soon to be V8 powered!!!!!!)

------------------------------

From: Peter Thoren <peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Date: 	Wed, 08 Apr 1998 14:09:21 +0000
Subject: sealing up oil leaks

Dear List,

I think I got the hang of the tyre business and actually I am going to get
7.50 tyres again. Now I need to know something completely different. I have
some oil leaks , not severe but it disturbes me to see the small tracks
always left behind when parking. I have located the leaks to the
bottomplate under the transferbox and to the engine oil tray. I have
desided to take these ones off and replace the old washer with Hermatite
washer in a tube (sorry, dont know would this would be in english... hope
you know what I mean). Since this must be a very common problem for LR
owners I am sure this has been asked on the list many times before. Could
someone please give me a resume on sealing old Land Rovers up? Is it really
possible? and if so what is the best proven technique to do so?

The never ending flood of questions from,

Peter
**********************************************************
Peter Thoren
1975 series 3 109" Stw Diesel
Långmyrtorp
740 20 Vänge
Sweden
peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se
**********************************************************

------------------------------

From: Bernd Jonas <Bernd.Jonas@munich.netsurf.de>
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 1998 14:47:51 +0200
Subject: Re: Galvanising old frames

Hi Adrian!
As much as i know it is not very usefull to galvanise an old frame.
The only really good way to save a frame from rust by galvanising is
absolutely direct after its fabric, because the smallest peace of rust
under the new galvan-layer would be enough for it to rudt from down
under this layer and all the money and work would be for hell.
A new gal. frame would be about 730 engl. Pounds for a ´88 SWB frame.
Hope this helps.

Bye

Bernd Jonas
At now no LR, but always searching for a good ´88 or def 90!

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Tue, 07 Apr 1998 21:10:34 +0200
Subject: Re: Galvanising old frames

My 88" is now almost totally broken apart as part of the firewall
rebuild.

I am considering going the whole hog and having the chassis galvanised
(by hot dipping) but I haven't yet found a company in Denmark which does
this.

------------------------------

From: nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 1998 08:56:13 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: SER:Tyres for Series 3

Has anyone tried 33*9.5*15?
they are supposed to fit 7" rims or so my tire books say...

matt nelson

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 08:54:23 -0400
Subject: Re: sealing up oil leaks

Honestly, my first thought here is "Good luck..."

Seiously, though, I wouldn't use the goop-in-a-tube here. Proper gaskets
for these bits are very inexpensive, and can be had from any LR parts
dealer.

That said, I am not above using a product such as you mention to cement the
gasket onto the cover or sump, both for sealing and to hold it in place
when reinstalled.

The secret to sealing a joint like this is threefold:

1. Cleanliness will get you a good seal - thoroughly scrape all the mating
surfaces of old gasket and sealer, then wipe them down with a solvent to
remove small particles that might be left behind.

2. A warped pan will not seal. Make sure the cover or pan edges are not
warped from over-torquing of the bolts. If so, a bit of gentle flat-filing
with a fine file is in order to take the lumps down. If it's not flat, it
won't seal. Use a metal straightedge to check for this.

3. dont' overtorque the fasteners. Tighter is not better with gaskets.

3A. A bit of sealer on one surface (usually the removable bit, not the
block) is a good idea.

This is my regimen, and it usually works well. Good luck!

                    ajr/ mr. Churchill

------------------------------

From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 06:16:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Rochester carburettor jet data

There has ben some talk about redrilling jets and I'd like to point out a
few pitfalls in this. Most jets are not just a hole in a piece of brass.
Often, these orfices are tapered or countoured in some way. If you drill a
straight hole, the fuel flow is disrupted and you can end up with new
problems. You can read about this stuff in any number of in-depth books on
carburetion.

        Jim Allen

------------------------------

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From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 07:38:59 -0500
Subject: RE: Indicator stalk

I can imagine the change you mention can be easy and cheap, up in the UK!
For example: I have never ever even seen a Austin-Rover Metro.
Bad for me!

ps.Thank you, Mike.

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From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 07:48:51 -0500
Subject: RE: Roll up (or down) the spark plugs?

Keeping warm in Costa Rica is no big deal. Well, it also depends on =
where you go, there are also some cold places, but not even close to =
your kind of cold.
I will follow the procedure recomended! :-)
I'll keep you informed of the progress!!

--

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From: b.boehlers@olsy.dk (Bent Boehlers)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 15:52:31 +0200
Subject: RE: Galvanizing old frames

Bernd Jonas[SMTP:Bernd.Jonas@munich.netsurf.de] wrote:
 A new gal. frame would be about 730 engl. Pounds for a =B488 SWB frame.

I think that Adrian did not make it quite clear, the problem is related =
to the DANISH government.
The taxrules says, that if You swap the frame, it is a major rebuild, =
and not only a repair. Then the car have to go into the system as a new =
one, and Danish tax is horrible for cars. It would probably cost Adrian =
from 900 to 1600 GBP depending on the car, is it with rear seats, =
hardtop, pickup or open.

Therefore the Danes use a lot of money to repair frames, instead of =
making a swap.

Happy Rovering

Bent Boehlers

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------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 09:55:27 -0400
Subject: RE: Galvanizing old frames

Galvanizing Old Danes...sounds painful actually.

As far as the process of regalvanizing, it's been done on older frames in
good shape. If I had a frame in decent shape, a good cleanup and stripping,
repairs as needed and a dipping would be high on my list for long-term
"keeper" value.

The pre-cleaning processes for hot-dip galvanizing will deal with any
incidental rust. Supposedly paint's not an issue either, but I think a good
internal power-washing of the frame, as well as opening up vent holes in a
BIG way to allow for metal ingress and outgassing would be in order.

In short - do it!

               aj"Anything to keep 'em on the road...."r

------------------------------

From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 08:17:34 -0500
Subject: Tires for Series LR

As I have mentioned before, I'm just begining to learn about LRs.
I was concerned about the tire size to use, since the ones that are usually fit 
here in LRs
practically dont deserve to be called tires! (too skinny and short) They look 
awfull.
I asked for sizes and prices this week. The best deal I found was for 235/85-16 
tires (a corean brand), about U$160 each. 
My doubt resides on wether the taller tires will be a minus on acceleration, I 
guess so. It supposedly should compensate on the highway and offroad. 
Am I right, wrong, both, crazy, all of the above, or something else? :-]

------------------------------

From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 1998 10:19:53 -0400
Subject: Lamp socket

Steve Irwin wrote:

>While we're at it, doe s anybody *ever* find a use for the +/- 12 
>volt power ports on the dash of a series 3?

These make a handy point to plug in trouble lights.  My choice is a 12"
fluorescent tube, but to be truly "original" you may be able to source some
of the old Lucas work lights.  These are brass, egg- or eliptical-shaped,
with a cage over one end and an enclosed spool to wind up the wire on the
other, already fitted with the "bananna" plug.  I think they went out of
production in the early fifties.  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 21:59:44 -0700
Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Re:_Diesel_or_petrol_what=B4s_best.?=

Dear B,H.,

My recomendation would be to look for a 300d from a used or juncked Merc.
One culd build the necessary bell housing out of one of the engines you
have. This would give you the advantage of diesel economics but the power of
a more modern engine.

I've done some preliminary investigation here in the states and plan to
upgrade my SIII 2.25 D once the engine getts older.

Good luck.

John

------------------------------

From: Jacobs Johan <XY14449@exchange.oldmutual.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 16:38:38 +0200
Subject: Santana with Roll down Windows.

In South Africa the Santana is often referred to as the R6 and a friend
of mine has one with roll down windows.

I often thought that they were aftermarket fitted, but where there is a
myth, there is fire or should it rather be where there is smoke.........

Johan Jacobs
Webmaster
Cape Land Rover Club
Cape Town 
South Africa
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/speedway/5382
johanj@yebo.co.za

------------------------------

From: "Steve Mace" <steve@solwise.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 15:33:02 +0000
Subject: RE: Galvanizing old frames

> From:          Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
> Reply-to:      lro@playground.sun.com
> To:            lro@playground.sun.com
> X-To:          lro@playground.sun.com
> Date:          Wed, 8 Apr 1998 09:55:27 -0400
> Subject:       RE: Galvanizing old frames

> Galvanizing Old Danes...sounds painful actually.
> As far as the process of regalvanizing, it's been done on older frames in
> good shape. If I had a frame in decent shape, a good cleanup and stripping,
> repairs as needed and a dipping would be high on my list for long-term
> Date:          Wed, 8 Apr 1998 09:55:27 -0400
> Subject:       RE: Galvanizing old frames

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> repairs as needed and a dipping would be high on my list for long-term
> "keeper" value.

Have you read the latest letter in LROI about gavlenising frames? 
There is a letter there from an ex LR employee that says you must 
take great care that the frame doesn't twist or warp when galvenised. 
Apparently LR looked at the idea of galvenised frames a few years 
back but dropped it because of these problems.
Steve Mace

1972 SIII LtWt
1993 D90
In the UK
-------------------------------------
Name: Dr Steve Mace
E-mail: steve@solwise.demon.co.uk
www: http://www.demon.co.uk/solwise/
Tel: +44 1482 473899
Fax: +44 1482 472245
-------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: nlamon1@tiger.lsuiss.ocs.lsu.edu
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 09:51:47 -0500
Subject: BIENVENIDO A LUIS

Luis, bienvenido a esta lista:

(Los siento pero con esta programma no es posible para hacer las marcas de
puntuacion.)

Si, conosco su pais bien.  Actualmente, vivia por un rato en Sabanilla, en
una casa locada arriba la mercado La Cosecha.  ?Conoce esta mercado?
(Esta en la ruta del autobus a Sabanilla.)  Y tambien, vivia en una casa
pequena....muy pequena....barrio Las Palmas cerca de El Alto en Guadelupe.

Fui alli para incorporarme con el Colegio Federado de Ingenieros y
Arquitectos...pero eso es otra historia.  ?Usted es abogado, si?  Hmmmmm
Posiblemente, escribire a usted directo sobre mis experiencias con la
gobierno....

Si la tierra alli es bonito.   ?Que,  Trabaja con/para el Ministerio del
Turismo?  

La pregunta de su esposa sobre las ruidas es interesante.  Digale que la
problema no es la caro pero la profession (!Calmase!  !Es una chiste!)
Pero, seriosamente, ha visto la cantidad de los abogados en las paginas
amarillos de la guia de San Jose?  Hay tres por cada persona en pais!?

He sido reparando/restorando/resurectando caros viejos como una pasatiempo
desde nino, principalmente caros Ingleses.  Cuando era hijo en escuela
secundario habia un Jeep militar que me gusto mucho.  Asi, hace mas o
menos quatros anos, compro de un rustico en el norteoeste del estado de
Ohio un 1996 88" L-R para $750 y habia trasportado por camino alli.
Poco a poco, he sido reconstruiendo todas los compnentos con la meta de
conduirme por todos partes de centroamerica a posiblemente mas
alla...quien sabe, posiblemente todos hasta el Patagonia.  La cosa que
me da meida mas es la posibilidad de los banditos/guerrillas (--Hola
Gringo!  Me gusta mucha su caro....?su caro es mi caro, no?--)

Si, hay muchos Land-Rovers en Costa Rica.  La repuesta a su pregunta sobre
si $3000.00 esta barato o cara es --Dependiente en la condiccion, ?no?
Me parace que si fuera posible para exportar viejo L-R's de alli a aqui
facilmente, lo hubiera sido hecho por ahora....Que piense?

Bueno, si me gustaria preguntar preguntas sobre L-R's o cualquiera le
gustaria, mi direccion de e-mail es como sigue.

Otra vez bienvenido al mundo loco de Land-Rovers....lo que para unos es
una religion....y para otros es una enfermidad....y para los demas ambos!

Recuerdos,

Aqto. Neil Lamont, III

<nlamon1@tiger,lsu.edu>
-- 

------------------------------

From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 08:55:43 -0500
Subject: Santanas

Talking about Santanas, I saw a Series III car the other day, but it had some 
things different from the average SIII. The most noticiable were that the rear 
door was shorter, didn't went into the roof, like all others, though the roof 
didn't had an arch, but was straight, and the other thing were the hinges on 
all the doors, that were completely different, looking like house doors hinges. 
The next day I saw a photograph of a Santana and it had the same strange back 
door. 
Is this a variant propper of the Santanas, or is it just that I hadn't seen 
that variant before?

------------------------------

From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 16:05:18 +0000
Subject: Re: Lamp socket

 but to be truly "original" you may be able to source some
of the old Lucas work lights.  These are brass, egg- or eliptical-shaped,
>with a cage over one end and an enclosed spool to wind up the wire on the
>other, already fitted with the "bananna" plug.
Thanks,Sandy,that reminds me.....my old man's got one of those.Now where
did I see it last........

Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: "Huub Pennings" <hps@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 17:09:26 +0100
Subject: RE: Galvanizing old frames

In rebuilding process I'm in I do consider this option, My main 
worry is how to get the paint and rust out of the inside of the 
frame. I can't find a galvanizing company in Holland which can strip 
and clean the inside, and I think it is only worth while if you can 
get the inside galvanized as well!

Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

------------------------------

From: Jacobs Johan <XY14449@exchange.oldmutual.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 17:21:49 +0200
Subject: Slide Windows VS Roll Down Windows

I have a 1982 Series III and in the Africa temperatures the heat inside
the cab is like an oven. A while ago I took all the doors off and
stripped them and had them galvanised.

During the refitting process I installed two door hinges between the top
half and the bottom half of the two front doors. I also installed two
clips on the inside of each door to keep the top half upright. The clips
are of the type commonly fitted to hold a canopy down on the pack of a
pick up.

Now if I want a little air, I open the sliding window. When I want a lot
of air, I loosen the two clips and fold the complete door top outwards.
It then hangs down the side of the door while I drive. I have installed
some stoppers to keep the door top from bouncing around.

When on Safari in the Africa bush and we are driving slowly, I open the
door tops to allow a wide area for photography. The hinges were
extremely easy to install and it works very well. The only mistake I
made was the use of Aluminium rivits to hold the hinges in place. They
came undone with extended gravel road travel with the door tops folded
down. I still need to replace the rivits with steel rivits.

A further modification was to install Series II style roof vents in the
two front doors. These are located in the lower door section and open
forward. It then channels air to the feet area that gets so hot. Just
remember to close them when going through water or mud.

If anybody would like some gifs or jpg's of the completed modifications,
e-mail me direct at johanj@yebo.co.za.

Johan Jacobs
Cape Land Rover Club
Cape Town
South Africa
johanj@yebo.co.za

------------------------------

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From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 09:21:52 -0500
Subject: RE: BIENVENIDO A LUIS

Hola.
Si conosco La Cosecha. Estuve en un Colegio que estaba en Sabanilla, y pasaba 
por ahi todos los dias.
Si hay demasiados abogados, tienes razon.
Trabajo en una empresa constructora, es algo relacionado con tu linea de 
trabajo tambien.
I can tell you I love Land Rovers, and I love cars. Mechanics have been always 
my hobby. And findding this Mailing List has been great.
Thank you for your welcome message!!

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------------------------------

From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 1998 11:15:33 -0700
Subject: Re: BIENVENIDO A LUIS

nlamon1@tiger.lsuiss.ocs.lsu.edu wrote:

>Hola Gringo! .
Hmmm Neil, I think there's something wrong with your keyboard! ;-)
>.
Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: Orin Harding <orin@deltacp.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 11:10:11 -0400
Subject: RE: Speedometer Error Formulas

***Note correction in line 10.  I had shown B8*B9 but it should be B8/B9. 
 Sorry for the confusion this may have caused and thanks to Dave Brown for 
pointing out the error****

------------------------------

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From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 09:31:50 -0500
Subject: RE: BIENVENIDO A LUIS

Looks like writing nonsense?
;-)

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------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 11:27:09 -0400
Subject: Re: 235/85 - 16s

These are the tyres I run on my 109. As far as diameter, they're markedly
the same height as the original 7.50 x 16 originally on it, but with a
wider tread.

They work great, with the only disadvantage being close-quarters
maneuvering because of the bigger footprint.

If you have the rims for them (the 272309 I believe, but don't quote me),
then they're a great tyre.

                    ajr/ Mr. Churchill

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 1998 17:31:52 +0200
Subject: Re: Galvanizing old frames

I like the idea of galvanising, but I am not sure whether a "acid bath"
dip wil remove the crud and old tectyl (waxoyl stuff) from the indise of
the frame - does anyone have experience of this? I guess a major part
may be "burned up in the galvanising process.

The question is - how does one make sure that the inside is ok - unlike
my sweather, it can't be turned inside out.

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 98 11:31:27 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Galvanizing old frames

>In rebuilding process I'm in I do consider this option, My main 
>worry is how to get the paint and rust out of the inside of the 
>frame. I can't find a galvanizing company in Holland which can 
>strip and clean the inside, and I think it is only worth while if 
>you can get the inside galvanized as well!

If you can get the frame up on one end, you should be able to hose it out with 
a power washer, and poke around any really bad areas. The acid bath at the 
galvanisers is about 900 degrees f. and will fill up the frame with acid. This 
should quickly remove the thin coating of paint left inside the frame. You may 
want to drill some strategically placed holes to allow the acid as well as the 
zinc bath to flow in easily, and also to drain sonce any acid left insode can 
cause problems. The holes will also allow you to clean it out good befor eyou 
send it off. Make sure you make them a good size so that you can get a power 
wash nozzle or garden hose in, but also pick the size to match a readily 
available plastic plug to cover these holes during everyday use. As for frame 
bushings, you will need to burn out the rubber part beforehand, but leave the 
outside metal in place. When it comes back from the galvanisers, use the air 
chisel/socket technique to pop the remains out. Otherwise if you let the inside 
of the hole fill with zinc then it will be too small. I would not worry about 
warping, the rover frame is very thick and structurally sound, and will not 
warp at the temperatures involved in galvanising. I belive this temeperature is 
also around 900 degrees f.  
The aforementioned holes will help with this too, keeping the pressure down 
inside the members. Totally or nearly totally enclose dstructures will likely 
explode if the air inside is subjected to that kind of heat, but the frame 
rails are already full of holes.
good luck, let us know how it goes.
DaveB

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 1998 17:40:21 +0200
Subject: A head for figures? help?

I am sorry that this both off-topic and a repeat of a previous mail from
last september, but I have lost the many original replies.

I am translating a long document with lots of statistics in imperial
measures, which now must be expressed in metric.

I am making a small excel-spreadsheet to use as a ready reckoner, but am
in need of a few formula, which I cannot find or remember - can anyone
help?

May I put it this way...

Cell B9 is a figure in acres,
what is the formula to calculate hectares from B9?

(like =B9/0.27373 or whatever)

B11 is the figure in miles,
what is formula for kilomtres?

B13 is ounces,
what is formula for grammes?

B15 is pounds,
what is formula for kilogrammes?

B17 is imperial tons
what is formula for metric tonnes?

B19 is US gallons
what is formula for litres?

B21 is barrel (of crude oil)
what is formula for litres?

B23 is Fahrenheit
what is formula for celcius/centigrade?

Is there anyone out there with 12 fingers and 10 toes who can perform
these conversions? Thanks a bundle if you can!

-- 
Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: "Jason B. Carroll" <carrollj@up.edu>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 08:46:30 -0700
Subject: RE: Roll up (or down) windows

FWIW. Some friends of mine have replaced the doortops of their Series II 
& IIa with new Defender 90 door tops with sliding windows. Looks nice and 
works sharp.

--Jason

On 4/8/98 1:37 AM , Duncan Phillips wrote-

>While we're on the subject of defender doors......in the older doors (with
>the sliding windows) was the door top still separate??....I'm about to
>replace a door top on my SIII and was impressed by the rigidity of the
>one-piece D90 door, but I don't like the up/down windows
>cheers

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)]
>*******************************
>Big Bad n' Blue

------------------------------

From: "Herman L. Stude" <hermans@krts.com>
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 1998 10:44:29 -0500
Subject: Foot Vents

All;

> A further modification was to install Series II style roof vents in the
> two front doors. These are located in the lower door section and open
> forward. It then channels air to the feet area that gets so hot. Just
> remember to close them when going through water or mud.

Anyone else ever try this, sounds like a neat mod for us who live in the
heat.  Wouldn't want to copy To**ta FJ-40's though.

Herman

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 12:25:55 EDT
Subject: Fwd: Land Rover's 'JAMES' is First Fully Integrated Satellite...

Do you think I could retrofit this to the SIIa?
Nate

--part0_892052756_boundary
Content-ID: <0_892052756@inet_out.mail.aol.com.2>
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

Land Rover's 'JAMES' is First Fully Integrated Satellite Navigation System for
a Sport Utility

NEW YORK, April 8 /PRNewswire/ --  Land Rover vehicles have always had the
capability to take their occupants far off the beaten path.  Now JAMES
(Journey Assistance and Mapping Exploration System), the new GPS satellite
navigation package offered by Land Rover, provides drivers with a personal
guide to their destinations, wherever those destinations may be in the
continental United States.  With JAMES, arriving at any location is a
pleasurable, easy and -- most importantly -- a safe experience.

JAMES will be available in May 1998 on new 1998 Range Rovers, with an MSRP of
$2,890.00.  This price includes two regional CD-ROM map discs and the first
two map updates in six months.

The comprehensive computerized navigation system uses four to eight global
positioning satellites at any one time to determine the exact location of the
vehicle, and is accurate to within 10 yards.

JAMES features scaleable maps, turn-by-turn directions and audible commands
spoken with a distinctly British accent and personality.  One touch of a
button allows missed instructions to be repeated.  Fully integrated into the
dashboard fascia, JAMES is simple to use, with a single turn-and-push knob for
all driver input selections.

Drivers have four options when selecting JAMES' satellite-guided route plan,
allowing a choice of optimal travel time, shortest distance and either most or
least frequently used roads.  Should the driver divert from the original
route, JAMES will automatically recalculate its directions, based on the
vehicle's new position.  Or, by pushing one button, the driver can opt for
JAMES to select a one- to six-mile intentional detour around the planned
route.

Adjusting the map scale from 400 feet to 50 miles, drivers can choose between
a turn-by-turn pictogram guidance screen or a map overlay of the entire
surrounding area.  Not only does JAMES display the name of the road currently
being traveled and the titles of approaching streets, but the system can also
be asked to provide information and directions to more that 400,000 points of
interest, including the nearest hotels, gas stations, banks, hospitals,
restaurants and ATMs.

In the event that help is needed, JAMES is equipped to display an emergency
screen showing the vehicle's precise location.  This screen displays the
street name (if on a digitized road) and GPS coordinates.  The driver can then
relay this information to either Land Rover's 24-Hour Road Recovery (SM)
network or the appropriate emergency services.

Regional maps for the 48 contiguous states are contained on seven CD-ROM discs
that can be kept in the cargo area storage unit for use when driving away from
home.

Land Rover North America, Inc., is a member of the Rover Group of Companies,
importing vehicles manufactured by Land Rover, Solihull, England. The Rover
Group is a wholly owned subsidiary of the BMW Group, Munich, Germany.

SOURCE  Land Rover North America, Inc.

CO:  Land Rover North America, Inc.

ST:  Maryland, New York

IN:  AUT

SU:  PDT

04/08/98 11:37 EDT http://www.prnewswire.com

To edit your profile, go to keyword <A HREF="aol://1722:NewsProfiles">
NewsProfiles</A>.
For all of today's news, go to keyword <A HREF="aol://1722:News">News</A>.

--part0_892052756_boundary--

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 17:33:54 +0100
Subject: Re: Fwd: Land Rover's 'JAMES' is First Fully Integrated Satellite

>JAMES features scaleable maps, turn-by-turn directions and audible
commands
>spoken with a distinctly British accent and personality.  One touch of a

Typical!

All the electronic spoken things over here have American accents - and you
guys get British accents!

As for increased safety:  What, watching the screen whilst driving?  :-)
Hmmm....

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR - no GPS or cellphone)

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 98 12:32:14 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Galvanizing old frames

>I like the idea of galvanising, but I am not sure whether a "acid bath" 
>dip wil remove the crud and old tectyl (waxoyl stuff) from the indise 
>of the frame - does anyone have experience of this? I guess a major 
>part may be "burned up in the galvanising process.

I am pretty sure they hot tank it just like engine parts before machining. Mine 
(ctylinder head) was free of all of the paint gunk and rust that was previously 
attached to it.

i could be wrong. 
But not likely
DaveB

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 09:56:33 -0700 
Subject: Translating Spanish Posts. (No L-R)

Luis Writes:
	Looks like writing nonsense?
	;-)

I just copied your post to my clipboard and went to:
http://babelfish.altavista.digital.com/cgi-bin/translate? and pasted it
in.
Then hit the >Spanish to English< button and that's it!  Not perfect but
it makes some sense.

If you really want to have some fun, translate a well known phrase (a
song works well) from English (or whatever) to another language, and
then using that output, translate it back to English.  Some of the final
outputs can be hilarious.

ie.

It seems to me, you lived your life like a candle in the wind.

becomes

Se parece a mí, usted vivió su vida como una vela en el viento.

Which then becomes:

It is looked like me, you you lived its life as a candle in the wind.

Yes, sometimes I get board at work...

Paul.

------------------------------

From: Elwyny <Elwyny@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 12:56:39 EDT

 

------------------------------

From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 12:58:09 -0400
Subject: re: The Journey of Tigger (No rover content now though)

Russ "Maestro" Wilson opines:
>Jeff, I thought you only listened to crappy 70's rock..Jimmy Buffett etc...
>It's nice to see that you also are a connoisseur of crappy 80's rock as
>well.

Technically Juice Newton's genre would be "Crappy 80's Country-Rock." Don't
mess with me on music trivia. ;-)

j "Dad said with at income level I should start buying CD's" ab

==
Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
	I believe in heavy thinking, I believe in heavy sound,
	I believe in heavy images, To hold it all down.
				--Chris Smither, Happier Blue

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 10:02:47 -0700 
Subject: RE: Galvanizing old frames

Adrian Writes:
	>I like the idea of galvanising, but I am not sure whether a
"acid bath"
	dip wil remove the crud and old tectyl (waxoyl stuff) from the
indise of
	the frame - does anyone have experience of this? I guess a major
part
	may be "burned up in the galvanising process.<

I acid bathed (Redi Strip) my bulkhead and radiator panel last winter
and was very happy with the results.  This process removes everything
except very heavy undercoating, and it gets both the inside and outside
of whatever you clean.

Once the process is complete, you must prime or paint the metal as it
will begin to rust again right away!

Paul Quin
1961 Series II under construction & on the web at:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/
Victoria, BC  Canada

------------------------------

From: Matthew James Moore <mjm@unr.edu>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 10:45:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Santanas

Luis,
	The shape of the rear door and the door hinges are a couple of the
minor changes in Santana built Land Rovers.  At first glance most look
just like any other series vehicle but if you look carefully there are
some other small changes.  Most parts are the same though, so getting
replacements is not a problem.

Matt Moore
Ser III 88' Santana

------------------------------

From: Michael Fredette <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 10:46:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Old news? 101 for sale

Mark writes,
 
 I haven't been keeping up with the list lately so I apologize if this is old
 news, but I found that Lionheart Vehicles, a British MV dealer-type has a 101
 listed at US$ 11,000, with Oregon title.
 He's Greg Cash at 541 946 1611, e-mail at milveh@aol.com.
 
Mark, 

   Yes this is somewhat old news, and also somewhat inaccurate. Greg can GET
a 101, but he doesn't HAVE a 101, and the price may or may not be real. He 
brought one in 3 years ago, but it took him a year and half to sell it because 
his price was ridiculous. How do I know you ask, cause I bought the 101 from 
him :^) It has been a huge project to restore, but worth it I think. You should
see some pictures of it in the next Rover's North newletter thingy, in fact, if
you look at the back cover of the current issue, there is a "coming attractions"
blurb about "Eye on Portland", that's my 101. Anyway, Greg Cash was OK to deal
with, but it would take quite a while to get a 101 over here.
   
Rgds
Mike Fredette
Portland, Or.
NOW 3 X 101FC's! "ridiculous" a direct quote from my wife :^)

------------------------------

From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 14:39:20 -0400
Subject: MileMarker Winch on a IIa SWB?

Having abandoned hopes of finding a complete capstan winch, I'm now
considering a MileMarker for FINSUP. Has anyone out there installed one on
a Series beast? Or do you know anyone who has?

MileMarker recommended that I use a Saginaw PS pump--as used in GM trucks.
Are there any issues about using the pump when it's not connected to a PS
system? How would one plumb this thing together? I've found a shop to
fabricate the mount, but would be open to alternative suggestions from the
floor.

MM makes two sizes of their two speed winch. A 10,500# model and 9,000#
version. Cost difference is minimal--less than $100. Not sure what the
size/weight for each are yet--working on it. All other things being equal,
is 10.5K too much winch for an 88" frame? Should I be worried about
damaging the frame and opt for the smaller model instead?

Thanks in advance to anyone who has anything to offer on this.

RoverOn!

jab

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
	Guidance Counselor said your scores are anti-heroic.
	Computer recommends hard-drinking calypso poet.
	--Jimmy Buffett, If It All Falls Down (by Matt Betton)

------------------------------

From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 14:46:38 -0400
Subject: Your Rover HERE?

My friend Neil Hamilton, formerly of Darien Land Rover, just gave me a ring
to try and get FINSUP booked for Pepe Land Rover's (White Plains, NY)
Birthday bash on April 30. Unfortuntately, FINSUP has a prior engagement at
Darien Land Rover. (Damn truck is busier than I am!) I told Neil I'd try to
get another vehicle.

As a (Rangie Owning) friend of mine put it:

>WHAT?  He wanted to use your Rover as a prop for a party????
>They won't service it or find parts for it, but they want it to use as an
>armrest at a cocktail party?
>And they offer a tiny sandwich and a glass of bad champagne in return?
>The nerve.....

So anyone out there want to do it? No money, but there will be food.
Probably better than F*R*I*E*N*D*S that night. Maybe not more fun than
Seinfeld though...

If you're in the area and interested drop *me* (no need to bother the list)
an email. I'll put you in touch with Neil directly...

Thanks--RoverOn!

j "so many parties, so few Rovers" ab

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life,
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 1998 20:54:27 +0200
Subject: Re: Translating Spanish Posts. (No L-R)

I just tried to tranmslate Pauls letter -

If you really want to have some fun, translate a well known phrase (a
song works well) from English (or whatever) to another language, and
then using that output, translate it back to English.  Some of the final
outputs can be hilarious.

to german tyo english to french to english to german and back to english
- and it ended up like this:

If you like to have really something recreation, translate one
stereotypes well-known far party (a song functions well), of English (or
no matter what) with another language, and then with this output, you
again translate them with English. Some the outputs of locking can be
hilarious. 

I like this toy! 

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: "Chris Dillard"<cdillard@Aholdusa.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 15:03:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Translating Spanish Posts. (No L-R)

What is the website for this translating mechanism?

Thanks,

Christopher Dillard
Databse Administrator         Phone: 864-987-8633
BONUSCARD Marketing           Fax:  864-675-5456
Ahold USA (BI-LO Inc.)        E-Mail:cdillard@aholdusa.com
Greenville SC USA

------------------------------

[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- 
=_NextPart_000_01BD62EF.4E439680" ]
From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 13:07:32 -0500
Subject: RE: Santanas

I even talked to the guy who owned the car, but I think he knew less than me 
about his car.
What is pretty strage is that I foud a Santana around here, when every other 
one you see was made here. Rare find I guess.
He ofered to sell for U$3000.

[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: application/ms-tnef ]

------------------------------

[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- 
=_NextPart_000_01BD62EF.CAA41A60" ]
From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 13:10:51 -0500
Subject: RE: Translating Spanish Posts. (No L-R)

I know what you mean, Paul.
Definitely I know. :-]

[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: application/ms-tnef ]

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 12:22:32 -0700 
Subject: RE: Translating Spanish Posts. (No L-R)

	What is the website for this translating mechanism?

	http://babelfish.altavista.digital.com/cgi-bin/translate

	Paul.

------------------------------

From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 12:01:30 -0700
Subject: Re: frozen chickens and the FAA, no landrover content

From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Tue, 07 Apr 1998 08:00:28 -1000
Subject: Re: frozen chickens and the FAA, no landrover content

>The chicken story supposedly stems from testing aircraft for bird
strikes.
The US Federal Aviation Agency developed a gun device to launch fowl
into
planes at various speeds to simulate real life impact.  The brits
borrowed
it to test on some of their aircraft and were amazed at the damage
frozen
chicken carcasses caused.  Supposedly instructions to use thawed chicken
was not understood. 

The bird guns are actually built by the engine and airframe
manufacturers, not the FAA.  We (Boeing) have one that uses compressed
air to fire a bird carcass at flight deck windshield materials to test
for strength and to ensure that the windshield heating mechanism is not
damaged.  The engine manufacturers use the guns to fire birds of various
sizes into the intakes of running engines (on a test stand) to ensure
the blades do not fail, or if they do, that they remain contained inside
the nacelle.  We have super-slow-motion footage of a large bird carcass
(turkey?) being fired into the fan of a 777 engine.  The camera was
mounted directly above the fan so you can watch what happens as the
carcass goes through the blades.  There was no damage to the blades,
although the same cannot be said for the ex-bird.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 13:29:58 -0500
Subject: Translations (little LR content)

How about this one:

Hey you guys and gals, what are you trying to do with your Land Rovers?

from english to french and back:

Hé you of the types and the gallons, which do you try to make with your ground 
vagrants?

Nonsense?

------------------------------

From: "David Hope" <davidjhope@email.msn.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 11:07:27 -0500
Subject: Transmision, clutch problem

I have installed a professionally rebuilt gearbox, mated to the existing
transfer case, plus a new clutch plate and a new slave cylinder.

The engine started up on the second turn of the key after 4 weeks idle.
However, with the gear lever in neutral the geabox is in gear with drive
going through to the rear prop shaft.

I am hoping for a simple solution such as readjusting the clutch linkage.
By the way where exactly do you measure the distance between the slave
cylinder and the linkage on a 64 llA.  The book says it should be 2 7/8
inches -but from where to where?

Any advice will be appreciated.

David Hope
64 llA

------------------------------

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 14:35:14 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: MileMarker Winch on a IIa SWB?

On Wed, 8 Apr 1998, Jeffrey A. Berg wrote:

> Having abandoned hopes of finding a complete capstan winch, I'm now
 considering a MileMarker for FINSUP. Has anyone out there installed one on
> a Series beast? Or do you know anyone who has?

I thought about it for a while, but decided it was too much work, and that
an electric one would be easier.  I still haven't actually bought one
yet...

> MileMarker recommended that I use a Saginaw PS pump--as used in GM trucks.
 Are there any issues about using the pump when it's not connected to a PS
 system? How would one plumb this thing together? I've found a shop to
 fabricate the mount, but would be open to alternative suggestions from the
> floor.

That is the pump that I was going to use.  It should behave pretty well
without a power assisted steering system to drive.  Don't remember if the
GM pump has a bypass circuit built in;  if it isn't you'll need one.
Plumbing is pretty easy, as long as the runs aren't very long:  use really
high strength hoses, made up exactly the right length.  

 
> MM makes two sizes of their two speed winch. A 10,500# model and 9,000#
 version. Cost difference is minimal--less than $100. Not sure what the
 size/weight for each are yet--working on it. All other things being equal,
 is 10.5K too much winch for an 88" frame? Should I be worried about
> damaging the frame and opt for the smaller model instead?

One of these has two speeds.  Get that one.  The MileMarker one speed
winch really is one speed, load or not.  this makes retracting cable a
time-consuming process.  The two speed one can retract the cable faster.  
You are unlikely to end up with too much winch.

David

> Thanks in advance to anyone who has anything to offer on this.
> RoverOn!
> jab
> ==
>  Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
> 	Computer recommends hard-drinking calypso poet.
> 	--Jimmy Buffett, If It All Falls Down (by Matt Betton)

------------------------------

From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 1998 21:30:41 +0200
Subject: Re: Santana with Roll down Windows.

Jacobs Johan wrote:
> In South Africa the Santana is often referred to as the R6 and a 

Hey Johan what you been smokin' boet?

The only thing Santana 'bout the R6 is the gearbox, same as the 4 and 5
forward gear 110's.

Regards

Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za
http://AfricanAdrenalin.com

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 12:40:44 -0700 
Subject: RE: Transmision, clutch problem

Sounds to me like the problem lies with the shifter linkage rather than
the clutch.  I'd start trouble shooting by watching the motions of the
shafts under the gear shift lever as you switch from gear to gear.  Try
starting the truck with the TRANSFER (Hi/Low) lever in neutral.  This
should allow you to sit in one place while trouble shooting...

Paul.

------------------------------

From: Joseph Broach <broach@utkux.utcc.utk.edu>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 16:09:23 +0100
Subject: RE: Roll up (or down) windows

One option that no one has mentioned are the D90 sliding glass tops. Seems
like the best of both worlds: 1) more airflow because both front and rear
glass slide, 2) still much simpler to install/repair than rollups, 3) all
aluminum (no RUST). I think RN still sells these, anyone seen them on a
series rig?

-joseph broach
knoxville, tn
'67 IIa 88
'68 IIa 88

------------------------------

From: Eye on WX <EyeonWX@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 16:12:31 EDT
Subject: Updated

Updated and new links, new photos, graphics and news...all at Alex Cheek's
Land Rover Web! Visit it at http://members.aol.com/eyeonwx/roveron.html

Rover on,
Alex Cheek,
97 Disco LSE

------------------------------

From: Jose Luis Trisotti <jtrisott@reuna.cl>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 16:34:59 -0400
Subject: S I shock absorver

Who knows the specific number of the front and rear shock absorver for my
serie I 1953 80" . May be Monroe or other 

thanks
Jose Luis Trisotti C
jtrisott@reuna.cl
Chile

------------------------------

From: "Herman L. Stude" <hermans@krts.com>
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 1998 15:46:02 -0500
Subject: Door top posts

All;

So, if your door posts that join the door tops to the bottoms rust out
what are your options?  If you're not really into body work is it
possible to put in new posts or do you try to fit in the D90 tops.

Specifically, I'm concerned about my SIII 88 front doors.  The posts are
so rusted that I think they might break.

Thanks in advance.

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 14:02:08 -0700 
Subject: RE: Door top posts

You can get new door tops from Britain for under 20 pounds sterling per
side (unglazed).  If you're in North America, add about $50.00 per set
for shipping.

Paul.

------------------------------

From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 1998 14:04:38 -0700
Subject: !!Re: Fwd: Land Rover's 'JAMES' is First Fully Integrated Satellite

Richard Marsden wrote:

> >JAMES features scaleable maps, turn-by-turn directions and audible
> commands spoken with a distinctly British accent and personality.

> All the electronic spoken things over here have American accents - and you
> guys get British accents!

Ah.. I can hear it now.... "Home James!".. :)

cheers

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: Sski3 <Sski3@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 17:13:26 EDT
Subject: Roll up windows,"hurricane blast"

Last year I got tired of all the heat in the LR,so I picked up a 12V fan from
a bus in a junk yard,wired it in and to a switch and bingo! Now I can move the
heat out or set the direction of the fan on my feet where the heat is. Maybe
this will help.
Cheers
Steve F.
Merrimack NH
69 SIIA 88
65 SIIA 88

------------------------------

From: Luis Manuel Gutierrez <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 15:19:59 -0500
Subject: Goodbye for the Holidays (No LR content)

Well, dear list, I will have to leave you all without my questions for the next 
four days. 
Because of my bad luck, I have to go to the beach to have some fun.
I will let you know if something roverish happens. ;-)

LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ
JCCCSA Departamento Legal
lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
lgutierr@hotmail.com

------------------------------

From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 17:45:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Door top posts

>All;
>So, if your door posts that join the door tops to the bottoms rust out
>what are your options?  If you're not really into body work is it
>possible to put in new posts or do you try to fit in the D90 tops.
>Specifically, I'm concerned about my SIII 88 front doors.  The posts are
>so rusted that I think they might break.

I just went through this.  My door tops were so rusted that they made more
noise flapping in the breeze than almost every other clunk and rattle in
the whole truck.  I ordered new replacement tops from Paddock in the U.K.
for what was around $100 or so U.S. $$$    VERY worth it.  I don't know a
damn thing about the D90 tops so I'll stay out of that part of the
conversation....

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
Pittsburgh, Pa.

------------------------------

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 22:44:33 -0700
Subject: Re: MileMarker Winch on a IIa SWB?

Dear JAB,

I have only spoken with a guy who put one on a RR. His experience was that
the LR pump was too small to get full tilt usage out of the MM. I would
agree that the GM pump is a good goal.

It would seem that as long as the engine isn't taxed too much by the
addition of the PS pump that it should be a pretty straight forward
addatation to place the pump in the series of belt driven items?

John

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 18:42:28 EDT
Subject: Florida Land Rover Rallye (April 18-19)

Ok, I know this doesn't apply to folks too far from Florida or in other
countries (I'm hoping some from maybe South Carolina, Alabama and Southern
Georgia come down) 

Are you planning to attend the Florida Land Rover Club Rally?

Where: Osceola National Forest   (next to Lake City, junction of I-10 & I-75)
When: April 18 & 19  (but as usual with rallies, some of us get there the
Friday afternoon/evening before it and stay till late on sunday...)
Who attends: Duh! Anyone rover related.

There's no entry fee that I'm aware of, but there will be a cooker at the
site. Less intrepid people can make arrangements to stay at the Days Inn 7
miles from the rally site (I'm planning on being less intrepid this year), the
club has worked out a $32/night rate. 

Chris "call me mongo" Horsman put in a note that there will be a trials
section with canes, non-damaging, driven one way, then the other, and a
trailer reversing competition. Last on the competition agenda is where an
upside down garbagecan lid placed on the hood of the vehicle with  a table
tennis ball in it. the trials course is then driven and scored when the ball
falls out... should liven things up. Anyone for Rover-Limbo under the half-
shafts? Any questions, keep them to yourself ;-)... Suggestions on the trials
to (813) 384-3038.

***For more info on the Rally, I guess you can call the Organizers Nick or Jim
Karantinos (904) 752-0139 H (904) 752-4227 W. Lemme see if the club has a
number... nope, not on this flyer. Oh well, the clup prez can be e-mailed at
MY73ROVER@aol.com his name is Mark Copeland.***

Oh yeah, I'm going. If for no other reason than I hope to win "Farthest
Travelled" again. haha.

pat
93 "gotta fix that winch" 110

------------------------------

From: JKwas61947 <JKwas61947@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 18:44:04 EDT
Subject: How to get the jetting right...

     All of the talk lately of which jets to use, sea level adjustment
schedules, etc.  has gotten me to thinking.....

     I once read somewhere that if your jetting is on the mark, your exhaust
gas temperature in the first inch or so of the exhaust manifold should be
between 1200F and 1400F.  All you have to do is drill and tap a hole in the
manifold and screw in a digital temperature probe (available from hot-rod
catalogs).  Temp too high=Lean,  too low=Rich.  This may be overkill, but if
your jetting is driving you nuts, it might be worth the effort.

John

------------------------------

[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ]
From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 22:56:47 -0700
Subject: Series III , Colorado Vehicle FOR SALE
	charset="iso-8859-1"

1973 Series III 88"
Original Paint
NEW 2.25 Stage II performance Engine.( Still hasn't hit 500miles)
Unleaded Head
2.5 cam
Dual Optima Batteries on Stainless custom tray
new Dist. w/ Pretronix ingnition
2bl brl Webber w/ High altitude jetting
1500 miles on Heavy duty suspension
Rancho 5000 Shocks
New Interior w/ cubby from BLRS (hand imported)
2000miles on 16in mud terrains (tubeless w/ tubes for air down)
Hella H4 headlights (55/65)
Bull Bar
New Wire Harness
NO RUST!
Many custom extras
$12,000 obo
303-774-9225
jwrover@colo-net.com

Ask for John

------=_NextPart_000_0033_01BD601C.F232ACC0
	[ Original post was HTML ]
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: text/html; ]

------------------------------

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 17:50:50 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: MileMarker Winch on a IIa SWB?

On Sat, 4 Apr 1998, K. John Wood wrote:

> It would seem that as long as the engine isn't taxed too much by the
> addition of the PS pump that it should be a pretty straight forward
> addatation to place the pump in the series of belt driven items?

My plan was to get one of the military style double pulleys and use the
otherwise unused second pulley to drive the PS pump.  That way when I had
no chance of using  the winch, I could disconect and save a little wear
and tear.

david

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 18:55:07 EDT
Subject: Land Rover D90 *free* to good home...

A-ha, got you to open the mail...

Just wanted to make sure you LRO's in the south-eastern states plan on
attending the rallye.

pat
93  "not up for adoption" 110

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 19:04:21 EDT
Subject: Re: MileMarker Winch on a IIa SWB?

In a message dated 4/8/98 7:01:49 PM, you wrote:

>My plan was to get one of the military style double pulleys and use the
>otherwise unused second pulley to drive the PS pump.  That way when I had
>no chance of using  the winch, I could disconect and save a little wear
>and tear.

Any chance of using a pulley off the front of an a/c compressor, that way you
could disengage it with a switch when not using it (most of the time), and
"turn it on" easily when needed. Just a thought, I have no idea what the GM
P/S pump nor the pulley off of the a/c look like.

pat
93  110

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 19:09:58 EDT
Subject: Re:  How to get the jetting right...

In a message dated 4/8/98 6:59:39 PM, you wrote:

> I once read somewhere that if your jetting is on the mark, your exhaust
>gas temperature in the first inch or so of the exhaust manifold should be
>between 1200F and 1400F.  All you have to do is drill and tap a hole in the
>manifold and screw in a digital temperature probe (available from hot-rod
>catalogs).  Temp too high=Lean,  too low=Rich.  This may be overkill, but if
>your jetting is driving you nuts, it might be worth the effort.

And I've seen ads for EGT guages too. (Actually the Bell I used to fly had a
good one) On a consumer-level, I've seen rich-lean guages advertised. These
are called "Stoichiometric Guages" (?) and measure the O2 (?) of the exhaust
and tell you if your engine is rich or lean by little lights. Anyone actually
see one of these in a car? VDO makes a neat Cyl Head Temp guage as well as an
Exhaust Gas Temp one that match their "Cockpit"line.

pat
93  110

------------------------------

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 18:21:40 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: MileMarker Winch on a IIa SWB?

On Wed, 8 Apr 1998, SPYDERS wrote:

> Any chance of using a pulley off the front of an a/c compressor, that way you
 could disengage it with a switch when not using it (most of the time), and
 "turn it on" easily when needed. Just a thought, I have no idea what the
GM
> P/S pump nor the pulley off of the a/c look like.

The air conditioner pulley spins all the time.  There is an electric
clutch that connects driving power.  Had one fail once, which eventually
caused the already dodgy compressor to seize, which caused the rear wheels
to stop spinning.  Rather shocking.  I don't know if you could make
something like work on a stock ps pump or not.  There do exist switched
hydraulic pumps, which do this.  In a junkyard, they would be outnumbered
by chevy smallblocks 10,000 to one.

David

------------------------------

From: JKwas61947 <JKwas61947@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 19:22:24 EDT
Subject: Re: LR's as fashion statement

     I run a small town drug store.  Last week a guy came in for a
prescription, and while I filled it, he told me why he picked my store over
the local Wal-Mart pharmacy.  He said it was because he heard that there's
usually an old Land Rover parked behind my store and he wanted to check it
out!  Another bonus that comes with Rover ownership, I guess.
     This morning the Rover wouldn't start.  I hope I didn't lose any business
because of it....

John

------------------------------

From: Niall Duncan Forbes <nforbes@is2.dal.ca>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 20:46:41 -0300 (ADT)
Subject: Re:  Re: most suitable tyres for LWB SIII

On Tue, 7 Apr 1998, Jarvis 64 wrote:

> Peter,
> Think you got it backwards re. tire sizes.  The first number is the sidewall
> height,  (235).  The second number (85) is the aspect ratio--the width of the
> tire as a percentage of the height.  I learned this (or maybe am dead wrong
> and just imagine learning it) from yet another article in Four Wheeler or
> somewhere that I no longer can find.

You have it backward. The correct way is the way originally stated. Just
think of a low profile tire on a sports car. A Porsche 911 might use, as a
rear tire, a 325/40/18. You can bet that this is not a skinny tire.

Niall Forbes
Looking for a (cheap) LR
(come on Con, give us a deal ;-) )

------------------------------

From: Bren Workman <bworkman@alaska.net>
Date: Thu, 09 Apr 1998 16:16:13 -0700
Subject: Fluids Weight Choices

Hi, all,
  This may seem rather mundane by most, but I am unsure what the "rest"
of the world is using for weights of gear and engine oil.  In Alaska, we
use 5w-30 engine oil and 75w gear oil due to the cold.  Chilton's
recommends 50w for engine and the notorious 90w for gear.  I am leaving
Alaska in a few months and would like an opinion on the following
weights that I can readily secure from local vendors:
	Engine: 20w-50, Castrol
	Gear Oil: 80w-90, Quaker or Stay Lube
  I have been unable to track down the elusive Power Punch to help quiet
my overdrive, though.  I understand it to be molybidium in suspension,
but the average clerk doesn't recognize that Greek.  Does this wonder
juice go by any other name?  
  I would also be interested in joining any Rover clubs in the Georgia
area, if anyone could help me with that.  Thanks, Bren.

Bren Workman
708 Trott Ct.
Ft. Wainwright, AK  99703
'72 88" "Tilly"
'72 88" "'Leper' the parts vehicle"
'65 109" SW  "Baldwin"  Getting ready for his Alaska to
Georgia                         pilgramage!

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 21:13:11 EDT
Subject: Re:  Fluids Weight Choices

In a message dated 4/8/98 8:19:08 PM, you wrote:

> In Alaska, we
>use 5w-30 engine oil and 75w gear oil due to the cold.  Chilton's
>recommends 50w for engine and the notorious 90w for gear.  I am leaving
>Alaska in a few months and would like an opinion on the following
>weights that I can readily secure from local vendors:

FWIW, Mobil now makes a Ow-something oil. I saw it advertised last winter
(yeah, even here in Florida). I think it is Ow-30. There is also someone who I
corresponded with on the list using a 90-110 synthetic gear lube (or maybe it
was 90-105). 

I guess the Ow-something is meant for those in cold climates, or if you have a
Rover Turbine in your car...

pat
93  110

------------------------------

From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 1998 22:38:45 -0300
Subject: Re: MileMarker Winch on a IIa SWB?

Jeffrey A. Berg wrote:
> Having abandoned hopes of finding a complete capstan winch, I'm now
> considering a MileMarker for FINSUP. Has anyone out there installed one on
> a Series beast? Or do you know anyone who has?
> MileMarker recommended that I use a Saginaw PS pump--as used in GM trucks.
> Are there any issues about using the pump when it's not connected to a PS
> system? How would one plumb this thing together? I've found a shop to
> fabricate the mount, but would be open to alternative suggestions from the
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 19 lines)]
> Thanks in advance to anyone who has anything to offer on this.
>  Jeffrey A. Berg     

Jeff the 10500 pounder is really over kill for an 88 however mounts can
br made strong enough. If you don't have over drive(Ican't remember) a
hydraulic pump on a PTO would be way cool and much heavier duty than a
power steering pump.
    John and Muddy

------------------------------

From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 1998 22:41:42 -0300
Subject: Re: Your Rover HERE?

Jeffrey A. Berg wrote:
> My friend Neil Hamilton, formerly of Darien Land Rover, just gave me a ring
> to try and get FINSUP booked for Pepe Land Rover's (White Plains, NY)
> Birthday bash on April 30. Unfortuntately, FINSUP has a prior engagement at
> Darien Land Rover. (Damn truck is busier than I am!) I told Neil I'd try to
> get another vehicle.
> As a (Rangie Owning) friend of mine put it:

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 28 lines)]
> ==
>  Jeffrey A. Berg    

Jeffrey  Jeffrey  Jeffrey, Seinfeld= boredom sans cute chicks YAWN.
     John and Muddy

------------------------------

From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 22:28:02 -0300
Subject: Re: Malaysian names

On Wed, 8 Apr 1998, torque@pacific.net.sg (Lawrence Lee) wrote:

>'81 Ser III 109 2.6l "Kerbau"  (kerbau is the Malay name for water buffalo,
>one that prefers to STAY in the mud)

What a great name for a square Rover! I've seen them in the Philippines (as 
carabau) and while they may stay in the mud they certainly don't stay stuck in 
one spot, they just keep going, even when up to the gunnels in the stuff.

Allan, 300Tdi 90, El Galeon (named with reason after the sailing nightspot that 
cruises Havana harbour, Cuba) 

------------------------------

From: GElam30092 <GElam30092@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 22:43:11 EDT
Subject: Tom Sheppard's "Vehicle Dependent Expedition Guide"

(Sorry for the cross-post but IMHO, there are owners on both side of the
suspension fence who might be interested!)

There is a review of Tom Sheppard's book at
http://www.worldoffroad.com/life/expguide.htm

They liked it too!

Since this is a magazine's site,  there's no telling how long it will/won't be
there.  The ISBN is 0-9532324-0-9 . 

Later...
Gerry Elam
PHX AZ
'63 IIA
'73 III
'95 Discovery

------------------------------

From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 23:16:36 -0300
Subject: Re: Lamp socket

Hi all,
I used a lamp socket more than once and found it very usefull. It was standard 
on my last two Nivas, with a lamp with a rewindable cord. The lamp also had a 
magnet in the base - spool out the lead and stick the lamp to the most 
appropriate bit of metal. Great for a night wheel change, dealing with dive 
gear 
after a night dive, etc. That Niva tool kit was far more useful than the pocket 
thing I got with the 90. The 90 didn't have tyre irons, tyre pump, tyre 
pressure 
gauge, feeler gauge set, tyre pump attachment for blowing carb jets, etc, etc. 
Someone had thought about a few things that might be needed on the side of the 
road in Siberia.   

Admittedly the magnet option is less relevant now but I like having the 12v 
lead 
light available.

 
Allan Smith
Research Scientist
Caribbean Natural Resources Institute
Vieux Fort, St. Lucia, West Indies.
Tel +(758) 454 6060; Fax +(758) 454 5188

------------------------------

From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Date: 	Thu, 09 Apr 1998 09:56:14 +0200
Subject: Re: Fluids Weight Choices

At 16:16 1998-04-09 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi, all,
>  This may seem rather mundane by most, but I am unsure what the "rest"
>of the world is using for weights of gear and engine oil.  In Alaska, we
>use 5w-30 engine oil and 75w gear oil due to the cold.  Chilton's
>recommends 50w for engine and the notorious 90w for gear.  I am leaving
>Alaska in a few months and would like an opinion on the following
>weights that I can readily secure from local vendors:
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 25 lines)]
>'65 109" SW  "Baldwin"  Getting ready for his Alaska to
>Georgia                         pilgramage!
Hi Bren,

I have also been thinking about which oil to use. Here in Sweden it gets
cold (could be -30 in my parts of Sweden). When driving my Volvo I have
always used 10W-40 all year around. Now it is time to change oil in my
newly bought LR and I am not really sure what to choose. First I thought
10W-40 would be fine but Wouldn´t this require a rather "tight" engine. I
could imagine oilconsumtion would increase compared to using 20W-50 or
something similar. 20W-50 would be fine during summer but maybe not during
winters in Sweden. Anybody having opinions about this? 

I dont know about your Power Punch but I have just purchased a tube of STP
Gearbox Oil additive. It is Zinkdialcylditiophosphate 1-5% in Mineral oil.
I am going to use it to reduce whining in my transferbox. I havn´t tested
it yet so I cant tell if it works. Does the list have experiance of this
treatment?

/Peter
--------------------------------------
Peter Thoren 
1975 109" SIII Diesel
Långmyrtorp
740 20 Vänge
018-39 20 56
peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se
--------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Dean Cording <dean@holly.cbr.aspect.com.au>
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 20:18:37 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: Sand Blasting Rims

On Tue, 7 Apr 1998, Paul Quin wrote:
> I want to get my four 15 inch road wheels sand blasted as they are quite
> messy.  Is it necessary to remove the tyres first?  I'm not looking for
> perfection, just a quick clean up, but I don't want to damage the tyres
> as they are still in good shape.

Yes you must remove the tyres as sand blasting will make short work of
them.  Also remember to remove the valves and balance weights.

Dean
=============================================================================
Dean Cording                                   ASPECT Computing P/L
                                               86 Northbourne Ave
Dean.Cording@aspect.com.au  (Work)             Canberra, ACT, 2601, AUSTRALIA
Dean@holly.aspect.com.au    (Private)          ACN. 005 083 670

------------------------------

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