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From: Jarvis 64 <Jarvis64@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 07:08:49 EST
Subject: Re:  Re:  Temporary axel breather

NO NEED TO BUY A D90 BREATHER.  I SAVED AN ARTICLE OUT OF FOUR WHEELER OR
SOMEWHERE (I OF COURSE HAVE LOST IT NOW--W/O EVER GETTING AROUND TO DOING THIS
MYSELF) WHICH TOLD HOW TO USE A NORMAL BRASS PIPE-FITTING THREADED CAREFULLY
INTO YOUR AXLE HOUSING JOINED TO A HOSE W/ A FUEL FILTER ON THE OTHER END OF
IT TO DO THE SAME THING FOR ABOUT $3.00.

GLAD I SPENT 30 MIN DIGGING THRO OLD ISSUES OF SILLY MAGAZINES TO COME UP WITH
THIS BIT OF USELESS TRIVIA.

AND FOR YOU OUT THERE WHO WERE PLANNING ON WRITING ME ASKING WHY THIS IS IN
CAPS--ITS BECAUSE I HAVENT FIXED THIS YET.  ITS ON MY "TO DO" LIST RIGHT AFTER
"INSTALL RAISED AXLE BREATHER"

INCIDENTALLY "AXEL" IS THE G+R FRONT MANS FIRST NAME--AXLE IS WHAT WE HAVE
UNDER OUR ROVERS.

BILL RICE

------------------------------

From: Karl Kurz <kkurz@acad.umm.maine.edu>
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 07:11:41 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: exhaust problem

I couldn't get the pipe to clear sufficiently with the pto at 8oclock, I
had to mount it at 6oclock and reroute to pto driveshaft lower on the bell
housing....it's a very close fit.  My drive shafts are held on with
setscrews and also were a real bugger to get off. I unbolted the winch and
supported it with an engine crane, disconnected the pillow block from the
frame and with a long drift finally persuaded the whole works forward off
the pto. I would have removed it from the winch but that joint was well
rusted on. I then unbolted the pto and turned it one set of bolt holes to
6oclock. I then cleaned and refastened the driveshaft to the pto and
repositioned the pillow block on the frame. It was a new frame so I had to
drill new holes anyway. I also shimmed the whole drivetrain up at the four
mounts by about 3/8" to facilitate clearance for the driveshaft between
the bellhousing and transmission cross member. It worked out well and
there was plenty of room for the front exhaust pipe.

Best of luck,

Karl K. Kurz, N1JZY
POB 352, Machiasport
Maine, 04654
207-255-4036

Heaven is where the police are British, the cooks Italian, the mechanics
German, the lovers French, and it is all organized by the Swiss.

Hell is where the chefs are British, the lovers Swiss, the mechanics
French, the police German, and it is all organized by the Italians.

------------------------------

From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Date: 	Wed, 01 Apr 1998 14:13:44 +0200
Subject: Re: 109 brakes

At 20:52 1998-03-25 -0500, you wrote:
> It is important when fiting the rear brake shoes that the shoes are fitted
>correctly, at first glance the shoes may seem to be the same. There is a
>leading shoe and a trailing shoe. The leading shoe, which goes to the front
>side of the wheel cylinder has the lining fitted  so that the distance from
>the wheel cylinder to the shoe lining  is greater than for the trailing shoe.
> The adjusting cams are fitted in different positions on the backplate, ie
>they are not symetrical about the centerline. The front one is radially 4.5
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 28 lines)]
>Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
> 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

Since I have a problem with my 109 brakes, everything is renewed and I
still have to pump the brakes twice, I tried to check the things Bill
Leacock suggest and my finding was that there is absolutely no difference
between all the four shoes in my rear brakes. How can I check which shoes I
have?  

/Peter 

Peter Thoren
Work:  Department of Genetics
       Uppsala University
       Box 7003; S-750 07 Uppsala
       Phone: +46 18 67 12 69
       Fax:   +46 18 67 27 05
       e-mail peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se

Home:  Långmyrtorp
       740 20 Vänge
       Phone/fax: +46 18 39 20 56
       e-mail: same as above

------------------------------

From: "Peter Monk" <monk@calypso.math.udel.edu>
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 09:25:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Axle Breather

Hi
I'd like to fit the D90 style axle breathers mentioned in this thread to a IIa.
Where do you route the line from the axle?  It seems to me it might break under
axle articulation if not done properly....

Thanks
Peter

-- 
Address: Department of Mathematical Sciences  | Phone: 302-831-1873
         University of Delaware               | FAX  : 302-831-4511
         Newark, DE 19716 
         USA
WWW    : http://www.math.udel.edu/~monk

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 98 09:16:09 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Hi I'm Stupid

>Going back to the description of your previous brake work, I do suggest 
>that you have the work done by a trained brake professional.

Ouch. Couldn't pass up an opportunity like that one could ya...

Thanks TeA, but my problem was not in the brake work so much as the lack 
thereof...it was an honest mistake, and I knew that I had done it. If I took my 
truck to a mechanic every time it needed brake work I'd be one poor sonofab*tch 

I've decide to just go with the 88 standard set-up. Seeing as I haven't driven 
it that way since April of 1996 it probably is worth it to try it out and see 
how it feels. I was able to lock up all fours with no problem, although the 
pedal didn't require as much pressure as it did with the wrong cylinder 
installed. That's what tipped me off...I haven't been able to make the brakes 
fade on that truck, but then i haven't driven it in the big mountains yet. Does 
fine in anything Virigina can throw at it.

I like the idea of upgrades, but since everything else is new I don't want to 
just tear it all out.

regards
DaveB
GreenHELL 72 SIII SWB w/boosted dual circuit brakes (broken)
 

------------------------------

From: Paul Wakefield - Serco <Paul.Wakefield@esrin.esa.it>
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 16:42:49 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: re: bleeding brakes

: ... DaveB bemoans
: late SIII set-up.... 
: Are they really a bitch to bleed like they say or what?

Oh yes, and more so.

Just follow the incantations already posted recently to the list.
Talk about 'black art', more like black magic ....

Are we allowed to say black magic in todays 'PC' society ?

Don't want to start up another flame war on cultural insensitivity ... 

Cheers,

Paul.

------------------------------

From: Orin Harding <orin@deltacp.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 09:26:23 -0500
Subject: Speedometer Error Formulas

I see that the excel spreadsheet didn't post too well so here is the layout I 
used so you can make your own:

	A			B		Formula
1	Section Width		235		Manual input
2	Aspect Ratio		75		Manual input
3	Rim Diameter		15		Manual input
4	Tire Diameter		28.9		=(2*((B1*B2)/2540))+B3
5	Rear Ratio		4.7		Manual input
6	Tire Circumference	90.7		=3.1416*B4
7	Tire Revs/Mile		698.4		=63360/B6
8	Propshaft Revs/Mile	3282.4		=B7*B5
9	Speedo Drive Ratio	2.2		Manual input
10	Speedo Drive Revs/Mile	1492.0		=B8*B9
11	Speedo Calibration	1536		Manual input (This is the 
number on the face of the speedometer 
								Example: 
SN-4111/02A  1536 where 1536 is the revs/mile
								that the 
speedometer is calibrated for)
11	Speedo Error		2.86%		=1-(B10/B11)

Orin Harding
'69 SWB Bug Eye

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 98 09:48:40 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Axle Breather

>Hi
>I'd like to fit the D90 style axle breathers mentioned in this thread to a IIa.
>Where do you route the line from the axle?  It seems to me it might break under
>axle articulation if not done properly....

I got a set of these from Rovers North, there were two options. One was just 
the axle fitting and the hose, the other was a kit with all the pieces to 
install it. I opted for the kit, and the drawing that came with it was unclear 
and the lot of it didn't make much sense. So I would say just go for just the 
breathers. Basically I left some slack in them to alllow for articulation.
I didn't think the rear one ent up high enough, so I extended it and ran it 
along the insideframe rial up into the engine bay. Someday I will tie them off 
near the aircleaner, but for now they are just tucked into various places to 
hold them in place. The front axle breather is running up beside the radiator 
and then follows the windsheild washer hose along the inside edge of the wing 
and disaappears behind the brake booster. I'm very happy with their 
performance, they are maintenance free for the most part and I have never seen 
water in my axles. I also have very few leaks from the hubseal or other axle 
parts. I did have a nasty leak in the diff pinion seal but only because the 
flange sealing surface was scored. 
Have fun
DaveB

------------------------------

From: cmtmgf <cmtmgf@soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 15:52:17 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: I'm in the mag

In this months LRO May 1998 there is an advert for my brothers new
fine-artr print. There on page 176 is my LWB Safari (presently in bits for
a new chassis rebuild) with a Series I, two dogs and a cat.
The picture is called 'Good as Gold' to celebrate the 50th and show the
investment value of Series Landies.
Other images can be seen at:
http://stox49.soc.staffs.ac.uk/www49/Afsweb-S/2-PUBLIS/CATALOG1.HTM

This web-site is an experimental one so things may change on it.

Mick Forster

------------------------------

From: Eugene Spagnuolo <eugene_spagnuolo@ibm.net>
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 10:30:20 -0500
Subject: Hand Winches

I'm looking for a winch (for a 1988 Range Rover), but the expense of an
electric winch is a bit much.  I've recently read of hand winches (Trifor
and Brano) which "can also do anything a power winch can do, but are more
versatile."
Has anyone out there used one?  And more importantly does anyone know where
I could find a good one?

Thanks
Gene
1988 Range Rover
Eugene_Spagnuolo@IBM.net

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 10:41:38 EST
Subject: Re: Hand Winches

In a message dated 4/1/98 10:38:29 AM Eastern Standard Time,
eugene_spagnuolo@ibm.net writes:

<< I'm looking for a winch (for a 1988 Range Rover), but the expense of an
 electric winch is a bit much.  I've recently read of hand winches (Trifor
 and Brano) which "can also do anything a power winch can do, but are more
 versatile."
 Has anyone out there used one?  And more importantly does anyone know where
 I could find a good one?
  >>

I have used a 2 ton hand winch to pull a non functioning car with flat tires
up a muddy incline.  I had to pull it about 60 feet.  It was slow but not
hard.  The main problem with hand winches is that there's a very limited
amount of cable on them.

Nate

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 08:53:27 -0800 
Subject: English motoring - don't forget McLaren!

	>Then there's F1 - virtually  the whole of the F1 industry is
based in the
	UK.<

	Ah yes, the stunning McLaren F1 road car.  0-60 mph in 3.2
seconds.  231 mph top speed.  Gold plated engine compartment (for head
dissipation)  Centrally located drivers seat (middle of dash board).
The paragon of English motoring and the fastest production motor car in
the world (by a good bit).   

	Powered by a 600 bhp BMW V12 engine :-(

	Paul in Victoria

------------------------------

From: nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 12:13:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re:  Re:  Temporary axel breather

I believe that the brake flex line will thread nicely into the axel
breather hole if you want to cobb up some sort of homemade remote breather
and have a flexible section in it, I remember playing around with that one
night on my SIIa- I just happened to have an extra brake line and tried it
and it threaded in perfectly, you could maybe use some plumbers tephlon
tape top make sure the seal was good on the threads and then you could
dream up whatever other filter system and hard line you wanted for it.
Over all it would be a cheap and effective Breather system if you already
have the stuff lying around, old flex lines and so on...

By the way I remember that article in teh 4wheeler magazine and thats what
made me dream this up, just put some sort of fuel filter on the end and
you should be set...

matt

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 98 11:47:27 -0800
Subject: Re: Axle Breather

;>I'd like to fit the D90 style axle breathers mentioned in this 
;>thread to a IIa.  Where do you route the line from the axle?  
;>It seems to me it might break>under axle articulation if not 
;>done properly....

Peter,
I have a lettle section about breathers on my web site.  I described the 
stock Defender rear routing and a better routing (in my opinion) for the 
front on a series car.

Go to:

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman/LR/LRIndex.htm

Near the bottom of the Land Rover related index page you will see a link 
to Tips and Tweeks. Take that link.  The section for breathers is on that 
page.  Hope you find it helpful.

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman
Gets you to my site's front door.

Take care

TeriAnn Wakeman              I subscribe to several high volume mail
Santa Cruz, California       Lists and do not read every posting. 
twakeman@cruzers.com         If you send me direct mail, please start
www.cruzers.com/~twakeman    subject with TW-  so I will know to read it.

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 14:50:08 EST
Subject: Re:  Temporary axel breather

Someone asked how to deal with the axle articulation, as in it might rip the
tubing out or something, then I just read a posting about threading a brake
flex-hose into the breather hole; so now it just hit me to put the two
concepts together. ie: the breather hose would be zip tied loosely (or with a
bit of slack) to the brake line where it runs along the axle and then up to
wherever. If the brake line is routed so it doesn't tear off, then the
breather hose should survive.

pat
93  110

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 15:05:30 EST
Subject: Re:  Hand Winches

In a message dated 4/1/98 10:38:29 AM, you wrote:

>I'm looking for a winch (for a 1988 Range Rover), but the expense of an
>electric winch is a bit much.  I've recently read of hand winches (Trifor
>and Brano) which "can also do anything a power winch can do, but are more
>versatile."

Gene, sure they "can also do anything... etc", but the analogy (sorry anti-
gunners) is like saying a .38 can do anything a .50 cal GPMG can do, the
caveat is it will take a lot longer. ie: the manual winch will pull you just
as far as the electric winch, but it will take longer. If you have a long pull
to make, it can be much longer (timewise) because you would have to chock the
vehicle to prevent you from losing the ground you just made if going uphil,
and re-do the winching operation because of the limited amount of space on the
spool for the cable. I realize that some people have all the time in the
world, but there's also the PITA factor involved in locating new ground
anchoring points, chocking, unspooling and re-pulling. 

I'd get one anyway, to use as an adjunct to a proper vehicle mounted winch.
Get one, because chances are, everyone else will have vehicle mounted winches
and can help you out quickly, but when a manual winch is the only solution,
you'll be *it*. IMHO, you'll end up using a vehicle mounted winch more often.
The "more versatile" part of the claim is because you can hook the hand winch
to the sides, rear, bottom, top, etc., of your vehicle or to any two objects
you want to move like a rock and a hard place; so they do have merits. 90% of
the time I've been winch involved (either pulling myself out or being pulled
out) it has been with the wincher pulling close to dead-on with a vehicle
mounted winch. The one time I needed a sideways pull (embarrasing, really), it
was easier to use a doubled-up strop to tug the rover's rear end back up than
to break out his carefully stowed manual winch.

just my .02...

pat
93  110

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 15:29:05 EST
Subject: Spotted in March LROI

Ok, here's my contribution to the "spotted" postings, both in March LROI
magazine:

1st: Page 87. Picture "2" If you don't have enough room to work *under* your
Rover, you can always take it to the LRO anti-gravity garage, where they'll
gladly hang it from the ceiling with wooden blocks...

2nd: Starts Page 92, proceeds to Page 94: They start an a/c install on a LHD
NASD90 with a V8 4.0 in it, and being keen engine-swap-types, they end up with
a RHD TDI by picture 25! Cool. Too bad I already have a/c, or I'd have that
procedure done for sure...

I know I don't get a mug, or a T-shirt, but I hope the magazine keeps me
grinning like this in future issues ;-)

pat
93  110

------------------------------

From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@rc.gc.ca>
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 16:57:28 -0800
Subject: Lucas

Marin Faure writes: 

>"LUCAS. A Division of Siemens Electronics (or it might have been Bosch
> or Phillips, I can't remember which now).  In any event, Lucas was     
> apparently purchased by one the huge continental Europe electronics
> companies some time ago.

Lucas is owned by Variety, an American firm (which I believe was 
originally Massey Ferguson.  MF got lots of gov't handlouts in Ontario 
and once they finished, moved to the USA)

------------------------------

From: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 15:14:54 -0800
Subject: Re: Lucas

At 04:57 PM 4/1/98 -0800, you wrote:
>Marin Faure writes: 
>>"LUCAS. A Division of Siemens Electronics (or it might have been Bosch
>> or Phillips, I can't remember which now).  In any event, Lucas was     
>> apparently purchased by one the huge continental Europe electronics
>> companies some time ago.
>Lucas is owned by Variety, an American firm (which I believe was 
>originally Massey Ferguson.  MF got lots of gov't handlouts in Ontario 
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>originally Massey Ferguson.  MF got lots of gov't handlouts in Ontario 
>and once they finished, moved to the USA)
And quite recently the remanufacturing division in UK was bought by World
Wide Automotive a remanufacuring firm in VA, US. BTW, Varity also owns
Kelsey-Hayes, a nice fit with Girling.
 

Peter
'60 109SW
'64 88 w/plow & Kodiak
'70 88 (in pieces)
'73 88 (driver)
nosimport@mailbag.com

------------------------------

From: Jan Ben <ben@lucent.com>
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 17:43:13 -0500
Subject: 70's AT Rangies - which X-fer case?

Hi all,

Does anybody know what was the transfer case used on early AT-equipped
RRs?
Thx
jan

------------------------------

From: Sski3 <Sski3@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 17:45:10 EST
Subject: Colors

One of worst colors to have on vehicle is red,next is blue because red fades
the fastest ,blue is next. This is from the auto industry. I hope this helps .
Steve F
SIIA 88 69
SIIA 88 65

------------------------------

From: g@ix.netcom.com (Gerald)
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 22:50:53 GMT
Subject: Re: Hand Winches

I searched around the US (are you in the US?) and did not like the
ones I saw. I ended up buying one from David Bowyer in the UK and
shipping it over.

On Wed, 01 Apr 1998 10:30:20 -0500, you wrote:

>I'm looking for a winch (for a 1988 Range Rover), but the expense of an
>electric winch is a bit much.  I've recently read of hand winches (Trifor
>and Brano) which "can also do anything a power winch can do, but are more
>versatile."
>Has anyone out there used one?  And more importantly does anyone know where
>I could find a good one?

--
Gerald
g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 18:08:24 EST
Subject: Re:  Colors

In a message dated 4/1/98 5:51:55 PM, you wrote:

>One of worst colors to have on vehicle is red,next is blue because red fades
>the fastest ,blue is next. This is from the auto industry. I hope this helps
>.
>Steve F

Steve, What about *green*? 

pat
93  110

------------------------------

From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 19:18:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Colors

Sski3 wrote:
> One of worst colors to have on vehicle is red,next is blue because red fades
> the fastest ,blue is next. This is from the auto industry. I hope this helps .
> Steve F

  
Red doesn't fade too badly if you remember to scrape it on rocks and
trees and hide it from the sun under a good coat of mud :)
    John and Muddy

------------------------------

From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 15:28:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 70's AT Rangies - which X-fer case?

Jan,

        There were no sutomatics in the '70s. If you are referring to the
'80s versions, they had an LT-230R with a 1.03:1 high range.

        Jim Allen

PS the "R" stands for roller bearing. The later units were LT-230T, fot
tapered bearing. They refer to the bearings on the intermediate gear.

------------------------------

From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 22:16:47
Subject: BMW etc.

Whats all the fuss about Beemers and Brits? I believe the Queen married a
German, that would be Prince Charlie weiner schnizle 8^)

Jim Wolf

------------------------------

From: lndrvr@ldd.net (BRIAN WILLOUGHBY)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 20:17:37 -0600
Subject: Ironically, Another British-Made/Owned Car

It seems as if everyone has forgotten about one of my favourite English
cars, Bristol.  What's so ironic about this manufacturer of exotic GTs? 
Well, it seems that early Bristols were nothing more than pre-war BMWs,
complete with Bimmer's unique inline six, built in Britain.  As war
reparations, the Bristol Aeroplane Company was given the blueprints to the
BMW 327 and, coincidentally, the Russians were given BMW motocycle designs
which are still in production under the name of Ural.  Someone on the list
has a Ural, if memory serves me.  Anyhow, Bristol is now considered to be
one of the most quintessentially British of British cars.  And current
models use proprietary Chrysler 360 V8s and Torqueflite Automatics!

Personally, I can't understand the concern over BMW purchasing Rolls
Royce--or Rover Group for that matter.  BMW is very respectful of history: 
if you don't believe me look at their own cars (the twin kidney grille, the
round headlamps and the rear-window "hook" have been a BMW hallmark since
the 1930s).  And likewise, I feel that BMW will be respectful of it's
"captives".  How have things really changed at Rover Group since the
buyout?  Not much and I don't think much will change at Rolls, either. 
BMWs look like BMWs; always have, always will.  It's hard to believe that a
company so obcessed with its own identity could consciously destroy those
of the other makes it now owns.  Rolls is steeped in history; so are Rover,
M.G. and Land-Rover.  BMW is not Ford, which, has decided to travel the
path of making Jaguars, Aston Martins and Lagondas nothing more than
badge-engineered Dearborn products.  Browns Lane and Newport are dead;
however Crewe and Solihull seem to be in safe, nevertheless BMW-controlled
hands.  Want an example?  How about the fact that BMW is developing its own
unique "sport utility" vehicle rather than rebadging a Land-Rover (which
would be a much cheaper and cost-effective alternative).  Or consider that
BMW has stated that it would like to resurrect such dormant marques
belonging to the Rover Group stable such as Austin-Healey, Riley and
Triumph.  Is BMW a company bent on ruining years of history and tradition? 
Sounds to me as if it is concerned with keeping them alive.

Brian  

------------------------------

From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 22:23:45
Subject: VICKY

>Lest we forget.......Bill's grandmama was 
>hats off! moment of silence!
>Queen Victoria, her royal self.
>Cheers!!

Now isn't that a hoot, my landy "Vicky" is named after the same monarch.
The girls mamed her 26 years ago. She is/was fat, underpowered and drew
lots of attention wherever she went.

Jim Wolf

------------------------------

From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 09:55:51 -0500
Subject: Re: 2.5 v 2.25

I cannot locate the power output of the 2.5 in all my papers but the following 
may
be of interest. The Series III 2.25  three bearing engines had different 
camshafts
for Petrol and Diesel. When the 5 bearing engines appeared they used the same
camshafts as the S.III which had Imperial threads. Later models used the same
camshafts but with Metric threads ( ERC9543 for petrol and ERC5475 for diesel) 
The
next change was the One Ten model with the 2.25 with the Weber 32-34DMTL 
carb.The
use of this carb. allowed the camshaft no.ERC5475 to be used in both the petrol 
and
diesel 2.25 engines ( It must not be used with a Zenith carb) This same cam is 
also
fitted to the 2.5 Diesel. There are conversion kits available for the change 
from
imperial to metric.
I will keep looking for you Dave.............you see what you can find on 
locking
diffs. Cya.

Paul Wakefield - Serco wrote:

> >>So. What are the differences in power between the 2.5 and 2.25 petrol?
> >>DaveB
> > You are a tenacious man and I've noticed that no one on the list seems to be
> > paying you any mind.  C'mon you yobbos!!  Help my man Dave out here!
> Even my capacious Land Rover useful tips 'n' tricks archive doesn't contain 
this
> information.
> You're on your own Dave ;-)
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
> Cheers,
> Paul.

------------------------------

From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 10:12:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Ironically, Another British-Made/Owned Car

If my memory serves me correctly I seem to recollect reading that BMW ( and I
think Datsun) both began life as manufacturers of cars by importing and
assembling Austin CKD ( crated knocked down) vehicles. I think it was the baby
Austin, the same as the Austin endeavour in the States which became the Bantam
Motor Car Co.which designed the first GP.(sorry just couldn`t type the word)
BRIAN WILLOUGHBY wrote:

> It seems as if everyone has forgotten about one of my favourite English
> cars, Bristol.  What's so ironic about this manufacturer of exotic GTs?
> Well, it seems that early Bristols were nothing more than pre-war BMWs,
> complete with Bimmer's unique inline six, built in Britain.  As war
> reparations, the Bristol Aeroplane Company was given the blueprints to the
> BMW 327 and, coincidentally, the Russians were given BMW motocycle designs
> which are still in production under the name of Ural.  Someone on the list
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 34 lines)]
> Sounds to me as if it is concerned with keeping them alive.
> Brian

------------------------------

From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 20:05:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 2.5 v 2.25

You mean I'm the only one here with 2.5L petrol info. Gad Zukes!

The engine used a 2bbl Weber 32/34DMTL carb and used the diesel camshaft
(called the "2.5L cam" by the general population) but with the cam timing
retarded a few degrees from diesel specs. It has the same bore but a longer
stroke than the 2.25. Here are the basic specs. Bear in mind that the power
and torque ratings are DIN Net figures as opposed to the old 2.25 specs
which were SAE Gross (the 2.25 was 65 net hp). The specs are from a 1989

Displacement-   2495cc
Bore & Stroke-  3.562" x 3.82"
CR-             8.0:1
Power-          80hp @ 4000
Torque-         129lbs-ft@ 2000

------------------------------

From: Joost Kramer <jkramer@best.ms.philips.com>
Date: Thu, 02 Apr 1998 09:14:17 +0100
Subject: Re: Hand Winches

> The main problem with hand winches is that there's a very limited
> amount of cable on them.

No no. A tirfor winch is a pull thru winch, so the amount of cable is
not limited. Even the weight is low, a 1.6 ton (typical) weights about
14 kg. 

My problem is: where to buy such a winch?

Regards,
Joost

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 09:00:07 +0000
Subject: Re: BMW etc.

Errr, no.      (oh it was April Fool's day, but you missed the midday
limit)

Queen Elizabeth II married a Greek. He has a reputation for being a bit
xenophobic - although I don't think I've heard him criticise the Greeks
yet.

German stuff goes back to Albert (Queen Vic's husband) who brought various
Christmas traditions into Great Britain (eg. Christmas Trees). The royal
families were all inbred in those days - look at the occurrance of
haemophilia and the genes for it...

Besides, most of the UK population has Germanic origins - even the word
"England". The Angles and Saxons were tribes from Germany (cf. Horsa &
Hengist if you believe that legend).

King Arthur fought the Saxons.

As for 1066, Harold and William were both 3rd generation Viking, so it was
pretty inevitable a
Viking would win - even though Harald thingummy (the true Viking) lost at
Stamford Bridge in 1066.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net on 04/01/98 10:16:47 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  BMW etc.

Whats all the fuss about Beemers and Brits? I believe the Queen married a
German, that would be Prince Charlie weiner schnizle 8^)
Jim Wolf

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 09:03:07 +0000
Subject: Re: Ironically, Another British-Made/Owned Car

And Boeing started out reburshing/rebuilding some De Havilland war surplus
planes (DH4s?)
for mail use.
Hmm, wonder which is the bigger now...

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

dhlowe@idirect.com on 04/01/98 03:12:26 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Re: Ironically, Another British-Made/Owned Car

If my memory serves me correctly I seem to recollect reading that BMW ( and
I
think Datsun) both began life as manufacturers of cars by importing and
assembling Austin CKD ( crated knocked down) vehicles. I think it was the
baby
Austin, the same as the Austin endeavour in the States which became the
Bantam
Motor Car Co.which designed the first GP.(sorry just couldn`t type the
word)
BRIAN WILLOUGHBY wrote:
> It seems as if everyone has forgotten about one of my favourite English
> cars, Bristol.  What's so ironic about this manufacturer of exotic GTs?
      [ truncated by lro-lite (was 37 lines)]

------------------------------

[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; 
boundary="------------C7B225548C4A2AB452061A97" ]
From: Mick Forster <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 02 Apr 1998 09:03:06 +0100
Subject: Front towing points

At the risk of being repetitive does anyone know where you can get the
D-rings which attach to the extra-long bolt which can be fitted to the
front of leaf-sprung Landies.
There is a picture of a Defender Wolf in the latest LROI on pages 54-55
clearly showing these type of D-rings, which would be attached to the
front of the chassis on the coilers.
Are they used for being towed or for air-lifting, as someone suggested
to me?

Any comments greatly appreciated.

Mick Forster
--------------C7B225548C4A2AB452061A97

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 09:09:06 +0000
Subject: Re: Colors

Makes sense: bright colours fading.

There are a couple of other reasons not to drive red colours:

1.) Police pull them over more.  (stand out when you look towards them)

2.) More accidents.
Excluding a possible boy-racer element, this is because the red/colour
visibility in the eye isn't very
good around the edges (edges good at movement).

So they say...

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

Sski3@aol.com on 04/01/98 10:45:10 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Colors

One of worst colors to have on vehicle is red,next is blue because red
fades
the fastest ,blue is next. This is from the auto industry. I hope this
helps .
Steve F
SIIA 88 69
SIIA 88 65

------------------------------

From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 22:27:50 +1000
Subject: Beemers buy the brits out!

Nate

>I hear they're coming out with a Jaguar luxury line of light duty pickups
<---ONLY A JOKE!!!

It ain't!  Pix of the proposed Jaguar 4WD suv were published a year or so
ago.

Also, if we are now talking of the Bavarian RR, we will have to ensure we
say Bavarian Range Rover.

Ron

------------------------------

From: "Said Geoffrey at MITTS" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 11:09:35 +0100
Subject: RE:Re: 2.5 v 2.25

I do not know about petrol but as stated from various magazines landrover 
squeezed out about 12% more power from the 2.25.

Thanks
Geoffrey
Malta

Wesley Harris:
>At 03:42 PM 3/30/98 EST, you wrote:
>>So. What are the differences in power between the 2.5 and 2.25 petrol?
>>DaveB
>Dave-

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 24 lines)]
>Wes
>'64 IIA 88 (almost there)  

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Thu, 02 Apr 1998 12:11:23 +0200
Subject: Re: BMW etc.

If you ask me we should have kept Land Rover, Jaguar and Rolls, and let
the beemers have our royal family - it would have been a much better
deal. After all, a 40 year old series 1 is not half as tatty as Betty
Windsor and Co.

:-)

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: b.boehlers@olsy.dk (Bent Boehlers)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 09:37:15 +0200
Subject: RE: Hand Winches

Eugene Spagnuolo[SMTP:eugene_spagnuolo@ibm.net] wrote:

I'm looking for a winch (for a 1988 Range Rover), but the expense of an
electric winch is a bit much.  I've recently read of hand winches (Trifor
and Brano) which "can also do anything a power winch can do, but are more
versatile."
Has anyone out there used one?

Yes, I have one in my 110". It works fine, even on a 35 degrees hill.
Your need for a winch is very depending on what You plan to use it for, and 
Your budget.

For the budget, decide for Yourself, but think also of 2.hand equipment.

Heavy offroad competition: Get an electric one and an extra battery. Mount 
it in the front like they do in the Cameltrophy cars. In a competition You 
will always try to move on as fast as possible, there is no need to think 
of getting back.
Offroad solo expedition: Africa, Sibiria and that kind, if You will need 
the winch daily, get an electric or hydraulic with possibility to move from 
front to back. Because You mostly will need to pull Your self out the way 
You got into some mess. If You are on unlimited budget mount two.
Solotravel in Europe, now and then light offroad and greenlanning but NOT 
competition: Get the handwinch.

NB:
     Electric winch is fast, but with full load it will often get
     hot in 5 min. Will work as long as Your battery lasts.

     Hydraulic winch is slower, but will not get hot, will pull
     as long as the engine runs.

     Hand winch is slow, but will pull without battery, and
     engine stopped, as long as You have bread and water.

My 2p, I only cary the winch when I leave town, for holliday or offroad. 
And ofcause in winter if the forecast says more than 2 feet of snow. Why 
cary that weight in a town with hard surfaced roads? Btw, chains will 
prevent you from getting stuck in most snow or mud, but dig You down in 
sand.

 And more importantly does anyone know where I could find a good one?

Try URL: http://www.arachnid.co.uk/4x4/b/bowyer/index.html
If You are located in UK.

Happy Rovering on and off road

Bent Boehlers
Denmark

X-deleted-begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT

	[Attachment WINMAIL.DAT removed, was 57 lines.]	end

------------------------------

From: b.boehlers@olsy.dk (Bent Boehlers)
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 09:37:15 +0200
Subject: RE: Hand Winches

Eugene Spagnuolo[SMTP:eugene_spagnuolo@ibm.net] wrote:

I'm looking for a winch (for a 1988 Range Rover), but the expense of an
electric winch is a bit much.  I've recently read of hand winches (Trifor
and Brano) which "can also do anything a power winch can do, but are more
versatile."
Has anyone out there used one?

Yes, I have one in my 110". It works fine, even on a 35 degrees hill.
Your need for a winch is very depending on what You plan to use it for, and 
Your budget.

For the budget, decide for Yourself, but think also of 2.hand equipment.

Heavy offroad competition: Get an electric one and an extra battery. Mount 
it in the front like they do in the Cameltrophy cars. In a competition You 
will always try to move on as fast as possible, there is no need to think 
of getting back.
Offroad solo expedition: Africa, Sibiria and that kind, if You will need 
the winch daily, get an electric or hydraulic with possibility to move from 
front to back. Because You mostly will need to pull Your self out the way 
You got into some mess. If You are on unlimited budget mount two.
Solotravel in Europe, now and then light offroad and greenlanning but NOT 
competition: Get the handwinch.

NB:
     Electric winch is fast, but with full load it will often get
     hot in 5 min. Will work as long as Your battery lasts.

     Hydraulic winch is slower, but will not get hot, will pull
     as long as the engine runs.

     Hand winch is slow, but will pull without battery, and
     engine stopped, as long as You have bread and water.

My 2p, I only cary the winch when I leave town, for holliday or offroad. 
And ofcause in winter if the forecast says more than 2 feet of snow. Why 
cary that weight in a town with hard surfaced roads? Btw, chains will 
prevent you from getting stuck in most snow or mud, but dig You down in 
sand.

 And more importantly does anyone know where I could find a good one?

Try URL: http://www.arachnid.co.uk/4x4/b/bowyer/index.html
If You are located in UK.

Happy Rovering on and off road

Bent Boehlers
Denmark

X-deleted-begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT

	[Attachment WINMAIL.DAT removed, was 57 lines.]	end

------------------------------

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