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From: Paul Wakefield - Serco <Paul.Wakefield@esrin.esa.it>
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 15:31:02 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: 2.5 v 2.25

>>DaveB
> You are a tenacious man and I've noticed that no one on the list seems to be
> paying you any mind.  C'mon you yobbos!!  Help my man Dave out here!

Even my capacious Land Rover useful tips 'n' tricks archive doesn't contain 
this 
information.

You're on your own Dave ;-)

I do know the blocks are the same, and the camshaft from the 2.5 is 
interchangable with the 2.25 but not the crankshaft.

Allegedly 

Cheers,

Paul.

------------------------------

From: "LT J Jackson" <lt_j_jackson@unixlink.uscga.edu>
Date: 31 Mar 1998 09:08:41 -0400
Subject: SIII Brakes

I've got a brake problem which I've not seen mentioned in the recent
discussions.  Since replacing my lines and wheel cylinders I've had nothing
but a good, solid pedal.

But comma

My rear wheels lock up in even a mild "panic" stop.  I'm not talking about a
propane truck pulling out right in front of me, either.  Stops which other
(read: normal) cars make without drama, like an unexpected yellow light, make
me sweat like Mike Tyson taking the SAT's.  Blue smoke, squealing rubber,
alarmed looks from curbside pedestrians, you get the picture.  And, like
everything Rover, it's worse in the rain.

I've lowered the tire pressure, backed off the snail cams on the rear wheels
another click, but no joy so far.   Any ideas?  

Jeff Jackson
73 SIII 88 

------------------------------

From: "LT J Jackson" <lt_j_jackson@unixlink.uscga.edu>
Date: 31 Mar 1998 09:17:06 -0400
Subject: Attachment point

I need some advice on setting up a good attachment point for the front of my
SIII.   I've got a stock bumper (and it's new, so I don't want to replace it
with a military one.  But I do regret not buying the military bumper when I
did the frameover).   

Any ideas?

Jeff Jackson
73 SIII 88

------------------------------

From: Joost Kramer <jkramer@best.ms.philips.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 16:31:15 +0100
Subject: Re: SIII Brakes

> I've lowered the tire pressure, backed off the snail cams on the rear wheels
> another click, but no joy so far.   Any ideas?

Yep, get some load in your truck.

Joost

------------------------------

From: "Herman L. Stude" <hermans@krts.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 08:47:20 -0600
Subject: Re: Temporary axel breather

SPYDERS wrote:
> I hate to recommend spending money, but since it isn't mine, here goes:
> The D-90 axle breather kits are far superior to the ball&cage trick on S-rigs,
> IMHO. Ask on the list for agreeing/dissenting opinions...

Couldn't agree more, my old style kept cloging up, so I went with the
new style tubing.

------------------------------

From: Ian Stuart <kiz@holyrood.ed.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 15:52:45 +0100 (BST)
Subject: Re: Attachment point

On 31 Mar 1998, LT J Jackson wrote:

> I need some advice on setting up a good attachment point for the front of my
> SIII.   I've got a stock bumper
Either a Dixon-Bate or standard tow ball can be used.

Bolt through the bumper onto a spreader-plate.  The plate should be the
full height of the inside of the bumper, about 4 inches wider than the
towball and make of 1/2-inch+ steel.

Position the towball straight opposite the dumbirons.  Make sure that the
bolts for the bumper are high-tensile steel!

     ----** Ian Stuart

Land Rover : A British car that was meant to survive the charge of an
  adult bull rhino and be field-stripped in the jungle with essentially
  a screw-driver and a crescent wrench.

               WWW: http://www.tardis.vet.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/

------------------------------

From: Duncan Phillips <dunk@ivanhoe.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 16:03:02 +0100
Subject: Re: Attachment point

>I need some advice on setting up a good attachment point for the front of my
>SIII.  

I recently had the same requirement. The general concenus was a tow-ball on
the front bumber. The guy at the local LR shop suggested adding a piece of
angle-iron (3-foot-ish long) to the back of the  bumper when you bolt the
ball on. It re-inforces the bumber and helps spread the load between the 2
chassis legs.

Don't be tempted to put the tow-ball in the middle though - it'll foul the
starting handle and you'll end up with skinned knuckles!! I put mine on the
drivers side just inside where the chassis leg joins the bumber.

*******************************
Duncan Phillips
1980 SWB SIII 'Evie'
http://Gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~cmtdmp/play/lrover/
*******************************
Big Bad n' Blue

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 98 10:18:26 EST
Subject: Re: SIII Brakes

>I've lowered the tire pressure, backed off the snail cams on the rear wheels 
>another click, but no joy so far.   Any ideas?  

pull the rear drums and check the wheel cylinder pistons have free movement. If 
the rear one is stuck out then slackening the adjuster will not help much.
Been there.

DaveB who is about to report yet another brake problem

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@primail.pr.cyanamid.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 98 10:25:38 EST
Subject: fairey capstan shear pins

Folks-

Bought some new shear pins from Superwinch in the UK recently
(NOT cheap, especially when you throw in the shipping...) for
my Fairey capstan.  US Superwinch dopes say "a cap what?" when I tell
them it isn't and electric winch and explain it's crank driven...
needless to say, they don't stock shear pins for Fairey capstans,
and they even go so far as to say "you can't get them anymore."

BUT, these new shear pins aren't the same as the ones I had
obtained with the winch...considerably fatter, and I fear these
may be 6000lb pins, despite that they say "4 0" across the head
just like the ones I had do (presumably, this indicates a 4000lb
shear pin).

So here's the measurements:

old pins: 0.170 inches in diameter
new pins: 0.211 inches

they do *appear* to be made of the same materials, but who knows...

Anyone out there have a 4000lb or 6000lb Fairey capstan with
stock shear pins they could measure up for me and compare...like
(as opposed to the once asked "how long's yer rod") how thick
is your pin??

rgds,
rd/nige

ps a side note...I've been blowing through the original thin
pins like butta-maybe the new ones are the ones I'm supposed to
have had to begin with.

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 98 10:26:38 EST
Subject: Re: Attachment point

>I need some advice on setting up a good attachment point for the front of my 
>SIII.   I've got a stock bumper (and it's new, so I don't want to replace it 
>with a military one.  But I do regret not buying the military bumper when I 
>did the frameover).   

Any ideas?

what about the standard military tow rings. Last I checked they were $38 for 
the two from RN.
They work exceptionally well.

DaveB

------------------------------

From: "T.D.I.Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 16:28:17 +0100
Subject: Last GB Car

>Morgan, Marcos(sportscars), maybe Caterham (they make cars too, don't
they?),
>the list dwindles, doesn't it. What would really be great is if Bosch
>swallowed up Lucas (and then Magneti Marelli went bankrupt) and revised all
>their stuff and offered retro-fits with Bosch components. Yeah, likely
story,
>but one can dream...

I think the largest remaining GB owned car-maker is still Reliant.

Tom Stevenson
SNL Mussel Project
University Marine Biological Station, Millport, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
Tel: 01475 530581  Fax: 01475 530601  Email: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
Web page: http://www.gla.ac.uk/Acad/Marine/

------------------------------

From: "LT S. ROCHNA" <rochnas@stennis.navy.mil>
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 14:22:22 +0000
Subject: Door Seals

All:

After realizing that the seals on my 88 were in dire wanting of 
replacement - I did the usual and priced all  the regular US 
suppliers.  No thanks.  I went to a local (Va.) auto upolstery / 
interior shop and looked at what they had.  For about $47.00 USD I 
got 40 feet of stripping.  It was not a perfect fit but nothing a few 
minutes with a sharp blade didn't cure.  Another trip to an auto 
parts store for a tube of that egg yolk looking weather stripping 
glue and I was ready to go armed with about 50 spring type 
clothspins.  I had enough to do both doors and the underside of the 
station wagon top.  Not exactly a purist's route but cheaper, warmer 
and dryer than the 25+ year old seals.

Good luck - Steve Rochna

------------------------------

From: Bwana E <BwanaE@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 11:22:15 EST
Subject: Series roll bar info

Gerry Elam wrote:

 
"I have some basic dimensions for a roll cage for a Series vehicle.  Seems
like
someone mentioned here or on the Mendo Recce something about a company back
east who had the items cut, shaped and ready to ship.  All you do is have them
assembled and welded.   Anyone have any knowledge of such a company?

Does anyone recall such a company?   Anyone set their seats back an inch or
two by moving the bulkhead back?  Would installing a rollcage and fastening
the sides to it help maintain the integrity of the vehicle?"

and I'll reply with the following:

Eugene Smith  "Smith's Garage"
1325 Paoli Pike
Westchester, PA.   19382
phone: 610-918-9650

I spoke with Mr. Smith last year after I'd heard about his fabrication of a
full rollcage that fits the rear of Series vehicles. He sent me photos...
looks like a good product... bolts to the frame at outriggers foward and
crossmember aft. It's built in sections and mailed in a flat box to be
assembled/final welded by the customer.

Usual disclaimers apply here, as I did not buy one of his units.

Cheers,  Eric Cope.

------------------------------

From: Jan Ben <ben@lucent.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 11:28:57 -0500
Subject: Early RRs w. Torqueflights -pt 2???

Which x-fer case did they use?   Same porpshafts as the LT95-equipped
Rangies do you think?

Thx
Jan

------------------------------

From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 08:26:30 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: SIII Brakes

Jeff,

        You didn't happen to mix up front to rear or install the wrong
wheel cylinders in the rear, did you? A larger diameter wheel cylinder will
multiply the force generated by the M/C. The rear cylinders are
deliberately smaller than the front because the front does 80% of the
braking and needs more force. If you install a larger diameter cyl. in the
rear, it could cause the brakes to lock up as the weight transfers to the
front in a braking situation.
        You mentioned replacing "lines." If these were the metal lines, the
other possibility is if you crossed up the lines at the master cylinder -
front and rear. As I recall (someone chime in if my memory is faulty),
there are two diameters in the stock cylinder, the smaller bore (at the
front) is for the front brakes and the larger bore (at the rear part of the
master cylinder) is for the rear brakes. If you mixed them, you would be
applying more force to he rear brakes and causing them to lock up. Belive
it or not, the smaller bore generates more pressure than the larger. This
is a sort of built in proportioning valve. Don't drive your Land Rover till
this is fixed!!!!

        Jim Allen

>My rear wheels lock up in even a mild "panic" stop.  I'm not talking about a
>propane truck pulling out right in front of me, either.  Stops which other
>(read: normal) cars make without drama, like an unexpected yellow light, make
>me sweat like Mike Tyson taking the SAT's.  Blue smoke, squealing rubber,
>alarmed looks from curbside pedestrians, you get the picture.  And, like
>everything Rover, it's worse in the rain.

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 08:29:12 -0800
Subject: RE: SIII Brakes

Sounds to me like your rear brakes are doing all of the work when
stopping.  In most cars, the front brakes provide something like 70% of
the stopping power.

Sounds like your problem might actually be with the front brakes...If
the fronts are not working, then the rears will do all of the braking
work and lock up prematurely as the vehicles weight flies forward during
a stop.

Just my guess...

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88 (With working brakes finally...Thank you to all for
your endless discussions of brake bleeding techniques!)
Victoria BC  Canada

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 98 12:18:08 EST
Subject: Hi I'm Stupid

Well, after a weekend of mud flogging and other debauchery I thought it might 
be a good idea to finally take a look inside my brake drums to see which shoes 
needed adjustment that were causing me to double pump. 
So, off came the fronts. Yup, just undo the wheel, take out the 3 screws, and 
they just pop right off, yup. Well only if the shoes haven't bedded into the 
drum by 1/8 of an inch...can you say "pass the hammer"?
So, that said, it becomes apparent to you all that I need new drums and shoes. 
Well that ain't all there is to it. When I rebuilt this truck two years ago, I 
went to put the brakes back together and discovered that the previously good 
wheel cylinders were no longer so. A friend had bought a full set and only 
needed the rears, so I got the fronts at a bargain price. As it were, I didn't 
look at em, just stuck em on there. I never was very happy with the braking 
power of the truck, always though it took too much pedal effort. This on the 
boosted system, ok? So I suspected that maybe, just maybe, they were not the 
right cylinders. Of course every time I check the shoes I *forget* to look at 
the cylinders to see if they the right size. Well this time I remembered, and 
they were not. So I now need: 2 cylinders, 1 set of shoes, 2 drums. So the 
opportunity presents itself to maybe upgrade the system to something akin to a 
late SIII set-up. his being the same as the 109 fronts, with the two wheel 
cylinders. Are they really a bitch to bleed like they say or what? I guess I'll 
need to use the 109 dual master too, huh? Will I be happy with the original set 
up once tis done right? Cost isn't too much of a problem, I think I could do 
the 109 thing pretty cheap, or at least about the same. But is it necessary?
If I change the master than I must be able to bleed the rear cylinders, have to 
check the screws.
Anybody got the stuff I need? two front 109 backplates+ cyliders, 1 109 dual 
boosted master, two drums...
Oy vey. 
DaveB "SCOT master"
nige strikes again...  

------------------------------

[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- 
=_NextPart_000_01BD5CA1.F5DF8B00" ]
From: Orin Harding <namgbr@ibm.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 12:37:30 -0500
Subject: Speedometer/Tire Calculations

Here is an Excel Spreadsheet that will calculate speedometer error for you:

 
Orin Harding
'69 SWB Bug Eye
------ =_NextPart_000_01BD5CA1.F5DF8B00
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: application/vnd.ms-excel; 
name="speedo.xls" ]

------------------------------

From: MRogers315 <MRogers315@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 12:58:42 EST
Subject: Re: Beemers buy the brits out!

We and the Germans are supposed to be all Europeans these days, sob. It still
comes as a blow to see yet another motor manufacturer go to them. Perhaps the
English consortium will be able to pull Rolls Royce back.

Mike Rogers 

------------------------------

From: "Jason B. Carroll" <carrollj@up.edu>
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 10:19:28 -0800
Subject: The Colors!

Well, we are purchasing a 1969 LR 88" from Timm Cooper here in Oregon. He 
should currently be pulling out the Cadillac 454 V8 that is in it, to 
replace it with a tame Chevy 283 V8. Part of trying to make it more 
liveable, is to bang out the major dents, and give it a "decent" paint 
job. I want something that doesn't look thrashed, but something I won't 
cry about with a few scratches. My fiance Beth and I have been debating 
over Poppy Red, AA Defender Yellow, and Camel Trophy Yellow. While 
talking to Timm he said that the Poppy Red is almost OSHA Safety Red, and 
that AA Defender Yellow is almost OSHA Safety Yellow. He was advocating 
the OSHA colors because we could get a can of Rustolem colors anywhere 
for cheap. Any thoughts on the advantages/disadvantages and how close the 
factory colors come to the OSHA colors? Thanks for any help,

--Jason

------------------------------

From: Benjamin Smith <bens@psa.pencom.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 13:05:01 -0600
Subject: Re: getting the axle stub out 

>I broke an axle shaft the other day.  I have removed the axles, but still
>have the broken bit in the diff.  Is there a way to get it out without
>tearing the diff down?  I was thinking I might be able to drive it out
>with a thinish bit of rod.

	Sometimes you can and sometimes you can't.  I've had 4 axles break
over the last 100,000 miles.  Two I could tap out with a screwdriver.  The
other two happened to be double breaks where the offending bit was wedged by 
the the second crack into the spider gear.  I needed a press to get it out.
(and thus needed to tear the diff down to get the part to the press).   No
amount of banging with a hammer and a rod would get that part to budge.

Ben
--
Benjamin Smith                   "If I were running such a contest, I would
Collective Technologies          specifically eliminate any entries from Ben 
    (a pencom company)           involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere. 
Land-  : '72 Series III 88"      He'd drive it up the Amazon Basin for a half
 -Rover: '94 Discovery 5spd      can of Jolt and a stale cookie." --K. Archie

------------------------------

From: Benjamin Smith <bens@psa.pencom.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 13:07:06 -0600
Subject: Re:  Temporary axel breather

SPYDERS@aol.com wrote:
 
> The D-90 axle breather kits are far superior to the ball&cage trick on S-rigs,
> IMHO. Ask on the list for agreeing/dissenting opinions...

	I agree.  I was much happier when I converted my Series III to axle
breather tubes.  It seemd like the ball and cage was gumming up
every month and blowing the oil out on of the seals.   I have not had a problem
in teh 2 years  since I made the conversion.

Ben
--
Benjamin Smith                   "If I were running such a contest, I would
Collective Technologies          specifically eliminate any entries from Ben 
    (a pencom company)           involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere. 
Land-  : '72 Series III 88"      He'd drive it up the Amazon Basin for a half
 -Rover: '94 Discovery           can of Jolt and a stale cookie." --K. Archie

------------------------------

From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 14:06:46 -0500
Subject: The German question...

Have we all forgotten where automobiles came from? Try looking up a 
gentleman by the name of Daimler, and maybe his chums Otto and Diesel. 
Sheesh whutzafuss? 

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: GElam30092 <GElam30092@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 15:32:42 EST
Subject: RE Roll cages for Series

TAW writes:
<<- purchase a genuine double bar military Land Rover roll bar.  I think 
Jim Gwen in Spokane may have a spare that he might sell.  Walter is going 
to the UK soon.  If he actually brings Bertha back at the end of his 
trip, maybe you can talk him into placing a used LR military roll bar in 
the back for the trip home.>>

Well, since I'm flying to Spokane, this option may be the best.  As for using
Defender parts, that's probably not within my budget the way LR sells new
parts!

Thanks again!

Gerry 
PHX AZ

------------------------------

From: aidan lewis-smith <landrover@lewis-smith.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 21:39:39 +0100
Subject: Re: New Defender in Car Magazine

>Did anybody see the article & picture (concept drawing), in CAR
>Magazine, of the next Defender due out in 2003?
>Yuck.
>Paul in Victoria

No!  Can someone with the technology scan us an image so we can all say
yuk too?

-- 
aidan lewis-smith

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 12:53:15 -0800
Subject: RE: New Defender in Car Magazine

	>Did anybody see the article & picture (concept drawing), in CAR
	>Magazine, of the next Defender due out in 2003?
		 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 6 lines)]
	>Yuck.
	>Paul in Victoria

	No!  Can someone with the technology scan us an image so we can
all say
	yuk too?

Beyond my capabilities right now, but let me say that it looked like a
cross between a Jeep Grand Cherokee & an expanded Freelander...It was
just a concept drawing though.

Paul.

------------------------------

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 02:56:22 -0700
Subject: Re: 2.25 Petrol/Diesel Swap

I ma currently in transition from an 88 w/ 2.25petrol to a 109 with 2.25
diesel. So far I have noticed the following:

Petrol:
Great off the line in comarison.
With over drive much louder.
Fuel consumption relatively event. Larger tank on 109.
top end speed comperable when not utilizing the overdrive.(approx. 50-55mph)

Diesel:
Slow off the line.
As noisy as any series vehicle(or D90 at speed)
Fuel is seemingly comparable to 85 octane petrol...thus a little cheaper for
equivelant performance.
With out over drive it is topping out at about 50-55mph.
Harder to get engine fuel system parts...ie-injectors!
In states with emission regulations it seems to be a bit cheaper to
register.
Haven't been off trail yet...However, I live in CO so altitude on a natural
petrol is kinda sluggish...I expect the psuedo fuel injected diesel to
perform slightly better.

I'll let you know after I spend more time with it as a daily driver!

John

------------------------------

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 03:00:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Speedometer/Tire Calculations

Since your message didn't come over clean on internet explorer 4.1

For those who would like to attempt this exercise you can go to
www.solihullsociety.org to the tech tips page and utilize the calculators
there!!

John

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 16:21:36 EST
Subject: Re:  Speedometer/Tire Calculations

Not too sure about the rest of you, but I have trouble decoding NSA files
without my Cheerio Wheel...

I copy the apparently excellent spreadsheet that will do next to nothing for
some of us, the way it came across: 

>Here is an Excel Spreadsheet that will calculate speedometer error for you:

>Orin Harding
>'69 SWB Bug Eye
>------ =_NextPart_000_01BD5CA1.F5DF8B00
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>ZC95eR4EDQAAAApkXC1tbW1cLXl5HgQJAAAABmRcLW1tbR4ECgAAAAdtbW1cLXl5HgQOAAAAC2g6
>bW1cIEFNL1BNHgQRAAAADmg6bW06c3NcIEFNL1BNHgQHAAAABGg6bW0eBAoAAAAHaDptbTpzcx4E
>DwAAAAxtL2QveXlcIGg6bW0eBAgAAAAFMC4wMDAeBAYAAAADMC4wHgQHAAAABDAuMCUeBAsAAAAI
>IyMwLjBFKzAeBAgAAAAFbW06c3MeBAQAAAABQB4ENQAAADJfKCIkIiogIywjIzBfKTtfKCIkIiog
>XCgjLCMjMFwpO18oIiQiKiAiLSJfKTtfKEBfKR4ELAAAAClfKCogIywjIzBfKTtfKCogXCgjLCMj
>MFwpO18oKiAiLSJfKTtfKEBfKR4EPQAAADpfKCIkIiogIywjIzAuMDBfKTtfKCIkIiogXCgjLCMj
>MC4wMFwpO18oIiQiKiAiLSI/P18pO18oQF8pHgQ0AAAAMV8oKiAjLCMjMC4wMF8pO18oKiBcKCMs
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 41 lines)]
>AQIGABEAAgAPAAECBgARAAMAFQA9AAoAaAE8AB8sMhkAAD4CCgC2AAAAAAAAAAAAHQAPAAMKAAUA
>AAABAAoACgAFBasAIgAgAPz/////////////////////////////////////////CgAAAA==

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 16:26:37 -0500
Subject: British

>Morgan, Marcos(sportscars), maybe Caterham (they make cars too, don't they?),
the list dwindles, doesn't it. What would really be great is if Bosch
swallowed up Lucas (and then Magneti Marelli went bankrupt) and revised all
their stuff and offered retro-fits with Bosch components. Yeah, likely story,
but one can dream...

 Don't forget the TVR from Blackpool.
 Lucas has already ben swallowed up by the Yanks, they know a good deal when
they see one !!
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 03:12:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Engine Problems

Elwyn,

Before you give up all hope. Perhaps you should pop the head off and confirm
that it is truely frozen. It may be slightly siezed but salvigable !!! If
not get in touch with one of these military parts warehouses that I read
about in LRO, they seem to be all over GB. Perhaps an engine can be had from
one of them for not too much money!

Good luck.

John Wood
USA

------------------------------

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 03:20:02 -0700
Subject: Re: 2.5 v 2.25

Hey Dave,

It seems that a good 'ol Yank will have to come to your aid!!!

Someone mensioned the ability to use a 2.5 cam in a 2.25 engine. This is a
very standard "upgrade" for us in the US. It allows for better top end and
improved gas ileage.

As for overall comparison...Those are about the two biggies. You gat a wider
power band at the top end and are able to recieve better hwy speeds. It also
gives you better "roll-out" on the fuel side.

If you are looking for a complete performance upgrade on a 2.25 the
recomendation is to get a Turner or equivelant head , ported and jetted to
performance specks. Use a 2.5 cam and a 2bl barrel webber carb on a pierce
intake. Look to upgrading the distributor to a solid state electric
"no-points" unit...I got system from our Rovers North that is a modern
Luminiton deal that fits right into the Lucas dist.

Then do all the little torq and tweek things here and there and you get a
speedy little unit!!!

John Wood
USA

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 16:37:00 -0500
Subject: Door Seals-Tucking in the edge

The way to deal with the leading edge that wants to hook onto the door every
time it is closed, is to employ a small spot of cyanoacrylate adhesive. Put
some tape across the lip to give something to pull it down with. Put a blob
of glue on the mounted side of the seal at the rear edge. Pull the lip down
so it attaches with the glue to the trailing edge . Give it 5 mins or so to
cure and voila it stays in place for ever. Or at least until the seals rot
out again. Please try not to glue yourself to the seal or door. This is why
you use the tape to pull it into place not just press it down with a finger.

------------------------------

From: Sski3 <Sski3@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 20:25:07 EST
Subject: exhaust problem

 Yes I am doing the exhaust in the drive way. the SII is about 2 to 3 feet off
the deck, so there is plenty of room to swing the front pipe. The PTO is in
the 8oclock position and the pipe goes right next to it,but I can't get it by.
I have tried loosening the PTO and the trans mount, also tried loosening the
drive shafts up front and at the PTO The shafts won't move .I can't get the
PTO out without the shafts off, any suggestions?
Steve F
69 SII 88 gas
65 SII 88 IN progess

------------------------------

From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 22:05:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Mechanical vs. Electric OD's

> etc.   I've heard rumblings about electrical OD's from other
> British car fans, but have never heard about them in the
> context of LR's.

The electric overdrives are generally Laycocks, which mount between the
gearbox output and propshaft (only one on a rwd car). In a potential LR
application this unit would only change the speed of the rear propshaft,
and so could only be used in 2wd. Also, considerable machine work would
be required to mount one, and the rear propshaft on a 88 would be too
short. The electric refers to the actuation, not the od mechansim which
is conventional gears.

The various LR od's replace a large gear in the transfer case which
transmits power to the 2wd/4wd and hi/lo mechanisms. It modifies the
speed to both axles. I saw at Owl's Head in '94 a LR od which shifted
via a small lever mounted on the gearshift lever, and I think the
actuation was vacumn. Don't know who the manufactuer was nor where you
might find one today. It might be possible to rig a vacumn or electric
motor to control a Fairey od instead of the lever. Potential motors
might be found on modern "push button" 4wd systems or GM T truck front
axle disconnects.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 98 19:14:55 -0800
Subject: Re: Hi I'm Stupid

;> So the 
:>opportunity presents itself to maybe upgrade the system to something 
akin 
;>to a 
;>late SIII set-up. his being the same as the 109 fronts, with the two 
wheel 
;>cylinders. Are they really a bitch to bleed like they say or what? I 
guess 
;>I'll 
;>need to use the 109 dual master too, huh? Will I be happy with the 
;>original set up once tis done right?

After the description of what you have done to your brakes, I might 
suggest having a brake professional do your brakes for you.  This is one 
of those projects where people can get killed if you do it wrong.

Here is your parts list: 

Tell the person that you are ordering parts from that you have a Stage 1 
109.

Front drums, wheel cylinders, back plates, springs, tube that goes 
between the front wheel cylinders.

The shoes are 3 inches wide, the drums are 11 inch. Do not let anyone 
sell you a front set for  a 2-1/4L 109.  If you are going to go through 
the work, install the best drum braking that Rover had to offer.

Dual master cylinder for stage 1 or series III 109.  It's the same 
cylinder.  An 88 dual master cylinder will not pump enough fluid for the 
dual front wheel cylinders.

In the rear go to the 11 inch 109.  The same rear brakes are used in all 
109s and the 110. These brakes are superior to the 88 rear brakes.

So again you will need drums, back plates, springs, wheel cylinders and 
shoes.  If you feel rich, this is the one assembly that you can order 
from the parts counter of your local Rover dealership.

I don't remember which 88 you have.  If its an early one you will need a 
brake pedal assembly with vacume booster from a late Series II or series 
III. And you will need a series III master clutch cylinder.

The series III 88 did not use a PDA.  The series III 109 does use one.  
According to some Stage 1 manual pages the Lloyd Faxed me a few years 
ago, the PDA is required with that master brake cylinder.

If you are going to do this yourself, don't forget you need to have the 
correct flares correctly made up. Also, be aware that British and 
American brake fittings are incompatible.  Intermixing the two is UNSAFE. 
 The British make fitting has a long nose before the threads to help with 
alignment.  The US male fitting does not.  A US male fitting will screw 
into a British female fitting but will bottom out on the nut flats before 
the flare seats.  A British male fitting will fit into a US female 
fitting and seat the flare properly....BUT will only be held in my one or 
two threads.

If you upgrade 88 brakes to 109 series III or stage 1 brakes, you should 
notice a major improvement in braking ability.  Esp if you are adding 
power brakes for the first time.  If you are going from a single brake 
system to a dual brake system, you have an increased safety factor, AS 
LONG AS THE JOB IS DONE CORRECTLY.

Going back to the description of your previous brake work, I do suggest 
that you have the work done by a trained brake professional.

Oh And I do not have any problems bleeding the front brakes.  But I do 
pressure bleed them.

Good luck!

TeriAnn Wakeman              I subscribe to several high volume mail
Santa Cruz, California       Lists and do not read every posting. 
twakeman@cruzers.com         If you send me direct mail, please start
www.cruzers.com/~twakeman    subject with TW-  so I will know to read it.

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ]
From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 04:59:46 -0700
Subject: 1973 SIII 88 w/ New Engine FOR SALE
	charset="iso-8859-1"

Dear ALL!

If you know anyone who would like an excellent vehicle please point them =
in my direction:

1973 Series III 88" with bran-NEW 2.25L Stage II race prepared unleaded =
head engine. Vehicle has undergone 3 yr restoration program to include =
all major systems and components.(ie-suspension/interior/steering/etc.) =
Sits on original RUST FREE Colorado based chasis. All reciepts for =
parts/labour
many custom extras done with the greatest of care. $12,000.00.

Contact John at 303-774-9225  /  303-442-8116

Thanks,

John Wood

------=_NextPart_000_001F_01BD5F86.7CE23DA0
	[ Original post was HTML ]
	charset="iso-8859-1"

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#b8b8b8>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Dear ALL!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>If you know anyone who would like an =
excellent
vehicle please point them in my direction:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><STRONG>1973 Series III 88&quot; =
</STRONG>with
bran-<STRONG>NEW 2.25L </STRONG>Stage II race prepared unleaded head =
engine.
Vehicle has undergone 3 yr restoration program to include all major =
systems and
components.(ie-suspension/interior/steering/etc.) Sits on original =
<STRONG>RUST
FREE </STRONG>Colorado based chasis. All reciepts for =
parts/labour</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>many custom extras done with the =
greatest of
care. $12,000.00.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Contact <STRONG>John at =
303-774-9225&nbsp;
</STRONG>/&nbsp; 303-442-8116</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>John Wood</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_001F_01BD5F86.7CE23DA0--

------------------------------

From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 19:55:01 -1000
Subject: Re: SIII Brakes

	I think your front brakes are not working properly.  Try clamping the
front brake lines and going for a drive.  If you don't notice a big
difference, the rear wheels are doing most of the braking.  Which is the
reason the rear wheels lock up so easily.  
	Don't ask how I know this. 
Aloha Peter

>My rear wheels lock up in even a mild "panic" stop.  
>Jeff Jackson
>73 SIII 88 

------------------------------

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 01:17:37 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Hi I'm Stupid

On Tue, 31 Mar 1998, TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:

> In the rear go to the 11 inch 109.  The same rear brakes are used in all 
 109s and the 110. These brakes are superior to the 88 rear brakes.
 
 So again you will need drums, back plates, springs, wheel cylinders and 
 shoes.  If you feel rich, this is the one assembly that you can order 
> from the parts counter of your local Rover dealership.

The 109 rear wheel cylinders are the same as the 88 fronts, so you don't
need to buy new.  

David/Mr. Sinclair

------------------------------

From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 22:53:55 -0800
Subject: Re: Beemers buy the brits out!

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 14:35:26 EST
Subject: Re: Beemers buy the brits out!

In a message dated 3/30/98 1:42:13 PM, you wrote:

>Does this make Morgan the last wholly british-owned british car company?
>You know, if they still used BS and Whitworth bolts, none of this would
>have ever happened.

Morgan, Marcos(sportscars), maybe Caterham (they make cars too, don't they?),
the list dwindles, doesn't it. What would really be great is if Bosch
swallowed up Lucas (and then Magneti Marelli went bankrupt) and revised all
their stuff and offered retro-fits with Bosch components. Yeah, likely story,
but one can dream...

Sorry, you're too late.  On a trip to the UK a few years ago I passed a big
Lucas plant near Birmingham.  On the sign outside the company it said
"LUCAS. A Division of Siemens Electronics (or it might have been Bosch or
Phillips, I can't remember which now).  In any event, Lucas was apparently
purchased by one the huge continental Europe electronics companies some
time ago.

As to the list of British-owned car companies, I believe you need to add
TVR to the list, along with Reliant which I think is still in business.

________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
   Seattle, WA

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 09:12:11 +0000
Subject: Re: Beemers buy the brits out!

Yes, there's a few dozen UK car companies - but mainly very small. Reliant
and TVR are possibly the largest.

Then there's F1 - virtually  the whole of the F1 industry is based in the
UK.

Just realised the tape in the truck for the past day or so has been
strangely appropriate - by an
Anglo-German (Handel), it included the Water Music and the Music for the
Royal Fireworks...

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

faurecm@halcyon.com on 04/01/98 06:53:55 AM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Re: Beemers buy the brits out!

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 14:35:26 EST
Subject: Re: Beemers buy the brits out!
In a message dated 3/30/98 1:42:13 PM, you wrote:
>Does this make Morgan the last wholly british-owned british car company?
>You know, if they still used BS and Whitworth bolts, none of this would
>have ever happened.
Morgan, Marcos(sportscars), maybe Caterham (they make cars too, don't
they?),
the list dwindles, doesn't it. What would really be great is if Bosch
swallowed up Lucas (and then Magneti Marelli went bankrupt) and revised all
their stuff and offered retro-fits with Bosch components. Yeah, likely
story,
but one can dream...
Sorry, you're too late.  On a trip to the UK a few years ago I passed a big
Lucas plant near Birmingham.  On the sign outside the company it said
"LUCAS. A Division of Siemens Electronics (or it might have been Bosch or
Phillips, I can't remember which now).  In any event, Lucas was apparently
purchased by one the huge continental Europe electronics companies some
time ago.
As to the list of British-owned car companies, I believe you need to add
TVR to the list, along with Reliant which I think is still in business.

________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
   Seattle, WA

------------------------------

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