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From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 22:48:06 +1000 (EST)
Subject: re brakes

Someone used to make disc-brake conversions
for SIII and others;  they were not unknown
on LWB's with Rover V8's or Holden (GM) 6-cylinders in the 1970's.
I've no idea who did them or if they used Rangie bits.

I believe that you *cannot* just bolt Rangie or Defender
swivels, CV's, and Discs onto a stage-1 (leaf sprung)
front axle, even apart from the latter being too short
for the half-shafts, is it not the case that the CV's
and swivels differ in size?  Someone (who...) wanted to do this before.

Lloyd

------------------------------

From: "Ian Boddison" <bod.glass@easynet.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 1998 00:22:36 -0000
Subject: Re: part# help

>I'm assembling a page for my web site that will contain alternative part
>numbers for components that you could easily source locally.

Either things are worse in the US than I thought or you are a right sucker
for total punishment!!!

Anon!!!

------------------------------

From: Karl Kurz <kkurz@acad.umm.maine.edu>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 07:54:28 -0500 (EST)
Subject: re:exhaust problem

Steve, I had a similar problem when reframing my IIa, which I beleive is
similar in that area. The PTO mounted wonderfully at 8 o'clock but did not
leave enough room for the downpipe where it snaked over the tranmission
cross member....so I wound up refitting the PTO at 6 o'clock, which was a
little tight on the pto driveshaft between the bell housing and member(I
shimmed the engine and transmission up slightly) but works nicely.

Karl K. Kurz, N1JZY
POB 352, Machiasport
Maine, 04654
207-255-4036
1962 ex-MOD #8
1962 MB Unimog 404.s
Heaven is where the police are British, the cooks Italian, the mechanics
German, the lovers French, and it is all organized by the Swiss.

Hell is where the chefs are British, the lovers Swiss, the mechanics
French, the police German, and it is all organized by the Italians.

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 08:15:54 EST
Subject: Re: 2.25 Petrol/Diesel Swap

In a message dated 3/29/98 8:14:29 PM Eastern Standard Time, Elwyny@aol.com
writes:

<< One day, I'll get use to the everyday use of a landrover!  I've just
managed
 to seize up my current 2.25 petrol, due to a severe water loss i failed to
 spot...  >>
Just curious, does the temp gauge work in your rover?  If not, I would fix it.
If you wish to add an additional gauge, oil pressure is a good addition.

Nate

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 08:28:40 EST
Subject: Re: 88 brake improvement

In a message dated 3/29/98 8:35:26 PM Eastern Standard Time,
twakeman@cruzers.com writes:

<< Its very doable.
 
 There is a company in the UK that makes a coil spring frame for the 88.  
 The disc brake axles fit properly.  You can get D90 braking and coil 
 suspension.  But 109 dual power brakes are cheaper.
  >>

Ya know....
I still have single line 88" standard brakes on my 88" LR.  Now maybe I'm
lucky, but my brakes are hard at the pedal within a couple of inches of push,
with a mild degree of fade on repeat braking (no worse than my 86 VW GTI was)
and I can (and have) in emergencys laid down a skid with them.  

Yes, I could benefit from dual lines, but in terms of stopping power, the
standard 88" brakes are fairly good and certainly as good as any brakes I've
had on vehicles of similar vintage (except the 72 Ford pickup with primitive
power brakes which locked up whenever the pedal was touched).

I personally stick with the original 10" brakes until someday if I choose to
go to a dual line vaccuum assisted system.  At that point, I would try a few
trucks with the 109 brakes and see if  the slightly (10% ) bigger drums make
much of a difference.

Nate

------------------------------

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 09:04:07 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: 88 brake improvement

On Mon, 30 Mar 1998, NADdMD wrote:

> Ya know....
> I still have single line 88" standard brakes on my 88" LR.  Now maybe I'm
> lucky, but my brakes are hard at the pedal within a couple of inches of push,
> with a mild degree of fade on repeat braking (no worse than my 86 VW GTI was)
> and I can (and have) in emergencys laid down a skid with them.  

My brakes are hard first push, and can lock the wheels up.  The problems I
have with them is that they are adequate for an unloaded 88.  Put four or
five hundred pounds of stuff in the back, and at 65 mph they are a lot
less so.  They fade pretty badly as well, though this might be a factor of
the shoes (Girling bonded).  They are also pretty high maintance; ignoring
adjustment, the farthest I have gotten between having to do something to
them is about 4000 miles.  I have not even thought about the brakes in my
toyota in 40,000 miles.  

David/mr sinclair

------------------------------

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 09:11:50 -0500 (EST)
Subject: getting the axle stub out

I broke an axle shaft the other day.  I have removed the axles, but still
have the broken bit in the diff.  Is there a way to get it out without
tearing the diff down?  I was thinking I might be able to drive it out
with a thinish bit of rod.  

David

------------------------------

From: Chris Stevens <chris_stevens@dc.sba.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 09:28:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Door Seals

Steve Fullwood wrote:

> I have looked through the archives for info but never found a definitive
> opinion.  Are the original door seals the end all be all?  I am considering

Last year I replaced all the door seals and window channels with parts
from British Pacific. Don't know if they were original or not (I had to
put some new holes in the seals to match various rivet holes) but they
work quite well. 

Chris Stevens
Towson, MD
1969 Series IIa 88" SW

------------------------------

From: "Herman L. Stude" <hermans@krts.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 08:44:24 -0600
Subject: Re: Koenig Winch Info....

> The sales info that I have claims that the winch (Model LR-592) has a
> pulling capcity of 8000lbs.
> The cable that they spec is a 6x19 c/w hemp center. What is available
> to me to use is a 7x19 1/4" or 7x19 3/8". Should I size down because
> I have an extra 19 strand (instead of the hemp) to 1/4" or should I
> go heavy duty and go up to 3/8"

Don't worry too much about the number of strands, but on the actual
capacity of the cable.  I use 5/16" galvanized on my LR-592.  I like
having 150' of cable.  When I bought it the cable it was totally rusted
didn't want that to happen again.

------------------------------

From: Duncan Phillips <dunk@ivanhoe.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 15:57:25 +0100
Subject: Re: getting the axle stub out

At 09:11 30/03/98 -0500, you wrote:
>I broke an axle shaft the other day.  I have removed the axles, but still
>have the broken bit in the diff.  Is there a way to get it out without
>tearing the diff down?  I was thinking I might be able to drive it out
>with a thinish bit of rod.  

Absolutely. I broke one last week (details on my web-page). We drove the
offending piece out with a screwdriver and hammer (from the opposite side).
This did involve taking the diff off though - I don't think you can do it
in situ.
 The whole process took less than 4 hours (including getting the new parts)
and was done at work on the car-park!! (fortunately the boss was away in
singapore!!).

*******************************
Duncan Phillips
1980 SWB SIII 'Evie'
http://Gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~cmtdmp/play/lrover/
*******************************
Big Bad n' Blue

------------------------------

From: GElam30092 <GElam30092@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 10:02:15 EST
Subject: roll cages

(With most humble apologies to the purists on the list!  I'm simply taking the
world's most versatile vehicle and making it more suitable for a taller
person!) 

I'm taking delivery of a Series III late this week and the first order of
business is driving it back from Spokane to Phoenix.  (Pray for nice
weather!).

Having survived a bad rear-ender 5 years ago, I still continue to have neck
problems to the point that another one would be difficult to deal with.  The
options are install  high back seats or a roll cage.  Actually I rather do
both and maybe explore moving the bulkhead back if that's possible.  There has
been some post recently but I'm not sure if anyone has actually done it in an
88".

I have some basic dimensions for a roll cage for a Series vehicle.  Seems like
someone mentioned here or on the Mendo Recce something about a company back
east who had the items cut, shaped and ready to ship.  All you do is have them
assembled and welded.   Anyone have any knowledge of such a company?

Does anyone recall such a company?   Anyone set their seats back an inch or
two by moving the bulkhead back?  Would installing a rollcage and fastening
the sides to it help maintain the integrity of the vehicle?

TIA,
Gerry Elam
PHX AZ

------------------------------

[digester: Removing section of:  X400-Content-Type: P2-1988 (22) ]
From: "Kenner, Dixon" <Dixon.Kenner@ms.rc.x400.gc.ca>
Date: 30 Mar 1998 10:00:00 -0500
Subject: Sea Rover conversions

> This is also why R.Davis charges ¤5,000 for the conversion.  He has
> engineered a way to mount the engine upsidedown and backwards so 
> that it will work in a LR.

He stole the idea off of Saab who are masters at running engines 
mounted backwards.  However, Sab engines don't run upside down
anymore.  They re-engineered that aspect out of the engines when they
found that the TR-7 engines they were initially using were found to run 
far better upside down than rightside up.  (Thousands of TR-7 owners
never realised this, but will believe it when they hear it)

Rgds,

Dixon
(yeah, once had a TR-7.  Sbab runs much, much better with the engine
in backwards, but not upside down)

------------------------------

[digester: Removing section of:  X400-Content-Type: P2-1988 (22) ]
From: "Kenner, Dixon" <Dixon.Kenner@ms.rc.x400.gc.ca>
Date: 30 Mar 1998 10:01:00 -0500
Subject: upside down fuel pumps

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 10:24:25 EST
Subject: Re: 88 brake improvement

In a message dated 3/30/98 9:09:15 AM Eastern Standard Time, david@infocom.com
writes:

<<  They are also pretty high maintance; ignoring
 adjustment, the farthest I have gotten between having to do something to
 them is about 4000 miles.  >>

I agree with this.  I have to do readjustments about once a year.

<<The problems I
have with them is that they are adequate for an unloaded 88.  Put four or
five hundred pounds of stuff in the back, and at 65 mph they are a lot
less so. >>

At freeway speeds (65 mph on a downhill stretch with tailwind otherwise 60)
and with weight, my problem is not so much with fade as it is with squirrelly
steering under heavy braking.  I attribute this more to the square, short
wheelbase and the fact I run on bias tires not radials.  I have never had the
pedal fade past halfway down.  I guess its a case of YMMV.

Nate

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 98 07:34:15 -0800
Subject: Re: Door Seals

;>I have looked through the archives for info but never found a definitive
;>opinion.  Are the original door seals the end all be all? 

I installed all now genuine Land Rover seals in my car last summer.  I 
will not do it again.  The seals gl in OK BUT...

The leading side door seals are next to impossible to tuck in properly 
and get them trained to stay in place when you shut the door.

Even new they do not seal well at all.

Everyone I have talked to loves the JC Whittney seals.  I will use them 
next time.

TeriAnn Wakeman              I subscribe to several high volume mail
Santa Cruz, California       Lists and do not read every posting. 
twakeman@cruzers.com         If you send me direct mail, please start
www.cruzers.com/~twakeman    subject with TW-  so I will know to read it.

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

From: john hess <jfhess@dcn.davis.ca.us>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 07:31:38 -0800
Subject: door seals

Hi,

I'm on digest mode and don't know if TeriAnn has replied yet.  She and I
replaced door seals last year and both of us are having a terrible time
with the door curve.  EVERY time you shut the door, youhave to carefully
work the rubber under the edge of the door.  You can't do this when you get
in, so part of the time, the seal is flopped wrong.  Yes, the book says
tape the eseal and it'll learn but I tried for a month on the passeneger
side and it didn't learn.  I'm not very happy with genuine in this case and
I think TeriAnn feels the same.  D90 stuff would seem to be a good way to
go.  Grind the little lip off and glue it in.

cheers,

John F Hess   jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us
Land Rover Dormobile web pages:
http://wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us/~jfhess/homepage.html
1968 Land Rover Dormobile "Elvis"
1960 swb pu "Stubby" (actually Katherine's),
1960 swb roadster "Slug" (Alex's) Slug needs everything, donations accepted

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 98 10:30:40 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Koenig Winch Info....

>>Don't worry too much about the number of strands,

yikes! Definitely WORRY about the number of strands. Wire ropes are made 
for all sorts of purposes and to different specifications. Use 7x19 
strand core galvanized steel rope (also known as aircraft cable). The 
first number (7) is the number of strands. The second is the number of 
wires in each strand. More wires means more flexibility and resistance to 
fatigue. The strand core means that the rope consists of 6 strands of 19 
wires wrapped around a 7th identical strand. there are other types of 
cores that aren't as good for winching, such as fibercores which add 
flexibility but get crushed on winch drums. There are stronger ropes but 
they are not galvanised. breaking strengths for 7x19 aircraft cable are:
1/4"  7,000lbs
5/16" 9,800lbs
3/8" 14,400lbs
these are the breaking strengths, not working loads. The rope will snap 
at these limits. The idea is that the winch will stall before it breaks 
the rope, i.e 5/16 rope on an 8,000 lb winch. This assumes the rope is in 
good nick. 
Expect to pay $1 a foot locally for the right cable. It can be had 
cheaper by ordering form Nebraska Surplus Center. Mine was $.32 a foot.
Don't have the number handy, call 1-800-555-1212 they should have it.
later
DaveB

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 98 10:40:19 EST
Subject: Re: roll cages

>I have some basic dimensions for a roll cage for a Series vehicle.  Seems 
>like someone mentioned here or on the Mendo Recce something about a company 
>back east who had the items cut, shaped and ready to ship.  All you do is 
>have them assembled and welded.   Anyone have any knowledge of such a 
>company?
>>Does anyone recall such a company? 

no but I'd like to hear more...

>Would installing a rollcage and fastening the sides to it help maintain the 
>integrity of the vehicle?

sure if its done right. look at the US d90's.

------------------------------

From: caloccia@senie.com
Date: 30 Mar 1998 15:41:32 -0000
Subject: re: parting out land rover for free

A couple weeks ago John posted he had a Rover which he was offering bits off
of for anyone who wanted to make the journey out to Utica.

Here's the story of the vultures decending and shredding the beast:

	Repairs/errs/

 -Bill

------------------------------

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 10:43:45 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Koenig Winch Info....

On Mon, 30 Mar 1998 dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org wrote:

> they are not galvanised. breaking strengths for 7x19 aircraft cable are:
 1/4"  7,000lbs
 5/16" 9,800lbs
 3/8" 14,400lbs
 these are the breaking strengths, not working loads. The rope will snap 
 at these limits. The idea is that the winch will stall before it breaks 
> the rope, i.e 5/16 rope on an 8,000 lb winch. This assumes the rope is in 

If these are actual breaking strengths, what are working loads.  5/16
cable on 8000 winch only gives a safety factor of about 25%, which really
scares me.  A broken wire cable is no fun.  

David

------------------------------

From: "Christopher J. Clanton" <clantoc@cscoe.ac.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 09:57:01 -0600
Subject: Mechanical vs. Electric OD's

My 1969 88" is about as bone stock as it comes.   FWH's
are the only non-factory option.  I am concerned about
potential engine wear at highway speeds (55 MPH),
and have been thinking about adding an overdrive.  I don't
really like the idea of "another tree in the forest".  All I see
mentioned on this list are mechanical OD's Fairey, Toro,
etc.   I've heard rumblings about electrical OD's from other
British car fans, but have never heard about them in the
context of LR's.

Any thoughts?  Pros/Cons.  I don't mind the noise, but
should I be worried about engine wear for 3500-5000
highway miles a year?

Thanks for any insight.

-cjc

*********************************************************
* Christopher Clanton               *   *     Andersen Consulting		
*
* clantoc@cscoe.ac.com           *   *     Minneapolis, MN USA		*
*                                             69 IIa 88				
*
*********************************************************  

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 98 11:06:01 EST
Subject: Re[4]: Koenig Winch Info....

>If these are actual breaking strengths, what are working loads.  5/16
>cable on 8000 winch only gives a safety factor of about 25%, which really 
>scares me.  A broken wire cable is no fun.  

The information that i am reading from says that "to determine the working 
load, the breaking strength must be reduced by a design factor or safety factor 
which varies deoending on the type of machine and installation used".
I guess we are relying on the winch manufacturers' design. Keep your cable in 
good shape and it should be ok for pulling your rover out of a hole.
For $50 I don't mind replacing the cable every coupla years until I learn to 
get it to wind right. Still haven't had much luck there.

later

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 08:29:54 -0800
Subject: New Defender in Car Magazine

Did anybody see the article & picture (concept drawing), in CAR
Magazine, of the next Defender due out in 2003?

Yuck.

Paul in Victoria

------------------------------

From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 08:44:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 88 brake improvement

RE LR Drum Brakes-

        The standard 88 brakes are small, non self-energising and use EE
linings. With power brakes and GG linings (I had them relined at a brake
shop), I found a big improvement in all of my past LRs, both in terms of
stopping power and fade.2-3 panic stops from 65mph instead of 1/2.
        Has anyone ever thought about transplanting the 10 x 2  or 11 x 2
inch self energised drum brakes from a Jeep ('60s-70s era) over to a LR.
Self energised brakes supply much better stopong power. I know you can buy
the 10 inch setups new still. These were good brakes!
        The problems I can see right off (other than the sacreligious
aspect) involve redrilling the drum for the Rrover pattern, and fitting the
backing plate (Rover 7-hole vs Jeep 6 hole). Ther emay be some other drums
from other rigs with more potential.

        Jim Allen

------------------------------

[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; 
boundary="------------6E336587398" ]
From: "Herman L. Stude" <hermans@krts.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 10:59:30 -0600
Subject: [Fwd: wire rope strength]

An old post thought might be of interest on this Koenig stuff.

--------------6E336587398
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: message/rfc822 ]

------------------------------

From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 09:05:42 -0800
Subject: Re: door seals

john hess wrote:

> I'm not very happy with genuine in this case and
> I think TeriAnn feels the same.  D90 stuff would seem to be a good way to
> go.  Grind the little lip off and glue it in.

I did Mathilda (109) with 110 door seals and they actually work rather well.
I've not bothered to glue them in place though.  The seals are constructed
for a squeeze fit onto the door "flange" once the lip is ground off.
BTW if you do this make sure you cover everything inside the vehicle with
a protective cover (blanket, tarp etc.) since there will be a lot of hot
metal flecks flying around that could ruin your paint, upholstery and/or window

glass.

cheers

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 19:37:25 +0200
Subject: Re:brakes

Is it possible to mount 109" backplates, brake components and drums to
the standard rear axle of a 88"?

Has anyone tried this? I was wondering about doing this to improve
braking on the 88"

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 98 12:42:45 EST
Subject: Re[2]: door seals

  re: grinding off the lip to use defender door seals.
  
  use a pair of electric or pnuematic shears. Much cleaner than a grinder.
  daveb

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 12:45:56 EST
Subject: Transfer Box Rebuild Addendum

Hi all,

If you're planning a transfer box rebuild (or are involved in the process), I
found out the following:

On the output shaft, the high gear thrust washer AND circlip can have
excessive wear.  If your tolerances are out and you try a new thrust washer
but are still out, replace both the thrust washer and circlip.  In my case,
trying to replace either independantly would not get me within spec but when I
replaced both, I was.

This possibility is not mentioned specifically in the workshop manual, but is
implied in the excellent series in LRO on rebuilding a series transmission.

Nate

------------------------------

From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 12:50:13 -0500
Subject: Kaiser Bill's Revenge

There were warnings, omens if you will, foretelling that the next Bentley
would be built by that nasty little German motorcycle company. For example,
a 48-ounce (family size) jar of Grey Poupon is selling for only $1.99 at
our local German-American grocery store.

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 20:08:26 +0200
Subject: Beemers buy the brits out!

Zeeks!

First Land Rover, then Rolls Royce and Bentley, whatever next? London
Cabs, jaguar, Red Routemaster double decker busses, ? what is the world
coming to?

Maybe it's just a case of "If you can't beat them, buy them"

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 13:18:22 EST
Subject: Re: Beemers buy the brits out!

In a message dated 3/30/98 1:15:33 PM Eastern Standard Time,
channel6@post2.tele.dk writes:

<< jaguar >>

Calm down Adrian, Ford already bought Jag.  <--NOT a joke

 I hear they're coming out with a Jaguar luxury line of light duty pickups
<---ONLY A JOKE!!!

Nate

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 10:28:30 -0800
Subject: RE: Beemers buy the brits out!

And don't the Malaysian's own Lotus??  (GM used to...)

Paul./

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 98 10:33:17 -0800
Subject: Thanks and blush

>Having said that, the Green Rover is a fine machine, and if TeriAnn says
>something works well, then you can bet your sweet ass it does.  
;
>C
;
Blush

Chris, Thanks for the fine supporting statement.  Considering my latest 
foot in mouth posting about the number of snail cams on an 88 it's not as 
true as I would like it to be.

Perhaps we can amend it to saying that I know 2-1/4L petrol, positive 
earth, two door 109s really really well, Dormobile interior furniture 
well, and I know a lot of misc Rover parts that can "improve" 109 two 
door LRs.  I also know a number of ways to strengthen said car so that it 
would be less apt to break.  Lets also say that Since I have successfully 
converted a 109 pickup into a long range RV with better off road 
capabilities than the car had straight from the factory, I have some 
excellent (in my opinion) ideas on how to go about making expedition 
conversions and enhancements.  

I know very little about any part, assembly or feature that is not the 
same as the equivalent on a 2-1/4L petrol, positive earth two door 109. I 
frequently let the world know about that when I make a statement about a 
feature that is different from my 109.  

20 years of working on only one kind of land Rover has left me with a 
limited viewpoint.  Though, I suppose if someone wanted to give me a 
series IIB cab forward, a 110 two door, or a rolled Range Rover with good 
frame, suspension and drive train, I would be willing to enlarge my 
viewpoint ;^)

Thank you for saying that The Green Rover is a really fine machine.  I 
have worked very hard on her and am very happy with the way she has 
turned out (except for power and gearing).

I believe that if you looked at all the Land Rovers that are: 

- modified for long range expedition travel 

- Designed to keep two people in the field far from support for a long 
time

- have better off road capability than it came from the factory

- Is not a cab forward, forward control, or ambulance

That The Green Rover could be counted as among the best of category in 
the world.  And yes I believe this and I'm very proud of it.  

I just wish I would stop finding parts that need to be reinforced from 
stock whenever I stress test the car.

Thanks again for your enthusiastic support!!!

TeriAnn Wakeman              I subscribe to several high volume mail
Santa Cruz, California       Lists and do not read every posting. 
twakeman@cruzers.com         If you send me direct mail, please start
www.cruzers.com/~twakeman    subject with TW-  so I will know to read it.

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 98 10:33:35 -0800
Subject: Re: 88 brake improvement

;>I personally stick with the original 10" brakes until someday if I 
choose to
;>go to a dual line vaccuum assisted system.  At that point, I would try 
a few
;>trucks with the 109 brakes and see if  the slightly (10% ) bigger drums 
make
;>much of a difference.
;>
;>Nate

The only advantage of dual circuit brakes is in case of a failure.  I 
have had two catastrophic brake failures in my 109 caused by pin hole 
rust through.  neither were fun, but no one was hurt and nothing was 
broken besides the brakes.  The brakes failed on my very first car on a 
steep windy downhill.  Doing my best James Dean imitation, I bailed out 
the driver's door just before the car went off a cliff.  I tend to be 
obsessive about brakes. I have also completely replaced all the steel 
tubing in my LR.

The advantage of Land Rover power assisted brakes is that you get more 
braking power for a given amount of foot pressure.

The 109 system has a wheel cylinder actively pushing each shoe into the 
drum.  The spacing for each shoe can be set.  Also, the front brakes for 
1967 and newer 109s are even larger than you think.  If you ever get a 
chance, compare an 88 front brake shoe with one for a '67 or newer 109.  
The difference in size is impressive.

But if you are happy with the braking ability of your stock 88 system and 
feel that is is safe enough, by all means stick with what works for you.

TeriAnn Wakeman              I subscribe to several high volume mail
Santa Cruz, California       Lists and do not read every posting. 
twakeman@cruzers.com         If you send me direct mail, please start
www.cruzers.com/~twakeman    subject with TW-  so I will know to read it.

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 98 10:33:42 -0800
Subject: Re: roll cages

Gerry,

If I may make a suggestion, why don't you look at the US spec D90 for 
ideas?  They have removed the behind seat bulkhead. Look at the 
reinforment that they have used in place of the bulkhead. 

The US spec D90 seats are outragiously expensive but they are a LOT more 
comfortable for taller drivers than the series seats are and they do not 
need a bulkhead to lean against.  They will also bolt onto your seat box. 
 If you want to use a high back series seat, you can use the cross bar 
that comes on the 109 four door to hold the seat up.

For roll bars:

- You could purchase a US spec D90 cage and install it

- Have a local campany with roll bar experience fabricate one for you

- purchase a genuine double bar military Land Rover roll bar.  I think 
Jim Gwen in Spokane may have a spare that he might sell.  Walter is going 
to the UK soon.  If he actually brings Bertha back at the end of his 
trip, maybe you can talk him into placing a used LR military roll bar in 
the back for the trip home.

TeriAnn Wakeman              I subscribe to several high volume mail
Santa Cruz, California       Lists and do not read every posting. 
twakeman@cruzers.com         If you send me direct mail, please start
www.cruzers.com/~twakeman    subject with TW-  so I will know to read it.

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 13:36:37 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Beemers buy the brits out!

On Mon, 30 Mar 1998, Adrian Redmond wrote:

> First Land Rover, then Rolls Royce and Bentley, whatever next? London
> Cabs, jaguar, Red Routemaster double decker busses, ? what is the world
> coming to?

Does this make Morgan the last wholly british-owned british car company?
You know, if they still used BS and Whitworth bolts, none of this would
have ever happened.

david

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 13:48:16 EST
Subject: Re: 88 brake improvement

In a message dated 3/30/98 1:36:27 PM Eastern Standard Time,
twakeman@cruzers.com writes:

<< >I personally stick with the original 10" brakes until someday if I 
 choose to
 ;>go to a dual line vaccuum assisted system.  At that point, I would try 
 a few
 ;>trucks with the 109 brakes and see if  the slightly (10% ) bigger drums 
 make
 ;>much of a difference.
 ;>
 ;>Nate
 
 The only advantage of dual circuit brakes is in case of a failure.  I 
 have had two catastrophic brake failures in my 109 caused by pin hole 
 rust through.  neither were fun, but no one was hurt and nothing was 
 broken besides the brakes.  The brakes failed on my very first car on a 
 steep windy downhill.  Doing my best James Dean imitation, I bailed out 
 the driver's door just before the car went off a cliff.  I tend to be 
 obsessive about brakes. I have also completely replaced all the steel 
 tubing in my LR. >>

Totally agree.  Exactly my reasoning too, --except for the James Dean
part--personally never had brakes fail but I did drive a 2 ton 1963 Dodge
Horse Van (3 horse) which had single line brakes, no power assist.  If a brake
line had gone out on it...  well I shudder to think.

At the time of my frameover, I didn't have easy access to a dual line system
(read $$$) and I didn't want to cut up the wing, so I just replaced all the
lines--steel and flex, the master cylinder, shoes and drums.

On the current Rover project, it will definitely use the servo unit and  dual
line  setup

Nate

------------------------------

From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 11:06:09 -0800
Subject: Re: Beemers buy the brits out!

BTW, I heard on NPR (US public radio) that that old f-ed up DDR car
company is thinking about making London Cabs.

C

Adrian Redmond wrote:
> Zeeks!
> First Land Rover, then Rolls Royce and Bentley, whatever next? London
> Cabs, jaguar, Red Routemaster double decker busses, ? what is the world
> coming to?
> Maybe it's just a case of "If you can't beat them, buy them"

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 25 lines)]
> Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
> ---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 14:35:26 EST
Subject: Re: Beemers buy the brits out!

In a message dated 3/30/98 1:42:13 PM, you wrote:

>Does this make Morgan the last wholly british-owned british car company?
>You know, if they still used BS and Whitworth bolts, none of this would
>have ever happened.

>david

Morgan, Marcos(sportscars), maybe Caterham (they make cars too, don't they?),
the list dwindles, doesn't it. What would really be great is if Bosch
swallowed up Lucas (and then Magneti Marelli went bankrupt) and revised all
their stuff and offered retro-fits with Bosch components. Yeah, likely story,
but one can dream...

pat.
93  110

------------------------------

From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 12:48:26 -0800
Subject: Re: Beemers buy the brits out!

Adrian Redmond wrote:

> First Land Rover, then Rolls Royce and Bentley, whatever next? London
> Cabs, jaguar, Red Routemaster double decker busses, ? what is the world
> coming to?

Well, actually... first Jaguar, owned by Ford for the last several (ten??)
years

cheers

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 98 15:42:40 EST
Subject: 2.5 v 2.25

So. What are the differences in power between the 2.5 and 2.25 petrol?

DaveB

------------------------------

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 15:54:44 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Beemers buy the brits out!

On Mon, 30 Mar 1998, SPYDERS wrote:

> Morgan, Marcos(sportscars), maybe Caterham (they make cars too, don't they?),
> the list dwindles, doesn't it. What would really be great is if Bosch
> swallowed up Lucas (and then Magneti Marelli went bankrupt) and revised all
> their stuff and offered retro-fits with Bosch components. Yeah, likely story,
> but one can dream...

Nightmarish, more likely.  I haven't had much in the way of problems with
Lucas bits, almost all of which have been failures due to the *#!# bullet
connectors not having strain relief, and series IIA wiper motors.  My
experiences with Bosch have been much worse, relays that didn't work out
of the box, fuse blocks that wouldn't work but when you tried trouble
shoot the circuit.  

David

------------------------------

From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 16:07:07 -0500
Subject: Exhausting question

>Steve Falkowski wrote:

>I'm trying to install a new exhaust system on a SII
>88and the problem is, I can't get the front pipe to clear the PTO and drive
>shaft for the winch. Has anyone got a quick fix for this or do I have to
>pull the PTO and shafts? Thanks in advance

Are you doing this lying on the ground?  The solution might be as simple as
using a lift to give yourself more wiggle room to swing the pipes.  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 16:07:11 -0500
Subject: Shoes

Paul Quin wrote:

>>Nope, just one cam.  It controls the leading shoe's position.  Perhaps
>someone could explain why the trailing shoe doesn't need one??

'cause the parsimonious engineers at Auntie Rover figured you didn't need
'em.  The rotation of the tire will force the trailing shoe away from the
drum, and they figured they'd leave well enough alnoe and just let it
float.  The leading shoe, by comparison, is retracted by the spring.  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 16:07:08 -0500
Subject: Wire rope sizes

Peter Rosvall" <rosvall@mailserv.nbnet.nb.ca> wrote:

>The cable that they spec is a 6x19 c/w hemp center. What is available 
>to me to use is a 7x19 1/4" or 7x19 3/8". Should I size down because 
>I have an extra 19 strand (instead of the hemp) to 1/4" or should I 
>go heavy duty and go up to 3/8"

The purpose of the hemp is to hold lubrication/rust prevenative such as
diesel fuel or light oil.  It adds no appreciable strength.  I'd go up to
3/8" as 1/4" will be dangerously undersized.  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 13:06:10 -0800
Subject: RE: Shoes

Sandy writes:
	The rotation of the tire will force the trailing shoe away from
the
	drum, and they figured they'd leave well enough alnoe and just
let it
	float.  The leading shoe, by comparison, is retracted by the
spring.  Cheers

Does this mean that the brakes might not release properly when you are
moving backwards??!

Another reason not to touch the brakes when careening down a hill
backwards after failing to make the top!!??

Paul. 

------------------------------

From: "Dries Venter" <ventera@ilink.nis.za>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 23:11:46 +0200
Subject: unsubscribe

------------------------------

From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 19:17:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Koenig Winch Info....

Peter & Julie Rosvall wrote:
> > Date:          Sun, 29 Mar 1998 10:51:16 -0400
> > From:          john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
>          [ truncated by lro-lite (was 11 lines)]
> > will not be exceeded. This being the case 5/16 cable is more than
> > sufficient and will allow a greater length to carried on the drum.
> > I use 5/16 cable on my 8000 lb Warn and have few problems.
> The sales info that I have claims that the winch (Model LR-592) has a
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
> go heavy duty and go up to 3/8"
> Peter

Use the 3/8 you will hardly notice the extra weight  and 1/4 will not be
any where near strong enough for 8000lbs pull. I wouldn't want to use
hemp core anyway, it isn't very strong. Other winch manufacturers
specify air craft cable and while this is very flexible it isn't as
strong as some of the other cables available ( at least according to my
local wire, rope and cable store ) and is more expensive.
  Happy winching    John and Muddy

------------------------------

From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 19:36:34 -0400
Subject: Re: getting the axle stub out

You certainly can remove the stub  with the diff in situ. I made an
extractor from a hayrake tooth and a piece of water pipe, insert the
tooth in past the spider gear pin from the un broken side, a swift clout
with a good sized hammer and the stub is deposited in the axle tube
ready to be pulled out with a strong magnet. Then you must compare the
two ends of the shaft to see if any bits may remain in the diff, usually
you are OK but if the beast was driven any great distance then there are
likely to be grindings in the oil.You know what to do then!
    John and MuddyDuncan Phillips wrote:
> At 09:11 30/03/98 -0500, you wrote:
> >I broke an axle shaft the other day.  I have removed the axles, but still
> >have the broken bit in the diff.  Is there a way to get it out without
>          [ truncated by lro-lite (was 6 lines)]
> >tearing the diff down?  I was thinking I might be able to drive it out
> >with a thinish bit of rod.
> Absolutely. I broke one last week (details on my web-page). We drove the
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 22 lines)]
> *******************************
> Big Bad n' Blue

------------------------------

From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 19:50:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Kaiser Bill's Revenge

Ned Heite wrote:
> There were warnings, omens if you will, foretelling that the next Bentley
> would be built by that nasty little German motorcycle company. For example,
> a 48-ounce (family size) jar of Grey Poupon is selling for only $1.99 at
> our local German-American grocery store.

Right that does it! I am never buying a German motorcycle again!!!
 Hands up all those who will join the boycott.
     John and Muddy

------------------------------

From: Keith Mohlenhoff <krm@nj.paradyne.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 18:54:51 -0500
Subject: Temporary axel breather

Hello;
In preparation for off-roading this past Sunday, I discovered that by
axel breather was stuck, it wouldn't  rattle and it was stuck open. I
twisted the top off and removed the shield. I couldn't get the ball
bearing clean enough so that it would make a good seal. The local
hardware store didn't have any ball bearings  which fit, but they did
have some tubing (5/16 OD I think, I could have used my windshield
washer tubing in a pinch) that fit snugly in the hole so I bought some
footage. I used a small screw through the side hole of the breather to
make a mechanical connection with the tubing and sealed it all with
silicon goo. Used wire ties to hole the tubing in place along the axel. 

Plan on replacing it when the new part arrives, didn't like that the
tubing protruded from the top and too much of a bend would kink the
tubing. I think the real thing comes out at a 90 degree angle.

Keith R. Mohlenhoff

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 19:05:15 EST
Subject: Re: Revenge on Kaiser Bun

In a message dated 3/30/98 6:52:03 PM, you wrote:

>> There were warnings, omens if you will, foretelling that the next Bentley
>> would be built by that nasty little German motorcycle company. For example,
>> a 48-ounce (family size) jar of Grey Poupon is selling for only $1.99 at
>> our local German-American grocery store.
>Right that does it! I am never buying a German motorcycle again!!!
> Hands up all those who will join the boycott.

Ok, not that I buy Grey Poop-on in great quantity anyway, but I certainly
won't now. Same for german motorbikes. Thanks, John & Muddy for saving me from
having to buy one. I always thought Grey-P was for the RR crowd. A fellow LRO
at a florida rally, with similar sense of humor, leans out of his SIII and
asks me "Pardon me, do you have any *Coleman's*..."  It ought to be nominated
as the Official Mustard of the Land Rover contingent for the next British Car
meet, and I'd like to see LRO's put up a Colemanites vs. Pouponers tug-of-war
too... There's a sponsorship deal waiting to happen...

pat.
93  110

------------------------------

From: Solihull <Solihull@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 19:06:57 EST
Subject:  Re: Kaiser Bill's Revenge

Lest we forget.......Bill's grandmama was 
hats off! moment of silence!
Queen Victoria, her royal self.
Cheers!!
John Dillingham
Canton, GA

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 19:08:10 EST
Subject: Re:  Temporary axel breather

I hate to recommend spending money, but since it isn't mine, here goes:

The D-90 axle breather kits are far superior to the ball&cage trick on S-rigs,
IMHO. Ask on the list for agreeing/dissenting opinions...

Pat
93  110

------------------------------

From: Benjamin Smith <bens@psasolar.colltech.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 18:16:25 -0600
Subject: FW Top truck challenge

	Someone forwarded to me that the list of Four Wheeler top truck 
challenge contestants are out.  There is *one* Land Rover on the list.  That 
happens to be RRO list member Rick Larson's D90.  I've driven a lot with Rick.
(Including a mud run last weekend).  He's a very good driver with a very
capable truck.  So if any of you get the magazine, vote for his D90 (page 43,
#6) and maybe we'll actually see a LR get to the top 10 and get to drive
in the challenge.  Thanks.

Ben
--
Benjamin Smith                   "If I were running such a contest, I would
Collective Technologies          specifically eliminate any entries from Ben 
    (a pencom company)           involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere. 
Land-  : '72 Series III 88"      He'd drive it up the Amazon Basin for a half
 -Rover: '94 Discovery           can of Jolt and a stale cookie." --K. Archie

------------------------------

From: Wesley Harris <wharris@midmon.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 19:25:36 -0600
Subject: Re: 2.5 v 2.25

At 03:42 PM 3/30/98 EST, you wrote:
>So. What are the differences in power between the 2.5 and 2.25 petrol?
>DaveB

Dave-

You are a tenacious man and I've noticed that no one on the list seems to be
paying you any mind.  C'mon you yobbos!!  Help my man Dave out here!
Certainly one of our UK brethern has first-hand experience with the 2.25 -
2.5 comparison.

Be patient, Dave.  The ice sheets advance then withdraw, moutains are
weathered to plains, John's dog Buddy will quit barking and you'll have the
answer to your question (well, maybe Buddy won't quit barking)... 

Cheers!

Wes
'64 IIA 88 (almost there)  

------------------------------

From: Sean Morrison <seanm@dnai.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 16:37:11 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Series I Tool Kit

Does anyone out there know what originaly was included in the tool-kit
that came with the Series I? 

Thanks,
Sean

'57 107" Series I Pickup

------------------------------

From: "MARY THOMSON" <denthomson@sprint.ca>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 20:58:07 -0500
Subject: Re: 2.25 Petrol/Diesel Swap

If you have never had or driven a Diesel I would strongly suggest that you
find someone which one and go for a drive and you will see what a
difference there is. Less road power/more noise. For off road use the work
well , a little low on power but they lug real well. I liked taking my wife
for a drive because I couldn't hear a word she had to say.
                 Peter.  (Kangaroo)    

----------
> From: Elwyny <Elwyny@aol.com>
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: 2.25 Petrol/Diesel Swap
> Date: Sunday, March 29, 1998 8:08 PM
> Hi Folks

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Hi Folks
> One day, I'll get use to the everyday use of a landrover!  I've just
managed
> to seize up my current 2.25 petrol, due to a severe water loss i failed
to
> spot... it's only been in for 3 months! barely 1200 miles on the clock!
> Anyway, as i will be replacing it (rather than leave it as a useless
> Subject: 2.25 Petrol/Diesel Swap
ornament
> on the drive) i have a freind who might sell me one of his LR 2.25
Diesels and
> i was wondering if anyone could tell me a bit about it, the good and bad
> points, and anything i need to take into consideration, like pulling
power,
> consumption, use etc.
> I would be most greatful.
> Elwyn York
> Temporarily Disabled..... :-(
> Hi Folks

------------------------------

From: "MARY THOMSON" <denthomson@sprint.ca>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 21:06:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Series I Tool Kit

Yes.

----------
> From: Sean Morrison <seanm@dnai.com>
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: Series I Tool Kit
> Date: Monday, March 30, 1998 7:37 PM
> Does anyone out there know what originaly was included in the tool-kit
> that came with the Series I? 

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)]
> Sean
> '57 107" Series I Pickup

------------------------------

From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 21:24:44 -0500
Subject: Speedos

The information on speedo numbers that wre listed in the last post wre for
series vehicles. The sam eprinciples apply to the coil sprung, but the
numbers in the speedo are different.

 Peter, it looks like someone just took a fancy to another speedo and did
not realise that there are differences in the internals.  A change to 1400
or so will be more accurate than you have now if the gearing is still standard
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 19:20:55 -0800
Subject: Re: Series I Tool Kit

Sean Morrison wrote:

> Does anyone out there know what originaly was included in the tool-kit
> that came with the Series I?

Inside a "hessian roll" were at least:

A screwdriver formed from a looped handle of metal
A small hand held grease gun
A small adjustable wrench (a little like a monkey wrench)
A spark plug wrench on a swing handle
Snub nose pliers
An assortment of spanners (3?)

I think the book The Original Land Rover Series 1 has a list somewhere

I don't think these tools were restricted to S1s because I've got a
few of them from a family source.  My bet is they were general issue
on some British cars  (Rover saloon cars??).

cheers

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: Winn Bearden <wbearden@americus.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 22:25:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Door Seals

Another question to add on top...  how is the best way to do the 90 deg.
window corner with the new style seals?  Just wrap it around  and leave a
dimple, or cut out a 45 deg. and glue it together?

Steve Fullwood wrote:

> To all,
> I have looked through the archives for info but never found a definitive
> opinion.  Are the original door seals the end all be all?  I am considering
> three options:
> 1) Original door seals about $200 for both doors!! RN and BP
> 2) Atlantic british aftermarket seals $89
> 3) JC Whitney tubular w/flat backing per Terri Ann in the archives $ not
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)]
> Steve Fullwood
> 61 Ser II/IIA (bits o' both) 88" softtop

--
Winn Bearden
P.O. Box 464
Americus, GA 31709
912-924-6513 (H)
912-928-4984 (CELL)

------------------------------

From: caloccia@senie.com
Date: 31 Mar 1998 05:46:20 -0000
Subject: re door seals / roll cages

Door Seals:
	I went with the Defender style door seal, but instead of glueing it
in, purchased (a mightly long roll) of window lace retainer - this is the
stuff that is meant to hold it in place. I've got a '63 IIa and did not
grind the lip off - the seal fits within the groove formed by the lip,
and the retainer is meant to go over that thickness (about 1/4" including
the lip and seal material).  It took a little work on the retainer, as it
had like a raised rubber lip on both sides, facing in - the latter didn't
seat well on the back side of the aluminium lip.

	Had I not purchased the original seal, I might be tempted to go with
a standard american replacment seal which has the window lace retainer
bonded/formed to the sealing rubber, it ought to work nearly as well. The only
thing I haven't finished yet is the mounting for the seal at the bottom of
the doors.  I'm not sure if there is a trim piece missing or what.

	I think that using the Defender seal, you could also rivit it with
some success in a pinch, by using large-flange rivits. 

Roll Cages:
	A handy reference on the design and attachment of cages in Land Rovers
will be found in the Association of Rover Clubs, UK Handbook. They specify
regulations of construction and attachemnt for CCV an RTV Trials, in some
respects they may seem a bit crude, but you have to give it to them that 
they have many, many years of field experience in the use of same.  If you
have to have one fabricated, I'd recommend going to someone who does cages
to spec for CalClub or Sports Car Club of America race cars - they should
have the materials, methods, and experience to do it properly. Get a 
recommendation from a racer friend.

    (check out his pages at: http://members.aol.com/weissracin/asbuild.htm )

	A racer friend of mine builds SCCA cages for fun and to support his
racing habit, so I know where my roll cage is getting done :-)  One of the
latest developments being incorporated in SCCA racer cage designs is adding
gussets at some of the key joints. This was after they witnessed a cage being
sheared on the second impact at the track. The vehicle rolled first, remained
in the line and was hit by a following vehicle, the latter impact wasted
the rear of the cage and caused a shear fracture in the main hoop at a cross
point behind the driver. Luckly for the driver, the cage functioned twice, 
and that was as much as was required that day. 

    Cheers,
          Bill Caloccia			wpc@Caloccia.Net
	 http://www.Caloccia.Net/wpc/
				  R
       http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/
   R  1  3  2wd  H OD		  D
   +--|--|   o   | |           L  3	Land Rovers First
      2  4  4wd  L N           |  2	    because
   '63 SII  RHD 88"            H  1	Land Rovers Last
      793-PTA            '90 RR County

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 08:27:48 +0000
Subject: Re: Kaiser Bill's Revenge

There was talk on the radio lastnight of British Motor Works making a Rolls
Royce sports car.
Doesn't sound right, like a Land Rover Roadster...

There is at least one company group trying to keep it British, but they a
cat in hells chance, really.
I can't see them matching the price + $1bn investment.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

eheite@dmv.com on 03/30/98 05:50:13 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Kaiser Bill's Revenge

There were warnings, omens if you will, foretelling that the next Bentley
would be built by that nasty little German motorcycle company. For example,
a 48-ounce (family size) jar of Grey Poupon is selling for only $1.99 at
our local German-American grocery store.

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 08:30:00 +0000
Subject: Re: Beemers buy the brits out!

Errrr, Jaguar has been owned by Ford a couple of years now!

don't know the owners of Routemaster.
Bentley was bought out in the laste '20s wasn't it?   (by RR!)

We still have most of the F1 industry though.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

channel6@post2.tele.dk on 03/30/98 06:08:26 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Beemers buy the brits out!

Zeeks!
First Land Rover, then Rolls Royce and Bentley, whatever next? London
Cabs, jaguar, Red Routemaster double decker busses, ? what is the world
coming to?
Maybe it's just a case of "If you can't beat them, buy them"

Adrian Redmond
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
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------------------------------

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