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From: Jarvis 64 <Jarvis64@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 07:08:41 EST
Subject: Re:  seats

I asked about seats last week--no responses yet.  Does that mean nobody knows
of any decent substitute in the States?  Drove over 900 miles in the last
three days (NY, RI, Mass, VT, NH,  and Ont!)--about 500-600 on Saturday in
that big snowstorm the NE got hit w/, and my butt was killing me after about
10 hours behind the wheel.  I'm young, but I won't be for long if I keep
having weekends like this.

Any seats out there?

PS--saw a SIIA 88" w/ a pickup top in Burlington VT Saturday afternoon--only
series vehicle sighting of the trip.  

Bill Rice 
64 SIIA 109

------------------------------

From: Jarvis 64 <Jarvis64@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 07:08:46 EST
Subject: Re:  1 ton shackles

I just got some 1-ton shackles that I'll put on my 109 once I get the used
Salisbury I just picked up all ready to go.  Will I need to modify the frame
where the propshafts go through it to allow for the steeper propshaft angle
(due both to the shortening of the shaft, the Salisbury, and the lift)

Bill Rice
64 SIIA 109

------------------------------

From: "Bod (Ian Boddison)" <bod.glass@mail.easynet.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 12:35:43 +0000
Subject: Re: HELP

> over-adjusting 'em) It's still a double-pumper. I'm going to replace
> the soft lines next, any other ideas? Is it possible that the soft
> lines are expanding enough to do this? they don't seem all that
> old....  Any help would be greatly appreciated. 

Sounds very familiar!!!

When I first bought Clifford (Trusty White LWB) the pedal wsa 
slightly spongy.  One weekend I thought I would just bleed the system 
and correct the fault.   Bad move!!!

The rear bleed screw broke straight off and I ended up changing 
everything - all slave cylinders and shoes (for good measure) and 
then the master cylinder as is so often the case having changed a 
slave.

I could not get all the air out despite repeated bleeding.

As Clifford had been unusable for two weeks I decided to get the 
local brake 'experts' to do the job and fix it.  They took a further 
week to find any fault!  Where brake lines join or attach to a 
cylinder or other fitting, they have a flare at their end.  These 
flares are either male or female.  Usually a cylinder has a female 
and the pipe that feeds it has a male flare.  The front cylinders are 
arranged that way but the rears are the other way around (female of 
the pipe).  At some point in Cliffords past someone had put a male 
flare on the pipe end and then tightened into the male fitting on the 
cylinder so tight that it sealed!  Now when I changed the cylinder I 
was trying to mate a (deformed) male pipe fitting to a (new) male 
cylinder fitting which did not seal.  However, the fit was good 
enough for no fluid to come out - only air to be admitted.

So bleeding was impossible!

Also remember when assembling brake pipe unions that the maximum 
torque specified by the manafacturers is only 7lb/ft.  That is not 
alot - a standard spanner pulled gently by a little finger!

When the correct flare was put on the end of the pipe the brakes 
could be bled OK.  The pedal is still a little spongy but I think 
that is due to worn snails on the front - I have changed the rears 
but not the fronts.

Cheers,       Bod.

1971 LWB  -  [Clifford]
Petrol    SIIA

Rights of Way Officer
(Manchester & District LandRover Club)

  

  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 08:03:48 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: Brakes Help

Dear all,
I have often found that if your brakes work perfectly after one pump, you
have no fade, your master cyl. is good, all other parts have been inspected
it sometimes leads to the brake drums themselves. I didn't see that on the
list of things you checked. If they are too large (worn out) you need an
extra pump to move the pads out and then the brakes work fine.
Just another thing to check.

From: Mike Smith,  EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Subject: Re: Thule racks
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 09:05:20 -0300

Hi all - I need a roof rack for windsurfing gear, but the Thule 
rack I had on my last car doen't fit because of the height of the 
LR roof above the gutter. If any of you have fitted the 
appropriate type (simple two separate cross bars with taller end 
brackets) I would be grateful to know the model number. I'll be 
in Miami in June and could try to source it by then.
TIA

Allan.
D90 with the SW roof.

------------------------------

From: Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca
Subject: Land Rover Lodge and The Orphans
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 08:21:00 -0500

Andy Blackley wrote, " I don't think that those of us who own the
"orhins"  are invited to the party"

Nevertheless, wouldn't it serve LRNA right if we managed to make a
significant number of the 900 visitors composed of "orphin" owners.
Coveralls, smelling of EP90 and whatever other distinguishing
characteristics we can muster.

Keep a watch for registration details as these become available.

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 08:30:01 EST
Subject: Re: Hub nut socket?

In a message dated 3/23/98 12:02:54 AM Eastern Standard Time, roverboy@gis.net
writes:

<<  I know you can get these at all the usual LR parts houses, but has anyone
 found a hub nut socket at a more local establishment, or in more sturdy
 guise? Thanks... >>

Go to a good (read NOT Western Auto, or similar) auto parts store.  Where they
have all their lovely sockets and wrenches hanging, you'll also find heavy
duty hub sockets.  Expect to pay 8 - 20 dollars depending on quality.

Nate

------------------------------

From: Ian Otty <imo@kerridge.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 98 13:50:10 GMT
Subject: SER: Diesel glow plugs & starting

Folks,

I have for years run a 2.25 diesel & due to a lack of funds had to 
resort to some abuse to get me home in an emergency. If any of your 
series type glow plugs die then you can bypass the dead one by 
removing the insulating ring between the power leads and bolting 
them together again on top of the insulator ring so that both power 
leads are as one. This effectively removes the dead glow plug from 
the circuit and allows you to start on three which usually works 
fine. I have had to do this in the worst of British winters (-15) 
and its had never failed to get me home.

You do need to replace the broken one ASAP and buy some spares as 
the others go pretty soon afterwards!

You should always have a good battery when running the diesel, I 
always carried two fully charged heavy duty commercial types(1300 
cold cranking amps). One used as a spare. This came in useful when 
the alternator packed up - I managed to run the vehicle for 3 days 
without an alternator, not good practise but useful when your stuck 
miles from any supplier.

Ian Otty
Series 3 hybrid - 'the shed'

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 08:59:10 -0500
Subject: Good used-parts suppliers?

Hello UK!

I'm going to be in your dear country over the next weekend - but
unfortunately won't be able to make Sodbury because of a time conflict...
bummer.

With this, the imperative becomes - where can I find a good new/used parts
dealer without running out to whe wilds of Wales or the like? I'm after the
usual US-unavailable used goodies - namely anything that strikes me that I
can stuff in a suitcase. I also need to buy an engine overhaul while I'm
there.

A 2.5 petrol manifold would be nice.....8*)

But seriously, I'm going to be in Leeds, the Midlands and down as far as
Staines (have to go visit Lotus...8*(  ). Any and all suggestions are
welcome.

          ajr

------------------------------

From: "Bod (Ian Boddison)" <bod.glass@mail.easynet.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 14:10:41 +0000
Subject: Re: Brakes Help

> have been inspected it sometimes leads to the brake drums
> themselves. I didn't see that on the list of things you checked. If
> they are too large (worn out) you need an extra pump to move the
> pads out and then the brakes work fine. Just another thing to check.

That can be easily checked - just over adjust the shoes so the brakes 
are hard on and see if you have a good hard pedal.

Do not forget to slacken off the adjusters before driving!

Cheers,           Bod.
  
     

------------------------------

Date: 	Mon, 23 Mar 1998 15:24:53 +0100
From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Subject: she is alive!

Finally after hours of bleeding and short circut tracking my Landrover
decided to wake up. Many thanks to those who gave me advice! I can now say
I know how to bleed my fuel system next time it is needed... 

/Peter
_____________________________________________________

Peter Thoren
Work:  Department of Genetics
       Uppsala University
       Box 7003; S-750 07 Uppsala
       Phone: +46 18 67 12 69
       Fax:   +46 18 67 27 05
       e-mail peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se

Home:  Långmyrtorp
       740 20 Vänge
       Phone/fax: +46 18 39 20 56
       e-mail: same as above
______________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 07:04:28 +0000
From: Cas Stimson <cstimson@gte.net>
Subject: 4.6 Engine

Does anyone know if you can exchange the 3.9 engine that came with the
1993 110 with the newer 4.6 engines?  I was on a Land Rover trek this
weekend and a gentleman told me it could be done without modifying the
engine compartment.  I love my 110 but I use it to carry a lot of cargo
and it labors quite a bit when it's fully loaded or towing.

Thanks

Cas Stimson

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 09:15:36 -0800
From: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Subject: Re: SIII Gearbox problem

At 08:29 PM 3/22/98 -0800, you wrote:
>Hello,
>        My recently rebuilt Series III gearbox has developed some
>interesting symptoms.  It seems that if I allow it to sit for a day I will
>not beable to select any gear without reving the engine hard.  After 30
>miles or so it will change gear as usual.  As long as I drive it the
>following morning it will continue to act appropriatly.  The hydraulics are
>new and the fluid is Castrol GTLMA.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
>inability to shift would persist regardless.  There is some clutch judder
>but this occurs without apparent pattern.  
---
Henry,
	Just a thought that early on if oil (engine or trans) gets on a clutch 
it
gets very grabby but as time goes on it gets slippery and eventualy slips.
Revving may be un-sticking it and the juddering may be further evidence of
oil contamination. You might want to check your fluids.
HTH   Cheers

                                                 

Peter
'60 109SW
'64 88
'70 88 (in pieces)
'73 88 (driver)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 07:43:08 -0800
From: john hess <jfhess@dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: MB diesel in a LR

others have written:
>Could you speak to the pros and cons of using a Mercedes 300 I-5 on a 109.
>I've spoken to a mechanic familiar with LR's and with diesels who made the
>suggestion.

I have toyed with this idea before myself. My parents are MB diesel fans so
I've had some experience with them. These diesels are pretty much

I add,

Doug Shipman picked up a MB 300 D engine and hopes to someday put it in a
109 for duty as a shop truck.  Most immediate problme he sees is the oil
pan clearance of the front axle.  Needless to say, if Doug does it, it'll
be done right.  Question is, will he have the time to do it?

PS.  Franklin is now looking for a VM 6 cylinder to go in his 109.  If you
can help him find one, send me an email and I'll pass along the info.

Cheers,

John F Hess   jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us
Land Rover Dormobile web pages:
http://wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us/~jfhess/homepage.html
1968 Land Rover Dormobile "Elvis"
1960 swb pu "Stubby" (actually Katherine's),
1960 swb roadster "Slug" (Alex's) Slug needs everything, donations accepted

------------------------------

Subject: Re:  1 ton shackles
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 98 08:19:30 -0800
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>

;>I just got some 1-ton shackles that I'll put on my 109 once I get the 
used
;>Salisbury I just picked up all ready to go.  Will I need to modify the 
frame
;>where the prop shafts go through it to allow for the steeper prop shaft 
angle
;>(due both to the shortening of the shaft, the Salisbury, and the lift)

Last summer I installed a Salisbury rear end,one ton springs and extended 
shackles in my 109.

The hole in the frame does not have to be modified.  I just ran out and 
looked.  The drive shaft is very close to the middle of the hole.

Series III 109s come stock with the Salisbury rear ends.  A stock series 
III rear prop shaft will fit properly.

Your old shocks will be too short after you add the extended shackles. 
Order shocks for the one ton or military 109.  I also did the same for 
the rear check straps.

You will need new 'U' bolts. Go genuine LR on these.  There are after 
market springs that are too soft.  I stripped one torquing it down to 
specs.

Have a good cut off grinder handy.  Chances are that you will have to cut 
off the old shackle and 'U' bolts.

It goes easier if you have a friend handy to help you remove and 
reinstall the rear end.  It can be a real pain trying to line up the pins 
in the leaf springs by yourself.

TeriAnn Wakeman             I subscribe to several high volume mail
Santa Cruz, California      Lists and do not read every posting. 
twakeman@cruzers.com        If you send me direct mail, please start
                            subject with TW-  so I will know to read it.

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

Subject: Re: 4.6 Engine
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 98 08:19:17 -0800
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>

;>Does anyone know if you can exchange the 3.9 engine that came with the
;>1993 110 with the newer 4.6 engines?  I was on a Land Rover trek this
;>weekend and a gentleman told me it could be done without modifying the
;>engine compartment.  I love my 110 but I use it to carry a lot of cargo
;>and it labors quite a bit when it's fully loaded or towing.

I laughed for minutes on this posting.  It's wonderful!!!

Try the same load in a 109 with a 2-1/4L engine.  Those of us who do 
fantasize about the lavish amounts of power available to our friends 
driving the US spec 110s.

Its all a mater of perspective.

TeriAnn Wakeman             I subscribe to several high volume mail
Santa Cruz, California      Lists and do not read every posting. 
twakeman@cruzers.com        If you send me direct mail, please start
                            subject with TW-  so I will know to read it.

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 11:29:01 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: Re: 4.6 Engine

>;>Does anyone know if you can exchange the 3.9 engine that came with the
>;>1993 110 with the newer 4.6 engines?

Can be done no problem... well except for the cost involved. Can go through
all kinds of performance stuff, 4.6 cross bolt block, modify the heads,
re-map the ECU, etc. etc. Or you can supercharge the 3.9 for about 70 more
horse power bolt on. Suprerchargers and are cheaper than installing the 4.6
short block, but then again you could install the supercharger on the 4.6!!
;-)
Have a great day!

From: Mike Smith,  EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

From: "Fred Herman" <hfherman@hotmail.com>
Subject: Key lock replacement
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 08:31:15 PST

I need to replace the key lock on the driver's door, and to keep the key 
the same, also the tumbler lock on the rear door of my SIIa 109 SW.  Can 
anyone tell me the best way to get at the cylinder, hopefully without 
destroving the latch or the door panel?  The latch is the old style - 
not anti-burst.
Thanks for your help.

Fred Herman
1969 SIIa 109 SW  "The Beast"

______________________________________________________

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 11:32:45 -0500
Subject: Re: ***1989 RANGE ROVER PRICED TO SELL***

I emailed this gent and never heard a word - anyone else heard from him?

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 11:40:45 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: Looking for...

Dear all,
Sorry for the general post all but...
Neil Sheridan, who is buying a used frame from us. Can you please email or
call, your phone number has been disconnected, and I deleted your email.
Thanks all!

From: Mike Smith,  EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 11:37:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Key lock replacement

Fred,

First off, you'll need to dismount the cylinders from the car. Then,
there's a hole into which you press a probe of some sort (I use a tiny
drift).

This releases the cylinder, which can then be swapped easily.

Rovers North actually has a good deal on these - matching 2,3, and
4-cylinder sets with loads of keys can be had fairly inexpensively.

          aj"I wish I was associated with RN....but I'm not!"r

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 98 11:40:43 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Prop Shafts

DaveB wrote:
> When the splines do wear and you've got an awful vibration down there, 
>the price of a boot becomes moot. IMHO
>Con Seitl
>1973 III 88 "Pig"
  yeah, what he said...
  DaveB
 who is just lazier than he is cheap

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 98 11:38:26 EST
Subject: Re[2]: 6 cyl engines

>>1. Just to be clear...This is the Va. Rob Davis not the Il. Rob Davis.
knew that
  > Rob is not a full time Land Rover dealer or repair shop. He has a full
   >time job. He messes with L-R's as a sideline because he is a Britcar 
   >fan and motorhead from way back. He is an excellent L-R mechanic. 
   >AND....honest.
never questioned his honesty
   >I'm sure Sandy was just being carefull considering that he was posting
   >Robert's ph. # on an international mailing list.
   I'm sure the few minutes he spends on the phone with a non buyer will 
   be made up for if he sells even one motor or one Mercruiser 
   conversion. Shouldn't be a big deal.
   > Sandy posted the ph. # so that people who may want to buy a 3.0 can 
   >call Robert and discuss it. 
   ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
that's exactly what Sandy said we weren't supposed to do!
remember? I quote:
"Only call him if you want to *buy* not ask questions."
  >Roberts a good friend and _I_ hesitate to call him with Rover questions 
   >because he is so busy. I spend alot of $ with R.N., At. Brit., and DAP. 
   >so I don't feel I'm out of line by asking any of those guys for tech 
   >help.
nor should you. They actually clearly state that that is a service they provide.
Hence the lack of an 800 no.
I know Robert somewhat as well and understand he is a busy guy, with a kid and 
everything. I can't imagine he gets any more or less business than most other 
folks that do the same type of thing he does. He has developed an engine 
conversion that is well recognised as being a very good one and people are going
to cal about it. If he can't handle the volume of inquiries than perhaps he 
needs to rethink his position in the market, which he is a part of despite the 
"enthusiast" status that you give him.
>>5. People are sure quick to make judgements on this list.
people also are quick to make assumptions and misinterpret things that maybe 
aren't worded clearly. Not everybody knows Robert, and some may have been put 
off by the way Sandy worded it. Its in everybody's best interest to clear 
things up. Never underestimate the human capacity for misunderstanding.
I've seen alot of changes on this list in the past 3 years and I've also seen 
alot of things happen off the list. my observations are based on fairly heavy 
involvement in the Land Rover "scene" in the Northeast during that time. I've 
learned alot about the way things work and I don't say things that are mere 
quick judgements based on one single statement. I'm sorry if I've offended 
Robert or anyone else but I'm still sticking to my position.

Regards
DaveB
Arlington VA
72 88 "GreenHELL"

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 98 11:47:18 EST
Subject: Re: To Pack or Not to Pack..

>> Wonder how many of us do/don't pack them!
>Con Seitl
>1973 III 88 "Pig"
  
  I pack em sometimes. Depends what i'm doing. Certainly can't hurt 
  anything. Only time I ever had a problem with a Rover wheel bearing was 
  when a front one filled up with mud. Tres ugly.
  later
  DaveB
  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 09:01:09 -0800 (PST)
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: "Light Duty" Diesel Terms

>JIm,
>Could you speak to the pros and cons of using a Mercedes 300 I-5 on a 109.
>I've spoken to a mechanic familiar with LR's and with diesels who made the
>suggestion.

        The Benz engine is a good one by reputatio They have a good power
output (77hp/115 lbs-ft for the naturally aspirated unit) and there have
been a few installed into LRs over the years. Two things come to mind.
Fitment would be  a fabrication job (read expensive) because there are no
kits available (that I know of).The MB parts are generally expensive, but
since many commecial diesel parts are not chep also, this may even out.
          I don't think any diesel is complete without a turbo, so If you
decide on the MB, get a 300TD engine. Step one is to get the dimensions of
the engine and see if there is a person that has experince doing a
conversion like this. If highly rated, experienced fabrication resources
are slim in your area, you may want to reconsider. You DON'T want a hacker
doing the work. It might be easier to use a LR 2.5L Turbo diesel (not a
TDI, the earlier unit that came after the 2.25L NA diesel) that you could
buy from the UK. This would be closer to a bolt-in that the Benz.
        Also, the UK has lots of conversion kits for diesels, Perkins
diesels in particular. These engines are available commercially at many
diesel industrial engine specialists in the USA. I know that Central Motive
Power in Denver stocks them and is a dealer (303) 452-3547. You would then
need to find which engines are compatable with which kits and order the
right engine.
         Some of the Japanese diesels have been swapped into LRs over the
years also. These are ususally good powerplants as well and worth
consideration. Her's an interesting research project for you. Have at it!
        Jim Allen

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 12:04:41 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Subject: Re: Key lock replacement

On Mon, 23 Mar 1998 Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com wrote:

> This releases the cylinder, which can then be swapped easily.
> Rovers North actually has a good deal on these - matching 2,3, and
> 4-cylinder sets with loads of keys can be had fairly inexpensively.

Of course, it is more fun to need to have four identical-looking keys.  

David 

------------------------------

From: "drew squires" <drewteri@concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Exchange Rates
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 12:08:02 -0500

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who responded about the Exchange
rates.  Very helpful considering that I had it a**-backwards.
Thanks!

Drew Squires
drewteri@concentric.net
(109 - still looking)

------------------------------

From: trowe@cdr.wisc.edu
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 13:04:42 -0600
Subject: for Alan Richter

Alan,
Would you e-mail me? I've lost your address and need to ask you a non-lr
question.
Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 15:05:20 -0500
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Subject: 3.0 litres

Dave Bobeck wrote:

>Ummmm...that kind of customer service aint gonna earn you a whole lotta 
>repeat business.

The guy is a true craftsman.  I've never seen anyone fit a capstan winch
*AND* an after-market air conditioner compressor to a 6 cyl and somehow
make it all look *factory*.

>He doesn't have the time or patience to talk to a customer who is going to
>spring for a new engine? How do you know if you want to buy  unless you
>ask questions.

Trouble is he, gets *way* too many questions and from cheap S.O.B.s who
have no intention of buying anything.  The lad works 10-12 hours a day as a
senior sys.admin for the NY Times office here in town (they do payroll,
purchasing for the whole corp.), then 6-8 hours each evening on Rover
projects.  So far, he has developed the Mercruiser engine, a remote
servo-assist for 109's, a replacement top hatch/vent for Dormobiles and a
double sliding window addition for 109 long "blind-siders".  I daresay the
boy does more R&D work than any other 100 owners out there.
 
>Business is not sitting around idly waiting for someone  to call up and
>send you a check. Its making an effort to reach out to a market.

I disagree.  Basically, isn't that what Land-Rover did throughout the
1970's?  ;-)  If you are turning away work and what you have is taking
virtually all your waking hours, I'm not sure you need to reach out to the
market.  Sure, in the long run, you need to grow your business to be
successful, but you have to put money-making jobs first and chit-chat well
down the list.

BTW...well said, Pete.  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 15:05:24 -0500
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Subject: 3.0 litres

Dave Bobeck wrote:

>Ummmm...that kind of customer service aint gonna earn you a whole lotta 
>repeat business.

The guy is a true craftsman.  I've never seen anyone fit a capstan winch
*AND* an after-market air conditioner compressor to a 6 cyl and somehow
make it all look *factory*.

>He doesn't have the time or patience to talk to a customer who is going to
>spring for a new engine? How do you know if you want to buy  unless you
>ask questions.

Trouble is he, gets *way* too many questions and from cheap S.O.B.s who
have no intention of buying anything.  The lad works 10-12 hours a day as a
senior sys.admin for the NY Times office here in town (they do payroll,
purchasing for the whole corp.), then 6-8 hours each evening on Rover
projects.  So far, he has developed the Mercruiser engine, a remote
servo-assist for 109's, a replacement top hatch/vent for Dormobiles and a
double sliding window addition for 109 long "blind-siders".  I daresay the
boy does more R&D work than any other 100 owners out there.
 
>Business is not sitting around idly waiting for someone  to call up and
>send you a check. Its making an effort to reach out to a market.

I disagree.  Basically, isn't that what Land-Rover did throughout the
1970's?  ;-)  If you are turning away work and what you have is taking
virtually all your waking hours, I'm not sure you need to reach out to the
market.  Sure, in the long run, you need to grow your business to be
successful, but you have to put money-making jobs first and chit-chat well
down the list.

BTW...well said, Pete.  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 15:05:22 -0500
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Subject: Shafted

Con P. Seitl <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca> wrote:

>Also, behind the screw cap, there is a fibrous type of washer, to sort
>of seal in the grease that gets shot in there from time to time ;-)

Be very, very careful of this toothed fibre washer.  It is unavailable
anywhere at any price.  It can be resurected with a bit of cyanoacrylate
glue if it gets torn....

I bet you've been waiting your whole life to say "the price of a boot becomes
moot." ;-)  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 98 15:41:23 EST
Subject: Re: 3.0 litres

>>Dave Bobeck wrote:

>>various *good* arguments deleted

I understand that Robert's work is considered by many to be top notch, I guess 
it was just the way your statement was worded, i.e., "don't call him unless you 
intend to buy". that send the wrong message. I addressed this already in my 
last message.
All I know is that if I am even CONTEMPLATING dropping the $$$$ for the 
Mercruiser conversion or other expensive work, I am NOT going to just write him 
a check no questions asked. How do you seperate those who just want to "steal" 
information from those who want to know what they are buying? He needs to put 
together printed material or something, so he can say "I'll send you a 
brochure" or maybe put himself on the web...
All I know is that if I'm the one that calls and he doesn't have time to talk 
to me than he'll have to get his money from somewhere else, I don't care what 
the reason is. There's always someone willing to spend money on something 
regardless of how much they know about it, so I guess he will probably keep 
doing well.
Am I making ANY sense here? By the responses it seems I'm not...

later
DaveB

------------------------------

From: "Huub Pennings" <HPS@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 21:57:43 +0100
Subject:       Re:another '88 

I brought her home,
                    my third Land Rover 88 petrol. I bought her at an 
army surplus auction in Belgium. She was real cheap (aprox 1300 
Us$, including taxes and transport) and is a '88 petrol 4x2 of 1975. 

I got her started 10 minutes after I had her at home.

The firewall and frame should be perfect for my dear 
Rusty. 

The '88 army I bought in between, which is to good to tear 
apart I will sell, if anyone offers the right prize.

Anyone interested?

Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 13:29:58 -0800
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: 4.6 Engine

RN sells the JE 4.5 short block (about $6800, if I recall), which simply
replaces the block and keeps all the ancillaries.  This mod is legal in
all 50 states.  I'm pretty sure the superchager Mike mentioned isn't
legal in CA--but if anyone knows differently, *please* correct me.

C

Cas Stimson wrote:
> Does anyone know if you can exchange the 3.9 engine that came with the
> 1993 110 with the newer 4.6 engines?  I was on a Land Rover trek this
> weekend and a gentleman told me it could be done without modifying the
> engine compartment.  I love my 110 but I use it to carry a lot of cargo
> and it labors quite a bit when it's fully loaded or towing.
> Thanks

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Thanks
> Cas Stimson

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 13:44:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Sean Morrison <seanm@dnai.com>
Subject: Blue Arse

I need help. I'm in the process of getting my '54 Series I 107 back on the
road. My girlfriend and I were walking in the hills and came upon this
fantastic rover. It was very neglected yet we fell in love with it.  After
a year of negotiations we bought it and towed it home. The goal is to
first get it going and use it as an around town vehicle. Neither of us had
any experiance working on Rovers, but we have a Lotus Europa Special, a
ralley preped MGB, a Citroen ID19, and a few other oddities. The rover is
by far the nicest to work on, but also the most depressing. It seems to
have spent the majority of it's life collecting mud on a Scottish farm. 

We first set out stripping it down so as to remove rust and repaint the
frame. The centre section of the body (seats & bins) has been welded to
the bulkhead/firewall. The front wings are also provong difficult to
remove. Can anyone tell me, are they just bolted to the firewall as well?
Can they be removed just by undoing the bolts from underneath or do you
have to get at them from the firewall/bulkhead side as well? I ask because
the previous owner was pretty creative when welding in some repairs to the
foot wells and they don't exactly match the manuals description.

The bodywork isn't to much of a problem as I'll get it off eventualy, but
I'm ashamed to admit I can't even get it to start.

The device which screws into the intake manifold is missing. I'm assuming
this was just the cold start sensor and isn't needed anyway. The
compresion is non-existant and all but one cylinder. The carburator is a
freshly installed re-built solex. I rebuilt the fuel pump and it now
works. The distributor looks worn. I'm fairly certian it's non-original.
Can anyone suggest a drop in replacement? If not, how can I get a rebuild
kit for this one (at least a cap, bushes, contacts & rotor)? I think it's
a Lucas. Is there a way to find out what type it is? (where is the ID
number usually found on these things?) How about a coil? What's a good
modern replacement? The electrics are still positivly earthed (meaning
that they should be positivly earthed, but I'm not positive if they're
earthed at all since most are covered in mud and grease).

I replacedd the battery and the thing tries to start. It turns over
strongly and even coughs sometimes. Usually when it fires the starter
disengagues and it won't fire again. I think that only one cylinder is
firing anyway. The spark seems weak which is why I suspect the electrics.
The engine is worn out I'm sure, but I'd at least like to get it running.

Is there anywhere I can buy a drop in replacement Series I engine (it's
the later of the 2 liter types)? Does anyone ship from the UK to
California? Any one know how much that might cost? Alternative ideas?

I apologize for rambling, but the are precious few Series I resources in
my neck of the woods.

Sincerely,
Sean Morrison seanm@dnai.com

75 Lotus Europa Special   TAROU
54 Land Rover Series I 107" Pickup  THE BLUE ARSE
70 MGB roadster
76 Agostini Motoguzzi Le Mans Mk I 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 16:45:48 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: Re: 4.6 Engine

>RN sells the JE 4.5 short block (about $6800, if I recall), which simply
>replaces the block and keeps all the ancillaries.  This mod is legal in
>all 50 states.  I'm pretty sure the superchager Mike mentioned isn't
>legal in CA--but if anyone knows differently, *please* correct me.

The superchargers we use are 50 state legal. The good part is about 80 hp
with a 4 hour install time for roughly $4000. The JE 4.5 would take how
many hours to install? I don't even know...plus the $6800 and you get 230
hp. With the blower you'd get 262 hp. But I'd still say do both!!! he he!
:-)

From: Mike Smith,  EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 16:55:18 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: V8s

For some really great Rover V8 info. and a hell of a lot better prices than
6800 for a block. Check out RPI Engineering in the UK. They have a nice web
site as well. Sorry I don't have the url in front of me. Sells NEW 4.6
blocks (new cross bolted block, new crank, pistons, con. rods, high torque
cam, lifters, cloyes timing chain, and gaskets, etc ) for roughly 1800
pounds. That is $3000 bucks or so.
Have a great day all.

From: Mike Smith,  EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 17:09:24 -0500
From: Edward Alexander <ncredox@mindspring.com>
Subject: Importing a Rover from England

I'm going to be in Europe this summer and I want to bring an older Rover
back to the States with me.  If anyone has done this, could you please tell
me what is the best way to ship a vehicle?  What kind of hassles should I
expect from customs, DMV, etc.?  How much should I expect to spend over the
cost to purchase the vehicle?

Edward D. Alexander, President, Theta Chi Fraternity
Delta Rho Chapter--NCSU
NCRedOx@mindspring.com

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 98 17:26:19 EST
Subject: 2.5 vs 2.25

What is the general opinion of the 2.5 
petrol engine. Is it really much better 
than a 2.25? How much increase would one 
expect in top speed on an 88". What about 
gearboxes? Do they fit up to the SIII 
box? What about a 5-speed? Obviously 
there would be problems with driveshafts 
and motor mounts with a conversion like 
this but what exactly ARE they? Has 
anybody done this?
Do you need 3.5 diffs to accomodate the 
different gearing of the 5 speed t-box?
Should I just write to LROI? :)
just wondering out loud
DaveB

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 14:28:35 -0800
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: 4.6 Engine

Hmmmm....Mike, if I didn't have (future) budget tagged for a Designa
Chassis for the IIA, I'd be seriously considering the Supercharger for
the 110!  But then I'd have to help TeriAnn with a few more axles so she
wouldn't give me too much grief!

C

Mike Smith wrote:
> >RN sells the JE 4.5 short block (about $6800, if I recall), which simply
> >replaces the block and keeps all the ancillaries.  This mod is legal in
> >all 50 states.  I'm pretty sure the superchager Mike mentioned isn't
> >legal in CA--but if anyone knows differently, *please* correct me.
> The superchargers we use are 50 state legal. The good part is about 80 hp
> with a 4 hour install time for roughly $4000. The JE 4.5 would take how
> many hours to install? I don't even know...plus the $6800 and you get 230
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
> 207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
> http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 18:22:44 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Shafted

A. P. "Sandy" Grice wrote:

> I bet you've been waiting your whole life to say "the price of a boot becomes
> moot." ;-)  Cheers    
>.
You know, I've got this list stuck on the wall, and I've finally got to
run the highlighter over that one! ;-)

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 18:30:43 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Going Away !!

Well, I'm told by SWMBO that it's time to leave the da*n computer and
get my arse in gear. Am leaving for Holland,Belgiun and all those neat
little countries in the next two hours. I know you'll miss me (who the
'ell was the guy?), so see ya all when I get back!!

Keep on Rovin'

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

  .......and no talking behind my back  ;-)
>.

------------------------------

From: "Thorsten Klein" <kleit001@goofy.zdv.Uni-Mainz.de>
Subject: Re: MB diesel in a LR
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 22:47:43 +0100

Hi all,
The MB D engine conversion (240D or 300D) was a common thing in Germany but
I have seen only bad conversions until now. Last autumn we have reconverted
a 88SIII from MB 300 D to a Peugeot 2.5 D.
With the MB 300D engine you would get clearance problems between diffhousing
and Sump. At the truck that we converted to the Peugeot engine (with Steve
Parker Adapter) the sump pan was cut a little bit, the engine mounts have
had distance pieces and the whole truck was lifted with longer shackles, so
the front propshaft angles were terrible. The radiator was a thinner one
from a Opel (GM) and the original fan from the MB engine was much to deep.

Hope this helps, Thorsten

Thorsten Klein, Mainz, Germany
SIII Lightweight (Scotty), awaiting complete rebuild
Defender 110 HT, ordered
kleit001@mail.uni-mainz.de
-----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
Von: john hess <jfhess@dcn.davis.ca.us>
An: lro@playground.sun.com <lro@playground.sun.com>
Datum: Montag, 23. März 1998 16:48
Betreff: MB diesel in a LR

>others have written:
>>Could you speak to the pros and cons of using a Mercedes 300 I-5 on a 109.
>>I've spoken to a mechanic familiar with LR's and with diesels who made the
>>suggestion.
>I have toyed with this idea before myself. My parents are MB diesel fans so
>I've had some experience with them. These diesels are pretty much

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 30 lines)]
>1960 swb pu "Stubby" (actually Katherine's),
>1960 swb roadster "Slug" (Alex's) Slug needs everything, donations accepted

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 16:37:13 -0600
From: mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marcus Tooze)
Subject: Re: V8s

> For some really great Rover V8 info. and a hell of a lot better prices than
> 6800 for a block. Check out RPI Engineering in the UK. They have a nice web
> site as well. Sorry I don't have the url in front of me. Sells NEW 4.6
> blocks (new cross bolted block, new crank, pistons, con. rods, high torque
> cam, lifters, cloyes timing chain, and gaskets, etc ) for roughly 1800
> pounds. That is $3000 bucks or so.
> Have a great day all.

the same place also sells a 3.9 short blocks (brand new take outs) for a grand
in olde money (about $1650).

Marcus

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 15:44:35 -0800 (PST)
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: 4.6 Engine

>RN sells the JE 4.5 short block (about $6800, if I recall), which simply
>replaces the block and keeps all the ancillaries.  This mod is legal in
>all 50 states.  I'm pretty sure the superchager Mike mentioned isn't
>legal in CA--but if anyone knows differently, *please* correct me.

If you are referring to the Rimmer Supercharger, it is 50 states legal and
has a CARB certification from California.

        Jim Allen

------------------------------

From: GElam30092 <GElam30092@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 19:11:21 EST
Subject: Spokane to PHX, April 3-5

(Sorry for the cross post)

I'll be driving from Spokane to Phoenix via Boise, Twin Falls, Ely, Hiko and
Las Vegas spending the night of April 3 in Twin Falls and April 4 in Las
Vegas.... assuming all goes well.

If there are any LRO's on this route, send me a note.  Perhaps we can get
together for a meal or a quick drink.

If you have a suggestion for a safe place to stay in Las Vegas, let me know.
My only concern is for a soft-top vehicle.  Thanks... and again, sorry for the
cross-post.

Thanks!
Gerry Elam
'63 IIA
'73 III (adoption process underway)
'95 Discovery
'97 XD ... for now.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 19:42:55 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: seats

In answer to both of your posts 1: no ateration should be necessary for
the prop shaft.
      2: I use seats from a Hyundai Pony, horrible little cars but the
seats aren't bad in a Land Rover.
    John and Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 19:50:45 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Good used-parts suppliers?

OK Alan is that the real Lotus? If so you might come back with a
reeeeely interesting engine swap for your LR !
   John and Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 19:53:46 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: 4.6 Engine

I believe it will drop right in as it is a 3.9 derivitive but you may
have to change the engine mangement system.
      John and Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 20:13:57 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Importing a Rover from England

It isn't unheard of for US citizens to ship vehicles from Rotterdam to
Halifax, Nova Scotia and pick them up there to be driven back to the US
with a set of US plates attached.
   John ans Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 07:46:42 -0500
From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Subject: Re: 1 ton shackles

Are you intending to modify your chassis hangers at the front mount of the rear
springs, or just fit the longer shackle plates? If you just fit the plates alone
you will tilt the nose of the diff and give yourself  problems with your
U-joints.You should fit "wedges" under the spring perches if you are not going
to change the frame These will equalise the angle.The crossmember holes are the
same.

Jarvis 64 wrote:

> I just got some 1-ton shackles that I'll put on my 109 once I get the used
> Salisbury I just picked up all ready to go.  Will I need to modify the frame
> where the propshafts go through it to allow for the steeper propshaft angle
> (due both to the shortening of the shaft, the Salisbury, and the lift)
> Bill Rice
> 64 SIIA 109

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 16:49:22 -0800
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: 1 ton shackles

Please justify that statement!  I bought my 1-ton shackles from a
combination of RN and BP.  Told both of 'em the application.  Further
mentioned on the LRO and Mendo lists that I was doing it.  Nobody
mentioned that as a problem at all! 

C

d.h.lowe wrote:
> Are you intending to modify your chassis hangers at the front mount of the 
rear
> springs, or just fit the longer shackle plates? If you just fit the plates 
alone
> you will tilt the nose of the diff and give yourself  problems with your
> U-joints.You should fit "wedges" under the spring perches if you are not going
> to change the frame These will equalise the angle.The crossmember holes are 
the
> same.
> Jarvis 64 wrote:
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
> > Salisbury I just picked up all ready to go.  Will I need to modify the frame
>          [ truncated by lro-lite (was 9 lines)]

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 20:07:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Good used-parts suppliers?

Yes,it'sthe real Lotus - Lotus 1-2-3,not Lotus "it will survive the race
but not 30 seconds more" Lotus.

I could build an interesting Rover indeed from Lotus'rubbish tip...8*)

          aj"12 cylinders - put  the motor in the back!"r

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 17:43:12 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: 4.6 Engine

Christopher H. Dow wrote:

> RN sells the JE 4.5 short block (about $6800, if I recall), which simply
> replaces the block and keeps all the ancillaries.  This mod is legal in
> all 50 states.  I'm pretty sure the superchager Mike mentioned isn't
> legal in CA--but if anyone knows differently, *please* correct me.

Interestingly the last time I saw the JE described I seem to recall that it
was
listed as "49 state" legal.  The supercharger (the Rimmer) oddly enough
is CA legal last I heard.

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 08:50:50 -0500
From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Subject: Re: 1 ton shackles

If you simply  "swing" the back end of the springs down you will, as a
consequence,tilt the nose of the diff. upwards thus altering the angle at which 
the
prop. shaft normally approaches the flange of the diff. This is not the end of 
the
world but is not good practice.Ian Ashcroft Conversions in the U.K.sells wedges 
.In a
perfect world the two flanges of the gearbox and the diff. would always remain
parallel to each other thus giving a smooth drive line.Of course the axle moves 
up and
down and the angle does change from it`s designed  position. You will just move 
it a
tad to the side of the equation.This not a reason for you not to do it but if 
you want
to do it properly consider the wedges.The Military 109 frame has extended front
hangers for the rear springs and the front end of the front springs to keep the 
diffs
in the same plane.
Christopher H. Dow wrote:

> Please justify that statement!  I bought my 1-ton shackles from a
> combination of RN and BP.  Told both of 'em the application.  Further
> mentioned on the LRO and Mendo lists that I was doing it.  Nobody
> mentioned that as a problem at all!
> C
> d.h.lowe wrote:
> > Are you intending to modify your chassis hangers at the front mount of the 
rear
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> > springs, or just fit the longer shackle plates? If you just fit the plates 
alone
>          [ truncated by lro-lite (was 18 lines)]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 18:02:52 -0800
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: 1 ton shackles

OK.  Thanks for the justification.  I'll contact Ian Ashcroft.

C

d.h.lowe wrote:
> If you simply  "swing" the back end of the springs down you will, as a
> consequence,tilt the nose of the diff. upwards thus altering the angle at 
which the
> prop. shaft normally approaches the flange of the diff. This is not the end 
of the
> world but is not good practice.Ian Ashcroft Conversions in the U.K.sells 
wedges .In a
> perfect world the two flanges of the gearbox and the diff. would always remain
> parallel to each other thus giving a smooth drive line.Of course the axle 
moves up and
> down and the angle does change from it`s designed  position. You will just 
move it a
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
> > combination of RN and BP.  Told both of 'em the application.  Further
>          [ truncated by lro-lite (was 16 lines)]

------------------------------

From: "Pietila, Rod L [IBM GSA]" <RPietila@qitgbsd2.telstra.com.au>
Subject: SIII 6 Cyl Water Temp Sender
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 14:00:00 +1000

Hi

This message was previously posted on the downunder list......

My 109 has had an overheating problem since I bought it. The previous
owner swapped in a Nissan ED33 4-cyl diesel and 5 speed transmission
from a Cabstar truck (Marks conversion). Original engine was the six
cylinder LR petrol.

I have several questions:

1). Can someone confirm that a SIII oil temp sender is identical with
the water temp sender ?

2). Anyone got any specs on what sender resistance to expect for
different temperatures? I am getting :

	deg C		ohms
	75		60
	80		49
	85		43
	90		38
	95		34
	100		29

Other points:

* I don't suspect the voltage regulator as the fuel gauge is not over
reading.

* I have checked the earth strap to the engine/sender and it is fine.

* New thermostat made no difference

* Removing thermostat made a slight improvement

* Have reverse flushed the radiator several times with no improvement

* Have installed a new water pump with no improvement

* Have installed an electric fan on the radiator with slight improvement
at low speeds

Any ideas?

Are there any common radiator swaps to try ?

Thanks

Rod
Brisbane, Australia	

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 15:58:48 -0500 (EST)
From: Matt Abercrombie <maa0818@ritvax.isc.rit.edu>
Subject: Overdrives

I am trying to see what my options for fitting an overdrive to my '69 88.  I
know that I have read some not so encouraging complaints about Fairey units.
Any other input about Fairey overdrives?
Also, I have heard on a few occasions of Troy overdrives.  Could this be the
same as a "Santana" GLR 120A?  What other manufactures of overdrives are out
there for series trucks?
Thanks-

Matt Abercrombie
'69 SWB 
Belfast, Maine USA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 10:21:27 +0100
From: Joost Kramer <jkramer@best.ms.philips.com>
Subject: Brake failure switch

Hi,

I am trying to understand why the right front brake is braking less when
pressing the padal sudden. When I press twince there is no problem. Is
it possible the brake failure switch (dual system) is blokking the
outlet to this wheel? I know the shuttle valve plunger is decentralised. 

Please help me out,

Joost Kramer

------------------------------

From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Subject: POR 15 availability in Europe?
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 22:26:55 +1000

>As far as I know, they only sell there stuff directly, at least in the U.S.

They sell in Australia.  I have their catalogue.  Don't ask me where though.
I thought it was in the pile on the bedside table but it's not.

Ron Beckett

------------------------------

From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Subject: Salisbury
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 22:16:19 +1000

Ron Beckett wrote:
> I'm pretty sure my old 1955 Jaguar Mk VII used a Salisbury diff.  I could
go
> the garage and get the workshop manual but it's too hot outside.

john cranfield replied:
>Oh just Quit the whining Ron! It is supposed to be the 2nd day of
>spring and it's snowing like hell here (whoops kind of screwed up
>metaphor there)

I went bushwalking on Sunday.  It was warmish in the mountains at about 100
deg F but it was over 114 deg at home when I got back.

We came across two Pommie (English) tourists who had 600ml of water between
them and they were walking in the bush.  I had 2 litres to myself.  We had
to give them water to rehydrate them.    They were stripped down to shorts
and were somewhat sunburned.

Ah, Salisbury diffs.  Yes, I've checked the Jag manual and the Mark VII (and
the XK120) used Salisbury diffs.

Ron

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