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Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 08:05:58 -0500
From: William S Kowalski <70252.1204@compuserve.com>
Subject: Reply---SIII 6 Cyl Water Temp Sender

I suspect if you replaced the 6 cylinder engine with the shorter block 4
cylinder the engine and the fan blade is now setting back from the radiator
core by many inches. Plus I bet you were not able to fit the shrould around
the fan blade. If such is the case, then you will have overheating problems
further indicated by the fact you said the electric fan did help.  You need
the fan shrould to direct the air through the radiator core and over the
engine. Best to install a four cylinder bulkhead, new engine/xmission
mounts, new prop shafts etc. to  put the engine and fan blade  where it
belongs.

Bill Kowalski
Chicago, Ill USA

'67 Land Rover 109" IIA with 2.25 l petrol 
'63 Austin-Healey BJ-7
'53 RR Bentley  "R"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 08:24:18 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: Re: Reply---SIII 6 Cyl Water Temp Sender

>I suspect if you replaced the 6 cylinder engine with the shorter block 4
>cylinder the engine and the fan blade is now setting back from the radiator
>core by many inches. Plus I bet you were not able to fit the shrould around
>the fan blade. If such is the case, then you will have overheating problems
>further indicated by the fact you said the electric fan did help.  You need
>the fan shrould to direct the air through the radiator core and over the
>engine. Best to install a four cylinder bulkhead, new engine/xmission
>mounts, new prop shafts etc. to  put the engine and fan blade  where it
>belongs.

We have done the 6 to 4 conversion quite a few times. Skip the bulkhead
swap and all that major work. Remove the belt driven fan from the water
pump, re-installl the pulley, make a custom radiator shroud and install a
high quality thermostatically controlled electric fan on the rear of the
radiator. It must have a shroud to keep up we have found. No complaints of
overheating from the customers we have done it for (will even give you a
few extra hp). OR... have a fabrication shop make a few modifications to
your existing radiator support that will give it more depth and put the
radiator, the proper shroud, etc. back in front of the fan.
See ya!

From: Mike Smith,  EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 08:20:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Reply---SIII 6 Cyl Water Temp Sender

Bill,

Isn't replacing the bulkhead to cure overheating a bit like shooting a gnat
with a seige gun?

More to the point, if the engine is overheating and an electric fan helped
the situation, then a general check of the cooling system with attention to
the radiator might be in order.

Also, I'd be more inclinded to believe that the gauge is off if he's got an
oil-temp sender in there rather than the water-temp one that's right for
the circuit.

First off, rather than mucking with the gauge in the dash, a good cook's
thermometer (available for about 6-8 bucks) in the radiator's filler neck
would tell tales that would be interesting. Start the motor with the
radiator cap off and let it run till it comes to temperature. Drop the
thermometer into the top of the radiator and watch the numbers - if your
dash gauge is flunky you might not be overheating at all.

If the thermometer and the dash do agree, then it's time to take a better
look at the radiator itself. Perhaps it's not big enough for the Diesel?

If it is OK, then I'd get the rad flow-tested and such, then address
general airflow issues (like is there a winch or something in front of the
radiator) before I started shifting the motor about.

The position of the motor isn't going to matter much if the airflow through
the radiator fins is correct. Witness all of the triallers that have the
radiator at the back with fans on it, instead of in the traditional
position...

          aj"Don't kill it yet..."r

------------------------------

From: b.boehlers@olsy.dk (Bent Boehlers)
Subject: RE: V8s
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 08:25:10 +0100

URL is: http://www.rpi-engineering.co.uk/

Happy Rovering

Bent Boehlers, DK

----------
From: 	Mike Smith[SMTP:ecrover@midcoast.com]
Sent: 	23. marts 1998 22:55
Subject: 	V8s

For some really great Rover V8 info. and a hell of a lot better prices than
6800 for a block. Check out RPI Engineering in the UK. They have a nice web
site as well. Sorry I don't have the url in front of me. Sells NEW 4.6
blocks (new cross bolted block, new crank, pistons, con. rods, high torque
cam, lifters, cloyes timing chain, and gaskets, etc ) for roughly 1800
pounds. That is $3000 bucks or so.
Have a great day all.

From: Mike Smith,  EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT

	[Attachment WINMAIL.DAT removed, was 43 lines.]	end

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 08:10:34 EST
Subject: Re: Going Away !!

>> Holland,Belgiun and all those neat little countries in the next two hours. 

wow, talk about a whirlwind tour...

  >>.......and no talking behind my back  ;-)

oops, didn't see that! :)

later
DaveB

------------------------------

From: "Bod (Ian Boddison)" <bod.glass@mail.easynet.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 14:43:17 +0000
Subject: Re: Reply---SIII 6 Cyl Water Temp Sender

> Isn't replacing the bulkhead to cure overheating a bit like shooting
> a gnat with a seige gun?

A far better solution would be to change the engine!
And put back a SIII 6-Cyl like it is supposed to have
Rover put one there because they wanted one there

> Also, I'd be more inclinded to believe that the gauge is off if he's
> got an oil-temp sender in there rather than the water-temp one
> that's right for the circuit.

The only oil temp. gauges I have ever seen fitted in the UK are of 
the capillary type and are generally only fitted to vehicles with 
oil-coolers.   These tend to be vehicles that are/were intended to 
perform alot of stationary work (either mechanical, electrical or 
hydrulic) or deep wading.   In the vast majority of cases this means 
ex-military FFRs (running stationary whilst driving a BIG generator 
for the radio sets).

If it has an electrical sender then, chances are, it was retro-fitted 
or it was an export option.

Cheers,           Bod.
  
     

------------------------------

From: "Mari or Rick Harrison" <marick@nwlink.com>
Subject: RR and LR parts for sale (the big chunks)
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 07:02:55 -0800

Hello list,
Jarvis64 wrote of using 1-ton shackles on a regular LR chassis.
You should weld on the extended front spring perches as drive shaft wear
will be a problem. All in all it's not a difficult task. The only other mod
required is a dimple for the front driveshaft to clear in the top of the
clutch crossmember for when drive shaft pivots downward. (1-ton frames all
have this cut out for clearance.) Also..the 1-ton LR comes with extensions
bolted onto the bump stops, these are available from Rovers North.

Vehicle for sale:
'79 Range Rover 2-door,
V8, LT95 4-speed, Power steering, 4-wheel disk brakes, Roof rack, Light
guards, AM/FM cassette stereo. New recently: Engine work, Clutch, Suspension
bushings, Shocks, Stainless steel exhaust, Top tailgate, Alternator,
Starter, Electronic ignition distributor. 90K miles No rust, Straight frame
and under body, clean original vehicle, good oil pressure, runs great.
Originally from France.
This is a real nice Land Rover, I have too many projects, some thing's got
to
go.
US $10,995. I have JPEG pictures I'll e-mail to interested parties.

And parts for sale:
These extra parts are the result of a coil conversion being done to my daily
driver 109" regular, all parts are in excellent condition. I use synthetic
oil and I don't abuse things, so these items are clean and ready to go, not
cores.
1.) Series reinforced front axle assembly complete with 3.54 diff., good
chrome, new rialco bushings and seals, Selectro freewheeling hubs, fine
spline halfshafts, 11" x 3 " 6cyl brakes. (Brakes and swivels rebuilt last
fall).
2.)  Series III 109 salisbury rear axle assembly complete, 3.54 gearing and
11" brakes.
3.) Suffix D IIA gearbox and transfer box. Solid, tight and as quiet as I've
heard.
4.) Rust free, 109" chassis with extended spring mounts, 2" raised from
regular. Springs may alternatively  be mounted to a set of holes at the
standard height if civvy 109" shackles are used. This is a civvy frame
with the military style spring perches welded on (very solid). It still has
the civvy rear crossmember.
5.) Springs: HD front and regular pickup rear.
6.) Rear fuel tank, decent condition but somewhat dented.
7.) Pick-up cab with head liner, a few ripples in the top part.
8.) Genuine series IIA new old stock 109" military canvas top, with military
roll bar (early twin tube type) and bows and stays. Canvas is in excellent
condition, only used in summer. Everything you need for canvas top except
the tailgate.

This is a perfect opportunity for that rusty restoration you've
been planning.

I have shipping crates available for the axles.

$ offers...

I want real money for it but what is it worth? Make me an offer.
Rick Harrison
Everett, WA.

------------------------------

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Subject: CO Sighting!
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 03:06:10 -0700
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ]
	charset="iso-8859-1"

Hey YOU!

On 3/23/98 I spotted a SIII 109 SW in Gunnmetal Blue with silver Rue =
bar(South and later North bound I-25) . The vehicle had just been =
recently registered in the state. It still had a New South Wales Plate =
on the back...It was also a RHD.

I was the psyco Coca-Cola van that posted the LR club phone number in =
the window as I passed.

If you or someone who knows you are reading...Please contact us at the =
Solihull Society on www.solihullsociety.org...We'd love to see you at =
meetings and events!

Yours'

K. John Wood
Event Co- Solihull Society

------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BD5EAD.73CCD9C0
	[ Original post was HTML ]
	charset="iso-8859-1"

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#b8b8b8>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Hey YOU!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>On 3/23/98 I spotted a SIII 109 SW =
in Gunnmetal
Blue with silver Rue bar(South and later North bound I-25) . The vehicle =
had
just been recently registered in the state. It still had a New South =
Wales Plate
on the back...It was also a RHD.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I was the psyco Coca-Cola van that =
posted the LR
club phone number in the window as I passed.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>If you or someone who knows you are
reading...Please contact us at the Solihull Society on <A
href=3D"
We'd</A>
love to see you at meetings and events!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Yours'</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>K. John Wood</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Event Co- Solihull =
Society</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BD5EAD.73CCD9C0--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 07:40:56 -0800
From: john hess <jfhess@dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: 4.6

previously:
From: Cas Stimson <cstimson@gte.net>
Subject: 4.6 Engine

Does anyone know if you can exchange the 3.9 engine that came with the
1993 110 with the newer 4.6 engines?  I was on a Land Rover trek this
weekend and a gentleman told me it could be done without modifying the
engine compartment.  I love my 110 but I use it to carry a lot of cargo
and it labors quite a bit when it's fully loaded or towing.

Thanks

Cas Stimson

doug shipman in Portland Oregon is doing that very thing right now, or he
may be done.

ships mechanical 503 252 5566.

John F Hess   jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us
Land Rover Dormobile web pages:
http://wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us/~jfhess/homepage.html
1968 Land Rover Dormobile "Elvis"
1960 swb pu "Stubby" (actually Katherine's),
1960 swb roadster "Slug" (Alex's) Slug needs everything, donations accepted

------------------------------

From: slade@imagina.com (Michael Slade)
Subject: Re: 4.6
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 07:00:44 -0800

>previously:
>From: Cas Stimson <cstimson@gte.net>
>Subject: 4.6 Engine
>Does anyone know ...

then john answered...

>doug shipman in Portland Oregon is doing that very thing right now, or he
>may be done.
>ships mechanical 503 252 5566.
>John F Hess   jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us

It's done.  It's beautiful.  It's EXPENSIVE.

For my money I'd just buy a 1 ton truck for all the HEAVY towing/hauling
you might do.  You can buy a nice used Fo&* or Ch@&( for about 6K.

JMHO.

Michael Slade
Portland, OR
'90 RR (test vehicle)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 09:58:47 -0600
From: "\"Mr. Mike\" Passaretti" <passaretti@sol.med.ge.com>
Subject: POR 15 availability in Europe?

>>>>> "Ron" == Ron Beckett <hillman@bigpond.com> writes:

    Ron> I have their catalogue.  Don't ask me
    Ron> where though.  I thought it was in the pile on the bedside
    Ron> table but it's not.

If you found nothing odd about this paragraph, you might be a
Rover nut^H^H^H enthusiast.

Sorry.  Couldn't resist.  I have a (tall) pile like that myself.
One in the living room too.  The cat loves them.
							-MM

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 11:10:21 EST
Subject: Re: 4.6

In a message dated 3/24/98 11:07:34 AM Eastern Standard Time,
slade@imagina.com writes:

<< It's done.  It's beautiful.  It's EXPENSIVE.
 
 For my money I'd just buy a 1 ton truck for all the HEAVY towing/hauling
 you might do.  You can buy a nice used Fo&* or Ch@&( for about 6K.
  >>

Agree.  Parts are cheap and easy to find.  For the kind of money involved in
setting up a rover for heavy towing, I'd buy a beater or 2 and use them.  Save
the rover for the good stuff.

Nate

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 10:16:08 -0800
From: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Subject: Re: POR 15 availability in Europe?

At 09:58 AM 3/24/98 -0600, you wrote:
>>>>>> "Ron" == Ron Beckett <hillman@bigpond.com> writes:
>    Ron> I have their catalogue.  Don't ask me
>    Ron> where though.  I thought it was in the pile on the bedside
>    Ron> table but it's not.
>If you found nothing odd about this paragraph, you might be a
>Rover nut^H^H^H enthusiast.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
>One in the living room too.  The cat loves them.
>							-MM
Nothing in the loo?

Peter
'60 109SW
'64 88
'70 88 (in pieces)
'73 88 (driver)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 10:15:12 -0600
From: "\"Mr. Mike\" Passaretti" <passaretti@sol.med.ge.com>
Subject: Re: POR 15 availability in Europe?

>>>>> "Peter" == Peter  <nosimport@mailbag.com> writes:

    Peter> At 09:58 AM 3/24/98 -0600, you wrote:

    Peter> Nothing in the loo?

Actually, the "home-improvement" catalogues are in there.
I have that money sink too...
						-MM

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 10:33:45 -0600
From: mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marcus Tooze)
Subject: Re: POR 15 availability in Europe?

> Sorry.  Couldn't resist.  I have a (tall) pile like that myself.
> One in the living room too.  The cat loves them.

Huh? Your cat can read?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 11:58:58 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Now Nate....(wuz Re:4.6)

Nate sez...
Agree.  Parts are cheap and easy to find.  For the kind of money involved 
in
setting up a rover for heavy towing, I'd buy a beater or 2 and use them.  
Save
the rover for the good stuff. (exit Nate)

Just a thought, but don't you have enough beaters already :-/ ?

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 12:19:14 EST
Subject: Re: Now Nate....(wuz Re:4.6)

In a message dated 3/24/98 12:04:43 PM Eastern Standard Time, badams@usia.gov
writes:

<< Just a thought, but don't you have enough beaters already :-/ ?
  >>
More than enough.  Had to go find some big shelves to put all the broken parts
on

N

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 12:29:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu
Subject: rochester info...

I have a fairly decent condition rochester that I'd liker to use on my
2.25 I rebuilt it last fall because when it was installed on the engine it
would not run unless it was 3/4ths choked all the time. now with a rebuild
kit in it it still does the same thing. What do I have to do now? it
simply won't run right with the choke out. It is in excellent condition
and certainly not worn out anywhere, and I doubt its seen much use, none
of the componenets I replaced with the NAPA rebuild kit seemed to need
replacement but that was where I first turned...Is it possibl its not
jetted right or something?

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I have had to swap on an old
solex that leaks gas everywhere and is in really really poor condition but
runs like a champ. I'd much rather use the rochester because it is in much
better condition and for the better performance etc... Plus money is a big
factor and I can not afford a decent new carb.

thanks

Matt

------------------------------

From: Lodelane <Lodelane@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 12:37:52 EST
Subject: Re: rochester info...

Matt,

What size main jet do you have in the Rochester?  Should be about a 50 or 51.

May also want to check the float levels again.

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: rochester info...
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 09:43:45 -0800

If you need lots of choke, it means that the mixture getting to the
cylinders is to lean.  Could mean anything from a bad float level, to
vacuum leaks in the intake.  Try spraying carb cleaner over all of the
joints in the intake.  If the idle picks up, you've found a leak.

Paul.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 10:37:38 -0800
From: John Hong <jhong@best.com>
Subject: Re: 3.0 litres

>>Dave Bobeck wrote:
>>various *good* arguments deleted
>I understand that Robert's work is considered by many to be top notch, I
guess 
>it was just the way your statement was worded, i.e., "don't call him
unless you 
> intend to buy". that send the wrong message. I addressed this already in my 
>last message.
snip
>All I know is that if I'm the one that calls and he doesn't have time to
talk 
>to me than he'll have to get his money from somewhere else, I don't care
what 
>the reason is. There's always someone willing to spend money on something 
>regardless of how much they know about it, so I guess he will probably keep 
>doing well.
>Am I making ANY sense here? By the responses it seems I'm not...
>later
>DaveB

I'll hop in about the dynamics of a small/part time business.  To me, the
context of the original message was "it is a one man shop, this guy is busy
because this guy is good" - the part timer and "more work than he can
handle" info came out later.   

For many one person shops, word of mouth is the BEST advertising because
Nothing beats a good referral from a satisfied customer, you aren't paying
big bucks for ads, and it is a much easier, friendlier sell.   In an
extreme case, the customers become friends/protective of the shop and only
refer "qualified" leads!!   It don't get any better than this - the bulk of
your new customers are likeminded and pre-qualified, your sell time is way
low, $0 for ads, and you focus on what brought you to the business in the
first place, a technically tight product! 

If one were a serious buyer and called a busy/small place like this and
starting the phone call with "Hello, a very satisfied customer of yours,
Butros Butros Gali, referred me to you.  I am a serious buyer but I have a
couple of things I'd like to confirm...is now a good time to talk?" doesn't
get you a polite response.  Then DaveB you are right.     

I will guess that some of the negative reaction to your response was in the
vein of "Well, I know Robert does *great work* and is a good guy - where
does this guy (daveb:) who doesn't know him, get off saying he is a bad
businessman and will be going out of business when the reverse appears to
be true?"

john "my goddamn boss always knows when I slack off cause he is me" hong

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 14:10:38 EST
Subject: Re[2]: 3.0 litres

>I will guess that some of the negative reaction to your response was in 
>the vein of "Well, I know Robert does *great work* and is a good guy - 
>where does this guy (daveb:) who doesn't know him,

I know him. Just not what I would consider a friend. But we have spent time 
on the phone and talking in person. I even bought stuff from him, and know 
others who have. Some reviews not as glowing as others, but I wouldn't 
condemn the guy without hearing more. Nothing personal against Rob, other 
than my own personal dislike of everybody human :). 

> get off saying he is a bad businessman and will be going out of business 
>when the reverse appears to be true?"

Just though it deserved examination. Regretting it now. Well, not really, but 
its good to say that.

Still no answers about my 2.5 gas questions. Has anyone ever put one in a 
series truck?

Well?

later
Dave "the crank" B.

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 14:17:23 EST
Subject: Re: rochester info...

matt writes:

>>I have ... on an old solex that leaks gas everywhere and is in really 
>>really poor condition but runs like a champ. 

so the solex leaks gas but runs great. Where does it leak? If its the 
float bowl then maybe its just not set right, or needs a new gasket.
Carbs either work or they don't nothing to fix if it works. So it spills a 
little gas. put a tin pan under it. Seen these on a unimog. not sure if 
that's what they are for but its there...keep it off da mainfold at least

>> the rochester ... is in much better condition 

err...this one don't work? NOT better condition.

>> money is a big factor and I can not afford a decent new carb.

I think you've answered yer own question Matt.

eh?

later
daveB who is currently rebuilding a Zenith to replace a perfectly functioning 
13 year old weber 34ICH...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 13:17:41 -0600
From: "\"Mr. Mike\" Passaretti" <passaretti@sol.med.ge.com>
Subject: Re: POR 15 availability in Europe?

>>>>> "Marcus" == Marcus Tooze <mtooze@tan.unl.edu> writes:

    >> Sorry.  Couldn't resist.  I have a (tall) pile like that myself.
    >> One in the living room too.  The cat loves them.

    Marcus> Huh? Your cat can read?

Based on her fascination with the printed word in the form of tall
stacks of unfiled paperbacks and unread magazines along with the
aforementioned catalogues and flyers from car parts vendors I'd say 
that she's got a healthy appetite for knowledge.
								-MM

(She doesn't like the TR-4, though.  Something in the engine/exhaust
 note drives her up a tree.  Literally.)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 14:47:46 -0500
From: Jan Ben <ben@lucent.com>
Subject: early Rangie auto tranny - is it? .. couldnt be..!

Looking through a Federal Mogul bearing book,  I found that they list
parts for the early (upto 77) RR AT.  It's listed as the Mopar 727
Torqueflight.  No! is it really?!
I wonder what bell..  Hmm.. 440 six-pack swap, now you're talkin'  :)
OTOH I have seen errors in FM books before..
????
Jan

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 11:45:00 -0800

------------------------------

From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Subject: Re:  seats
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 11:51:31 -0800

From: Jarvis 64 <Jarvis64@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 07:08:41 EST
Subject: Re:  seats

> I asked about seats last week--no responses yet.  Does that mean
nobody knows
of any decent substitute in the States?  Drove over 900 miles in the
last
three days (NY, RI, Mass, VT, NH,  and Ont!)--about 500-600 on Saturday
in
that big snowstorm the NE got hit w/, and my butt was killing me after
about
10 hours behind the wheel.  I'm young, but I won't be for long if I keep
having weekends like this.

> Any seats out there?

I think your best bet is to contact one of the independent seat
suppliers in the UK.  You can find ads for them in any issue of Land
Rover Owner International magazine.  I am not aware of any replacement
seat suppliers in the US that make seats specifically for Land Rovers.
However, the design of the seat box and bulkhead in a Series Land Rover
is such that it limits what can be done in terms of installing new
seats.  The factory-installed bulkhead should not be removed from a
Series Land Rover as it gives torsional strength to the body.  But there
are replacement seats available from suppliers in the UK, some of them
high-back, and I'm sure any of them would provide more padding than the
stock seats.  If you are tall, however, these replacement seats may
limit the amount of available footroom.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 11:52:18 -0800

------------------------------

From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Subject: re: 4.6 engine
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 12:00:57 -0800

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 07:04:28 +0000
From: Cas Stimson <cstimson@gte.net>
Subject: 4.6 Engine

>Does anyone know if you can exchange the 3.9 engine that came with the
1993 110 with the newer 4.6 engines?  I was on a Land Rover trek this
weekend and a gentleman told me it could be done without modifying the
engine compartment.  I love my 110 but I use it to carry a lot of cargo
and it labors quite a bit when it's fully loaded or towing.

I suspect the physical fit would be no problem.  However, there's
potentially a lot more to it than that.  If the engine control
electronics and sensors are not the same as those on the 3.9 in your
D110, you'll need to replace the computer(s) and all the sensors.  I
believe, but am not positive, that the 4.6 is used only with an
automatic transmission, so whether it would mate with the old manual
5-speed in your Defender, and if the engine control unit would get
whatever information it might need from the transmission (if any), is
something you'd need to determine.

In 1992 when I inquired during a visit to the factory at Solihull, a new
Tdi engine and the hardware necessary to install it in a Series Land
Rover cost about US$9,000.  I'm going to guess that a new 4.6 V-8 and
all the ancillary stuff needed to run it will cost at least that, and
probably more, perhaps US$15,000.  Whether it's worth the cost and
effort is your call.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 12:01:34 -0800

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 15:17:22 EST
Subject: Re: early Rangie auto tranny - is it? .. couldnt be..!

>Looking through a Federal Mogul bearing book,  I found that they list 
>parts for the early (upto 77) RR AT.  It's listed as the Mopar 727 
>Torqueflight.  No! is it really?!
>I wonder what bell..  Hmm.. 440 six-pack swap, now you're talkin'  :) 
>OTOH I have seen errors in FM books before..

Don't know about the pre 77's, but the US t-box was different than the rest 
after a few years or something. "twas a *borg* warner I believe.
BW common in american metal, no?

you WILL be assimilated

DaveB

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 12:19:15 -0800

------------------------------

From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Subject: re: Overdrives
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 12:21:27 -0800

Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 15:58:48 -0500 (EST)
From: Matt Abercrombie <maa0818@ritvax.isc.rit.edu>
Subject: Overdrives

>I am trying to see what my options for fitting an overdrive to my '69
88.  I
know that I have read some not so encouraging complaints about Fairey
units.
Any other input about Fairey overdrives?

I installed a Fairey overdrive in my Land Rover Series III-88 shortly
after I bought it new in 1973.  It has given excellent service since
then other than the time I let it run out of oil once too often in the
late 1980s.  The symptom of low oil is the unit jumps out of HIGH at
highway speeds.  The lack of lubrication was causing binding in the gear
train which pops it into neutral.  After I'd let this happen a few
times,  the small drive gear that mounts on the transmission output
shaft finally stripped all its teeth.  The immediate fix was to remove
the overdrive and re-install the stock output gear and output shaft
support bearing.

When I had the transmission overhauled in the late '80s to cure the oil
leaks that were occurring as a result of all the joint gaskets finally
turning to dust, I had the overdrive repaired and reinstalled.  It has
performed flawlessly since then, which has been almost ten years now.

It's not particularly quiet, but then neither is the rest of the
transmission and transfer case, so who notices an extra whine.  If I
were doing extremely arduous rock climbing or similar off-road work, I
might be inclined to remove the overdrive as I feel that little drive
gear is it's weakest link.  But for pavement use and the dirt, gravel,
muddy, and snowy roads that I encounter in Washington, British Columbia,
and the Yukon, the overdrive seems to be able to take it okay.  It's
advisable to use it only in third and fourth gear, though, on pavement.
For starting from a dead stop or off-road work, the overdrive should be
kept in LOW.

It's real value to me is not that it saves me gas, although it might,
but that it allows me to keep within sight of the flow of traffic on
today's highways without thrashing the engine.  The 2.25 petrol engine
is happiest at 3,000 rpm or less.  While it will go on up to 4,250 rpm,
running it at these speeds will shorten its life significantly,
particularly the valves, valve seats, and rocker shaft bearing surfaces.
But make sure the overdrive oil level is always at the correct mark.  If
you drive your Land Rover every day, as I did for the first ten years of
its life, a weekly check of the overdrive oil level is a good idea.

Others on this group seem to have had bad luck with Fairey Overdrives.
I have not.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 12:38:21 -0800

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 15:42:38 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Overdrives

>I installed a Fairey overdrive in my Land Rover Series III-88 shortly after I 
>bought it new in 1973.

>Others on this group seem to have had bad luck with Fairey 
>Overdrives. I have not.

Oh marin, we are getting tired of hearing about how trouble free your Land 
Rover has been! Doesn't ANYTHING ever go wrong with it. Don't answer or you 
will suffer Nigel's Disease for sure...
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA! (evil laughter)

BTW I like my Fairey...err...superwench..err...um...overdrive.

Seriously, kudos to you for keeping her this long and taking such good care of 
her. All Landies should be so well looked after. 

I just found out that one of the worst beater Landies I've ever seen, (no not 
the Wayback Machine aka Deathride) that lives around the corner from me 
actually moves under its own power. Amazing.

later
DaveB

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 12:47:16 -0800

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 15:49:17 EST
Subject: Mercruiser questions was re: 3.0 liter

Hi all,

I thought the mercruiser conversion was a 1 time thing.  If this is an
available option, I have 4 questions:
1. What modifications to the chassis/bodywork is needed to fit this?
2. What are the transmission options with this?
3. What other drivetrain modifications are needed?
4. What's it cost (in roundabout numbers)?

Nate

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 12:49:57 -0800

------------------------------

Date: 	Tue, 24 Mar 1998 08:58:06 -1000
From: Wayne Haight <whaight@hawaii.edu>
Subject: Re: RR and LR parts for sale (the big chunks)

Aloha Rick,

I am interested in your front springs, rear diff, and gearbox/transfer
case. I have a 1970 Series IIA SWB. I assume everything would fit OK. If
I decide to go for the purchase it would probably work best to ship via
Matson from Seattle. I have done this several times with personal
belongings and autos (I have moved between Seattle and Honolulu a couple
times). Any idea of the price range for the individual items?

Also where did you buy your frame and coil ceonversion stuff? I actually
need a new frame since mine was damaged in an accident, but don't have
the guts (or money) to spring for the coil conversion...

Mahalo, 
-- 
Wayne R. Haight
Senior Fisheries Research Specialist
Joint Institute for Marine and Atmospheric Research
2570 Dole Street
Honolulu, Hawaii 96822

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 12:51:32 -0800

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 15:50:14
From: David Kurzman <kurzman@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Overdrives and 16" wheels

The jury remains out on the Fairey overdrive it seems. FWIW...I have had
3 o/d's. I don't put alot of miles on the trucks but one of the o/d's
went anyway (about 2k-and I watched the oil, broke it in, etc). I have no 
idea what went wrong but was pleasantly surprised when At. Brit. replaced
it-no questions asked. :-0
My question: my current 88 has no o/d. AND...it has 15" wheels with 
235/75R-15 tires. If I sprang for a set of 16" wheels with 235/85R-16 tires
(I _think_ that's what was on my old L-R) what would be the gain in 
effective gearing as compared to fitting a Fairy o/d and keeping the 15's?
The price would be similar and I think we can agree, that wheels are
more durable than overdrives. ;-)
Thanks, Dave in Richmond, Va.   (Someone please buy my hardtop!)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 15:27:47
From: David Kurzman <kurzman@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: early Rangie auto tranny - is it? .. couldnt be..!

Jan wrote:
"Looking through a Federal Mogul bearing book,  I found that they list
parts for the early (upto 77) RR AT.  It's listed as the Mopar 727
Torqueflight.  No! is it really?!
I wonder what bell..  Hmm.. 440 six-pack swap, now you're talkin'  :)
OTOH I have seen errors in FM books before..
????"

I don't know about the Rover (sounds doubtfull) but that tranny is used in
the Jensen Interceptor. And as long as I'm here....I've got a 727 in the
garage that I don't want. $100??? worked fine when I took it out of a '68
Road Runner. 
Best, Dave in Richmond, Va.  (804) 233-1341  '66 SWB ragtop
  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 12:57:43 -0800

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 12:57:54 -0800

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 16:09:17 EST
Subject: Re: Mercruiser questions was re: 3.0 liter

>1. What modifications to the chassis/bodywork is needed to fit this? 

none I believe.

>2. What are the transmission options with this?

standard LR 

>3. What other drivetrain modifications are needed? 

none (scotty's adapter I think)

>4. What's it cost (in roundabout numbers)?

you'll have to call rob and ASK him

Dave

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 13:20:11 -0800

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 17:31:42 -0500
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: 109 brakes

 Seems there is a spate of 109 brake problems so I will re post the
following how to bleed 109 brakes in one easy lesson,  I struggled for years
until I  learnt this technique from Steve Parker ( now of Ford V6 conversion
fame ), it is yours free, I should really write one of those How to guides
and sell em for 25 bucks each. ( how to make your first million !! ) 

 Herewith Bleedin 109 brakes.

  The complication with 109 brakes is that the fluid inlet/outlet
connections on the front wheel cylinders are on the horizontal centre line.
It is thus easy for air to be trapped ABOVE the fliud  entry/ exit. and is
thus difficult to get it out ( the air ) 
 There are a variety of ways to do this, ranging from turning the vehicle on
its side  ( one side at a time ) thro pressure bleeders etc etc.

 My proven technique is to proceed as follows.
 Remove the wheel and brake drum, nearest to the brake master cylinder, i.e.
the drivers side.
add a clear  pipe from the bleed screw into a receptacle
slacken off the brake shoe adjusters so maximum  cylinder travel can be obtained
place a lever against the rear brake shoe to prevent it from moving
 Have an assistant apply movement to the brake pedal to move  the front shoe
only, say about .3" . maintain pedal position
open the bottom bleed screw
push the front brake shoe back, thus expelling fluid and air through the
bottom cylinder close the bleed nipple.
repeat the exercise several times until only clear fluid is expelled from
the system. Note repeat several times, it may take two or three atempts to
clear the top cylinder. 
maintain the fluid level in the fluid reservoir.
 NB do not reuse the fliud, once it has passed through the system it becomes
aerated thus immediate re use justs adds air into the system. If it is
clean, leave it for a few days to settle and use the top of the fliud only,
the dirt will settle to the bottom of the container

Using a lever prevent the front shoe from moving and repeat the exercise
with the rear shoe.
Relace the drum, adjust the shoes and repeat the exercise at the other side

 If necessary bleed the rear brakes in the conventional manner.

Confusion is often experienced when the rear brake hose is clamped and the
pedal improves, this is because more fluid is available for the front
brakes, and not always  the usual indicator that there is a problem with the
rears

 Hope this helps to clarify the position and my explanation is adequate.
 Happy bleedin

 I have never found pressure bleeding to completely resolve this problem.  I
even built in my own pressure bleeeding system on my 109, I made my own
pressurized fluid reservior.

 As an alternative you can always  add bleed screws to the top of the
cylinders  

 Bill Leacock  Limey in exile
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: MRogers315 <MRogers315@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 17:35:52 EST
Subject: 4.6 Engine

Cas 
Try RPI Engineering at http:\\www.rpi-engineering.co.uk (quite an entertaining
web site) that has all you ever wanted to know about upgrading your V8. Or
email direct at Chris@rpi-engineering.co.uk to get direct answers for your
problems.

Mike Rogers

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 14:38:45 -0800

------------------------------

From: MRogers315 <MRogers315@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 17:41:49 EST
Subject: Re-4.6 Engine

Bye the way I can sympathise I only have a 160BHP V8 in my Lightweight Hybrid.
How these poor souls ever cope with a 2 1/4 dragging a 109 around I do not
know.

Mike Rogers

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 14:42:31 -0800

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 14:53:02 -0800

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 17:10:25 -0800
From: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Subject: Re: Re-4.6 Engine

>Bye the way I can sympathise I only have a 160BHP V8 in my Lightweight
Hybrid.
>How these poor souls ever cope with a 2 1/4 dragging a 109 around I do not
>know.
>Mike Rogers

Arrrrrrrggggghhhh    cut it out!

some like it slow...... usually not the ones behind me :}
Peter

Peter
'60 109SW
'64 88
'70 88 (in pieces)
'73 88 (driver)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 15:07:51 -0800

------------------------------

From: Solihull <Solihull@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 18:17:55 EST
Subject: Re:  Re: early Rangie auto tranny - is it? .. couldnt be..!

Jack Walter here had a grey market 86 vogue with the AT and yes, it was a
torqueflite. There was a beefy plate between the rover f3.5 and the trans as
well. I'm thinking the motor out of a similar vintage cop specs diplomat would
go right in.
Cheers!!
John Dillingham
near Canton, GA
KF4NAS
LROA #1095
SoLaRoS #23
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 15:21:55 -0800

------------------------------

From: tadpole@zianet.com
Subject: Re: Key lock replacement
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 16:45:27 -0700

At 08:31 AM 3/23/98 PST, you wrote:
>I need to replace the key lock on the driver's door, and to keep the key 
>the same, also the tumbler lock on the rear door of my SIIa 109 SW. 

Are you looking to replace these with new cores...  I've recently looked
into this and couldn't find any available for the old style latches.  Are
you sourcing from another LR maybe?
 
>Can anyone tell me the best way to get at the cylinder, hopefully without 
>destroving the latch or the door panel?  

I simply unbolted the entire latch assembly and took it to a locksmith.  For
$15 they disassembled the cylinder and made new keys.  I imagine swapping
cores would take much less work.  You could do it yourself, just drive out
the pin that holds the clip to the rear of the core and then unscrew the
core from it's base. I personally decided that a softer touch than my own
was required.  Hope that helps (hell, I don't even know if the latch
mechanisms on your late IIA are the same as mine but it's worth a shot)

Todd Ondick
'65IIA SWB
tadpole@zianet.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 15:51:33 -0800

------------------------------

From: "MARY THOMSON" <denthomson@sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: Key lock replacement
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 19:04:46 -0500

Get a Series 1. no locks to worry about.

----------
> From: tadpole@zianet.com
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: Re: Key lock replacement
> Date: Tuesday, March 24, 1998 6:45 PM
> At 08:31 AM 3/23/98 PST, you wrote:
> >I need to replace the key lock on the driver's door, and to keep the key

> >the same, also the tumbler lock on the rear door of my SIIa 109 SW. 
> Are you looking to replace these with new cores...  I've recently looked
> into this and couldn't find any available for the old style latches.  Are
> you sourcing from another LR maybe?
> >Can anyone tell me the best way to get at the cylinder, hopefully
> >I need to replace the key lock on the driver's door, and to keep the key

without 
> >destroving the latch or the door panel?  
> I simply unbolted the entire latch assembly and took it to a locksmith. 
For
> $15 they disassembled the cylinder and made new keys.  I imagine swapping
> cores would take much less work.  You could do it yourself, just drive
out
> the pin that holds the clip to the rear of the core and then unscrew the
> core from it's base. I personally decided that a softer touch than my own
> was required.  Hope that helps (hell, I don't even know if the latch
> mechanisms on your late IIA are the same as mine but it's worth a shot)
> Todd Ondick
> '65IIA SWB
> tadpole@zianet.com

------------------------------

From: "MARY THOMSON" <denthomson@sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: Key lock replacement
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 19:07:35 -0500

Get a Series 1 no locks to worry about. Leave a pit bull on the front seat
and trust people.

----------
> From: tadpole@zianet.com
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: Re: Key lock replacement
> Date: Tuesday, March 24, 1998 6:45 PM
> At 08:31 AM 3/23/98 PST, you wrote:
> >I need to replace the key lock on the driver's door, and to keep the key

> >the same, also the tumbler lock on the rear door of my SIIa 109 SW. 
> Are you looking to replace these with new cores...  I've recently looked
> into this and couldn't find any available for the old style latches.  Are
> you sourcing from another LR maybe?
> >Can anyone tell me the best way to get at the cylinder, hopefully
> >I need to replace the key lock on the driver's door, and to keep the key

without 
> >destroving the latch or the door panel?  
> I simply unbolted the entire latch assembly and took it to a locksmith. 
For
> $15 they disassembled the cylinder and made new keys.  I imagine swapping
> cores would take much less work.  You could do it yourself, just drive
out
> the pin that holds the clip to the rear of the core and then unscrew the
> core from it's base. I personally decided that a softer touch than my own
> was required.  Hope that helps (hell, I don't even know if the latch
> mechanisms on your late IIA are the same as mine but it's worth a shot)
> Todd Ondick
> '65IIA SWB
> tadpole@zianet.com

------------------------------

From: tadpole@zianet.com
Subject: Re: rochester info...
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 17:05:55 -0700

Matt, 
For what it's worth, there are two throttle body sizes for rochester carbs,
the larger of which will cause symptoms similiar to what you describe.  The
dimensions escape me at the moment but they should be listed in the pamphlet
that accompanied the rebuild kit (or not, my kit was borg-warner. e-mail me
if you want me to dig).

It could also be the jets, I run a 46 and I drive anywhere from 5000-7000
feet in elevation without ill effects - check your altitude. 

Todd Ondick
'65 IIA SWB
tadpole@zianet.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 20:14:49 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: POR 15 availability in Europe?

Ron Beckett wrote:
> >As far as I know, they only sell there stuff directly, at least in the U.S.
> They sell in Australia.  I have their catalogue.  Don't ask me where though.
> I thought it was in the pile on the bedside table but it's not.
> Ron Beckett

And it is just too damned hot to look any where else  :-)

    John and Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 16:21:53 -0800

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 16:22:19 -0800

------------------------------

From: tadpole@zianet.com
Subject: oil pressure problem
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 17:21:52 -0700

wow... no response to my first posting, that's never happened before. Well
here's the less verbose version:

-long cross country trip-> oil pressure at gauge drops slightly (2lbs) over
course of trip.  Oil pressure warning light gradually comes on at higher and
higher oil pressure guage readings.  -> It first cane in at 20 or so lbs.
now it comes on at 58 lbs.  

The pressure gauge isn't jumpered.  The factory manual doesn't give much on
the workings of these two items, simply where they connect to. If anyone has
any info providing enlightenment upon the workings of these two arcane
pieces of land rover anatomy, I'd love to hear it. 

Todd Ondick
'65 IIA SWB
tadpole@zianet.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 16:08:13 -0800

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 16:13:42 -0800

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 16:29:30 -0800

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 20:38:31 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: oil pressure problem

tadpole@zianet.com wrote:
> wow... no response to my first posting, that's never happened before. Well
> here's the less verbose version:
> -long cross country trip-> oil pressure at gauge drops slightly (2lbs) over
> course of trip.  Oil pressure warning light gradually comes on at higher and
> higher oil pressure guage readings.  -> It first cane in at 20 or so lbs.
> now it comes on at 58 lbs.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
> pieces of land rover anatomy, I'd love to hear it.
> Todd Ondick
 If your gauge is accurate and the light sender is bad you are Ok but if
the Light is correct and the gauge is wrong then you are screwed!
 Get a new light sender unit (they are not expensive) and go from there.
   John and Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 16:36:46 -0800
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: oil pressure problem

Given that you state you have a '65, you probably have a mechanical
gauge, and it's unlikely that it's wrong.  You probably just need a new
sender for the light.  They are pretty cheap and easy to replace.

C

tadpole@zianet.com wrote:
> wow... no response to my first posting, that's never happened before. Well
> here's the less verbose version:
> -long cross country trip-> oil pressure at gauge drops slightly (2lbs) over
> course of trip.  Oil pressure warning light gradually comes on at higher and
> higher oil pressure guage readings.  -> It first cane in at 20 or so lbs.
> now it comes on at 58 lbs.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
> '65 IIA SWB
> tadpole@zianet.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 16:37:19 -0800

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 16:39:24 -0800

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 20:02:55 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Overdrives and 16" wheels

> My question: my current 88 has no o/d. AND...it has 15" wheels with
> 235/75R-15 tires. If I sprang for a set of 16" wheels with 235/85R-16
> tires
> (I _think_ that's what was on my old L-R) what would be the gain in
> effective gearing as compared to fitting a Fairy o/d and keeping the
> 15's?

The change in tires would result in around a 9% reduction in engine
speed, 3% due to the larger rims and 6% due to the taller section. I
can't find my o/d info but I think it drops engine speed by considerably
more.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Mercruiser questions was re: 3.0 liter
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 17:07:04 -0800
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>

;>I thought the mercruiser conversion was a 1 time thing.  If this is an
;>available option, I have 4 questions:

;>1. What modifications to the chassis/bodywork is needed to fit this?

Most fit in without any body work.  Some require a part of the firewall 
around the transmission to be moved back a couple of inches. Scotty has 
been fabricating a front engine mount that gets welded between the frame 
rails just in front of the engine.  Its stonger than the stock LR mount. 

;>2. What are the transmission options with this?

Scotty makes an adaptor that fits between the Mercruiser and the LR 
transmission.

;>3. What other drivetrain modifications are needed?

None

;>4. What's it cost (in roundabout numbers)?

Cost of an engine & one of Scotty adaptor kits.  Cost of a little 
welding. He is currently recommending the 140 HP Mercruiser engine.  I 
think that's about as much as the Land Rover transmission can reliably 
handle over time.  Its twice the HP as a 2-1/4 engine with 7:1 head, gets 
better petrol milage and is a lighter engine.  I've seen one that Scotty 
is currently installing.  The engine fits in there very nicely.

TeriAnn Wakeman             I subscribe to several high volume mail
Santa Cruz, California      Lists and do not read every posting. 
twakeman@cruzers.com        If you send me direct mail, please start
                            subject with TW-  so I will know to read it.

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 17:04:40 -0800

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 17:05:00 -0800

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 20:59:18 -0500 (EST)
From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Subject: Re: Mercruiser questions was re: 3.0 liter

>Hi all,
>I thought the mercruiser conversion was a 1 time thing.  If this is an
>available option, I have 4 questions:
>1. What modifications to the chassis/bodywork is needed to fit this?
>2. What are the transmission options with this?
>3. What other drivetrain modifications are needed?
>4. What's it cost (in roundabout numbers)?
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>4. What's it cost (in roundabout numbers)?
>Nate

I've been really quiet on this Davis thing going on for the past few days
but as a past customer who bought the "pig" from the guy a few years back
I've got to say something...but as my mother once told me "if you can't say
anything nice......"  No, wait..how about "buyer beware".  Sorry that I
can't remember the latin.

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
Pittsburgh, Pa.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 17:59:52 -0800

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 11:25:27 +0800
From: torque@pacific.net.sg (Lawrence Lee)
Subject: Re: Reply---SIII 6 Cyl Water Temp Sender

>We have done the 6 to 4 conversion quite a few times. Skip the bulkhead
>swap and all that major work. Remove the belt driven fan from the water
>pump, re-installl the pulley,

I used to have high temp readings on my 6cyl. Replaced sender, gauge,
voltage stabiliser, waterpump and flushed the radiator, no improvement.
Finally, replaced radiator. Temp reading dropped to normal for slow drives
(10-60km/h) but increases to redline at high speeds (in excess of 120km/h).

Dropped in a 74degree thermostat (there was no thermostat b4). Temp reading
is reversed! Slow speed driving gives an above normal temperature and high
speeds cause temp to fall back to normal (I have the temp gauge that reads
"N" in the middle of the range and "Red" at the top).

I have observed that the cause of this phenomena is because of the PO's
modification in closing off the bypass passage between the water pump and
cylinder head. This is probably done to enable the engine to run "properly"
without the thermostat. Therefore with thermostat installed, the
restriction of flow at slow speeds cause a higher than normal reading.

However, at higher speeds, the lack of a thermostat cause an imbalance in
pressure flow (revving the engine to high revs, the bottom hose that feeds
water from the radiator to the waterpump pinches shut, restricting cold
water from flowing into the engine) thus causing high temp readings.

As a temporary measure, I intend to look for a spring that fits the
Internal Diameter of the hose to keep it from pinching and remove the
thermostat. A long term fix is to remove the welds to the bypass, and
refabricate another bypass tube to the cylinder head at the next head job.

Sorry for the long post, but it took me many frustrating months trial and
error to come to this conclusion. I hope somebody can benefit from this.

On a separate matter, my viscuous clutch fan was replaced with a japanese
modification, after a broken belt took away 3 blades. My question is, how
"loose" is considered loose, or how "tight" is considered OK? In other
words, how do I tell that my clutch fan is working? I notice it to be
turning all the time, and never free for once, which I understand clutch
fans are supposed to. Any thoughts appreciated.

Lawrence Lee

Lawrence Lee,
'81 Ser III 109 2.6l "Kerbau"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 19:24:24 -0800

------------------------------

From: Jarvis 64 <Jarvis64@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 22:37:30 EST
Subject: Re:  Overdrives

The "Troy" overdrive you've heard of is probably a Toro.  I've got one.  DAP
(in VT) sells 'em and sold me mine.  It was right when I first got Mrs. Merdle
and I didn't know an overdrive wasn't just an overdrive.  I can't make any
intelligent comparison (can't do much intelligent, in fact) between the Toro
and the Fairey b/c I've never owned a Fairey.  My Toro's still fine after
probably 25-35 thousand miles or so.  Had to do a bit of work to it after I
didn't refill it quite full enough once and destroyed the pads on the selector
fork.  It holds about 2x as much oil as a Fairey, which can only be a good
thing, unless you mind buying 90wt, in which case you should probably give
your rover to me immediately.

bill rice
64 SIIA

------------------------------

From: Jarvis 64 <Jarvis64@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 22:37:22 EST
Subject: Re:  2.5 vs 2.25

Are we talking about a Chevy 2.5 here?  If so, yup I've done it--well, had it
done anyway.   Pretty (well, OK, REAL) familiar w/ what went on.  Yup, it's
way faster.  If this is what the conversation's about, let me know and I'll
contribute more.  If we're talking about Rover 2.5's (which I assume we are),
then I'll just shut up.

Bill Rice
64 SIIA 109

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 19:38:22 -0800

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 19:38:24 -0800

------------------------------

From: Jarvis 64 <Jarvis64@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 22:37:36 EST
Subject: Re:  Re: 1 ton shackles

Does anyone know the angle that the 1-ton shackle conversion wedges should be?
I don't reckon it can be much more than a few degrees.  I may get crazy and
try to make my own, doing a little 5th grade level geometry just to make
myself feel scientific (let's see, pi times the length of my propshaft before
Salisbury installation . . .)  Should the wedges be tack welded to the axle or
just held on by the U bolts and springs?

Bill Rice
64 SIIA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 19:40:29 -0800

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 20:59:08 -0800

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 00:00:01 -0500
From: Brett Storey <brstore@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: 1 ton shackles

I have the 1-ton shackles on the rear of my 88. Going on four years now and no
problem with the rear drive shaft or U-joints. While the longer shackles do tip 
the
nose of the diff up slightly, I have had no problems with this set up. If one 
were
to
do this to the front springs, than I suspect there may be a need for the 
"wedges"
Dave mentions as the nose of the diff would then be tilted down, increasing the
angle of
the front prop shaft.

Brett

d.h.lowe wrote:
Are you intending to modify your chassis hangers at the front mount of the
rear springs, or just fit the longer shackle plates? If you just fit the plates
alone you will tilt the nose of the diff and give yourself  problems with your
U-joints.You should fit "wedges" under the spring perches if you are not
going to change the frame These will equalise the angle.The crossmember
holes are the same.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 22:45:35 -0800

------------------------------

From: "Bill Fishel" <bfishel@cisnet.com>
Subject: inertia starter cross reference ??
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 17:02:21 -0500

Hi all

Was wondering if anybody knows of any other engines that used the inertia
type starter used on SerIIA 2.25 engine. My starter seems to be dying and 
the closest Lucas parts dealer has alot of used Triumphs. Any ideas.

Enjoyed the posts by TerriAnn Wakeman. 

Bill Fishel

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258 <CIrvin1258@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 02:28:30 EST
Subject: Re: rochester info...

I was once told, that I should run a 50-51 jet in the Rochester on my 88", but
it was WAY too fat. I ended up using somewhere around a 42-46. It STILL spits
out a bit of black smoke, even after playing with the timing/valve
adjustments/using fuel additives/various grades of fuel.

Remember - older vehicles were designed to run properly on 91-100 octane
LEADED fuel. Seeing hows the best you can get these days, is 87-89 octane
Unleaded, we can only do the best that we can.

Charles
(maybe Mogas would do the trick?)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 23:29:22 -0800

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 08:57:11 +0100
From: Joost Kramer <jkramer@best.ms.philips.com>
Subject: Re: rochester info...

> If you need lots of choke, it means that the mixture getting to the
> cylinders is to lean.  Could mean anything from a bad float level, to
> vacuum leaks in the intake.

Yes, or some "dirt" in the idle jet. Last weekend my LR was not capable
of running idle, unless I used the choke. After a long check for the
electric part, it was the carb. But my carb is completly sealed with a
gasket improver, so I air blasted the carb from the outside (after I
toke it off) and everything is fine again.

Joost Kramer

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 98 0:00:30 -0800

------------------------------

From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: POR 15 availability
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 19:43:50 +1000

>If you find the catalogue and/or who sells it in AUstralia I'd be grateful
>if you'd let me know

I saw the stuff being demonstrated at a recent swap meet.  It's a bit
pricey.

I found the catalogue.  It was on the bookshelf behind me!

The contact in Australia:

Permanent  Painted Coatings Pty Ltd
Unit 8, 4 Prosperity Parade
(PO Box 3003)
Warriewood
NSW 2102

Tel:  1800 643 229 (if outside Sydney calling area)
tel (02) 9999-0122
fax (02) 9999-0394

Ron

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 98 1:07:07 -0800

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 09:29:32 +0000
Subject: Re: Re-4.6 Engine

I wouldn't feel safe driving a 109" at 80mph!
And they say 109"s are smoother than 88"s.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

nosimport@mailbag.com on 03/25/98 01:10:25 AM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Re: Re-4.6 Engine

>Bye the way I can sympathise I only have a 160BHP V8 in my Lightweight
Hybrid.
>How these poor souls ever cope with a 2 1/4 dragging a 109 around I do not
>know.
>Mike Rogers
Arrrrrrrggggghhhh    cut it out!
some like it slow...... usually not the ones behind me :}
Peter
'60 109SW
'64 88
'70 88 (in pieces)
'73 88 (driver)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 98 1:27:49 -0800

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