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Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 13:26:32 +0100
From: Bernd Jonas <Bernd.Jonas@munich.netsurf.de>
Subject: Re: gearbox question

Hi (Richard)!	
I used the gearstick and without the top, the engaging def. is properly.
I took a lot of grease at the rods. But nothing helped.
Could it be, the top is no more plan enough, because onle the re rod
isn´t working well?

BERND JONAS

------------------------------

From: "Bod (Ian Boddison)" <bod.glass@mail.easynet.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 12:41:12 +0000
Subject: Re: Series one brake problems

> The front wheels lock up but the right rear just engages and the
> left rear dosent engage at all. I have replaced the rear brake shoes
> and checked the cylinders for leaks. Also the master cylinder has
> been replaced .

SI Brakes have never been renouned for their efficiency but they are 
usually quite good at working evenly when set up right.

If the fronts are locking then the master is probably  working OK.  
Check that the single pipe that runs from the front to the rear 
(supplying fluid to the rear brakes) has not got bent or squashed.  
It may be partially blocked but that is slightly more difficult to 
check.  Are the front shoes fitted correctly and do they brake 
smoothly?  If they are 'floating' about then that could cause the 
locking as they move 'in & out' accross the surface of the drum.

Failing that, take the drums off and get someone to (gently) press 
the brake pedal whilst you observe each of the cylinders working (or 
otherwise) and that may give you some clues.   It is possible, but 
unlikely, that a return spring has rusted solid but that only really 
happens if it has not been used for a very long time.

Cheers,           Bod.
  
     

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 08:12:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Series one brake problems

Different engagements....hmmm.

Have you throughly flushed the system? I'd begin to suspect line
restrictions causing problems, especially if the car had sat for a while.
The rubber lines (the flexible bits hooking the steel lines together) may
well have disintegrated internally and caused partial flow at the rear
wheels. Also inspect the main line coming down the chassis - could it have
gotten pinched or kinked? If so, replace it - it's not a horrid job.

I'd replace the flex lines, and if possible blow the steel lines through
thoroughly to check for proper flow.

                    Alan R.

------------------------------

From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Subject: 'cold galvanizing' 'paint' - any body use this stuff ?
Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 18:22:35 +1000

Bill C asks:

>'cold galvanizing' 'paint' - any body use this stuff ?

Bill,

I used to be the manager of a submarine cable comms station on Norfolk
Island in the Pacific Ocean.  The building is at the top of the cliff at
Anson Bay.  The wind pushes salt spray up the cliff and all over the
building and ancilliary stuff.  We used cold gal paint for lots of stuff and
it seemed to work well.

But it doesn't look like galvanising.  Just thick grey paint.  We tended to
use the brush on variety rather than spray cans because we bought it in 4
litre drums.

Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, NSW, Australia (02) 4735-6883
Editor, Hillman Owners Club of Australia Newsletter
check my home page at http://www.users.bigpond.com/hillman
for Hillman and Rover

------------------------------

From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Subject: Salisbury
Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 18:03:38 +1000

dbobeck wrote:
>I've heard of other cars with Salisburys but don't remmeber which ones.

I'm pretty sure my old 1955 Jaguar Mk VII used a Salisbury diff.  I could go
the garage and get the workshop manual but it's too hot outside.

Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, NSW, Australia (02) 4735-6883
Editor, Hillman Owners Club of Australia Newsletter
check my home page at http://www.users.bigpond.com/hillman
for Hillman and Rover

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 09:46:31 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Series one brake problems

Michael Clark wrote:
> Is it possible to get a brake booster for the series 1 SWB?
> Or if anyone can please help me with the following problem.
> The front wheels lock up but the right rear just engages and the left
> rear dosent engage at all.
> I have replaced the rear brake shoes and checked the cylinders for
> leaks. Also the master cylinder has been replaced .

In spite of the other helpful reponses it almost certain that you have a
seized piston in the right rear cylinder and both pistond siezed in the
left. A little absorbed moisture in the brake fluid+ aluminum cylinders
+ steel pistons + a little time = stuck brakes. BTDT
   John and Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 09:50:56 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: gearbox question

Bernd Jonas wrote:
> Hi (Richard)!
> I used the gearstick and without the top, the engaging def. is properly.
> I took a lot of grease at the rods. But nothing helped.
> Could it be, the top is no more plan enough, because onle the re rod
> isn´t working well?
> BERND JONAS

  Bernd   are you sure that you have the original top to go your gear
box? It must be the correct one or you will get the problems you
describe.
    John and Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 09:54:30 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Salisbury

Ron Beckett wrote:
> dbobeck wrote:
> >I've heard of other cars with Salisburys but don't remmeber which ones.
> I'm pretty sure my old 1955 Jaguar Mk VII used a Salisbury diff.  I could go
> the garage and get the workshop manual but it's too hot outside.

  
Oh just Quit the whining Ron! It is supposed to be the 2nd day of spring
and it's snowing like hell here (whoops kind of screwed up metaphor
there)
    John and Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 15:04:09 +0100
From: Johan Helsingius <Johan.Helsingius@EU.net>
Subject: Re: Land Rover Series IIA crankshaft?

At 16 Mar 1998 13:32:16 +0100 Ketil Kirkerud Elgethun <ketilk@a.sol.no> wrote:

> ---Ketil Kirkerud Elgethun, 1979 109" SW, 21/4 Petrol - "Lillebil"

Uh, if the 109 is the "Lillebil", what is your *big* car? :)

	Johan "Julf" Helsingius, Amsterdam, The Netherlands
	SIII 109 Carawagon Tactical Command Post (aka Commander's Caravan)

------------------------------

From: "Steve Stoneham" <stoneham@kos.net>
Subject: Re:NADA Just asking
Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 21:20:48 -0500
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ]
	charset="iso-8859-1"

In part two of a LR workshop manual from 1969 the following circuit =
diagram is reffered to on page 9-N :
"North American dollar area,2.6 litre 109 Station Wagon,LHStg,negative =
earth."

lays that one to rest...
Regards,
Steve

------=_NextPart_000_0016_01BD550F.37B7BA60
	[ Original post was HTML ]
	charset="iso-8859-1"

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.2110.0"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>In part two of a LR workshop manual =
from 1969
the following circuit diagram is reffered to on page 9-N :</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&quot;North American dollar area,2.6 =
litre 109
Station Wagon,LHStg,negative earth.&quot;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT color=3D#000000 =
size=3D2>lays that one
to rest...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Regards,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Steve</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0016_01BD550F.37B7BA60--

------------------------------

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Subject: Re: "Light Duty" Diesel Terms
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 07:49:29 -0700

JIm,

Could you speak to the pros and cons of using a Mercedes 300 I-5 on a 109.
I've spoken to a mechanic familiar with LR's and with diesels who made the
suggestion.

Yours'

John Wood

------------------------------

From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Subject: Im in the "not Pack" - should I?
Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 06:27:29 -0800

I never packed mine either.  Should I?  No esoteric reasons for either
please - techno reasons appreciated!  What did they do from the factory?
What are the guys on the small Island across the pond doing?

Cheers
David
Stay at Home Father
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
Ural Motorcycle - S/V KALAKALA, Ingrid 38, ketch

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 16:01:38 +0100
From: Johan Helsingius <Johan.Helsingius@EU.net>
Subject: Re: Web-Page Update

At Tue, 17 Mar 1998 13:45:29 Duncan Phillips <dunk@ivanhoe.soc.staffs.ac.uk> 
wrote:

>All comments welcome (preferably constructive ones- no flames please I'm
>British!!).

>http://Gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~cmtdmp/play/lrover/

I like the contents, but does it really have to drop cookies at every possible
turn?

	Johan "Julf" Helsingius, Amsterdam, The Netherlands
	SIII 109 Carawagon Tactical Command Post (aka Commander's Caravan)

------------------------------

From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Bj=F8rnung_Jensen?=" <bjjen13b@online.no>
Subject: Rebuilding series 1 86" axles
Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 16:57:24 +0100

This proved even harder than expected.

>From what I have read, I knew I was attempting something rather difficult
when trying to dismantle a Series 1 86" rear axle (semi floating), without
having access to a hydraulic press. Although I have finally been able to
grind away the hub retaining collar on one side, the hub with bearing will
still not come off, even with moderate (damned hard) hammering on the shaft
while supporting the hub and brake plate.

Any suggestions?

Bjørnung Jensen
Norway

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY <AKBLACKLEY@aol.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 11:10:25 EST
Subject: Removing Nut on Back of tranny

When I did this one a few years back I did most of the things already
mentioned. With the rear prop shaft off you need the four wheel drive engaged
to help lock the shaft. With the front wheels chocked, transmission brake on,
I also had my wife sit in the drivers seat and stand on the brake pedal to
help keep the front wheels from turning, while I applied my 210 lbs, with
appropriate four letter incantations, on a 1/2" drive breaker bar with a pipe
extention. It came loose pretty quick after that. Good Luck. Andy

------------------------------

From: TBache9248 <TBache9248@aol.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 12:22:52 EST
Subject: Parts from the UK

Hi List,
A quick note to those comtemplating a purchase binge in the UK and first time
buyers.  Last weekend 3 of us went over to search out parts/bargains/arrange
for group trip to Billings in July.  Always ask for the VAT rebate form.  Even
the dealer has them, unfortunately, most don't know how they work.  The fine
print at the bottom of the form says you must see the Customs officer BEFORE
check-in at the airport to get the forms stamped, and the forms must be filled
out by the selling dealer and you.  Supposedly there is an envelope that goes
with it and you mail it back.
We were told by everyone that we just get a stamp and mail it back to the
seller and they credit/refund the money.  Don't know for certain as we didn't
find the Customs person until we were in line to board the plane.  Supposedly
I can get a letter from a notary here and submit showing that I really did
export the parts.  Will advise all if this works.
DLS was the cheapest on the diff protectors-31.50L BPS  151.00 L BPS for the
front skid plate.  Craddocks were 35.00L and 167.00 L for same exact thing.
Saw very first SAS 86" at Blanchards, along with a Centaur, and a Pink
Panther.  Hooked up with a fellow in the SVO Dept at Solihull and our group
will get a tour of this area as well as the factory tour.  Those
comptemplating the Driving Experience-157.00L and is all day.  Taught in three
levels.
The dealer in Solihull said the he understood that the US would be getting
110's again in a different form with in the next year or so.  SVO says they
tried and tried to work it out with the US regs an says not.  I guess this is
how rumors get started.  did see a 110 SAS in the back lot, and a 130 crewcab
(sharp), not a hi-cap.
We drove a diesel Freelander-LRNA missed the boat here.  Also a diesel
Discovery-a little noisey, but a better stick shift vehicle than the US v-8 as
the revs match the road speed better so it is smoother to drive.
got the official ladder for the back door on my discovery from a dealer at
half the quoted price here, and they chimed in with a 10% discount without me
even asking.  More to tell, no time here.  Great trip  all in all.  

Tom Bache

------------------------------

Date: 	Sat, 21 Mar 1998 19:30:13 +0100
From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Subject: heater plugs

The story continues. I have taken away all the heater plugs and cleaned
them from carbon. Before I did this the orange light indicating heater plug
action first glowed very weakly and gradually got stronger. Now when I try
to start this orange light gets bright immediately which, according to my
manual should indicate short circut. I have tested each plug in situ using
a testlamp and they all look all right. Is my assumption about short circut
correct and is it possible to test which plug that might cause the problem?
Are there other possible sources for short circut that I might look out for?

And, yes I still have air in my fuelsystem...

Peter
_____________________________________________________

Peter Thoren
Work:  Department of Genetics
       Uppsala University
       Box 7003; S-750 07 Uppsala
       Phone: +46 18 67 12 69
       Fax:   +46 18 67 27 05
       e-mail peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se

Home:  Långmyrtorp
       740 20 Vänge
       Phone/fax: +46 18 39 20 56
       e-mail: same as above
______________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 14:49:43 -0500
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: Bleedin fuel pumps

One of the possible problems that you face with either the petrol or diesel
fuel pump is that the pump stroke can be limited if the cam position is such
that the arm is lifted. Solution  rotate the engine so that the pump is off
stroke.

 test, remove the pipe from the fuel pump at the filter, one pump, how miuch
fuel is emitted ? should be a very healthy spurt
 Try turning the engine a half turn and repeat, does the fuel spurt increase ?
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

Subject: 20 years ago this month
Date: Sat, 21 Mar 98 12:13:39 -0800
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>

It was 20 years ago this month when I first met and fell in love with The 
Green Rover.  

No wonder the car feels more like a part of me than a possession.  I 
fondly remember the year she turned 21 and I took her to a filling 
station for her first tank of gasohol.  And now at 38 years, I look at 
her more as a spry little old lady in tennis shoes ready to go out and 
conquer the world

I celebration of 20 years together, I thought I would post a page out of 
my web site describing the known history of the Green Rover.

A girl and her Rover

It was in the early spring of 1978 when I first laid eyes on the Green 
Rover. I had been out for a drive in my 1969 Land Rover 88. I was feeling 
a little nostalgic and had decided to drive by a house I used to live in. 
Sitting beside the house under a canopy of redwood trees was a green 109 
pickup. Noticing that her tyres were sunk an inch or so into the soil and 
that she had a deep coat of redwood needles, I quickly deduced that here 
sat an unloved and most likely a nonruning Land Rover.

Just the month before, I had finely made the decision that my 88 needed 
to be replaced by a car that could hold more than two bales of hay and 
two adult dairy goats. Sitting forlornly in front of me was the logical 
solution to my problem. 

I got out of my 88 and knocked on the door. No one was home. I took a 
quick look at the 109. She was an older model than my 1969. Long ago, 
someone had sprayed her original limestone white paint with a gray primer 
and Hunter green paint from a spray can. The paint was applied to the 
entire body, including the zinc work and was oxidized and pealing. The 
pickup top was pushed in from a weight on top. The upholstery had a 
number of tares but seemed complete. The car was shod with a set of 
Michelin XCLs, with the tread almost gone. The front had a huge electric 
winch sitting behind a home made brush bar. There were holders for a pair 
of European sized Gerry cans in the front and a pair in the rear.

The front left wing showed deep bondo cracks. The frame seemed solid, but 
the exhaust system resembled Swiss cheese. The rear had the tail light 
lenses moved up and inward to allow space for a pair of Gerry cans in the 
rear. The rear jerry can mounts were on the frame where the lift bars 
were originally located. 

The license plate lamp was inverted to shine on a license plate mounted 
on a camper that was no longer bolted to the car. All that remained were 
large mounting holes in the bed of the car, a pair of rusting steel water 
tanks sitting in the cut away rear tool boxes, and a 5 gallon propane 
tank mounted below the side bench between the right rear tyre and the the 
front right fuel tank.

It looked like this 109 had been outfitted as a long range expedition car 
in her younger days. I imagined what she looked like back then, A white 
pickup sitting atop four Michelin XCL tyres, a black rectangular brush 
bar, bonnet mounted spare and a big winch up front. A camper of some kind 
bolted to the bed behind the cab and a Gerry can at each corner.

 With two front under seat tanks and four Gerry tanks, she had a long 
range. There was a decal in her front window, a stylized green 88 Land 
Rover with words in Spanish. I wondered where this car had gone and how 
she ended up here in such a sad neglected state. 

Since the peeling green paint coated the water tanks and inside of the 
bed, I deduced that it was applied after the camper was removed. It was 
love at first sight.

I returned a couple of days later and met the owner of the Green Rover. 
>From him, I learned her history. She is a 1960 Land Rover, originally 
sold into Eastern Canada. At some time in her past, she moved down to New 
Hampshire. The person who owned the car at that time had died and the 
current owner inherited her around 1974. He brought her to California. 

He was not mechanical and thought that you only needed to put oil in the 
engine. He drove her until the rear differential ran dry, put her into 
four wheel drive and drove her for another half year until the transfer 
case went dry. She had been sitting beside the house where she had been 
towed to for almost 2 years. I purchased the Green Rover for US$350 and 
towed her home.

An inspection showed that everything on the car was worn out and loose. 
An old expedition Land Rover had fallen to a sad state that very few cars 
recover from. 

After replacing the battery and cables, I turned the engine over on the 
starter motor. Everything seemed Ok. Encouraged, I changed the oil, 
cleaned out the sediment bowel in the fuel pump, the float bowel in the 
Solex and added fresh petrol. The engine fired right up. It was like she 
was telling me that she wasn't dead, just neglected and in need of some 
loving help.

Early on she received her name, The Green Rover.  My red 88 was named 
after a children's game I used to play...  Red Rover, Red Rover send 
TeriAnn right over... So the Green one became "The Green Rover" to tell 
her apart from the Red Rover.  Not an inspired way to name a car.  But 
somehow it stuck even after I sold the 88.

It took a few months for me to rebuild the transfer case, replace the 
differential, the loose 'U' joints and the exhaust system. By fall of 
1978 the Green Rover was mobile and registered for the road.

For the next fourteen years, the Green Rover led the life of a farm 
vehicle. Once a week she would go to the feed store and be loaded with 
seven bales of hay and several grain sacks. She carried Dairy goats to 
the county fair; was loaded to the roof line in manure once every few 
months and provided general support. Her winch was used mainly to string 
fencing and pull my tractor out of trouble.

During those years I had been slowly replacing worn parts as they broke 
and tightening loose parts. Whenever she needed work, I tried to do 
something additional to help improve her overall condition. Somewhere 
along the line, she stopped sounding like a metal bucket partially full 
of loose bolts every time she went over a bump. Her pickup top was 
replaced by a tropical top so I could haul feed and livestock in the 
rain. 

Still this ex-expedition vehicle looked like a tired worn out car with 
her pealing paint and duct taped seat covers. Since dairy animals need to 
be milked twice a day, every day, trips were few, far between and short.

In 1992, I made the decision to change my lifestyle by selling off the 
livestock. With the animals gone, I was able to start taking camping 
trips more often and started work to make the Green Rover more reliable 
for long distance driving. 

I started systematically replacing worn out assemblies. By mid 1995, she 
had had her engine and transmission rebuilt, both front fuel tanks 
replaced, an new dual power brake system installed, a new radiator 
installed and much more. She had gone from being a tired farm Land Rover 
to a solid long distance driver. Her trips were mostly weekend in length 
and she was seldom out for longer than a week.

Feeling the draw of the wild, I made the decision for go the full circle 
and return the Green Rover back into being a long range expedition 
vehicle. I decided that I wanted to take a different approach than her 
original owner did. I wanted the modifications to be integral to the car, 
keep the centre of gravity as low as possible and not to add protrusions 
that can be ripped off by branches if I could help it.

First I spent some time deciding what I wanted the car to be optimized 
for and created a design specification for the "New expedition Green 
Rover".

Once I created the specification, I spent time looking at many modified 
Land Rovers, camper conversions, caravans and RVs. I took my design 
specifications from the best modifications and expedition related 
features that I found, added my own thoughts and modified the Green Rover 
into a heavy duty long range expedition vehicle. I spent most of my free 
time for a year making the modifications.

In mid-August, 1997, with the body work completed, the interior mostly 
installed The Green Rover received a coat of 1973 Jaguar British Racing 
Green . A week later, I loaded my Irish wolf hound, Lacy, into the back 
and we started a two month long trip through the Western United States 
and Canada.

I had an absolutely wonderful time living in the Land Rover and following 
my whims. I knew I had done the right things and most of my designs 
worked better than I had hoped.

When I got back and described my expedition to friends they called it the 
trip of a lifetime. As much as I enjoyed it, I sure hope that the trip 
was not MY trip of a lifetime. I want to look forward and not backwards.

With this in mind, I have been refining parts of the Green Rover's 
designs, reinforcing parts that did not stand up quite as well as I had 
hoped and have already scheduled two long expeditions for the first half 
of 1998.

I dream of someday loading the Green Rover onto a ship and returning her 
to the place of her birth for a visit, then perhaps drive through Europe 
and then who knows where.

The Green Rover and I are always looking forwards to the trip of a 
lifetime. not backwards.

TeriAnn Wakeman             I subscribe to several high volume mail
Santa Cruz, California      Lists and do not read every posting. 
twakeman@cruzers.com        If you send me direct mail, please start
                            subject with TW-  so I will know to read it.

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

From: "Mark Talbot" <rangerover@top.monad.net>
Subject: off-road event in NH in April 
Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 15:23:03 -0500

I'm planning a "NH Spring Romp" through the woods of South West NH. This
will be a variation on the trails travelled in January. River crossings,
lots of mud holes !

Lunch at the waterfalls, water should be running in April. This will be mud
season up here, so come prepared to get yourself and you vehicle muddy.

Date :  Sunday 19th April
Time :  Leave approx. 11am.

Limit to 12 vehicles

E-mail if interested.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 12:57:18 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Series one brake problems

Michael Clark wrote:

> Is it possible to get a brake booster for the series 1 SWB?

Not that I'm aware of; you'd have to convert.  BUT I think thatwould only
exacerbate your problem.

> The front wheels lock up but the right rear just engages and the left
> rear dosent engage at all.

Since S1's don't have proportioning valves in the brake system, I'd
beprepared to wager that you've actually got a bum component or components
in the rear.  Lock up of the front indicates a functioning master.  Partial
function of the rear suggest either:

blockage of flow through the lines or junctions
bad cylinders at the rear
bad adjustment of the brake linings

It's probably easiest to work your way through these from the last up.
Have the lines been replaced/rebuilt?  If not your have a good risk
of tearing them when disconnecting them so have spares at hand and
the tools to double flare the lines.

cheers

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 16:11:01 -0500
From: Shaun Oriold <soriold@worldchat.com>
Subject: LR or RR for scout group

I belong to a scout group who could use a RR or LR.  if anybody has one
that they are willing to sell for a reasonable price please contact me.
we are on dire need of one, any model will do.  any DONATIONS will be
accepted.  upon purchase I can and will prove that i am buying it for
scout use.

Shaun Oriold
2nd Burlington

------------------------------

From: MRogers315 <MRogers315@aol.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 17:11:37 EST
Subject: Re: NADA? Just Asking.

In a message dated 3/20/98 10:26:13 PM, you wrote:

>>Mark Freeman wrote:
>>> I know that it's commonly accepted that NADA is the acronym for: North
>>> American Dollar Area. I have a question for the NADA sages on this
>Yeah, while we're at it, where is the South American Dollar Area (Miami?)
>Doesn't the use of "North" imply the existence of a "South" 

Always thought the American colonies were divided with what is now known as
the USA along with Canada forming North America, and Peru, Chille, Argentina
Etc forming South America.

Mike Rogers 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 05:31:19 -0500
From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Subject: Re: gearbox question

Is the gearbox top the original unit? It is not possible to swap the top
from a different main box. They are machined as one unit.Are the two oil
seal retaining plates at the selector shaft output binding on the shafts.
Are they on backwards?

Bernd Jonas wrote:

> Hi (Richard)!
> I used the gearstick and without the top, the engaging def. is properly.
> I took a lot of grease at the rods. But nothing helped.
> Could it be, the top is no more plan enough, because onle the re rod
> isn´t working well?
> BERND JONAS

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 05:41:55 -0500
From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Subject: Re: Salisbury

Thanks Ron and John      I have just come inside to thaw out after changing the
brake pads on my SDI. I had to move a snowdrift to get to the wheel.We have had 
6"
snow  this morning and with a windchill of -15.C. This is the first day of
spring??????
john cranfield wrote:

> Ron Beckett wrote:
> > dbobeck wrote:
> > >I've heard of other cars with Salisburys but don't remmeber which ones.
> > I'm pretty sure my old 1955 Jaguar Mk VII used a Salisbury diff.  I could go
> > the garage and get the workshop manual but it's too hot outside.
> Oh just Quit the whining Ron! It is supposed to be the 2nd day of spring
> and it's snowing like hell here (whoops kind of screwed up metaphor
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> there)
>     John and Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 19:27:10 -0500
From: Robert M McCullough <dieselbob@erols.com>
Subject: Peter Thoren---air,glow plugs

if you still have air in your fuel system lets stop and think what you
have done. if you only replaced the fuel filter, make sure you have
replaced both fuel filter housing o-rings with new ones. do you have
just a single filter or twin filter or a single with a sedimentator on
the chassis under the right seat? make sure you put a new copper or thin
aluminum washer of the correct size under the bolt that holds the filter
housing bottom to the top. you may be sucking air in there. also where
you bleed the air out (the banjo bolt) (where you see the fuel come out)
might need to have new washers also. you should not have to bleed the
injection pump, only if air is introduced into it. make sure what you
think is air, is air, not spurting foam. open the banjo bolt up.  when i
change my filters, usually i do not have to bleed the air from the top
of the filter housings or the two screws on the injection pump. i go to
the fuel line coming from the fuel filter housing, to where the fuel
line enters into the top of the injection pump. it's a 11/16"sae or
5/8". that also is a banjo bolt. make sure all your lines are tight.
open this banjo bolt up...operate the fuel mechanical lift pump on the
lower side of the engine until you see fuel coming out of the line.
tighten and she should start. if you do not get any fuel, you are either
not creating a vacuum; possibly you have a bad fuel lift pump, or a
loose fuel fitting (check everything back to the fuel tank)or you are
out of fuel. let me know. as far as glow plugs the best way to see if
they are working while installed is to have someone hold the switch in
the correct position, take a test lamp (an old tail light) with the two
wires with having alligator clips, and connect one clip to a ground
(rocker cover), start at the glow plug nearest the firewall and it
should light. which ever point that it does not light up, the connection
before it,(the wires or glow plug or heater resistor), is where the
fault is. should you have a bad glow plug, you do not need to have all
of them working, merely disconnect the bad one, connect the wires
together, insulate the connection and off you go.

------------------------------

From: "P Burgers" <PBURGERS@CPLS.WCAPE.GOV.ZA>
Date:          Sun, 22 Mar 1998 08:57:05 +0200
Subject:       Re: gearbox question

> Is the gearbox top the original unit? It is not possible to swap the top
> from a different main box. They are machined as one unit.Are the two oil

As a last resort, the non-matching top and main box can be taken to
an engineer and line bored to ensure matching.
Peter B
Cape Town

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258 <CIrvin1258@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 05:06:14 EST
Subject: Re: Peter Thoren---air,glow plugs

"...You should not have to bleed the injector pump..."

SOMETIMES!

I had to replace my fuel filter last year, when I was in Reno, and I ended up
bleeding my injector pump, because the truck wouldn't start!

Forgot to mention the part about the cam being in the right spot: I had that
problem in Reno, too!

Charles

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