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Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 12:59:53 +0100
From: Bernd Jonas <Bernd.Jonas@munich.netsurf.de>
Subject: gearbox question

Hi There!
I overhauled my gearbox (88 SIII diesel) last months.
Yesterday all parts where on the right place and i tested a last time if
every gear (1st-4th and re) is ok. the gears where lightly, smoothly to
switch. At this time only the top-head was not on the box, so i could
see the three shifting shafts operating.
Thought everything is ok, putted on the head and took the box in the
car.
Now problems began:
1st-4th gear are operating well, but i´m not able to shift the re. I
opened the head-screws a littlebit aaaand re was working to.
Opened the head again and looked for dust or something that could brake
the re-shifter. Nothing to see. Cleaned the head, the shifters, the
balls and bolts and tried it again, but same problem occurs.

Has anybody an idea what the problem could be or how to solve it?
abrasive-paper
My idea is to give the shifter-housings in the head and the box a little
more play by using abrasive paper or steel-wool.

Bye 
BERND JONAS
LR 88 SIII 2,25 diesel 1972
Munich, Germany

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 12:08:52 +0000
Subject: Re: gearbox question

When you are checking it without the top on, is it engaging properly?
(ie. have you tried turning the shafts?)

I found in this position, it needed a lot of effort - you don't have the
leverage of the gearstick.

The selector rods need to be greased, too.
(I think the manual says Mb grease)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

Bernd.Jonas@munich.netsurf.de on 03/20/98 11:59:53 AM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  gearbox question

Hi There!
I overhauled my gearbox (88 SIII diesel) last months.
Yesterday all parts where on the right place and i tested a last time if
every gear (1st-4th and re) is ok. the gears where lightly, smoothly to
switch. At this time only the top-head was not on the box, so i could
see the three shifting shafts operating.
Thought everything is ok, putted on the head and took the box in the
car.
Now problems began:
1st-4th gear are operating well, but i4m not able to shift the re. I
opened the head-screws a littlebit aaaand re was working to.
Opened the head again and looked for dust or something that could brake
the re-shifter. Nothing to see. Cleaned the head, the shifters, the
balls and bolts and tried it again, but same problem occurs.
Has anybody an idea what the problem could be or how to solve it?
abrasive-paper
My idea is to give the shifter-housings in the head and the box a little
more play by using abrasive paper or steel-wool.
Bye
BERND JONAS
LR 88 SIII 2,25 diesel 1972
Munich, Germany

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 07:20:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Handbrake Question

First off, Derek, if you want to study anthropology then Harvard Square
after dark on a Friday is a great place to observe cultural
rituals...<grin>

Yes, the parts from a Series IIa will fit the handbrake on a Series III
transmission. It's essentially the same box all the way down to the Seies
1, except for changes in the bellcrank and its mounting on the chassis.

I have one, but from Chelmsford, MA. the shipping may be a bit steep...

          Have fun! Alan/Mr. Churchill

------------------------------

Date: 	Fri, 20 Mar 1998 14:37:05 +0100
From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Subject: Help needed with diesel fuel filter

I am about to go berzerk (not a good start in my Landrover experience...).
I have changed the diesel fuel filter and now I am bleeding the system
(according to the manual). The air never seems to end! How long does it
take to handpump the air out? My handpumping hand is feeling bad about the
whole situation... I have checked if there is air in the diesel pump (none
detected). I have also taken apart the filter holder twice to make sure the
paperfilter and all the seals are at the right place. Are there any
marvelous tricks one can do that helps? The car is a SIII 109 diesel and I
am lnadrover owner since last Tuesday...

All help very much appreciated!

Peter
_____________________________________________________

Peter Thoren
Work:  Department of Genetics
       Uppsala University
       Box 7003; S-750 07 Uppsala
       Phone: +46 18 67 12 69
       Fax:   +46 18 67 27 05
       e-mail peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se

Home:  Långmyrtorp
       740 20 Vänge
       Phone/fax: +46 18 39 20 56
       e-mail: same as above
______________________________________________________

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 08:43:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Help needed with diesel fuel filter

The pump pumps little with each stroke, so that if the volume to be filled
is large it can take a while..

I remember this from my own LR Diesel experiences - it is annoying.

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 8:57:29 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Help needed with diesel fuel filter

If you're really getting tired, remove the bonnet, crack open the bleed 
screw then get inside and run the engine via the starter motor (it might 
even fire). When diesel starts spraying all over the engine bay, you'll 
know you have the air out of the filter.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 14:08:24 +0000
Subject: Re: Help needed with diesel fuel filter

<ignore=diesel/petrol rant>

Of course, with the petrol engine, it has the hand-pump, but it is also
self-priming.
Ie. just run the starter motor, and it will chug into action in a matter
seconds!   :-)

Rather good thing, 'cos the changeover tap can get knocked in 109 GS/FFRs
like mine. The feed pipe from the tap to the pump will then be full of air.

(I've never done this with an empty sediment bowl though, you might flatten
the battery!)

With an empty bowl, I think it took a minute or so to fill by hand - I've
only had to do it once. Come to think of it, I should be due to clean the
bowl & filter.....

</ignore>

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

badams@usia.gov on 03/20/98 01:57:29 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Re: Help needed with diesel fuel filter

If you're really getting tired, remove the bonnet, crack open the bleed
screw then get inside and run the engine via the starter motor (it might
even fire). When diesel starts spraying all over the engine bay, you'll
know you have the air out of the filter.
Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 06:13:55 -0800 (PST)
From: "Paul Gussack" <pcg@tennis.org>
Subject: LRNA Lodge

Ok, 
all you in the great wide west.  Just where is Vallecito Lake Valley Colorado? 
My father being a new Land Rover purchaser has sent in his app. and has invited
yours truly to go with him.  Father & son bonding time.  I, however, am curious
as to the location of this mythical place.  

Thanks
Paul G
SIII SWB "Grendal"

------------------------------

From: Lodelane <Lodelane@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 09:26:18 EST
Subject: Re: Help needed with diesel fuel filter

Peter,

Did you refill the filter housing with fuel each time you removed it?  If not,
you are going to have to pump forever to get all the air out of the system.

Larry  Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

From: "Peter Monk" <monk@calypso.math.udel.edu>
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 09:44:02 -0500
Subject: Prop-shafts

Hi
I have a SWB IIa.  When it arrived one prop-shaft was off and the other very
sick (bad UJ). Also the rear one had the protective boot on.  So maybe they
were installed back to front.  Here's the question:  How do I tell which
prop-shaft is which?

Thanks in advance,
Peter

-- 
Address: Department of Mathematical Sciences  | Phone: 302-831-1873
         University of Delaware               | FAX  : 302-831-4511
         Newark, DE 19716 
         USA
WWW    : http://www.math.udel.edu/~monk

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 14:42:52 +0000
Subject: Re: Prop-shafts

By protective boot, do you mean the gaitor that sits over the splines?

If not, then SIIas must be different from SIIIs in this respect!

If you do mean this gaitor, both propshafts should have a gaitor.

As for telling them apart, they are probably different lengths, but I don't
know.
I have a 109" so the difference is obvious!  :-)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

monk@calypso.math.udel.edu on 03/20/98 02:44:02 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Prop-shafts

Hi
I have a SWB IIa.  When it arrived one prop-shaft was off and the other
very
sick (bad UJ). Also the rear one had the protective boot on.  So maybe they
were installed back to front.  Here's the question:  How do I tell which
prop-shaft is which?
Thanks in advance,
Peter
--
Address: Department of Mathematical Sciences  | Phone: 302-831-1873
         University of Delaware               | FAX  : 302-831-4511
         Newark, DE 19716
         USA
WWW    : http://www.math.udel.edu/~monk

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 09:37:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Prop-shafts

Propshafts:

The longer one goes to the front - the shorter one to the back of the car.

Be careful how you mount them - the bit with the sliding joint in it
doesn't go to the transmission on one, but it does on the other.

The boots did get used on both shafts, also...many folk fitted them on both
shafts for protection of the splines from the elements.

If you've got them out, do yourself a favor and replace all the U-joints -
odds are they're all worn if one of them was actually worn out...

                    Alan

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 09:44:57 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Subject: Re: Prop-shafts

On Fri, 20 Mar 1998 Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com wrote:

> The boots did get used on both shafts, also...many folk fitted them on both
> shafts for protection of the splines from the elements.

How important are these boots?  I haven't got any, and in fact, didn't
know of their existance.  Can I live without them, at least until I fix
the handbrake, and have to disconnect the props anyways?  

David/mr sinclair	

------------------------------

From: "David Hope" <davidjhope@email.msn.com>
Subject: Leaking fuel tank
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 08:46:59 -0600

Saw a post recently regarding a fuel tank that leaked badly when filled to
the top.  I suffered the same embarrassing problem - embarrassing that is
when everyone at the gas station stopped to look at the $0.90/gallon gas
pouring out of the bottom of the Land Rover.

My fix which has worked for two years was to replace all the gaskets on top
of the tank and to screw them down tightly.

David Hope
64 llA

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 09:48:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Prop-shafts

The boots are essentially extensible rubber sleeves that fit over the
sliding joint, keeping it clean and minimising the amount of rust that
formed on it.

If you don't have them don't sweat it, at least till you have time to put
them on. I do recommend that you fit them, though, as they'll help keep the
propshaft wear to a minimum by excluding grit.

Also, realize that you have to disassemble the propshaft to put them on, so
it's not a trivial task (best done to a cleaned propshaft on a workbench -
check the splines and U-joints at the same time).

               ajr/Mr. C.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 06:56:14 -0800 (PST)
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: "Light Duty" Diesel Terms

RE: "Light Duty 4.3 or 5.7L engines

The term "light duty" has more to do with the intended role and use of the
engine than it's actual displacement or power output. The 4.3 V6 and the
350 diesel were intended for automotive or half-ton truck use. They are not
"industrial" type engines. Just being a diesel does not automatically
include an engine into the industrial or "heavy duty" category. The 4.3L
and 350D are not overly robust in their construction and their working life
is about the same as any petrol engine. This is essentially true of many
diesels light duty (now that we have the terms correct) applications.  BTW,
you want to differentiate between the notorious 5.7L Olds diesel and the
later and better 350 diesel by referring to the earlier unit as the 5.7 and
the later as the 35o.

Giving this some LR content, any of the GM diesels would be great in
certain LR swaps because they are lighter and more compact than many
diesels of similar power outputs. They are happier in light duty
applications, which a LR swap would certainly be. With regards to engine
weights, I have 850-900 lbs listed for a 6.2L, 1100+ for the 6.9-7.3L Ford
and 1200+ for the Cummins six. A heavyweight group for sure and IMHO, this
makes them all pretty dicey in the front of a LR or RR. The torque outputs
would also leave many LR drivetrains in pieces on the ground. 240lbs-ft
(280 for the 155hp version) for the NA 6.2L (380-400 turbo), 325 for the NA
6.9 Ford (as much as 500 turbo) and 400+ for the Cummins. That uncommon
4.3L V6 would be a good choice but I don't have specs at hand.

Just so y'all know, I also run a 6.9L Ford diesel with a turbo kit that
makes 225hp and 514lbs-ft (according to the turbo kit MFR) and the 6.2L
will be making 200hp and 400 lbs-ft when the turbo goes on next month).
Mileage is good on the 6.2L, at about 18mpg in town and 20-21 on the
highway. The Ford does about 15 empty on the hwy if I stay at 60-65 (it has
low gears and only a 3-speed auto),17mph at 55mph, but it will deliver
10-11 mpg at GCVW of 18,000 lbs on flat ground.

        Jim Allen

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 14:58:58 +0000
Subject: Re: Prop-shafts

They stop muck getting in your splines. They cost a couple of quid.

I guess fine sand could cause quite a bit of wear.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

david@infocom.com on 03/20/98 02:44:57 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Re: Prop-shafts

On Fri, 20 Mar 1998 Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com wrote:
> The boots did get used on both shafts, also...many folk fitted them on
both
> shafts for protection of the splines from the elements.
How important are these boots?  I haven't got any, and in fact, didn't
know of their existance.  Can I live without them, at least until I fix
the handbrake, and have to disconnect the props anyways?
David/mr sinclair

------------------------------

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Subject: Re: LRNA Lodge
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 06:53:04 -0700

Dear Paul,

Don't ask us!  Most of us are Series owners...These locations are strictly
confidential and released to modern LR owners on a need to know basis!!!

Anyway...The Valley is nestled downsouth-west of the Gunnison - Montrose
Valley.

YOurs'
 John

------------------------------

From: "David Hope" <davidjhope@email.msn.com>
Subject: Removing nut at back of transmission brake
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 09:13:27 -0600

I'm trying to diassemble my transmission into so that I can bolt my existing
transfer case etc. to a rebuilt gearbox.  However, I cannot get loosen the
nut at the back of the shaft that goes through the transmission brake.  I
have tried heat and an impact wrench, both with no success.  Anyone have any
more ideas before i give up and load the whole thing in the back of my
wife's company minivan to take to the transmission shop?

This is really frustrating.  I'm almost there, just to be beaten by a single
nut...

David Hope

64llA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 15:32:01 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Help needed with diesel fuel filter

>Did you refill the filter housing with fuel each time you removed it?

If its owt like mine that would be a little difficult,since the filter
is trapped between the bottom cover and the top.
I'd suggest what several people have already suggested.Leave the
outlet nut loose and crank the engine on the starter.If possible
with the stop knob pulled out(I cant remember whether that's possible
on a 111,and mine's a 11A).Put a rag underneath to stop diesel getting
everywhere.Then finish off filling the filter with the hand lever on
the pump(since some air will have found its way back in when the engine
stops turning).Tighten the union nut while still pumping.Then open
the topmost valve on the DPA pump,and repeat the hand pumping sequence,
and yet again with the lower valve.Then start the engine,if you wish
with the spill nut on no1 injector cracked open.
Up to the time of writing I've never had any problem using this method.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 10:34:28 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Subject: Re: Removing nut at back of transmission brake

On Fri, 20 Mar 1998, David Hope wrote:

> have tried heat and an impact wrench, both with no success.  Anyone have any
> more ideas before i give up and load the whole thing in the back of my
> wife's company minivan to take to the transmission shop?

Careful use of a nut splitter?  And copper based anti-seize when you put
the new nut back on.

David

------------------------------

From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Subject: Aid to bleeding diesel systems
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 07:38:13 -0800

I set up diesel engine rooms on boats all the time, from 8HP to 300Hp
diesels.  I consistently recommend that customers put in a priming pump on
the system, upstream of all the filters.  Most of the time I get them to add
in a hand bulb (the kind you use for outboards) that they can reach and pump
while bleeding the system.  If the engine(s) are really large or the owner
is wealthy, I suggest that they use a small electric pump.  Both of these
systems places pressure on the system and makes it easy to single hand bleed
from the engine room (compartment).  Yes this works on cars and trucks.  The
hand pump is good for systems up to 20GPH.  Double hose clamp anything you
add to a diesel line.
Compare:
Bleeding with hand pump = solo bleed, $10 for the bulb pump
Bleeding using the starter = need two to bleed, $250-700 (marine engines) to
replace the starter when you burn it out.
It also has the advantage of being real easy and quick - more necessary for
a vessel in a slipway than a vehicle beside the road.
If some one is interested, I will send them my diesel diagnosis sheets.
wahooadv@earthlink.net

Cheers
David
Stay at Home Father
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
Ural Motorcycle - S/V KALAKALA, Ingrid 38, ketch

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 10:47:38 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Subject: Re: Aid to bleeding diesel systems

I used to have the misfortune of havinga a diesel Volkswagen PickUp,
probably the only "modern" vehicle that diesel 109 could beat in a drag
race.  A PO had added a second fuel filter, which had a provision to
attach a vacum pump to it and suck most of the air out after you changed
filters, or drained the water off.  Very handy the time a bought a tank of
bum fuel and had to drain water off every ten miles!  

David

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 10:55:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Removing nut at back of transmission brake

Personally I've never had a lot of luck with impact wrenches and the like -
these don't always work well for me on heavily tightened things.

There are a few ways to deal with something like this.

RISK IS INVOLVED, so don't blame me if you break something.....<grin>

First off, lift the center console cover, put a Craftsman socket and
breaker bar (Free replacement if broken...) on the nut, then add a 3-foot
pipe. WIth the car in low box and the parking brake locked, 2 folks lean on
it. It should move.

DESPERATION LAST RESORT, put on the aforementioned bar and pipe, but from
below resting on the frame. With the engine running, pop the clutch in 1st
low and let Nature take its course...

Something will give - I don't guarantee it's going to be the nut, though,
so be careful.

               aj"I love mechanical mayhem..."r

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 98 11:22:41 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Prop-shafts

>How important are these boots?  I haven't got any, and in fact, didn't 
>know of their existance.  Can I live without them, at least until I fix 
>the handbrake, and have to disconnect the props anyways?  

Boot shmoot. 
on the SIII at least the front boot was standard, rear optional (Marin?). Good 
luck getting an old shaft apart to replace the boot...
IMO, they're not really necessary, its spinning and throwing things off. I 
think maybe the front prop is in a more vulnerable position. The boot on mine 
was rpelaced by the PO, now its ripped somehow. Just keep the joint greased and 
don't worry about the boot. Unless of course you really want to.
later
DaveB

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 98 11:31:16 EST
Subject: Re: Removing nut at back of transmission brake

> I cannot get loosen the nut at the back of the shaft that goes through the 
>transmission brake.   

ok. yellow knob down. 
chock wheels
big 1/2" drive socket on the nut
big hammer
whack end of socket handle repeatedly.
nut should budge
If tranny is out
a piece of lead or other soft metal between two big gears inside.
or put clutch disc on input splines and in vise
longest handle you can find. Handle of hi-lift jack good many times
oh yes you could just lock brake drum to hold it
never give up!

DaveB

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 12:38:10 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Removing nut at back of transmission brake

Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com wrote:
> Personally I've never had a lot of luck with impact wrenches and the like -
> these don't always work well for me on heavily tightened things.

>.
I use a 1/2" drive HD impact gun (Mac), delivers 650lbs of torque, and
will take off just about anything. It's about 2x as powerful as the
regular impacts the boys use in the servie trade. It'll rip off 1/2"
bolts if your not careful!
. 
> DESPERATION LAST RESORT, put on the aforementioned bar and pipe, but from
> below resting on the frame. With the engine running, pop the clutch in 1st
> low and let Nature take its course...
>.
Recipe for a 911 call! (Unless you can remote start it from 50 feet
away)

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 10:48:44 -0600
From: "\"Mr. Mike\" Passaretti" <passaretti@sol.med.ge.com>
Subject: Re: 'cold galvanizing' and POR-15??

>>>>> "Jeff" == Jeff Goldman <roverboy@gis.net> writes:

    Jeff>   I'm really curious about POR-15. A general search
    Jeff> yields positive reaction to the stuff for inhibiting
    Jeff> rust and coating chassis. Goes on thick with a
    Jeff> brush, doesn't chip, inhibits rust by sealing the
    Jeff> metal surface, and immune to fuels and
    Jeff> solvents. Expensive, though. Comes in black,
    Jeff> semi-gloss black, gray, silver, and satin
    Jeff> clear. Does anyone have any experience with this
    Jeff> stuff???  http://www.por15.com

It's super, but you MUST (must, must, must) follow prep and
application directions.  It only adheres to light/med surface
rust and prepped bare metal.  It's a little temperature
sensitive when curing, and it dries rock hard.  Sanding it is
a stone bitch.  It cures on contact with oxygen and/or
moisture, so you decant a small amount (it goes a fairly long
way) and seal the rest away (I store it using cling-wrap on
the top and inverting it).  Anything you don't use is wasted.
Most of the colours are not UV treated, so you have to topcoat
it if the area is going to see sun.  The different colours
have different uses (the silver or grey, for instance, has metal
filings in it and can be used for light filling of pitting and
such).    Summary:  It's not cheap, and it takes a little care
to use it right, but the results are worth it (IMNSHO).

							-MM

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 11:58:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Removing nut at back of transmission brake

Re: engine torque to pop bolts loose:

Recipe for a 911 call! (Unless you can remote start it from 50 feet
away)

I said it was a desperate measure - but it's one I've (unfortunately) used
more than once. The shock is a good way to knock things loose.

I will also confess to having broken a Craftsman 1/2" breaker bar this
way...

          aj"Brute force and ignorance...."r

------------------------------

From: B4UTRY <B4UTRY@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 12:16:19 EST
Subject: Re: 'cold galvanizing' and POR-15??

I have used POR-15 on chassis and other lower surfaces it is an excellent
material
for those areas. It dries to a hard gloss finish and has taken the abuse of
salty
New York  roadways well.

------------------------------

From: B4UTRY <B4UTRY@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 12:19:18 EST
Subject: Re: New GM 350 diesel FS in NJ : $700

I had one in an 82 Fleetwood which I drove for 120k mls
It preformed well except for the injector pump which needed frequent
rebuilding

------------------------------

From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Subject: NADA Engine Please
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 09:08:19 -0800

Date: Thu, 19 Mar 1998 20:21:16 -0600
From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Subject: NADA Engine Please

> Well it seems there are no end to people contacting me about LR parts.

Some one here in my area just asked if there were any used working NADA
6 cylinder engines around in the USA.  There is a guy here who has a
died one who thinks his 109 could be running if he could find one.
Any info I will forward to him.  Thanks for any help you can offer him.

I have never heard anything good about the NADA (North American Dollar
Area) version of the Rover 2.6 liter 6-cylinder engine.  I guess the
lower compression, standard version was okay, albeit a rather odd
design.  But back when I bought my Series III new in 1973 I became
aquatinted with several people who had the NADA 6 in their Land Rovers.
All of them had been having no end of problems with them.  According to
Tom Gannon, who ran the original Atlantic British (California) way back
then, the biggest problem was burning through the pistons in pretty
short order.

While the person you mention may have an interest in preserving his 109
as it was built, my own opinion is he would be better off replacing the
NADA 6 with a 2.25 petrol engine, perhaps a later 5-bearing version.
This obviously will not yield the power of the 2.6, which I understand
was not bad when it was running, but at least the engine will be easy to
get parts for and should last a long time given proper care.  If he
doesn't care about keeping the 109 authentic as far as Rover-produced
components, he also could install one of the engine conversions that are
available.  But even if he were to find a NADA 2.6 in running condition,
from everything I've been told by people with experience with that
engine, it would be running on borrowed time.

The standard, European version was supposed to be much more reliable;
perhaps someone from the UK can shed some light on its reputation.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: Re[2]: Prop-shafts
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 09:26:21 -0800

The prop shaft boot on my SII had rotted away long ago.  This seems to
be a good thing as it meant that all of that oil/grease/sludge that was
flying around and pouring off of everything in the engine bay was
lubricated the shaft splines on its way down to the gutter and later
into the Pacific ocean!  ;-0

All these Land Rovers about are a very good reason for Victoria to
finally get it's own sewage/storm drain treatment plant!

I did buy two new boots and will put them on when the drive shafts go
back in.  An easy task.  Just grab both ends of the prop shaft & pull.
You are now holding two separate halves of a prop shaft...

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88
Victoria, BC  Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 11:32:50 -0800
From: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Subject: Re: Removing nut at back of transmission brake

>Re: engine torque to pop bolts loose:
>Recipe for a 911 call! (Unless you can remote start it from 50 feet
>away)
>I said it was a desperate measure - but it's one I've (unfortunately) used
>more than once. The shock is a good way to knock things loose.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
>way...
>          aj"Brute force and ignorance...."r

Huh,
	And you guys yelled at me for seating a tire bead w/ starting fluid!?
	p"incindiary accelerants"c

Peter
'60 109SW
'64 88
'70 88 (in pieces)
'73 88 (driver)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 18:29:38 +0100
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Removing nut at back of transmission brake

Obvious question first - are you sure that the entire spilt pin has been
removed from the castle nut? If not that could be the problem.

I had a tough job removing mine once, it needed a heavy duty 3/4" socket
wrench with a #27 top, and a long piece of scaffolding bar over the
handle, still took two people to shift it.

Check for the pin, then keep pullin'

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: 	Fri, 20 Mar 1998 18:37:37 +0100
From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Subject: heater plugs

I hope you can bear with me and my beginners questions. Sorry to say I have
yet another question for this group. My Landrover, 109 diesel SIII, has got
the normal set of heater plugs, series wired with twisted wire elements.
With the car I got a new set of plugs with a "bulb" like element. This
evening I reread the Landrover FAQ and realized that if one of my seriell
plugs would be faulty that would mean noone of the other plugs will work
and the engine will be almost impossible to start when cold (like here in
Sweden...). A better type of plugs exists though, the "bulb" type made by
Dieseglow which are parallel wired and thus independent. My question
following this is: The new plugs I have, might they be the parallel wired
type? and if so how should they be wired ? I did not get any cables for
these. The box containing the plug doesn´t say very much just the letters
FPCF inside a square standing on one corner. Numbers on the box are 568335
and 03-01-162  133B. Since my car is very difficult to start I am very
interested in this matter. 

Thanks,

Peter
_____________________________________________________

Peter Thoren
Work:  Department of Genetics
       Uppsala University
       Box 7003; S-750 07 Uppsala
       Phone: +46 18 67 12 69
       Fax:   +46 18 67 27 05
       e-mail peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se

Home:  Långmyrtorp
       740 20 Vänge
       Phone/fax: +46 18 39 20 56
       e-mail: same as above
______________________________________________________

------------------------------

From: g@ix.netcom.com (Gerald)
Subject: Re: LRNA Lodge
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 18:43:21 GMT

About 25 miles NE of Durango which is in the southwest corner of the
state.

On Fri, 20 Mar 1998 06:13:55 -0800 (PST), you wrote:

>all you in the great wide west.  Just where is Vallecito Lake Valley Colorado? 

--
Gerald
g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 14:26:26 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: heater plugs

Before you go about replacing everything, test the glow plugs to be sure 
they are at fault. A failure in the glow plug circuit can occur anywhere. 
Remove the plugs one by one and use a test lamp to see that there is 
continuity on each. Also see that there is no corrosion or dirt on the 
contacts and that the ground wire is tight. Are the resistor coil 
fastenings tight? Also be sure that there is good ground between the 
engine and frame. IF after all that, there is still a problem starting 
that is not related to timing or fuel delivery issues, then perhaps the 
new plugs will help.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258 <CIrvin1258@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 15:02:32 EST
Subject: Re: heater plugs/priming diesel system

Everybody on the list sorta, kinda, got it right...

When you replace the filter, there's a bolt at the top of the filter assembly:
loosen this bolt, and hit the hand pump, until fuel starts coming out. Then
tighten this bolt, and move onto the injector pump. (unles you have dual
filters, in which case you'd go onto the next filter) Loosen the outermost
vent screw on the injector pump, and hit the hand pump, to make sure that
there's no air trapped in it. Next, (after tightening the outer screw) loosen
the innermost vent screw, and repeat the procedure once more. After this, the
truck should start right up - if not, there's still air trapped in the system,
and you've gotta do it all over again.

As for the plugs: Originally they were wired series (with the bulb type
plugs), and this was changed to paralell with the newer "probe type" plugs. My
truck currently has the older type, though they are wired paralell, the truck
is pretty tough to start when cold (perhaps they're dead plugs?), and so I
recently bought the newer type to replace them. It is true, that if one of the
older type plugs goes south, the rest are sure to follow very quickly. Nice
thing about the older type - if one is dead, the element at the end is usually
broken - just like a light bulb!

Charles

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 98 13:02:18 EST
Subject: Re[4]: Prop-shafts

>I did buy two new boots and will put them on when the drive shafts go 
>back in.  An easy task.  Just grab both ends of the prop shaft & pull. 
>You are now holding two separate halves of a prop shaft...

Paul. 
I think you are supposed to unscrew something. 
Anybody?

Dave

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 16:08:18 -0500
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Subject: Land Rover lodge

Called on this yesterday.  The "registration fee" is $300 for singles, $500
for a couple and no kids under 18 are allowed.  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 16:08:21 -0500
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Subject: 6 cyl engines

<car4doc@concentric.net> wrote:

> Well it seems there are no end to people contacting me about LR parts. 
>Some one here in my area just asked if there were any used working NADA
>6 cylinder engines around in the USA.

I don't know about the 2.6's, but Robert Davis has several of the 3.0 Rover
engines that are much superior.  His number is 757-421-3504.  Only call him
if you want to *buy* not ask questions.  The boy gets inundated with tech
questions on these things, and he just doesn't have the time to chat.  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 16:08:20 -0500
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Subject: Girling clamps

Peter wrote:

>Use some steel round stock  (3/8-1/2" dia) then use your "grips". 

to wit, Nate added:

>If any of you know a surgical nurse, there is a special clamp called a bowel
>clamp.

Even better.  Go to the store and buy two, 2-4" lengths of 3/8" Schedule 40
pipe.  Slip these over the end of needle-nosed Vise-Grips and you have the
best non-damaging hose clamp there is.  BTW...you don't have to clamp very
hard to seal off the line....  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

From: Solihull <Solihull@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 16:24:33 EST
Subject: Re:  LRNA Lodge

>>My father being a new Land Rover purchaser has sent in his app. and has
invited
>>yours truly to go with him.
Paul, it'd be *way* cool to show up in the series three!!
Cheers!!
John Dillingham
near Canton, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
Vintage Rover Service, since 1994, where we say:
Land Rovers for Agriculture!
Land Rovers for Industry!
Land Rovers for Recreation!
Land Rovers forever!! D.V.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 15:34:34 -0800
From: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Subject: Re: Girling clamps

At 04:08 PM 3/20/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Peter wrote:
>>Use some steel round stock  (3/8-1/2" dia) then use your "grips". 
>to wit, Nate added:
>>If any of you know a surgical nurse, there is a special clamp called a bowel
>>clamp.
>Even better.  Go to the store and buy two, 2-4" lengths of 3/8" Schedule 40

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
>best non-damaging hose clamp there is.  BTW...you don't have to clamp very
>hard to seal off the line....  Cheers
 --- snip (OUCH)-----
A (burning?) question.... what renders bowl clamps no longer servicable? do
they bend? wear out?  Cheers    Peter 
	

Peter
'60 109SW
'64 88
'70 88 (in pieces)
'73 88 (driver)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 13:38:12 +0100
From: Thomas Spoto <tspoto@az.com>
Subject: Re: Removing nut at back of transmission brake

May I make a suggestion. Borrow or rent a Torque Multiplier. On one side of
the Torque Multiplier you put your socket on the other your ratchet. I it is
braced against the floor by a length of pipe. When you see one it makes
sense. The one I normally use has a multiplication factor of 7-1. They are
available with greater multiplication factors. Check for the cotterpin first
as has been suggested.

Tom Spoto

Adrian Redmond wrote:

> Obvious question first - are you sure that the entire spilt pin has been
> removed from the castle nut? If not that could be the problem.
> I had a tough job removing mine once, it needed a heavy duty 3/4" socket
> wrench with a #27 top, and a long piece of scaffolding bar over the
> handle, still took two people to shift it.
> Check for the pin, then keep pullin'

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 25 lines)]
> Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
> ---------------------------------------------------

 

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 98 16:53:01 EST
Subject: Re: 6 cyl engines

>I don't know about the 2.6's, but Robert Davis has several of the 3.0 Rover 
>engines that are much superior.  His number is 757-421-3504.  Only call him 
>if you want to *buy* not ask questions.  The boy gets inundated with tech 
>questions on these things, and he just doesn't have the time to chat.  

Ummmm...that kind of customer service aint gonna earn you a whole lotta 
repeat business. He doesn't have the time or patience to talk to a customer 
who is going to spring for a new engine? How do you know if you want to buy 
unless you ask questions. Tough shit for him if you don't want to buy.
Maybe Rob needs to re-examine whether the LR business is for him if it takes 
too much of his time. Business is not sitting around idly waiting for someone 
to call up and send you a check. Its making an effort to reach out to a 
market.

DaveB

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@primail.pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: re: LRNAhhh Lodge
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 98 17:13:28 EST

Sandy Grice informs...

***
Called on this yesterday.  The "registration fee" is $300 for singles, $500
for a couple and no kids under 18 are allowed.  Cheers
***

heck, I got my last SIIa for about that...

Guess it'd be worth it IF they had a C.S.P.O.S. feely meely box!

r"sure feels like molybdenum disulfide"d/nige

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: Re[4]: Prop-shafts - pull apart?
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 14:35:35 -0800

Mine definitely just pull apart.  Mind you it's a 1961 Series II.
Perhaps they changed over the years?

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88
Victoria, BC  Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 14:48:40 -0800
From: Todd_Wilson@ccmail.columbia.com (Todd Wilson)
Subject: Metal info NO LR content

     
     One link is for spring steel though.
     
     http://laplaza.org/~ebear/heattreat0.html
     
     tew

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 18:17:33
From: David Kurzman <kurzman@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: 6 cyl engines

Sandy Grice Said
    "I don't know about the 2.6's, but Robert Davis has several of the 3.0
Rover engines that are much superior.  His number is 757-421-3504. Only
call him if you want to *buy* not ask questions.  The 
boy gets inundated with tech questions on these things, and he just 
doesn't have the time to chat."

Dave B said...
  "Ummmm...that kind of customer service aint gonna earn you a whole lotta 
repeat business. He doesn't have the time or patience to talk to a customer 
who is going to spring for a new engine? How do you know if you want to buy 
unless you ask questions. Tough shit for him if you don't want to buy.
Maybe Rob needs to re-examine whether the LR business is for him if it takes 
too much of his time. Business is not sitting around idly waiting for someone 
to call up and send you a check. Its making an effort to reach out to a 
market."

I say:
1. Just to be clear...This is the Va. Rob Davis not the Il. Rob Davis.
2. Rob is not a full time Land Rover dealer or repair shop. He has a full
   time job. He messes with L-R's as a sideline because he is a Britcar
   fan and motorhead from way back. He is an excellent L-R mechanic. 
   AND....honest.
3. I'm sure Sandy was just being carefull considering that he was posting
   Robert's ph. # on an international mailing list. Sandy posted the ph.
   # so that people who may want to buy a 3.0 can call Robert and discuss
   it. If you want to shoot the breeze about your L-R you can call At.
   Brit. or Rovers North. They are full time Rover parts dealerships
   and do vey well with customer service.
4. Roberts a good friend and _I_ hesitate to call him with Rover questions 
   because he is so busy. I spend alot of $ with R.N., At. Brit., and DAP.
   so I don't feel I'm out of line by asking any of those guys for tech 
   help.
5. People are sure quick to make judgements on this list.
	Best, Pete-'66 SWB Ragtop

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 19:30:57 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Prop-shafts

Paul Quin wrote:

> I did buy two new boots and will put them on when the drive shafts go
> back in.  An easy task.  Just grab both ends of the prop shaft & pull.
> You are now holding two separate halves of a prop shaft...
>.
Don't forget to remove the dust cap before you go rippin the shaft
apart, and make a note how they came apart as well. No one has mentioned
it yet, but there are line up marks on the shafts, helps to eliminate
vibration upon reassembly.

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 18:39:06 EST
Subject: Re: Re[4]: Prop-shafts

In a message dated 98-03-20 15:45:16 EST, you write:

<< >I did buy two new boots and will put them on when the drive shafts go 
 >back in.  An easy task.  Just grab both ends of the prop shaft & pull. 
 >You are now holding two separate halves of a prop shaft...
 Paul. 
 I think you are supposed to unscrew something. 
 Anybody? >>

There is a cap on the long part of the prop shaft that must be unscrewed to
pull out the splined end.  Take care to mark both ends of the shaft across the
slip joint so that you can get the thing back together in correct phase (cuts
down on vibration).

Nate

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 19:48:47 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Prop Shafts

DaveB wrote:

Boot shmoot. 
on the SIII at least the front boot was standard, rear optional
(Marin?). Good 
luck getting an old shaft apart to replace the boot...
IMO, they're not really necessary, its spinning and throwing things off.
I 
think maybe the front prop is in a more vulnerable position. The boot on
mine 
was rpelaced by the PO, now its ripped somehow. Just keep the joint
greased and 
don't worry about the boot. Unless of course you really want to.
>.
I'd put the boots in place if possible. The spinning action will throw
off the mud etc, but when your stuck in a mud hole with mud up your ying
yang,..... well, you get the picture. When the splines do wear and
you've got an awful vibration down there, the price of a boot becomes
moot. IMHO

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: "MARY THOMSON" <denthomson@sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: Removing nut at back of transmission brake
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 20:50:49 -0500

Split the nut if all fails or by a descent impact gun. If you have heated
the nut and it still won't move I would split the nut because you could
have picked up the thread and if you continue you may end up buying a new
shaft.   "ROO" 

> From: David Hope <davidjhope@email.msn.com>
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: Removing nut at back of transmission brake
> Date: Friday, March 20, 1998 10:13 AM
> I'm trying to diassemble my transmission into so that I can bolt my

existing
> transfer case etc. to a rebuilt gearbox.  However, I cannot get loosen
the
> nut at the back of the shaft that goes through the transmission brake.  I
> have tried heat and an impact wrench, both with no success.  Anyone have
any
> more ideas before i give up and load the whole thing in the back of my
> wife's company minivan to take to the transmission shop?
> This is really frustrating.  I'm almost there, just to be beaten by a
> Date: Friday, March 20, 1998 10:13 AM
single
> nut...
> David Hope
> 64llA
> Date: Friday, March 20, 1998 10:13 AM
> I'm trying to diassemble my transmission into so that I can bolt my

------------------------------

From: tadpole@zianet.com
Subject: oil pressure warning light woes
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 19:16:40 -0700

Well here goes nuthin... I recently drove my '65 IIA 88 from Montana to my
new job in southern New Mexico.  Now she drips oil a bit as I'm sure you can
understand, but it's nothing excessive.  Along the way the oil pressure at
idle (7-900 rpms depending on how bad the linkage sticks) dropped from
around 35 lbs to 20-25 lbs.  This was gradual, mind you, not a sudden
occurance.  Before I left the oil pressure warning light flickered at around
32 lbs (with the idle below 750 rpm), now the light comes on strong at 40
lbs.  what is up?  I couldn't find squat on the workings of the warning
light, oil pressure sender, or gauge in the factory manual, just locations.
Should I be worried by this or is the warning light system unreliable?  Oh,
by the way, the oil pressure guage isn't jumpered, as I so handily found out
at around midnight during my fateful drive... outside of driggs, Idaho with
flickering lights, a stalling engine, a snowstorm, and a working oil
pressure gauge (luckily I didn't freeze to death, but it took me a while to
hunt down a voltage regulator).  Any tips, tidbits, or fixes would be great.
especially those fixes...

Todd Ondick
'65 IIA SWB
tadpole@zianet.com

Oh. I almost forgot, If there are
any list members who call southern NM
home, drop me a line.  I'm living in
beautiful Alamogordo!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 21:43:31 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: New GM 350 diesel FS in NJ : $700

Alan_Richer wrote:

> The Olds 350 - isn't that the one GM built out of a gas engine block
> and
> ended up replacing all of them?

(Disclaimers: My opinions on this list are personal, and not those of my
employer. Both my wife and I are engineers with GM. My wife has worked
on 6.2/6.5 Diesel applications in the past.)

I've heard claims that by the end of production many of the problems
with the Olds 350 Diesel were solved and the later engines lasted well.
Of course there wasn't any chance of fixing the engine's reputation by
that time. Also, there was a 4.3 V6 Diesel which some claimed was a good
engine since it's development benefited from the 350 experience. It
might make a nice engine for LR applications from a packaging
perspective, though the only application I can remember was transverse
front wheel drive in the A-car.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

From: "Mark Freeman" <mfreeman@iland.net>
Subject: NADA? Just Asking.
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 20:41:00 -0600

I know that it's commonly accepted that NADA is the acronym for: North
American Dollar Area. I have a question for the NADA sages on this list: 
Is the acronym correct?

My first Land Rover was a 1967 NADA 109.  It is long gone now as well as
the owners manual and other documents that came with it. I do seem to
remember a one or two page insert in the owners manual that listed the NADA
- specific differences.  It began, in my memory at least, by defining NADA
as North American Distribution Area.  Now that was about 20 years and some
dead brain cells ago.  Does anyone else remember this?

By the way, what is the exchange rate for North American Dollars to the
peso, say?

Mark Freeman
Series III Land Rovers in various states of (dis)repair
1997 Disco

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 21:46:18 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Land Rover Lodge

> Somehow I dont think that those of use who own the "orphins" are
> invited to
> that party.....
> I think we would prefer Possum Lodge, anyways. Cheers, Andy Blackley

A SII direct from the canadian bush would be more appropriate for Possum
Lodge than the old van usually featured.

------------------------------

From: tadpole@zianet.com
Subject: Re: replacing hub seal
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 19:45:33 -0700

>OK. This is to get to the hub seal right? As I said before, I am getting oil
>contamination in my  front right brke shoes....and that would come
>from the hub seal. 

Marcus-
not exactly... simply replace the hub seal and distance piece on the stub
staft and viola! no slippery brakes.  
I just did this two weeks ago, it's really easy. besides those bearings
probably need repacked anyhow.  

Todd Ondick
'65 88IA SWB
tadpole@zianet.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 22:09:27 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Handbrake Question

DERICK FAY wrote:

> Hi.  I'm a new owner of a Series III 109" ......
> internally.  I'm having a hell of a time finding a replacement.  Can
> I use a Series I or II handbrake with this vehicle?

The design of the handbrake actuator and adjuster changed during the IIA
run. The handbrakes are interchangeable, and the drums are the same. The
actuating lever and rod may need some adjustment though, or replace the
actuating rod with an early one.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 22:17:15 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: "Light Duty" Diesel Terms

I've read a number of times that since the LR 2.25 Diesel doesn't last
as long as the petrol version. Not surprising since the petrol 2.25 is a
derivative of the Diesel.

Jim Allen wrote:

> The term "light duty" has more to do with the intended role and use of
> the
> engine than it's actual displacement or power output. ..... Just being
> a diesel does not automatically include an engine into the industrial
> or "heavy duty" category.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 22:22:15 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: NADA? Just Asking.

Mark Freeman wrote:

> I know that it's commonly accepted that NADA is the acronym for: North
> American Dollar Area. I have a question for the NADA sages on this
> list:
> Is the acronym correct?

America Dollar Area is used in the SII/SIIA parts manuals (no "North").

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 22:25:42 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: 6 cyl engines

A. P. "Sandy" Grice wrote:

> I don't know about the 2.6's, but Robert Davis has several of the 3.0
> Rover
> engines that are much superior.  His number is 757-421-3504.  Only
> call him
> if you want to *buy* not ask questions.  The boy gets inundated with
> tech
> questions on these things, and he just doesn't have the time to chat.
> Cheers

I purchased some engine parts from Rob a couple of years ago, and he was
very pleasant and shipped promptly.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 00:57:44 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Prop-Shafts

Nate wrote:

There is a cap on the long part of the prop shaft that must be unscrewed
to
pull out the splined end.  Take care to mark both ends of the shaft
across the
slip joint so that you can get the thing back together in correct phase
(cuts
down on vibration).
>.
Also, behind the screw cap, there is a fibrous type of washer, to sort
of seal in the grease that gets shot in there from time to time ;-)

Con Seitl 
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 01:10:56 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: To Pack or Not to Pack...was hub seals

Todd Ondick wrote:

I just did this two weeks ago, it's really easy. besides those bearings
probably need repacked anyhow.  
>.
Repack the bearing? With grease? I let the 80-90 do that job, done that
for years. Haven't had any problems either. Wonder how many of us
do/don't pack them!
>.
Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 18:41:16 -1200
From: Michael Clark <m.clark@clear.net.nz>
Subject: Series one brake problems

Is it possible to get a brake booster for the series 1 SWB?
Or if anyone can please help me with the following problem.
The front wheels lock up but the right rear just engages and the left
rear dosent engage at all.
I have replaced the rear brake shoes and checked the cylinders for
leaks. Also the master cylinder has been replaced .

Any help appreciated.

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 05:02:40 EST
Subject: Re: NADA? Just Asking.

In a message dated 3/20/98 10:26:13 PM, you wrote:

>Mark Freeman wrote:
>> I know that it's commonly accepted that NADA is the acronym for: North
>> American Dollar Area. I have a question for the NADA sages on this
>> list:
>> Is the acronym correct?
>America Dollar Area is used in the SII/SIIA parts manuals (no "North").

Yeah, while we're at it, where is the South American Dollar Area (Miami?)
Doesn't the use of "North" imply the existence of a "South" 

  '-)   <--Blinded by burning axle oil.

pat
93  110

------------------------------

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