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From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 12:03:46 +0000
Subject: Re: Air filter clogged?

As a geologist, this all makes sense!

They also found that the dust thrown high into the atmosphere, congregated
on water droplets.
These water droplets grew - a bit like hail stones, until they were too
big.  I can't remember the exact distance, but it was something like a few
hundred miles downwind was hit by "lapilli"  mud balls!   :-)
It also shows as a peak in graphs of dust fallout vs. distance from Mt. St.
Helens.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR - IRA, atom bomb, and andesitic volcano
proof! :-)  )

Marin.Faure@pss.boeing.com on 03/06/98 05:23:28 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Re: Air filter clogged?

Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 10:39:46 -0800 (PST)
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: Air filter clogged?

increase by changing filters to a paper or oiled cotton gauze. I may
have
the chance to prove it on a dyno in a year or so. With all the test data
I
scrounged up, I still feel confident that either of these two
alternatives
offer superior filtering to the oil bath. No, I do not want to start the
debate about  K&Ns again, but it reminds me that I am awaiting soem test
data for a test that was done recently that may clear it up a little
better.
When Mt. St. Helens blew up on May 18, 1980 (or '81, I can't remember
which), fine volcanic dust settled all over eastern Washington, at times
up to several feet thick.  It was absolute hell on vehicles as the
silicon-based dust clogged air filters and scoured out the insides of
engines as it was inhaled.  I remember reading that the emergency
services in eastern Washington (fire, police, ambulance) had to come up
with a way of protecting their engines as they had to respond to calls
no matter how bad or deep the dust was.  The solution?  They temporarily
fitted their vehicles with- you guessed it- centrifugal flow oil bath
air filters.  I have no idea who made them or if the services made them
up themselves, but they proved to be the only type of filter that
effectively protected the engines from the volcanic dust without
clogging up or degrading performance (much).  I drove my Series III to
eastern Washington a few months after the volcano blew, and was amazed
at the quality of the dust.  After living in Hawaii for 20-odd years, I
was expecting a coarse, almost sand-like material, as that's what the
Hawaiian volcanoes spew out.  But the dust from Mt. St. Helens had the
consistency of talcum powder.  The slightest breeze or the air currents
from a passing vehicle blew up immense clouds of the stuff.  It would
clog a paper or fabric filter almost immediately.  The only effective
filtering method found was one in which the dust-laden air was blown
down onto a surface of oil which would capture most of the dust.  But
even with the oil-bath filters, they had to be cleaned out every couple
of days depending on how badly the dust was blowing around.
__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 06:09:42 -0600
From: mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marcus Tooze)
Subject: Re: weight of a 2.25 liter petrol engine?

> Hi All,
>  Sorry I think 450 is low weight for a LR 2.25 complete engine & closer
> to the weight of a complete MGB engine.

Rob

Thats a heavy 'b motor you have there. The TR6 motor fully dressed weighs
450. I would say the landy motor is about 450 too as it's a lot 'thicker'
than the '6. I could deadlift my friends MBG engine...and Midget too,
but not my 6 motor.

Marcus

P.S. Before I get loads of mail, I am refering to the TR6 motor,
not the rover.

------------------------------

Date: 	Mon, 09 Mar 1998 13:35:33 +0100
From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Subject: Landrover steering

I was very impressed by the number of replies on my safety question. If
this is typical for this mailinglist I really will enjoy following it. From
the postings I conclude that Landrovers are safe enough for me to buy one.  

Now I have another question, originating from the fact that I have never
tried to drive a Landrover. I am about to go 450 km to see/buy one next
week and I thought this question would be good to answer in beforehand. How
strong do you need to be to be able to handle the steering in a 109 series
3? My girlfriend is 162 cm tall (short...) and weighs approximately 50 kg.
Will she have a problem, with steering and maybe also with reaching the
pedals? On the other hand I am 189 cm and weighs approximately 100 kg. Will
I have a problem fitting behind the steering wheel?

Stupid questions, maybe, but highly relevant to us.

/Peter 
--------------------------------------
Peter Thoren 
Långmyrtorp
740 20 Vänge
018-39 20 56
peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se
--------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 07:43:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Landrover steering

Are you looking at a later model? Power steering might be a good idea if
you can get it, otherwise I wouldn't be too concerned. I've seen smaller
folk driver Rovers - they actually seem to be a bit more comfortable than
most.

Land-Rovers without power steering are sometimes a handful to handle in
tight spaces, but as long as the tyres are rolling you should have little
trouble handling it.

I'm about your size myself if perhaps 5 kilos or so thinner, and I have no
problems in my 109. An 88's a bit tighter, but not so you'd notice.

                    Alan

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 06:45:02 -0500
Subject: Re: An LR for my daughter?

Gerald,

I am at present doing the exact same thing for my 12-year-old...

Considering my schedule, I figure I need the extra time.

I can categorically stste that you are doing the right thing in attempting
this. Amanda (who you've met) is enthused on the project, helping me as I
can get to working on it, and learning the vehicle and general maintenance
procedures at the same time.

Go for it - you'll fight, but she'll get a solid car, and you'll both learn
more about mechanics.

                    ajr

P.S.: On welding:

Catch me in a good mood and pay for the wire and gas and this can get
done.....8*)

                         Alan

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 08:20:20 -0500
From: William S Kowalski <70252.1204@compuserve.com>
Subject: Reply: LR specialist in Chicago area?

The person you may be looking for in Chicago may be David Cooper,
Coopertechnics (?), 1385 N. Branch Street, Chicago, Illinois 60622. I think
 his telephone number is (312) 440-0711. Although he has never done any
work for me personally, I have seen some nice restorations he has
completeted. His business is full time and specializes in other vehicles
plus Land Rovers.  Let me know if I can be of further assistance.

The normal disclaimers apply------.

Bill Kowalski
Hinsdale, Illinois USA

'67 LR 109" SW IIA
'63 Austin Healey BJ-7
'53 RR Bentley "R"

PS. Check out our web site  www.qth.com/bcu  for the biggest British car
show in the US.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 09:22:16 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Australian Fuel Pump

R. Wade Hughes wrote:

> Why have I got this kind of unorthodox arrangement in my rig?
> I'm afraid there's something I'm not aware of here. Has anybody an
> explanation for mounting the pump upside down? Do I need this
> recirculating hose back to the tank?

Close the bonnet and don't look there again. Can only fix what's broke 
;-)

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: glenn.rees@PAREURO.COM
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 13:38:29 +0000
Subject: Where are you?

     Could anyone tell me Jimmy Patrick's e-mail? or get him to 
     contact me please.
     
     Contact Glenn at <Glenn.Rees@Pareuro.com> direct as I am not subscribed to 
     the main digest, UK-LRO only.
     
     Cheers
     Glenn 

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 14:27:25 +0000
Subject: Re: FFR-wiring

I could find some space on my WWW site.
You'll need to scan them finely.  Also store them efficiently - eg.
monochrome TIFF or GIF format.

Richard  (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

marijn@multiweb.net on 03/08/98 12:48:44 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Re: FFR-wiring

Thank You Richard Marsden, I've recieved the wiring schemes yesterday,
I'm not feeling too well right now, will get back on the subject of
putting up some sort of database.
Scanning stuff is not a problem, however I'll need to build a homepage
first, unless someone else has got enough space on a already know LR-sight
that will be easy to find for all the LR-fans.
Any suggestions: to the Digest, Bill, or rather not?
Marijn.
109'FFR "Winston"

------------------------------

From: g@ix.netcom.com (Gerald)
Subject: Re: An LR for my daughter?
Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 14:35:03 GMT

What did you buy for Amanda? What shape was it in? How much is she
paying?

Thanks for the offer on welding.

On Mon, 9 Mar 1998 06:45:02 -0500, you wrote:

>I am at present doing the exact same thing for my 12-year-old...
>Considering my schedule, I figure I need the extra time.

--
Gerald
g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 98 14:10:34 GMT
From: Tim Thorpe <tim@ocelot.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: 7:1 vs 8:1

Several on the list offered me help on this question last
year (thanks, BTW). I later cc'd the combustion chamber
alone of my 8:1 head and got a value of 76cc.

Jim Allen said:

|1) Combustion chamber volume. I have lost the exact figures of 7:1 to 8:1
|that I tested personally some years ago. I used a formula to calculate the
|theoretical chamber volume in ccs but it will vary when you actually cc the
|chamber. These figures include ring land and head gasket volumes
|        7:1= 95.26cc
|        8:1= 81.65cc

On a slightly related issue, I remember some discussion of
valves sticking after machine shops had done valve jobs. I
measured the stem diameters of my old, sloppy, worn valves and
found them oversize! For example, 8.68mm for an exhaust valve
where Haynes says 8.67 - 0.013. This suggests that guides
must be reamed to a clearance, not to an absolute bore.

I'm waiting for an expandable reamer to arrive in the post,
and have an MOT due next week. Would be nail-biting stuff,
except that I also have a hand in bandage and stitches to
keep the nails nice and safe.

Tim.

Tim Thorpe	                        Tel: +44 1223 240366 
tim@ocelot.demon.co.uk                  Fax: +44 1223 414402

------------------------------

From: "Alain-Jean PARES" <InfoDyne@wanadoo.fr>
Subject: Re: Landrover steering
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 15:44:23 +0100

>My girlfriend is 162 cm tall (short...) and weighs approximately 50 kg.
>Will she have a problem, with steering and maybe also with reaching the
>pedals?

I'm 1.65 and 67 Kg and I don't have strong arms. There is no problem with
the steering nor the pedals, just a little bit hard when trying to park in
Paris in small places as you have to move the weels a lot.

88 D Series III
Alain-Jean PARES
Fontainebleau, FRANCE.

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 09:57:15 -0500
Subject: Re: An LR for my daughter?

Gerald,

What I ended up getting for Amanda was a 67 IIa 88 - basically the
short-bed version of Mr. Churchill. I lucked out and found it on a farm for
$500.....8*)

It is simultaneously in horrid, marginal and excellent condition. With only
80K original miles or so, mechanically it's fine, but the body had been hit
in the driver's side and the chassis is bent. Also, after 15 years of
sitting in a farmer's field there isn't a usable rubber bit on it.

The excellent comes from the fact that it had not turned a wheel since 1982
or so, and as such had not been bodged to keep it on the road. Essentially,
it's as-delivered in 67minus the wear and tear from being asleep for 15
years.

What this means is that it's come completely apart, down to a rolling
chassis. I'm going to straighten it, repair the bad chassis sections
(already pretty-well done), then start building it up from there. I got a
new rear tub to replace the Bondoed original (for $75 it wasn't worth
fixing), and it's getting new doors and tops as needed (and boy, does it!).

Also the drive train's going to get overhauled and have all its seals
replaced - bearing replacement as needed, except for the engine that's
coming out of my 109 (Daddy's building himself a balanced powerplant with a
high-compression modification and a 2BBL Weber...8*)  ).

To tell you its condition, when I fired up the powerplant that was in
Trevor (as we named him), I got 75 PSI oil pressure at idle cold! The rings
are tired, but the bearings were perfect. Nice motor with not a lot of wear
- it's going to get refreshed, repainted and be a shelf spare for the 2
Rovers.

As far as what's coming out of her bankbook at present - honestly nothing.
She's paying in sweat equity right now, and Dad's looking on this as a
learning and responsibility trainer. I figure that if she picks up even 10%
of what we're doing she'll be able to keep the old boy on the road in fine
shape and deal with breakdowns as necessary.

The lack of capital investment on her part is mostly due to her not having
capital to begin with.....at least at present. Once the car goes on-line
under her guidance then the financials will revert to her.

Honestly, I'm doing this as much for my amusement as I am for her to have a
car. I needed another project - Mr. C is at the point where routine
maintenance is all he needs to be kept happy.

As far as what I'd suggest buying - there was a damned nice Series II for
sale for $5500 on the list recently. Refresh the hydraulics and clean it up
and that would be a great driver with little work.

If you want to do a full teardown and rebuild the cars are available - if
you want my help to eyeball one let me know. I'm just out of hospital and
more than a bit tender, but we can do this. Buying a car with good running
gear and sticking a chassis underneath it is not impossible - I've done it
in as little as 16 days working evenings and weekends.

On the welding - love to help. I do this stuff for fun, and to keep my hand
in. One of my stated goals in life is to be a sensei to the extant New
England Series Rover population - I have a real fondness for the marque. RR
yuppies need not apply...<grin>

                         Alan

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 09:39:29 -0600
From: "C R. Wolfe M.D." <cwolfe@d.umn.edu>
Subject: Towing a horse trailer

I am a field trial dog trainer and own sereal 109s and a GMC extended
cab short bed with a full lenght 8 hole dog box on the back.  I am
trying to  plan for the future and will be getting some horses and a
trailer soon.  Have any of you done any stock or horse trailer towing
with your landies?  I have a 109 PU that currently has a small dog box
on it that I use for local training.  When I go on the big road trips to
the prairies or trials I take the GMC.

I am currently rebuilding a 109 SW and am curious how it will do with
towing.  I also have the 109 PU.I am trying to fiqure out what kind of
horse trailer to purchase.  I would like a slant load capable of hauling
3 - 4 horses.  my options include:

1) Gooseneck- take off the dog box on the GMC and add third wheel.  Only
use the 350 containing GMC when trailering.  Can I put a third wheel on
the 109 PU??

2) ball hitch type trailer.  Tow with any of the fore mentioned
vehicles.

Have any of you done any horse trailer pulling with your 109s?  I have
towed a few vehicles x country with my 109 slowly.  My current rebuild
project will have a turner engine in it.

Thanks
Cwolfe

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 11:07:04 EST
Subject: Re: Towing a horse trailer

You are mistaking engine size with towing ability.  When you go from a 1/2 ton
to a 3/4 ton truck (GMC), the brakes, chassis and suspension are all upgraded.
If  you plan on pulling a 3-4 horse trailer, either bumper pull or gooseneck
(gooseneck will be a safer, smoother trailer).  I would not dream of using a
series land rover. Why?

1.  Brakes aren't good enough.  One bad run in the mountains and you could be
in serious trouble.

2.  A 109 is too light (!) to pull 3-4 horses.  It would get pushed all over
the road.

3.  Most US made trailers are way wider than the series land rover and as such
would lead to serious trouble at highway speed.

4.  While I enjoy pulling the 2 horse trailer locally with a land rover, I
would never dream of putting it out on the freeway system if I  had other
options.

If you want to pull 3-4 horses, stick with American steel 3/4 ton trucks or
larger.  Just my opinion

Nate
Chevy 1 ton dually with 5 horse gooseneck
88 LR Blue brick (sometimes) with lil' red 2 horse bumper pull

------------------------------

From: Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca
Subject: FWD Torque split
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 11:09:00 -0500

I recall that the Ferguson FWD system as fiited to the BRM F1 car and to
the Jensen FF had a torque bias towards the front for stability. Don't
know how this was achieved but I believe part of the Ferguson patent was
related to this torque split. Maybe on of our afficionados can fill in
the details

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 08:25:53 +0000
From: Cas Stimson <cstimson@gte.net>
Subject: Re: Help With Jerriecans

Does anyone have information on the proper storage of 5 gallon gas
cans?  I recently purchased new 20 liter Jerricans. After using them on
a trip, my wife noticed I just emptied the repaining gas into the LR's
tank, left the tops off the jerricans and stored them in the guarge. 
She was surprised the cans did not come with directions and thinks I
should wash them out with soap and water and store them outside.  Any
concensus on this?

PS - I told my wife that when they gave us our marriage certificate
there weren't directions with it either and we have done very well
inspite of that.  She smiled and said while looking at my new bright red
jerricans "don't be too sure about that."

Thanks

Cas Stimson
110, 90 and RR

------------------------------

From: trowe@cdr.wisc.edu
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 11:00:31 -0600
Subject: Re: Help With Jerriecans

>Does anyone have information on the proper storage of 5 gallon gas
>cans?
snip

Keep in mind that pertrol fumes are heavier than air.
If you're concerned about residual fumes, tip them upside down for awhile
outside withthecap off.
FWIW, I keep the caps on and store them outside. I never wash them out.
Petrol cans make very nice bombs, a half full 1 gal can equals several
sticks of dynamite. So I don't suggest keeping them in the house.

------------------------------

From: caloccia@senie.com
Date: 9 Mar 1998 17:06:27 -0000
Subject: ANARC 50th Schedule (proposed) is now available at

www.rover-clubs.org/schedule.html

-Bill

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 18:13:44 +0100
From: Bernd Jonas <Bernd.Jonas@munich.netsurf.de>
Subject: Re: 50th jubilee trip

Hi There,
in addition to this tip for celebrating 50th birthday of LR I send you 
this:
At the IOR (from 29.4.98 - 3.5.98), a international offroad fair in
Munich´s new fair(?), is at friday 1.5.98 a big Land-Rover-Meeting with
many specials.
Organisator of the meeting is the Rover Club Deutschland and Rover Ltd..
If you plan to get there just call Mr. Otter (Rover Club Deutschland)
and tell him that you will get there, so you would have no problem to
drive in the meeting area.
His telefon number is:

0049 (0) 2653 8752

Joost Kramer schrieb:
> Hi,
> I am wondering if there is something organised, to join the festivals in
> England for the 50th birthday of the LR's.
> Untill now I was searching for people in Holland, to drive in a "convoi"
> to England for the festival of the ARC (last 2 weeks of May).
> Perhaps it is a good idea to do this in whole europe...
> My basic question is: Are there people on this list, who also want to
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
> Joost Kramer
> LR88 SIII 1980

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 12:14:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Help With Jerriecans

Re: Petrol cans:

Agreed on all counts. With the number of gasoline-powered gadgets I have
around, I typically keep 2 full cans, plus a 2-gallon can of gas/oil mix.

This stuff isn't a nightmare if it's kept in a well-ventilated area. I
typically store mine in the garden shed (a good 100 feet from the house) ,
as it's about as well-ventilated as you can get and still have a roof -
hello, mice! 8*)

Do be careful. I will say, though, that if you want to store them empty I
think I'd drop in a few ounces of cheap oil (even old 90wt would do) and
run it around the inside to prevent rust. Rust is why I buy plastic
ones....

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 12:32:13 -0500
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Subject: Tanks alot, redux

C. Marin Faure wrote:

> So if you're only getting three years out of a tank, you're either buying
>very poorly made tanks or you're driving on a beach a lot.  Or I
>misinterpreted your post...

Does the New York State Thruway count?  I'e seen it at 3 degrees F and the
roads were splashing wet with salt melt...like driving though battery acid.
The leak developed where the bottom skid plate/extra skin joins the tank
itself, even with many coats of paint and undercoat.  (The current
weld/patch is protected by Waxoyl, heavily applied.)  As to the first part
of your post...well, it was "genuine". 'nuff said.  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 12:32:12 -0500
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Subject: Fueling around

Todd_Wilson@ccmail.columbia.com  wrote:
>Subject: More fuel tank questions (diesel)
     
>     The PO fitted a spare tank under the passenger seat in my 109 (right 
>     seat, LHD) 

>     Is there any means to clean the tank other than removing it? 
>     So my plan is to:
>     Empty dregs from tank
>     pour something that I can swab around to collect grunge

Probably the best solvent you could use is methyl ethyl ketone, nasty
stuff, really, but it will disolve most fuel gunge rather handily.  With
good top access from the military-style filler neck, I wouldn't be too
concrerned about using water and detergent...after a good rinse, you could
drive around several days with drain plug and filler cap off to dry it out
real well....  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: Ratio front to back??
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 09:48:12 -0800 

mtooze writes:

	>Dunno about mogs, but differential drive ratios are possible.
Aren't
	most 4wd Audis and Porches 40/60?<

	I think that the 40/60 split stat. refers to the torque split,
not the drive ratio.  i.e. 40% of the engines torque goes to the front,
60 % to the back wheels.  They can do this by using a vicious coupling
for & aft.

	Paul.

------------------------------

From: GNBull3 <GNBull3@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 12:58:30 EST
Subject:  Re: Help With Jerriecans

Cas wrote,
>Does anyone have information on the proper storage of 5 gallon gas
>cans?

	Don't store open jerricans inside. When you store them always keep them
closed. Empty jerry cans are more dangerous than full, as are open vs. closed.
The reason is that even "empty" jerries have lots of fuel vapor in them and
enough air for combustion. Full cans have more combustibles but not enough
air. Of course these can combust as well but empty cans can explode.
Obviously, when they are open, the chance for ignition is higher. Do you have
Ameri-cans or proper jerry cans. Ameri-cans are the U.S. version and have
screw tops and a vent hole. Jerry cans have a hinged top with a compression
fit and don't have vents. Jerry cans are safer because there is no vent and if
you close them they will be fine inside. Ameri-cans have vents on them, and
depending on manufacturer, these can leak vapor which can be more dangerous
for inside storage, although I wouldn't worry too much especially if the temps
remain consistent. If you don't use your cans too often, empty all the fuel
and pour some kerosene or diesel, and some dry gas in them. Slosh it around
and close them. This will help prevent rust. Don't wash them out with soap and
water as that just allows moisture in them. If you use them a lot, keep them
full. However, always store any fuel container closed, regardless of how much
fuel is in it. Finally, whenever using a jerry can to fill up gas tanks, first
touch the can, and any funnel if you use one, to the vehicle while it is still
closed. The reason for this, is that cans can build up static electricity and
spark when they contact a grounded vehicle. I'm sure you can guess the results
and trust me I've seen them and they are not pretty.     

Cheers,
George Bull

------------------------------

From: JKwas61947 <JKwas61947@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 13:04:18 EST
Subject: Free Rover Parts

I bought a late 2a for parts and will not be needing them all.  I paid $500
for the hulk, and have gotten at least that much out of it in the form of
parts that I'll be using.  So I figure, what the heck, I'm even.  If you need
/ want anything, e-mail me and we'll set up a time for you to come take what
you need.  Bring your tools.

I'm located about 1/2 hour south of Utica, NY

John
Jkwas61947@aol.com
607-674-6256

PS - I've got an old Land Cruiser for free, too.  It runs and can be driven.
I want it off my property.  My home is starting to look like one of those
places you drive by in the country and think to yourself, "I'll bet that used
to be a nice place..."

------------------------------

From: trowe@cdr.wisc.edu
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 12:12:20 -0600
Subject: Re: Free Rover Parts

snip

>places you drive by in the country and think to yourself, "I'll bet that
used
>to be a nice place..."

Hey, how come you didn't drop in and say, "Hi."

------------------------------

From: "Chris Velardi" <tchris@freewwweb.com>
Subject: Remote Light
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 13:16:15 -0500
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ]
	charset="iso-8859-1"

I found a Remote control 1,000,000. candle power halogen lamp that =
adheres buy suction and runs on 12 volts cigarette lighter or direct =
wire (will work with flat aluminum panels) The remote works on and off; =
and 340 degrees right / left; and up and down with a cordless remote =
control.  Found it in Sam's Club for $49.   Now while Driving the D90 =
Offroad at night I wont need the handheld beam or have glare on the =
insides of the truck
Chris "V"

------=_NextPart_000_0067_01BD4B5D.9F949B00
	[ Original post was HTML ]
	charset="iso-8859-1"

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I found a Remote control 1,000,000. =
candle power
halogen lamp that adheres buy suction and runs on 12 volts cigarette =
lighter or
direct wire (will work with flat aluminum panels) The remote works on =
and off;
and 340 degrees right / left; and up and down with a cordless remote
control.&nbsp; Found it in Sam's Club for $49.&nbsp;&nbsp; Now while =
Driving the
D90 Offroad at night I wont need the handheld beam or have glare on the =
insides
of the truck</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Chris =
&quot;V&quot;</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0067_01BD4B5D.9F949B00--

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: Capstan Winch Parts Wanted
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 10:34:55 -0800 

On Saturday I ran into (not literally) a guy with a 1970 Series IIA 88,
nicely faded pastel green station wagon.

We got to chatting about it for a while.  He has been slowly putting it
together for the past few years and one of the only bits that he is
still missing is the drive shaft for his capstan winch.

He has no email so I said that I would contact the list for him.  Does
anyone have, or know of anyone who can supply parts for these winches?
Private sales or commercial / parts suppliers?  I think that he would be
willing to buy internationally...

Paul Quin
Victoria, BC  Canada
Paul_Quin@pml.com

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 13:42:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Capstan Winch Parts Wanted

Driveshafts for winches:

Near as I've heard, the only source for bits for these is the used-parts
market. It's not a really complex piece, though - if he can find a good
machine shop I'm sure they could fabricate him a functional device.

U-joints of a functional type can be had from industrial suppliers for not
huge money, leaving only the shaft itself and the endplates to be made.

                    aj"Planned this for someone..."r

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 9:31:19 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Question: Circlip on front of Txfer Box

Busted circlips can ruin your whole day. Some of them are very springy 
and resilient, others seem to be made of the softest steel. Depending on 
how malleable the clip is, you can remove it with a helper and the 
judicious use of a hammer and drift. Have the helper (it's going to be 
his truck, so he might as well get in there) hold the intact end with a 
pick or screwdriver while you smartly whack the broken end with the drift 
in the opposite direction. This may distort the clip enough that you can 
get a tool under it.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 14:53:28 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Help With Jerriecans

Cas Stimson wrote:

> Does anyone have information on the proper storage of 5 gallon gas
> cans?  

Store them with the lids on. They can be pretty dangerous without the 
lids on. Fumes from 1 gallon gas = 1 stick dynamite! And don't wash them 
soap and water, not very good for the environment!

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 14:12:27 -0500 (EST)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Rover door vents

Hi all...

   I remember a while back that someone metioned that a fellow LRO put vents
in the doors of his Series LR. I was wondering who it was that did this. The
reason I ask is because I was in Boston this weekend and while driving home
the SO and I spotted a green SIII 88. Of course I stopped to have a closer
look and it had these vents in the door. Now where we were at the time is
another story, we were on hwy.9 heading west from Boston but I forget where
we were exactly. 

Just curious :)

Keith
1961 SII 88"
Ottawa

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 13:10:06 -0600
From: mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marcus Tooze)
Subject: RE: Ratio front to back??

> 	>Dunno about mogs, but differential drive ratios are possible.
> Aren't
> 	most 4wd Audis and Porches 40/60?<
> 	I think that the 40/60 split stat. refers to the torque split,
> not the drive ratio.  i.e. 40% of the engines torque goes to the front,
> 60 % to the back wheels.  They can do this by using a vicious coupling
> for & aft.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> 60 % to the back wheels.  They can do this by using a vicious coupling
> for & aft.

Ah. You are quite correct. Now I think about it, a differential ratio
would be silly. The front (or rear) tires would be spinning...unless it
had some fancy torque converter type thing...

M

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 11:32:39 -0800
From: slade@imagina.com (Michael Slade)
Subject: Re: Rover door vents

>Hi all...
>   I remember a while back that someone metioned that a fellow LRO put vents
>in the doors of his Series LR. I was wondering who it was that did this. The
>reason I ask is because I was in Boston this weekend and while driving home
>the SO and I spotted a green SIII 88. Of course I stopped to have a closer
>look and it had these vents in the door. Now where we were at the time is
>another story, we were on hwy.9 heading west from Boston but I forget where
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
>Just curious :)
>Keith

Keith,

I have some photos of a guy here in Portland who put vents in the wing
panel, just to the side of the footwells.  He used the same style vent that
is in the bulkhead  and it looks really nice.  It also puts the air right
where you need it (on your feet).

I could send you the pics if you'd like.

Later,

Michael Slade
'90 RR (test vehicle)
Portland, OR

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 14:41:14 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Ratio front to back??

When I ran a Jeep parts dept, back in the seventies, I noticed that they
typically had different ratios front to rear, but the difference was like
0.005 or less. 
Cheers!!
John Dillingham
near Canton, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
Vintage Rover Service, since 1994, where we say:
Land Rovers for Agriculture!
Land Rovers for Industry!
Land Rovers for Recreation!
Land Rovers forever!! D.V.

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@worldnet.att.net
Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 14:49:35 -0800
Subject: Re: Rover door vents

Michael Slade wrote:
> I have some photos of a guy here in Portland who put vents in the wing
> panel, just to the side of the footwells.  He used the same style vent that
> is in the bulkhead  and it looks really nice.  It also puts the air right
> where you need it (on your feet).
>Most likely also helps to keep his feet moist too. Don't think I would be too 
quick to make this modification

just my .02 worth
Rgds
Steve Bradke  68 lla 88 
WA2GMC        72 Series lll 88 (for sale)
              96 Discovery

------------------------------

From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Bj=F8rnung_Jensen?=" <bjjen13b@online.no>
Subject: Re.:Capstan Winch Parts Wanted
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 21:34:02 +0100

I recently (a week ago) talked to a small company in UK about drive shafts
for an Aeropart Capstan winch. He can make those on order (different
lengths), and can also supply pedal cross shafts (including bushes etc) for
Series One vehicles ( I have one on order and I believe he is currently
making a batch of 23!! of those).

If this is of interest let me know and I can supply the address.

Bjornung Jensen
Norway

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 13:09:17 -0800
From: Clayton Kirkwood <kirkwood@kirkwood-desk.fm.intel.com>
Subject: Re: An LR for my daughter?

Allright Gerald!!!

You (and daughter) aren't crazy. My daughter and I have this process barely
started. We have one in-great-shape 67 109 (6 cyl NADA) which she calls Odie
(don't really know why). We picked up another engine (actually, we now have
4 and hope to be able to ensure 1 solid and possibly a second solid engine).

She got hooked after we bought our first Disco and went rovering with the
Mendo lot. I also told her about an article describing how a father/daughter
pair did essentially the same thing you and I are doing.

We picked up the 109 for around $2600 with a broken down engine upon which
work had started in the POs garage around 14 years ago and never progressed
beyond tearing the engine down. We plan to start all of the work fairly soon
(what ever that mean). I want her to at least understand enough mechanics to
either fix the problems herself or not be taken by a sheister.

Good fortunes,

Clayton

At 12:48 AM 3/9/98 GMT, Gerald wrote:
>My 14 year old daughter has started the two year campaign for
>something to drive. With seriously limited finances she has visions of
>a Land Rover that needs lots of work. (I drive a Disco.) She proposes
>we do the work together (her willingness to do something with her
>parents is part of her campaign.)
>My biggest concern is that the car always bring her home. If it breaks
>down and won't leave home she can accept that.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 24 lines)]
>Gerald
>g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 13:13:04 -0800
From: Clayton Kirkwood <kirkwood@kirkwood-desk.fm.intel.com>
Subject: Re: An LR for my daughter?

Why is it we dads are doing this for our daughters who give us so much grief
at times? Are there any boys getting this wonderful attention/approach?

Clayton

At 02:35 PM 3/9/98 GMT, Gerald wrote:
>What did you buy for Amanda? What shape was it in? How much is she
>paying?
>Thanks for the offer on welding.
>On Mon, 9 Mar 1998 06:45:02 -0500, you wrote:
>>I am at present doing the exact same thing for my 12-year-old...

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)]
>Gerald
>g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 13:31:52 -0800
From: Clayton Kirkwood <kirkwood@kirkwood-desk.fm.intel.com>
Subject: Re: An LR for my daughter?

At 09:57 AM 3/9/98 -0500, Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com wrote:
>Gerald,
>What I ended up getting for Amanda was a 67 IIa 88 - basically the
>short-bed version of Mr. Churchill. I lucked out and found it on a farm for
>$500.....8*)

It appears necessary for father/daughter twosomes to obtain a 67: Alan did
and so did I.

>It is simultaneously in horrid, marginal and excellent condition. With only
>80K original miles or so, mechanically it's fine, but the body had been hit
>in the driver's side and the chassis is bent. Also, after 15 years of
>sitting in a farmer's field there isn't a usable rubber bit on it.

Although not out in the field, a non-driver of 15 years also seems to be in
order as ours too has been non-reg for 15 years.

>The excellent comes from the fact that it had not turned a wheel since 1982
>or so, and as such had not been bodged to keep it on the road. Essentially,
>it's as-delivered in 67minus the wear and tear from being asleep for 15
>years.
>What this means is that it's come completely apart, down to a rolling
>chassis. I'm going to straighten it, repair the bad chassis sections
>(already pretty-well done), then start building it up from there. I got a
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
>new rear tub to replace the Bondoed original (for $75 it wasn't worth
>fixing), and it's getting new doors and tops as needed (and boy, does it!).

>Also the drive train's going to get overhauled and have all its seals
>replaced - bearing replacement as needed, except for the engine that's
>coming out of my 109 (Daddy's building himself a balanced powerplant with a
>high-compression modification and a 2BBL Weber...8*)  ).

Knew there had to be a reason for you to do this Alan :>)))

>To tell you its condition, when I fired up the powerplant that was in
>Trevor (as we named him), I got 75 PSI oil pressure at idle cold! The rings
>are tired, but the bearings were perfect. Nice motor with not a lot of wear
>- it's going to get refreshed, repainted and be a shelf spare for the 2
>Rovers.
>As far as what's coming out of her bankbook at present - honestly nothing.
>She's paying in sweat equity right now, and Dad's looking on this as a
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
>of what we're doing she'll be able to keep the old boy on the road in fine
>shape and deal with breakdowns as necessary.

I told her that she had to come up with .5 the $s of original purchase +
improvements plus sweat equity working on the truck AND to create the
original $ capital, she has to baby sit the two little kids. 

Clayton

>                         Alan

------------------------------

From: "John McMaster" <john.chia@mail.ndirect.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 07:08:07 +0000
Subject: Re: weight of a 2.25 liter petrol engine?

> >  Sorry I think 450 is low weight for a LR 2.25 complete engine & closer
> > to the weight of a complete MGB engine.
> By hook and crook, I ended up with a SII motor in a crate which originally 
held
> a complete Turner rebuilt 2.25l engine.  The crate was marked 220kg, which by 
my
> calculations is 440 lbs.

I thought it looked too heavy 8-)

My Perkins brochure says the 4.236 (3.9 ltr) is 575lb and it way 
bigger and heavier!

john
______________________
John McMaster
john@chiaroscuro.co.uk

green/purple 110/Massey Ferguson

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 15:46:07 -0500
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Subject: Quit fueling around...

>R. Wade Hughes wrote:

>But now spring's coming & I'd better take care of this upside-down
>fuel pump...Yup, it's mounted with the bowl up, don't know if the
>screen is even in it, got no in-line filter. What is rigged is that
>the outlet goes to a "Motorcraft" plastic bowl, & from there one line
>goes to the carb, and another goes back to the tank. 

Say what?!?  This is either the stupidest S.P.O.T. ever...or there's a
reason for it.  The original mechanical pump "pumps" on the release
stroke...the cam depresses the plunger and the spring actually does the
pumping.  This makes the original equipment self-limiting WRT fuel delivery
pressure, as it can't pump harder than the strength of the spring.

Most likely, the P.O. needed to fit a replacement fuel pump, but this one
perhaps worked in reverse...pumped by the cam...and hence, a spill pipe
back to the tank was needed to reduce pressure to the carb, and the need to
fit the bugger upside down.  Kinda defeats the purpose of a sedement bowl,
eh?  I'd get rid of your fuel pump (I bet it doesn't have an external
handle), fit an original and carry a rebuild kit.

Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 16:53:23 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Odie, was An LR for my daughter?

Odie is the dog in Garfield on the funny pages.
Cheers!!
John Dillingham
near Canton, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
Vintage Rover Service, since 1994, where we say:
Land Rovers for Agriculture!
Land Rovers for Industry!
Land Rovers for Recreation!
Land Rovers forever!! D.V.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 13:59:07 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <carradine@landrover.net>
Subject: Re: An LR for my daughter?

 I think you guys got it wrong!  You see, the way women work,
 even the young ones in training is this...  Father and daughter
 work on the old 109 together and become best friends.  After all
 that work daughter lets father know she's really not up to driving
 such an old, draughty and unsafe truck; besides, her arms are too
 weak, reflexes too slow to anticipate ahead 100 yards, and her feet
 can't reach the pedals with enough force to stop the thing, *but*
 she r-e-a-l-l-y loves Land Rovers just like Dad.  Solution??  Father
 trades his Disco with daughter's 109 as a daily driver.  Daughter is
 happy, father is... well, what else, just another father!

-M

At 01:13 PM 3/9/98 -0800, you wrote:
>Why is it we dads are doing this for our daughters who give us so much grief
>at times? Are there any boys getting this wonderful attention/approach?
>Clayton
>At 02:35 PM 3/9/98 GMT, Gerald wrote:
>>What did you buy for Amanda? What shape was it in? How much is she
>>paying?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 15:54:22 -0600
From: mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marcus Tooze)
Subject: Re: Capstan Winch Parts Wanted

> We got to chatting about it for a while.  He has been slowly putting it
> together for the past few years and one of the only bits that he is
> still missing is the drive shaft for his capstan winch.
> He has no email so I said that I would contact the list for him.  Does
> anyone have, or know of anyone who can supply parts for these winches?
> Private sales or commercial / parts suppliers?  I think that he would be
> willing to buy internationally...

Get one made. Driveshaft/radiator shops are a dime a dozen around here...well,
maybe there are 2 or 3 :)

I would imagine that an original would be quite spendy as they aren't made
any more, and probably are worth a lot on the used market. I am guessing
that the 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 17:10:34 -0500
From: Michael_Lenaghan@cayennesoft.com (Michael Lenaghan)
Subject: Re[2]: An LR for my daughter?

     I am in the process of putting a 1972 Series III back on the road. 
     Fortunately it is in great condition. I am merely taking the time to 
     give it a complete going over from front to back (I started at the 
     front because it had a snow plow on it that I wanted to get rid of!!).
     
     My son just turned 16 in February and he is helping me do the work. It 
     won't be his car but I expect he will get to drive it a lot.
     
     Mike

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
> Subject: Re: An LR for my daughter?
> Author:  Clayton Kirkwood <kirkwood@kirkwood-desk.fm.intel.com> at inetmail

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 19 lines)]
> >paying?
>          [ truncated by lro-lite (was 19 lines)]

------------------------------

From: g@ix.netcom.com (Gerald)
Subject: Re: An LR for my daughter?
Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 22:54:48 GMT

I think a Disco is a fair trade for a Series 2 in great shape.

On Mon, 09 Mar 1998 13:59:07 -0800, you wrote:

> she r-e-a-l-l-y loves Land Rovers just like Dad.  Solution??  Father
> trades his Disco with daughter's 109 as a daily driver.  Daughter is
> happy, father is... well, what else, just another father!

--
Gerald
g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 18:21:09 -0500
Subject: Re: An LR for my daughter?

Re: Daughter goes wimpy, cons Dad to swap for Disco:

Nice thought, except Dad has a IIa 109 - no Discos here!

Anyway, Amanda's a dancer and a gymnast - power and reflexes are NOT a
problem...8*)

     aj"Mr. Churchill would eat her lunch anyway..."r

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 15:45:53 -0800
From: slade@imagina.com (Michael Slade)
Subject: Re: Rover door vents

Steve wrote:

>Most likely also helps to keep his feet moist too. Don't think I would be
>too >quick to make this modification

Then don't.

>just my .02 worth

Exactly.

Later,

Michael Slade
'90 RR (test vehicle)
Portland, OR

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 07:07:06 -0500
From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Subject: Re: An LR for my daughter?

  YES.

Clayton Kirkwood wrote:

> Why is it we dads are doing this for our daughters who give us so much grief
> at times? Are there any boys getting this wonderful attention/approach?
> Clayton
> At 02:35 PM 3/9/98 GMT, Gerald wrote:
> >What did you buy for Amanda? What shape was it in? How much is she
> >paying?
>          [ truncated by lro-lite (was 19 lines)]

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 19:08:27 EST
Subject: Re: An LR for my daughter?

In a message dated 98-03-09 19:02:03 EST, you write:

   YES.
 
 Clayton Kirkwood wrote:
 
 > Why is it we dads are doing this for our daughters who give us so much
grief
 > at times? Are there any boys getting this wonderful attention/approach? >>

Ditto here.  My 14 year old son is helping with his SIII 88.  He's pretty good
with the sledqe hammer and is getting better with the wrenches.  Now it's time
to start learning the mechanics part.

Nate

------------------------------

Date: 	Mon, 9 Mar 1998 12:43:39 -1000
From: Wayne Haight <whaight@hawaii.edu>
Subject: frame up restoration/coil conversion

Since my frame got tweaked in an accident I have decided to replace the
frame and do a frame up restoration on Kololohi (1970 Series IIA SWB),
so I thought I would ask the list for the pros/cons of converting to a
coil suspension at this stage. What do I stand to gain/lose? Is the
conversion straightforward or a real hassle? 

-- 
Wayne R. Haight
Senior Fisheries Research Specialist
Joint Institute for Marine and Atmospheric Research
2570 Dole Street
Honolulu, Hawaii 96822

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 21:07:04 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Capstan Winch Parts Wanted

Paul Quin wrote:

> We got to chatting about it for a while.  He has been slowly putting
> it
> together for the past few years and one of the only bits that he is
> still missing is the drive shaft for his capstan winch.

There was an ad in December on either "LR Exchange" or "RN Board"
advertising capstan winch parts for sale. This message has jogged my
memory and here is what I found in my archives:

"From:
         "Dutkewych, Andreas (NY, IT)" <AndreasDutkewych@Caspian.com>

12/18/97 9:58

 As for the driveshaft:  this driveshaft and coupling replaces the early

style one as you describe.  It is not a square key type.
As of yet, we have only tentative plans to make the brackets, etc.
The driveshaft and slip couplings are "a done deal" the last one of this

batch is spoken for.  Probably 2-3 weeks until our machine shop can do
another batch."

------------------------------

From: singing.camel@mcleodusa.net
Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 20:30:46 -0600
Subject: Please Subscribe

Subscribe singing.camel@mcleodusa.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 21:27:10 -0500
From: Russ Burns <burns@ismi.net>
Subject: Re: An LR for my daughter?

At 06:21 PM 3/9/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Re: Daughter goes wimpy, cons Dad to swap for Disco:

More like Dad won't let daughter drive 109 with all the 
work he had to put into it.

>Nice thought, except Dad has a IIa 109 - no Discos here!
>Anyway, Amanda's a dancer and a gymnast - power and reflexes are NOT a
>problem...8*)
>     aj"Mr. Churchill would eat her lunch anyway..."r

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
>problem...8*)
>     aj"Mr. Churchill would eat her lunch anyway..."r

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 21:38:08 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Towing a horse trailer

C R. Wolfe M.D. wrote:

> 1) Gooseneck- take off the dog box on the GMC and add third wheel.
> Only
> use the 350 containing GMC when trailering.  Can I put a third wheel
> on
> the 109 PU??

"Swan's neck" or "gooseneck" style trailers for towing by converted 88s
were sold by several firms in the UK. The 88s had  the rear body removed
behind the seat bulkhead and the hitch was directly over the rear axle.
I don't know if upgraded brakes were fitted to the 88, but guess the
trailers had brakes. Also, operating speeds were probably low.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

From: "The Stockdales" <mstockdale@mho.net>
Subject: A tech tip.
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 20:01:16 -0700

Well heres a little tech tip, or finally a use for that Dr*m*l tool.

As you look down on that yellow knob in your Series Rover, think of this.
On the other end of the rod is a bar that pivots on a shouldered bolt.  The
other end of the bar is a pin that works the transfer case shaft.   The
shouldered bolt wore out and broke on me one day.  The basic problem that it
broke flush with the transfer case.  I don't have a right angle drill to
drill it out, and most of you don't either.  So heres the tip;  Get out the
Dr*m*l tool with a thin cutting wheel on it.  Cut a slot into the end of the
bolt. (also cuts into the transfer case but don't worry its rather thick
there).  From there you can use a screw-driver to extract the bolt.   I know
this may never happen to you but the idea of finally finding a use for the
Dr*m*l made me write this.

Mitch and the Red Dinosaur

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 22:14:13 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Subject: Re: A tech tip.

On Mon, 9 Mar 1998, The Stockdales wrote:

> this may never happen to you but the idea of finally finding a use for the
> Dr*m*l made me write this.

Once you start using the Dremel tool, you can't stop.  I was never a
believer in them, until I borrowed my father's grind a little thingee that
couldn't be brought to the bench grinder and was to small for an angle
grinder.  It was all down hill from there.   

A tip on your tip:  Dremel cut-off wheels are ablative, of course, but are
just  as effective until they get quite small.  Save the used ones,
because here you could have saved you transfer box's case.  

David

> Mitch and the Red Dinosaur
> Dr*m*l made me write this.

------------------------------

From: RSTES <RSTES@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 23:48:51 EST
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

greetings,
   i am looking for the best (and most economical) way to recondition or
replace the heater on my 1970 2-a.the blower is frozen and from the looks of
the core its probably shot.any suggestions for access to replacement parts or
reconditioned units would be appreciated.this heater is mounted on the
firewall.
                                            thanks,
                                             ron

                                     1960 ser 2 trop top
                                      1970 2-a 88 hardtop

ps i am interested in finding a later model d-90.trade or trade and cash.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 01:25:57 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: LR for son...was for daughter

Got no daughters, but three sons. Started with #1 son when he was 14, 
ended up swapping through two other Rovers before he ended up with the 
one he has now. It sits in the garage awaiting rear springs, tune up and 
some other bits done, while #2 son races around the yard with his '62 IIa 
pickup. (#2 doesn't have licence yet) and #3 son is using "psycho" on me 
till he gets his own Rover. He's looking through the classifieds and 
making sure I see he's picked out a few Su*uk*s that might interest him. 
He's already 14. How the 'ell am I ever going to find the time to keep 
all these Rovers going!!

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: "Bill Fishel" <bfishel@cisnet.com>
Subject: Brake pipe routing
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 00:52:39 -0500

Hi all
After sitting for last couple years I've started working on my 88 again.
It's been sitting in the garage for a few years after having replaced the
frame suspension and bulkhead. 
I removed all the brake lines years ago and now I don't remember the
correct routing. The master cylinder and wheel cylinders have all been
replaced.

Would somebody please refresh my memory on the original routing of the
brake lines front and rear.

Danger Mouse is a mostly 74 SerIII 88 with a 2.25 out of a 65 SerIIA.

Thanks to Jim Allen for the info on telling the diff. between 7:1 and 8:1
heads.

As far as the Rovers name when I pulled the intake manifold off the engine
the cylinder head was packed full of dog food. 

That damned mouse could have been dangerous.

Thanks all
Bill Fishel

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 01:46:39 -0500
From: Dan & Sally Cantwell <dcantwel@cgo.wave.ca>
Subject: Re: FIREWALL (galvanizing)

Brett,
my husband is interested in having some parts galvanised, just where are you in 
the
Great White North, and more importantly, where did you send the parts?
Thanks,
Sally & Dan Cantwell
dcantwel@cgocable.net

Brett Storey wrote:

> Huub, I recently has a SIII bulkhead galvanized. I am too happy with it.
> First, I stripped it down completely, then had it sandblasted. Next I filled 
all
> the captive nuts and the bonnet mounting loops with silicone. I then crossed 
my
> fingers and shipped it off for dipping. Two days later it came back and I was
> seriously impressed. Looks great and there is no warping to speak of. Cleaned
> out the captive nuts with a tap and that was it.
> As soon as the warmer weather arrives here in the Great White North, I'll 
paint
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 30 lines)]
> e-mail adress
> Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 09:18:02 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Towing a horse trailer

>"Swan's neck" or "gooseneck" style trailers for towing by converted 88s
>were sold by several firms in the UK.
As an almost total irrelevance,several racecourses have 90's thus
converted to pull starting stalls about.Probably make a good buy
when they've finished with them.They cant have done all that much work.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

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