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Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 20:27:01 -0500
From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Subject: Re: Bleeding brakes

Mark.......Are you sure the shoes have been fitted the right way round. Does
the opposite shoe have a post on the "outside"?

robot1@juno.com wrote:

> effective way to do it solo. Wanted to buy a power bleeder, looked in the
> Snap-On catalog, and discovered theirs is little more than a garden
> sprayer,except that it costs 300 bucks!
> So,I bought a 1 gallon garden sprayer from Wal-Mart. Cost 11 bucks
> I got some vinyl tubing, and a few fittings to adapt it to the garden
> sprayer. Cost two bucks.
> I bought a honking big pipe bushing, about the same size as the Rover's
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 32 lines)]
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
> Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Mar 1998 07:47:08 -0600
From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Bleeding brakes

Hi MArk,
 I like your brake bleeder idea & I will give it a try on my 88 brakes.
It is still double pump brakes inspite of all the work done & parts
replaced.  I keep wondering what I did wrong but have found nothing yet.

Regards,
 Rob Davis_Chicago

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Mar 1998 07:20:42 +0000
From: Cas Stimson <cstimson@gte.net>
Subject: Re: Safty

With the exception of my wife occasionally ramming the cement poles
protecting the gas pumps with the front bumper, our rovers have been
fortunate to elude major accident. 

Still after removing the driver's inside door panel I realized our
rovers do not have much side impact protection.  At the time, I was
considering installing a 4"x4" steel "rock slider" under the doors
between the two wheel wells for off road rock protection; after removing
the door panel I had the sliders installed for impact protection from
other vehicles.

Since the installation of my rock sliders, I have had one of the rovers
hit in the side by a Suburban and an Explorer (in our driveway by some
of my wife's friends) without a scratch.

You may be wondering why I leave my rovers in the driveway when my wife
and her friends are around: to protect the house.

Cas Stimson

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Mar 1998 08:08:42 -0800 (PST)
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: Weber 1 bbl Carbs

>Am I missing something but why 9 degrees before TDC. for a  7:1 ......I would
>have thought 4 to 5 degrees for 83 to 85 0ctane would be closer. Comments
>please

Altitude. This fellow evidentally lives at 8000 feet. You need to advance
the timing to gain back some of th epower losst to altitude. . This is due
to lower atmpheric pressure and less oxygen.

>BTW.  Jim Allen......Re USA  4x4 magazine you mentioned. Yes, just so long as
>it`s not a Link House publication.( I remember and am fully aware of what they
>did to Overlander mag. and David Bowyer, which is why I do not subscribe to
>LRW........also as long as you can promise that  Mr. Garry Wescott ( the
>Benedict Arnold of Roverdom will never grace it`s pages). Cya.

Still holding a grudge against Gary! You are dating yourself my freind.
Don't worry, he won't offer, I won't ask!

The publisher is Dobbs, who does Jp (a Jeep enthusiast mag) as well as
Mustang Monthly, Mopar Muscle and a host of other very successful nitche
market mags. I have done lots of work for them and feel confident in there
forthrightness. Also, I'm the one who will "get the schnitzel" if this goes
sour, so I have don my homework. I think you'll be happy!

        Jim Allen

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Mar 1998 08:34:59 -0800 (PST)
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: Series Oil Bath Filters

>One unheralded feature of the old oil bath filter is it`s ability to protect
>you when you do silly things in deep water.A slug of water down it`s throat
>raises the oil level and stalls the engine before it has time to "hydraulic"
>the pots

Good point. Whatever filter you use, I recommend a covered type and
preferabley one that is ducted to a safe or safer location.

You oil bath die-hards don't need to read the next part. Not much I can say
that will change your minds (and that's OK - no gauntlet being thrown, OK),
but here are some tips for those looking for a free-flowing change. This
usually involves some fabrication or scrounging. I used a covered "Baja" VW
type K&N filter for a while combined with a 34ICH carb, but I relied on the
hose-clamaped flange mount to hold. It didn't and the thing fell off and
was lost. An additional bracket was needed. A search though a wrecking yard
might find a suitable donor air fitler housing that has a K&N filter
application to fir (you could even use a papaer - it'd still flow better
than the oil bath). I'd recommend finding one that has a single snorkal
(make sure the filter housing came from an engine of similar or larger size
so you won't have slow problems) so you can duct the air to a "dryer" part
of the engine compartment (usually at the back).

Hey oil bath affecienados! Have you ever though about installing a larger,
freer flowing oil bath type to combine your love of oily baths with a
little performance? If you find one for a larger displacement engine, it
ought to flow better in the smaller engine applications.

        Jim Allen

------------------------------

From: MurphyK1@psgvl.ps.ge.com
Subject: For Sale
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 1998 11:39:06 -0500 

I am seriously considering selling my '67 SIIA 88".  It is partially
restored.  The engine and firewall are completely restored.   It has a
tropical roof and a galvanized frame.  I have invested $8K in parts alone
over the last year.  The engine underwent a complete rebuild, including fuel
pump, distributor, water pump, timing components, oil pump, and thermostat.
It has all new brakes, springs, shocks, door, and a rebuilt steering relay.
I have all the new parts in stock to complete the restoration including the
paint (marine blue and limestone), wiring harness, brake lines, and
replacement body panels.  Some body work still needs to be sandblasted and
painted.

Please contact me directly via email at kevin.murphy@ps.ge.com or by phone
at (864) 281-7843.  By the way, it is located in Greenville, SC (sorry
Californians).

Kevin

------------------------------

From: "Mark Freeman" <mfreeman@iland.net>
Subject: Series Safety Issues
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 1998 10:55:20 -0600

I have enjoyed reading the recent posts regarding safety issues in Series
Land Rovers.  I agree that the frame design and overall construction make
it  fairly safe vehicle to be in if involved in an accident..  I do think
however that safety should also include the ability to avoid accidents as
well as survive them.  In this regard, I submit the following Series Land
Rover limitations that can impede safety:

1.  Brakes.  Will win no stopping records when new; when oily or not
adjusted stopping is problematic at best. Imperative that hub oil seals be
checked and probably replaced.  If the vehicle has a lot of miles, It will
be most likely that the drums are worn beyond safe limits and the adjusting
cams for the shoes may be worn.

2.  Shoulder Belts.  Imperative.  My vehicles have inertia reel units
originally fitted to Volvo sedans, I have seen belts from Ford pickups used
as well.  It will take a little rigging but fairly easy to do.  The
original Brittax belts fitted to the US Series three were not inertia reel
and  I think, hard to adjust.

3.  Head Restraint.  The low back Series seats don't provide any protection
from whiplash if the vehicle gets hit from the rear.  It would do us little
good for the frame and body to survive a rear end collision if our heads
became separated from our bodies by the impact.

In the past, my Series Land Rovers have been my daily drivers and I have
always considered them to be safe  as long as kept the brakes in good form.
 Some of the most scary driving experiences I've had has been traveling in
heavy traffic. multiple lanes, over 50MPH and having to stop suddenly.  I
always wondered which direction I would go in and if I would have enough
time to pump the petal that second time,

Mark Freeman
Series IIIs:  1975 109, 1974 88, 73 88 - parts car
1997 Disco 

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Weber 1 bbl Carbs
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 98 11:14:15 -0600
From: asanna <asanna@sacofoods.com>

As long as we're on the subject of one-lung Webers.  I'll be out on the 
West Coast rehabbing my son's (my old) IIa.  It's been having a spotty 
running record lately, and one of the things I am going to do is rebuild 
the Weber.  

What are the jet sizes for a low altitude Weber (Eugene, OR)?  The 
problem is somewhere in the fuel system, so I'll be cleaning things up 
from the tanks to the engine.  The IIa, Lulubelle, is a '70 with 345,000 
miles on her.  I had the tanks blasted out and lined about 10 years ago, 
but I have heard that the stuff used to line the tanks can deteriorate 
over time.  They don't leak, but I'm imagining junk floating around in 
there gumming up intake siphons (which may or may not have their screens 
at this point), fuel lines, pump (I replaced the pump 10-15 years ago 
with what A-B had available at the time - no sediment bowl), filter, and 
carb.  Points, condenser, plugs, etc. too will be replaced.  Maybe the 
coil.  

BTW - I have always used 12NY plugs gapped at .030 during the life of the 
Rover, but last year I replaced the 8:1 cracked head with a 7:1.  Should 
I be using different plugs?

Any other suggestions for a good Rover Spring Cleaning?

Tony

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Avenue
Middleton, Wisconsin  53562  USA

asanna@sacofoods.com

1-800-373-7226
(608) 238-9101

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Mar 1998 09:48:00 -0800
From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Subject: Re:A chat about seats

Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 08:03:41 -0500
From: john taylor <jht@easynet.on.ca>
Subject: A chat about seats

>I have a plan to remove the centre bulkhead to accomodate a different
seating arrangement suitable to someone 6'3" - I cannot see traffic lights
without ducking due to the raised seat base which gives me more leg room. I
have installed a J**p roll bar with a 4" lift in it to just fit in under the
roof and I also spread it to touch the sides of the rear box. This gave me
anchors for front seat belt shoulder harnesses when the roof is off - the
only way I can feel comfortable driving the kids around. I will fasten the
sides of the box to the roll bar when the bulkhead comes out, maintaining
the integrity of the box. I should then have leg room to spare. I like the
idea of a full length bed too.

The roll bar will give you some protection in a rollover.  It will not
replace the torsional stiffness in the body that is provided by the
bulkhead.  If you do not do any arduous off-roading this should not be a
problem.  But if you do plan to  work the vehicle a lot on rough trails,
the lack of the bulkhead will cause the body structure to flex and you'll
eventually begin to pop rivets and break fasteners.  Land Rover did not
install the bulkhead for looks or to help keep the dog in the back.  It's
an integral part of the body structure.  It provides a degree of shear
strength that a roll bar cannot provide.  I, too, am tall and have to duck
to see an overhead traffic light when I'm stopped at it.  I've learned to
live with this (you can also watch the reflection of the light in top of
the wing in front of you, too).  But I've had a lot of people, from a
former Land Rover factory manager and vehicle tester to farmers and
commercial vehicle operators I know in the UK tell me how critical the
bulkhead is to the body's integrity.  It's one of the reasons the Series
Land Rover is so strong.  Remove it at your own risk.

________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
   Seattle, WA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Mar 1998 09:46:49 -0800
From: john hess <jfhess@dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: wallpaper (dormobile content) and winches

Hi,

Yes, wallpaper.  Dormies have interior panels that are covered with a vinyl
paper that has a leatherlike finish.  The vinyl when new was off white and
most of mine is now quite yellowed.  I have had the best luck trying to
match it by going to wallpaper stores.  I found a material that I would put
in my Dormie but it is sold in full rolls only.  Thus 35 yards at $7-8 per
yard.

Having seen very few 109 SWs, what is the proper interior like?  Do they
have any of these interior boards, covered with the vinyl?

Are any Dormobile owners out there interested in buying some material?  I
can get a sample piece for $10 and cut it up and mail out pieces.

Has anyone else been here and found the proper "fabric" for the boards?

What would be a reasonable worth for a front crank powered Koenig drum
winch with all the parts, including the rods/cables that go from the
breakfast to the interior bulkhead?

Same question for a bottom of the transfer case pto?

Thanks,

PS.  Elvis because Dormobiles seemed to be popping up everywhere (northern
California) and the rumor got started that they weren't all different, just
the same one, driving around.  Just like people keep seeing Elvis, even
tho' we all know (thanks to Men in Black) that he went home.
Stubby because he's an 88 PU and he looks so short.  Perhaps Bob Bernard
has a better story.
Slug because he doesn't go.

John F Hess   jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us
Land Rover Dormobile web pages:
http://wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us/~jfhess/homepage.html
1968 Land Rover Dormobile "Elvis"
1960 swb pu "Stubby" (actually Katherine's),
1960 swb roadster "Slug" (Alex's) Slug needs everything, donations accepted

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Mar 1998 10:08:57 -0800
From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Subject: Re: Safety

Date: 	Fri, 06 Mar 1998 13:27:14 +0100
From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Subject: Safety

>My name is Peter Thoren and I am on my way to become a Landrover owner my
self. I am planning to buy a 109 S3 Stw diesel and I plan to use it as my
only car. I am a little concerned though. Has there been discussions on the
safety of these cars? Are the safety ok or is Landrovers nothing for people
who is concerned about personal safety when driving? I am new to this group
so if this topic has been discussed before I have missed it.

I don't know how people drive in your country, so my statements are based
on 25 years ownership of a Series III in the US.  In a head-on collision a
Series Land Rover has a pretty good survivability rate.  There is no
steering column to spear you in the chest, for example, and the frame is
very heavy.  Same goes for a rear-end collision.  On the other hand, the
steering wheel does not break away and the instrumment panel and dash have
little padding.  The side impact protection in a Series Land Rover is about
nil.  The doors are very light aluminum panels on a lightweight steel
frame.  The frame outriggers that hold the body are strong enough for that
job, but will not resist an impact.  The high driving position is something
of an advantage because the initial impact of a car hitting you from the
side will be somewhat below you.  In short, the only thing you really have
going for you in a collision is the high strength of the frame.  Everything
else is pretty lightweight and collapsible.  In a hard side impact, the
other vehicle will intrude into the passenger compartment as far as the
Land Rover's frame rail, at which point it will probably be stopped.  But
an awful lot of damage will have occurred before that point.

However, the greatest hazard today in driving a Series Land Rover (at least
in the US near a city) is coping with traffic speeds and denisities that
are much higher than they were in the 1960s and '70s.  A Series Land Rover
has minimal acceleration, so merging or pulling out onto a busy road must
be timed with care.  I still drive my 1973 Series III-88 here in Seattle,
but it takes constant judgement to determine if it's safe to pull out into
fast traffic, change lanes on the freeway, and so forth.  In my 2.25 petrol
Land Rover I cannout out-accelerate anything except a 2.25 diesel Land
Rover, so the only "weapons" at my disposal are the brakes and reasonably
good steering response.  So there's more to the "safety" aspect of a Series
Land Rover than just how well it will survive an impact.  If there is any
vehicle that can set up the potential for an impact in today's traffic, a
Series Land Rover is it.  If you keep the Series Land Rover's performance
limitations in mind and drive accordingly, however, you should have no
problems.  But beware if you switch back and forth as I do from a BMW
6-Series to a Range Rover to a Series III.  They all perform differently
and you have to switch your mindset accordingly or you'll eventually get
into trouble.

________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
   Seattle, WA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Mar 1998 14:01:40 -0600
From: "Herman L. Stude" <hermans@krts.com>
Subject: Re: Safety

> David, who really, really needs to get around to installing shoulder
> harnesses.

I swear by mine!!

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 1998 16:02:32 EST
Subject: Question: Circlip on front of Txfer Box

Hi all,

Got a problem:  The circlip on the front of the output shaft in the transfer
box has broken off one end.  I've tried prying on the end that remains but I
can't get it out far enough to get a thin screwdriver behind it.  What now?

Nate 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Mar 1998 16:09:05 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: Safety

Observation from a "safe" distance.
A few years ago we built a SIIA 88 SW, all stock, galv. chassis etc etc.
Last year at Winter Romp its owner got hit broad side by a Toyota extended
cab long bed pick up that was doing about 55 mph. (unfortunaetly I watched
it happen) The Rover was crossing the highway at a 4 way intersection doing
about 15 mph and got hit by the front of the Toyota just in front of the
bulkhead. It threw the 88 around and the rear end hit the side of the bed
on the Toyota. The owner of the 88 walked away with a sore back. No doubt
from the lack of tall seat back, but the lady in the Toyota was taken to
the hospital for more serious injuries (all survived OK). Both were wearing
seat belts and as in all our Rovers we had installed inertia type shoulder
belts.
A good "safe" story about just how tough a Land Rover can be. I was
impressed. When you handle the individual body panels all day they seem
weak, but togther this 88 took a really hard hit (total write off on the
88) and the driver walked away.

From: Mike Smith,  EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Mar 1998 04:35:43 -0500
From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Subject: 101 TIRE SIZES

 Hi.Mike             Tom T. recently fitted 305/85-R16  ...".Buckshot
Mudders" to
 his 101.They are similar to the super swamper type tread.They were
purchased from
 National Tire. Approx.$160 U.S. They also have a less aggressive type
Coyote
 Radial.  diam.~36"......9.5" to 10" wide.9" tread on the road. Trevor
Smith also
 has some worn XCL`s for sale.Give him a buzz. Personally I will be
buying the same
 as Tom as soon as I have the rest of the fleet  "fettled". I would
never buy a set
 of bar grips, they are scary things on wet or iced roads . National are
based in
 West Virginia I think and advertise in U.S. off-road magazines.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Mar 1998 04:40:15 -0500
From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Subject: Re: Weber 1 bbl Carbs

7:1 Heads require  N.8. plugs.

asanna wrote:

> As long as we're on the subject of one-lung Webers.  I'll be out on the
> West Coast rehabbing my son's (my old) IIa.  It's been having a spotty
> running record lately, and one of the things I am going to do is rebuild
> the Weber.
> What are the jet sizes for a low altitude Weber (Eugene, OR)?  The
> problem is somewhere in the fuel system, so I'll be cleaning things up
> from the tanks to the engine.  The IIa, Lulubelle, is a '70 with 345,000
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 34 lines)]
> 1-800-373-7226
> (608) 238-9101

------------------------------

From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Subject: +ve earth
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 1998 22:54:20 +1000

Ron Beckett wrote:

: 1.  the centre terminal of the spark plug was negative with respect to
: ground.  As anyone with an electronics background in radio valves (tubes
to
: NAS readers) can tell you, a hot negative electrode will emit electrons
much
: more easily.  e.g., the hot cathode of a radio valve.  Therefore, the
spark
: will be easier to generate on a + earth system

Paul Wakefield responded:
>.
>Sorry to be pedantic Ron, but on a spark plug, won't both electrodes be hot
>under normal use, whether it's the centre one or the 'sticky out' one :-)

Not being pedantic at all (well, not very).  I thought of that when I wrote
it but ......  (I can get out this by saying it was my instructor who put
such foolish ideas into my head 8-)).

I don't know if both spark plug terminals i.e., the centre electrode and the
ground electrode will be incandescent or not.  One would have to assume the
the ground electrode would be the hottest as it is in the flame path.

Perhaps the centre electrode runs hotter as it is insulated and can't
dissipate the heat.  Has anyone ever seen any pix of the interior of the
combustion chamber and can answer this?

Why did I open my big mouth.

Ron

------------------------------

From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Subject: Carrying on...
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 1998 23:07:18 +1000

Ron writes:
She says I have to get rid of some of my other unused hobby stuff e.g., my
scuba gear, my model planes, model helicopters, model boats, the Hillman
Gazelles et al.  Hmm, It'd be a wet old drive - it's in Oz. You'd need a
bloody long snorkel

Dave Brown responded:
>Well Ron, maybe you could get rid of the scuba gear at the same time? ;-)

No need!  Elisabeth flew off to Surfers Paradise on Thursday.  My son, Lee,
and I went back for another look at the SIII diesel (on Thursday!) - Lee
wanted to buy it (but he'd need a snorkel for it - see the pix of his FJ55
on my web pages).

Too late.  It had been sold the night before (but not yet picked up).

Silly me.  The last time I looked at SIII diesel (a 109 SW with a Perkins
diesel), Elisabeth said not until she looked at it.  Again, I didn't leave a
deposit.  I dragged Elisabeth out of hospital and took her down to see the
SIII but it had been sold.

So we went and bought a Range Rover.

Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, NSW, Australia (02) 4735-6883
Editor, Hillman Owners Club of Australia Newsletter
check my home page at http://www.users.bigpond.com/hillman
for Hillman and Rover

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Mar 1998 19:36:58 -0500
From: Winn Bearden <wbearden@americus.net>
Subject: Re: bulkhead behind the seats

Thats why I love my hybrid... got the V-8 and coils but I've also got a good
solid series body w/ galvanized cappings.  While visiting my sister in
Atlanta over the holidays I stopped by the LR dealership to drool, and would
you believe the '97  D-90's on the lot already had rust stains dripping from
the cappings!

Faure, Marin wrote:

> From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
> Date: Thu, 05 Mar 98 12:45:44 EST
> Subject: bulkhead behind the seats (dinner?)
> >>To begin with, it's not a good idea to remove the bulkhead that runs
> >>across an 88 behind the front seats as the body gets a lot of its
>          [ truncated by lro-lite (was 9 lines)]
> >place of the bulkhead, which may actually be stronger than the original
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 58 lines)]
>   1973 Land Rover Series III-88
>   1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

--
Winn Bearden
P.O. Box 464
Americus, GA 31709
912-924-6513 (H)
912-928-4984 (CELL)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Mar 1998 16:43:50 -0800
From: John Hong <jhong@best.com>
Subject: dual oil bath air filters???

Hi All,

So if just one original rover oil bath filter would be too restrictive on
larger engines/carbs, then what about having 2 oil baths in parallel?   How
about a larger aftermarket oil bath?

just wondering on yet another rainy N. Cal afternoon before I play 109
brake bleed...

john

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Mar 1998 19:49:31 -0500
From: Winn Bearden <wbearden@americus.net>
Subject: Paint

I know it's common knowledge that Krylon Antique White  is the same
shade as Limestone, but today I couldn't find any!  In the slot where it
used to sit was Navajo White.  I think it's the same shade (I hope so,
spent the whole day shortening, hammering, and painting the old NADA 109
top to fit the 100" )  Does anyone know if its the same color?

--
Winn Bearden
P.O. Box 464
Americus, GA 31709
912-924-6513 (H)
912-928-4984 (CELL)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Mar 1998 02:07:52 +0100
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: +ve earth

Somewhere in my dim and distant past - could be school physics, could be
electrical engineering apprenticship - I remember something about
electricity being assumed, for practical purposes, as flowing from
positive to negative, but that electrons actually flow in the opposite
direction - does this have any bearing on the subject?

Adrian Redmond

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mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
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Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Mar 1998 17:22:07 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: wallpaper (dormobile content) and winches

john hess wrote:

> Hi,
> Yes, wallpaper.

> Having seen very few 109 SWs, what is the proper interior like?  Do they
> have any of these interior boards, covered with the vinyl?

I'm not entirely certain of the boards.  The 109SW do have some interor
trimpanels at the corners of the windows but these were originally "Rhino"
vinyl.

cheers

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Mar 1998 08:46:29 -0500
From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Subject: Re: Series Oil Bath Filters

The Bedford  4x4 used by the military has a larger version of the Series oil 
bath
filter. Tom T. fitted one into his yet to be completed V8 project by partially
recessing it into the wheel arch.

Jim Allen wrote:

> >One unheralded feature of the old oil bath filter is it`s ability to protect
> >you when you do silly things in deep water.A slug of water down it`s throat
> >raises the oil level and stalls the engine before it has time to "hydraulic"
> >the pots
> Good point. Whatever filter you use, I recommend a covered type and
> preferabley one that is ducted to a safe or safer location.
> You oil bath die-hards don't need to read the next part. Not much I can say
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 28 lines)]
> ought to flow better in the smaller engine applications.
>         Jim Allen

------------------------------

From: IBEdwardp <IBEdwardp@aol.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 1998 21:00:49 EST
Subject: Re: Paint

In a message dated 98-03-07 19:52:18 EST, you write:

<< I know it's common knowledge that Krylon Antique White  is the same
 shade as Limestone, but today I couldn't find any!  In the slot where it
 used to sit was Navajo White.  I think it's the same shade (I hope so,
 spent the whole day shortening, hammering, and painting the old NADA 109
 top to fit the 100" )  Does anyone know if its the same color?
  >>
Wynn, try Tractor Supply Company if you have one nearby. International
Harvester White comes in spray cans, quarts and gallons. It seems to be good
quality enamel and appears to be "Limestone".

Ed Bailey
66 S2A 88
Somewhere in East Tennessee

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Mar 1998 01:12:45 -0600
From: Wesley Harris <wharris@midmon.com>
Subject: Re: Paint

At 09:00 PM 3/7/98 EST, you wrote:
>In a message dated 98-03-07 19:52:18 EST, you write:
><< I know it's common knowledge that Krylon Antique White  is the same
> shade as Limestone, but today I couldn't find any!  In the slot where it
> used to sit was Navajo White.  I think it's the same shade (I hope so,
> spent the whole day shortening, hammering, and painting the old NADA 109
> top to fit the 100" )  Does anyone know if its the same color?

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
>Harvester White comes in spray cans, quarts and gallons. It seems to be good
>quality enamel and appears to be "Limestone".

Also try Almond (Krylon or Rustoleum color, I canna remember in my current
state), which is a dead ringer for Limestone.

Ta,

Wes Harris
'64 88 SW (in disarray)

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