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Date: 	Fri, 06 Mar 1998 13:27:14 +0100
From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Subject: Safety

Dear Landrover owners,

My name is Peter Thoren and I am on my way to become a Landrover owner my
self. I am planning to buy a 109 S3 Stw diesel and I plan to use it as my
only car. I am a little concerned though. Has there been discussions on the
safety of these cars? Are the safety ok or is Landrovers nothing for people
who is concerned about personal safety when driving? I am new to this group
so if this topic has been discussed before I have missed it.

Best wishes,

Peter Thoren
--------------------------------------
Peter Thoren 
Långmyrtorp
740 20 Vänge
018-39 20 56
peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se
--------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: glenn.rees@PAREURO.COM
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 12:37:32 +0000
Subject: Where are you?

     Jimmy Patrick !!
     
     Where are you? contact Glenn at <Glenn.Rees@Pareuro.com>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 08:03:41 -0500
From: john taylor <jht@easynet.on.ca>
Subject: A chat about seats

I have a plan to remove the centre bulkhead to accomodate a different
seating arrangement suitable to someone 6'3" - I cannot see traffic lights
without ducking due to the raised seat base which gives me more leg room. I
have installed a J**p roll bar with a 4" lift in it to just fit in under the
roof and I also spread it to touch the sides of the rear box. This gave me
anchors for front seat belt shoulder harnesses when the roof is off - the
only way I can feel comfortable driving the kids around. I will fasten the
sides of the box to the roll bar when the bulkhead comes out, maintaining
the integrity of the box. I should then have leg room to spare. I like the
idea of a full length bed too.
Anyone else done this? 
What seats with headrests work?

Yours John Taylor
SIIa chev V6 bastard

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 15:10:02 +0300 (EET)
From: Semih Bingol <semih@leo.ee.hun.edu.tr>
Subject: Re: Safety

On Fri, 6 Mar 1998, Peter Thoren wrote:

> self. I am planning to buy a 109 S3 Stw diesel and I plan to use it as my
> only car. I am a little concerned though. Has there been discussions on the
> safety of these cars? Are the safety ok or is Landrovers nothing for people

Welcome Peter.

Don't worry, LR's are safe enough. You have a negligibly small probability
of any unpleasant encounter because it is certain that she will spend most
of her time lying on your driveway and pissing :) When (and if) you manage
to put her on tarmac, you are almost equally safe because you'll be
driving the slowest driveable thing in whole Sweden. Well, almost.

Good Luck, hope you join.

Semih Bingol
74 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 15:05:13 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: Safety

Peter Thoren wrote:
> Dear Landrover owners,
> My name is Peter Thoren and I am on my way to become a Landrover owner my
> self. I am planning to buy a 109 S3 Stw diesel and I plan to use it as my
> only car. I am a little concerned though. Has there been discussions on the
> safety of these cars? Are the safety ok or is Landrovers nothing for people
> who is concerned about personal safety when driving? I am new to this group
> so if this topic has been discussed before I have missed it.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)]
> peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se
> --------------------------------------

Heeheeheeheehee!

Other cars are our crumple zones...

Regards

Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za
http://AfricanAdrenalin.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 14:29:26 +0000
From: Mick Forster <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Safety

Peter Thoren wrote:
> I am planning to buy a 109 S3 Stw diesel and I plan to use it as my
> only car. I am a little concerned though. Has there been discussions on the
> safety of these cars? Are the safety ok or is Landrovers nothing for people
> who is concerned about personal safety when driving? I am new to this group
> so if this topic has been discussed before I have missed it.

Safe? are they safe? Its the only vehicle I would let my  18 yr old son
out in without worrying if he would get home ok. I don't worry about the
other cars he may inadvertently crush on his way home .........
Last night about midnight I heard the familiar sound of metal scraping
along concrete. I went out and sure enough son #1 had arrived home. The
bumper of the 88" had scraped a nice line along the wall at the side of
the drive, had that been a "normal" car the front end would have been
bent beyond repair. The Landy bumper just had a residue of sandy powder
on the end, no dents or bends in it and no damage to the body panels.
Son #1 blamed the neighbour opposite for parking her car in the wrong
place.

On the road other drivers give way for you, they become very polite and
wary of the steel girder attached to the front of the vehicle. You drive
above their heads and anticipate their every silly move. The Landy
usually won't go fast enough to be a hazard to little old ladies, and
any way its big enough for even the blindest little old lady to see it
coming.

Anyone any other "safety" tales?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 14:52:24 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Safety

>Anyone any other "safety" tales?
Seen in our local weekly paper...oh..a couple of years ago now..
"Mrs X is in hospital,suffering from leg injuries.Her FIAT was
wrecked.The Land Rover was undamaged."
As I recall,the Fiat had waltzed onto a roundabout straight in front
of the Land Rover.The tone of the article was that she was lucky...
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 10:07:08 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Cracked distributor cap

Con Seitl <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca> confesses: "I usually keep my valuable
spares hidden in amongst the diffs and brake drums."

Now we know why it is cracked.  As to the use of a cracked cap, the only
proper procedure to follow is "Delucasization".  Instructions follow:

Place the cracked cap on a hard surface like concrete or cobblestones.
Using your all purpose Land Rover fixit tool (hammer), smash the thing to
bits.  This will prevent you from being tempted to use it and cause you to
get another for your spares kit.  By now, you will surely remember to stow
it more carefully.

NB This technique works with Zenith carburetors and anything lucas.

Paul Donohue
1965 Land Rover 109

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 09:39:20 -0800
From: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Subject: Re: Safety

At 02:52 PM 3/6/98 +0000, you wrote:
>>Anyone any other "safety" tales?
>Seen in our local weekly paper...oh..a couple of years ago now..
>"Mrs X is in hospital,suffering from leg injuries.Her FIAT was
>wrecked.The Land Rover was undamaged."
>As I recall,the Fiat had waltzed onto a roundabout straight in front
>of the Land Rover.The tone of the article was that she was lucky...
>Cheers
>Mike Rooth

Back in '72 I was hit on the left front girder/guardrail/bumper pretty
hard. The accelerating Mustang  caught the bumper which proceeded to rip
the sheet metal from the headlight all the way back to the rear wheel arch.
Looked like a openned can. Bumper impeeded tire rotation, easily bent back
straight w/ starter crank. No injuries. Only a loss of license :> 
   Cheers    Peter

Peter
'60 109SW
'64 88
'70 88 (in pieces)
'73 88 (driver)

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 10:46:36 -0500
Subject: Re: safety:

A year ago Feb. 10th, I was heading home through the streets of Somerville,
MA, when this Honda decided to take a left turn from the right lane.

There was a thump, a loud tearing sound, then the vehicles separated. I
drove to the side of the road, pulled over and got out to find....no
damage. A few flecks of paint on my bumper, but that's all.

The Honda was another story.

Mr. Churchill had opened it up like a sardine can, from mid-driver's wing
all the way to the taillight.

They towed the Honda. Mr. C never even stalled.

Best part is I still have my safe driver insurance credit - wonder if the
riceball jockey does? 8*)

               ajr/Mr "the Honda eater!" Churchill

------------------------------

From: MRogers315 <MRogers315@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 10:50:06 EST
Subject: Re: Tanks alot

I have had experience with both repairing a leaky tank and new none genuine
replacements
The most sucsessful repair (it lasted 5 years) was using a product called
"Tank Slop" as the name suggests you must remove the tank and "slop" the stuff
around inside. It then forms an impervious coating all over the inside of the
tank and (once left to dry) seals small rust holes . I bought it from a
vintage car part supplier.

My current Lightweight hybrid has a new none genuine under seat tank, which
when new had no paint (or any other protection) between the tank and the extra
skin that re-inforces the bottom and forms the mountings. I had heard stories
of this type of replacement only lasting 3 or 4 years before rust holes start
to appear so I treated mine as follows.

Seal all around the bottom plate with silicon sealant--turn tank upside down
and pour warmed Waxoil in between the two skins via the opening around the
drain plug--seal drain plug opening with more silicone.

After this treatment my tank is still good after 5 years of abuse.

Mike Rogers
(Two heads are better than one Particularly on a V8)  

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 08:12:26 -0800 (PST)
From: Michael Roberts <psu00712@odin.cc.pdx.edu>
Subject: Re: A chat about seats

> Semih Bingol wrote:
> > Mike, the problem is not to find replacement seats only. I want to
> > be able to use them as a mattress to sleep at the back. I go camping
> 	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 7 lines)]
> > opportunity but my current seats are very easy to remove (sometimes
> > come out themselves while driving :) and fit into that space perfectly.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)]
> Con Seitl
> 1973 III 88 "Pig"

Doesn't Jeff Berg have a set-up similar to that in his 88 (over the rear 
bulkhead)?  Where does Husla sleep anyway?

Michael Roberts
Vernonia, Oregon

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: Series II Turn Signal Wiring Question
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 08:44:54 -0800

I ordered a new harness for my 1961 Series II (not IIA).  The colour
coding for the signal wires matches what is in the manual.  The diagram
for the turn signal harness (IIA) matches what I have.  Mind you, I
haven't put the new harness in yet...

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 144101239
Victoria, BC  Canada

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: safety:
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 09:04:03 -0800

Using other vehicles as your crumple zone is fine but be aware that if
you come in contact with an equally tough object while moving at even
50mph (80 km/h), say a cement bridge pier, rock wall, or Kenworth,  it
will be your body that becomes the crumple zone. :-(

At that speed, your internal organs can come loose from their moorings
if decelerated quick enough.  Ouch!

Paul.

------------------------------

From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Subject: Re: bulkhead behind the seats
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 09:09:20 -0800

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 05 Mar 98 12:45:44 EST
Subject: bulkhead behind the seats (dinner?)

>>To begin with, it's not a good idea to remove the bulkhead that runs 
>>across an 88 behind the front seats as the body gets a lot of its 
>>rigidity from that item.

>agreed

> > The current Defender has a much weaker body than the Series Land 
>>Rovers, and the elimination of much of the Series' bracing,

>not agreed at all. There is a section of the rollbar that is there in 
>place of the bulkhead, which may actually be stronger than the original

>item. UK defenders still have the bulkhead.

The people I know in the UK who have used Land Rovers for years for a
living (a couple of sheep farmers and a commercial vehicle-hire company
owner among them) have all told me that while the Defender has a better
suspension and drivetrain, the bodies are not anywhere near as robust as
the bodies on Series Land Rovers, the Defender's roll bar and bulkhead
notwithstanding.  The body cappings, according to them, are lightweight
metal with nothing like the strength or rigidity of the similar items
used on the Series machines.  The single-piece windshield frame has
virtually none of the strength of the heavy, galvanized split frame of
the Series Land Rovers; in fact they have told me that in accidents or
rollovers the windshield and frame often pop right out of the vehicle.

While the body panels on Series Land Rovers will certainly dent and
wrinkle under abuse, my friends tell me that over time the bodies of
Series Land Rovers hold up better under the rigors of daily farm and
commercial work than the Defenders they've owned.  I have read similar
statements in Land Rover Owner and other publications as well.  This is
not to say the current Defender body is junk; far from it, it is an
excellent vehicle for what it was designed to do.  But manufacturing
costs (the Defender is VERY expensive to put together because it is all
hand work- I've watched them do it on the assembly line at Solihull)
have forced the manufacturer to reduce costs any way they can, and using
lighter and less costly components in the body was one way to do it.

My farmer friends have told me that their ideal vehicle would be a
Series III-109 High Capacity pickup with a Defender coil-spring
suspension and a new Tdi engine.  I know there are people in the UK who
have built up these kinds of machines, but farmers and commercial fleet
operators don't generally have the time for this sort of DIY project.
One of my friends who has a sheep operation near Little Langdale in the
Lake District sold his three-year old Defender 110 pickup and bought a
reconditioned Series III 109 pickup because he was putting too much time
and money into repairing the first vehicle as tailgate hinges failed,
doors jammed, windows stopped opening, etc.  He said he was also
experiencing a lot of body corrosion due to the tendency of the cargo he
carries to relieve itself all over the bed of the truck.  He claims that
Series Land Rover bodies seem to be a bit more resistant to the
corrosive nature of his work although he has no idea why.   He prefers
driving the Defender, but he went back to the 109 because, according to
him, it just holds up better.  Others' opinions may vary...

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 12:28:47 EST
Subject: Re: safety:

In a message dated 3/6/98 12:06:27 PM Eastern Standard Time, Paul_Quin@pml.com
writes:

<< At that speed, your internal organs can come loose from their moorings
 if decelerated quick enough.  Ouch!
  >>
This is why seatbelts are imperative.  Organs only come loose (or worse--aorta
avulsed) if they get some momentum behind them and then your body is suddenly
stopped (like hitting the steering wheel, dashpanel or windscreen) .  This
goes for brains in the cranium too.  Preventing the initial momentum with
properly fitted seatbelts prevent this gruesome outcome.

Medically speaking as a pathologist...
Nate MD

------------------------------

From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Subject: Re: Air filter clogged?
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 09:23:28 -0800

Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 10:39:46 -0800 (PST)
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: Air filter clogged?

> I have always found a noticable seat-o-the-pants performance
increase by changing filters to a paper or oiled cotton gauze. I may
have
the chance to prove it on a dyno in a year or so. With all the test data
I
scrounged up, I still feel confident that either of these two
alternatives
offer superior filtering to the oil bath. No, I do not want to start the
debate about  K&Ns again, but it reminds me that I am awaiting soem test
data for a test that was done recently that may clear it up a little
better.

When Mt. St. Helens blew up on May 18, 1980 (or '81, I can't remember
which), fine volcanic dust settled all over eastern Washington, at times
up to several feet thick.  It was absolute hell on vehicles as the
silicon-based dust clogged air filters and scoured out the insides of
engines as it was inhaled.  I remember reading that the emergency
services in eastern Washington (fire, police, ambulance) had to come up
with a way of protecting their engines as they had to respond to calls
no matter how bad or deep the dust was.  The solution?  They temporarily
fitted their vehicles with- you guessed it- centrifugal flow oil bath
air filters.  I have no idea who made them or if the services made them
up themselves, but they proved to be the only type of filter that
effectively protected the engines from the volcanic dust without
clogging up or degrading performance (much).  I drove my Series III to
eastern Washington a few months after the volcano blew, and was amazed
at the quality of the dust.  After living in Hawaii for 20-odd years, I
was expecting a coarse, almost sand-like material, as that's what the
Hawaiian volcanoes spew out.  But the dust from Mt. St. Helens had the
consistency of talcum powder.  The slightest breeze or the air currents
from a passing vehicle blew up immense clouds of the stuff.  It would
clog a paper or fabric filter almost immediately.  The only effective
filtering method found was one in which the dust-laden air was blown
down onto a surface of oil which would capture most of the dust.  But
even with the oil-bath filters, they had to be cleaned out every couple
of days depending on how badly the dust was blowing around.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 12:30:58 -0800
From: Dave Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Thanks Bill Leacock

Thanks Bill.  I changed the bullnose pulley to the heavy Diesel the
first time but after a while I decided to put the lighter gas one on.  I
didn't really worry about the timing marks because I put a vacuum gauge
on the vehicle and now I just tune to 21" of Hg and it seems to be the
best performance for my unit.  I went and bought a 12 Volt coil that
said it was for Rovers so I hope it was the right one.  The instructions
seem to say that if it needed a ballast risistor it would say so on the
can, and it doesn't, so I am going to try it out.  Sure started well for
the past week however and I am a bit sorry to go with the lower voltage
coil.  Anyway new points every two weeks was a bit much.
Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

From: robot1@juno.com
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 12:35:51 -0600
Subject: Bleeding brakes

Just bled the brakes on Sheila. Found an inexpensive and extremely
effective way to do it solo. Wanted to buy a power bleeder, looked in the
Snap-On catalog, and discovered theirs is little more than a garden
sprayer,except that it costs 300 bucks!
So,I bought a 1 gallon garden sprayer from Wal-Mart. Cost 11 bucks
I got some vinyl tubing, and a few fittings to adapt it to the garden
sprayer. Cost two bucks. 
I bought a honking big pipe bushing, about the same size as the Rover's
fluid reservoir.  Cost one buck.
I clamped the large pipe bushing and the top of the fluid reservoir
together with a pair of hose clamps I already had, and a piece of
radiator hose I already had.

Fill the garden sprayer with fresh Castrol LMA, pump it about twenty
times, and go from bleeder to bleeder bleeding off air. Easy to
completely change fluid this way, too. Total investment: 14 bucks (plus
fluid). And the sprayer is a handy place to store extra Castrol. I was so
impressed with myself!.
Unfortunately I've also found that there's no little post on three of the
rear brake shoes for the snail cam to bear against, so as soon as the
brake pedal is released, the springs push all the fluid back into the
reservoir. Soon as i get this fixed, I'll be in like flint!

Mark

1967 109 "Sheila"

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

From: GElam30092 <GElam30092@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 14:23:03 EST
Subject: Fuel tank cleaning... forgot step 4b

<<    4) Lift above head and shake vigorously??       >>

As mentioned months ago, add step 4b)  Shout loudly, "Bring out yer dead!"

Gerry Elam
PHX AZ

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 13:16:43 -0600
From: mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marcus Tooze)
Subject: leak from front right drum...not brakes

I am getting some fluid leakage from my front right drum ('67 109).
It's not brake fluid, so I guess it's either axle or swivel oil. Is
it likely the swivel is leaking? Or is there an axle seal in there 
which could have gone bad?

Marcus

----- End Included Message -----

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 14:30:31 -0500
From: jberg@hearstnewmedia.com (Jeff Berg)
Subject: Re: A chat about seats

Michael Roberts quips:

>Doesn't Jeff Berg have a set-up similar to that in his 88 (over the rear
>bulkhead)?  Where does Husla sleep anyway?

Jeff Berg has a large tool bin that fills half of the rear bed
 of his '88. There is also a plywood cover--seldom used--which fills the
rest of that space and sits flush with the top of the toolbin.

Husla sleeps with Jeff *Meyer*.

rgds, RoverOn!

jab

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================

"Intelligent" and "Talented" don't sound especially
pejorative. That's why the talentless and stupid had
to invent the word "arrogant."
	Kristen Brennan, Buffalo Girls
	http://www.jitterbug.com/pages/buffalo.html

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258 <CIrvin1258@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 14:30:28 EST
Subject: Re: Landy for parts!

Dammit..why can't these deals be in California?

Oh well...I'm ordering my new tranny from Paddocks now, because the ban has
been lifted, and it's time to go to the desert and play!

Charles

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 11:32:11 -0800 (PST)
From: "Paul Gussack" <pcg@tennis.org>
Subject: re: SIII oil bath filters 

With all the recent discourse on oil bath filters a question occurs to me.  I
have the canister type with the metallic mesh portion in the base.  In the
workshop manual it seems to indicate that this apparatus can be extricated from
its holder.  I however have been unsuccessful in doing so and have been
unwilling to use extreme force for fear of damaging my filter.  Thus the
question at hand is "do the filter thingee in the bottom of the can come out
and has anyone had the same problem I have?" 

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Paul G SIII SWB "Grendal"

PS-The seat question has brought out many great ideas-bravo

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 11:44:37 -0800 (PST)
From: Michael Roberts <psu00712@odin.cc.pdx.edu>
Subject: Re: A chat about seats

> Michael Roberts quips:
> >Doesn't Jeff Berg have a set-up similar to that in his 88 (over the rear
> >bulkhead)?  Where does Husla sleep anyway?
> Jeff Berg has a large tool bin that fills half of the rear bed
>  of his '88. There is also a plywood cover--seldom used--which fills the
> rest of that space and sits flush with the top of the toolbin.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> Husla sleeps with Jeff *Meyer*.
> rgds, RoverOn!

Jeff,
	Just *ahem* checking to make sure you know your name.  
Congradulations!  You passed!  Extra points for remebering the correct 
dogs name.

Michael (red-faced) Roberts
Vernonia, Oregon

------------------------------

Date: 	Fri, 6 Mar 1998 07:56:15 -1000
From: Wayne Haight <whaight@hawaii.edu>
Subject: Repair/Restoration

Aloha,

As some of you may know my beloved Kololohi (1970 Series IIA SWB) was
involved in an accident that left her with a tweaked frame. The front
members are bent down about 90 deg. and the frame is kinked behind the
right front tire. I probably could have a frame shop straigten it out,
but the cost is likely to be near what a new frame would cost. Does
anyone have any experience with (A) having a frame straightened or (B)
oredering a new frame from the UK and having it shipped to the US? Is
option (B) less expensive than just ordering from Rovers North or
British Pacific?  I guess I am leaning toward option (B) and starting a
frame up restoration. Any comments, suggestions?

Mahalo nui loa,
-- 
Wayne R. Haight
Senior Fisheries Research Specialist
Joint Institute for Marine and Atmospheric Research
2570 Dole Street
Honolulu, Hawaii 96822

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 14:57:07 EST
Subject: Re: Repair/Restoration

In a message dated 3/6/98 2:53:40 PM Eastern Standard Time, whaight@hawaii.edu
writes:

<<  (B)
 oredering a new frame from the UK and having it shipped to the US? Is
 option (B) less expensive than just ordering from Rovers North or
 British Pacific?  I guess I am leaning toward option (B) and starting a
 frame up restoration. Any comments, suggestions?
  >>

I'd call various places in UK (Craddocks, Paddocks etc), RN, BP AND DAP, etc
to look at the various prices don't forget to ask about the shipping charges
which can make a huge difference particularly for you.

Nate

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 15:54:15 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: leak from front right drum...not brakes

Marcus Tooze wrote:
> I am getting some fluid leakage from my front right drum ('67 109).
> It's not brake fluid, so I guess it's either axle or swivel oil. Is
> it likely the swivel is leaking? Or is there an axle seal in there
> which could have gone bad?

More than likely it's the hub seal that's gone bad. Get to it and fix it 
before you contaminate your brake shoes. Also check to see if the seal 
ring that it rides on is nice and smooth, not pitted.

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 21:17:45 +0100
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Repair/Restoration

Møjn

Is the entire frame warped? Or is it just the back/front?

Replacing half a frame is realtivly easy, and relativly cheap - usually
the back end rusts before the front, so it would be lucky if it was the
backl that was smashed, but by the sound of your letter it's the front.

But replacing this bit is not too hard - well worth the ewffort in my
humb.op. (I'm just replacing the firewall - the "Torpedo" as it's called
in Danish - so I have a clear view of your problem at the moment!

Good luck.

Adrian Redmond

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------------------------------

From: Wrecker <wrecker@wreckers.demon.co.uk>
Subject: jumping out of high range
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 20:22:10 -0000

Just finished work on a customers'Series 111 109" which had had the gearbox
rebuilt by her previous owner but kept jumping out of high range.
Tried the usual stuff like replacing the detent plunger and spring and
checked the fit of the rubber boot around the lever no joy so stripped the
box out.To find the bearing retaining circlip on the front of the transfer
box was missing! allowing the shaft to push the bearing forward and the
shaft to float.
The owner tells me that when he ask the previous owner about the missing
circlip the guy told him that when he had rerbuilt the box he couldn't find
the circlip so used bearing retainer to hold it in place. I think someone
had rather high hopes in the abilities of "Loctite technology" :)
Just thought I would pass this little story on incase anybody out theer in
Land Rover land had the same symptoms and had tried the usual fixes with no
results.

Wrecker
wrecker@wreckers.demon.co.uk

------------------------------

From: "The Stockdales" <mstockdale@mho.net>
Subject: Weber 1 bbl Carbs
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 14:12:41 -0700

Today I took my SII to a performance tune-up center.  Here is what I
learned.

Vehicle:  1959 88" with 7:1 comp.  2.25l (77bhp@4250 rpm as stated in the
Haynes)
Gasoline: 87 octane (oxygenated, Colorados winter blend)
Current elevation:  roughly 8000 ft above sealevel.
Timing: approx. 9deg BTDC
Spark plugs, points, valves set to standard rover specs.
Weber 1 bbl 34ICH with a 155 main jet, and a 190 air correction jet. (this
was established by the shop,  trying other jets and comparing the dyno
read-outs.

Observation - 62 hp peaking at 3500 rpm

also of note: lost 2hp when the oil bath was removed.

This indicates a number of concerns;
1.  the weber is too small for the application.
2.  the winter blend gasoline causes a significant reduction in hp.
3.  the 7:1 engine is poorly suited to this elevation.

The performance with this set-up is very poor.  I have available a rochester
or a solex, both need rebuilt.  Am considering going with the rochester, as
I recall seeing something in LRO about it performing better than the others.
I'm not going to do anything yet, waiting for normal gasoline in May.  Until
then I'm still regulated to the slow lane.

Any other ideas out there?

Mitch and the Red Dinosaur.

------------------------------

From: Michael Fredette <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>
Subject: Re: Weber 1 bbl Carbs
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 14:21:38 -0800 (PST)

 
 Today I took my SII to a performance tune-up center.  Here is what I
 learned.
 
 Current elevation:  roughly 8000 ft above sealevel.
 
 Observation - 62 hp peaking at 3500 rpm
 
 also of note: lost 2hp when the oil bath was removed.
 
 This indicates a number of concerns;
 1.  the weber is too small for the application.
 2.  the winter blend gasoline causes a significant reduction in hp.
 3.  the 7:1 engine is poorly suited to this elevation.
 
 Mitch and the Red Dinosaur.

Mitch,

   Your current elevation is what's hurting you, not the carb. One of
my other silly pastimes is being a private pilot in a Beech Bonanza.
As a pilot, we learn about the standard adiabatic loss rate, which is
roughly 1in/hg per 2000 ft rise in elevation. That is, less atmospheric
pressure as you gain altitude. Less air pressure means less air available
for combustion, it works out to approx 2% loss of HP/1000 FT gain in altitude.
Aircraft engine HP figures are based on best mixture at 8500 ft which yields
75% power as compared to sea level HP figures. At your 8000ft altitude,
your engine is barely making 76% of sea level HP. The sea level HP rating
for your 2.25L is 77HP @4250RPM at sea level. A figure of 62 HP at 8000 ft
is probably pretty good. The fuel issue is probably not hurting you too much
as long as you're not pinging. Going to the 8:1 head only gets you 4 more
HP at sea level, maybe 2.5 at your elevation. Sorry, but that's the problem
with living at altitude. Turbochargers were originally developed for aviation
to bring sea level HP ratings for engines operating at high altitude.  

Rgds
Mike Fredette

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 14:43:43 -0800 (PST)
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: Weber 1 bbl Carbs

Mitch,

        GOOD STUFF!!! Love to see stuff on the dyno.Could you e-mail me
privately the location of the dyno shop you used. I'v ebeen looking for a
shop that was a little more open minded than the ones I've been using.
         My comments.

1) Were you serously expecting to see 77 hp at the rear wheels? Remember
that there is a fair bit of loss to friction in any drivetrain. Some recent
dyno tests I did for a Four Wheeler project rig with 135 stock hp at the
flywheel, yielded 94hp at the rear wheels - at 5500 feet (about a 42%
loss). Your rig lost only 25%. Not too bad! In truth, the hp ratings that
LR used in those days were on the optimistic side. Some dyno tests I have
seen show only 68 flywheel hp on a high-compression 2.25.

2) Your hp rating at 8000 feet is extraordinary, especially considering
it's a low comp engine! You loose about 3% of your power for every 1000
feet over 300 feet (the general rule of thumb). Of course, with your timing
set at 9 BTDC, it helps. I wonder if yor engine has had a valve job and
perhaps head was milled some. Also, are you SURE it's a 7:1 head. They get
swapped and the change isn't obvious. If you don't know how to tell, we can
fill you in.

3) The drop in power from removing the air filter could come from two
places. For one, when you are dealing with a fairly restrictive air filter,
the carb is jetted for that restriction. If you remove the filter, it tends
to lean out the mixture and this can cause a drop in power. When I went to
a free flow air flter (with a 34ICH, ironically), I had to go up one jet
size to get the mixture right.  The second idea has to do with test
proceedure. Did you do 4-5 tests to get an average of a 2hp loss,or was it
just one run showing a 2hp loss. I found that 2hp can be gained or lost
between one test and another for no apparant reason.Some tests I ran when
trying to plot a small difference would show a 5hp gain  one time and a 3hp
gain the other. I just averaged the runs to get my numbers. I thought it
was more accurate that way.

3) You may remember that I flow benched all the Rover 4-cylinder carbs a
while back for a LRO article (perhaps the one you mentioned) and the 34ICH
outperformed the Zenith by a bit, the Solex by a lot, but was about 20 CFM
behind a Rochester and 80 CFM behind a Weber 32/36 DGV 2bbl. When you
figure the engine's theoretical carb needs, the Weber 34ICHcomes closest to
the ideal size for a stock engine (to 4500rpm).

4) I too have wondered about the gas. Don't know for sure, but I doubt it
costs much on a low comp engine like yours.

5) The 7:1 is a defineite liability at our altitude (I'm here in Grand
Junction but my dyno tests were in Denver).

6) If you want the flow test numbers for the carbs I tested, e-mail me.

        Keep up the good work!!

        Jim Allen

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 18:31:07 -0500
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: Distributor

Dave writes  : -
I found my problem as soon as I took the distributor cap off.  My points
block melted.
The red plastic that holds the points got so hot it turned into a molten
mass and the points of course just went so far out the vehicle wouldn't run.
I am sure it is because the coil is not working correctly so I want to
replace it.  Does  anyone know a generic coil ref. number like Canadian Tire
or Canadian NAPA number for that part.  I also need to know what other
British vehicles take the 45D4 Distributor so I can get parts when Land
Rover isn't listed. 

 The LR Lucas distributor is a 25 D4 and is the generic type fitted to most
4 cylinder  British Cars in the sixties, differences being the advance
weights and angle and the vacuum advance angle.
 The red plastic melting has nothing what so ever to do with the coil, it is
simply friction of plastic on metal. The red plastic points are notorious
for this in a pooorly maintained venicle. The usual effect is that the
points gap narrows as the cam wears, thus causing ignition problems, but in
dry conditions the plastic will wear very quickly.  It is necessary to
LUBRICATE the cam from time to time. New points come with a small tube of
grease especially for this purpose. One has however to be careful in the
application of the lubricant to the cam so that it is not distributed
throughout the interior and in particular on the points.
  There is an alternative type of points that is available that uses a fibre
reinforced material for the cam which is more tolerant of abuse. From memory
the red plastic point part # was Lucas CS 1 ( Contact set 1 ) the fibre cam
set was Lucas CS5  they were marketed under the Quikafit designation.
 The points are the same as used in MG B's Mini's Morris Minors, Rover PG 4
cylinder, Sprites, TR4, Spitfire etc etc. Any BMC, Leyland, Austin Rover,
Morris, Wolseley, Rover, MG, Triump  4 cylinder. 
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 18:31:04 -0500
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: wiring

The wiring of the indicators is not polarity sensitive, h. The ser 2's were
fitted with indicators as an optional extra and as such the wiring diagram
is in the optional equipmment part of the manual. two types of switch were
avalable. a dash mounted or a column mounted ( operation T 82 or T84 )
The dash mounted switch cancelled by a timer built into the switch. 
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Distributor NAPA Canada does have them
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 15:44:23 -0800

About the coil...
I went to NAPA back in Canmore, Alberta and they were able to get me one
right off the shelf.  I am still using that same one.  They have the number
in their books, just bring in your old coil.  If you have problems, e-mail
me direct and I will go look at the number.
I did also use a 1960 Chev/GMC coil for some time on my series III.
wahooadv@earthlink.net

Cheers
David
Stay at Home Father
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
Ural Motorcycle - S/V KALAKALA, Ingrid 38, ketch

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 19:58:29 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Series Oil Bath Filters

Paul wrote:

With all the recent discourse on oil bath filters a question occurs to 
me.  I
have the canister type with the metallic mesh portion in the base.  In 
the
workshop manual it seems to indicate that this apparatus can be 
extricated from
its holder.  I however have been unsuccessful in doing so and have been
unwilling to use extreme force for fear of damaging my filter.  Thus the
question at hand is "do the filter thingee in the bottom of the can come 
out
and has anyone had the same problem I have?"

Yes, the filter element will come apart, and beneath it you will find 
some very nice grundge, whereupon you will say "Holy Grundge" or 
something to that effect. Clean this out, cause it's not supposed to be 
there. Also clean filter element in varsol and dry. Refill with clean oil 
to the mark. 

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Mar 1998 01:03:45 +0100 (MET)
From: Terje Krogdahl <tekr@nextel.no>
Subject: Re: Bulkhead to Windshield rubber

On Thu, 5 Mar 1998 ASFCO@worldnet.att.net wrote:

> When I stripped my series lll the rubber was fixed to the bulkhead..
> I Had asked R/N about this and they advised to seal the gasket to the
> windscreen frame 
> I guess its a toss up 

I think not. It's probably a good idea to fasten it to the bulkhead with
some kind of sealer, because you REALLY don't want moisture trapped
between the rubber and the bulkhead. The windscreen frame is galvanized and
tolerates moisture better. I used 3M window sealer on the leading edge of
the rubber, and so far there has been no problems with rust on top of
my bulkhead.

Just my .02.

-- 
Terje Krogdahl
Norwegian Land Rover Club
www.land.rover.no
1972 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 20:28:33 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Leave of absence

LT J Jackson wrote:

> so if I don't sign back on by the 18th or so, and you need a SIII with
> a new
> frame, give my wife a call.  For that matter, if you also need a wife,
> a
> package deal could probably be arranged (though her frame is a bit
> older...;-).

I believe different laws apply to multiple wives than multiple LRs.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 21:24:21 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Subject: Re: Safety

On Fri, 6 Mar 1998, Paul Oxley wrote:

> Other cars are our crumple zones...

I just now, two hours ago, had an other cars are our crumple zone
experience.  Oncoming car made a left turn in front of me, which he didn't
really have room to do, and stops.  I hit the car, a chevy celebrity
wagon,  at about 15 mph, pushing the whole thing several feet sideways.  I
pushed the rear passenger door in about a foot, and his driver's side
headlights exploded.  I expect it is a total loss. 

Damage to the Land-Rover:  I bent one of baskets protecting the turn
signals, and may have slightly bent the front bumper.  

David, who really, really needs to get around to installing shoulder
harnesses.

------------------------------

From: "The Stockdales" <mstockdale@mho.net>
Subject: A Rose by any other name.
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 19:30:47 -0700

Well here it is, the list you have all been waiting for:
The Names of various Rovers are listed below along with some pertinent info
about how the name was defined. Owner information has been removed to
protect the owner from ridicule, or other form of embarrasasment.  Please
enjoy what you are about to read.

=======================================
1973 III 88 "Pig"
1972 III 88 "Cammy"
1962 IIa 88 "Millie"
1955 I 86 "Chief"
1972 III 88 "Bitsa"
=======================================
95 D90 SW "Limey"
=======================================
59, SII "VORIZO" - (I used the postal code for Hornby Island, off the coast
of Vancouver Island, to name my beast since it's a great place to visit in
the summer, the LR loves it there, and by changing the 1 to an I the name is
pronounceable.)
=======================================
73 S III 88 "BMW" - (My Landy really has no name as such, though it's at
times refereed to as "The BMW" by me and my family. "BMW" in this case
standing for 'Buzz, Moan, and Whine" - the noises it makes)
=======================================
Range Rover's name is "GROVER" and his number plate is GRRRRR
=======================================
1973 SIII 88, blue, white, and aluminum "Fezzik"
=======================================
70 Land Rover SIIA Petrol Hardtop "Zenith"
=======================================
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
=======================================
SIIa v6 "Bastard"
=======================================
67 109 regular "Sheila"
=======================================
My friends (?) in VT started calling mine the Antichrist back in '86 when I
received the license plates (by chance) of 6A666.
=======================================
68IIa "PimPim"
=======================================
66 109 2dr "Dancing Bear"
=======================================
91 RR GDE#172 "Enterprise"
=======================================
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
=======================================
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation "Old 502"
=======================================
1) The '95 D110 TDI P/U was just "The Landy" to differentiate it from the
'82 Gelandewagen 300GD which was the "Merc" .
2)The "Landy" was replaced with a '96 D90 TDi CSW and she was such a little
lady compared to the D110 P/U! Her first trip was to visit a *very* English
female friend named Jane, so she became "Lady Jane"
3)  In 1997 I was diagnosed as suffering from a non-cancerous condition that
needed treatment with chemotherapy once a week. This therapy made me feel so
dreadful for two days every week and very aware of the existence of the grim
reaper. So as compensation for my misery, I decided to indulge myself in a
'97 D90 TDi SV P/U named Reaper"
4) An increasing family necessitated the replacement of "Lady Jane" with '98
D110 TDi CSW. The first time I opened the door I received the fright of my
life when the alarm went off! (No alarm systems prior to '98 D's). Then I
heard frightening stories about very premature failure of the Continental
A/T tyres fitted as standard equipment. Next came frightening stories of
folk getting stuck in the bush et al because of immobilisers that would not
de-immobilise. The Afrikaans word for *fright* is *skrik*, so his name is
"Skrikitt"
=======================================
SIII SWB "Grendal"
=======================================
'86 Range Rover 4.6L auto (The Last Aquila)
=======================================
Muddy
=======================================
109 TC - "Mr. Churchill"
=======================================
1967 88 - "Trevor"
=======================================
SWB S2A, petrol Hard top "Thing on a Spring", the name comes from an
eighties Commodore 64 game, involving thing bouncing on the evil badies (the
Je**s of the game).
=======================================
My Land Rover is a 1970 Series IIA 88" petrol. I call her Gemsbok,
(pronounced hemsbock). This is the Afrikaans name for the Oryx Antelope,
perhaps the hardiest of the antelope, common throughout the desert areas of
southern Africa. There is an Angolan sub-species, but the most common is the
Kalahari Gemsbok. We saw them by the hundreds when travelling throughout
Namibia a couple of years ago. It was the Namibian trip which also convinced
me to seek out a Series Rover.
=======================================
"Spikkels" the 1959 Rand-Lover is now officially road-worthy (SA equivalent
to MOT, I guess, except that since it's been privatized, and since the first
return visit is free, I passed the road-worthy even though the brakes are
not set quite right and apparently some U bolts are loose too.) "Spikkels"
could translate to "Patches", very loosely. ("Spots" maybe). Also translates
to "Randy". Now you know. :-)
=======================================
SIII 88" - "Green HELL"
=======================================
My Land Rover is a 1966 109" SW and is named 'No Chance'. The registration
in the UK for my Rover is 'NCH 170E'. The short story is my wife came up
with the name using NCH in the registration as her guide.
=======================================
Mine's called "Kerbau". Kerbau is Malay for water buffalo, a nickname my
offroad buddies coined due to its tendencies to stay in the mud every
opportunity it could. Kerbau is also a name used to describe anything large
and clumsy. The only 109" among the 88"s and airportables, "Kerbau"
definitely is the name for me.
=======================================
Lurch - So named in recognition of the smooth ride. Lurch is a 1965 RHD Land
Rover 109 Dormobile Used to have a 1966 109 Regular named Dr. Leakey in
honor of the Kenyan anthropologist (and the spots on my driveway). Sold it a
long time ago
=======================================
My 1960 109 Station Wagon is called the "Tortuga" Spanish for tortoise --
because it lives in the desert (Tucson Arizona) it's brown, and it's slow.
=======================================
Mine was called "Alice" after the tank in "Kelly's Heroes". I've since gone
off the name, so its nameless. Speaking of which, my '67 IIA 88" is
currently named "Nancy" after my mother-in-law (long story). It's also
completely stripped out, so it may receive a new name when complete. I think
my mother-in-law would like that.
=======================================
Our Landy, 'Castrol', gets it's name from it's unstoppable addiction: and it
marks it's territory (driveway) to ward off other marques. My favourite name
of all the Landies I've met is 'Black Duck', as in <italic> "not this little
black duck!" ...a'66 swb.
=======================================
'Pickles' -Australian Ex-Army Land-Rover SWB Series 2 1959
=======================================
'74 109FFR "Winston"
=======================================
'72 88" "Tilly" (for u-Tilly-tarian)
=======================================
'65 109" SW "Baldwin" (as in, "what a Baldwin"...wife's idea,gimme' a break)
=======================================
FINSUP 1967 IIA 88 "Soft top"
Never really meant for her to be named at all--I don't name my cars. FINSUP
is my vanity plate though and in keeping with the "English" tradition, the
name is taken from the tags. Fins Up! is something of a tribute to Jimmy
Buffett--who wrote a song called Fins ("Fins to the left, fins to the right,
and you're the only bait in town") to which all good Parrottheads perform
the Fin Dance at concerts. I used to sign off my postings on the Buffett
newgroup with the salutation(?) "FinsUp!"
=======================================
1967 109 IIa SW 2.5ltr TD I call my truck "Norma" after my grandmother. I
guess I don't know if  she objects or not :). She was born in britan and in
my eyes is a fine  example of all things anglo. She's tough, has a great
sense of humor  and while she has a lovely home, she doesn't seem to mind a
fine layer  of dust.
=======================================
My 68 IIa 88 is named Lazarus. He's not as easy to raise from the dead as
the biblical one was, though. I tried breathing up it's nostrils (sorry, air
cleaner), but it didn't work. So it's he's in the middle of a frame
over,hopefully to be finished by the end of July for the big bash in
Cortland NY.
=======================================
I live in Pretoria, South Africa
My first Rover I named "PhaXX" for two reasons.
1.)  The registration plate is 'PXX714T', so I took the PXX part, added a
'h' and an 'a', mainly due to reason number 2.
2.)   My best friend and I both wanted Landies and he said he'd get his
first, but lucky me, I got mine 9 hours before he got his so I told him that
he has to face the 'PhaXX' (facts), and that I got mine before he did.
My current Landie doesn't have a name anymore.
The old name was 'Nors', which in Afrikaans means 'Aggressive' which came
from the registration plate (again) 'NRS109T'. The 109 part in the plate was
appropriate coz the Landie is a 109......*surprised look* The new
registration plate is DXF138GP, so I'm clueless as to a new name. I always
tend to name my vehicles after their plates, but South Africa is changing to
a new numbering system, so I ended up with this
one :(
Ahhh well, one day, I'll get a good name for it, but for now it's called
"The Truck", or "The Landie"......duh! A bit un-original. The specs of the
two Landies: PhaXX - '78 S3 109 2,6 P/U
NoName - '84 R6 109 2,6 S/W
=======================================
1967 109 SW "The Big Rover"
1951 80 HT "The Little Rover"
Both names were courtesy of my 4 year old daughter
=======================================
My military 109 series III is called "Henk".  During our holiday in Spain
two years ago the Landrover suffered from a lot of misfires and bangs from
the exhaust because of -we found out later- a split exhaust valve.  This is
when we started calling it "henkie plof", but this only makes sense to
people from the Netherlands. It is something like "puffing Hank".
=======================================
My IIA is called baby. Has to do with leaks and urgent noises that are not
easily interpreted.
=======================================
First LandRover , sold september 1998 was named "Betsy". She was a  gearbox
howling, smoke emitting, oil leaking '88 diesel ragtop from  1981.  The
original Betsy was a sturdy, slightly smelly, sweat dripping, big,
friendly, cleaning women who sometimes worked at my parents house  about 30
years ago. The name just popped into my mind and stuck.
My current rebuilding project is called "Rusty" because rust is what  is/was
holding frame and firewall together. He is a blue '88 diesel  hardtop,
spread aroud my house at the moment.
=======================================
The two '88 petrol 4x2's ex Begian army vehicle's I own have not been  named
yet since one is going to perish as a donor for Rusty. (you  don't want
emotional attachment to get in the way, I would end up  buying a third one!)
=======================================
My LWB Series III Safari is generally reffered to as the "Landy" as opposed
to the Metro. My son uses the SWB Series IIa which he calls "Efred". The
details are: LWB Series III Safari 1973 2.25 petrol Reg: VTD 537L (Free road
tax from Jan 1999) Chassis:  3100712B
SWB Series IIa 1963? 2.25 petrol Reg: EFD 564B
=======================================
My rover is a 66 IIA 88" named Mr. Sinclair, after, I think, the gasoline
chain with a dinosaur as their mascot. I am never quite sure whether this is
a reference to the vehicle's voracious appetite for fuel, or his
obselecense.

I have a '63 SIIA 88" SW which leaks fairly badly.  Since the front fenders
were trimmed out to accomodate larger tires, it looks fairly aggresive.. for
a
IIA.

Name:  " Soldado Sangrando"  which roughly translates to   "Bleeding
Soldier"

1961 Series II 88"  "Ol' Yeller"
=======================================
Mine 1959 109" regular is Indy .  I
got a custom plate almost right away: INDY 1 more because of my recent (at
the time)
decision to "go indy" -- become an independant consultant but also because I
wanted to be like Indiana
Jones.  Later, I realized that the Rover's name was actually Indy.

My sister's 1973 88" SW is named Wendell.  Not really sure why, except for
the alliteration part (her nickname is Weet.)

My '73 88" and '59 88" don't have names yet.

Brad Blevins  has a 109" called the Sagecoach, but
I'd best let him tell the story.  8^)
=======================================
62 SWB,   "Gromit"
65 SWB   "Mr. Grey" after the PPM (Previous Prime Minister)

My friend, Steve Moore owns  "Monty", a Ser III and "Booger", a Green
SerIIa, both SWB.
=======================================
I have a 1974 NAS Series III 88 named "Red Rufy". The name is courtesy of my
9
year old son who actually wanted to call it Rough & Reddy, because the SIII
is
poppy red with a cream hard top. We decided on a customized license plate,
but
all variations of that name were taken & Red Rufy it became. It's nickname
is
"Puffy" because of the healthy puff of smoke it emits in the morning on
first
start-up.

BTW, we also have a 1995 Discovery named EFE, which means "stalwart soldier"
in Turkish

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 10:47:08 -0500
From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Subject: Re: Series Oil Bath Filters

One unheralded feature of the old oil bath filter is it`s ability to protect
you when you do silly things in deep water.A slug of water down it`s throat
raises the oil level and stalls the engine before it has time to "hydraulic"
the pots into oblivion.Around this neck of the woods there are some people
who just cannot stay away from the fun of driving with water over the hood
(bonnet).You may have seen some of the articles in LRO magazine."John" who
shall remain nameless, hee hee hee, decided to run without an oil bath and
drove at speed through what was no more than a glorified puddle at a location
near Picton.The engine was damaged to the extent the con rods had to be
"torched " out of the bores they were so bent.In all the years we have been
deep water wading his is the only engine we have lost in this
way.........well except for that 101 episode .......but that`s another story.

BTW ......"John" how`s the bulkhead mod coming along. The way the kids are
growing maybe you should consider letting them have the 88 and you get a
109....more leg room, more space, missus will love it. Or maybe a 110.! ! Why
should I have to suffer alone.Let the kids have some fun.

Con P. Seitl wrote:

> Paul wrote:
> With all the recent discourse on oil bath filters a question occurs to
> me.  I
> have the canister type with the metallic mesh portion in the base.  In
> the
> workshop manual it seems to indicate that this apparatus can be
> extricated from
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 22 lines)]
> Con Seitl
> 1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 22:45:33 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Subject: Re: Weber 1 bbl Carbs

On Fri, 6 Mar 1998, Jim Allen wrote:

> 4) I too have wondered about the gas. Don't know for sure, but I doubt it
> costs much on a low comp engine like yours.

Oxygenated gas has a lower energy content per unit volume.  It has had
various carbon atoms replaced with oxygen, which reduces the amount
energy available to be extracted by breaking bonds.  I haven't got my
notes on this in front of me, but the energy loss is on the order of 5%,
which means about 4 HP in a stock 2.25.  Because of the amount of
atmospheric O required to burn the oxy-gas is lower, you can run somewhat
richer, which will give some of the power back, but at the cost of reduced
fuel mileage.  You will likely see reduced mileage anyway, because you use
more throttle to make up for the lost power.  

David

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 11:07:45 -0500
From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Subject: Re: Weber 1 bbl Carbs

Am I missing something but why 9 degrees before TDC. for a  7:1 ......I would
have thought 4 to 5 degrees for 83 to 85 0ctane would be closer. Comments please
Jim.
BTW.  Jim Allen......Re USA  4x4 magazine you mentioned. Yes, just so long as
it`s not a Link House publication.( I remember and am fully aware of what they
did to Overlander mag. and David Bowyer, which is why I do not subscribe to
LRW........also as long as you can promise that  Mr. Garry Wescott ( the
Benedict Arnold of Roverdom will never grace it`s pages). Cya.

The Stockdales wrote:

> Today I took my SII to a performance tune-up center.  Here is what I
> learned.
> Vehicle:  1959 88" with 7:1 comp.  2.25l (77bhp@4250 rpm as stated in the
> Haynes)
> Gasoline: 87 octane (oxygenated, Colorados winter blend)
> Current elevation:  roughly 8000 ft above sealevel.
> Timing: approx. 9deg BTDC
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 32 lines)]
> Any other ideas out there?
> Mitch and the Red Dinosaur.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 11:54:34 -0500
From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Subject: Re: Safety

I suppose it must be about ten years ago now that the indefatigable Murphy hit
a hydro pole.....not a wussy little pole ,but one of those poles on steroids,
about 18" in diameter ....holding up a transformer ,13.8kv.line ,bell, cable
T.V. the works .....and snapped the sucker in two. The pole looked like one of
those straw brooms.It was written up in LRO mag. in `87  I think. Any lesser
vehicle and that pole would have been in the trunk Yes we were hurt but not too
seriously and Murphy was in intensive care for a long time but recovered nicely
thank you very much (yes the same Murphy stopped by the constabulary in
Oshawa).
I have always been in awe of the capacity of these beasts to withstand abuse
but never more so than that morning..The police,ambulance, fire dept guys that
responded to the crash could not believe the scene. Their jaws were hanging
down. One son with broken ribs, one with hand and face cuts, me with face cuts,
pole very very dead, and that cheeky sod Murphy just standing there, all pumped
up and looking slightly cross-eyed with the front right frame horn reduced to
about one inch in length..Safe......You bettya.

Peter Thoren wrote:

> Dear Landrover owners,
> My name is Peter Thoren and I am on my way to become a Landrover owner my
> self. I am planning to buy a 109 S3 Stw diesel and I plan to use it as my
> only car. I am a little concerned though. Has there been discussions on the
> safety of these cars? Are the safety ok or is Landrovers nothing for people
> who is concerned about personal safety when driving? I am new to this group
> so if this topic has been discussed before I have missed it.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 19 lines)]
> peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se
> --------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 12:16:32 -0500
From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Subject: Re: A Rose by any other name.

You can add " Murphy" to the list....1974 ...88......Don`t ask......... Also "
Baldrick" for my 24v. Lightweight named after the scruffy little " herb" in.the
Blackadder  TV series.The rest of the fleet....later. .

The Stockdales wrote:

> Well here it is, the list you have all been waiting for:
> The Names of various Rovers are listed below along with some pertinent info
> about how the name was defined. Owner information has been removed to
> protect the owner from ridicule, or other form of embarrasasment.  Please
> enjoy what you are about to read.
> =======================================
> 1973 III 88 "Pig"
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 260 lines)]
> BTW, we also have a 1995 Discovery named EFE, which means "stalwart soldier"
> in Turkish

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