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Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 13:48:20 +0100 (MET)
From: Paul Wakefield - Serco <Paul.Wakefield@esrin.esa.it>
Subject: re: +ve earth

On Wed, 4 Mar 1998, Ron Beckett wrote:

: 1.  the centre terminal of the spark plug was negative with respect to
: ground.  As anyone with an electronics background in radio valves (tubes to
: NAS readers) can tell you, a hot negative electrode will emit electrons much
: more easily.  e.g., the hot cathode of a radio valve.  Therefore, the spark
: will be easier to generate on a + earth system.

Sorry to be pedantic Ron, but on a spark plug, won't both electrodes be hot 
under normal use, whether it's the centre one or the 'sticky out' one :-)

Cheers,

Paul.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Mar 1998 09:40:57 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: A chat about seats

Semih Bingol wrote:

> Mike, the problem is not to find replacement seats only. I want to
> be able to use them as a mattress to sleep at the back. I go camping
> and off-roading whenever time permits and prefer to sleep in the SIII
> rather than trying to set up a tent on 1 ft. of snow at midnight.
> I don't know whether the Defender hi-backers will give me that
> opportunity but my current seats are very easy to remove (sometimes
> come out themselves while driving :) and fit into that space perfectly.

Why not try and fit a piece of plywood to rest on top of the wheel box's, 
thus creating a "King" size bed, with storage under the wood for those 
things that would otherwise get piled outside or in the front while your 
supposed to be sleeping. ;-)

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca
Subject: Coronel Blancmange??????
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 09:29:00 -0500

Andy Blackleys enquiry about the Coronel Tapioca Event led to the
Ilerteca page and some interesting info about their SuperVitesse
overdrive. This seems to be a two speed transmission that replaces the
regular clutch. They are fitting it into a TDI Discovery for a ladies
team in the Moroccan event. I've mailed them for more information and
will post any interesting replies. Fitting the unit in this location has
many advantages, it only has to transmit engine torque not the
multiplied torque of low ratios, it leaves the transfer case free for
fitting rear PTO, and  the replacement clutch in the SV unit is sealed,
oil immersed.

It sounds like the answer to many of the problems of sticking clutches,
whining O/Ds, PTO's etc. We'll see.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Mar 1998 06:59:50 +0000
From: Cas Stimson <cstimson@gte.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel tanks

I own three Land Rovers - 110, 90 and RR.  Your fuel readings are quite
normal from what I can tell. 

I think the idea behind owning a Land Rover is more gut than
mechanical.  Next time you are out in the wilderness a hundred or so
miles from the next maintained road, get out of the vehicle and see how
the suspension is hanging to get a more accurate idea of how much gas
you have left; this is true rovering.

If you are not comfortable with that you can do what I do and take along
with you two 5 gallon cans for gas.  Better yet, British Pacific in
central California sells ten gallon spare gas tanks for 90's and 110's. 
You could install two of these and have over 36 gallons on board.

Best of luck

Cas Stimson

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 10:40:22 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Any lro's in Vienna?

Peter Hirsch seems to have grown quiet lately, but I'm sure he still has 
his Series truck. Check the archives for his email, as I don't have it 
handy. 

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Mar 1998 11:54:07 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Any lro's in Vienna?

Adams, Bill wrote:
 
> Peter Hirsch seems to have grown quiet lately.....

Peter has only un-subscribed for a while, busy schedule and all, but I 
believe his e-mail is up and running still, as I've corresponded with him 
since his "retirement".

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 07:56:00 -0800
From: Todd_Wilson@ccmail.columbia.com (Todd Wilson)
Subject: More fuel tank questions (diesel)

     
     The PO fitted a spare tank under the passenger seat in my 109 (right 
     seat, LHD) It isn't too convenient as it's under a screwed down panel. 
     That isn't really the issue though. 
     
     I opened it last night to check on it and see what it would take to 
     press it into service (I knew it was emptyish and figured there would 
     be condensation or ??????)
     
     Upon removing the panel I found the top of the tank has a large filler 
     cap 10cm and once that is removed there is a cylindrical filter that 
     goes from the filler neck to the bottom of the tank. It has grooves 
     pressed into the sides so it can be lifted up through the filler hole. 
     It comes to a stop and if rotated 15 degrees or so it will lift out. 
     Kinda kewl. There is some debris at the bottom (gritty scruddy stuff) 
     I plan to pull the plug and drain the tank Probably less than a half 
     gallon of fuel at the bottom. 
     
     Is there any means to clean the tank other than removing it? I think 
     since the opening is large enough I could fashion a little mop and 
     dredge the thing out. I certainly wouldn't want to put any water in 
     there. Is there anything else that would work to rinse with (diesel I 
     suppose but....).
     
     I've been using Red Line diesel additive and they refer to using 
     larger quantities for "initial treatment' of the system. 
     
     So my plan is to:
     
     Empty dregs from tank
     pour something that I can swab around to collect grunge
     replace plug and add 1/4 tank of fuel plus additive
     Drive on tank 
     Change filter 
     fill tank and additive
     
     sound reasonable??
     
     BTW My truck uses the CAV type dist pump.
     tew

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 16:11:50 +0000
Subject: Re: More fuel tank questions (diesel)

>  The PO fitted a spare tank under the passenger seat in my 109 (right
 >    seat, LHD) It isn't too convenient as it's under a screwed down
panel.
 >    That isn't really the issue though.
>     I opened it last night to check on it and see what it would take to
>     press it into service (I knew it was emptyish and figured there would
>     be condensation or ??????)
>     Upon removing the panel I found the top of the tank has a large
filler
>     cap 10cm and once that is removed there is a cylindrical filter that
>     goes from the filler neck to the bottom of the tank. It has grooves
>     pressed into the sides so it can be lifted up through the filler
hole.
>     It comes to a stop and if rotated 15 degrees or so it will lift out.
>     Kinda kewl. There is some debris at the bottom (gritty scruddy stuff)
>     I plan to pull the plug and drain the tank Probably less than a half
>     gallon of fuel at the bottom.
Sounds suspiciously like a military tank.  The panel over the top has a
catch
though, rather than screws.   Find a scrap lightweight/FFR and nick one.
Or make one yourself. It doesn't only takes a few secs. at garages to lift
the
rear sear out, and the panel.
(you should see the look on the passengers' faces!)

>     Is there any means to clean the tank other than removing it? I think
>     since the opening is large enough I could fashion a little mop and
>     dredge the thing out. I certainly wouldn't want to put any water in
>     there. Is there anything else that would work to rinse with (diesel I
>     suppose but....).
I have cleaned a tank out (lots of rusty powder in the bottom). Water,
hoses, etc. then make sure it is completely dry inside. (we used a
hairdryer or painstripper or something like that).
I then found the next day, that the tank was leaking - hence it was out of
commission!

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 10:09:04 -0600
From: mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marcus Tooze)
Subject: Re: More fuel tank questions (diesel)

Really, the best way to clean a tank is to remove it:

1) Add length of chain or pebbles (count the pebbles!)
2) add hot water
3) add detergent of choice
4) Lift above head and shake vigorously
5) empty and repeat.
6) remove gunky chanin/pebbles (count 'em)
7) Leave in hot sun, or basement to let completely dry out.

This guarentees you'll get all the crud out. Just swabbing you are likly
to not get everything, dislogde a bunch of crap which will
quickly block your fuel line (BTDT).

Marcus

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 11:38:05 -0500 (EST)
From: nickf@co.wayne.in.us (Nick Fankhauser)
Subject: I'll post those wiring diagrams if someone will send them.

If someone will scan those much-discussed wiring diagrams, and send the
files to me as an e-mail attachment, or alternately put them at an FTP site
that I can access, I'll post them on my web site. I already have two other
wiring diagrams and some capstan winch diagrams as well- I might as well
make it a general repository for list members. If it works out well, I'm
willing to toss anything in taht you send me in there for general access.
Please also send information about the source if, & I'll put in some words
to give proper credit & hopefully appease potential copyright litigators.

Send the files to nickf@co.wayne.in.us -I can handle any format, but of
course JPG would be simplest. If you want to see what's in there now, the
URL is www.infocom.com/~nickf

-NickF

___________________________________________________________________
Nick Fankhauser      | http://www.co.wayne.in.us/wayneco
nickf@co.wayne.in.us | http://www.infocom.com/~nickf

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Mar 1998 11:51:45 -0500
From: Matt Nelson <nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu>
Subject: temp sensor

I just replaced the ether filled(non functioning) temp sensor on my '65
s2a 88 with the electronic unit out of a '70 s2a... unfortunately that
one doesn't appear to work either. I had to totally guess at the wiring
however, so could someone tell me how it is oproperly wired and perhaps
suggest a testing method for both the sending unit and guage? Thanks!

Matthew Nelson

------------------------------

From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Subject: Re: A chat about seats
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 08:49:57 -0800

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 17:55:27 +0300 (EET)
From: Semih Bingol <semih@leo.ee.hun.edu.tr>
Subject: A chat about seats, etc. (long)

>Basically, I plan to have a custom built head support that will have
a steel bar protruding down into the backrest. Two holes will be drilled
on the back of the backrest and the bar, with mating nuts welded onto
it,
will be bolted into place. Something like a barber's seat (don't know
whether barber seats are all alike in the world however).  

>Question is, has anybody seen something like this done? If not,
do you find the method feasible? If not, can you suggest a solution
that satisfies the two constraints? (original seats + easily removable
and remountable head supports)

To begin with, it's not a good idea to remove the bulkhead that runs
across an 88 behind the front seats as the body gets a lot of its
rigidity from that item.  The fact that the previous owner left the top
rail in place is better than nothing, but to retain the full strength of
the body, the bulkhead needs to be there; that's why Rover put it in in
the first place.  While it may not make much difference in on-road
driving, off road driving subjects the body to a lot of stresses and the
bulkhead is vital to retain the integrity of the structure.  And if you
roll over, not having a bulkhead eliminates a great deal of the shear
strength.  I have a friend who rolled an 88 in which he'd removed the
bulkhead.  The body collapesed sideways and while he was not injured,
the body was pretty much totalled.  The current Defender has a much
weaker body than the Series Land Rovers, and the elimination of much of
the Series' bracing, heavy body caps, split windshield, etc. is why.

There are seat manufcturers in the UK that make replacement seats that
incorporate a headrest while retaining the ability to be unbolted like
the original seats.  These companies advertise in Land Rover Owner
International magazine.  However, if you want to retain the original
seats but still have a headrest, another solution is to install a dog
guard (also available from the UK) and mount headrests to it.  Of
course, this restricts access to the rear compartment from the front
which may not suit your needs.

But if it was my vehicle, I'd get that bulkhead back in there pronto,
especially if you are worried about safety in an accident.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Air Filter clogged?
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 98 11:04:13 -0600
From: asanna <asanna@sacofoods.com>

>I tune by setting the timing
>to the highest vacuum I can get which is 21" of Hg.

How do you do this?

Tony

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Avenue
Middleton, Wisconsin  53562  USA

asanna@sacofoods.com

1-800-373-7226
(608) 238-9101

------------------------------

From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Subject: Re: Tanks alot
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 09:03:55 -0800

Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 17:23:56 -0500
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Subject: Tanks alot

Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> wrote:

>>Or buy a new tank, whop it on, and take 18 months to three years to
get
>>back to step one.

>Yup.  Bought a new one...I was going to do it up *right*.  Five coats
of
Rusoleum, three coats undercoat, plus I used this two-part sealer on the
inards.  Result: three years. Damn.

If what you are saying is that you are only getting three years out of a
gas tank, you're doing something wrong.  I bought my Series III new in
1973 in Hawaii (salt air)  where it was used every day until 1979 when I
moved to Seattle (and continued to use it every day until 1983).  I took
it on numerous trips to the Yukon, British Columbia, and Montana, drove
it in mud, snow, and of course it rains constantly here in the Pacific
Northwest (remember that all you out-of-staters).  The first gas tank
finally developed some rust holes in 1985, 12 years after I bought the
vehicle.  I got another two years of life out of the original tank by
using an aircraft sloshing compound in it, but then I replaced the tank
in 1988.  Six years and a lot of mud and snow and wet roads later the
replacement tank is still in excellent condition.  So if you're only
getting three years out of a tank, you're either buying very poorly made
tanks or you're driving on a beach a lot.  Or I misinterpreted your
post...

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Subject: Re: Air filter clogged?
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 09:09:20 -0800

Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 22:51:26 -0800
From: Dave Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Air Filter clogged?

>I have driving my 69 88 IIA for the past month with no air filter
canister and it goes like a new vehicle.  I put the filter back on early
this week and it doesn't have the "poop" it had.  Do those old oil bath
type filters get clogged up and have to be bathed or should I retune it
with the air filter attached.  I put a diesel crank in my petrol engine
so the timing marks mean nothing, therefore I tune by setting the timing
to the highest vacuum I can get which is 21" of Hg.  That is what the
book says is new engine specs.  At this vacuum, it runs great, starts
great and has lots of power.  It also has to be filterless to get it.
Any suggestions?

It is important that the oil level in the air filter be NO HIGHER than
the mark on the inside of the base.  I made the mistake of putting in
just a tiny bit too much oil one, less than a 1/2 inch above the mark,
and my fuel consumption went up dramatically and the performance went
down.  After checking everything obvious, I looked at the oil cleaner,
noticed the level was just a wee high, and took some oil out.  Fuel
consumption and performance were immediately back to normal.  Can't say
that this is your problem, but it's worth checking.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 05 Mar 98 12:45:44 EST
Subject: bulkhead behind the seats (dinner?)

>To begin with, it's not a good idea to remove the bulkhead that runs 
>across an 88 behind the front seats as the body gets a lot of its 
>rigidity from that item.

agreed

>  The current Defender has a much weaker body than the Series Land 
>Rovers, and the elimination of much of the Series' bracing,

not agreed at all. There is a section of the rollbar that is there in 
place of the bulkhead, which may actually be stronger than the original 
item. UK defenders still have the bulkhead.

>> heavy body caps, split windshield, etc. is why.

 Are the new body caps thinner steel? I thgought they were the same, just not 
galvanised. Split windsheild I sort of doubt does very much for body strength, 
although I uderstand they are more affected by flexing than the split kind, 
simply because of the fact that they are NOT split. Two pieces of glass can 
move alot more than one. I have heard of people galvanising defender body caps, 
I certailny would/will...
It does seem that the aluminum on the new trucks is not up to the same standard 
as the old stuff.

>But if it was my vehicle, I'd get that bulkhead back in there pronto, 
>especially if you are worried about safety in an accident.

or make up some sort of roll bar type thing. Shouldn't be too hard with some 
welding and tube forming devices. 

------------------------------

Date: 5 Mar 1998 13:21:27 -0400
From: "LT J Jackson" <lt_j_jackson@unixlink.uscga.edu>
Subject: Leave of absence

I'll be unsubscribing for 10 or 11 days while I help a friend sail his 35'
boat from Florida to Connecticut.  Not the best time of year for such a trip,
so if I don't sign back on by the 18th or so, and you need a SIII with a new
frame, give my wife a call.  For that matter, if you also need a wife, a
package deal could probably be arranged (though her frame is a bit
older...;-).

Rgds,

Jeff Jackson
73 SIII 88

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Mar 1998 08:29:21 -1000
From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Subject: Re: Bulkhead to Windshield rubber

Before the driveway was poured, I hauled most of the materials for my house
up the steep hill to the building site with my 88.  Removed the windshield
and carried lumber longitudinally over the passenger side, sizes up to
4x12x20'.  It ruined the windshield gasket, which was attached to the
bulkhead, however.  If you anticipate using your truck as this type of
mule, attach the gasket to the windshield.
>As you can probably guess, I'm bolting back on the windshield frame.
>Does the rubber seal between the bulkhead & windshield glue on to the
>bulkhead top or windshield bottom?
>Paul in Victoria

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Mar 1998 13:46:26 -0500
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Subject: April 30th

This is for ROAV members, those in the Richmond area as well as those on
the "mostly metro" list.  To celebrate the actual 50th, those in the
Hampton Roads area will be getting together at Reggie's at the Waterside on
Thursday evening, the 30th of April.  I'd suggest similar gatherings in
Richmond (Fox and Hounds pub???) and the DC area.  I'll post 'em in the
next newsletter which is in the works right now.  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 10:39:46 -0800 (PST)
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: Air filter clogged?

        Some of you may remember that I tested Series air filtesr and carbs
on a flow bench. I may have said this aleady (if I did, forgive the
redundance), but I can verify objectively what Marin just said about oil
level effecting flow. The aiflow potential of the unit increased with lower
oil levels. As memory serves, there was a 40cfm differnce between empty and
full (full being about 180cfm). No doubt filtering efficiency will be
negatively effected by the lower oil levels.
        I have always found a noticable seat-o-the-pants performance
increase by changing filters to a paper or oiled cotton gauze. I may have
the chance to prove it on a dyno in a year or so. With all the test data I
scrounged up, I still feel confident that either of these two alternatives
offer superior filtering to the oil bath. No, I do not want to start the
debate about  K&Ns again, but it reminds me that I am awaiting soem test
data for a test that was done recently that may clear it up a little
better.

        Jim Allen

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 05 Mar 98 13:36:25 EST
Subject: Re: Leave of absence

>> if you also need a wife, a package deal could probably be arranged (though 
>>her frame is a bit older...;-).

well, as long as the body's kept its shape...and no ones removed the rear 
bulkhead...

Perverts! I was talking about the truck...

later

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@worldnet.att.net
Date: Thu, 05 Mar 1998 13:59:20 -0800
Subject: Re: Bulkhead to Windshield rubber

When I stripped my series lll the rubber was fixed to the bulkhead..
I Had asked R/N about this and they advised to seal the gasket to the
windscreen frame 
I guess its a toss up 
Rgds
Steve Bradke  72 series lll 88 (for sale)
WA2GMC        68 series lla 88 
              96 Discovery

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 13:11:10 -0600
From: mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marcus Tooze)
Subject: Re: Leave of absence

> For that matter, if you also need a wife, a
> package deal could probably be arranged (though her frame is a bit
> older...;-).

Jeff,

As long as she doesn't have the 1 ton chassis, I'm for it...

;)

Marcus

------------------------------

From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: To glue or NOT
Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 11:40:09 -0800

I bought my Land Rover with 32,000 original miles on it and have had the
pleasure of seeing more than a few restored LR's

The rubber is not glued to anything, nor is it supposed to be, nor was it
from the factory.
My 2 bits worth

Cheers
David
Stay at Home Father
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
Ural Motorcycle - S/V KALAKALA, Ingrid 38, ketch

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 14:36:17 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Bulkhead to Windshield rubber answer...

Long gone are the days when such a simple question could be replied to 
with a simple answer. Everything seems to have become more complex , 
instead of simpler as man progresses into the next century. It used to be 
that you could ask just about anyone such a question, (excuse me sir, on 
a Land Rover, does the rubber seal between the bulkhead & windshield glue 
on to the bulkhead top or windshield bottom? Oh, and do you have the 
time, yes, thank you ). But nowadays, you have to seek out some kind of 
specialist who knows these things due to the fact that that is all they 
deal with; a windshield man. Those of us on this list ask such questions 
now of each other, all of us groping in the dark for unseen and elusive 
answers to the questions that have long since been asked and answered by 
a different, bygone generation, even a different culture on the far side 
of the world. Complexity has been added to the simplicity, via electronic 
mail, the internet and expansion of the global military-industrial 
complex (for more on this see T. Kosinsky's treatise on the expansion of 
the power base of technological interests ). What would appear to be a 
mere case of Chicken vis-a-vis The Egg can now be construed an electronic 
call for help from a stranded soul, lost in the clamoring cacaphony of 
billions of electrons flying through the great expanse of global 
interconnectivity, hoping for an echoing cry of sense in a senseless 
world, a faceless, soulless voice extracted from its body and existant 
only as tiny flecks of light reflecting on a glass.

Um, what was the question....?

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: caloccia@senie.com
Date: 5 Mar 1998 20:50:31 -0000
Subject: those   ugly multipart alternative posts....

Should now drop off the face of the earth, the text/plain bits will be
printed and the rest will be dropped...

(sorry if you posted and got an error from the list in the last couple
hours, I was working with the live copies of the software...)

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 05 Mar 98 14:13:22 MST
Subject: Carrying on...

From: <debrown@srp.gov>
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
                                    Pers. E-mail: rovernut@hotmail.com
In response to John Dillingham's inquiry for Ron to buy a Series LR and
drive it to him, Ron writes:

She says I have to get rid of some of my other unused hobby stuff e.g., my
scuba gear, my model planes, model helicopters, model boats, the Hillman
Gazelles et al.

Hmm, It'd be a wet old drive - it's in Oz. You'd need a bloody long snorkel
8-)

Well Ron, maybe you could get rid of the scuba gear at the same time? ;-)

Dave Brown

 Never give up your life for          #=======#         _____l___
 anything that death can take away.   |__|__|__\___    //__|__|__\___
                        -anonymous    | _|  |   |_ |}  \__ - ____ - _|}
                                      "(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 16:50:29 -0500
From: Michael_Lenaghan@cayennesoft.com (Michael Lenaghan)
Subject: Re[2]: Air filter clogged?

     Jim Allen wrote:
     
     I have always found a noticable seat-o-the-pants performance
     increase by changing filters to a paper or oiled cotton gauze. I may 
     have the chance to prove it on a dyno in a year or so. With all the 
  test data I scrounged up, I still feel confident that either of these two 
  alternatives offer superior filtering to the oil bath.
  
  Is there a filter, preferably k&N, that can be fitted inside the existing 
  canister instead of using the oil bath arrangement? Or is adding a different 
  bolt filter to the carb the only option?
  
  Thanks
  
  Mike
  

------------------------------

From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Subject: Out of the wilderness, a prophet speaks
Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 13:51:34 -0800

No kidding, GOD what I would give for the "good old days" when I could walk
to the corner service station and talk to Max.  There was a mechanic and a
hoist and tools and 5,000 fan belts on the wall.  NO service station should
have a microwave oven, ding-dongs, nachos and all the rest of that
crap....pop is ok, so are chips.
Thoughts from the past.
It still doesn't require glue.
Bill, if you are ever out in Seattle, I'll take you out sailing.  Anyone who
can write like that.....but will the masses receive the tablets?

Cheers
David
Stay at Home Father
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
Ural Motorcycle - S/V KALAKALA, Ingrid 38, ketch

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 17:08:32 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: Windscreen gasket

Dear all,
Windscreen gaskets, both upper and lower didn't use any sealer or silicone
stuff to secure them to either part, just pressure from the other parts
holds them in place and seals nicely.
Have a great day all.

From: Mike Smith,  EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Mar 1998 23:12:49 +0100
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Bulkhead to Windshield rubber

If your rubber needs glue, its probably loose enough to leak anyway -
I'd suggest a thin layer of silicone mastic on each side, to keep
moisture out. The underneath is the most important, as the top ledge of
the firewall rusts easily.

Adrian Redmond

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Mar 1998 23:16:31 +0100
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: List content

Dear Bill,

I know you love rovers and rovering, but how do you find the time, the
energy, and the patience? (seems very un-north-american to me!) (no not
a set up for a flame war- just kiddin!)

Thanks Bill, your efforts are appreciated. One day, the beer is on me.
(Un til then, it appears that the spam is on you, but the major seems to
be dealing with it)

:-)

Adrian Redmond

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------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: Windscreen gasket
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 14:18:28 -0800

Mike Says:
Dear all,
Windscreen gaskets, both upper and lower didn't use any sealer or
silicone
stuff to secure them to either part, just pressure from the other parts
holds them in place and seals nicely.
Have a great day all.

From: Mike Smith,  EAST COAST ROVER CO.

O.K. that's fine when the windshield is up, but what happens if I fold
the windshield down?  Do I chuck the rubber gasket in the toolbox for
safe keeping??

Paul

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Mar 1998 18:36:37 -0400
From: Doug and Kristy <dloader@nbnet.nb.ca>
Subject: Volvo Seats

Will any old Volvo seat fit in series vehicle (IIA 109" SW) or only ones
from specific models.
Any welding required or do you just drill new holes. And does the entire
sliding mechanism come with the seat or does it sit on the old slider?

Thanks in advance.

Doug Loader

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 17:33:31 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: RE: Windscreen gasket

>O.K. that's fine when the windshield is up, but what happens if I fold
>the windshield down?  Do I chuck the rubber gasket in the toolbox for
>safe keeping??

Actually they make a really attractive neck tie! ;-)

The factory way of the old Series truck was no goop, but if you need goop
to hold it in place or seal, go for it. It can't hurt anything. :-)

Have a great day!

From: Mike Smith,  EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Mar 1998 23:36:48 +0100
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: A Land rover treasure trove

I know I have waxed lyrical about my Rover mechanic before, and about
his veritable treasure of spares, but today I had an eye-opener which I
can't resist sharing with you all.

As you have read, my wife Hanne rolled the 88 a couple of weeks ago, so
I'm on the lookout for a firewall, a fender, (see i didn't say WING!)
and a door. I paid my mechanic Marius a visit.

"I'm to busy to hunt for bits in the graveyard" he says "here's the
keys, go and root around for yourself"

It was a childs dream - two hours alone in a maze of old farm buildings,
which have always been propped full of bits, but which, in the last
year, have been tidied and sorted according to some logic. About a year
ago, he was tired of the messy appearance of his yard, which was
littered with countless (over 30) old SII' SIIA, SIII and RR, as well as
a few D90's, so he employed a guy to work full time to dismantle these
rusty and wrecked hulks, and put the stores in order - the result is
amazing.

How many engines do you want? 1,? 10? 30? what about cc? 2,25? 2.5? V8?
How about a shelf full of fenders, or front windscreens, rear axles,
generators, series 1 breakfasts? bulkheads? Steering wheels, Rad grills?
whatever. He's got the lot.

His devotion to the marque will pay off one day, he is now one of the
few remaining true LR workshops in Denmark. Sure there are plenty of
operations who are willing to display the logo and sell a Disco to an
accountant or and estate agent, but few who can be bothered (let alone
interested) in the culture and comradeship of those customers who are
still driving the car they bought from him in 1984 and 1985 - and are
satisfied with it.

Seeing his stores confirms my belief that, as long as I want to drive a
rover, the parts problem doesn't exist.

I was hunting for a firewall, and I found a perfect example. A SIII 88",
same year as mine, one of the 7 Ixcelanders imported into Denmark, of
which mine is also one, which has had frontal surgery with some imovable
object, but which has a prefect, clean, rust and crud free firewall -
all that is needed is a days work, and the job is done.

It's always easy to knock the small garage, whose owner does not have
the great capital wealth of the manufacturer, but who has to scrape and
save to keep in business. It's easy to understand why so many have gone
over to selling jap-crap, knowing that the product will last a few
months beyond the final payments, after which time the customer will be
back for a new flavour-of-the-month monocoque creation.

I think that our applause and respect should go out to all those
mechanics and workshops, for whom the dedication and love of the rover
are just as important as the latest model.

Given the long veiw, I am sure they win - I have bought nearly all my
spares from this one guy, for over 14 years. OK, he's cheap, but the
profit margin on an axle from a wreck is good, and the value of a loyal
customer who spends at least as much each year for spares and workshop
services, as the depreciation/mortgage on a new wagon (where the profit
margin is considerably less) seems to count for something.

These guys respect the past and think of the future, and they are
getting squeezed by business cultures which cant see beyond the next
quarter's accounts.

I know too, that I am lucky to live in close proximity to this man. In
the time which most of you must use to trace, find out how to
move/import/collect a spare part, I could build several rovers up from
oe source, only 15 minutes from my home.

So if anyone out there is missing the impossible part - this guy could
be worth a try.

Team Bertelsen (Marius, Jan, Per, Ole)
+45 86 95 42 07 or +45 86 95 42 55

Maybe Bill's pages should/could/would have a list of "recommendables"
from whom we could all benefit when searching for that silly part which
keeps our hulk off the road?

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
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Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Mar 1998 23:43:23 +0100
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Bulkhead to Windshield rubber answer...

Ahh! That's what the ancient oriental art of Ren-Ching is about - we
call it waxing lyrical on this side of the pond.

Nice one Bill!

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
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Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Mar 1998 23:46:01 +0100
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Bulkhead to Windshield rubber

Ahh Mike!
If the pressure from the joint kept the rubber tight, the top of the
firewall wouln't hold water and then rust, would it? I have never seen
an older Series ehicle which wasn't hiding a rusty sin under thjis
rubber, which I take as evidence that the water is getting in? But OK.

:-)

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 16:51:30 -0600 (CST)
From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Subject: RE: Windscreen gasket

is the major having problems -- i keep getting messages
about windshield gaskets...

ray harder

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Mar 1998 23:59:40 +0100
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Major going cucumber?

It would appear that the major has gone doo-lally - I keep getting
messages with the link reply to @playground.sun.com - the lro bit has
dissappeared!

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
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telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
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---------------------------------------------------
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---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: Bulkhead to Windshield rubber
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 15:04:19 -0800

Ahh, now we find the secret!

My rubber was glued down (to which side, I still can't remember) and
when removed many months ago, low and behold: the bulkhead was rust
free!  At least at the top...

Glue is the secret.

Paul.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Mar 1998 18:36:23 -0500
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: Cranks

Dave  Place writes     I put a diesel crank in my petrol engine
so the timing marks mean nothing, therefore I tune by setting the timing
to the highest vacuum I can get which is 21" of Hg. 

 The petrol and diesel cranks are dimensionally  interchangeable, changing
the crank should not affect the timing in any way. Have you also used the
diesel flywheel or front pulley ( depending upon the age of your vehicle )
In any event it would have been easy to transfer the timing marks whilst the
motor was dismantled.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: CAPT PAYNE <CAPTPAYNE@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 20:02:46 EST
Subject: Re: Fuel tanks

My 94D90 (with 15.6 gallon tank) will go about 245 miles with a combination of
city and highway miles.  This is as far as I dare go without carrying a jerry
can.  I fill up the tank and most of the neck to get a usable capacity of
about 14.5 gallons.  Of course I,m basing the range of the vehicle on
information provided by my Defender's speedometer, so I don't  really know
how far I've gone.
Don Payne
94D90 #1331

------------------------------

From: RoverNut <RoverNut@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 20:58:51 EST
Subject: Landy for parts!

1973 seriesIII.
Pastel green, Limestone (non-tropical) top.

Has been sitting idle, rotting slowly for 4 years. Started up and drove back
then, but hasn't been fired up since, so the engine, tranny, etc need TLC
before any attempts. 
Frame is COMPLETELY ROTTED, read: not a chance of repairing it. So rusted it
is pinching the wheels and will not roll.
Body panels are in really good shape. Bulkhead questionable. Diffs and
drivetrain should be OK. Interior trim in very usable shape. Tires are a joke.
Has original Fairey FWH.

Here's the deal: I'll part it out, one wing here, a driveshaft there, or I'll
sell the whole enchilada for $1000. It's located in NC, near Durham. Please E-
mail me DIRECTLY; responses to the list take far too long to get to me.

Thanks,
Alex

------------------------------

From: lndrvr@ldd.net (BRIAN WILLOUGHBY)
Subject: Series II Turn Signal Wiring Question
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 20:12:37 -0600

I have a problem.  My 1960 is an American-spec L-R which means that it was
outfitted with turn signals (I believe that in many other markets, the
signal lamps were not required.)  Anyhow, the problem is that no wiring
diagram illustrates the wiring from the stalk (on the steering column) to
the lamps in both front and back.  I can find them on later diagrams,
though not for a Series II with positive earth wiring.  My new wiring loom
does not appear to be set up for them either unless I am reading the
colour-coding incorrectly.  Any advice, experiences or knowledge would be
most appreciated.  Basically, I need to know how they were wired and where,
etc.  Remember, this is a positive earth machine so going to the later
diagrams for negative earth vehicles may provide some ideas though will not
match.  Also, am I just looking essentially at running another set of wires
through the frame?  Thanks, Brian.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 20:35:04 -0600
From: mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marcus Tooze)
Subject: Re: Series II Turn Signal Wiring Question

> I have a problem.  My 1960 is an American-spec L-R which means that it was
> outfitted with turn signals (I believe that in many other markets, the
> signal lamps were not required.)  Anyhow, the problem is that no wiring
> diagram illustrates the wiring from the stalk (on the steering column) to
> the lamps in both front and back.  I can find them on later diagrams,
> though not for a Series II with positive earth wiring.  My new wiring loom
> does not appear to be set up for them either unless I am reading the
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> diagrams for negative earth vehicles may provide some ideas though will not
> match.

Pretty simple. Power goes from the fuse box (or any ign. hot source)
 to a flasher unit behind the dash
panel then from flasher to the turn switch. Two wires come from the switch
to either side of the truck. With the switch in the center, nothing is grounded
(or positived if you want to look at it that way). Switching the switch
allows current to flow thru the flasher thru the switch to the lamps. The
flasher takes care of the flashing aspect. There is an extra wire of the flsaher
that goes to the signal light on the switch.

                          
                                 ------------------ left flashers -ve
+ve ------- flasher ------- switch ---
				 ------------------ right flashers -ve

Just swap the -ve and +ve if you have a +ve earth vehicle.

> Also, am I just looking essentially at running another set of wires
> through the frame?  Thanks, Brian.
> signal lamps were not required.)  Anyhow, the problem is that no wiring

Nah. I urge you to find what the problem is before running wire willy nilly.
What is the problem? No flashers at all, or just do they come on and not flash?

Marcus

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Mar 1998 20:47:08 -0800
From: Dave Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Help Help

I found my problem as soon as I took the distributor cap off.  My points
block melted.
The red plastic that holds the points got so hot it turned into a molten
mass and the points of
course just went so far out the vehicle wouldn't run.  I am sure it is
because the coil is not working correctly so I want to replace it.  Does
anyone know a generic coil ref. number like Canadian Tire or Canadian
NAPA number for that part.  I also need to know what other British
vehicles take the 45D4 Distributor so I can get parts when Land Rover
isn't listed.  Mark Perry is trying to find the old box he bought his in
so I can try to get one locally but just in case he can't find it I want
to get my machine running by Saturday at the latest.  I think I am using
an old GM coil that required an external resistor and Land Rovers need
the internal.  What other vehicles would have used the internal kind?
Thanks
Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 22:02:58 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Subject: Re: Help Help

On Thu, 5 Mar 1998, Dave Place wrote:

> I found my problem as soon as I took the distributor cap off.  My points
> block melted.
> The red plastic that holds the points got so hot it turned into a molten
> mass and the points of

I hate it when this happens.  The 45D4 was used in a fair number of 4
cylinder british cars in the 70's.  The Mini from 74 (5?) on, not sure
about others.   Take your old ones with you and look before you buy.  The
lucas coil has an internal resistor.  I don't know a cross, but they
shouldn't be hard to come up with.  It is fairly low powered though, to
keep from burning points.  

David

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 20:59:45 -0600
From: mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marcus Tooze)
Subject: Re: Help Help

I also need to know what other British
> vehicles take the 45D4 Distributor so I can get parts when Land Rover
> isn't listed.  Mark Perry is trying to find the old box he bought his in
> so I can try to get one locally but just in case he can't find it I want
> to get my machine running by Saturday at the latest.  I think I am using
> an old GM coil that required an external resistor and Land Rovers need
> the internal.  What other vehicles would have used the internal kind?

(1) Nearly every british car uses the 45D or the 25D (Midgets, MGBs, TRs).
I have one in my TVR.

(2) Change the condenser too. 

(3) The new lucas sport coils are internal. You have to be a bit careful,
BL etc switched back and forth between external/internal thru the model
years of many cars....so you can't really be sure unless the coil is new.

Marcus

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 21:02:12 -0600
From: mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marcus Tooze)
Subject: Re: Help Help

> > I found my problem as soon as I took the distributor cap off.  My points
> > block melted.
> > The red plastic that holds the points got so hot it turned into a molten
> > mass and the points of
> I hate it when this happens.  The 45D4 was used in a fair number of 4
> cylinder british cars in the 70's.  The Mini from 74 (5?) on, not sure
> about others.   Take your old ones with you and look before you buy.  The
> lucas coil has an internal resistor. 
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

some lucas coils use external resistors, some internal.....as i said before,
beware if you are yanking them out of a box 'o' parts. Better to spend
the $25 and buy a new one that you *know* is internal.

M

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 22:14:13 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Subject: Re: Help Help

On Thu, 5 Mar 1998, Marcus Tooze wrote:

> > > I found my problem as soon as I took the distributor cap off.  My points
> > > block melted.
> 	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 8 lines)]
> > about others.   Take your old ones with you and look before you buy.  The
> > lucas coil has an internal resistor. 
> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> some lucas coils use external resistors, some internal.....as i said before,
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> beware if you are yanking them out of a box 'o' parts. Better to spend
> the $25 and buy a new one that you *know* is internal.

Sorry I wasn't clear.  The lucas coil, used in Series Land-Rovers, is
internally regulated.  And I thought the Lucas sports coil had no
resistor, thus its higher output.

David

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 22:27:17 EST
Subject: Re: temp sensor

In a message dated 98-03-05 11:53:41 EST, you write:

<<  I had to totally guess at the wiring
 however, so could someone tell me how it is oproperly wired and perhaps
 suggest a testing method for both the sending unit and guage? Thanks!
  >>

Hi Matt,

Luckily this is not too difficult.  Start off with the key in the on position
but the engine off.  Look at the temp gauge. Hi? Lo?

1.If Hi:
A.  Disconnect the wire to the temperature sensor sending unit.  What does the
guage do Hi? Lo?

       If Hi:  Problem in the gauge or wire to the gauge (the item is
grounding out somewhere)

      If Lo: Problem is in the sending unit.  Replace.

2. If Lo:
A. Disconnect the wire to the temperature sensor sending unit.  Touch it to
the block or other good ground.  It should go to the Hi end.  If not, the wire
is broken somewhere along the line or the gauge is broken.

B. If the gauge starts low with the key in the on position, and goes to hi
when touched to ground AND it is not registering correctly in normal running
conditions, the sending unit is bad.

Wiring:  The wire runs from the sending unit along the right side of the
engine where it joins the main harness and connects to the back of the gauge.
A voltage stabilizer (not the regulator) behind the dashpanel also sends a
wire to the gauge.  The voltage stabilizer sends current to the gauge which
then goes to ground through the temperature sending unit which gives variable
resistance depending on temperature of the coolant.

If you have more questions, email me direct.

Nate

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 22:23:24 -0600 (CST)
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@ricochet.net>
Subject: Re: A chat about seats (and NEA comment)

At 02:40 PM 3/4/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Sleeping on seats--get whatever seats you want--or that your girlfriend
>will tolerate (maybe high back Trakkers?)--and use a Thermarest pad to
>sleep on. Minimal space, maximum comfort. A wee bit pricey perhaps, but I
>wouldn't trade mine for anything...well, almost anything,

Thermarests are good, but even a cheap airmattress would be good too.  A
12v air pump will inflate it quickly.  

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
roger@sinasohn.com                           that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                       http://www.sinasohn.com/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 13:27:29 +0300 (EET)
From: Semih Bingol <semih@leo.ee.hun.edu.tr>
Subject: Re: Re: A chat about seats

Brilliant idea Con. A friend of mine has a plywood fastened to the window
sills that extends to the front over the rear bulkhead. But I didn't like
that very much cause it's too high. I had never thought of placing it
over the wheel's arch however. I took some measurements yesterday and
two pieces of plywood fastened with center hinges will be perfect. If
folded, I can store it in the place where the bulkhead used to be.
Uncle Roger's idea for headrests is also good for us lazy campers but
I'm worried about creating one more noise source unless the tubes give
a very tight fit. 

As for the bulkhead, I think Marin is right, too. I can have a rollcage
fitted for safety in case of a rollover. But this will not help 
counteract the torsional forces that the body is subjected to off the 
road. Will this result in metal fatigue somewhere in the long run?
  
Semih Bingol
74 SIII 2.25 petrol

------------------------------

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