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Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 22:07:41 -0800 (PST)
From: Majordomo Admin <caloccia>
Subject: non-land-rover-content re: urban legend

In case any of you were wondering, posting such garbage to the list
does earn you the equivalent of Monopoly's "GO TO JAIL" chance card,
which is to say, you get invited to unsubscribe from the lists, and
it is an invitation which you can't refuse.

Just another friendly reminder to keep the list ON TRACK...

Don't send your jokes here,
Don't send your PC virus mail here,
Don't send your Darwin Awards here. 

	If folks want such stuff, they'll find it, but none of those
	are why folks subscribe here.

If it doesn't include Land Rovers, you'd better think twice, especially
if it isn't in keeping with the topic of the list.

Cheers,
 -Bill

------------------------------

From: "Andy Grafton" <brantxit@iafrica.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 14:58:52 +0000
Subject: Testing

Just a test.  Something is very strange.
Thanks,
Andy
brantxit@iafrica.com

------------------------------

From: GElam30092 <GElam30092@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 08:12:13 EST
Subject: SII top on a SIII?

I think this has been covered before but can't remember the outcome....

Will a hardtop from a '63 IIA 88" fit an early Series III?  It would make life
easier if they will interchange....

(A direct response as well one to the list is appreciated.  I'm in Sao Paulo
Brazil and sometimes AOL doesn't work well even with the local access.)

Thanks...
Gerry

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 08:21:09 EST
Subject: Re: SII top on a SIII?

In a message dated 3/3/98 8:16:28 AM Eastern Standard Time, GElam30092@aol.com
writes:

<< Will a hardtop from a '63 IIA 88" fit an early Series III?  It would make
life
 easier if they will interchange....
 
 (A direct response as well one to the list is appreciated.  I'm in Sao Paulo
 Brazil and sometimes AOL doesn't work well even with the local access.) >>

Yes, it will work.  Depending on the type of latch on the rear door (anti-
burst or not), you  may have to change catches for the door. 

Nate

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 09:36:31 EST
Subject: Re:  Testing

In a message dated 3/3/98 7:57:46 AM, you wrote:

>Just a test.  Something is very strange.

Good, that means things are normal on Earth.

pat
93  110

ps: Saw a funny (to my non-pc mind) bumper sticker: *Visualize: "Hippies
bathing"* I guess it is a parody of the stickers on VW busses...
http://www.nurwibsco.com/stickers.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 10:41:15 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Testing

SPYDERS wrote:
 

> ps: Saw a funny (to my non-pc mind) bumper sticker: *Visualize: "Hippies
> bathing"* I guess it is a parody of the stickers on VW busses...

I can still see it now. Strawbery Fields Festival. Mosport. Ontario. Late 
60's. My mind wasn't on Land Rovin'. ;-)

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 16:49:10 +0200
From: wrm@ccii.co.za (Wouter de Waal)
Subject: Re: Tell us your Name.

>> So, it looks as if I'll make the 50th anniversary tour (leaving next week
>Ahh! But will you make it BACK?

Thanks Paul. Thanks a lot. Yes, I will make it back. I'm taking an A-frame.
Looks like I'll get some really good mileage :-)

W

------------------------------

From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 10:11:20 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Name that Land Rover

Lurch

So named in recognition of the smooth ride.
Lurch is a 1965 RHD Land Rover 109 Dormobile

Used to have a 1966 109 Regular named Dr. Leakey in honor of the Keynyan
anthropologist (and the spots on my driveway).  Sold it a long time ago.

Paul Donohue
Denver

------------------------------

From: Rob Modica <rmodica@east.pima.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 08:16:39 -0700

What is your name?

My 1960 109 Station Wagon is called the "Tortuga"  Spanish for tortoise --  
because it lives in the desert (Tucson Arizona) it's brown, and it's slow.

Rob Modica

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 15:25:39 +0000
Subject: names

I hope someone's compiling all these names. Perhaps make a WWW page with
active links to the WWW pages of the vehicles and/or owners.

Mine was called "Alice" after the tank in "Kelly's Heroes". I've since gone
off the name, so its nameless.

Richard  (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 10:43:19 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: To all...

Might I add to Bill C.'s post that he's an all around good guy. Thanks 
again Bill for a thankless job well done.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: philippe.carchon@rug.ac.be
Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 16:42:44 +0100
Subject: speedometer

The speedometer on my series LR is acting strange. It does registrate the 
number of km (miles), although not enough (approx. 85 in stead of 100), the 
needle only starts to move when i'm driving more than 60 km/h and shows 35 
km/h when standstill. It never happened before. Is it related to the speedo 
itself or only the speedo-cable ? 

Philippe Carchon
Ghent, Belgium
'81 lightweight ffr

------------------------------

From: MurphyK1@psgvl.ps.ge.com
Subject: RE: names
Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 10:46:10 -0500 

	Richard Marsden wrote:
> I hope someone's compiling all these names. Perhaps make a WWW page with
> active links to the WWW pages of the vehicles and/or owners.
> Mine was called "Alice" after the tank in "Kelly's Heroes". I've since
> gone off the name, so its nameless.

As for a WWW page with links, everytime someone puts their own homepage in
their email, I have added it to my list of links.  Sorry, no LR names
though.(http://members.carol.net/murphyk/index/rover.html)

Speaking of which, my '67 IIA 88" is currently named "Nancy" after my
mother-in-law (long story).  It's also completely stripped out, so it may
receive a new name when complete.  I think my mother-in-law would like that.

Kevin
Greenville, SC

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 09:50:57 -0600
From: "Herman L. Stude" <hermans@krts.com>
Subject: Re: To all...

Adams, Bill wrote:
> Might I add to Bill C.'s post that he's an all around good guy. Thanks
> again Bill for a thankless job well done.

Ditto, this is a fantastic resource and have learned a great deal in my
two years subscribed.

Herman

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 10:10:40 -0600
From: "Herman L. Stude" <hermans@krts.com>
Subject: Re: tire size equivalence

Michael Fredette wrote:
> Hi kids,
>     Can anyone give the metric size for a 900-16 tire.  I'd like to > replace
> them with Mich XCL's, but they are impossible to find in this
> 900x16 size, or any size for that matter here in Oregon. Anyone
> got a source? 

Spoke with Greg @ Safari Gard sometime back and he had 900x16 in the
michelin XZL.  Just a thought...

------------------------------

From: Michael Fredette <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>
Subject: Re: tire size equivalence
Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 08:27:47 -0800 (PST)

 
 Michael Fredette wrote:
 Hi kids,
     Can anyone give the metric size for a 900-16 tire.  I'd like to > replace
 	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 7 lines)]
 900x16 size, or any size for that matter here in Oregon. Anyone
 got a source? 
 
 Spoke with Greg @ Safari Gard sometime back and he had 900x16 in the
 michelin XZL.  Just a thought...
 
Yah, but he wants $285 bucks a throw, total $1140 for 4 = another $100+
for shipping. You'd think they were gold belted instead of steel belted
at that price. Gotta be somethin a bit less spendy out there. Thanks though.
Still looking for a metric size also, or an inch size like 31x10.50/15 for
the 900x16.

Rgds
Mike
101FC

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 12:37:41 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: speedometer

philippe.carchon@rug.ac.be wrote:
> The speedometer on my series LR is acting strange. It does registrate the
> number of km (miles), although not enough (approx. 85 in stead of 100), the
> needle only starts to move when i'm driving more than 60 km/h and shows 35
> km/h when standstill. It never happened before. Is it related to the speedo
> itself or only the speedo-cable ?
> Philippe Carchon
> Ghent, Belgium
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Ghent, Belgium
> '81 lightweight 

I am afraid that your speedo is dieing. The cable and any other problem
will not prevent it from returning to zero when you stop,.
      John and Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 12:41:45 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: tire size equivalence

Michael Fredette wrote:
>  Michael Fredette wrote:
>  Hi kids,
>      Can anyone give the metric size for a 900-16 tire.  I'd like to > replace
>          [ truncated by lro-lite (was 7 lines)]
>  900x16 size, or any size for that matter here in Oregon. Anyone
>  got a source?

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 21 lines)]
> Rgds
> Mike
 
You would be looking at something like a 36-11.50-15 if such a thing
existed or to fit your rims  36-11.50-16 
         John and Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 18:02:31 +0100
From: "Said Geoffrey at MITTS" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
Subject: Dilemma

Now that I own 2 landrovers I have a problem.  In the beginning I was going to 
sell the Series III (as my mother and father want) but I have a gut feeling to 
keep it and do a restoration.

What do I do????

What do you suggest??

Geoffrey
Malta

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 13:11:18 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Dilemma

Said Geoffrey at MITTS wrote:
> Now that I own 2 landrovers I have a problem.  In the beginning I was going to
> sell the Series III (as my mother and father want) but I have a gut feeling to
> keep it and do a restoration.
> What do I do????
> What do you suggest??

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> Geoffrey
> Malta

You should do what all good children do .... totally ignore your parents
wishes   :-)
    John and Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 16:31:24 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Clutch Questions

Hi All!
    Got a few questions regarding the clutch, Series IIa, 1964. It's got 
a 9" driven and pressure plate. Can you replace the pressure plate with a 
9 1/2" and still use the 9" disc? If so, any mods needed? Or how 'bout 
replacing the works with a 9 1/2? 
   Thanks all;

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 15:44:28 EST
Subject: Re: Clutch Questions

In a message dated 3/3/98 3:38:40 PM Eastern Standard Time,
seitl@ns.sympatico.ca writes:

<< Got a few questions regarding the clutch, Series IIa, 1964. It's got 
 a 9" driven and pressure plate. Can you replace the pressure plate with a 
 9 1/2" and still use the 9" disc? If so, any mods needed? Or how 'bout 
 replacing the works with a 9 1/2? 
    Thanks all; >>

I replaced my 9" with a 9 1/2" clutch without problems.  There is a difference
in the position (or number) of locating dowels on the flywheel, but the dowels
can be adjusted without a problem (I think it was there's one extra dowel on
the 9" setup which has to be pulled out).

Nate

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 15:55:45 EST
Subject: Re: Clutch Questions

In a message dated 3/3/98 3:47:01 PM Eastern Standard Time, NADdMD@aol.com
writes:

<< << Got a few questions regarding the clutch, Series IIa, 1964. It's got 
  a 9" driven and pressure plate. Can you replace the pressure plate with a 
  9 1/2" and still use the 9" disc? If so, any mods needed? Or how 'bout 
  replacing the works with a 9 1/2? 
     Thanks all; >>
 
 I replaced my 9" with a 9 1/2" clutch without problems.  There is a
difference
 in the position (or number) of locating dowels on the flywheel, but the
dowels
 can be adjusted without a problem (I think it was there's one extra dowel on
 the 9" setup which has to be pulled out). >>

I forgot to mention, I was told that it is best to replace the whole assembly
at once,  that the flywheel should possibly be turned at the same time and
closely examine the pilot bush and possibly replace for an optimal outcome
(since the tranny's already out of the way).

Nate

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 17:00:11 -0500
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: 900 x 16 tyres

Mike fredette requests 900 x 16 information.
Actually 900 x 16 tyres can be purchased as radials, which usually
identifies a metric tyre. The Michelin book list 900's as being 910 mm
outside dia ( 35.8" ) with a static laden radius of 405 mm ( 15.9" ) on a
6.5 inch rim the section is 252 mm ( 9.9") for the XL and 246 mm for the XY.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 08:28:02 +1100
From: Ross <fax.rescue@hunterlink.net.au>
Subject: Landy names for your list
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; 
boundary="------------6819D0F1ADD69B4C1A9E365F" ]

Our Landy, 'Castrol', gets it's name from it's
unstoppable addiction: and it marks it's territory
(driveway) to ward off other marques. My favourite
name of all the Landies I've met is 'Black Duck',
as in <italic> "not this little black duck!" ...a
'66 swb.
Cheers,
Ross.

--------------6819D0F1ADD69B4C1A9E365F
Content-Disposition: inline; filename="castroltag.txt"

www - http://users.hunterlink.net.au/~derf/swb/index.html
        
   _____\___   'Castrol' -Australian Ex-Army Land-Rover SWB Series 2a 1964
  l._;|__|/-l                  
  `(*)~~~'(*)  'Pickles' -Australian Ex-Army Land-Rover SWB Series 2  1959
                 
                                mailto:ross@lords.com

                             "More oil stains than the road to Basra" 

--------------6819D0F1ADD69B4C1A9E365F--

------------------------------

From: Michael Fredette <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>
Subject: Re: 900 x 16 tyres
Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 14:39:29 -0800 (PST)

 
 Mike fredette requests 900 x 16 information.
 Actually 900 x 16 tyres can be purchased as radials, which usually
 identifies a metric tyre. The Michelin book list 900's as being 910 mm
 outside dia ( 35.8" ) with a static laden radius of 405 mm ( 15.9" ) on a
 6.5 inch rim the section is 252 mm ( 9.9") for the XL and 246 mm for the XY.
 Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.

   And what an extremely helpful exiled Limey you are, thanks loads! That's
exactly the info I was needing. 

Best Rgds
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 08:41:12 +1100
From: Ross <fax.rescue@hunterlink.net.au>
Subject: unsubscribe

unsubscribe lro

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 06:00:17 -0500
From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Subject: Re: SII top on a SIII?

YES. ! ! !

GElam30092 wrote:

> I think this has been covered before but can't remember the outcome....
> Will a hardtop from a '63 IIA 88" fit an early Series III?  It would make life
> easier if they will interchange....
> (A direct response as well one to the list is appreciated.  I'm in Sao Paulo
> Brazil and sometimes AOL doesn't work well even with the local access.)
> Thanks...

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Thanks...
> Gerry

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 06:39:06 -0500
From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Subject: Re: tire size equivalence

d.h.lowe wrote:

> Hi.Mike             Tom T. recently fitted 305/85-R16  ...".Buckshot Mudders" 
to
> his 101.They are similar to the super swamper type tread.They were purchased 
from
> National Tire. Approx.$160 U.S. They also have a less aggressive type Coyote
> Radial.  diam.~36"......9.5" to 10" wide.9" tread on the road. Trevor Smith 
also
> has some worn XCL`s for sale.Give him a buzz. Personally I will be buying the 
same
> as Tom as soon as I have the rest of the fleet  "fettled". I would never buy 
a set
> of bar grips, they are scary things on wet or iced roads . National are based 
in
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 21 lines)]
> > Spoke with Greg @ Safari Gard sometime back and he had 900x16 in the
> > michelin XZL.  Just a thought...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 07:02:30 -0500
From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Subject: Re: Dilemma

Geoffrey.   You do not sell Land Rovers......you buy them!  Believe me! !

Said Geoffrey at MITTS wrote:

> Now that I own 2 landrovers I have a problem.  In the beginning I was going to
> sell the Series III (as my mother and father want) but I have a gut feeling to
> keep it and do a restoration.
> What do I do????
> What do you suggest??
> Geoffrey

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Geoffrey
> Malta

------------------------------

From: "Chris Velardi" <tchris@freewwweb.com>
Subject: Rust
Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 18:59:10 -0500
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ]
	charset="iso-8859-1"

Barnett, A few months ago I got the D90 Rhino lined , it is now =
"deadened" and more like a big swimming pool . I no longer worry about =
water salt , sand , mud etc.. staying inside the truck , no paint to =
erode scratch or wear away under the mats while the water that came in =
through  the doors , windows and soft  top sit in the crevices and never =
dry out. It's a big security blanket. I don't think It will do anything =
for the sill tops and the other small steal pieces that corrode because =
of lack of proper coating and contact of steal and aluminum. Mine hasn't =
started to carried there yet but when it does I think ripping off all =
the steal and galvanizing (Audi does it 10 year warrantee on rust) them =
and hitting them with any resilient black coating to resist scratching =
and chipping.
Chris "V" with the XTREM striving to get to the OLD YELLER level

------=_NextPart_000_0024_01BD46D6.7366BB20
	[ Original post was HTML ]
	charset="iso-8859-1"

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Barnett, A few months ago I got the =
D90 Rhino
lined , it is now &quot;deadened&quot; and more like a big swimming pool =
. I no
longer worry about water salt , sand , mud etc.. staying inside the =
truck , no
paint to erode scratch or wear away under the mats while the water that =
came in
through&nbsp; the doors , windows and soft&nbsp; top sit in the crevices =
and
never dry out. It's a big security blanket. I don't think It will do =
anything
for the sill tops and the other small steal pieces that corrode because =
of lack
of proper coating and contact of steal and aluminum. Mine hasn't started =
to
carried there yet but when it does I think ripping off all the steal and =

galvanizing (Audi does it 10 year warrantee on rust) them and hitting =
them with
any resilient black coating to resist scratching and =
chipping.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Chris &quot;V&quot; with the XTREM =
striving to
get to the OLD YELLER level&nbsp;</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0024_01BD46D6.7366BB20--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 19:46:51 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Tech articles in LROi

The March issue of LROi has several tech articles of interest, two of
which cover recent topics on this list.
1) Replacing front swivel balls on a SI in 23 pictures. Includes
removing and installing the retaining collar with a press.
2) Description of how the transfer case works, including discussion of
the "stuck in 4wd" problem due to a stuck rod or linkage. Has a number
of photos of a disasembled transfer case including the linkage.
3) Dissasembling and reassembling a rear axle in 24 photos; in this case
to swap the axle housing.

Also, Carl Rogerson writes of a visit to the US; next month will include
his account of a trip with ROAV.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 19:53:51 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: lro@playground.sun.com

SPYDERS wrote:

> Who *is* owner-lro@playgr...

"lro@playground.sun.com" is the "Reply-To" address in all my LRO list
mail. I think it is the actual e-mail account used for distribution of
the LRO list.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 01:55:34 +0100
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: REJUVENATING FUEL TANKS

Its the same with the tank as any other exposed steel parts on a Land
Rover - whilst a hand-rebuilt component, given hours of loving care and
hard work can be protected from the elements for years, a new tank is
nothing but a pile of rust waiting to happen, covered with a flimsy coat
of paint which is enough to protect it from the dust in the spares
warehouse - just try pulling the "Genuine spares" stickers off and see
how the paint comes with it.

OK - do it safe, and don't try repairing a total seive, but otherwise,
even with a new tank, I'd recommend the following -

1.
Peel the bottom protecting plate off (undo solder)

2.
Clean off the paint - repair fine holes with Plastic Metal

3.
Either galvanise it, or 3 coats rust paint, 3 coats black enamel.

4.
Lots of silicone goo between the bottom plate and the tank - reassemble
the two. More ogg round the sides and the centre hole - to keep moisture
and crud from getting in in the first place.

5.
two coats more of black enamel. Let it dry indoors, in the warm for a
week.

OK - lots of trouble for a 65 quid biscuit tin, but this recipe will
last for years, wont collect crud, and won't let you down - just give it
a lick of paint once a year, and it will last as long as the ash-tray.

Or buy a new tank, whop it on, and take 18 months to three years to get
back to step one.

Good luck - usual disclaimers about not trying this without the help of
an adult, and all that....

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
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mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 01:57:02 +0100
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re:FIREWALL

Does anyone have the recipe for removing the firewall?

Do the wings hold the firewall up, or does the firewall hold the wings
up? Or do I just pull the whole carabam off?

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: trowe@cdr.wisc.edu
Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 19:00:50 -0600
Subject: any rover owners in Chicago area?

From: Tom Rowe@CDR on 03-03-98 07:00 PM

cc:
Subject:  any rover owners in Chicago area?

I'm in chicago for a class Wed and thur. If you're nearby and want to get a
beer Tue or Wed evening, give me a call. I'm staying at the Homestead
Village off Rt 34 in Westmont, real close to the Land Rover dealer.
630-323-9292  x1126
Cheers.

Tom Rowe
Network Systems Administrator
WI Center for Dairy Research
Madison, WI
608-265-6194 Fax: 608-262-1578
trowe@cdr.wisc.edu

Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 20:36:32 EST
Subject: Re: FIREWALL

In a message dated 98-03-03 19:59:52 EST, you write:

<< Does anyone have the recipe for removing the firewall?
 
 Do the wings hold the firewall up, or does the firewall hold the wings
 up? Or do I just pull the whole carabam off?
  >>

This is how I do it.
1. Remove doors.  Generally I take off the hinge on the door post with the
door closed and then remove the door with its hinges.  They can be swines if
the captive nuts have come loose or (on SIII) the screw heads are in a bad
way.  If I run into insurmountable problems, I will remove the door side of
the hinge (on SIII) or the pivot bolt (SIIa's).

2.  Remove fenders.  On one side there are stud plates (LH side I think) where
the fender attaches to the radiator panel.  The other may have stud plates or
bolts.  There is a single bolt holding the inner wing to the steering
box/throttle linkage support (toebox bolts to this support).  There are one or
two bolts on top near the dashpanel which bolt through an angle support.
There are 4 bolts which hold the wing to the front of the dashpanel.  The top
and bottom ones must be removed but the two in the middle can be just loosened
and the wing slipped off.  On the side with the heater, it can be difficult to
reach the 2 middle bolts.  Don't forget to undo all the  bolts to clips
holding parts of the wiring harness.  Disconnect the heating intake duct from
the wing.

3. Remove top (or at least loosen all the bolts to the tub and remove the
bolts attaching the top to the windscreen)

4. Remove windscreen

5. Remove floors and tunnel cover.

6.  Disconnect Choke, throttle linkage, unhook wiring harness at connectors,
disconnect heating controls, brake lines,  clutch lines, and speedo cable

7.  Remove Steering wheel and remove steering column supports

8.  Unbolt the toebox from the  support brackets.

9.  Get an assistant

10.  Remove the herkin' big tiebolts from the bottoms of the doorposts

11.  Lift the dashpanel up off of the steering column.  Move slowly and check
that all lines are disconnected (like windscreen washer lines)

It sounds like a lot, but the toughest part is disconnecting all the lines and
wires.  The rest is very straight forward.  Label wires as you disconnect,
DON'T TRUST YOUR MEMORY.

Expect to spend 6 to 8 hours, depending on how rusty all the bolts are.

Good Luck

Nate  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 20:52:59 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: conversion to negative earth

This may be old news.  From the "Land Rover Exchange" website today:

Advertisement to SELL; Product: VEHICLE; Price: Negotiable; (Currency:
US Dollars)
     VERY RARE PRE-PRODUCTION PROTOTYPE FC-101 LAND
     ROVERS
     Land Rovers, FC-101, 1972 Pre-production Prototypes, 964000002A &
964000003A, extremely rare hard
     top cabs, 613-727-1394, Ottawa, Canada
     Estella Arlott <estella_arlott@mitel.com>
     Nepean, Ontario, Canada - Tuesday, March 03, 1998 at 09:52:55 (PST)

Are these the pre-production FC-101s which have been sitting for years
and written about several times but were not for sale?

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 20:58:42 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: FC101s Pre-prod in Canada for sale

(Resend, I forgot to change the subject from "Re: conversion to .....
Apologies.)
This may be old news.  From the "Land Rover Exchange" website today:

Advertisement to SELL; Product: VEHICLE; Price: Negotiable; (Currency:
US Dollars)
     VERY RARE PRE-PRODUCTION PROTOTYPE FC-101 LAND
     ROVERS
     Land Rovers, FC-101, 1972 Pre-production Prototypes, 964000002A &
964000003A, extremely rare hard
     top cabs, 613-727-1394, Ottawa, Canada
     Estella Arlott <estella_arlott@mitel.com>
     Nepean, Ontario, Canada - Tuesday, March 03, 1998 at 09:52:55 (PST)

Are these the pre-production FC-101s which have been sitting for years
and written about several times but were not for sale?

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 22:02:18 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: FIREWALL

Fire wall receipe:
  Take 2 Birmabright Fenders and stir until they become wings and then
store in a cool dry area for several years.
  Carefully prepare and separate a portion of Spagetti by Lucas.
  grasp the drag link between the steering box and the relay, remove it,
  and fling it in the nether reaches of your work shop (this is your
token lost part)
  By fair means or foul extract the three bolts securing the steering
box bracket to the frame and repeat for the other side.
  remove the floors etc place them carefully where you will continually
trip over them and then take out the long bolts out that hold the bottom
of the A pillar to the chassis. 
  The fire wall should at this time land heavily on your leg causing
great pain in the shin area.
  Season to taste with penetrating sauce and enough salt to start the
corrosion process in any new steel parts.
    John and
Muddy                                                                           
                                                 
Ad
rian Redmond wrote:
> Does anyone have the recipe for removing the firewall?
> Do the wings hold the firewall up, or does the firewall hold the wings
> up? Or do I just pull the whole carabam off?
> Adrian Redmond
> ---------------------------------------------------

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 22 lines)]
> Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
> ---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 22:07:39 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: FC101s Pre-prod in Canada for sale

David Cockey wrote:
> (Resend, I forgot to change the subject from "Re: conversion to .....
> Apologies.)
> This may be old news.  From the "Land Rover Exchange" website today:
> Advertisement to SELL; Product: VEHICLE; Price: Negotiable; (Currency:
> US Dollars)
>      VERY RARE PRE-PRODUCTION PROTOTYPE FC-101 LAND
>      ROVERS
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
> Are these the pre-production FC-101s which have been sitting for years
> and written about several times but were not for sale?
 Could very well be. They are in the right area.
     John and Muddy

------------------------------

From: lndrvr@ldd.net (BRIAN WILLOUGHBY)
Subject: A Sacrilegious Inquiry
Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 20:17:31 -0600

Hello to everyone.  I recently have been presented with the opportunity to
acquire an early '70s Toyota Land Cruiser for a very attractive price. 
It's an early one with four-wheel drums and three-speed transmission (which
I am aware detracts from it in TLC circles.)  Yes, it has some rust though
nothing cripling.  Since I am restoring my Series II and don't want to do
anything with it that will damage its new, straight body panels (yes, it
will go off-road again, though I will not try to squeeze it through trees
and rocks in the future--check out the price on a new rear quarter panel!),
I thought that this TLC might be perfect to hack
around in down on the farm, etc.  If nothing else, I could resell various
parts off it and make money on the deal.  Anyhow, I'm sure there are plenty
of opinions out there just waiting to be expressed.  Well...
 
Thanks,
 
Brian

1960 Land-Rover Series II 88" S.W.
 
BTW, It's a soft-top with roll bar and no backseats.  It has is original
engine (the Chevy-derived straight-6).  Rust is worst above
the rear bumper/crossmember where the rot has completely eaten through up
to about an inch.  Otherwise, the rest of the body is decent.  For
identification purposes, it has round taillamps which dates it prior to
1973.

I sent this to the Major before though he never posted it.  Sorry for
repeating it if some of you already received it.

------------------------------

From: "Eyres, Richard RP" <Eyres.Richard.RP@bhp.com.au>
Subject: RE: Re:FIREWALL
Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 15:17:00 +1100 

>Does anyone have the recipe for removing the firewall?

>Do the wings hold the firewall up, or does the firewall hold the wings
>up? Or do I just pull the whole carabam off?

>Adrian Redmond

Adrian,
I replaced my firewall a couple of years ago. It was fairly straight
forward, if a little time consuming. The fire wall is effectively self
supporting. (main attachment large bolts though chassis outriggers and
then brackets to chassis rails in engine compartment) From memory,
remove splash guards from under wings, remove the bonnet (grin!), the
wings can be removed as complete assemblies. You may need to disconnect
wiring to the front lights etc. Remove doors, windscreen (I had to undo
the bolts holding my hard top in place and the lift the top an inch or
two on blocks of wood to get enough room to move the screen) The floor
plates etc. have to come out and the channel sections that support the
outer edges of the floor have to be disconnected form the bulkhead. Then
theres the brake and clutch master cylinders with pedals, 'heater and
fan' assembly, the parcel shelf and front dash, wiper motor, instrument
panel (label all those wires!), steering wheel and column. I remember
separating the column from the rest of the steering linkages being a
b@%$!#& due to a very tight bolt/ rod end or something. Then assorted
cables, wires, linkages etc. for throttle, choke, and so on. Basically,
anything attached to the firewall needs to come off. Finally you have to
poke the dash board wiring loom through a hole, then once all the bolts
etc. have been removed the fire wall just lifts straight off. It can be
lifted by one person, but it is a little awkward and heavy. Easier with
two. Some bolts are tucked away in hard to see places and then of course
some will be gunged up just to help things along. Probably worth getting
replacement bulkhead to outrigger bolts as these rust away. BTW, they
are 'non standard' specially made for Land Rover bolts. Replacement is
just a case of fitting everything back together. Its probably worth
refitting the doors (even temporarily) early in the piece as this will
help line everything up. LR tolerances being hat they are it is quite
likely your replacement bulkhead will sit in a slightly different
location on all the brackets etc., but it should still line up OK where
it really matters.
All in all its fairly straight forward, but definitely somewhat
intimidating. Just be methodical, save all the old bolts etc., and if
your really worried, make sketchs or take photos so you know where
everything goes.
Best of luck,
Richard.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Mar 1998 23:36:03 -0500
From: Brett Storey <brstore@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Dilemma

Then you get to spend the rest of your time just trying to keep 'em all
running... right Dave.

d.h.lowe wrote:
Geoffrey.   You do not sell Land Rovers......you buy them!  Believe me! !

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 23:09:23 +0100
From: "Said Geoffrey at MITTS" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
Subject: RE:Re: Series 3 2.25 L diesel - should I buy

Sorry to contrudict you.

I have a long wheel base Series III fitted with a 2.25 diesel.  It accelerates 
and I once pushed it up to 65mph without overdrive and without any tempreture 
problems.  

It is noisy and sluggish when coming to go up hills but it given the correct 
gear it can out pull a petrol.

I once have driven my Series III with up to 18 people on board. It still 
accelerated.

Offroad it is great as a small touch of the accelerator gives you very good 
torque which helps you to go up rocks and mud.

I can say that it is less prone to electrical problems and if you know the fuel 
system well and how to bleed the system and how to repair you are a long way to 
do most jobs yourself.

I suggest that anyone having a diesel use Redex fuel additive as it cleans the 
git in the pumps and injectors and helps give long live to the injectors which 
is critical to a diesel. 

Also a good battery is needed to start the motor as you must heat the chambers 
as well turn the engine.

Geoffrey
Malta

d.h.lowe:
>Series III 2.25 Diesel vehicles do NOT accelerate. They gain momentum. Just
>thought I would share that thought.
>Faure, Marin wrote:
>> From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
>> Subject: Series 3 2.25 L diesel - should I buy
>        [ truncated by lro-lite (was 56 lines)]

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>> Subject: Series 3 2.25 L diesel - should I buy
>        [ truncated by lro-lite (was 56 lines)]

------------------------------

From: "drew squires" <drewteri@concentric.net>
Subject: Re: A Sacrilegious Inquiry
Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 22:48:11 -0500

If it's an FJ-45 Grab it!  otherwise, who cares?  Beat it into the dirt!

Drew.
(still looking-109)

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258 <CIrvin1258@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 02:33:24 EST
Subject: Re: Series 3 2.25 L diesel - should I buy

"Diesel Land Rovers don't accelerate - they just gain momentum."

Well, that depends on how high you rev it. Lotsa folks seem to think that,
since it's a diesel engine, that you can't rev it like a petrol engine - NOT
true. You can rev it, though it does run out of ooomph beyond a certain range.

I've taken my diesel upto 65-75mph without an overdrive on many occasions
(especially lately, since my OD died - and I haven't had time to even look at
it!), and it doesn't mind, although the fuel consumption has noticably been a
bit higher on long trips.

If you don't rev it, then yes - it just gains momentum.

Charles

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 09:34:03 +0000
From: Mick Forster <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: To all...
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; 
boundary="------------A2FFCE14CAB6E8BC99556207" ]

Adams, Bill wrote:
>> Might I add to Bill C.'s post that he's an all around good guy. >> Thanks> 
again Bill for a thankless job well done.

> Ditto, this is a fantastic resource and have learned a great deal in
> my two years subscribed.
> Herman

Double ditto, I don't have time to say much, but there is something
worth reading most days.

Mick the Grateful
--------------A2FFCE14CAB6E8BC99556207

------------------------------

From: "Huub Pennings" <HPS@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 10:41:36 +0100
Subject:       Re: FIREWALL

Hello Guys,

Since I am in the rebuilding proces of a firewall myself I wonder if 
anyone has some sound advise on how best to rust protect this part.
Options that come to mind are Zinc dipping (Can it take the 
temperatures involved?). Zinc spraying after sandblasting 
(effectiveness???) and of course diffrent pain scemes,
Anyone???
  

Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 10:08:22 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Testing

>Just a test.  Something is very strange.
>Thanks,
>Andy
Lots of things are.Which particular item did you have in mind?:-)

Mike

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 05:50:00 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Subject: Re: FIREWALL

On Wed, 4 Mar 1998, Huub Pennings wrote:

> Since I am in the rebuilding proces of a firewall myself I wonder if 
 anyone has some sound advise on how best to rust protect this part.
 Options that come to mind are Zinc dipping (Can it take the 
 temperatures involved?). Zinc spraying after sandblasting 

People do galvinize them, I don't know how much of a problem warping is.

> (effectiveness???) and of course diffrent pain scemes,
                                           ^^^^^^
Surely just watching it rust is painful enough?

David 

> Anyone???
> Regards,
> Huub Pennings
> e-mail adress

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 42 lines)]
> e-mail adress
> Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Mar 1998 12:25:59 +0100
From: Marijn van der Himst <marijn@multiweb.net>
Subject: Re: Military Wiring: Users Handbook

To David Kurzman, Robert McCullough (and all):
If there's more people interested in FFR wiring diagrams, how about
pulling them through a scanner and send them through e-mail to those
who want them? Same goes for all other tech matters that cannot be put
to words. Is this not why we have this wonderful things called Internet,
computers, and all the other stuff?
Don't know if any copyright-laws apply, I for one don't really
care, as long as the main goal (getting the green thing on the road
instead of lurking in the barn) is obtained!
Am willing to pay a suitable fee if needed, but how ? (no creditcard).

So David,Robert, yes I am interested, desperate, at the brink of a nervous
breakdown, get back to us please..!
P.S. what's the story on those guided missiles? Could be interesting ;>

Cheers, Marijn

'74 109FFR "Winston"

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 4 Mar 1998 11:40:59 +0000
Subject: Re: Military Wiring: Users Handbook

I did reply, saying I could mail some p/copies of the relevant bits.
Perhaps a mailer somewhere crunched it.

Send me your address, and I can put some photocopies in the post!

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

marijn@multiweb.net on 03/04/98 11:25:59 AM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Re: Military Wiring: Users Handbook

To David Kurzman, Robert McCullough (and all):
If there's more people interested in FFR wiring diagrams, how about
pulling them through a scanner and send them through e-mail to those
who want them? Same goes for all other tech matters that cannot be put
to words. Is this not why we have this wonderful things called Internet,
computers, and all the other stuff?
Don't know if any copyright-laws apply, I for one don't really
care, as long as the main goal (getting the green thing on the road
instead of lurking in the barn) is obtained!
Am willing to pay a suitable fee if needed, but how ? (no creditcard).
So David,Robert, yes I am interested, desperate, at the brink of a nervous
breakdown, get back to us please..!
P.S. what's the story on those guided missiles? Could be interesting ;>
Cheers, Marijn
'74 109FFR "Winston"

------------------------------

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