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Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 07:31:48 -0500
From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Subject: extraction tool

The slot in the fuel tank bottom and in one of the 90-weight drain holes
require a special tool. I called Novers Rorth to get one, and they told me.
It is a half-inch Sears Craftsma open-end wrench. Get the long kind, and
you have all the leverage you ever will need.

                                         Wool Camp in Iceland
    _____  Check out Icelandic wool:     May 15-22: Participants
___(_____) http://www.dmv.com/~iceland   learn about Icelandic
|1969 Land\_===__     Come to            explore wilderness,
|  ___Rover   ___|o   Wool Camp          hiking and motoring
|_/ . \______/ . ||   in Iceland!        in mountain valleys.

___\_/________\_/________________________________________________
Ned Heite Camden, DE  http://home.dmv.com/~eheite/index.html  

------------------------------

From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Subject: disposing of gas (I meant *petrol*, ok.)
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 21:57:48 +1100

>Drain it into a suitable container, label it "GAS" and *forget* it outside
>your garage. When you wake up the next day and look outside, it has been
>"disposed" of.

I had that happen to me except that I had put out a specimen bottle of  2
litres of urine to be picked up by a lab's courier service.  I hope the
thief enjoyed it.

Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, NSW, Australia

'86 Range Rover 4.6L auto (The Last Aquila)
'71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660 1725cc manual
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc auto
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc manual

Editor, Hillman Owners Club of Australia Newsletter
check my home page at http://www.users.bigpond.com/hillman
for Hillman and Rover

------------------------------

From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Subject: Tigger
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 21:54:30 +1100

Dale wrote:
>Tigger is still on the block. I hope to have more photos up on the
>website of him tomorrow.  

Can we see pix of the SWMBO instead?

>Anyone know of a good '92 RR for sale??

Surely "good RR" is an oxymoron?
Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, NSW, Australia
 
'86 Range Rover 4.6L auto (The Last Aquila)
'71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660 1725cc manual
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc auto
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc manual
 
Editor, Hillman Owners Club of Australia Newsletter 
check my home page at http://www.users.bigpond.com/hillman
for Hillman and Rover
 

------------------------------

From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Subject: LRO or LRW contact info
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 21:52:22 +1100

Kevin Sellitti asked:

>Anyone where I can write to get a subscription to Land Rover World or Land
>Rover Owner? Is one Mag better than the other? Does either have a Website?

I have bought a couple of LRW and been given some.  In my humble opinion,
much of the writing is juvenile.  Stick with LROI
Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, NSW, Australia

'86 Range Rover 4.6L auto (The Last Aquila)
'71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660 1725cc manual
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc auto
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc manual

Editor, Hillman Owners Club of Australia Newsletter
check my home page at http://www.users.bigpond.com/hillman
for Hillman and Rover

------------------------------

From: "Peter Monk" <monk@calypso.math.udel.edu>
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 09:28:32 -0500
Subject: Re: LRO/LRW contact

Here are the appropriate URLs

LROI:
http://web.idirect.com/~lroshop/

LRW:
http://www.linkhouse.co.uk/landrover.html

Peter

-- 
Address: Department of Mathematical Sciences  | Phone: 302-831-1873
         University of Delaware               | FAX  : 302-831-4511
         Newark, DE 19716 
         USA
WWW    : http://www.math.udel.edu/~monk

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 10:25:55 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: U Joints

Does anybody have the crossover #'s for the U-joints, 2 15/16" found on 
the Series IIa? I understand Crappy Tire carry the joints, but talking to 
the guys there is a litle frustrating. " You mean a Toyo*a eh, my 
brothers got one of them" kinda deal. Thx in advance!

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 9:31:35 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: OK Ron, how'd ya get two litres?

Busy night or what?

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 09:33:33 -0500
Subject: Re: U Joints

You mean the early ones? I wasn't aware of a crossover for them. The newer
ones(post-64)are simply Chevrolet rear-wheel-drive pickup ones.

               ALan

------------------------------

From: Mark Sullivan <marks@dataflowsys.com>
Subject: 109 Springs
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 09:46:01 -0500

Looking for a main leaf (the one with the eye for the spring bush) for the 
front driver side of my 109. Can anybody help!. The number of leafs 
(leaves) is 11.

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 98 09:15:08 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Winn Bearden

>Sorry that I haven't written back sooner, but I've been extremely busy at 
>work lately (plus a 3 week old baby!).  

its okay I just sent that in yesterday...congrats on the little 'un.
>.
    >Let me know if I can answer more questions- I've got a digital camera
>somewhere and can take some detailed pics if needed.

Im curious about several things.
1. Fender flares?
2. roof?
3. would like to see what the bulkhead looks like
4. would like to see where the seat base attaches to the tub
5. wouls like to see how the outriggers and x-member fit up to the chassis and 
body
6. what was used for guages? Did the rr guages fit the SIII dash?
7. rhd or left? rr steering box or SIII? power or not? would like to see where 
that attaches to firewall
8. is it GREEN? 

ok that's enough for now, I'll think of some more.
thanks!
Dave 

------------------------------

From: caloccia@senie.com
Date: 19 Feb 1998 15:58:22 -0000
Subject: oops !

In the war against spam, earlier this week I inadvertantly introduced a 
rule which 'ate' posts from 'mail@', which had the side effect of eating
messages sent by 'qmail' based mailers (including my own messsages !!!)
so if there are any qmail users who thought their messages were falling
on deaf ears, well, sort of, they were.

Sorry 'bout the inconvience.

Ciao,
 -Bill

------------------------------

From: "Christopher J. Clanton" <clantoc@cscoe.ac.com>
Subject: Rear main seal
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 10:12:05 -0600

I've got a leak on my rear main seal (nothing too bad, about
a quarter size spot in the garage each day), and I'm wondering
if anyone has experience on fixing/living with this leak.

Talking with a mechanic yesterday, it sounds like the engine
has to be pulled to replace the gasket.  Is this true?  Seems
like you could get at it from the backend, transmission side.

How much have people paid mechanics to replace this seal?
Any insight from people that have done this themselves?
If I chose to live with the leak (very probable given current budget),
can I expect the leak to get progressively worse?

Thanks for any insight.

- Christopher Clanton
  clantoc@cscoe.ac.com
  Andersen Consulting
  Minneapolis, MN USA

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 98 11:16:07 EST
Subject: Re[2]: LRO or LRW 

they both are actually kind of pointless after a few issues...always the same 
drivel about how to repair this or that section of the frame, some repair on a 
90 or 110 that we can't get in the US, and the ever-present super duper 
turbocahrged Range Rover with Walnut knobs and a basketball hoop over the 
swimming pool in the boot. Then there's "Derelicts", and "Readers Rig's" and 
the obligatory clubs section which is chock full of info about events that I 
will never attend unless I move to the UK. So for the seven or 8 bucks it costs 
to get it here, I think its better spent on a Guinness and some chips.

later
DaveB

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 98 11:23:40 EST
Subject: Re: disposing of gas (I meant *petrol*, ok.)

>I had that happen to me except that I had put out a specimen bottle of  2 
>litres of urine to be picked up by a lab's courier service.  I hope the 
>thief enjoyed it.

MMMM...Australian for beer...
DaveB

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 12:24:27 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: U Joints

Alan_Richer wrote:
> You mean the early ones? I wasn't aware of a crossover for them. The newer
> ones(post-64)are simply Chevrolet rear-wheel-drive pickup ones.
>                ALan

The newer ones are 3 7/32" or therebouts, fit my '73, but the ones I'm 
looking for are for a 1964, and it does measure 2 15/16". I just figured 
there would be a crossover #, as there is one for the later type.` Sure 
hate to order to the UK for such a small item.

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 98 11:26:39 EST
Subject: Re[2]: U Joints

>You mean the early ones? I wasn't aware of a crossover for them. The newer 
>ones(post-64)are simply Chevrolet rear-wheel-drive pickup ones.

aka napa 369 or national 369, etc etc...make sure tis got a grease nip.  they 
are 3 7/32 cap to cap I think. But this still doesn't help our friend with the 
early type...
 oh well.
DaveB

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 98 11:38:22 EST
Subject: Re: Rear main seal

>a quarter size spot in the garage each day), and I'm wondering 
>if anyone has experience on fixing/living with this leak.

yup.

>.Talking with a mechanic yesterday, it sounds like the 
>engine has to be pulled to replace the gasket.  Is this 
>true?  Seems like you could get at it from the backend, 
>transmission side.

well, your choice, pull the tranny or pull the engine. One of them HAS to go, 
as the seal is hled in by two half circles which are held by the flywheel 
housing. Easier to pull the engine than the gearbox, and easier to change the 
seal if the engine is upside down under you then if you are upside down under 
the engine.
 
>>Any insight from people that have done this themselves?

not too bad, requires a bit of patience and a helps to try it in a "dry 
run" before sticking the whole thing together. I effed up the cork 
seals for the rear main bearing cap, but another set was easily 
obtained from RN since they had some extras. (the 2.6 kit is the same 
so they come with both sets of corks)

>If I chose to live with the leak (very probable given current budget), 
>can I expect the leak to get progressively worse?

yes, but maybe not that quickly. I'd wait and see what happens. You may need to 
do other stuff while the engine is out so its better to wait until you're 
really ready. You could check all the bearings, check the timing chain, replace 
other gaskets, paint the engine, paint the chassis, replace the crusty old 
brake lines, yada yada yada...

Mine leaked a little more than yours (silver dollar size spot on the garage 
floor) for the 9 months that I drove the truck before the rebuild. 
Since its been up and running again (as of Sep. '96) it hasn't really leaked 
(from there). I have even left the wading plug in for several months and it 
comes out dry.

Also take a good sniff of the oil spot on the floor and make sure it aint gear 
oil.
Later
DaveB

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 12:37:17 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Rear main seal

Christopher J. Clanton wrote:
> I've got a leak on my rear main seal (nothing too bad) 

It will get worse
> Talking with a mechanic yesterday, it sounds like the engine
> has to be pulled to replace the gasket.  Is this true? 

Yes

> Any insight from people that have done this themselves?

I waited until I was ready to rebuild the engine before replacing the 
seal. Aside from getting a X-mas card from OPEC,  the dirt road in front 
of my work wasn't dusty anymore, the frame got oiled on a daily basis, 
and the guy behind me thanked me for a rustfree windshield.

> - Christopher Clanton
> has to be pulled to replace the gasket.  Is this true? 

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 16:40:19 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re[2]: LRO or LRW

>the obligatory clubs section which is chock full of info about events that I
>will never attend unless I move to the UK. So for the seven or 8 bucks it
>costs
>to get it here, I think its better spent on a Guinness and some chips.
The current issues of both seem to have a US content.Admittedly LRO gave
up reporting on "overseas" clubs a while ago,but LRW didnt until recently.
Why either of them did is beyond me.I would have thought coverage of
series machines would be of interest of interest worldwide.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Subject: Re: disposing of gas (I meant *petrol*, ok.)
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 98 11:04:40 -0600
From: asanna <asanna@sacofoods.com>

When I drained Lulubelle's two tanks of grungy, crudded up gas, I just 
hauled it in a few 5-gallon pails to the nearest RR track, and spread it 
out on the oily ballast that was already there.

Anonymous

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Avenue
Middleton, Wisconsin  53562  USA

asanna@sacofoods.com

1-800-373-7226
(608) 238-9101

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 12:10:15 -0500
From: Jeffrey A Berg <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Another FINSUP Repair Folly

You've heard the rumors...now read the whole truth--or at least only a
slightly modifed version. (Bill's wrong in calling it my first repair.) If
you're a frustrated driveway mechanic you'll feel right at home with the
account of my brake job. If you're competent, you'll laugh at (with?) me.
Anyhow, check it out for yourself at
Repairs/pvm-jeff1.html.

Don't forget, this and all of my Rover articles are just one click away
from http://www.off-road.com/OVLR/jberg/.

RoverOn!
jab

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
	Your loss is measured in illusions, your gain is
	all in bittersweet intelligence,
	And your winsome smile will lose some of its
	innocence
		     --Chris Smither, Winsome Smile

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 11:42:42 -0800
From: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Subject: Re: U Joints

Con P. Seitl wrote:
> Alan_Richer wrote:
> > You mean the early ones? I wasn't aware of a crossover for them. The newer
> > ones(post-64)are simply Chevrolet rear-wheel-drive pickup ones.
> >                ALan
> The newer ones are 3 7/32" or therebouts, fit my '73, but the ones I'm
> looking for are for a 1964, and it does measure 2 15/16". I just figured
> there would be a crossover #, as there is one for the later type.` Sure
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
> Con Seitl
> 1973 III 88 "Pig"
Here goes,
	Quinton-Hazel QL403   Unipart GUJ116   GMB9(japanese) 220-1100.
easiest fit ALL TR4 thru TR6  Propshaft and/or Driveshaft (axel)  
-- 

http://www.mailbag.com/users/nosimport/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 12:23:26 -0500
From: Michael_Lenaghan@cayennesoft.com (Michael Lenaghan)
Subject: Re[2]: disposing of gas (I meant *petrol*, ok.)

     When you say RR do you mean Range Rover or Railroad : )
     
     Mike

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
> Subject: Re: disposing of gas (I meant *petrol*, ok.)
> Author:  asanna <asanna@sacofoods.com> at inetmail

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 27 lines)]
> 1-800-373-7226
> (608) 238-9101

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 13:58:59 EST
Subject: Re: LRO or LRW

In a message dated 2/19/98 11:22:26 AM, you wrote:

>they both are actually kind of pointless after a few issues...always the same
>drivel about how to repair this or that section of the frame, some repair on
a
>90 or 110 that we can't get in the US, and the ever-present super duper 
turbocahrged Range Rover with Walnut knobs and a basketball hoop over the 
swimming pool in the boot. Then there's "Derelicts", and "Readers Rig's" and 
>the obligatory clubs section which is chock full of info about events that I 
>will never attend unless I move to the UK. So for the seven or 8 bucks it
costs
>to get it here, I think its better spent on a Guinness and some chips.

Yeah, I second the emotion, and don't forget, both magazines make new US
subscribers members of their off-road clubs, which gives discounts on those
off-road events we'll never attend...

Somewhere in my tool locker, I've got some stickers I wouldn't ever put on the
car, a plastic ID that lets me go to some off-road centers in Wales (where's
that? ;-) ) and somewhere else, and a key-fob, all from the magazines I signed
up for once.

I let my subscription lapse for many of the aforementioned reasons, but do go
down to the local Borders/Barnes & Oble to look and see if there's anything
particularly interesting or pertinent to us, here. And I like to keep at least
one copy less than 4 months old, just for the ads, the suppliers' addresses
come in handy, etc.

pat
93  110

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 14:08:06 EST
Subject: Land Rover Investment Opportunity (listen up, Seattle...)

Just got back from the local dealer. I saw 3 D90s, the new sales guy tried to
sell them to me (he didn't see my 110 parked out back, hehe, so I messed with
him). 

First one: AA yellow, *soft top*, with alu. treadplate package + Hellas all
over it $: 42K++

Second one: Blue, SW, same package + full rack & lights $: more than the
yellow one

Third one: Willow Green with all the goodies except winch. This one looks like
a Seattle car... $46K (?!)

The only interesting thing was the front wing protectors on the yellow one
were black instead of silver, there's a good idea. The "DEFENDER" sticker
graphics all over them was particularly revolting. So, would a comatose
investor please blink your eyelids and get one of these, so when the nurse
trips on the plug, some of us enthusiasts can get it as a devalued *used*
vehicle? 

pat
93  110

ps Val Kilmer just recently bought their 110, I think it was #72, and they
then sent it to North Carolina as a gift for its recipient.

------------------------------

From: GNBull3@aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 15:22:25 EST
Subject: Re:  Oil Pump/ Filter/ Pressure Questions

In a message dated 2/16/98 9:32:02, Ben Nibali wrote:

<<I just swapped the awkward stock oil filter assembly on my '65 2.25 in
>favor of a spin-on adapter (from British Pacific) and a Fram PH8A
>filter. ..I started it up for the first time since the filter switch last
night.
>I immediately noticed an ominous metallic thumping coming from the
>general area of the engine block.  I shut it off after about 20 seconds
>of running.   I was pretty concerned now so I only let it run maybe 30
seconds. I >noticed that the oil pressure gauge was still on the peg (zero)
and the engine >_seemed_ to develop a miss.  The engine only ran for about 30
seconds.

>My first question is this:  Could my oil pump have crapped out just
>sitting in the garage for a couple months?  I suppose my next step is to
>drop the pan and have a look at the oil pump filter and check the pump
>itself.

I doubt your oil pump crapped out from sitting there. The adaptor seems more
suspect to me. Are you using the right filter for the adaptor? Are you *sure*
you installed the adaptor correctly. I'd double check to be absolutely
certain. If you did and that doesn't explain it, make sure you didn't loose
the prime on the pump. First if you haven't done so already, fill the filter
with as much oil as possible. Then disconnect the HT line from the coil so the
engine doesn't start. You may want to pull the plugs as the motor will spin
faster and there is less strain on the starter. Next crank it over until you
get oil pressure. This may take a little while, i.e. a few minutes of
cranking. Be careful not to burn out your starter though. You can try the good
ole hand crank but you have to spin it over a lot. If you still don't get oil
pressure, there is something wrong with the pump, the adapter or your
installation of the adaptor. I doubt it would be the pump though because
sitting for two months shouldn't cause a problem. 

>Another question:  How long can a 2.25 run without any oil? 
Not very long, especially if it was sitting for a couple of months. The oil
had plenty of time to drain. If you ran it for less than a minute, it
shouldn't be a problem but then again if you had the choke on and raced it and
then the generator kicked in to charge the battery which would give some load,
well then a minute is the max safety zone. I've heard of people going for 5 -
10 minutes with no oil pressure and no catastrophic problems and others who
have had engines seize in a few minutes. Really depends on lots of factors. 
>possible that the clunking I heard was just the oil pump pumping more
>than normal quantities of oil as it filled the new filter? 
I highly doubt it especially if it sounded metallic or grinding.
 
>Maybe I'm being a wus and I just need to trust that the
>pump will start feeding the engine before the engine starts to fry.

I'd crank it over without starting it until you get pressure. I'd also be
skeptical of the oil filter adapter especially since you didn't have the
problem before that. Good luck!

Regards,
George Bull 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 13:04:10 -0800 (PST)
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: USA Land Rover Magazine

 To All Roverites-

        Some exciting news! I have been approached by a well-known
periodical publisher about editing a North American Land Rover magazine.
This is for real! It would probably start out as a quarterly magazine of
roughly 100 pages. The market research is being done but the preliminary
numbers seem to justify the investment. At this point it looks like a go
for the first issue to come out later this year, however until the number
crunchers finish, there remains a small amount of doubt
        It could cover all aspects of North American Land Roverdom,
including (but not limited to) road tests (new and vintage, including
perhaps some comparisons of new vs old), good tech on levels from easy to
"engineering degree required," travel here and overseas, vehicle features,
restoration, a regular columnist from Jolly 'Ol, accessory news, the rumor
mill, lifestyle, Rover people, club news and events, driving tips and the
rest of the list is potentially endless. An online version would probably
follow.
        Best of all it would cost about the same as any USA mag.

        So what do you think? Ideas and suggestions on any aspect of this
welcome. I will rebroadcast this once more to make sure I hit everyone.
Replies are best directed to me at jimallen@onlinecol.com, though I don't
suppose the list would mind a debate if it's of sufficient interest.

        Jim Allen

------------------------------

From: MurphyK1@psgvl.ps.ge.com
Subject: RE: Land Rover Investment Opportunity (listen up, Seattle...)
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 16:40:57 -0500

Here in Greenville, the local dealer was selling the aluminum treadplate
package D90 with a hardtop, Dark Gray color, Roof Rack, Hellas, brush bar...
auto transmission, vertical rolling windows, and forward facing rear
seat.... $42+K as well.  

I had more interest in 58 SI that was behind back waiting to be restored by
their mechanics.

Kevin

g____________________________
        Kevin A. Murphy
       GE GAS TURBINE FINANCE
       (864) 675-2727 / 8*288-2727 (phone)
       (864)-675-2274 / 8*288-2274 (fax)

> ----------
> From: 	SPYDERS@aol.com[SMTP:SPYDERS@aol.com]
> Sent: 	Thursday, February 19, 1998 2:08 PM
> To: 	lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: 	Land Rover Investment Opportunity (listen up, Seattle...)
> Just got back from the local dealer. I saw 3 D90s, the new sales guy tried
> to
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 37 lines)]
> ps Val Kilmer just recently bought their 110, I think it was #72, and they
> then sent it to North Carolina as a gift for its recipient.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 14:10:54 -0800
From: Clayton Kirkwood <kirkwood@kirkwood-desk.fm.intel.com>
Subject: Re: USA Land Rover Magazine

When do they list job openings. I am very interested in the possibility of
having fun at work!!

Clayton

At 01:04 PM 2/19/98 -0800, Jim Allen wrote:
> To All Roverites-
>        Some exciting news! I have been approached by a well-known
>periodical publisher about editing a North American Land Rover magazine.
>This is for real! It would probably start out as a quarterly magazine of
>roughly 100 pages. The market research is being done but the preliminary
>numbers seem to justify the investment. At this point it looks like a go
>for the first issue to come out later this year, however until the number
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 29 lines)]
>suppose the list would mind a debate if it's of sufficient interest.
>        Jim Allen

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 18:30:00 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Trusty SIII 88" Canvas Top for sale

Dale Avery wrote:
> Hello all!
> I am selling Tigger, my 1973 SIII 88" Canvas Top.  SWMBO refuses to go
> camping and off-roading with me in it.  But she did give me permission
> to purchase a Range
> Rover as a replacement. 

So sad to see another soul leave the fold :-( 
  The cheery side is that Trigger will make someone else happy! 

BTW, what the 'ell does SWMBO mean?

Regards,  Con.......

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 18:25:24 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: U Joints

Peter wrote:
> Here goes,
>         Quinton-Hazel QL403   Unipart GUJ116   GMB9(japanese) 220-1100.
> easiest fit ALL TR4 thru TR6  Propshaft and/or Driveshaft (axel)

Peter: Thanks for the info, I think......
        I'm a bit confused. The three joints you mention, Quinto-Hazel 
QL403,  Unipart GUJ116, and the GMB9 220-1100, they all fit the 1964 Land 
Rover, with the 2 15/16" measurements? What do you mean about "easiest 
fit ALL TR4 tru TR6 etc? Are you saying the TR's have the same U-joints 
as a Land Rover? Thanks in advance!

Regards,  Con......

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 17:52:56 -0500
From: Brett Storey <brstore@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Trusty SIII 88" Canvas Top for sale

Con,

I believe SWMBO means "she who must be obeyed"

Con P. Seitl wrote:

> BTW, what the 'ell does SWMBO mean?
> Regards,  Con.......

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 17:15:51 -0600
From: "\"Mr. Mike\" Passaretti" <passaretti@sol.med.ge.com>
Subject: Re: Trusty SIII 88" Canvas Top for sale

    >> BTW, what the 'ell does SWMBO mean?  Regards,

Sidhe or (She) Who Must Be Obeyed...
						-MM

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 06:33:09 -0500
From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Subject: Re: Rear main seal

If the leak is from the back of the sump rather than the bellhousing the
chances are the leak is from the cork seals on either side of the rear main
block.(They shrink) You can gain some more time out of the seal by removing
the sump, cleaning the oil from the bearing block and push the ends of the
seals back into the recesses with a blunt screwdriver or similar. Take a
piece of the T seal (the seal kits come with 4 and 6 cyl. cork seals---the
six is the long one).Cut a piece to suit leaving about eight of an inch
proud of the block.Gasket seal the hole and insert the piece of cork pushing
it back gently, add some more gasket stuff around the 1/8" bit sticking out
and re-install the sump pan.If the oil is leaking from the wading plug hole
and is of serious quantity your engine will have to be removed to change the
actual seal.
Christopher J. Clanton wrote:

> I've got a leak on my rear main seal (nothing too bad, about
> a quarter size spot in the garage each day), and I'm wondering
> if anyone has experience on fixing/living with this leak.
> Talking with a mechanic yesterday, it sounds like the engine
> has to be pulled to replace the gasket.  Is this true?  Seems
> like you could get at it from the backend, transmission side.
> How much have people paid mechanics to replace this seal?
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)]
>   Andersen Consulting
>   Minneapolis, MN USA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 06:41:02 -0500
From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Subject: Re: U Joints

The small joint is ...Precision 344...or...Spicer # 4.....or.....Alloy
1021.J5.4.....26.99 at Cnd Tire.

Con P. Seitl wrote:

> Does anybody have the crossover #'s for the U-joints, 2 15/16" found on
> the Series IIa? I understand Crappy Tire carry the joints, but talking to
> the guys there is a litle frustrating. " You mean a Toyo*a eh, my
> brothers got one of them" kinda deal. Thx in advance!
> Con Seitl
> 1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 13:32:47 -1000
From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Subject: Re: Rear main seal

	Don't fix it unless you plan on rebuilding the engine totally.  Mine 
had a
small leak which I decided to fix when I had the trans out.  Only took me
two years to get it all back together and over a thousand dollars in parts
and machining.  The engine runs pretty as much as it did before the
rebuild, by the way.
	The only tricky part about the R&R of the seal is the cork gasket that
seals the mainbearing cap.  I tore a couple of the cork seals up before I
got the hang of how to put it all back together.  Used and used up several
thin gauge feeler gauge blades to ease the seal home and lots of HYLOMAR to
make it slide in easier and seal afterwards.   
	The genuine parts from RN were easier to install than the aftermarket
variety of seals.  The cork gasket on the mainbearing cap from RN had some
kind of plastic coating that allowed the seal to be more easily installed
without tearing it up.  Buy some HYLOMAR gasket goo to put it back
together.  Recommended in the manual and by an old triumph mechanic as the
only thing that will seal up a triumph motorcycle.  If you are familiar
with english motorcycles, you will appreciate what a tribute that is. 
	Once again, I would live with it until it either gets much worse or you
feel the need to rebuild the engine.  There is just too much temptation to
go all the way once you have the engine out and half dismantled.
Aloha Peter.
 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 06:49:05 -0500
From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Pump/ Filter/ Pressure Questions

Are you sure the adapter is on the right way up.!!!!!!!! Remember if it is on
upside down the flow is reversed...or tries to be....an de filter she don`t like
dat. Right Brett.....I`ll never tell.

GNBull3@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 2/16/98 9:32:02, Ben Nibali wrote:
> <<I just swapped the awkward stock oil filter assembly on my '65 2.25 in
> >favor of a spin-on adapter (from British Pacific) and a Fram PH8A
> >filter. ..I started it up for the first time since the filter switch last
> night.
> >I immediately noticed an ominous metallic thumping coming from the
> >general area of the engine block.  I shut it off after about 20 seconds
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 53 lines)]
> Regards,
> George Bull

------------------------------

From: RykRover@aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 18:43:39 EST
Subject: Re: USA Land Rover Magazine

sounds great to me!!!!!
rgds, rick

------------------------------

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Subject: Re: Rear main seal
Date: Mon, 2 Mar 1998 05:21:45 -0700

Christopher,

My experience with a rear main seal was far more drematic. It started to go
on a Sat. and was fully blowen within a week. I tried to just "top it off"
for a while and eventually went to a new engine.

I've pulled the engine and would recomend triing the transmission pulling
end . This may not be the ultimate way to do it but it is sure to be at
best a shorter trip than pulling the block.

If you remove the floor and seat box from the interioir you should be ok.

If you have a budget for it the new engine option sure is nice. I got a
StageII race prepet performace headed 2.25 from England built and shiped
with a water pump and 1year warrenty for $2000.00 door to door. If you are
to have someone do the re-build work for you, you might just as well look
into the new engine deal. 

Give me acall if you like.

John Wood 303-774-9225

----------
> From: Christopher J. Clanton <clantoc@cscoe.ac.com>
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: Rear main seal
> Date: Thursday, February 19, 1998 9:12 AM
> I've got a leak on my rear main seal (nothing too bad, about
> a quarter size spot in the garage each day), and I'm wondering
> if anyone has experience on fixing/living with this leak.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 26 lines)]
>   Andersen Consulting
>   Minneapolis, MN USA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 20:39:55 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Trusty SIII 88" Canvas Top for sale

Con P. Seitl wrote:
> Dale Avery wrote:
> > Hello all!
> > I am selling Tigger, my 1973 SIII 88" Canvas Top.  SWMBO refuses to go
>          [ truncated by lro-lite (was 7 lines)]
> > to purchase a Range
> > Rover as a replacement.
> So sad to see another soul leave the fold :-(
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
> BTW, what the 'ell does SWMBO mean?
> Regards,  Con.......
SWMBO = Rose    :-)
      John

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 18:42:57 -0600
From: "C R. Wolfe M.D." <cwolfe@d.umn.edu>
Subject: LRO searching the archives

Is there a location on the web where I can search through the archives of the 
maiing lists for key words or
phrases?

cwolfe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 20:01:14 -0500 (EST)
From: David Russell <David_R@mindspring.com>
Subject: battery charge

I'm trying to determine if my battery is being charged in the 109 (not the
green one) and was looking through the official repair manual in search of
answers. First, the manual says to use a "good quality moving coil ammeter"
to test the system. Can I use a handheld multimeter (with the proper range)
set to measure amps or will it get fried? Any other suggestions?

On a related note, my 109 has 2 locations for a key. At first I thought
this was because it's been converted, more or less, to Diesel, neg earth
(it appears to have originally been a 1965 positive earth petrol) but the
repair manual indicates otherwise. A diagram of the "Layout of instruments
and controls, early Series II and IIA Petrol models" (and the Diesel models
as well) shows a key cylinder inside the "Lamp switch" labeled "Electrical
Services or ignition switch."

This corresponds with what happens when I put the key in and turn it: the
ammeter flutters somewhat uselessly, the turn signals work, the charging
warning lamp goes on, and the brake lights work. The 109 is started with a
seperate key, irregardless of the first key.

Is it possible the battery will not charge unless this electrical services
circut is _not_ on? Does a glowing "Charging warning light" mean it's _not_
charging or just that it hasn't _re-charged_?

Thanks all

David Russell
1997 Discovey SD 5 speed
1969 SIIA "Bugeye" 88" SW Petrol
1965? SIIA 109" P/U Diesel! Think "farm truck*", then roll it
1977 T***ta FJ40 Land Cruiser (sort of)
http://www.mindspring.com/~david_r
* as described to me by its po, Steve Denis

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 08:08:33 -0500
From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Subject: Re: Keep Trigger

So ...Ladies and Gentlemen, Boys and Girls...The truth begins to unfold. It
would now appear that the accused before you --namely one Dale Avery
knowingly and willfully attempted to deceive and to evoke sympathy in his
attempt to dump poor faithfull Tigger. In this regard it would appear he was
aided and abetted by his moll, his twenty five year bit of rumpy pumpy, the
strangely named SWMBO ( strange name ----must be Welsh ).The truth dear
jurists is not that he was under pressure from she who must be obeyed  BUT
it would appear from his own pathetic failings which he is desperate to
conceal...........YES. .........Flaccid posterior syndrome..........an
epidermis too tender to be placed on Rhino hide seats.This is no excuse for
such behaviour members of the jury.His pathetic attempt to explain away his
deviant conduct and defend  SWMBO only serves to emphasize his moral
turpitude (look it up you ignorant sods). Time will tell if  SWMBO is so
enamoured with our friend Mr. Avery when his posterior condition migrates,
as it surely will, to the other more susceptible parts of his anatomy or
even when her rear cross member is sagging ,springs shot and the ride
quality diminished. What sentence could possibly reflect our societies
abhorance of such conduct. Poor Tigger, what did he do to deserve such an
ignominious end. Dear jurists... what is your verdict

Peter wrote:

> Russell G. Dushin wrote:
> > Dale Avery, in a Moment of Weakness, Confessed:
> > ****
>          [ truncated by lro-lite (was 25 lines)]
> I agree,
>         Don't do it! Next she'll "let"  (make) you have a BMW!
> It's a slippery slope that only a Land Rover can climb. Consider the
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
> Cheers   Peter
> --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 21:11:03 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: battery charge

David Russell wrote:
> I'm trying to determine if my battery is being charged in the 109 (not the
> green one) and was looking through the official repair manual in search of
> answers. First, the manual says to use a "good quality moving coil ammeter"
> to test the system. Can I use a handheld multimeter (with the proper range)
> set to measure amps or will it get fried? Any other suggestions?
> On a related note, my 109 has 2 locations for a key. At first I thought
> this was because it's been converted, more or less, to Diesel, neg earth
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 23 lines)]
> circut is _not_ on? Does a glowing "Charging warning light" mean it's _not_
> charging or just that it hasn't _re-charged_?
A volt meter across the battery terminals is the easiest way to check
for charging. For propper charging you should see at least 13.4 volts at
the battery with the engine above idle and some load, say the lights on.
If the voltage is below this then you are not getting enough out of the
system.

  John and Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 21:21:00 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Keep Trigger

d.h.lowe wrote:
> So ...Ladies and Gentlemen, Boys and Girls...The truth begins to unfold. It
> would now appear that the accused before you --namely one Dale Avery
> knowingly and willfully attempted to deceive and to evoke sympathy in his
> attempt to dump poor faithfull Tigger. In this regard it would appear he was
> aided and abetted by his moll, his twenty five year bit of rumpy pumpy, the
> strangely named SWMBO ( strange name ----must be Welsh ).The truth dear
> jurists is not that he was under pressure from she who must be obeyed  BUT
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)]
> abhorance of such conduct. Poor Tigger, what did he do to deserve such an
> ignominious end. Dear jurists... what is your verdict

Guilty Guilty Guilty hang him at dawn from the nearest 101 rear
crossmember. Leave his corpse to rot at the closest Jeep dealer.
This scoundrel deserves the worst punishment imaginable. Cauterize his
nostrils so he will never smell 80/90 again! Rip out his finger nails so
grease may never accumilate there. Shave his head so that he may never
again have the thrill of brake fluid in his hair.

  Humbly submitted by John and Muddy

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 20:21:33 EST
Subject: Re: Keep Trigger... Keep Trigger...<chant>

Not having read 100% of this thread, I gather someone is being forced to trade
a series lr for a RR? What sense does that make on any planet?

Maybe we can help him by giving him a trial subscription to the CSO/RRO list?
That ought to cure that urge... I mean, I can understand getting the RR *in
addition to* the series rig; the RR will probably be the financial burden to
make the series look like a great proposition again...

pat
93  110

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 20:23:55 -0600
From: Wesley Harris <wharris@midmon.com>
Subject: Re: battery charge

 Can I use a handheld multimeter (with the proper range)
>set to measure amps or will it get fried? Any other suggestions?

You can use a DMM to measure current provided that you connect the meter in
SERIES with whatever it is you are attempting to measure.  You're probably
better off just checking the voltage like John said, across the battery
terminals, etc.  

Cheers,
Wes H
'64 88 in bits (but not for long, dammit!)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 17:38:55 -0800
From: Dale Avery <davery@ior.com>
Subject: More photos of Tigger and a comment by SWMBO

Jason added nine more photos of Tigger to the website he set up for me. 
it's at:

	http://www.up.edu/misc/tigger1.html

The new ones were taken with a digital camera and saved as JPEGs.  I
think they are a bit clearer than my initial entries.  So have a
look-see and let me know what you think.  My favorite is the one that
shows the two hats that all Landy owners must wear.  The first says
"Land Rover" and the second "Just Fix It".  If you're a 90 wt. addict
like me, a Landy is the only way to go!

Now a word or two from SWMBO, my darling wife:

Just a note in my defense...  ALL I wanted was to ride in a rig that I
could drink a cup of coffee in without spilling it all over myself. 
Dale said,"Oh, what would you think about a Range Rover?"  Place the
blame where it belongs, but I will still keep him.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 21:46:23 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Subject: Re: battery charge

On Thu, 19 Feb 1998, David Russell wrote:

> I'm trying to determine if my battery is being charged in the 109 (not the

Put a volt meter across the battery terminals.  If you don't see at least
13.5 VDC, you aren't charging.  If you see more than about 14.5 or 15 VDC
you are over-charging and probably have fried the battery.  In either
case, if you have the generator still, you can adjust the voltage
regulator.  Otherwise, you probably have a bad genny/alternattor.  Of
course,  before you do anything drastic like pull it check all the
connections.  

> On a related note, my 109 has 2 locations for a key. At first I thought

the normal setup is a key in the light switch which controls the ignition,
turnsignals, brake lights and heat.  The starter is operated by a push
button switch on the bulkhead, in the center, probably where you have a
second key.  A po has done somthing strange.  

David

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 21:45:13 EST
Subject: Re: ...a comment by SWMBO

In a message dated 2/19/98 8:42:15 PM, SWMBO wrote:

>Just a note in my defense...  ALL I wanted was to ride in a rig that I
>could drink a cup of coffee in without spilling it all over myself. 
>Dale said,"Oh, what would you think about a Range Rover?"  Place the
>blame where it belongs, but I will still keep him.

Berg, how do you manage it in FINSUP? Perhaps a two minute tutorial in coffee
drinking and duct-tape cup holders is in order... ok, we now know it *was
Dale* all along...

pat.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 22:04:25 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: More photos of Tigger and a comment by SWMBO

Dale Avery wrote:
> Now a word or two from SWMBO, my darling wife:
> Just a note in my defense...  ALL I wanted was to ride in a rig that I
> could drink a cup of coffee in without spilling it all over myself.
> Dale said,"Oh, what would you think about a STRAW !! 

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 22:29:34 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Ujoint part numbers

Part numbers for U-Joints:
These are NAPA numbers, but I think NAPA uses Spicer PN's.
2 15/16 cap to cap are PN 5-4x
3 7/32 cap to cap are 5-153x
My notes say the 5-4x are for the half shafts.

Cheers!!
John Dillingham
near Canton, GA
KF4NAS
LROA #1095
SoLaRoS #23
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 22:27:18 -0500
From: Shaun Oriold <soriold@worldchat.com>
Subject: D90 Sighting

I saw 2  defender 90s in Burlington, Ontario.   1 was a white one and
the other was a yellow.  the white one was driving on new street and the
other was in the chapters/future shop plaza  parked  near National bank.

are any of the owners on the list?

Shaun S. Oriold

------------------------------

From: "drew squires" <drewteri@concentric.net>
Subject: Re: USA Land Rover Magazine
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 23:43:24 -0500

Jim:
    Send me a Subscription card as soon as the're printed.  Definetly
interested.  Thanks & about time!!!

Drew.
drewteri@concentric.net
(Still looking. 109)

------------------------------

From: robot1@juno.com
Date: Thu, 19 Feb 1998 23:16:38 -0600
Subject: Caterpillar engines

There have been several good Cat engines made for trucks in the past five
or six years, but the Perkins thing looks to be an attempt at entering
the consumer market with cheap, efficient diesels. Cat has a proprietary,
patented, direct injection system which works extremely well and is
extremely reliable and easy to service.  I'm working on the project with
Cat at the moment. By spring of 99 there could be engines commercially
available in the 4 cylinder 115-140 bhp range, specifically designed as
automotive engines as opposed to the generator/air compressor duty
engines they now produce (limited torque/hp/rpm range)

I'm going to try to get one myself when they start test marketing them. 

Mark

Robot1@juno.com
1967 109 regular "sheila"

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

From: JSmallals@aol.com
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 01:43:42 EST
Subject: Re: USA Land Rover Magazine

I'm in...
James

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 11:36:15 +0100 (MET)
From: Paul Wakefield - Serco <Paul.Wakefield@esrin.esa.it>
Subject: re: Oil Pump/ Filter/ Pressure Reminisces

: Ben Nibali wrote:
: Another question:  How long can a 2.25 run without any oil?  I'm sure
: there is a delay in oil flow any time you change the filter because the
: pump has to first fill this void before feeding the engine.

This reminds me of a cautionary tale from my youth.

During an oil change on a car, I decided to take a spot of lunch. 

During my lunchbreak, the owner came back and collected his car, yes you 
guessed 
it, I had chosen to break approximately between the time of dropping the old 
oil 
and refilling with the new ......

I caught up with him 1/2 mile away and cautioned him against buggering off with 
a half-serviced car.

No ill-effects I am aware of were suffered (Fiat 127 Palio)

The moral of the story is that I always left with the car keys at lunchtime !!!!

Cheers,

Paul. 

------------------------------

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