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From: Ben Nibali <BNibali@dmtn.com>
Subject: Oil Pump/ Filter/ Pressure Questions
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 08:47:00 -0500

I just swapped the awkward stock oil filter assembly on my '65 2.25 in
favor of a spin-on adapter (from British Pacific) and a Fram PH8A
filter.  I'm sure I installed the adapter correctly (no I didn't put it
on upside down) and I had normal oil pressure when I ran the engine
last.  That was, however, about two months ago (due to clutch master
cylinder problems, now fixed).

I started it up for the first time since the filter switch last night.
I immediately noticed an ominous metallic thumping coming from the
general area of the engine block.  I shut it off after about 20 seconds
of running.  After poking around a bit, I decided the thumping was the
oil pressure gauge line (now slightly rerouted) smacking the inner
fender (sorry- wing).  So I started it up again and ran around to check
the line- no thumping here, seemed to be inside the engine.  I was
pretty concerned now so I only let it run maybe 30 seconds.  Just before
I shut it off, the clunking gradually abated, but I noticed that the oil
pressure gauge was still on the peg (zero) and the engine _seemed_ to
develop a miss.  The engine only ran for about 30 seconds.

My first question is this:  Could my oil pump have crapped out just
sitting in the garage for a couple months?  I suppose my next step is to
drop the pan and have a look at the oil pump filter and check the pump
itself.

Another question:  How long can a 2.25 run without any oil?  I'm sure
there is a delay in oil flow any time you change the filter because the
pump has to first fill this void before feeding the engine.  Is it
possible that the clunking I heard was just the oil pump pumping more
than normal quantities of oil as it filled the new filter?  I'd love to
believe this.  Maybe I'm being a wus and I just need to trust that the
pump will start feeding the engine before the engine starts to fry.

One more:  Since I had to disconnect the oil pressure gauge fitting from
the filter housing to complete the swap, some oil of course drained out
of that line.  I imagine that this air bubble would have to be displaced
before the gauge would read correctly.  How long would this take?  I'm
thinking it shouldn't take 30 seconds.

The weather is getting warmer here and I'm itching to get this thing out
of the garage.  But now I'm paralyzed by my (over-?) analysis of these
symptoms.  Needless to say, it is very important to me that I not toast
the engine by running it dry.

Thanks in advance,
Ben Nibali
Maryville, TN

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 08:42:00 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: Re: mallory distributors

>Does anyone have any experience with Mallory dual-point distributors on
>2.25 petrol engines?

Only thing I don't like is it isn't vac. advance. We've played with them,
had mixed results for all around use.

From: Mike Smith,  EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

From: Ben Nibali <BNibali@dmtn.com>
Subject: Oil Pump/ Filter/ Pressure Questions
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 08:28:00 -0500

I just swapped the awkward stock oil filter assembly on my '65 2.25 in
favor of a BritPac spin-on filter adapter.  I'm sure I installed the
adapter correctly (no I didn't put it on upside down) and I had normal
oil pressure when I ran the engine last.  That was, however, about two
months ago (due to clutch master cylinder problems, now fixed).

I started it up for the first time since the filter switch last night.
I immediately noticed an ominous metallic thumping coming from the
general area of the engine block.  I shut it off after about 20 seconds
of running.  After poking around a bit, I decided the thumping was the
oil pressure gauge line (now slightly rerouted) smacking the inner
fender (sorry- wing).  So I started it up again and ran around to check
the line- no thumping here, seemed to be inside the engine.  I was
pretty concerned now so I only let it run maybe 30 seconds.  Just before
I shut it off, the clunking gradually abated, but I noticed that the oil
pressure gauge was still on the peg (zero) and the engine _seemed_ to
develop a miss.  The engine only ran for about 30 seconds.

My first question is this:  Could my oil pump have crapped out just
sitting in the garage for a couple months?  I suppose my next step is to
drop the pan and have a look at the oil pump filter and check the pump
itself.

Another question:  How long can a 2.25 run without any oil?  I'm sure
there is a delay in oil flow any time you change the filter because the
pump has to first fill this void before feeding the engine.  Is it
possible that the clunking I heard was just the oil pump pumping more
than normal quantities of oil as it filled the new filter?  I'd love to
believe this.  Maybe I'm being a wus and I just need to trust that the
pump will start feeding the engine before the engine starts to fry.

One more:  Since I had to disconnect the oil pressure gauge fitting from
the filter housing to complete the swap, some oil of course drained out
of that line.  I imagine that this air bubble would have to be displaced
before the gauge would read correctly.  How long would this take?  I'm
thinking it shouldn't take 30 seconds.

The weather is getting warmer here and I'm itching to get this thing out
of the garage.  But now I'm paralyzed by my (over-?) analysis of these
symptoms.  Needless to say, it is very important to me that I not toast
the engine by running it dry.

Thanks in advance,
Ben Nibali
Maryville, TN

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 10:16:05 -0500
From: William Mitchell <mitchell@javanet.com>
Subject: Brake Fluid for IIA

I have read various places that it is important to use the right kind of
brake fluid in my 1965 IIA 109.  The P.O. had used Castrol GTLMA.  Would
someone please tell me what are acceptable brake fluids that are
available in the U.S.?  Thank you.
-- 
William H. Mitchell, Jr.          e-mail:  mitchell@javanet.com
ph:  (413) 256-0600               fx:  (413) 256-0654

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 11:33:16 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Brake Fluid for IIA

William Mitchell wrote:

> .  The P.O. had used Castrol GTLMA.  Would
> someone please tell me what are acceptable brake fluids that are
> available in the U.S.?  

The Castrol GTLMA is acceptable.

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 09:46:57 -0800
From: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Subject: Re: Brake Fluid for IIA

Con P. Seitl wrote:
> William Mitchell wrote:
> > .  The P.O. had used Castrol GTLMA.  Would
> > someone please tell me what are acceptable brake fluids that are
> > available in the U.S.?
> The Castrol GTLMA is acceptable.
> Con Seitl

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Con Seitl
> 1973 III 88 "Pig"
Con,
	Castrol GT LMA is the best and very available in the US.

http://www.mailbag.com/users/nosimport/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 11:55:01 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: RE: Oil Pump/Filter Pressure

Ben:  Just to be absolutely sure, when you installed the adapter, did you 
have the hole for the gauge etc to the front of the engine? I also doubt 
the pump would have "crapped out" just from sitting, but then again, it 
is a LR. I would also check the gasket under the adapter to be sure it's 
not covering one of the holes. There should be 4 holes in it, 2 for the 
bolts, and 2 for the oil passages. I admit it may be a long shot, but it 
is the last thing you worked on since you had this problem.

Good Luck, I know Nige is watching!

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 12:08:04 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Brake Fluid for IIA

Peter wrote:
> Con,
>         Castrol GT LMA is the best and very available in the US.

 Around here I don't like to say anything is the "best", there's always 
someone out there that's gonna smack me upside the head with "How can you 
say that...." It's like saying there is only one place in the world or 
some guy in the.....  ;-)
    But I can safely say that I agree with you, after all, I use it, and 
I'm never wrong, I think. :-)

Cheers,  

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: JB Kropp <JB@flycast.com>
Subject: Mechanics?
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 08:23:33 -0800

So I am now a proud owner of a '71 IIa!  I was wondering where the best
place to take a rover in the Bay area (preferably East)?  It is a solid
rig but need the trany rebuilt and a good tune up to start.  Any ideas?
JB

 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 18:10:23 +0100
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Firewall replacement

I am considering replacing the firewall in our 88" SIII diesel - has
anyone on the list tried this - what does it involve? what does it cost?
how long does it take? should the new one be snad-blasted and galvanised
before fitting?

adive welcome...

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
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e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 09:13:45 -0800
From: Dale Avery <davery@ior.com>
Subject: Trusty SIII 88" Canvas Top for sale

Hello all!

I am selling Tigger, my 1973 SIII 88" Canvas Top.  SWMBO refuses to go
camping and off-roading with me in it.  But she did give me permission
to purchase a Range
Rover as a replacement.  There are several photos of Tigger located at:

		http://www.up.edu/misc/tigger1/html

If that doesn't work, try:

		http://www.up.edu/misc/tigger1.html

Here is an extended description of the little bugger. 

One outrigger (right side) has a small rust hole in it.  The rear
crossmember is rusty with hole in it. It is still competent but could be
replaced sometime in the future. The frame is in good shape. The
left side is lumpy with some bondo (see photo mentioned above), the rest
of the vehicle is straight.

In the last 2 years or so
I have invested $13,000 in it, including original purchase price.  I put
on four new drums, all new brakes, including parking brakes,  three of
four wheels have new brake springs, all four have new brake cylinders,
new
master brake cylinder, new rubber brake hoses, replaced brake fluid with
silicon fluid.

I put in a new interior, all black new inner door covers and black
carpeting on an insulation package, a four speaker radio system (am
installing a
new 35 watt X 4 radio. Two speakers are in the doors, the other two are
mounted on the center hoop for the canvas top.

New radiator, new Turner engine (justed turned 6,000 miles), new 1 bbl
Weber carb, new intake and exhaust manifolds, new water pump, complete
new exhaust system, new clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing
along with new clutch master and slave cylinders.  Rebuilt tranny, new
Overdrive, added 2 1/2" electronic tach on left side of dash.  New Delco
67 amp alternator and rebuilt starter. Oh, yea, new rear half shafts.
New springs and shocks all around.  Used driver's side springs on both
left and right sides so rig sits a little higher on the right side.
I even installed new rear axle check straps.

New hoop set and canvas top, used tailgate from Marc Waitek.  New turn
signal/light switch, new heater switch, new light switch.  New I have
new door seals for drivers side door but haven't installed them yet.
New rubber floor mats in front and back.

I installed the English style wire basket headlight and taillight
protectors and a Hi-Lift Hi-jack mount in a vertical position on the
back of the rig.  I also installed new front bumper tow hoops.

I replaced the original LR front seats with a couple out of some little
import car.  They don't look bad and are much more comfortable than the
foam originals.  They even have springs! The orginal seats go with
Tigger, too.

I have fabricated a Garmin GPS II/III mount and bolted it on the
windshield frame just above and to the right of the steering wheel and
several inches left of the
rearview mirror.  I bolted the Garmin dash mount to it.  I also have a
GPS II/III DC wiring harness installed for this system.  The GPS and
harness don't go with the Rig unless you want to buy them separately. 

I've also installed new front Defender style vent seals.  It has a tow
hitch and
the universal U-Haul style wiring harness.

Tigger also has electronic
ignition.  The wheels are 16" running Pathfinder (Kelly-Springfield)
235/85r16 A/Ts which have an aggressive mud/snow type tread.  The
electrical system should be gone through, I recommend replacing the
U-joints sometime in the future.  The spare can be mounted on either the
hood
or just behind the front seats. 

I just changed the oil (Castrol 10W40) and I have installed 
a spin-on oil filter adaptor so use PH8A filters.  Also dumped all the
90 wt gear oil out of the diffs, tranny, OD, and T-case and replaced
it.  Then greased the U-joints..   I'll adjust the brakes tomorrow.

Tigger has two gas tanks.  The auxilliary has a positive ground sender
unit, so the gauge reads backward. The gas gauge only reads
half way.  Think cleaning up the electrical contacts MAY fix that
problem.

The price is $8,500, firm.  If you have any questions, either e-mail or
phone me (509-467-1344).
Tigger, SWMBO, and I are located in Spokane, WA.

------------------------------

From: TBache9248@aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 12:23:56 EST
Subject: Re:   computers-no L-R content

Hi List,
Looking for some computer items someone may have lurking on a shelf.
1-Type 1 8 pin PCMCIA modem card for a laptop computer
1-4x or 8x CD-ROM external drive
1-486 SLX Winbook laptop that has a 8MB chip in it but has a badf hard drive
or screen.  I need the upgrade chip.
Any one know of websites where used stuff is bought and sold?

Thanks,

Tom Bache

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 11:12:21 -0800 (PST)
From: Mike Macdonald <mkmacd@seanet.com>
Subject: Needed - Thermostat for a 2.0L Engine

Anyone out there got a source for the thermostat for a '57 2.0 liter engine?
I think that may be all that I need to fix the last of my (current) woes.

Thanks in advance.

Mike MacDonald
(253) 926-0879

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 15:26:40 -0500
From: Jeff Goldman <roverboy@gis.net>
Subject: Painting suspension parts, axle, etc...

  OK, I've heard everything on how to paint a frame or body. What about
suspension items, steering components, and axles, propshafts, etc. I'm
talking Series old, surface rusty, corroded, look under your truck and
you'll know what I mean, axles and such. What's the best prep and paint
solution???

Jeff G.

Boston, MA
1971 88" Series IIA Land Rover - needing frame
1990 Range Rover County - hybrid fodder (ask about parts, especially body)
1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD - the anomaly, albeit a competently quick 4x4
1991 Range Rover Hunter - basically OME-ified

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 15:57:21 -0500
From: Jan Ben <ben@lucent.com>
Subject: lrsupermarket URL, please.?

damn, can't find the bookmark.. lrs.com? lrsupermarket.com?..
'elp 'elp 'elp...
thx
jan

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 16:04:17 -0500
From: Jan Ben <ben@lucent.com>
Subject: lrsupermkt URL

neeever mind.. got it.. thx
Jan

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 22:07:53 +0100
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Painting suspension parts, axle, etc...

Ahh - now you are talking my hobby-horse.

Rid your underside of all waxy rustrproofing products - waste of time,
space and money, added weight and latent camoflage for unseen rust IMHO.

Scrape, sand, grind, brush, dissolve, burn, - remove it.
bash and beat it, repair all holes. Blow interior rust out with
compressed air.

Clean the entire chassis, preferably in summer, preferably indoors for
several days. Use steel brush on angle grinder.

Wash with detergent and high pressure water jet (steam prefferred)

Indoors again, dry for a day.

Find a good (poisonous?) rust paint (like they use for painting farm
machinery, bridges etc. - two coats - preferably with spray gun - get
inside the frame where you can. If you can heat the workshop so that the
metal is warm - it helps. (Use a good breathing apparatus eh?)

Let it harden for a day.

Next - three spray coats of high quality marine enamel (black or the
flavour of your taste) Use a hardner in the second coat.

Let it dry hard - give it a day or two.

Then chuck all the bodywork back on and this frame will still look good
in two years. I give mine a high pressure wash at least once a month,
and once a year they get a couple of spray coats. Rust is very rare,
though sometimes encountered in those troublesome spots around the
engine where its difficult to get at.

On the springs subject (leaf-springs) wash these regularly and blow the
grit and sand out between the leaves. (Use a jack to lift the axle
enough to open the leaves as much as possible). Then spray gearbox (not
engine) oil in between the leaves with a underseal gun.

I have long since given up keeping the topside shining pretty, but the
underside is, IMHO, far more important, and much more pleasure when you
have to crawl under - and you get a few compliments from mechanics,
fellow roverites, and not least - inspectors.

OK - you can manage with less - but you did ask!

Good luck

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@primail.pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Keep Trigger
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 98 16:13:08 EST

Dale Avery, in a Moment of Weakness, Confessed:

****
Hello all!

I am selling Tigger, my 1973 SIII 88" Canvas Top.  SWMBO refuses to go
camping and off-roading with me in it.  But she did give me permission
to purchase a Range Rover as a replacement.
****

Hold it right there....do yourself a favor.  Get a new woman.  One
that likes the smell of 90 weight.  This one's no good.  She'll nag
you all your life.  Lay down the gauntlet.  It's Trigger with her 
or it's Trigger with that li'l lass over there (or it's Trigger with
Rosie and her five sisters).  No woman is worth selling your rover
for. Plenty more fish in the sea and some of them swim perfectly
well in mud.

Be Strong, mate,
rd/nige

------------------------------

From: caloccia@senie.com
Date: 16 Feb 1998 21:30:17 -0000
Subject: Re: No LR content just funny

Please, kindly keep it to LR content.

if everyone posted just one non-land rover post per day, the garbage
would be soo deep even land rovers couldn't wade through it.

    Cheers,
          Bill Caloccia			wpc@Caloccia.Net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 15:46:37 -0800
From: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Subject: Re: Keep Trigger

Russell G. Dushin wrote:
> Dale Avery, in a Moment of Weakness, Confessed:
> ****
> Hello all!
> I am selling Tigger, my 1973 SIII 88" Canvas Top.  SWMBO refuses to go
> camping and off-roading with me in it.  But she did give me permission
> to purchase a Range Rover as a replacement.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 22 lines)]
> Be Strong, mate,
> rd/nige
I agree,
	Don't do it! Next she'll "let"  (make) you have a BMW!
It's a slippery slope that only a Land Rover can climb. Consider the
Land Rover a sincerity test of your relationship. It took alot of women
before I found the right one ;-).  Now I have 4 Land Rovers. Life can be
good.
Cheers   Peter 
--

------------------------------

From: MurphyK1@psgvl.ps.ge.com
Subject: RE: Painting suspension parts, axle, etc...
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 17:53:35 -0500

Adrian mentioned keeping the room warm for painting....  

Since I have been painting in a rented storage unit that has no heat, it
became imperative that I heat it.  The best method I found was to buy a
propane tank and a 15,000 btu heater which attaches to the tank.  The heater
cost me $15 at Home Depot.  

Since I am also using an air compressor to paint and sandblast and have
limited access to electricity, I had to avoid electric heaters for fear of
blowing a fuse with everything going at once.

The propane heater works great... no explosions yet with the fumes!

Kevin

------------------------------

From: "Eyres, Richard RP" <Eyres.Richard.RP@bhp.com.au>
Subject: RE: Firewall replacement
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 11:53:00 +1100

I am considering replacing the firewall in our 88" SIII diesel - has
anyone on the list tried this - what does it involve? what does it cost?
how long does it take? should the new one be snad-blasted and galvanised
before fitting?

adive welcome...

Adrian Redmond

I replaced the firewall on my 1973 S3 some 2 1/2 years ago. This was due
to severe and terminal rot in the original firewall, to the extent that
it was only the paint left. I knew it was rusty in places before I
started to dismantle everything, but the more bits I removed the less
and less firewall was revealed. What was originally going to be a simple
patch up and repaint suddenly became more major. I managed to source a
halfway reasonable 'pre loved' firewall from a wrecker and minus only a
couple of limbs commenced the replacement.
 I didn't galvanize the replacement due to concerns about distortion.
Sandblastings OK, but avoid 'stripper dipping' as it can be difficult to
remove residue from inside. Make sure you get all the sand out though. I
sprayed all the inside bits I could reach with a couple of cans of 'cold
galvanizing zinc paint, followed by heaps of LPDS3 (like thinner Waxoyl
in aerosol form) I turned the new firewall on its sides and upside down
to ensure good penetration and coverage.
Basically, replacing the firewall is a 'nuts and bolts' job and is
fairly straight forward. The most intimidating part was disconnecting
all the wires from behind the dash (not to bad, just make sure you label
everything) If all you're doing is swapping the firewall, then assuming
your replacement is prepared and ready to fit, I guess it should be
possible to do the job in a (full)weekend, espessially if you have an
assistant. Badly rusted nuts and bolts may slow things down a bit more
too. You could probably presoak all accessible nuts and bolts with a
suitable penetrating oil for a week or so before hand, which will help.
In my case I was off the road for over 3 months, but that was because
having discovered my planned 'insitu' repair was not on, I then had to
source and refurbish a replacement, then I ended up respraying the whole
truck, fitting new bake pipes, sound proofing, door seals, etc etc. Oh,
you may well need to replace the big bolts attaching the firewall to the
outriggers (mine were badly 'waisted') In fact it might be a good idea
to 'loosen' these bolts in advance.
Best of luck,
 Richard 1973 S3 SWB
New Zealand

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 06:38:01 -0500
From: DAVID H LOWE <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Subject: Re: Keep Trigger

Don`t do it........Compromise......Keep Tigger and buy a Rangie.....ask her
for a loan.Surely she would love to supplement your income.It is true love
isn`t it.

Peter wrote:

> Russell G. Dushin wrote:
> > Dale Avery, in a Moment of Weakness, Confessed:
> > ****
>          [ truncated by lro-lite (was 25 lines)]
> I agree,
>         Don't do it! Next she'll "let"  (make) you have a BMW!
> It's a slippery slope that only a Land Rover can climb. Consider the
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
> Cheers   Peter
> --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 19:01:19 -0500
From: Bill Marcy <wpmarcy@capital.net>
Subject: Re: lrsupermkt URL

And what was it?

At 04:04 PM 2/16/98 -0500, you wrote:
>neeever mind.. got it.. thx
>Jan

----------------
ICQ UIN: 4216636

------------------------------

From: "Mark Freeman" <mfreeman@iland.net>
Subject: Mallory distributor, 2.25 engine
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 18:17:55 -0600

 David Scheidt asked:
Does anyone have any experience with Mallory dual-point distributors on
2.25 petrol engines?  

I have been using the dual point Mallory on my Series III 88 for the past
three years.  Since installing the Mallory I have driven 15,000 miles
without distributor problems .  I purchased it from Victoria British in
Kansas City and paid just over $200.   
To say I am happy with the distributor would be a gross understatement. 
After 20 + years of British car ownership I have worked on, rebuilt and
tried to set points on worn out Lucas distributors a lot.  The Mallory
helps make my car a reliable daily driver. I recommend it.

Installation is straightforward:  Once you  orient the distributor the way
you want it in the engine compartment, install the old drive lug off the
Lucas distributor onto the Mallory's shaft then drill the shaft to accept
the split pin that holds the lug the shaft.  

Mark Freeman

Series III 88 Petrol
Series III 109 one tonne hybrid
1997 Discovery

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 19:21:27 EST
Subject: Re:  Firewall replacement

In a message dated 2/16/98 12:14:56 PM, you wrote:

>I am considering replacing the firewall in our 88" SIII diesel - has
>anyone on the list tried this - what does it involve? what does it cost?
>how long does it take? should the new one be snad-blasted and galvanised
>before fitting?

You can skip the snad-blasting, but I highly recommend snot-blasting. ;-)

If you do decide to galvanize the new one, it shouldn't have to be sand-
blasted because chances are, they'll dip it in nuclear ooze to remove surface
impurities, old paint,  aluminum rivets and fittings, etc. Just don't put
bolts in the door hinge holes, I remember someone commenting how someone else
did that and it kinda welded them in. 

------------------------------

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Subject: Check out British Bulldog Site
Date: Sun, 1 Mar 1998 09:44:35 -0700

Hey All!

I suggest checking out the Britsih Bulldog site. They have a real time chat
room. It seems cool. Not enough people on it yet though. I seem to keep
missing all the conversaiton.

John

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 20:43:04 -0500
From: Jeff Goldman <roverboy@gis.net>
Subject: Re: No homage to Lucas god

At 11:59 AM 2/15/98 -0500, you wrote:
>    After having to adjust the points on my V-8  5 times just to drive
>from home to the shop,  I decided to see if the rumor was true; that a
>Buick HEI would fit in a Rover V-8.
>    To make a long story short (besides hunting through junkyards to
>find an elusive Buick V-8 HEI), it only took about 2.5 hours to make the
>conversion.  The hybrid runs like it has a new engine!
>    I won't bore the list with details but if anyone wants details I'll
>be glad to explain the process step by step.

  I'd like to hear about it. I'd also like to hear about you're 100"
hybrid, as I'm in the process of building such a beast based on a '90 Range
Rover (retaining 3.9L and auto-box, a '66 SIIA, and Defender front end...

Jeff G.

Boston, MA
1971 88" Series IIA Land Rover - needing frame
1990 Range Rover County - hybrid fodder (ask about parts, especially body)
1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD - the anomaly, albeit a competently quick 4x4
1991 Range Rover Hunter - basically OME-ified

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 21:06:42 -0500
From: Brett Storey <brstore@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Pump/ Filter/ Pressure Questions

Ben Nibali asks  How long can a 2.25 run without any oil?

Well, several years ago, after installing a fresh PH8A with the then new
anti drain back seal to what turned out to be an up side down spin on oil
filter adapter, my 88 managed to go 12 miles with no oil circulating before
the engine seized up. That was fun.

Brett

------------------------------

From: "Mitch" <mstockdale@pop3.mho.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 19:08:34 +0000
Subject: D90 Prices

30K for a four year old, beat up in the woods, loaded up with more 
crap than a tiauanna taxi.  Hell no I can get a clean one from some 
yuppie for less than 20K. And after I add what I want its still 
less than 30K  Face it 30K is a pipe dream.  You might as well be 
burried in it now cause youll spend the rest of time trying to find a 
buyer at that price.  Unless they breed only Blondes and Circus 
patrons out there.
J. Mitchell Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 09:27:54 -0500
From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Subject: Re: Door adjustment!!

Are you slackening the two bolts that hold the bracket to the bulkhead? Are the
brass balls in the hinge in good condition or worn out.Suggest.....Close
door......Slacken the bulkhead bolts........Adjust the hinge pins and lock
washers....check that the door is aligned and tighten the bukhead bolts.Good
luck.

Olafur Agust Axelsson wrote:

> Hi!
> Maybe this doesnt sound much at all - but Im really having real
> difficulties adjusting the passenger door of my ´66 S2a. I think Ive tried
> everything to make it close properly - but the thing just wont close fully!
> - I think Im pretty sure it has to be adjusted to sit a bit higher - but
> dont seem to be able to tilt the hatches more! -  Does anyone know the
> ultimate trick of adjustment?
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
> olafura@hi.is       http://www.hi.is/~olafura
> "H2O is hot water, and CO2 is cold water"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 21:48:04 -0500
From: Winn Bearden <wbearden@americus.net>
Subject: Re: No homage to Lucas god

I'm working on a web page at www.americus.net/~wbearden.  I'll have the info up
shortly.

Jeff Goldman wrote:

> At 11:59 AM 2/15/98 -0500, you wrote:
> >    After having to adjust the points on my V-8  5 times just to drive
> >from home to the shop,  I decided to see if the rumor was true; that a
>          [ truncated by lro-lite (was 9 lines)]
> >    I won't bore the list with details but if anyone wants details I'll
> >be glad to explain the process step by step.
>   I'd like to hear about it. I'd also like to hear about you're 100"
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
> 1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD - the anomaly, albeit a competently quick 4x4
> 1991 Range Rover Hunter - basically OME-ified

--
Winn Bearden
P.O. Box 464
Americus, GA 31709
912-924-6513 (H)
912-928-4984 (CELL)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 22:22:52 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Subject: Throttle shaft breakage

I had a failure of my throttle linkage over the weekend that I had never
thought about.  The control rod from the throttle shaft to the cross shaft
is retained by two clips.  One of the clips has taken a vacation without
the rest of the Rover, and consequently that end of the control rod worked
its way free.  I put it back in place and put some duck tape on it.  The
next morning I drilled a hole in the end of the shaft and used a cotter
key to retain it.  

The whole setup looks like a poor arangement to me;  there is nothing but 
spring tension holding the linkage clips in place, and if they are lost,
the truck is more or less undrivable.  (I don't know how long the duck
tape would have held things together;  it did maybe 30 miles on pretty
smooth roads)  Some sort of mechanical arrangement, like the cotter key,
seems better suited to the enviornment in which Land-Rovers get abused.
Has anyone seen this sort of failure before?   I think that a pair of
these clips (Part no. 531394) is going into my carried all the time spares
box. 

David/Mr. Sinclair

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 10:42:25 -0500
From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Subject: Re: Trusty SIII 88" Canvas Top for sale

Dale  my son ,if a compromise is not in the cards may I suggest another
approach...........Short Term Leasing.........No.... not the vehicle.....the
other! ! ! !

Dale Avery wrote:

> Hello all!
> I am selling Tigger, my 1973 SIII 88" Canvas Top.  SWMBO refuses to go
> camping and off-roading with me in it.  But she did give me permission
> to purchase a Range
> Rover as a replacement.  There are several photos of Tigger located at:
>                 http://www.up.edu/misc/tigger1/html

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 91 lines)]
> phone me (509-467-1344).
> Tigger, SWMBO, and I are located in Spokane, WA.

------------------------------

From: lndrvr@ldd.net (BRIAN WILLOUGHBY)
Subject: A Volvo Diesel Tutorial (no LR content)
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 21:44:12 -0600

The Swedish firm of AB Volvo is the largest industrial concern in all of
Scandinavia.  Most people are familiar with this corporation through its
cars which are either terribly boring or terribly fun depending on whether
you own one and which model you own.  Considering the prevailing climate of
Sweden, it is probably not too surprising to find that Volvo, when compared
to other European makes like Peugeot and Mercedes-Benz, was slow to
introduce diesel engines in its cars, waiting, in fact, until the
late-1970s.  (We all know that diesels don't like to run very well in cold
weather.)  This engine was the Volvo-built D20 (which someone on the list
mentioned earlier).  It was a four cylinder diesel of 2 litres'
displacement and it wasn't used for long; by 1983 it had been replaced by a
6-cylinder Volkswagen truck engine known in Volvo circles as the B24. 
Later, this Volkswagen engine would be fitted with a turbocharger and in
either guise it is easy to identify:  look for the "Auto Union" circles
(like what you see on an Audi's grille) on the valve cover.  I don't know
this for certain, though I don't believe that the D20 is in anyway related
to the B20 as was suggested; the B20 had been out of production for a
number of years prior to the appearance of the D20.  Volvo nomenclature is
rather simple:  B=benzin (petrol/gasoline in Swedish), D=diesel and the
number represents the displacement (multiply it by 0.1 to obtain litres). 
The B24 is the only diesel engine ever sold in the U.S. in its cars. 
Coincidentally, Volvo also offered a 1.6 litre diesel in its Dutch-made
cars (though these models were never exported to the U.S.)

However, Volvo has several divisions.  Volvo Bolinder Munktell (i.e. Volvo
BM) produces heavy contruction equipment (which is marketed in the U.S.)
powered by huge, Volvo-built diesel powerplants.  Formerly, Volvo BM also
manufactured petrol- and diesel-powered agricultural tractors yet that part
of the business was spun-off into a company known as Valmet.  Volvo's truck
division also produces large, technologically advanced diesels that compete
against Cummins and Detroit.  Of course, none of these engines are suitable
for use in cars or small trucks.

However, this whole thing got started by the mention of a Volvo marine
diesel.  Volvo's marine division is called Volvo Penta and it has been a
very respected supplier of inboard and inboard-outboard marine engines for
ages.  Early Pentas were built from Volvo car engines and it is widely
known in Volvo circles that one way to make your car into a real screamer
was to install one of the much higher output Pentas.  A frequent swap was
to install a Penta B18 in place of the B18D normally fitted to PV544s and
122Ss since it boasted 20 more hp!  Yes, current Penta petrol engines use
either Ford (302 V8) or GM (181 I-4, 262 I-6, 350 V8, 454 V8 and 502 V8)
blocks only--everything else is designed and made by Penta.

Penta diesels are pure Volvo from start to finish though they are not
related to any car engine.  Five four-cylinder models are currently
available:  two of these engines are the inboard-outboard AD31L rated at
120 propshaft hp at 3800 rpm and the AD31P rated at 139 propshaft hp at
4000 rpm.  Both displace 2.4 litres and both are turbocharged.  The TMD31L
(94 hp at 3800 rpm), the TAMD31L (120 hp at 3800 rpm) and the TAMD31P (139
hp at 3900 rpm) are the four-cylinder, 2.4 litre turbocharged inboard
units.  Penta also offers a range of 8 six-cylinder turbocharged diesels
ranging from 139 to 230 hp.

Anyhow, hope that helps.  And I apoligize for its length and any mistakes.

Brian

1960 Land-Rover Series II 88" S.W.
1963 Volvo PV544 Sport (wouldn't you know it!)
1987 Volvo 240DL (what a surprise!)

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 22:55:38 EST
Subject: Re:  A Volvo Diesel Tutorial (no LR content)

In a message dated 2/16/98 10:46:20 PM, you wrote:

> Volvo nomenclature is
>rather simple:  B=benzin (petrol/gasoline in Swedish), D=diesel and the
>number represents the displacement (multiply it by 0.1 to obtain litres). 
>The B24 is the only diesel engine ever sold in the U.S. in its cars.

So, that would make the B24 a "multi-fuel" engine? Just put whatever's handy
in the tank...

pat
93 "B39, not diesel" 110

------------------------------

From: rovah@agate.net
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 01:11:47 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Winter Romp pics, May event info...

Just thought I'd let folks know that I posted some pics from the Winter
Romp held this weekend on the DERLCs website.  There's also some
information about our May event and some updated pics of my RR/Chevy engine
conversion.

Cheers!  John

John Cassidy
Bangor, Maine USA

The Downeast Land Rover Club, <http://www.agate.net/~rovah/>
X0 of the V(irtual)MFA 323rd Cougars/Flying GSC's F/A-18 Hornet game
<http://www.tstonramp.com/~kahuna/index.html>

2 Wheels: Ducati M900, Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S
4 Wheels: 1998 SE Discovery, 1987 Range Rover-"Smedley," 1966 Series IIA
88", 1972 Series III 88"-"SWAMBO" 1963 Unimog 404.1-S "The Caterpiller"

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 09:26:44 +0000
Subject: Re: Throttle shaft breakage

Yep, been there, done that!

About eighteen months ago, I had a bit of ignition trouble. Within a few
miles of picking it from a
specialist in the Fens (who did quite a good job), one of the clips decided
to come undone.
Of course, this was going up the only hill in Ely - probably the only hill
for 50 miles or so...

The clip was still on the rod, so it was a simple matter to clip it back
one. Alas, the car I was following had scarpered off to Cambridge.

In the following months,  I ended up rebuilding much of the linkage. I
replaced all the springs at the carb end, and some of the other bits. Also,
I found that the clips had worn cuts into the rods.
20 years of accelerating and decelerating must take its toll I guess.
This added more slack.
My father had great fun reducing the size of some 6mm steel he had down to
right diameter, on the lathe!

LR Fasteners know all these little bits, but some are quite pricey, so
beware!

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

david@infocom.com on 02/17/98 03:22:52 AM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Throttle shaft breakage

I had a failure of my throttle linkage over the weekend that I had never
thought about.  The control rod from the throttle shaft to the cross shaft
is retained by two clips.  One of the clips has taken a vacation without
the rest of the Rover, and consequently that end of the control rod worked
its way free.  I put it back in place and put some duck tape on it.  The
next morning I drilled a hole in the end of the shaft and used a cotter
key to retain it.
The whole setup looks like a poor arangement to me;  there is nothing but
spring tension holding the linkage clips in place, and if they are lost,
the truck is more or less undrivable.  (I don't know how long the duck
tape would have held things together;  it did maybe 30 miles on pretty
smooth roads)  Some sort of mechanical arrangement, like the cotter key,
seems better suited to the enviornment in which Land-Rovers get abused.
Has anyone seen this sort of failure before?   I think that a pair of
these clips (Part no. 531394) is going into my carried all the time spares
box.
David/Mr. Sinclair

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Feb 1998 06:40:07 -0500
From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Subject: Neat tool

For Christmas, Boss Lady gave me a neat gadget called a Uni-Lite, which
looks somewhat like eyeglsses, but with little flashlights at eyebrow
level. Each light is powered by two AAA batteries. They are great for
working under a Land Rover, because they illuminate whatever you are
facing. I have not seen them for sale in the U S, but they are popular in
Europe. There is an Austrian comedy show in which a policeman with
cat-burglar tendencies wears a set.

Is there a U. S. source? The manufacturer is Uni-Lite International,
Redditch, England. I used mine last night for emergency repairs, and I'll
never be without it again.

                                         Wool Camp in Iceland
    _____  Check out Icelandic wool:     May 15-22: Participants
___(_____) http://www.dmv.com/~iceland   learn about Icelandic
|Baby the\                               wool, while spouses
|1969 Land\_===__     Come to            explore wilderness,
|  ___Rover   ___|o   Wool Camp          hiking and motoring
|_/ . \______/ . ||   in Iceland!        in mountain valleys.
___\_/________\_/________________________________________________
Ned Heite Camden, DE  http://home.dmv.com/~eheite/index.html  

------------------------------

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