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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 07:34:41 EST
Subject: Re:  conversions

In a message dated 2/12/98 5:44:48 AM, tony wrote:

>states that all the conversions use a rangerover thansferbox. i was talking
>to ian ashcroft and he uses a rangerover transfer box with a gm auto tranny
>this sounds like a good idea. but i dont want a permanent 4x4. 

So you could put in FWHs and unlock them...

<start flamefest>

then just drive around with the diff locked...

<activate anti-flame shields>

and climb in and out of the truck whenever you deemed it necessary to have
4WD...

<aaaargh... just like a toyota>

or look at those Minerva land Rovers. I think Huub or Franz in Europe know
about them; they are 4x2.

pat 
93  110

------------------------------

From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Subject: Fw: Say What?
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 21:57:19 +1100

No, but I certainly was!  I changed the sentence but forgot to re-read
it.  I wonder what a "goling" is?

Regards,

Ron
>TO: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
>Subject: How to change a flat tire?
>Ron:
>On Wed, 11 Feb 1998 21:27:30 +1100, wou wrote: "I don't quite a bit of
>changing to get lots of practice before goling bush."

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
>Am I missing something here?
>Paul

------------------------------

From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Subject: Re:Rings
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 21:55:29 +1100

Hank  wrote:
>As in most cases, crude sexual examples can assist an otherwise poor
memory.

Yep, that's how I remember which are stalactites  and stalacmites in caves.
When the tites come down the mites go up.
Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, NSW, Australia

'86 Range Rover 4.6L auto (The Last Aquila)
'71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660 1725cc manual
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc auto
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc manual

Editor, Hillman Owners Club of Australia Newsletter
check my home page at http://www.users.bigpond.com/hillman
for Hillman and Rover

------------------------------

From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: How to change a flat tire?
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 21:48:48 +1100

John & Muddy wrote:
>To avoid pinching the tube with the tire irons you can tap the
>bead back over the rim with a hammer while standing on the tire.

Not desirable.  The hammer could damage the bead.  A rubber mallet maybe,
but even then, with good tyre levers and plenty of soapy water, you won't
need the mallet to get the tyre over the rim
Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, NSW, Australia

'86 Range Rover 4.6L auto (The Last Aquila)
'71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660 1725cc manual
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc auto
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc manual

Editor, Hillman Owners Club of Australia Newsletter
check my home page at http://www.users.bigpond.com/hillman
for Hillman and Rover

------------------------------

From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@mail.biddeford.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 07:53:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Wheels, 

About how to straighten wheels:

> On 19 Nov 97 at 18:39, Steve Fullwood wrote:
>   When doing so the tire shop said my wheels were almost bent
>  beyond balancing. 
> I have a set of wheels which had bent centers causing a large wobble which 
> my tire shop could not correct by weights..  I used a steel bar across the 
> rim and a huge c clamp through the center hole to straighten them, measuring the distance to the 
> lug holes with a set of calipers, pulling from the appropriate side until 
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 19 lines)]
> Ronnie
> Bowdoin, Maine, USA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 08:27:13 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: Re: Observations (no good content)

Thanks for the info. We have a 1994 D90 for sale for 25,000 or best offer,
and a few of the interested people started quoting me Kelley Blue Books
stuff, so I'm glad to see others think the blue book isn't quite correct
either. Does anyone know of a page that has real world info. and values of
NAS Defenders? I want to keep our used Rovers priced mid to low market. I
know our local LR dealer recently sold a 18,000 mile D110 for 49,995.
(ouch) Kelley doesn't even offer information on the 110.
As for my RR... I guess John is right... it just wanted to spend some
"quality time" with me in the shop. ;-)

New observation... I was told about this guy down south in the US. "Bear
Valley Land Rover" or something like that, has  a web page but I can't
remember the address. (web page is very fancy, but from the photos it looks
like he works out of his suburban driveway, not a shop or anything). Anyway
the guy recently sold a 1997 Tdi 110 to a fellow here in New England, and I
guess he has a steady stream of new, or almost new Tdi 110's coming into
the US for resale. (yeah, I don't know how he is doing it either). What I
was told was that they are not imported as cars. They are imported as
"delivery trucks" and therefore don't need to meet any requirements? or DOT
or anything? I'm looking into it.
I know the import subject has been beaten to death, but here is a guy that
is doing it (legal or not I don't know) but it might be a loophole that
works. I'm sure as his are all for resale it must be illegal, but???
Thought I'd pass that along.

From: Mike Smith,  EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 07:57:35 -0800
From: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Subject: Re: Erratic Running Engine.

Lawrence Lee wrote:
> Hello all,
> To those who offered advice thanks for all of them.
> I have finally solved the problem.
> Faulty High Tension leads. Pulled them out, checked them thru a multimeter,
> no breaks. Fitted new ones since every other suspected part had been

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 24 lines)]
> 12 Tagore Drive, Singapore 787621
> Tel: 453 8200  DID: 450 6005  Fax: 453 8600
Just a note on this Ignition lead thing.
	I own an import parts warehouse and been in the biz since my 1st LR in
'71. I often "figger out" alternative parts to use on my 4 LRs. I have
found that ignition wire set for '80-84 Toyota Starlet work great! (even
better than original) excellent dust boot that keep the crap out of the
plug holes. Usually pretty cheap. The best (IMO) are Bosch retailing for
$20.00. Check'em out.   Cheers  Peter 
-- 
http://www.mailbag.com/users/nosimport/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 09:44:59 -0500 (EST)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re: Observations (no good content)

>New observation... I was told about this guy down south in the US. "Bear
>Valley Land Rover" or something like that, has  a web page but I can't
>remember the address. (web page is very fancy, but from the photos it looks
>like he works out of his suburban driveway, not a shop or anything).

The URL for this guy is www.bvlandrovers.com

I haven't been able to view the pictures yet but I am dying to see what he
has there.

Keith

1961 Series II 88"
Ottawa

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 09:56:46 -0500
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Subject: Wiring woes

Mike Dryfoos <mikedr@MICROSOFT.com> wrote:

>A plague of Lucas demons seem to have infected by '71 SIIA.  It started with
>the car dying whenever I turned on the headlights, and has gone through
>stages like killing the car when the brake lights...

>Is there any way to kill these demons besides rewiring the whole blasted
>car?

Ummm...you could try upgrading to Lucas '95.  ;-)  Couldn't resist that...
Actually, check all the ground conections first, especially the battery
connections.  With corrosion in those places, it seems like the system can
only handle one thing at a time, and if you try to do two, everything craps
out.  Do the lights dim when you honk the horn?  A sure sign.  Adding extra
ground straps/wires (I have five, ranging from 2 to 8 ga) helps prevent this.

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 09:56:48 -0500
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Subject: Postmortem

Wayne Haight <whaight@hawaii.edu> wrote:

>It saddens me to announce the death of my beloved 1970 Series IIA SWB.
>She was involved in an accident....

I'm very sorry for your loss...sounds like it's time for a wake, tho'.
Dixon, grab that bottle of single malt and I'll join you....

While vehicles and parts on the islands might be very much more dear than
stateside (isn't everything?) I've always considered $1,000 to be the
bottom line for a rover.  Even at this price, a burned out hulk should be
able to be parted out and still net a profit for the buyer.  I hope you are
alright and find a replacement for Kololohi soon....

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 09:56:50 -0500
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Subject: Bead breaking

WRT this thread...and i'd run very far away from the starting ether method
(I've launched 55 gal barrels 30' in the air - purposely - with starting
fluid), here's the lazy man's method.  Let the atmosphere do the work for
you.  If you have a suitable length of vacuum hose, unscrew the schrader
valve and attach the valve stem to a manifold vacuum port.  The engine at
idle will soon pull enough of a vacuum  - evenly - all over the tire to
break any bead.  Drink a cold frothy while you contemplate your upcoming
labors...

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-Rover is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 09:19:59 -0800
From: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Subject: Re: Bead breaking

A. P. "Sandy" Grice wrote:
> WRT this thread...and i'd run very far away from the starting ether method
> (I've launched 55 gal barrels 30' in the air - purposely - with starting
> fluid),  Drink a cold frothy while you contemplate your upcoming
> labors...

OK, OK    I give up. This staring-fluid method is one of those things
that I'll always do but will NEVER  advise. But I will always (and
always have) done the bit with the cold frothy;-)
Cheers   Peter 
'60 109 SW #106 (former dwelling)
'64 88 w/ Kodiak & plow
'72 88 for bits
'73 daily driver/munure/wood hauler
-- 

http://www.mailbag.com/users/nosimport/

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Observations (no good content)
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 98 07:20:45 -0800
From: Bob Frey <frey@pvr.com>

On 2/11/98 3:11 PM East Coast Rover Co. wrote:

>Just got off the Rovers North web page. I played with the Kelley Blue Book
>value page. It says I should get a fully tricked out 94 D90 with low miles
>for 21,500? and a 95 D90 SW with low miles for 24,500? Is this true
>anywhere? or are New England D90 prices that much higher than the other
>places these people are getting their figures??

I've noticed for years that the Kelly Blue Book value of late model 
vehicles is always lower when the majority of sales occur between private 
parties. This is very common with special interest vehicles. I seem to 
recall that the sales data is collected from dealer sales reports and 
state department of motor vehicle reports.

I speculate that sales between private parties dilute the blue book value 
as the sales price reported to the state is lower than the actual  price 
to avoid sales tax and value related registration fees. 

BTW, when I sold my D90 last year the blue book value was $18,100 !

Bob Frey
frey@pvr.com
'96 Discovery
'86 BMW K100
'54 International Metro

------------------------------

From: robot1@juno.com
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 09:22:35 -0600
Subject: Stupid question about axles

Here's my stupid question for the day: Are all axles within a series the
same between 88's and 109's with the exception of the backing plates and
brakes? If I take an 88 axle and put 109 brakes on it will it be a 109
axle?

Thanks in advance

Mark Hardig
Robot1@juno.com
67 109 regular "Sheila"

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@primail.pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Re: Observations
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 98 10:38:57 EST

Mike Smith wrote:

****
Just got off the Rovers North web page. I played with the Kelley Blue Book
value page. It says I should get a fully tricked out 94 D90 with low miles
for 21,500? and a 95 D90 SW with low miles for 24,500? Is this true
anywhere? or are New England D90 prices that much higher than the other
places these people are getting their figures??
****

Down hereabouts (an hour or so north of NYC) I've seen D90's selling
for this $21K range.  Two years ago I knew of one that was fitted with
ARBs, skid plates, beefed up shocks 'n springs, Warn winches front an
rear, Hellas, etc. that had been in a mild front end accident (frame OK,
front bumer, wing, breakfast damage, and probably a rad, too) that
sold for $21K.  More recently, there's been a few 90s in the
local rags for about this price that were presumably just fine.

There's LOTS of D90s and Discos down here.  I'd bet 98% of them have
never seen anything worse than a poorly maintained dirt road.  Most
owned by people who can afford to take a loss, and who probably don't
really know what "the market will bear"...I've seen early Disco's
advertized for as little as $17K, and they get cheaper by the week.
There's probably two to five times the number of Discos than 90s
around here, though, so I don't really expect the D90 prices to
drop below $20K anytime too soon.

And I know of a 110 that sold with ~25K miles on it for $36K, also
about 2 years ago, but it was apparently a steal at that price.

As they say in the used car business, "there's an ass for every
seat"...so don't look too interested when considering a purchase...

rd/nige

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 98 10:25:10 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Observations (no good content)

>I know the import subject has been beaten to death, but here is a guy 
>that is doing it (legal or not I don't know) but it might be a loophole 
>that works. I'm sure as his are all for resale it must be illegal, but??? 
>Thought I'd pass that along.

Shhhh....

------------------------------

From: "Mitch" <mstockdale@pop3.mho.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 09:36:08 +0000
Subject: Re: A Plague from LUCAS

Check the ignition switch.  The Headlight circuit and most all of the 
switched/fused circuits go through this one component (including the 
primary wire - to the coil)  If this were to go to ground then the 
whole thing would shut down.   Get a schmetic of the harness and you 
should be able to trace each circuit from the switch.  

Mitch and the Red Dinasaur
J. Mitchell Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: 12 Feb 98 15:24:11 +0100
From: "Said Geoffrey at MITTS" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
Subject: Worn Engine

Any one has a 2.25 litre worn diesel engine.

I would like to tear this down just to learn about LR mechanics.

Thanks
Geoffrey

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 09:32:22 -0800
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: 110 prices (was Re: Observations ...)

Since 110 prices came up in the Observations... thread, I thought I'd
share some recent experience with you.  If you aren't pining for a 110,
then move along...nothing to see here.

Here on the Left Coast, there have been some 110s whose owners are tired
of trying to sell them.  They all tell basically the same story:

Put car on market for price seen here 'n' there ($40k+ US).
Lots of interest, but no takers for a Really Long Time (much talk of
taking it to condo in Aspen, but no sales).
Price comes down.
Price comes down more.
Then, they are either still on the market now, or (in the case of 3 of
them) were purchased by LR enthusiasts.

I still know of 2-3 of these that can probably be had for under $40K.
There are two in Orange County that are mid- to high-mileage (5OK-70K
miles), whose owners will probably let go of them for around $35K. 
There is one in the 408 area code (Silicon Valley) that has about 20k
miles that can probably be had for about $38k.  The three of us who've
recently bought 110s all have the same story (see above) when talking to
the sellers.  They really perk up when they find out you are an
enthusiast, as they think there's *some* possibility they will sell it
to you.  For everyone's info, here's what I know about the three most
recent additions to the Mendo crowd:

$38K for a 20k-mile Canadian '93 NAS 110 (kph speedo)
$31K for a 60-70k mile '93 NAS 110 (smelled like dog)
$33K for a 72k mile '93 NAS 110

So, it does seem like the days of the sellers getting $5-6K more than
the paid for them may have drawn to a close--at least if they've
actually driven the car.  I know of one local 110 whose owner is
treating it like a rare vehicle (which, of course, they are), and he may
end up with something that works out as a good investment.

Also, there's an '84 110 (still has 2-piece doors) in Minnesota for
$15k-$17k.  It probably needs about $5-10k of work to be 'new' again. 
As far as rarity goes, that's even more rare in these parts than the NAS
110.

C

------------------------------

Date: 12 Feb 98 15:53:18 +0100
From: "Said Geoffrey at MITTS" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
Subject: RE:stuck halfshaft or I thought this was supposed to just slide out

(Do not worry!!!) It seems to me that the axle casing is some what bent.  If the 
teeth were blurred then there would be some noise coming out of the diff

Any comments

Thanks
Geoffrey
Malta

Todd A. Ondick:
>Help!
>I undertook a front end re-build recently (swivel pins, bearings & 
>seals) and everything was going fine* when I got to the point where I 
>tried to remove the passenger (read - right) side halfshaft wouldn't 
>pull out.  Driver's side was A-ok, splines weren't even sloppy. The 
>shaft in question will pull out 3/4 to 1 inch when it becomes firmly 
>stuck (I believe it still rotates though).   Any suggestions on a 
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
>*fine- less than 3 knuckles skinned, only 3 applications of blowtorch, 
>and only 1/2 a can of penetrating oil - I'd say thats more than fine!

------------------------------

From: CAPTPAYNE@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 13:15:05 EST
Subject: Re: Observations

Thanks to the Feds, it's a seller's market.  The number of Defenders in the US
is finite.  Of course, I have no interest in the value of Rovers since I plan
to be buried in mine.  Unless I can trade up to a real cherry D110; one of
those only driven by a little old yuppie on hard pavement to and from the
occasional wine tasting.

Don Payne
94D90 #1331

------------------------------

From: "Tom Dixon" <tomd@clear.net.nz>
Subject: Re: What rear end do I have
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 1998 07:52:36 +1300

Kia ora Chrs.
                        If you can provide a good clean snap shot of "your
rear end". I am sure that next time my good lady is at a hen party she well
have it rated for you. The rating system will be from 1-10. 1 being low and
10 be excellent. ;-)

Cheers.... Tom Dixon
ZL2UPG
79 series 3 lwb (in many pieces)
tomd@clear.net.nz

------------------------------

From: "Mitch" <mstockdale@pop3.mho.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 11:48:50 +0000
Subject: D90 Prices

There are many 94-95 D90's for less than 30K.  Although 94D90 #1331 
may be the elusive GOLD PLATED one.  Remember any car is only worth 
as much as the ONE person will pay.  
J. Mitchell Stockdale

------------------------------

From: caloccia@senie.com
Date: 12 Feb 1998 20:27:09 -0000
Subject: d90 prices

Mitch S. writes:Remember any car is only worth as much as the ONE person will pay.

yeah, and ecr's problem is that down easter's are mighty thrifty with their
hard earned dollars...  :-)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 15:32:50 -0500 (EST)
From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Subject: Engine conversions

I'm  posting for a friend who has a U.S. spec 109 with a very dead 2.25
(cracked block).  Since this was a 4 cylinder to begin with he had decided
to go for the "Iron Duke" conversion rather than the Chevy 6.  The question
is this... in his searching he has been offered a 4 cylinder Volvo turbo
diesel for a very nice price.  Has anyone ever done this conversion?  He is
the man with no engine so is open to all suggestions.  I'll pass along all
bits of wisdom.

thanks

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
Pittsburgh, Pa.

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 15:35:27 EST
Subject: Re:  110 prices (was Re: Observations ...)

In a message dated 2/12/98 12:33:49 PM, you wrote:

>So, it does seem like the days of the sellers getting $5-6K more than
>the paid for them may have drawn to a close--at least if they've
>actually driven the car.  I know of one local 110 whose owner is
>treating it like a rare vehicle (which, of course, they are), and he may
>end up with something that works out as a good investment.

Even if it has 300 miles on it and the owner wants $40+K for it, only someone
who will never drive it will buy it, presumeably to maintain that $40K price
tag on it.

Who among us would buy a $40 K truck just to bang around in? Enthusiasts
probably would look at the trucks with 50,000 miles on tham as a better buy at
$35ish, so I think those 110s (at $35ish) will dominate the used market. I
know I certainly wouldn't buy a 5-6 year old truck with 1000 miles on it for
45K when I can save over 10K and still get a reasonable vehicle. Sure, it has
been driven, but there's lotsa life left in landrovers, right? But there'll
always me *someone* who pays for a near-virgin truck to get dirty with.

Then there must be others like me, who intend to keep the truck for a long
time, who don't really get affected by the trading values; as long as it runs
and is mine... BTW, I also got my 110 used, which is IMHO a great way to buy a
vehicle with replaceable components. ie: so what if the wing is crumpled, it
looks ugly but is replaceable and doesn't compromise the structural integrity
(unlike crunched unibody).

I can't name a reasonable everyday-driveable car sold new here that would make
a great investment. Even Maranello 550s are going to come down. Investments
were made when people bought a 57 Beetle for $950 and now it is worth $ 9500.
(I have a rareish vehicle that I don't drive, but that's to preserve it, not
because I think it will be worth more, especially since it is an Audi, and who
collects them?) I don't think even the bmw, benzes, porsches and ferraris
being sold today will appreciate all *that* much. Especially since you can't
have fun with them AND let them appreciate.

just my .02, which is how much I declared on my DOT sales form... (just
kidding, agent mulder.)

pat "enjoying my 110 almost every week" parsons
93 "living life like a rover" 110

ps: Oh yeah, I'm also waiting for those 110 prices to drop so I can afford a
parts car!

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 15:40:24 EST
Subject: Re:  Re: Observations

In a message dated 2/12/98 1:16:07 PM, you wrote:

>Thanks to the Feds, it's a seller's market.  The number of Defenders in the
US
>is finite.  
Not so, dear fellow. Look in the archives and put yer ear to the ground...

>Of course, I have no interest in the value of Rovers since I plan
>to be buried in mine.  
Me too. I've already contracted the backhoe and forklift at today's prices for
whenever. ;-)

>Unless I can trade up to a real cherry D110; one of
>those only driven by a little old yuppie on hard pavement to and from the
>occasional wine tasting.
That's kinda what I did. Mr. Bacardi's (really, the rum maker) wife apparently
disliked the 110 and wanted a RR instead. So they put the 110 up for sale. A
new RR joined the other 10 cars in their stable. Go to those wine tastings
(and rum tastings) and see what happens...

pat
93  110

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 15:47:35 EST
Subject: Re: 110 prices (was Re: Observations ...)

In a message dated 2/12/98 3:36:45 PM Eastern Standard Time, SPYDERS@aol.com
writes:

<< Investments
 were made when people bought a 57 Beetle for $950 and now it is worth $ 9500.
 (I have a rareish vehicle that I don't drive, but that's to preserve it, not
 because I think it will be worth more, especially since it is an Audi, and
who
 collects them?) I don't think even the bmw, benzes, porsches and ferraris
 being sold today will appreciate all *that* much. Especially since you can't
 have fun with them AND let them appreciate. >>

IMHO if someone's looking for investment "vehicles" which require little or no
maintenance (like storing), buy a Dow  or S&P index fund.  They'd do a helluva
lot better than 10X return in 41 years.  (Remember the seventies when the Dow
was at 700-800 and everyone wondered if the Dow would ever reach 2000?)

Nate

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 15:51:29 EST
Subject: Re:  Re: What rear end do I have

In a message dated 2/12/98 1:54:56 PM, you wrote:

>Kia ora Chrs.
>                        If you can provide a good clean snap shot of "your
>rear end". I am sure that next time my good lady is at a hen party she well
>have it rated for you. The rating system will be from 1-10. 1 being low and
>10 be excellent. ;-)

>Cheers.... Tom Dixon

<rotfl> Now there's the reason I leave *rear ends* and *third members* out of
lro list discussions. Anyone seen any great headlights lately? (looking for
bulbs, actually) 

I wanted to put my hands on a set of bumpers, but decided to wait for an
unused pair to come along.

pat

------------------------------

From: "Michael Bateman" <mbateman@telisphere.com>
Subject: Rover sighted - who are you?
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 13:06:14 -0800

Hello -

I saw a late series 11a 88" (I think) yesterday going into Kingston, WA
from Poulsbo.  Are you on this list, and if so, are you from the Kingston
area?  I'd like to find a local who can help me with what to inspect on a
truck and generally show me his/her rover.

Thanks - 

Michael
mbateman@telisphere.com

PS - sorry for wasting list bandwidth - 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 16:43:38 -0500
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: Stuck half shaft

Tod, difficulty with removing front half shafts is often associated with a
bent axle casing. Alternatively the planet gear splines could be damaged by
a prevoius failure of a half  shaft, need to pull the half shaft out and do
some investigation.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 23:43:07 +0100
From: Marijn van der Himst <marijn@multiweb.net>
Subject: Reverse gear problem

Yet another newbie on the list, having had no answer about the capillary
oil temp. gauge (looking for one -complete- anyone?) here's another
question: my SIII 2.5 ltr petrol -think I'll call her "Winston" :
its ex-MOD etc., when shifted in reverse, tends to 'jump' out of it,
after a couple of meters driving backwards. The other gears appear to
be fine. Is this a matter of adjusting some lever, or something to be 
really concearned about? (i.e. tearing the gearbox apart)
I've already asked around, but since you all are also experts ;).....

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 16:57:00 -0800
From: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Subject: Re: Reverse gear problem

Marijn van der Himst wrote:
> Yet another newbie on the list, having had no answer about the capillary
> oil temp. gauge (looking for one -complete- anyone?) here's another
> question: my SIII 2.5 ltr petrol -think I'll call her "Winston" :
> its ex-MOD etc., when shifted in reverse, tends to 'jump' out of it,
> after a couple of meters driving backwards. The other gears appear to
> be fine. Is this a matter of adjusting some lever, or something to be
> really concearned about? (i.e. tearing the gearbox apart)
> I've already asked around, but since you all are also experts ;).....

Only an Opinion here.
	Soft mounts and hard boots?   (see rearend thread)
Peter

http://www.mailbag.com/users/nosimport/

------------------------------

From: "Clare and Lee Dunkelberg" <clarelee@freewwweb.com>
Subject: re: Re: Observations  (no good content)
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 17:04:10 -0600
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ]
	charset="iso-8859-1"

I would go along with that - my 94D90 has about 30,000 miles on it.
At the same time, as the owner of a $30,000 vehicle without power locks, =
roll down windows, adeqaute insulation and a host of other features, I'd =
be careful about saying others don't have a good grip on reality when it =
pertains to Defenders.
Of course, I need MY Defender for when the next blizzard hits San =
Antonio.
Not wanting to get a grip, I remain ...
Lee Dunkelberg
1994 D90
#1584

From: CAPTPAYNE@aol.com
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 23:45:02 EST
Subject: Re: Observations (no good content)

Wouldn't think of selling my 94D90 with 39,000 miles for less than 30k.  =
I
don't think the book has a handle on reality as it pertains to =
Defenders.
Don Payne
94D90 #1331

------=_NextPart_000_0009_01BD37D8.3CC13300
	[ Original post was HTML ]
	charset="iso-8859-1"

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>I would go along with that - my 94D90 has about 30,000 miles on =
it.</DIV>
<DIV>At the same time, as the owner of a $30,000 vehicle without power =
locks,
roll down windows, adeqaute insulation and a host of other features, I'd =
be
careful about saying others don't have a good grip on reality when it =
pertains
to Defenders.</DIV>
<DIV>Of course, I need MY Defender for when the next blizzard hits San
Antonio.</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Not wanting to get a grip, I remain ...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>Lee Dunkelberg</DIV>
<DIV>1994 D90</DIV>
<DIV>#1584</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;<BR>From: <A
href=3D"mailto:CAPTPAYNE@aol.com">CAPTPAYNE@aol.com</A><BR>Date: Wed, 11 =
Feb 1998
23:45:02 EST<BR>Subject: Re: Observations (no good =
content)<BR><BR>Wouldn't
think of selling my 94D90 with 39,000 miles for less than 30k.&nbsp; =
I<BR>don't
think the book has a handle on reality as it pertains to =
Defenders.<BR>Don
Payne<BR>94D90 #1331&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0009_01BD37D8.3CC13300--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 18:27:06 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: re: Re: Observations 

So from the replies I got looks like the metro NY. NJ area has the cheapest
used 90s. The emailer said good ones for 20-22. You can't seem to touch
anything nice here in New England for less than 25,000. and most go 27,000
to 30,'s. I looked at a wrecked 94 in Boston for 14,000 needed everything,
and another beat up and rusty one was 22,000. The one we have has 55,000
miles, is great, but that is not low miles, and the Kelley thing said low
miles and mint was 21,000. Somebody should call Kelley and tell them to get
their facts straight. Just for fun I plugged in my sisters mint, 45,000
mile 1986 Porsche 944. It said 3300. I wish! I'd buy it from her.
OK... I'll stop talking about it now. It just boggled my mind how the
"authority" people look to for prices could be so far off.

LRNA came through with the parts! Looks like the RR will be ready for
Winter Romp! Hey if you are there.. introduce yourself... I drive a beat to
crap blue 87 RR. plate # ECR 1
Maybe I shouldn't work on it... a client of our's offered me his D90 SW for
the weekend if I couldn't get the RR fixed. ;-)

From: Mike Smith,  EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 07:02:58 -0500
From: DAVID H LOWE <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Subject: Re: Reverse gear problem

Check that the reverse detent spring in the top cover of the box is correct.
The reverse spring is stronger than the other two ( it helps to retain the
gear). If it is correct then you have a worn reverse gear bush and /or a
worn  "Z" shaft which is the shaft the gear slides on. It looks like any
other shaft but is actually machined to form an elongated Z to also help to
retain the gear.

Marijn van der Himst wrote:

> Yet another newbie on the list, having had no answer about the capillary
> oil temp. gauge (looking for one -complete- anyone?) here's another
> question: my SIII 2.5 ltr petrol -think I'll call her "Winston" :
> its ex-MOD etc., when shifted in reverse, tends to 'jump' out of it,
> after a couple of meters driving backwards. The other gears appear to
> be fine. Is this a matter of adjusting some lever, or something to be
> really concearned about? (i.e. tearing the gearbox apart)
> I've already asked around, but since you all are also experts ;).....

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 19:57:45 EST
Subject: Wire Size Chart

Ok, everybody remember the "what-size-wire-will-carry-what-amperage?" debate
that went on a few weeks ago? Well in my infinite boredom, I found a website
with a chart on it. They also offer circuit breaker switches for whoever was
looking for those.

www.powerup.com

and the chart is on one of their internal links.

pat
93  110

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 20:10:26 -0500 (EST)
From: Hank Rutherford <ruthrfrd@borg.com>
Subject: Electrical Woes-Finally a Cure?

    For those more interested in reliability than originality, you can try a
trick that I have used on several vehicles of the Br*t*sh persuasion. Having
noticed that B*sch electricals are nearly bullet proof and the components
much cheaper, I have taken to installing B*sch relays behind the dash, using
the Lucas switch on the control side. The result is that high current draw
is handled by the relay, and the switch handles the low power (overheated
contacts are usually the culprit in failed switches). These relays are dead
easy to wire, are about one inch (25 mm) (392.7 whitworths) square, and some
can handle 30 amps. A VW R*bb*t  fuel pump relay is heavy duty and even has
it's own ceramic fuse riding piggyback. There is no outward appearance that
things have been modified, except that you may stand out from the crowd by
having a fully functional Lucas electrical system. 
                                 Ruthrfrd@borg.com

P.S. This does not help those whose switches have regurgitated their balls,
springs and electrodes into your lap.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 17:16:30 -0800
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: Wire Size Chart

Hey!  Thanks for that link.  I want one of their switch pannels.  Check
'em out.

C

SPYDERS@aol.com wrote:
> Ok, everybody remember the "what-size-wire-will-carry-what-amperage?" 
> debate that went on a few weeks ago? Well in my infinite boredom, I 
> found a website with a chart on it. They also offer circuit breaker 
> switches for whoever was looking for those.
 
> www.powerup.com
 
> and the chart is on one of their internal links.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 19:23:41 -0800
From: Dave Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: PTO info

Thanks to everyone who called about the PTO, there were at least 6
people who called.  I hope whoever buys it is as happy as me with mine.
If all goes well I will have mine on in a week or two.  I haven't
forgotten about putting some neat pictures on a Web page of my 88 and I
think I will include some accessories like the PTO, capstan winch,
electric winch, cubby box etc. for those who might want to install
these.  I will put a picture and dimensions of a home built safari rack
I made.  Had lots of good feedback on it and using square tubing and
commercial plastic plugs, it looks factory and is very strong.  I use it
as a radio platform and sitting area when I want to get away from the
titsi flies, other wise known as mosquitoes in this neck of the woods.
Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 20:20:56 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: Re: Electrical Woes-Finally a Cure?

>much cheaper, I have taken to installing B*sch relays behind the dash, using
>the Lucas switch on the control side. The result is that high current draw
>is handled by the relay, and the switch handles the low power (overheated
>contacts are usually the culprit in failed switches).

This really works. We install Bosch relays on all our heavy draw items like
heater motors, electric fans, etc. Never burned up a switch yet. Have had
brand new ones fall apart in my hands though as I took them out of the bag.
:-(
Hey... if Rovers were bulletproof and didn't need anything, what the hell
would we all talk about?;-)

From: Mike Smith,  EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 20:30:34 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: Favorite cause

Dear all,
        In an effort to have some fun, and do something good. For this
years Owls Head Rover Rally, Aug. 8-9. We are looking to assist some good
cause during the event. Maybe a small fee at the gate, or maybe bring some
cans of food, toys, you know that sort of thing, strictly for some
Non-profit cause.
        So the question is... What cause do most Rover owners agree on? Any
ideas? The Harley Davidson riders in Maine do a huge toy drive... I think
we can help out some people too!
        Only guideline... must be a US or North American organization.
Helping out overseas is cool, but we have some people here that need help
too.
        Any ideas?

From: Mike Smith,  EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

From: "FHYap" <FHYap@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: 110 prices (was Re: Observations ...)
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 19:26:12 -0800

>I know of one local 110 whose owner is
> treating it like a rare vehicle (which, of course, they are), and he may
> end up with something that works out as a good investment.

Hey Chris, 

I don't know if you are talking about mine .. but I would never buy a
vehicle as an investment.

Frank

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 06:33:27 -0500
From: DAVID H LOWE <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Subject: Re: A plague of Lucas demons

Pull one fuse at a time and check if the symptoms exist. This will isolate
which leg it is on. Photo copy your wiring diagram and methodically inspect
,connect, disconnect and colour where you have tested. There`s not that much
to check.First one fuse then the other...if it persists when either fuse is
out it must be  "upstream of the fuse box. Good luck stay calm and methodical

Sandra Harris wrote:

> On Wed, 11 Feb 1998, Mike Dryfoos wrote:
> > Is there any way to kill these demons besides rewiring the whole blasted
> > car?
>         Check that all grounds are fine for a start.

------------------------------

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