1948-1998 Land Rover's 50th Anniversary
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From: GcdoAK@aol.com Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 11:00:34 EST Subject: Re: southern tier NY rover club There is a rover club in the central NY area the Finger Lakes Rover Club. Several of our rides have been in the Chatauqua Lake area in western NY. Check out ther web site at HTTP://members.aol.com/roveron/index.html. Members of this groupb have been assisting in the setup of the events that are going to take place in central NY at Greek Peak or nearby. Jon ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980212 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 14:20:29 -0800 From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@rc.gc.ca> Subject: southern tier NY rover club > There is a rover club in the central NY area the Finger Lakes Rover Club. There is a list of US Land Rover clubs at http://www.off-road.com/LR_FAQ/FAQ.5.clubs.usa.html It has recently been divided regionally and I am in the process of trying to update all of the entries (still awaiting responses from a number of clubs, some have been updated) Rgds Dixon (from yet another address <sigh>) ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980212 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Mike Dryfoos <mikedr@MICROSOFT.com> Subject: A plague of Lucas demons Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 10:53:26 -0800 A plague of Lucas demons seem to have infected by '71 SIIA. It started with the car dying whenever I turned on the headlights, and has gone through stages like killing the car when the brake lights or reversing lights are activated, or failure of headlights, interior light, radio, and warning flashers to operate. Fiddling with connectors and jiggling wires make the symptoms change. I haven't found any obvious wiring faults, but there may be some hiding in the harness braid. Is there any way to kill these demons besides rewiring the whole blasted car? Thanks for any advice. Mike Dryfoos mikedr@microsoft.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980212 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 20:37:20 +0100 From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Subject: Exsorcising the plaques of Lucas Mike Dryfoos wrote: A plague of Lucas demons seem to have infected by '71 SIIA.Is there any way to kill these demons besides rewiring the whole blasted car? As far as I know there are very few options - 1. Remove battery - leave LR in garage 2. Remove battery, use towrope behind neighbours Mondeo 3. Ignore missing electrical functions (most common solution) 4. Rewire the whole blasted car (after which options 1,2, ands 3 apply) :-) sorry, but that's my humble experience. good luck with the rewire (usually it's not the wires themselves - unless you can see the damage - usually it's the contacts, often behind the dash, often inside electrical components (lampholders, switches, fuel sender, flashers, and especially sidelights and indicators) often it is the "previous owner syndrome" - non standard wiring, and wire materials, bad non-automotive connections, bad insulation - (sticking plaster, sellotape, cheap electrical tape, gafferstape) - the usual rule is the wire the car according to its capacity for mechanical endurance - if it's capable of driving through a pond, it's likely that someone will do it, and expect the wiring to match the drive chain's survivability. My three rovers have mostly original wiring - the only major faults which I have found is on rewiring, some of which is previous owners, some of which is my own. Now I replace using good quality automotive wire, generally double insulated if its long looms, keep the connections away from the underside and the weather, twist and tin-solder all wire ends before adding crimp connectors, and solder these after crimping, Vaseline over the connection, then heat-shrink sleeving over that. These measures have never (as yet) resulted in failed connections - whilst old rattly Lucas components (often salvaged from even older trucks) do seem to be a regular cause for complaint. There are several "regular offenders" on my liost - I am sure others have theirs (this is a diesel owners list) 1. Fuel guage sender (bad internal connections) 2. Emergency indicators (bad contacts inside switch) 3. Indicator/horn switch (bad design - esp. long beam contacts) 4. Headlight switch (esp if fog/spots are fed from here!) 5. all 8 sidelights/indicators (atrocious design, should be subject to product liability IMHO - unsuitable for intended use. 6. both side indicators (front fender sides) same as (5.) 7. Earth strap to starter motor (usually falls off, having chaffed hole in the side of the starter motor cover, which lets water in to ruin the brush connections) 8. Connections from loom to headlights/sidelights/indicators/horn - usually bad due to previous/present owner mods due to regular replacement/repair of (5.) and (6.), or replacement of crumpled wing sections (I have never seen a LR SIII with original front loom wiring, it's always a bodge up somewhere behiond the rad. grille) 9. Reverselight switch (if fitted) on gearstick selector (usually falls loose) 10. Charge light inside speedometer (always falls out when refitting instrument panel 11. Ignition switch (switch falls off from steering lock 12. Wiper/wash contacts (lousy switch) Apart from these - the electrics on a diesel SIII are near perfect IMHO! Good luck Adrian Redmond --------------------------------------------------- CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark --------------------------------------------------- telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 86 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 54 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk --------------------------------------------------- Visit our homepages! www.channel6.dk --------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980212 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 12:27:35 -0800 (PST) From: Michael Roberts <psu00712@odin.cc.pdx.edu> Subject: Re: A plague of Lucas demons Mike, I would look at the obvious first. Check your grounds for attachment, corrosion and cleanliness from the battery to the the little wires bolted to the chassis. Next, inspect insulation as best you can for cracked and shorting wires to broken off opens. I am thinking there is a grounding problem somewhere, IMHO. Good luck, and lots of WD-40... Michael Roberts Vernonia, Oregon ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980212 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 15:41:05 -0500 (EST) From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com> Subject: Re: A plague of Lucas demons On Wed, 11 Feb 1998, Mike Dryfoos wrote: > A plague of Lucas demons seem to have infected by '71 SIIA. It started with flashers to operate. Fiddling with connectors and jiggling wires make the symptoms change. I haven't found any obvious wiring faults, but there may > be some hiding in the harness braid. Do the cheap (and easy) stuff first, like undoing all of the conectors, cleaning them, and covering them with something like vaseline. Check your grounding points. Flakey ground can do really, really weird things. After you do that, and still not fixing the problem, I would check the harness where it goes through the firewall. David / mr sinclair, whose has made the sacrifice to Lucas this month... ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980212 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS@aol.com Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 15:43:59 EST Subject: re: The.Big.50@Shugbourgh.Hall In a message dated 2/11/98 11:22:20 AM, Paul wrote: >Hello all, >I too have not heard about this bash >> To all Series one aficionados >Is it only open to S1 owners ? I think the person who posted the original note mentioned that he *was not* subscribed to this list and to please respond directly; perhaps these requests for info aren't geting out to whom they ought to. pat 93 110 ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980212 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Christopher J. Clanton" <clantoc@cscoe.ac.com> Subject: What rear end do I have? Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 14:44:29 -0600 Recently purchased a 1969 IIa 88". North American Spec, if that makes a difference. Do I have a Salisbury rear end? I've browsed the archives and seems as though this rear end is a little better in terms of broken half-shafts, etc. How can I tell what I've got? Thanks for everyone's help...I'm sure I'll have more questions over the next couple of months. - Christopher Clanton clantoc@cscoe.ac.com Andersen Consulting Minneapolis, MN USA 1969 88" - Unnamed. Hasn't earned one yet! ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980212 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 17:06:54 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: What rear end do I have?
If your rear axle has a removable cover plate on the back of it the it
is a Salisbury if not it is a Rover unit. On an 88 you would expect to
find a Rover axle. Only Series III 109s and 110s came stock with the
Salisbury. Of course there is bound to be someone out there who has a
stock 88 with one, such is the way with Land Rovers.
John and MuddyChristopher J. Clanton wrote:
> Recently purchased a 1969 IIa 88". North American Spec,
> if that makes a difference. Do I have a Salisbury rear end?
> I've browsed the archives and seems as though this rear
> end is a little better in terms of broken half-shafts, etc.
> How can I tell what I've got?
> Thanks for everyone's help...I'm sure I'll have more
[ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
> Minneapolis, MN USA
> 1969 88" - Unnamed. Hasn't earned one yet!
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Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 16:35:31 -0500
From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: re: What rear end do I have?
A number of responses come to mind given the err--opening--opening you
provided us with. Don't ever deliver the straightline around here, we don't
always pull our punches. However, I'm feeling charitable and will provide
you with the straight answer...
Unless a previous owner has modified your vehicle, you don't have the more
robust Salisbury rear axle as it isn't designed to be fitted to a SWB (88).
Don't despair however, the stock set up is pretty robust it's ownself. Just
carry a pair of halfshafts (which are inexpensive) and don't worry about it.
And when an old halfshaft stub left over from a SPOT (Stupid Previous Owner
Trick) falls from the diff casing--having been crushed in the gears along
the way--you can make a lovely necklace out of it for that special lady in
your life...or a keychain for yourself. Been there, done that, wrote about
it on the web.
RoverOn!
jab
==
Jeffrey A. Berg Purple Shark Media Rowayton, CT
jeff@purpleshark.com
==================
Guidance Counselor said your scores are anti-heroic.
Computer recommends hard-drinking calypso poet.
--Jimmy Buffett, If It All Falls Down (by Matt Betton)
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]Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 10:45:34 -1000 From: Wayne Haight <whaight@hawaii.edu> Subject: Death of Kololohi Aloha, It saddens me to announce the death of my beloved 1970 Series IIA SWB. She was involved in an accident that left her with her right wing torn off, bumper twisted, spring broken, frame buckled and twisted, engine shoved back about 5 inches, bulkhead tweaked, etc. A real basket case. Before she was slaughtered she was in excellent condition. I don't have the money to rebuild her, so I guess I will sell her for parts. Any idea of how much I should ask? Anyone have any other options? Mahalo nui loa, -- Wayne R. Haight Senior Fisheries Research Specialist Joint Institute for Marine and Atmospheric Research 2570 Dole Street Honolulu, Hawaii 96822 ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980212 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Christopher J. Clanton" <clantoc@cscoe.ac.com> Subject: re: What rear end do I have? Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 16:37:28 -0600 Thanks for going easy on me Jeff. Re-reading the post, I guess I did leave myself pretty open for abuse. Don't worry, tough skin on this end! >From what I was told, the Rover is pretty much stock, so from what I've gathered, I doubt its a Salisbury. Sounds like I better check on the half-shafts. -cjc - Christopher Clanton clantoc@cscoe.ac.com Andersen Consulting Minneapolis, MN USA ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980212 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 15:51:44 -0700 From: "Todd A. Ondick" <tadpole@mssl.uswest.net> Subject: stuck halfshaft or I thought this was supposed to just slide out Help! I undertook a front end re-build recently (swivel pins, bearings & seals) and everything was going fine* when I got to the point where I tried to remove the passenger (read - right) side halfshaft wouldn't pull out. Driver's side was A-ok, splines weren't even sloppy. The shaft in question will pull out 3/4 to 1 inch when it becomes firmly stuck (I believe it still rotates though). Any suggestions on a remedy and or a cause? This one has got me stumped as there is no way to see in (clearly) to inspect/free the end within the dif. Todd Ondick '65 IIA 88 - Krusty tadpole@mssl.uswest.net *fine- less than 3 knuckles skinned, only 3 applications of blowtorch, and only 1/2 a can of penetrating oil - I'd say thats more than fine! ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980212 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 18:01:12 -0500 (EST) Subject: Changing your own tires. Fixing Flat Tires Understanding how to remove a tire and repair a tube is an essential backcountry skill for a Land Rover owner. This suggests that the requisite tools need to be in your kit. You can not always call for help. On trips with two Land Rovers into the back of beyond, where we saw no other people or cars for a week, we carried two spares on each Land Rover, one on the hood and another on the back door. This meant we didn't need to stop and go into tire shop mode until our fifth flat. We could often get back to civilization (and tire shops) without needing to stop and fix flats. The most difficult part of removing a tire from it's rim is breaking the bead. A method that has worked for me is to use the Land Rover as a bead breaker. After removing the valve from it's stem, drive the Land Rover up onto the tire, as close as possible to the rim. You may need somebody to stand on the opposite side of the tire to keep that side down on the ground. The weight of the Land Rover should be enough to break the bead. I have seen jacks used for this purpose, but do not think it is safe. If the bead does not break at this point, you now have an opening in which to insert tire irons and, using a hammer (Land Rover Tool #1) and tire iron, pound the bead down into the rim well. On tires that have not been removed for a long time, this may take a bit of pounding. Use soapy water as a lubricant. After removing the tube, find all of the leaks by inflating the tube and using water look for bubbles, listen carefully for the hiss of a leak, or pass your hand over the tube to feel for a leak. Patch all the leaks, following instruction on the patch kit. Then look for more leaks. Check the inside of the tire for the cause of the leak. Use a soft rag to wipe around inside the tire feeling for snags. Remove any offending objects. If it is a large item, you may need to plug the hole with a plug from a tubeless tire repair kit. Trim off the excess plug inside the tire. After reassembling, inflate the tire fully and then deflate it. This permits the tube to adjust to it's new location and helps to prevent tube creases which will later rupture. Inflate to pressure. Most of my experience is with tube type tires. Always thought they were more repairable than tubeless, a real benefit in the back country. The challenge with tubeless tires, once the bead is broken and the repair is made, is to re-seat the bead so the tire can be inflated. Use a rope, chain, tow strap or winch cable to make a belt around the tread of the tire. Tighten this belt to compress the bead onto the rim. At this point you will be glad you brought an air pump that produces a reasonable airflow. Doing this with a hand pump will try the patience of a saint. Tire service tools include: tire irons, hammer, patch kit (patch material and cement), tubeless repair kit, valve removal tool, spare tube, soap (liquid dish soap works well) air pump, rags and a pressure gauge. Before embarking on that major trip, the intrepid Land Rover explorer would be well advised to practice this process, along with a few team members, in the tranquility of their own yard or garage. Paul Donohue College of Low Technology 1965 Land Rover Dormobile ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980212 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 18:11:48 -0500 From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.) Subject: Observations (no good content) Dear all, Just got off the Rovers North web page. I played with the Kelley Blue Book value page. It says I should get a fully tricked out 94 D90 with low miles for 21,500? and a 95 D90 SW with low miles for 24,500? Is this true anywhere? or are New England D90 prices that much higher than the other places these people are getting their figures?? Another observation, Why does your Rover break down right before events?! The RR has been running perfect since last August when I put the new bushings in. Now with a couple of days to go before Winter Romp 3, the oil leaks start and I had to strip the upper end of the engine down to just a short block last night! Do these Rovers know when events are coming? What a pain. Does this happen to anyone else... or should I take the RR out back and teach it a lesson!? (those of you who know my RR, know that I treat it with tender love and care!) yeah right! Thats it... just had to vent! ;-) See ya! Mike (stupid RR parts better come UPS on Thursday!!!) Smith From: Mike Smith, EAST COAST ROVER CO. *Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists* 21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864 207.594.8086 phone 207.594.8120 fax http://www.eastcoastrover.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980212 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 17:20:31 -0800 From: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com> Subject: Re: Changing your own tires. DONOHUEPE@aol.com wrote: > Most of my experience is with tube type tires. Always thought they were > more repairable than tubeless, a real benefit in the back country. The > challenge with tubeless tires, once the bead is broken and the repair is > made, is to re-seat the bead so the tire can be inflated. Use a rope, > chain, tow strap or winch cable to make a belt around the tread of the tire. > Tighten this belt to compress the bead onto the rim. At this point you will > be glad you brought an air pump that produces a reasonable airflow. Doing [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)] > be glad you brought an air pump that produces a reasonable airflow. Doing > this with a hand pump will try the patience of a saint. An old trick taught to me that I have used and ALWAYS* works is to spray starting fluid around the bead and quickly drop a match onto the tire. The fluid goes POOF sucking the air out of the tire and thereby snapping the bead back in place. Honest... it works. *use fresh starting fluid otherwise you have a burning tire that's a b*%$h to put out! BT,DT Cheers Peter -- http://www.mailbag.com/users/nosimport/ ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980212 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 00:34:43 +0100 From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Subject: Re: Death of Kololohi Dear Wayne, As an LRO whose 88 was also crumpled last week - though thankfully not as badly as your - I can only offer my sympathies, condolences, and best wishes that, when the initial trauma has settled, you will find a way of either restoring your car or replacing it with another LR. I hope this doesn't drive you from the list! Good luck Adrian Redmond --------------------------------------------------- CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark --------------------------------------------------- telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 86 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 54 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk --------------------------------------------------- Visit our homepages! www.channel6.dk --------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980212 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 17:10:17 -0800 From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org> Subject: Re: Observations (no good content) Mike Smith wrote: > Just got off the Rovers North web page. I played with the Kelley Blue > Book value page. It says I should get a fully tricked out 94 D90 with > low miles for 21,500? and a 95 D90 SW with low miles for 24,500? Is > this true anywhere? or are New England D90 prices that much higher > than the other places these people are getting their figures?? I don't get that either. I think the blue book doesn't take limited availablility into account. Anyway, just wait. I waited until 110 prices got down to my pain threshold and managed to get one! > Another observation, Why does your Rover break down right before > events?! ... > Does this happen to anyone else... or should I take the RR out back > and teach it a lesson!? 1 week before Palo Alto '96: Ingition switch short takes out wiring harness in '65 IIA. Day before Hayward '97: Coil on IIA *breaks*. Managed to get a new one and go to the show, though. And, I didn't get the new springs under the '65 IIA in time to take it to the Palo Alto show in '97, so I took the Disco and a keg of the Mad Scientist's home brew. Take it the RR to the woodshed and teach it a lesson (although I suspect it may have calluses from branches already!). C ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980212 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 21:24:29 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Observations (no good content)
Mike, of course these beasts know when there is something afoot. Just
like the family Dog they can sense that SOMETHING is happening and they
are afraid they will be left out so like a spoiled child they do
something naughty to get your attention. Most Rover owners respond in
the same way that you should with said spoiled child ie. they try to
ignore it. Usually this works but sometimes LandRover does something so
bad that you just have to pay the required attention and the parts bill.
I can't say too much more as Muddy is starting to get suspicious about
all the activity this evening as I prepare for a 2am. departure.( If I
owned the damn ferry I would do something about the stupid schedule)
John and MuddyEast Coast Rover Co. wrote:
> Dear all,
> Just got off the Rovers North web page. I played with the Kelley Blue Book
> value page. It says I should get a fully tricked out 94 D90 with low miles
> for 21,500? and a 95 D90 SW with low miles for 24,500? Is this true
> anywhere? or are New England D90 prices that much higher than the other
> places these people are getting their figures??
> Another observation, Why does your Rover break down right before events?!
[ truncated by list-digester (was 29 lines)]
> 207.594.8086 phone 207.594.8120 fax
> http://www.eastcoastrover.com
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]Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 09:35:12 +0800 (SGT) From: torque@pacific.net.sg (Lawrence Lee) Subject: Re: Erratic Running Engine. Hello all, To those who offered advice thanks for all of them. I have finally solved the problem. Faulty High Tension leads. Pulled them out, checked them thru a multimeter, no breaks. Fitted new ones since every other suspected part had been replaced, did a 200km drive and no more misfiring. I just had to do slight adjustments to the ignition timing (advance) and fuel mixture (enrichen) to restore the full power of before. Cheers, Lawrence Lee '81 Ser III 109 2.6l Lawrence Lee, Art Director Torque Class Magazine, The Only Motor Magazine You Have to be Seen In MPH Trade Publications (S) Pte Ltd, 12 Tagore Drive, Singapore 787621 Tel: 453 8200 DID: 450 6005 Fax: 453 8600 ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980212 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 20:51:44 -0500 (EST) From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com> Subject: Re: Changing your own tires. On Wed, 11 Feb 1998, Peter wrote: > An old trick taught to me that I have used and ALWAYS* works is to spray starting fluid around the bead and quickly drop a match onto the tire. The fluid goes POOF sucking the air out of the tire and thereby snapping > the bead back in place. Honest... it works. This strikes me as a Bad Idea. Actually, it strikes me as a Really Bad Idea. ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980212 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 18:45:21 -0800 From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net> Subject: Re: Death of Kololohi Wayne Haight wrote: > It saddens me to announce the death of my beloved 1970 Series IIA SWB. That's a real shame. My condolences > I don't have > the money to rebuild her, so I guess I will sell her for parts. Any idea > of how much I should ask? Anyone have any other options? Maybe it's no help but before you give up I'd check out the actual costs of a new rolling chassis, but I admit it sounds bad. cheers and good luck Jeremy P.S. I seem to recall a rumor (maybe too old) that a fellow on Kuai was selling a Stage 1. ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980212 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 23:15:28 -0800 From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca> Subject: Re: stuck halfshaft or I thought this was supposed to just slide out Todd A. Ondick wrote: > Help! > I undertook a front end re-build recently (swivel pins, bearings & > seals) and everything was going fine* when I got to the point where I > tried to remove the passenger (read - right) side halfshaft wouldn't > pull out. Driver's side was A-ok, splines weren't even sloppy. The > shaft in question will pull out 3/4 to 1 inch when it becomes firmly > stuck (I believe it still rotates though). Any suggestions on a [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)] > remedy and or a cause? This one has got me stumped as there is no way > to see in (clearly) to inspect/free the end within the dif. Todd, the first thing to do is sit down and look at it ( I usually do this often), then go get a big hammer (I do this alot) and beat the living.... Next, can you hook up a puller to the halfshaft? Sounds like the spline on the inside end is burred over or deformed for some reason. When the spline comes up on the differential wheel it may be binding, so a puller may just be the ticket. If that doesn't work, look for a hammer and .......;-) Con Seitl 1973 III 88 "Pig" ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980212 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 22:39:06 -0500 (EST) From: Sandra Harris <sharris@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca> Subject: Re: A plague of Lucas demons On Wed, 11 Feb 1998, Mike Dryfoos wrote: > Is there any way to kill these demons besides rewiring the whole blasted > car? Check that all grounds are fine for a start. ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980212 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: CAPTPAYNE@aol.com Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 23:45:02 EST Subject: Re: Observations (no good content) Wouldn't think of selling my 94D90 with 39,000 miles for less than 30k. I don't think the book has a handle on reality as it pertains to Defenders. Don Payne 94D90 #1331 ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980212 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 23:05:16 -0800 From: Dave Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca> Subject: More PTO info Because I was looking for a PTO, I received lots of mail from people with them for sale. A really good one is available for $200 Canadian from a fellow in Alberta where I got mine. If anyone wants to get the address, call me on my personal E-Mail and I will pass the info along. If it is as good as the one I received, it is like new. I would have had it on by now if my daughters VW Jetta didn't throw a rear wheel bearing and stub. It will be this weekend before it is back on the road. Thank God for the wreckers. Rear bearings and axles on VW's are like Land Rover however, they are fixed easily without a lot of fancy tools and a hoist. Dave VE4PN ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980212 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 19:50:38 -1000
From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Subject: Re: Wheel straightening
The fellow at the tire shop used a humongous hand sledge and beat the crap
out of the center from the face side after finding the out of true section
on the wheel balancer. It wasn't completely successful as the wheel still
has a wobble which can be felt in the steering. I'm going to move it to
the rear to see if it is driveable on the back.
Possibly you could mount it on a rear axle to find where the wheel is out
of true. Then remove it and beat it from the rear using a block of wood or
some other extension. I haven't had time to try this out.
The fellow at the tire shop didn't charge me for the straightening, just
fixing the flat, so didn't spend a lot of time on the straightening. When
I have the time I'll experiment. May try mounting it on a spare hub and
straightening with a press but that is a real future task. Since I have so
many bent wheels, at least three, it may be cost effective to experiment
with some kind of jig for a press.
Sorry I couldn't be more help. Would appreciate it if you could let me
know if you come up with some way to do the job with a little more precision.
Aloha Peter
At 12:16 PM 2/9/98 -0500, you wrote:
>A couple of months ago, someone posted a nifty idea for straightening out
wheels bent by over zealous off-roading or the diminished-cpapcity blokes
at the tire place. When I picked up my new trac Edges, one was slightly
bent. (They seemed to take great care with the other wheels, so I don't
think it was 'new' damage.) If you could repost it or steer me to the
article in the archives, i'd appreciate it. Cheers
> *----jeep may be famous, <italic>LAND-ROVER</italic> is
>Legendary----*
> | A. P. ("Sandy") Grice |
[ truncated by list-digester (was 21 lines)]
> |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
> *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*
------------------------------
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Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 05:41:28 -0500
From: masmith <masmith@barint.on.ca>
Subject: conversions
hi everyone thanks for to all for your input.everyone i have talked to
states that all the conversions use a rangerover thansferbox. i was talking
to ian ashcroft and he uses a rangerover transfer box with a gm auto tranny
this sounds like a good idea. but i dont want a permanent 4x4. i was also
talking to another gentelman in france who converts 90/110 transfer boxes
to two wheel drive via changing the center diff in the tcase.my question
now is :is the Tcase in the 90/110 a Lt230t?if it is then what yera did
they put it in the 90/110.is this Tcase a gear drive and not a chain drive.
tony smith
masmith@barint.on.ca
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