1948-1998 Land Rover's 50th Anniversary
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Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 09:08:21 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: How to change a flat tire?
R. Wade Hughes wrote:
> Please, stop laughing!
> No, seriously, can one replace an inner tube oneself? must be able to,
> because I saw in the Brownchurch price list a tire iron-tube type
> listed. Now I know I have a set of two little pry bars at home for a
> bicycle tire, so that you use one to lift the bead up, hook the other
> end on a spoke, then use the other, etc. So I figure one needs two pry
> bars (or gooseneck nailpullers?) to lift the bead over a std LR rim.
[ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> Stepside, so Ive not seen it done.
> Has anybody? Like to be able to in a jam in the bush.
You can do it with tubeless too. After you break down the bead make sure
that the bead on the back side of the tire is down in the well of the
rim before you attempt to lever the top bead up as well as pushing the
bead into the well opposite where you are going to start levering.
Start to dismount the tire opposite the valve stem but also push to
stem and tube back inside the tire. When you put the tire back finish up
at the valve stem.
Before installing the new tube put enough air in it to allow it to
take shape so you can see just where the valve is as it will be off
set. Then let the air out again to get inside the tire.
To avoid pinching the tube with the tire irons you can tap the bead
back over the rim with a hammer while standing on the tire.
John and Muddy.
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From: glenn.rees@PAREURO.COM
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 13:22:47 +0000
Subject: The.Big.50@Shugbourgh.Hall
To all Series one aficionados
How many of you out there from the South East / Home Counties
/south of the Thames area, are going to the Big 50 Bash at
Shugbourgh Hall on June 27. It would seem that various
"Runs" are being organised from the South West and the East.
How about one from "The South" ?
It could also include anyone coming in from Europe via channel
ports. (reply direct as not subscribed to main list)
I will probably be driving up on Friday 26th June from the
north Surrey area with several other locals, but could
arrange a suitable gathering point along the route.
For the 40th Rally in Wales we managed to get 10 vehicles
together, and some of us are still speaking to one another!
Cheers, Glenn
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]Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 06:48:32 MST From: Ralph N Bradt <rnbradt@earthlink.net> Subject: Jetting the Weber 34ICH Thanks for the thoughts on re-jetting my Weber for better mileage at altitude. I had Weber 32/36 DGV on the last carburetted Toy PU I had and really loved it, but putting one on the Rover is a project for sometime down the road. Guess the first step is buy a fistful of likely jets. I've found them for $5 each locally (Denver) or $3.50 each on the 'Net (www.webercarburetors.com). Any better suggestions? Ralph ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980211 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 16:23:28 +0300 (EET) From: Semih Bingol <semih@leo.ee.hun.edu.tr> Subject: Re: A question to the diesel gurus (and probably novices) Hi, Since I don't know the details about the previously mentioned underpowered truck, I have printed all the responses and will give them to my friend who is doing the restoration. If the problem turns out to be worthy enough to be added to the collective memory of the list, I'll post it later. Thanks everybody! Semih Bingol 74 SIII SWB 2.25 petrol ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980211 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 14:36:39 +0000
Subject: Re: The.Big.50@Shugbourgh.Hall
First I've heard of it - could you tell me more, or point me in the right
direction? (LRO or whatever)
Cheers,
Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)
glenn.rees@pareuro.com on 02/10/98 01:22:47 PM
Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com
cc: (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)
Subject: The.Big.50@Shugbourgh.Hall
To all Series one aficionados
How many of you out there from the South East / Home Counties
/south of the Thames area, are going to the Big 50 Bash at
Shugbourgh Hall on June 27. It would seem that various
"Runs" are being organised from the South West and the East.
How about one from "The South" ?
It could also include anyone coming in from Europe via channel
ports. (reply direct as not subscribed to main list)
I will probably be driving up on Friday 26th June from the
north Surrey area with several other locals, but could
arrange a suitable gathering point along the route.
For the 40th Rally in Wales we managed to get 10 vehicles
together, and some of us are still speaking to one another!
Cheers, Glenn
------------------------------
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]Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 16:05:59 +0300 (EET) From: Semih Bingol <semih@leo.ee.hun.edu.tr> Subject: Re: Another engine question (No LR content) To Al and Ron: I am located in Turkey, therefore vapor lock may be the source of the problem. The pump is bolted to the side of the engine block but somehow does not get very hot. Just to make sure, I'll pour cold water (or beer :)) over it next time the problem occurs. The fuel pump frequently gives up (this is my third pump). I'll have to have the pressure tested I believe. To Charles: While trying to diagnose the problem I had torn apart the fuel filter and fitted an aftermarket one. I'll attend that as well. To Jim: I really didn't know about the second fuel filter. Thank you for the removal instructions. Since everything else you mention seems fine (except for the fuel pump) I'll remove and clean this filter immediately. Thanx for all responses. Semih Bingol 74 SIII SWB 2.25 petrol ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980211 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com> Subject: RE: How to change a flat tire? Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 08:41:52 -0800 I've done it on a wheel off of a Fiat X1/9. The center hole on the rim was too small to fit over our tire machine, so we had to change the tire manually. It's the same process as changing a bike tire, only your working with rubber 10 times as thick...so use bigger tire irons! Paul. ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980211 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "T.D.I.Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk> Subject: Mixing wheels and axles Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 17:24:53 -0000 --------------------------------------------- Ian wrote.............. I'm looking for a definitive answer on mixing wheels and axels... I've a 109 with standard LWB rims and the turning circle is cr@p. I'd like a definitive list of which rims can go on which axels, and what effect the combination has on the turning circle (I'm wanting less - what a suprise!) --------------------------------------------- I have some Disco steel rims with 750x16 SAGs. I needed to increase the length of the steering stops to stop them fouling at full lock on a 90, compared to the setting required for normal 90 rims. I think the 130 wheels (possibly the same as the wheels fitted to 1 tonners an FC's (not 101's)?) have more offset to the outside than standard lwb rims. Tom Stevenson SNL Mussel Project University Marine Biological Station, Millport, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland Tel: 01475 530581 Fax: 01475 530601 Email: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk Web page: http://www.gla.ac.uk/Acad/Marine/ ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980211 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS@aol.com Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 12:42:44 EST Subject: Re: Mixing wheels and axles In a message dated 2/10/98 12:29:28 PM, you wrote: >I think the 130 wheels (possibly the same as the wheels fitted to 1 tonners >an FC's (not 101's)?) have more offset to the outside than standard lwb >rims. NAS 110s have the 130 wheels and I believe the offset is 2.25" and the width is 6.5". standard LWB wheels are 5.5 (?) with less offset. This thread gets my vote for the answers and data finding their way onto someone's FAQ page. pat. 93 110 ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980211 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Solihull@aol.com Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 17:13:59 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: How to change a flat tire? On a similar note, Harbor Freight Tools just rolled the price back on their manual tire changer to fifty bucks, so I got one. This is the same one they had offered for sixty, seventy or eighty dollars at other times over the past two years; chinese manufacture, no frills, works great if you have a slab to bolt it down to. JC Witless tries to get $500 for the same thing. The usual disclaimers apply. Cheers!! John Dillingham near Canton, GA KF4NAS LROA #1095 SoLaRoS #23 73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy" 72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1 ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980211 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 1997 22:42:21 +0200 From: Floris Houniet <houniet@xs4all.nl> Subject: unsubscribe unsubscribe land rover owner ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980211 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 19:26:03 -0500 From: Gavin Smith <GavinFSmith@compuserve.com> Subject: Overdrive Ratio Message text written by INTERNET:Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com >Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 01:08:34 -0500 (EST) From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com> Subject: overdrive ratio? What is the ratio of the Fairy overdrive? I think it .73/1, but I can't find it anywhere. I am trying to work out speed in gears and need to kno= w this. Thanks, David/mr. sinclair >Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 01:08:34 -0500 (EST) =46rom memory, my Superwinch (The heir to the Fairey Throne), overdrive r= atio is 1.25 (or 0.8) if you want to go the inverse way. Dont know why you want to work out speeds though, the speedo works off th= e drive shaft so it is still as accurate as it always wasn't. Also even wit= h a 202 cu in Holden motor I can't pull as many revs in overdrive as I can = in 4th direct. So I don't get a true 25% increase in speed. An interesting excersise though, I once worked out all the ratios from low/low/first to Hi/Hi/fourth (The whole 16 of them) just to see what was= involved in using them all. Believe me, working them out on a spreadsheet= was easy, I never did try to use them in practice!!! Cheers Gavin Snith ZL2ACT 66 88" IIA 202 6 pack Superwinch O/D ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980211 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 20:12:04 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: The LROA email list or How a Fifth Columnist has infiltrated us!
Oh, where to start. It seems that our western friends, LROA, have
decided to put together a mailing list to rival the Mendo_recce list
(another western based mailing list for discussing events, etc. A friend
forwarded a copy to me & it proved to be most interesting (yeah, I am in
theory a member of LROA, but they tend to keep a low profile with me at
times, hence not being invited to play... :-) But on to the fun bits!
If you look closely at a message, it appears to be from
lroamail@landrover.net, but the reply to is lroamail@unimog.net!
^^^^^^
Does this mean that our Michael Carridine is a traitor? The real
host appears to be an Unimog one! Oh woe is us. To have a Land Rover
related list dependent upon those foul Germans, the Unimog owners! Such a
travesty is almost like the Gemrmans buying up Rover (Oh, they did that
already... Guess this is phase two. "First we take Manhatten, then we
take Berlin") Wanna bet some config files are going to get changed
pronto? ROFL!
Of course, is this list still pure? Time to check those elusive
headers <checking> Yeah, Bill's still clean... :-) Oh well, time to
check the medal standings... :-)
TTFN from the Great White North, er "Red Menace" according to the
LA Times!
------- Forwarded Message
Subject: Re: LROA Meeting 2/14/98
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]From: "David Cockey" <dcockey@tir.com> Subject: Re: overdrive ratio? Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 21:15:29 -0500 >From "Autocar" 7 Dec 74: Overdrive ratio is 0.782:1 Regards, David Cockey ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980211 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 22:24:31 -0500 (EST)
From: Hank Rutherford <ruthrfrd@borg.com>
Subject: Re:Rings
John M. Baker wrote:
> I am in the process of undoing a number screw-ups by the "mechanic" who
> rebuilt the block of my 2.25. Fortunately before assembling it further I
> decided to do a little investigating work and discovered that tappet
> slides had been installed incorrectly, the oil hole on the con rods was
> facing the wrong way, and the cam gear bolt was finger tight! Which leads
> to a question.
> The pistons are by Hepolite. Some of the compression rings
[ truncated by list-digester (was 35 lines)]
> John M. Baker
> Bangkok
John,
As far as ring markings go, dimples usually go up, and steps go as
follows: If it's inner it's upper, and if it's outer it's downer. Grooves
(usually bevels, actually) at the inner diameter go up. Grooves (usually a
step) at the outer diameter face down. As in most cases, crude sexual
examples can assist an otherwise poor memory. Apologies to those I may have
offended.
Hank Rutherford
" Thin skins are for pudding"
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Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 22:33:18 -0500 (EST)
From: Hank Rutherford <ruthrfrd@borg.com>
Subject: Cam Specs
Does anyone out there in Rover Land know the lift and duration
specifications for a 2.5 liter petrol cam? What are the performance
differences? Is it worth the trouble/expense?
I am compiling information on cylinder head modifications for 2.25
petrol engines. (head thickness/chamber volume/ pushrod lengths/etc). Is
anyone interested in seeing this in a digestible format?
Is there any data out there on head modifications such as chamber
re-shaping, porting, etc?
You can post me direct to save embarrassment and wavelength.
Ruthrfrd@borg.com
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]Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 23:14:30 -0600 (CST) From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@ricochet.net> Subject: Re: Need help At 11:20 AM 2/1/98 -0800, you wrote: >7. How do you tell if the brakes are shot? Drive it to the store. If you get your groceries, pay the cashier, then park the rover, you probably need new brakes. 8^) Uncle Roger "There is pleasure pure in being mad roger@sinasohn.com that none but madmen know." Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates San Francisco, California http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/ ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980211 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 09:01:44 +0000
From: Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Mixing wheels and axles
SPYDERS@aol.com wrote:
> NAS 110s have the 130 wheels and I believe the offset is 2.25" and the width
> is 6.5". standard LWB wheels are 5.5 (?) with less offset.
Does less offset mean that the inner edge of the rim is closer to the
chassis, ie - there is more of a turning circle?
--
----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)
Medicine & Veterinary medicine Support Team,
University Computing Services,
Edinburgh University.
Phone: +44 131 650 3027
Personal Web pages: <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>
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]From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com> Subject: How to change a flat tire? Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 21:27:30 +1100 R. Wade Hughes: >No, seriously, can one replace an inner tube oneself? must be able to, Wade, yes it is possible and, in fact, I've become reasonably adept at it recently. I don't quite a bit of changing to get lots of practice before goling bush. I use two flat 24" tyre levers, and plenty of soapy water. But to explain it ain't easy. The trick is to get the tyre bead broken and then to get it down into the well in the wheel. This allows you to pull the bead up over the rim with the tyre levers and to work your way around. Note, if you are repairing a tube, to get it out you will have to break both the front and back beads. Breaking the bead off the rim is the hardest part and even that is easy with the right tools. I use the Aussie-made R&R Bead Breaker and I learned how to do it all by buying their video tape for the bead breaker. The video goes into the whole box and dice of removing and refitting tyres etc. The manufacturer's written instructions were woefully bad so I rewrote them for him mid-last year. With the right tyre levers, it is really fairly easy and you don't need a mallet so you don't damage the tyre bead. Ron Beckett Emu Plains, NSW, Australia '86 Range Rover 4.6L auto (The Last Aquila) '71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660 1725cc manual '67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc auto '67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc manual Editor, Hillman Owners Club of Australia Newsletter check my home page at http://www.users.bigpond.com/hillman for Hillman and Rover ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980211 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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