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From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Subject: World Series, National Rally, Newspapers
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 07:20:00 -0500

Dixon, under his 'Sandra" pseudonym (A friend for Daphne, maybe) wrote:

Series..............................................
"Actually this one is named after a newspaper who put up the first
trophy."

The "World Weekly News"? ???
"Intergalactic Land Rover Rally planned by Aliens on Mars" WWN
exclusive!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 09:08:22 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: [Fwd: Maine Winter Romp REVISED Schedule]
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: message/rfc822 ]

As of February 8, 1998 25 Rovers and 38 People have pre-registered!
Manrico in Glen Falls, NY (Mbschooner@aol.com) is looking for someone to
convoy with.

                        1998 Winter Romp #3

Friday, February 13, 1998
12:00 - 19:00   Pick-up Registration Packet at School Street Variety in
                        Unity.
19:00           Pizza at the Unity Pit Stop, located next to the
			School Street Variety.
21:00           Late Night Off Roading in the Maine Woods - - - - -
                        Very Rugged! (If you have a Pull Pal, BRING IT!)

Saturday, February 14, 1998
07:00 - 09:00   Breakfast at the Homestead Restaurant
10:00           Registration Information Session at the School
			Street Variety
10:00 - 13:00   Scavenger Hunt  [Items Needed - Map & Compass]
                        Non-Damaging Course through the Rural
Towns,                            Woods & Bogs of Waldo County
13:00           BBQ Lunch & Trials Course - $5.00 per person, 
                        Bring your own beverages (Hot Drinks Provided)
15:00           Off Road Course
18:00           Dinner at the Unity College Student Center
                        Video and Slide Show of Rover Events of
Years                   	past. Bring your stupid &
especially                                    embarrassing (if any)
Rover videos to entertain                     	your friends.
By FORCEFUL Request - Late Night Off Roading!

Sunday, February 15, 1998
09:00 - 10:00   Breakfast at the Unity Pit Stop 
11:00           Trek to top of Harris Mountain  - Fire Tower

Equipment List
1)      A sense of Humor!
2)      Clothing: Conditions might be cold and wet - probably
both.             
Please dress appropriately! Prepare for the worst so you               
will be comfortable.
3)      Tools: Flat shovel, tow strap, 1st aid kit, spare tire, map,    
compass, full size blanket & tool kit.

Accommodations:
Inexpensive motels, B&Bs, and winter camping are available near by. For
housing information contact Bruce Fowler at (207)453-9074 or email Joy
Lynne Foss at joyful@uninets.net

Rover Accommodations:
In the unlikely event of a mechanical failure  - Heated garage
facilities in Unity are available to all participants.

Directions:
>From I-95: Take Exit 35 (Fairfield, Unity College). Follow Route 139 to
Unity (approx. 17 miles). School Street Variety is on the left.

>From Route 1: At Belfast, take Route 137 to Route 220. Take a right at
the intersection at Hilltop Variety and follow Route 220 to Unity. At
Unity Center, take a right onto School Street (Route 139). School Street
Variety is one mile on the right.

Unity is situated near I-95, 30 mile form Augusta, 120 from the White
Mountains, 200 miles from Boston.

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Subject: Mea Culpa, Mea Maxima Culpa , Ugly Adult Content
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 08:13:00 -0500

This weekend it was bright and sunny in Ontario. A perfect day for
cleaning the cars soiled by several days of rain, slush and salt. I
cleaned the Volks and Mary's Ford and applied a coat of polish. Miss
Golightly was parked nearby and I don't know what came over me but I
polished her too. Oh Gods of Seriesdom please forgive me. Hopefully a
few weeks of winter will clear the ravages of the Simoniz. My only
excuse is that Miss G and some others are to participate in the Toronto
Auto Show press day on Thursday and she can't be on TV in a dirty
dress!!! Feeble excuse I know, but there it is.

Trevor "Gosh I can see my face in the bonnet" Easton

------------------------------

From: Tony Treace <atreace@HASimons.com>
Subject: RE: Weber Jetting
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 06:15:08 -0800 

> Does any one have a source for jets for the Weber 1bbl.  Would 
> certainly appreciate it.  

	Try Foreign Auto Supply at 702-825-3030 or
www.webercarburetor.com.
	They recently quoted a price of $125.00 for a Weber 34ICH.

	No connections, etc.

	Tony Treace
	atreace@hasimons.com

	1967 109 SW
	1951 80 HT  

------------------------------

From: GNBull3@aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 09:59:46 EST
Subject: Sodbury Sortout

Anybody out there know when and where the next Sodbury Sortout is. I thought
there was one in late March but I don't have the exact dates. Thanks in
advance

Regards,
George Bull

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 22:22:29 +0700 (ICT)
From: "John M. Baker" <jbaker@ksc8.th.com>
Subject: Rings

I am in the process of undoing a number screw-ups by the "mechanic" who
rebuilt the block of my 2.25. Fortunately before assembling it further I
decided to do a little investigating work and discovered that tappet
slides had been installed incorrectly, the oil hole on the con rods was
facing the wrong way, and the cam gear bolt was finger tight! Which leads
to a question.

The pistons are by Hepolite. Some of the compression rings
are marked top, some marked with the size, and others no marking. There
are two types, one is a little thicker than the other, and if memory
serves me correctly, the ones marked top were thicker, and the ones
marked with the oversize were thinner. I assembled the
pistons with the thicker ring on the top land, and the thinner one on the
second. It seemed right at the time, but now I am wondering.  
I was
unable to distinguish any feature (other than the markings) that would
determine which side should be up. Two questions:

1. Should the thicker ring be on top?

2. Is there a way to determine the right side up for the comp rings, in
the absence of any marking? I tried to notice any chamfer or other
difference but really could not tell, even in bright sunlight.

Pistons are in the bores but nothing is laced up so it is not too late to
correct if wrong. Thanks in advance for any of you who might be able to
help on this.

Regards,

John M. Baker
Bangkok
 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 13:04:47 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Rings

John M. Baker wrote:
> I am in the process of undoing a number screw-ups by the "mechanic" who
> rebuilt the block of my 2.25. Fortunately before assembling it further I
> decided to do a little investigating work and discovered that tappet
> slides had been installed incorrectly, the oil hole on the con rods was
> facing the wrong way, and the cam gear bolt was finger tight! Which leads
> to a question.
> The pistons are by Hepolite. Some of the compression rings
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 35 lines)]
> John M. Baker
> Bangkok
  John If the rings have no indication that there is an up or down then
it won't matter which way they go. Unless there is a chamfer it isn't
critical.
     Good luck with the r3build    John C

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 09:00:10 -0800
From: Todd_Wilson@ccmail.columbia.com (Todd Wilson)
Subject: Relay tip

     
     I don't know if anyone else has tried this. 
     
     I rebuilt the steering relay a few weeks ago. I did it with the relay 
     body still in the truck. The issue was how to recompress the spring to 
     get the damn thing back together. 
     
     I ended up using Zip ties. I looped them around 3-4 coils of the 
     spring and cinched them down a little. I spaced 3 of them evenly 
     around the radius of the spring and tightened them down gradually to 
     collapse the spring. I did this until I was able to put additional 
     ties taking in more coils of the spring. In 15 min. or so I had the 
     spring down to the point where all the coils were touching each other 
     and I had only three zip ties on the thing. It was tight but with a 
     little 80-90wt I was able to slip the whole thing over the shaft. I 
     hose clamped the fiber bushings on and then cut the Zip ties one at a 
     time. 
     
     I was then able to reinstall the loaded shaft into the relay body and 
     bolt it all up. 
     
     Just thought I'd pass it along to anyone else that didn't have the 
     "factory" tool.
     
     tew

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 12:16:54 -0500
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Subject: Wheel straightening

A couple of months ago, someone posted a nifty idea for straightening out wheels bent by over zealous off-roading or the diminished-cpapcity blokes at the tire place.  When I picked up my new trac Edges, one was slightly bent.  (They seemed to take great care with the other wheels, so I don't think it was 'new' damage.)  If you could repost it or steer me to the article in the archives, i'd appreciate it.  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, <italic>LAND-ROVER</italic> is 
Legendary----*

  |                                                   |

  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |

  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |

  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |

  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |

  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |

  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 17:14:21 +0000
From: Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Subject: Mixing wheels and axels

I'm looking for a definitive answer on mixing wheels and axels...

I've a 109 with standard LWB rims and the turning circle is cr@p.

I'd like a definitive list of which rims can go on which axels, and what
effect the combination has on the turning circle (I'm wanting less - what a
suprise!)

This is what I have so far....

SWB with 15" rims - standard
SWB with SI & SII rims - all the extra width is on the inside, less turning
circle
SWB with SIII LWB rims - extra width evenly spread, slightly less than
default turning circle
SWB with RR rims - ?
SWB with Disco rims - ?
SWB with FC (not 101!) rims - ?

LWB with LWB rims - standard (about 40')
LWB with RR rims - ?
LWB with Disco rims - ?
LWB with FC (not 101!) rims - ?
-- 

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)
    Medicine & Veterinary medicine Support Team,
    University Computing Services, 
    Edinburgh University. 
    Phone: +44 131 650 3027

Personal Web pages: <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: Wrecked 109
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 10:27:28 -0800

I Made a road trip to a wrecking yard in Naniamo (BC Canada) this
weekend.

They have a 1969 (suffix G) 109" five door that had been crushed by a
large tree.  Most of the body panels have been crushed, including the
bulkhead, but the drive train, gearbox, engine and radiator seemed to be
in good condition.  It also had a brand new looking heater assembly
(Kodiak, I think?)

The dash panel with all of the gauges is still there but has been
exposed to the weather for a while.

Let me know if you want more information.  Any wrecking yard in North
America should be able to order bits from this car for you as they are
all linked by computer/telex.  

Let me know if you want details...

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88"
Victoria, BC  Canada

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: Wrecked 109
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 10:59:51 -0800

I forgot to mention that it also had a nice pair of 'Selectro' locking
hubs.

Paul.

------------------------------

From: "David Hope" <davidjhope@email.msn.com>
Subject: llA Brakes, again
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 16:02:01 -0600

Sorry to keep posting on the same boring subject but...I just cannot seem to
get it right.

When I bleed the brakes the brake pedal is really firm, has little travel
and braking is excellent (for a Landy with 10in. drums etc.).  But over the
course of about two weeks and say 200 miles driving something changes to the
point where there is much more movement in the brake pedal and I have to
push really hard to get good braking.  Significantly, if I pump the brakes
the pedal behaves exactly the same on the second or third application - ie a
lot of free play following by a lot of thigh muscle to get the vehicle
stopped.

About the only thing I have not looked into is the master cylinder.

David Hope
64llA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 16:26:07 -0800
From: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Subject: Re: llA Brakes, again

David Hope wrote:
> Sorry to keep posting on the same boring subject but...I just cannot seem to
> get it right.
> When I bleed the brakes the brake pedal is really firm, has little travel
> and braking is excellent (for a Landy with 10in. drums etc.).  But over the
> course of about two weeks and say 200 miles driving something changes to the
> point where there is much more movement in the brake pedal and I have to
> push really hard to get good braking.  Significantly, if I pump the brakes
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
> David Hope
> 64llA
Don't know if I've followed all of this. Have you checked for oil on the
shoes? Kind of a Time Speed Distance sort of failure. 'course LRs don't
leak....sorry ;-).
cheers   Peter

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 18:27:24 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: llA Brakes, again

David Hope wrote:
> Sorry to keep posting on the same boring subject but...I just cannot seem to
> get it right.
> When I bleed the brakes the brake pedal is really firm, has little travel
> and braking is excellent (for a Landy with 10in. drums etc.).  But over the
> course of about two weeks and say 200 miles driving something changes to the
> point where there is much more movement in the brake pedal and I have to
> push really hard to get good braking.  Significantly, if I pump the brakes
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
> stopped.
> About the only thing I have not looked into is the master cylinder.
 Well David I think you just answered your own question. Do the Master
Cylinder.
           John

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 17:41:50 -0500 (EST)
From: PETER KASKAN <PKASKAN@clarku.edu>
Subject: IIA Brakes

Do you have a brake servo - my system kept failing after a complete going over
-except for the servo- Peter Kaskan

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 07:50:12 -0500
From: DAVID H LOWE <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Subject: Re: landrover conversions

masmith wrote:

> hi everyone im looking for more info regarding tho scotties
> conversions!.the conversion that i have at the moment mates a chevy
> engine to a  landrover gear box.is this a scotties conversion? it was
> obtained by me from a scrapper in 1990.the conversion was put into the
> scraper in 1978,and run for one year,it was a inline six cylinder
> chev.the main reason im asking this is because im looking to trade it
> for the conversion that adapts a chev transmission to the rover transfer
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
> tony smith borden on. canada
> and the moneypit

Tony  Have you considered the Ian Ashcroft conversion that mates a Borg
Warner 65 or 66 auto box to the L.R.transfer box. The beauty of this
conversion is that he modifies the tr. box gearing to raise the high range (
no need to change the diffs.) but leaves the low range the same.He also
changes the valve block in the box to make it "hold" in second
gear.Therefore 3rd. is auto 1st. and 2nd hold in gear. B.W.65 and 66 boxes
are used in Jags, Rover SD.1, and I think Bimmers.The SD1 bell housing mates
to the V8 which is the same bolt pattern ,I think as the Chev.6 The only
potential glitch is the length of the 6 .Was your front crossmember moved
forward on your vehicle.

------------------------------

From: Charlie Dawson <Charlie@Elvis.Conquipinc.com>
Subject: transmission conversion
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 16:36:22 -0000

Hey (mansmith???),
I am installing a Muncie SM465 along with a NP205 transfer case in my
109.  Following is an exert from a conversation with a fellow who put
a Muncie (don't know what) ahead of a Rover transfer case.  He didn't
do it, but may be able to get some info for you.  I decided it would
be cleaner to have a package which bolts together and is more robust,
hence the NP205.  I don't have a motor yet, but am looking at a Chevy
4.3L rather than a 350.

Here's his email:  Mark Sullivan <marks@dataflowsys.com>
I have a 109 SW that used to be the 6 cyl. The guy I bought it from
put in a Chevy 350. This goes through a Mucie four speed  and then
into a adaptor to the standard LR transfer box. The OD is still used.
As far as modes go, there was not cutting of the bulk head, the
exhausts are readily available.  The engine mounts from what I have
seen don't seem to have moved. He did however add strengthening
brackets. The gearbox move towards the back about an inch, so the rear
pro shaft is slightly shorter, a task any US proshaft expert can deal
with. The springs have a few more leafs, 11 I think. The clutch is the
standard LR with a special bracket (1/4" angle iron). The thing drives
great. I did change the long half shaft as if was twisting, and he had
said he did the same five years before that (at this rate who cares).
If you have any other question email me back!"
"The vehicle does 50-60 happily, the revs at 50 are about 2200 with
the OD engaged and 3200without. The prevoius owner (9 years) and I
have changed one =BD shaft. The card is a standard Rochester. I have
only been off road once, as I have been waiting for a spare wheel. It
seemed to cope well.  Even the heavier front end didn't have a
problem. With hind sight, I would have moved the engine forward the
inch, this would have given a bit more room in side and allowed the
standard props. Having said that, getting a modified prop is cheaper
than getting a LR standard prop in the US.  Overall, yes there are
things that I might have done different, but at the end of the day, I
have a solution that works well !!!!!!"
later
Chaz cdawson@conquiping.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 01:08:34 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Subject: overdrive ratio?

What is the ratio of the Fairy overdrive?  I think it .73/1, but I can't
find it anywhere.  I am trying to work out speed in gears and need to know
this.

Thanks,
David/mr. sinclair

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 10:13:13 +0200 (EET)
From: "R. Wade Hughes" <hughes@trshp.trs.ntc.nokia.com>
Subject: Birmabright?

-- 
Ok gentlemen (and members of the opposite sex(es?)):
It's time for me to submit my weird questions for Feb.
Here's the first (not trivial in my opinion):
I noticed the other day, on the cast aluminum trailer electrical
connection mounted on the rear x-member, that famous white oxide
coating on it. I says to myself, "ah, this is that galvanic-cell
reaction that is eating up these newer Discoverys & Defenders".
Hmm, interesting...absolutely no "oxides" on my old Birmabright panels
anywhere, not even in the wheel wells...it's not supposed to dissolve
away, that's one of the main reasons I bought a LR. Rather the steel
rusts away of course! I had also just got hold of a used SII door, and
the steel was rusty some, but the Birmabright, which makes direct
contact to the steel at the door edges where it folds over, was
intact.
Now I bring this subject up because I should soon get the money from
the other's insurance company for using my "crumple zone", (my bumper
& fender/wing, his Ford Cortina), and I'll replace the fender before
the yearly Finnish MoT comes for me...
So it looks like the older Birmabright Al-Mg alloy compostion is
better than whatever is in new stuff nowadays (Sn?) I might be able to
get hold of one old north of here, from a couple of places. So even if
it has character dents, it will outlast a "new" fender from a parts
outsourcer. True?
Maybe this has been discussed earlier, but I wonder if LR has changed
the metellurgical composition of their sheet stock in a way that
increases the potential difference with steel...
Is the older stuff more resistant?
Any metallurgists/chemists out there who can shed light on this matter?

Regards, Wade
R. Wade Hughes
Integration Engineer, Network Management Systems    
NTC, Nokia Group            
Valimotie 1, 2nd Floor      82 Pontiac GP 267 V8 T-Roof    (in Canada)
00045 Helsinki, Finland     70 Land Rover SIIA Petrol Hardtop "Zenith"
  Tel: (358-9)-511-6332     73 Citroen 2CV (6-engine) Red     "Zéphyr"
  Fax: (358-9)-511-63310
Email: hughes@trshp.ntc.nokia.com (Unix)
   or:  wade.hughes@ntc.nokia.com (MS Mail)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 10:30:55 +0200 (EET)
From: "R. Wade Hughes" <hughes@trshp.trs.ntc.nokia.com>
Subject: How to change a flat tire?

-- 
Please, stop laughing!
No, seriously, can one replace an inner tube oneself? must be able to,
because I saw in the Brownchurch price list a tire iron-tube type
listed. Now I know I have a set of two little pry bars at home for a
bicycle tire, so that you use one to lift the bead up, hook the other
end on a spoke, then use the other, etc. So I figure one needs two pry
bars (or gooseneck nailpullers?) to lift the bead over a std LR rim.
Can't even remember if my dad ever had tube tires on his 65 Chev
Stepside, so Ive not seen it done.
Has anybody? Like to be able to in a jam in the bush.

"Plastic wears out, metal wears in" - a quote from "Bicycling"
magazine in the early 70's discussing Simplex vs. Campanogno
derailleurs.

Regards, Wade
R. Wade Hughes
Integration Engineer, Network Management Systems    
NTC, Nokia Group            
Valimotie 1, 2nd Floor      82 Pontiac GP 267 V8 T-Roof    (in Canada)
00045 Helsinki, Finland     70 Land Rover SIIA Petrol Hardtop "Zenith"
  Tel: (358-9)-511-6332     73 Citroen 2CV (6-engine) Red     "Zéphyr"
  Fax: (358-9)-511-63310
Email: hughes@trshp.ntc.nokia.com (Unix)
   or:  wade.hughes@ntc.nokia.com (MS Mail)

------------------------------

From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Subject: : Ammeter Reads Negative
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 20:54:57 +1100

PETER KASKAN
>Now my alternator is baked. I have occasionally used 35 amps total
>from the "43amp" alternator, but I didn't think that this would be too
>much for it. Is it?

Alternators are largely self limiting.  Taking 35 amps from a 43 Amp
alternator shouldn't worry it.  However, for how long at a time were you
running at high current?

Ammeters are easy to dead easy to install.  All  you need are two long bits
of heavy cable, one end of each to have lugs to suit the ammeter.  On the
other end of one of them have a large to suit the alternator (e.g, female
spade or a large lug).  The other cable has a connector to suit the cable
that originally came off the alternator.  Route the cables up to the
ammeter, disconnect the cable from the alternator, plug it into the ammeter
cable, plug the other ammeter cable to the alternator. That's it.

If it reads backward, disconnect the battery, swap the leads over at the
ammeter, reconnect the battery and test it again.  Don't let anyone tell you
it is difficult.

 How was the ammeter installed?  Like this?

Alternator +  -------(Ammeter) ----|----------------Battery +
                                                   to Ign switch
Regards,

Ron Beckett

Are these problems somehow related?
Thanks for your advice - Peter Kaskan

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 12:35:33 +0000
From: Jos de Vries <vriesde7@dutccis.ct.tudelft.nl>
Subject: Re: How to change a flat tire?

hello all,

this is the way i did change my tires:
1. deflate tire
2. break the tire bead, e.g. with a (high) jack press the tire down 
; loose from the rim so you can insert the lever between tire and 
rim
3. the same as a bike, lever de tire over the rim bit by bit
4. the inner tube is free to take out

the installing procedure is the reverse, but instead of breaking the 
bead inflate the tire slowly so the tire can settle around the rim.

Two tire levers is enough.

greetings
Jos de Vries
109 D Santana  SW  '71 IIA/III 

------------------------------

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