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From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 1998 07:34:16 EST
Subject: Starters

Ok, Ok, who's been keeping the secret???

Got a sale flyer from Safari Guard yesterday.  Low and behold
they have an MG starter on sale for $275.00 specifically for 
Series vehicles.  These are a reduction gear driven starter with
more torque and a lower profile.  I've got access to an MG parts
car which still has the starter, but before I plunk down my 
monies, I'd like to know:  Has anyone used one?  Successfully?
Is an MG starter a direct bolt up or do you need to
make modifications?  If so, which bits??

Thanks!!

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 1998 07:52:53 EST
Subject: Re:  Re trip to Junque Yard (Wreckers in Aust)

In a message dated 2/4/98 2:46:12 AM, you wrote:

>A thought in wiring the clock, are 2 of the wires supposed to go to
>permanent power so the clock keeps going and 2 to the regular ignition power
>for some king of internal light?. Most car stereos are wired that way.

Two wires are probably wired direct, and the other two are an independent
ground and a  +ive lead that gets power from the headlight switch (?), so that
when you turn your lights on, the clock illuminates along with the rest of
your instruments, maybe.

Car stereos usually have an orange or blue wire that goes to the battery or
any constant source of power to maintain the memory of preset stations, or
security code, etc.

pat
93  110

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Feb 1998 08:11:09 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: Re: Starters

>Ok, Ok, who's been keeping the secret???
>Got a sale flyer from Safari Guard yesterday.  Low and behold
>they have an MG starter on sale for $275.00 specifically for
>Series vehicles.  These are a reduction gear driven starter with
>more torque and a lower profile.  I've got access to an MG parts
>car which still has the starter, but before I plunk down my
>monies, I'd like to know:  Has anyone used one?  Successfully?
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
>Is an MG starter a direct bolt up or do you need to
>make modifications?  If so, which bits??

The "MG" in MG starters stand for "Mean Green", a hot rod/ custom company
in PA. They make HD geared starters for LR's and everything else. These are
HD long life starters, and don't come from MG's sports cars. We sent them a
2.25 starter about a year ago, and now with urging from us and others they
make units for Rover V8's and 2.25s.
Have a great day.

From: Mike Smith,  EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 1998 08:20:12 EST
Subject: Re: Three Items.

In a message dated 2/3/98 9:08:41 PM Eastern Standard Time,
mstockdale@pop3.mho.net writes:

<< Oh and by the way do it the 
 way real men do - From above.  (that removeable crossmember is a 
 bunch of BS.)  ever wonder why the boys at Mansfield don't bother
 cleaning the Galv of the bolts.? (its useless)  Personal opinion  >>

Changed a clutch last year.  Same opinion.  Almost killed my mechanic when the
transmission slipped off the lift.  Dent in the floor of the shop.  Gearbox
unscathed.

Nate

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Feb 1998 10:06:38 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Need help

The timing chain adjuster has a ratchet mechanism that if working
properly will prevent the chain from slackening at low pressure at idle.
It is possible that the slide on your adjuster was too tight to move
untill you had higher oil pressure to overcome the stiffness. This exact
situation has occurred to me. I had to remove the tensioner and file the
tang that slides in the slot in the block, that done all was well with
20 psi at idle. The accepted Industry standard for min. oil pressure is
10 psi per 1000 rpm hot.
     John and Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Feb 1998 09:57:39 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: 109 diesel 1 ton?

Mike, your encyclopedic knowledge is missing a page. Diesel 109 1 tons
were produced up to the end of 109 production. There were 3 of these in
cab and chassis configuration shipped to a mine in northern Ontario in
1983 however the mine went broke while they in transit. One of them was
stranded at the docks in Halifax NS. for a number of years.Finally
someone whose name escapes me was able to officially import it as it was
not a complete vehicle. The new owner put on a 1968 SW body and replaced
the trans mission with a IIA unit because it would do 40 mph. The 1 ton
tranny was given to the mechanic who did the work who in turn sold it to
me thus I was able to aquire a seriesIII gearbox and Transfer case with
300 miles for $200. This the main reason why Muddy has such large tire
and yet goes so slowly.
     Any time you are in need of more totally useless information just
give me a call!
     John and Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Feb 1998 09:26:12 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: Re: 109 diesel 1 ton?

>Mike, your encyclopedic knowledge is missing a page.
>     Any time you are in need of more totally useless information just
>give me a call!
>     John and Muddy

John, I'm confused. I only know about US Rovers, SIIA and early SIII's and
the like. I don't know much about SIII's from 1983. Were these diesel 1
tons SIIAs (the ones I said didn't exist)? Or 1983's (the ones I would have
no knowledge of)?

Just grabbed my James Taylor and other reference books. Looks like we need
to give him a call. He only lists petrol 1 tons, starting in 1966 and
ending in 1979 with both 2.6's and 2.25's. Probably where I got the "fact"
;-) anyway. Keep expanding my mind! :-)
Have a great day.

From: Mike Smith,  EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 1998 14:32:44 +0000
Subject: Re: 109 diesel 1 ton?

Is there any reason why the engine wasn't swapped by a Previous Owner?

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

ecrover@midcoast.com on 02/04/98 02:26:12 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Re: 109 diesel 1 ton?

>Mike, your encyclopedic knowledge is missing a page.
>     Any time you are in need of more totally useless information just
>give me a call!
>     John and Muddy
John, I'm confused. I only know about US Rovers, SIIA and early SIII's and
the like. I don't know much about SIII's from 1983. Were these diesel 1
tons SIIAs (the ones I said didn't exist)? Or 1983's (the ones I would have
no knowledge of)?
Just grabbed my James Taylor and other reference books. Looks like we need
to give him a call. He only lists petrol 1 tons, starting in 1966 and
ending in 1979 with both 2.6's and 2.25's. Probably where I got the "fact"
;-) anyway. Keep expanding my mind! :-)
Have a great day.
From: Mike Smith,  EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

From: "Peter Monk" <monk@calypso.math.udel.edu>
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 1998 09:58:04 -0500
Subject: Series IIa Gearbox X-member

Hi:
I have a 1967 Series IIa SWB in rebuild.  In the past someone has hacked off
the
gearbox X-member and then welded it back on.  I know nothing about welding, but
the weld looks terrible to me.  The X-member is not properly aligned with the
pieces left on the chassis and not continuously welded to them.  I seem
to remember hearing somewhere that bolt-on X-members are available.  Does
anyone have information about them?  For example a source, how much of the
original X-member do you need left on the chassis, do they work well? Would
it be better to clean up the existing cross-member? Or just paint and continue
(with the rebuild)?

My thanks in advance.

Peter Monk

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 1998 09:48:41 EST
Subject: Re: Starters

Mike,

Thanks for the info!  Guess I should have looked at the picture
of the starter a little harder before posting.  However, it does
look like a neat piece of kit.

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Feb 1998 09:58:17 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: Re: 109 diesel 1 ton?

>Is there any reason why the engine wasn't swapped by a Previous Owner?

No reason at all. Just that on this 109 the seller was saying that is "all
original, low miles, one owner" that sort of thing. So I was wondering
where it came from.
Have a great day.

From: Mike Smith,  EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Need help
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 98 09:03:22 -0600
From: asanna <asanna@sacofoods.com>

>The timing chain adjuster has a ratchet mechanism that if working
>properly will prevent the chain from slackening at low pressure at idle.
>It is possible that the slide on your adjuster was too tight to move
>untill you had higher oil pressure to overcome the stiffness....  
>...The accepted Industry standard for min. oil pressure is10 psi per 1000 rpm 
hot.

No, the ratchet moved freely alright, but the ratchet doesn't keep the 
chain fully tensioned, it just keeps the tensioner from getting sloppy 
when the pressure drops.  It only allows for a limited amount of back 
travel before a tooth stops it.  The problem is (or was) that the rapid 
drop in pressure on decelaration gradually wore the teeth down to allow 
more play.  I can't remember if it was the catch tooth on the tensioner 
or the ratchet teeth, but once it started the chain whip on deceleration 
would wear a groove through the asbestos pad on the vibration damper and 
right through the metal backing at the ends, eventually stretching the 
chain, and twice breaking it.  

It's a really easy diagnosis.  When the chain gets stretched and sloppy, 
you'll hear this tin can rattling sound when you decelerate, and if you 
put a timing light on it, you'll see the mark jumping around wildly, even 
at idle.  If you hold a new timing chain sideways at one end, there will 
be very little droop to it.  A stretched chain will sag by an inch+.

Just remember that it is the rapid drop in pressure/tensioning that 
starts this whole process.  A chain traveling at 3500 engine rpm that 
suddenly looses tension will have a lot of uncontained energy.  I 
wouldn't doubt that 10 psi at idle is OK. The engine is not under load, 
there is low momentum, and no changes in speed.

Tony & Lulubelle

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Avenue
Middleton, Wisconsin  53562  USA

asanna@sacofoods.com

1-800-373-7226
(608) 238-9101

------------------------------

From: "Huub Pennings" <HPS@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 1998 16:02:11 +0100
Subject:       Re: Series IIa Gearbox X-member

Hello Peter,

If the weld looks ugly you should clean it up with an angle grinder 
and find out what the quality of the attachment is.
The way you discribe it I personally woud grind it of and weld it on 
in the correct position. Sounds like a cheap job for any welder.
If the X-member is not properly aligned it might put stress on other 
parts of your chassis.
Bolt-on X-members are available and were for military '88's they can 
be ordered but you would have to make attachment points for these as 
well.
If you tell us where you are we might be able to give you some advise 
on where to purchase these parts.
Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Feb 1998 10:04:58 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: Re: Starters

>Mike,
>Thanks for the info!  Guess I should have looked at the picture
>of the starter a little harder before posting.  However, it does
>look like a neat piece of kit.

They work well. You can drive on them, start in gear on the trail easier,
last longer etc. They cost a bit more for Series Rovers, but the V8 version
is cheaper and better (than genuine).
My only complaint about them... (have one on the RR, one on a Bronco, and
Alan runs one in his 88) is that they need to be waterproofed before
installation if you plan to submerge your rig a lot (like I do). We lost 2
due to water failure last year. But the good thing is that MG just replaced
them no questions asked because it was under the 2 year warranty.

From: Mike Smith,  EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 04 Feb 98 09:32:12 EST
Subject: Re[6]: Need help

TeA:
>>So just what does the phrase "As far as I know" mean to you?? ANYTHING???

Moi:
Clearly a plausible declaration of ignorance, followed by a huge blanket 
statement that suggests knowledge covering an area much larger than the first 
half of the sentence would imply.

> Have you considered the concept of reading an 
>entire sentence?  Is there a problem understanding a complete sentence?

I'm thinking about downsizing, due to the apparent redundancy of entrie 
paragraphs. Its so repetetive. Its like reading the same thing over and over 
again.

>But since you make your self out to be an expert on the subject of who 
>makes and sells IIA transmissions modified to be all syncro, who makes & 
>sells them? I just checked, and full syncro series IIA transmissions are 
>not listed in current Rovers North, Atlantic British nor British Pacific 
>catalogues.

There you go again, making statements about "The World" and then referencing 
only the three largest North American suppliers. Did you call any of them? 
I'm sure there are companies in areas of "The World" that have more LR's than 
North America that do these kind of set-ups. I will GUESS that one of them is 
Ashcroft Conversions.
 Also I remember Duncan Brown stating on this list a few years ago that he 
bought a full synchro IIa box at Rovers North for his Series II, it was quite a 
nice story. Actually, I remember it well. He drove up to VT from Virginia with 
his old engine and gearbox, and had RN swap in a Turner long block and a full 
synchro IIa box w/OD. He drove it around up there to break in the engine, and 
then drove it back, and got 22 mpg (according to him anyway). There, and that is
from memory. Of course, I probably spend too much time on this list and place 
way too much importance on LR's in proportion to other things in my life, so 
maybe that's why I remembered that story and you didn't.
 Didn't mean for you to get your knickers all in a bunch, but I do think its 
important to be careful what you tell people on this list. You are considered 
the "grandma" of the list, and people listen to you. As a respected source of 
information, you, in the same way that news services do, have a responsibility 
to uphold a standard of quality of information that is second to none. 
 Now relax get over it, and go have a beer on me. I will too. I am not going to 
apologize to you. I will admit that I was being an ass but that is my god-given 
right, and god-taken away only as well. Flame away, I will be happy to oblige.
Stop, drop, and roll.... 

BTW, I disagree on the deisel issue, you state that "yes I have seen the 
300 tdi in action.  I just like more power", yet you drive a 2.25 petrol. 
Are you saying the 2.25 has more power than the 300tdi? Or are you just 
saying that if you did an engine conversion you would want more power than 
a 300tdi? What would you prefer, a LR V8? 
Just curious. I'm thinking about building a 100" hybrid on a RR chassis.
It WILL be green.

later
DaveB   

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Feb 1998 12:44:07 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: 109 diesel 1 ton?

East Coast Rover Co. wrote:
> >Mike, your encyclopedic knowledge is missing a page.
> >     Any time you are in need of more totally useless information just
> >give me a call!
> >     John and Muddy
> John, I'm confused. I only know about US Rovers, SIIA and early SIII's and
> the like. I don't know much about SIII's from 1983. Were these diesel 1

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
> to give him a call. He only lists petrol 1 tons, starting in 1966 and
> ending in 1979 with both 2.6's and 2.25's. Probably where I got the "fact"
 Mike, These Rovers were definately 1983 series III ie the last year
before the 110s came out and they were certainly one tons but due to
their intended use as underground mine transport they may have come from
Special Vehicles and so not show up on regular production records.
There is a casting date on my gearbox of 1982 which ties in with the
other info. 
   Perhaps I should drop a line to James T with this info, he is always
looking for more stuff and some times has the odd tiny mistake eg. his
understanding that the NADA 6 Station wagons had Kodiac heaters.
      John

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Feb 1998 13:35:38 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <Seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: 109 diesel 1 ton?

john cranfield wrote:
> Mike, your encyclopedic knowledge is missing a page. Diesel 109 1 tons
> were produced up to the end of 109 production. There were 3 of these in
> cab and chassis configuration shipped to a mine in northern Ontario in
> 1983 however the mine went broke while they in transit. One of them was
> stranded at the docks in Halifax NS. for a number of years.Finally
> someone whose name escapes me was able to officially import it as it was
> not a complete vehicle. The new owner put on a 1968 SW body and replaced
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
> give me a call!
>      John and Muddy

John;  Is the body etc the one that's sitting handy me? I hear its got a 
sordid tale , being left at teh dockyards for years.

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: Replaceing Rear Crossmember
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 1998 09:47:35 -0800

Budgeting time.

A question for anyone who has replaced their rear cross-member.

I am trying to budget in having my new rear cross-member (with
extensions) welded in.  I will remove the bodywork myself.  I would like
to know approximately how many hours work is involved in cutting off the
rusty remains of the old cross-member and welding in the new one.  I
know that it depends on how far up the frame rails the rust worm has
eaten, I just want a ball park estimate of time involved.  

I know a local welder who is considered to be a bit of an artist  with a
MIG and charges $40/hour.

Paul Quin
1961 Series II
Victoria, BC  Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Feb 1998 08:06:44 -1000
From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Subject: Re: headlight location/year

	Wasn't the 68 model year the last with the inboard headlights???
	Just for my info:  I'd heard that British laws required lights in fenders
and were the reason that LR changed from lights in the breakfast.  Recently
I have seen pictures from England of '69 and I believe '70 lr's with the
lights in the breakfast.  They could have been modified, but that wasn't
mentioned on the captions on the photos. Anybody know what the real skinny is.

 '66 was the last year LR came into the US with inboard lights.  
>>Mark
>TeriAnn Wakeman 
>Santa Cruz, California
>NOTE NEW E-MAIL ADDRESS twakeman@cruzers.com

------------------------------

From: "Huub Pennings" <HPS@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 1998 19:11:53 +0100
Subject:       Re: Replaceing Rear Crossmember

Hello Paul,

If he is an artist he should be able to do it in aprox. 2 hours tops. 
Most of the time wil not be used for the welding but to precisely 
measure and cut the frame so it will all fit after the job is done. 

Don't cut it off yourself! He will have to measure the original 
before cutting it of.

Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: headlight location/year
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 1998 10:11:54 -0800

I think that it was Australian legislation that forces the lights onto
the wings first.  

Knowing Land Rover, they probably produced both setups for a while until
old stock of grill panels was used up.

Paul.

>-----Original Message-----
>From:	Faye and Peter Ogilvie [SMTP:ogilvi@hgea.org]
>Sent:	Wednesday, February 04, 1998 10:07 AM
>To:	lro@playground.sun.com
>Subject:	Re: headlight location/year

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 23 lines)]
>>Santa Cruz, California
>>NOTE NEW E-MAIL ADDRESS twakeman@cruzers.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Feb 1998 18:13:26 +0000
From: Roydon Woodford <roydon@landrover.org>
Subject: Re: Replaceing Rear Crossmember

Hi, 

I had originally planned to remove the body etc when changing the rear
cross member but the local Landrover Garage advised me of a trick which I
employed when changing the rear cross member (I had no problems but someone
may point the error of my ways!!!)

The trick is to support the chassis on stands just before the rear springs.
When you have the vehicle raised and the rear cross member level disconnect
the rear shackles and cut through the chassis with the old grinder far
enough back to remove the rot but make sure the legs are long enough to reach.
When you have cut through unbolt the cross member from the body work.

When you refit the new cross member all you have to do is slide it on and
bolt up in a level position, then weld around the legs. There is enough
clearance between chassis and body work for any good welder to be able to
access the top and complete the job. The last time this took 5 1/2 hours
from start to finish on a series III.

I also cut a cross into the each side of the legs and welded that to the
chassis for extra strength.

Main thing to check is that things are level and true at all times. If you
can afford to remove the body, electrics etc and then reassemble you may
get a slightly better better job and you may reduce the welding and cutting
time to an 1 hour but increase the work.

What do other people think to this, has anybody else tried this method?

Regards
Roydon

At 09:47 04/02/98 -0800, you wrote:
>Budgeting time.
>A question for anyone who has replaced their rear cross-member.
>I am trying to budget in having my new rear cross-member (with
>extensions) welded in.  I will remove the bodywork myself.  I would like

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 21 lines)]
>1961 Series II
>Victoria, BC  Canada

Landrover Owners Group
>http://www.landrover.org
roydon@landrover.org
info@landrover.org
mobile: 44 976 943089

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 04 Feb 98 13:20:30 EST
Subject: Re: Replaceing Rear Crossmember

Paul asks... 

>I know a local welder who is considered to be a bit of an artist  with a
>MIG and charges $40/hour.

You *don't* want to pay a welders hourly rate for all of this work. it 
always ends up eating up more time than its worth, and most of the results 
I've seen look real nice where they started out, and then gets sloppier 
where they start running out of time. Unless you've got some serious 
"coin-muscle".
Best bet? Do all the cutting and grinding yourself, get the new x-member in 
place and perfectly aligned, screw it in place with sheetmetal screws, and 
then either drive it over (slowly) or have him come out and zip it all 
together. A friend rebuilt his whole frame this way, piece by piece, and it 
truned out great. BTW, to get the tops of the frame rails on the 
x-member,you don't need to pull the rear tub, just unbolt across the back 
and pry it up. If you already have the tub off then you'll need to trailer 
it over there or have him come to you.
I just started repairing an old volvo, and have acces to a welder. Isuggest 
buying a unit yourself and teaching yourself how to do it. It gives you a 
whole new perspective on working on cars. especially LR's. Metal becomes 
something you can work. Think of metal as a fluid rather than solid...
it's really cool! (that there's technical talk) 
and above ALL else, don't forget to pull the wiring harness out of the 
frame rail. Tie a "zip line" to the end before you do it, makes it easier 
to pull back through...use coat hanger where its gonna get hot...

yackety yack
DaveB
Arlington VA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Feb 1998 08:17:27 -1000
From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Subject: Re: Starters

Get your rover starter rebuilt.  Should cost around $50.  Despite all the
prince of darkness jokes, I have put 14 years on my rebulit starter.  $275
could be spent a lot more wisely.
s

At 07:34 AM 2/4/98 EST, you wrote:
>Ok, Ok, who's been keeping the secret???
>Got a sale flyer from Safari Guard yesterday.  Low and behold
>they have an MG starter on sale for $275.00 specifically for 
>Series vehicles.  These are a reduction gear driven starter with
>more torque and a lower profile.  I've got access to an MG parts

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)]
>Larry Smith
>Chester, VA

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 04 Feb 98 13:32:53 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Replaceing Rear Crossmember

>>If he is an artist he should be able to do it in aprox. 2 hours tops. 

If he can do it that fast than ignore my previous message.
Depends also wether spring hangers are included, or not...that can add ALOT of 
time.
DaveB

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: Re[2]: Replaceing Rear Crossmember
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 1998 10:54:19 -0800

Wow, thanks for all the quick replies.

I plan to remove the rear tub anyway in order to properly
clean-prime-paint the rear half of the chassis.  I have already done the
front and was planning to do the rear when the front is back together.
I've also got a new wiring harness to string in after the work is done.
If I do lose the old one, I guess I could stand the Rover on it's nose,
tie a fishing weight to the new harness and let gravity do the work! ;-)
 Just like stringing a new halyard down the mast of a sailboat...

>From all of my pounding/scraping, the rear spring shackles _seem_ to be
o.k. but you never know what could be hiding up there.

They guy doing the work will make a jig to fit the old cross member (ala
the Porter Restoration Guide) and clamp it onto the frame, then weld on
the new bits to fit the jig.  This guy _really_ knows his stuff.  He has
worked on everything from Ford Model A's to BMW Coupes.

I do plan to get my own welding gear, but I don't think that my first
experiments should be quite so structurally important!  ;-)

Paul Quin
1961 Series II
Victoria, BC  Canada

>-----Original Message-----
>From:	dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org [SMTP:dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org]
>Sent:	Wednesday, February 04, 1998 10:33 AM
>To:	lro@playground.sun.com
>Subject:	Re[2]: Replaceing Rear Crossmember

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 39 lines)]
>time.
>DaveB

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Feb 1998 13:21:01 -0600
From: "\"Mr. Mike\" Passaretti" <passaretti@sol.med.ge.com>
Subject: Re: Series IIa Gearbox X-member

>>>>> "Huub" == Huub Pennings <HPS@fs1-kfih.azr.nl> writes:

    Huub> Bolt-on X-members are available and were for
    Huub> military '88's they can be ordered but you would
    Huub> have to make attachment points for these as well.

Did the mil-spec 109"s have any chassis differences like this?
(I'm woefully ignorant of the differences between civilian 
 and MOD vehicles, but curious.  )
							-MM

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Feb 1998 14:28:15 -0800
From: Dave Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Rear PTO

Does anyone have an accessory manual they want to sell cheap or can
someone make a Xerox copy of the information on the rear PTO especially
the blow up of the parts for me.  I received the unit on the weekend
with all new parts like seals and bearings--but not assembled--It looks
great, but now I want to make sure I put everything back together the
way God and Land Rover meant.
Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Feb 1998 15:35:49 -0500
From: Dan & Sally Cantwell <dcantwel@cgo.wave.ca>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

> >etc.) and it was held down with long strips of double sided sticky tape,
> >which I'm now trying to get off. So far, I've tried a bottle called "GooGone"
> >or "GoopGone" and Bug'N'Tar Remover, both of which turn the lines into a
> >jelly which then smears everywhere... This stuff is hard to get off. Any
> >ideas on lifting this tape goop?

Acetone or varsol; I've always found that if one won't work that the other will, and of course use only in a well ventilated
area, don't smoke yada...yada...yada...
   Hope this helps
                         Dan '61 SII 88 HT

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Feb 1998 16:24:55 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: 109 diesel 1 ton?

I don't think that It is around here. Mike Williams?? was the guy who
got hold of it and he moved to Ontario taking it with him. The vehicle
had no body on it  just the fire wall and seatbox etc but it did have
doors.
It was stored inside at the autoport so everything was in reasonably
good shape.
   I'm not sure which one you are refering to.
   see ya John

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Feb 1998 16:29:03 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: headlight location/year

69 was the year that the "frog eye" was made and it was in reponse to
changing regulations in Australia and a rumour that the US was about to
change its lighting regs. too.
   John

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Feb 1998 16:46:57 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Series IIa Gearbox X-member

Yes they did. The attachment points are very simple if a little hard to
explain. If you imagine the Xmember as a piece of Square tube then
imagine that it was placed across below the frame so that there was
about 
1/2 inch of frame visible at each end and at each end a U shape was put 
 round the end of the tube with the arms on each side of the tube.The
the U pieces are welded in place. Two 3/8 bolts go through the U and
tube at each end to hold it up. 
  Confused? If there is enough interest I can take a picture to Email.

   John

------------------------------

From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Subject: Re: 109 Diesel Question
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 1998 11:12:58 -0800

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 9:18:33 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: 109 Diesel Question

>If it's a gen-yoo-ine 1 ton, run, do not walk to your nearest checkbook

and start scribbling. These are rare and desireable vehicles. If you are

scared of the diesel because you think it's slow and noisy, don't be. 
You'll find after a short while of ownership that the diesel gives less 
trouble, and gets far better fuel economy than the petrol. In addition, 
it outperforms petrol engines in demanding off-road conditions due to
its 
lack of vulnerable electrics and its low-end grunt. 
The one-ton incorporates heavier-dutier suspension and axles, driveline 
and chassis. These were not produced in great numbers. If this one is 
complete and a runner, I'd say BUY. 

The only part of this post I would question is the part about the 2.25
diesel giving less trouble than the 2.25 petrol engine.  While this may
be true in day-to-day operations, everyone I know who has had a fair
amount of experience with the 2.25 diesel has told me that it won't go
nearly as long as the petrol engine before needing major work, given
equal care in maintenance, driving habits, etc.  This is not true of the
current generation of Rover diesels, but the old 2.25 is not a
particularly long-lived engine.    It can be overhauled, of course, and
put back into action, but it tends to wear out sooner than the petrol
engine that was derived from it.  Most people I know who've had these
engines awhile have quoted me figures of 70K to 80K miles between major
overhauls.  I'm sure there are exceptions, however.

The diesel does have more low-end torque than the petrol engine which
can be a real benefit off-road.  However, it is even less powerful than
the petrol engine, which is nothing to write home about in its own
right.  The couple of 2.25 diesel Model 88s I've driven were noticeably
more sluggish on the road than my own 1973 petrol Series III-88, and I
would imagine the heavier 109 would be even slower.  Depending on how
you plan to use the vehicle, this may not be a problem, but if you plan
to drive it on today's roads in today's traffic, you'll spend a long
time waiting for breaks in the cars that are long enough to allow you
pull out and get up to speed, and you will be the slowest thing on the
motorway.  Driving a Series Land Rover in traffic these days, regardless
of engine type, requires good anticipation and judgment, as acceleration
rates and driving speeds have gone up a lot since the Series were made.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Feb 1998 17:01:28 -0500
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: 1 Tonne

Mark re your 1 tonne query.
I am surprised that it is a diesel 1 tonne. I thought the 1 tonne versions
were fitted with the 2.6 gas engine. However 1 tonne means that it had a
upgraded chassis and suspension, with the higher lift ( simil;ar to the HD
military chassis ) 6.5 inch wheels with 9.00 x 16 tyres and a lower ratio
all helical transfer box. heavy duty axles.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Feb 1998 17:25:49 -0500 (EST)
From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Subject: Re: Replaceing Rear Crossmember

>A question for anyone who has replaced their rear cross-member.
Been there, done that.
>I am trying to budget in having my new rear cross-member (with
>extensions) welded in.  I will remove the bodywork myself
Easy to do

.  I would like
>to know approximately how many hours work is involved in cutting off the
>rusty remains of the old cross-member
Once the springs are loose in the back, 15min with a sawzall and it is gone.
Welding should be no more than 2 hours.

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
Pittsburgh, Pa.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Feb 1998 20:05:40 -0600
From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Subject: A Question of position

Hi All,
 I have been thinking about the NADA & standard frames.  I understand
that the main differance is that the transmission mounts.  Hence this
question instead of moving the frame xmember could the trans mount be
extended rearward to support the transmission without moving the
xmember?  If this would work then the NADA  LR's would be easy to
reframe without modifing the new frame.   Suggestions?  
  
Regards,
 Rob Davis_Chicago

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Feb 1998 22:06:21 -0500 (EST)
From: Hank Rutherford <ruthrfrd@borg.com>
Subject: Re:Shifting

On  Tue, 03 Feb 1998 13:16:05 -0500 (EST),  Matt Abercrombie wrote:  <<Does
anyone know what would cause the inability to shift into first or
second gear when at a stop>>

Matt,
   Either 1. Your clutch is badly worn or the hydraulics are not up to par,
resulting on a clutch not fully releasing when the pedal is depressed, or 2.
The oil in the gearbox is too stiff. If the oil is too stiff when cold, the
gears on the mainshaft all spin together as one and the non-synchro gears
are difficult to engage. Selecting a synchro gear first (3rd) fools them
long enough to allow gear selection. If the problem goes away when things
warm up, this might be your problem. Either move to a warmer climate, use
thinner gear oil.
    If this isn't the problem, a worn clutch may be. As a clutch wears, the
diaphragm on the pressure plate requires a longer travel to release the
driven plate. Dodgy hydraulics can make the problem worse. 
    This is one of the few malfunctions that can't be blamed on Lucas, at
least not directly.  
                       Regards, Rutherfrd@borg.com 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 00:33:46 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Subject: Re:Shifting

On Wed, 4 Feb 1998, Hank Rutherford wrote:

 On  Tue, 03 Feb 1998 13:16:05 -0500 (EST),  Matt Abercrombie wrote:  <<Does
 anyone know what would cause the inability to shift into first or
 second gear when at a stop>>

>    Either 1. Your clutch is badly worn or the hydraulics are not up to par,
> resulting on a clutch not fully releasing when the pedal is depressed, or 2.

there is a third possiblity.  the linkage from the slave cylinder to the
clutch may be worn or misadjusted.  Check that the pushrod is adjusted the
way the shop manual says, and that various holes that things rotate in are
round.  Note that there is a pretty serious mechanical advantage at the
clutch pedal, so a tiny lose of travel at the clutch can eat up a lot
pedal movement.  If things are not round, you can either replace parts, or
weld or braze up the holes and redrill them.  Again, dodgy hyraulics would
make this worses.

David/Mr.  Sinclair.

------------------------------

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