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From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Subject: Puctuation
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 23:40:31 +1100

Uncle Roger wrote:

>after a period, but getting rid of all spaces after punctiation seems a bit
>harsh.  Is this a UK thing?  8^)

Mike Rooth replied:
>No,its a me thing.I dont leave a gap when I'm writing a letter,why
>should I do so just because I'm using a crappy heap of glass
>and plastic:-)

To which I respond - 'cos it's bloody hard to read!

Re Uncle Roger's query.  I've always used 2 spaces after a full stop
(period) and one space after a comma.  A recent style manual I was reading
(US book) said that the 2 space idea has gone and we should only use one
space.  I find it hard to break the habit of a lifetime.  One thing I've
noticed over the years is the number of people who put the space BEFORE the
comma.

I'm running Internet Explorer 4 and MS Outlook Express.  It strips off blank
lines and close the text up and I don't know how to stop it.  So I put a
space on any line I want to be blank.

Regards
Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, NSW, Australia

'86 Range Rover 4.6L auto (The Last Aquila)
'71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660 1725cc manual
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc auto
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc manual

Editor, Hillman Owners Club of Australia Newsletter
check my home page at http://www.users.bigpond.com/hillman
for Hillman and Rover

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 14:46:10 +0200
From: wrm@ccii.co.za (Wouter de Waal)
Subject: Re: Electric fuel pump

>I need to know how to wire this thing
>through a oil pressure relief valve or some other thing so that if I am using
>the electric pump and I am involved in a accident the pump will stop

This is normally more of a concern for fuel injected cars, where the pump
can pump quite a lot of fuel in a short time. Get the relay from a Golf,
oops Rabbit GTI. In the more modern electronically injected cars the pump is
controlled by the fool rejection computer, but the old mechanical injected
cars have a relay.

The relay switches on briefly when you apply power to it (to pressurise the
system on ignition on) and then switches on while it gets pulses from the
coil, i.e. while the engine is actually running.

Wouter

------------------------------

From: "Steve & Leona Campbell" <campbell@ZETA.ORG.au>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 23:54:56 +1100

>From: Mike MacDonald <mmacdonald@laserdirect.com>
>Subject: Series I - 2.0L Engine Woes
>Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 17:01:17 -0800
>Any of you Series I fans out there.....help!
>I've got a '57 SI 88" with a 2Liter engine that I thought (hoped) I was
>nearing the end of the "working on it still" stage and moving into the
>"playing with it now" stage.  Unfortunately, I have a bad feeling I'm
>not.
Mike, give the bloody thing to your mechanic quickly! It is a puzzle to me
as well, The only reasonable answer I can see is that there was some small
amount of water in or near the dipstick, had you recently rebuilt the
head/water pump/radiator? and was it possible that some moisture had
contaminated that area? That might explain the milky stuff. This doesn't
explain the oil pressure drop. But then again, if you had just been working
on the motor in a major way, is it possible that some electrical gremlin
caused the incorrect reading and the milky oil was a coincidence? I know
that after major job I'm always extra concerned about every little
inconsistency, often without foundation! and am prone to put 2 and 2
together when there is no need. If it were mine I'd either try the
experiment again and rip the head etc off straight away for a look. Or,
more sensibly, give it to the mechanic to sort out. After all those 2 litre
motors are getting rarer every day! Sorry I cant be more helpful. Good
Luck.
.......................................................................
          ___                         __                                  
      __| |_| \__               __/  S1       Steve Campbell     
     [_/~\__/~\_};         _/   1950   campbell@zeta.org.au
 ____(o)__(o)_______/  80 inch         ICQ# 5036527      
.......................................................................

------------------------------

From: "Alan Logue" <logue@a011.aone.net.au>
Subject: Visit to the US
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 23:35:54 +1030

Hi y'all
My brother-in-law has just been given a trip to the Us to visit a large
photographic trade show in New Orleans in Feb.
>From memory, the PMA show is on around Feb 14 and goes for 3 or 4 days.
Simon is a mad Land Rover owner, like me, and I was wondering if there is
anyone on the list in the New Orleans area that he may be able to catch up
with if time permits?
His Landy is a Stage 1 V8, and he will talk Land Rovers for ages.
Please E Mail me privately and I'll pass on the details, as he is not on E
mail.
Thanks in advance
Alan
Logue & Associates
PO Box 689
Morphett Vale
South Australia
Ph +61-8-83228965
Fax +61-8-83875535

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 09:19:45 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Mainshaft Nut Tool Info on Web Site

SFmms wrote:
> The information on the mainshaft nut tool including the picture can now be
> found at http://www.landrover.net/parts/transtool/, courtesy of Michael
> Carradine.
> Karen Sindir
> '74 SIII 88
> '95 Disco

I'm having trouble reaching this site, anyone else, or is it just my 
'puter? I can get as far as the link for "1/2 inch" and "hex nut", but 
that's it :-(

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 98 08:18:26 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Salisbury conversion in S3 88

Greetings all,

I forgot to mention some points in my original post on this topic:

>1.  I will replace the stock 2.25 petrol with either an American V6 (4.0L)
>or a V8 and a matching transmission 
snip
>2.  Next comes a Detroit Locker for the Salisbury. As for the front I'll fit
>Rover 3.54s along with a Detroit True-Trac. Maybe I can locate stronger
>halfshafts for the front, but I'll probably wait till it breaks!
snip>>(and now the kicker)<<
>All that's left now is to find a worthy off-road site and have fun! Graham

why don't you get some off-roading under your belt before you go doing all 
this...
you might be pleasantly surprised at what your Rover can do.

later
DaveB.

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 98 08:21:44 EST
Subject: Re[2]: 101 production (was US 25 year import rule)

> I am sorry to have to bring this up but the 101's are or seem to be
>from EX-MOD stocks which can never be imported for that reason.

WHAT!?!?!
there are LOTS of ex-MOD trucks in the US. 25 years or older. I have never 
heard of such a restriction.

DaveB

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 10:08:29 EST
Subject: Re:  Re: Electric fuel pump

In a message dated 1/28/98 10:42:27 PM, you wrote:

>A lot of newer American cars have an inertia  switch on the fuel pumps. I've
heard
>of people being bumped  and thier car won't restart until the switch is
reset.
>Marbe you can find one at NAPA .

My 110 (petrol, V8) has one just in front of the main gearshift, in the area
of the fuses. It has a little button which pops up, or can be manually raised
to disable the fuel pump.

I think in RRs the switch is somewhere under a front seat. I remember a thread
in which someone's switch was tripped while parked in the woods, and the
engine wouldn't start.

Maybe one can be sourced fairly cheaply.

pat
93  110

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 09:31:08 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Subject: Re: Mainshaft Nut Tool Info on Web Site

At 09:19 AM 1/29/98 -0800, Con P. Seitl wrote:
:SFmms wrote:
:> The information on the mainshaft nut tool including the picture can now be
:> found at http://www.landrover.net/parts/transtool/
:
:I'm having trouble reaching this site, anyone else, or is it just my 
:'puter? I can get as far as the link for "1/2 inch" and "hex nut", but 
:that's it :-(

 Hmmm...  thanks for the report!  I hope others have a better
 response, if not, maybe the server and connections are bad =:(

-Michael
  

------------------------------

From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 13:59:10 -0500 (EST)
Subject: OVLR Dork Tari Award

Alan_Richer writes: "Fah - these Kalifornians have no concept of overdone
bad taste....New Englanders do - we just usually don't indulge ourselves.
I have an 88 I'm working on for my daughter."

It is to be painted, he continues: "BARBIE CORVETTE PINK"

Those of us in the middle of the country (once we have recovered from the
shock) are eagerly watching to see if the east coast upstart can compete
with the reigning champions of bad taste in California.

Pictures for all of us to view (and judge) will, no doubt, be posted at
some website like www.badtasterovercompetition.com.  The prize for the
winner of this competition should be a tasteful velvet painting of Elvis.

God I love these technical discussions!

Paul Donohue
1965 ratty green 109
Denver

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 11:35:31 -0500
Subject: Re: OVLR Dork Tari Award

Re: Meddling Midwesterners:

Sorry - the Californian is the upstart - I am reigning champion.....<grin>

I was just going to rest on my.....laurels, but no, this young punslinger's
got to come into town and make trouble.....

          aj"I will defend my title.....8*)"r

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 14:28:10 -0500
From: Matt Nelson <nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu>
Subject: delco altenator

I've physically installed my delco altenator and am almost done with my
basic frame up, however I cant seem to figure out how to wire it in
where the old s2a's generator was, I underatand where the lead that goes
to the charge light goes and which it is but where do the two other
wires from the delco go to? the heavier one and the other one from the
plug? everyone keeps telling me different places and I'm confused could
someone out there settle this for me??

thanks

Matt Nelson

------------------------------

From: "Huub Pennings" <HPS@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 20:36:48 +0100
Subject:       Re:another '88 

I did it again, 
                I bought my third Land Rover in 6 weeks today
at an army surplus auction in Belgium. It came real cheap (aprox 1000 
Us$) and is a '88 petrol 4x2 of 1975. Sound firewall and frame so she 
should be a perfect donor vehicle for my dear Rusty. The '88 army I 
bought in between was just to good to tear apart .... 

It's pure logic, right... How do I tell my wife?

Anyone out there with a good SIII gearbox and or front axel?? 
Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 12:56:00 -0500
Subject: Re: delco altenator

Re: Which wire goes where:

Simple.

The heavy lead goes to the back of the ammeter - the heavier of the 2 wires
from the dynamo leads can be used for this, or (much better) run a new lead
as the old one was barely adequate for 20 amps...

The other lead needs to go to switched +12 at the fuse block - it's voltage
sense and basically tells the alternator how much to charge and when. Some
recommend looping it right to +12 at the alternator but I don't - the
regulator can't really sense the current needs properly that way.

Don't forget to jumper the small lead from the alternator (used to be the
field lead) to thecharge light on the panel, and jumper the B/B1 together
when you pull the regulator.

     aj"Email if you need mre"r

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 16:27:17 -0500
From: Garret Scott <scottgs@usit.net>
Subject: Re: delco altenator

Matt,

I've done several Delco installs on Rovers.  First of all, which Delco
do you have?  Internal or External Regulator?

Have you converted the SIIA from Positive to Negative ground already?

It is easy to connect either one.   Regardless, the large screw
connection is the connection to the battery, the heavy wire. 

If you have a high output Delco Altenator, say over 55 amps, you really
should replace this heavy wire with an even heavier one.  The original
SIIA generator wiring was only designed for 30 amps or so.  This can
lead to hot wiring, which you definatly don't want. 

If you have an internally regulated Delco, this is all you really have
to connect to make it work.

Also beware, as some Delco's also have a ground connection which looks
identical to the battery connection, it is on the opposite side of the
alternator.

By the way, the Delco is an excellent altenator, and an easy conversion
for the Rover.  Let me know if you need any further help,

Garret Scott
Knoxville, TN

 

> I've physically installed my delco altenator and am almost done with my
> basic frame up, however I cant seem to figure out how to wire it in
> where the old s2a's generator was, I underatand where the lead that goes
> to the charge light goes and which it is but where do the two other
> wires from the delco go to? the heavier one and the other one from the
> plug? everyone keeps telling me different places and I'm confused could
> someone out there settle this for me??
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> thanks
> Matt Nelson

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 15:39:11 -0800
From: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Subject: Re: delco altenator

Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com wrote:
> Re: Which wire goes where:
> Simple.
> The heavy lead goes to the back of the ammeter - the heavier of the 2 wires
> from the dynamo leads can be used for this, or (much better) run a new lead
> as the old one was barely adequate for 20 amps...

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)]
> when you pull the regulator.
>      aj"Email if you need mre"r
Mostly true, but I remember when I did this to my '60 109 in 1973 I had
to add a resistor to the ammeter otherwise it would peg/burn. At least
that was the recommendation then. Still have the LR...still charging.
Cheers   Peter	
4 sundry LR's and a pile of LBC's
-- 

http://www.mailbag.com/users/nosimport/

------------------------------

Date: 29 Jan 1998 16:34:55 -0400
From: "LT J Jackson" <lt_j_jackson@unixlink.uscga.edu>
Subject: Electrical Question

I just finished building an overhead console for my as-yet-unbought stereo and
CB. The idea was stolen with pride from Al Richer's 109 pickup.  The console
looks great - I covered it with black textured vinyl - hey, it's an SIII,
gotta go with the theme ; ' ) and it's plenty strong.  Even has room for
downward-facing 6x9 speakers.   I'll provide measurements and a materials list
if anyone's interested.  The whole deal cost about twenty USD, and required a
jig saw, router and drill.
 
Getting power and a ground wire up there is simple enough, but I'd like to do
it right and mount a fuse box in the console, rather than tying yet another
gadget into the 4-fuse factory box.  Any advice on where to buy a decent
aftermarket auto fuse box?  Radio Shack?  NAPA?  I'm like a chicken staring at
a card trick when it comes to understanding electricals (and I've got the
burnt wiring to prove it), so if it sounds like I'm screwing something up, let
me know.  

BTW:  Does anybody heading to the Maine Winter Romp have advice on where to
stay, where to drink, and where to eat (not listed in order of importance).  

Jeff Jackson
73 SIII 88 Luxury Edition 

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: delco altenator
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 13:39:19 -0800

I found a nice page on wiring a Delco alternator complete with picture!

http://www.skyia.com/~thartin/alt.htm

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88 - also with a Delco Remi alternator
Victoria, BC  Canada

>-----Original Message-----
>From:	Matt Nelson [SMTP:nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu]
>Sent:	Thursday, January 29, 1998 11:28 AM
>To:	lro@playground.sun.com
>Subject:	delco altenator

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)]
>thanks
>Matt Nelson

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 16:46:17 -0500
From: Garret Scott <scottgs@usit.net>
Subject: Re: delco altenator

> Mostly true, but I remember when I did this to my '60 109 in 1973 I had
> to add a resistor to the ammeter otherwise it would peg/burn. At least
> that was the recommendation then. Still have the LR...still charging.

If the ammeter isn't rated to handle the current of the altenator, then
you better not use it. And most sII ammeters aren't going to handle the
current of most modern Delco alternators, unless it is a military
Rover.   

The ammeter should be replaced with one that is rated for the job.
Otherwise, you just have a new weak link in your Rover's electrical
system.  Just what we all want.

Garret Scott
Knoxville, TN

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: Electrical Question
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 13:55:15 -0800

Radio Shack sells an in-line fuse holder that would be fine for
protecting stereo equipment.  A 10 Amp fuse should be enough unless
you're installing a BIG power amp for the stereo.  I think that CB's
draw less than 5 amps when transmitting... Anyone?

Paul Q

>-----Original Message-----
>From:	LT J Jackson [SMTP:lt_j_jackson@unixlink.uscga.edu]
>Sent:	Thursday, January 29, 1998 12:35 PM
>To:	lro@playground.sun.com
>Subject:	Electrical Question

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 36 lines)]
>Jeff Jackson
>73 SIII 88 Luxury Edition 

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 98 17:02:23 EST
Subject: Re: Electrical Question

> Any advice on where to buy a decent
>aftermarket auto fuse box? 

the ones I've seen are pretty cheesy.
I got an extra LUCAS 4-fuse box at a car show (carlisle import). It's got the 
snap cover like the one on the SIII. I will mount it under the hood (I guess) 
and run a 8-10gauge wire from either the existing fuse box or the ignition 
switch, or from the same post on the starter solenoid that the original box 
connects to. (essentially the battery).

I have a coupla used volvo 122 fuse boxes that are quite nice, but I'm not sure 
if they take the same kind of fuse. The fuses that are in em look kinda weird, 
like little white pills. Anybody seen those?
I'd be happy to send you one for a few bucks if someone can clear up this 
question for us.

later
DaveB

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 16:37:07 -0800
From: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Subject: Re: delco altenator

Paul Quin wrote:
> I found a nice page on wiring a Delco alternator complete with picture!
> http://www.skyia.com/~thartin/alt.htm
> Paul Quin
> 1961 Series II 88 - also with a Delco Remi alternator
> Victoria, BC  Canada

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
> >thanks
> >Matt Nelson
Oooooooh,
	Now I want a Derby car!  cool site   Cheers Peter
-- 

http://www.mailbag.com/users/nosimport/

------------------------------

From: B4UTRY@aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 17:36:59 EST
Subject: Re: Hello, is there anybody out there?

yes

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 16:56:43 -0800
From: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Subject: Re: delco altenator

Garret Scott wrote:
> > Mostly true, but I remember when I did this to my '60 109 in 1973 I had
> > to add a resistor to the ammeter otherwise it would peg/burn. At least
> > that was the recommendation then. Still have the LR...still charging.
> If the ammeter isn't rated to handle the current of the altenator, then
> you better not use it. And most sII ammeters aren't going to handle the
> current of most modern Delco alternators, unless it is a military

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
> Garret Scott
> Knoxville, TN
Yeah, but the original ammeter in the cluster guage is so cute I wanted
to keep it. The vaues don't matter just the + - bit.  
Peter   Madison WI
-- 

http://www.mailbag.com/users/nosimport/

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 15:06:24 -0500
Subject: Re: delco altenator

Re: Ammeter resistor:

Nice thought, but the internals of that ammeter are nothing to worry about.
It's more of a galvanometer than it is anything else, as its entire
internal construction is one loop of AWG12 bare wire, and an iron-vane
pointer. That's it.

After seeing its innards (I took mine apart to be cautious - as you have
with the resistor) I stopped worrying. Pegging it isn't hurting a thing -
there's no coil, and it's not like a more-standard D'Arsonval milliammeter
movement - pegging it can't burn it out.

In the end, I finally got tired of watching its antics and modified it to a
90-amp meter. Someday I'll write it up, but suffice to say for the moment
that the modification is not for the faint of heart, or those without
microsurgical electronics tools.

               Alan

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 17:05:33 -0800
From: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Subject: Re: Electrical Question

> I have a coupla used volvo 122 fuse boxes that are quite nice, but I'm not sure
> if they take the same kind of fuse. The fuses that are in em look kinda weird,
> like little white pills. Anybody seen those?
> I'd be happy to send you one for a few bucks if someone can clear up this
> question for us.
> later
> DaveB

Volvos, VW MB BMW, etc. used a ceramic fuse. Color of ceramic = amps
white 8A red 16A blue 25A. Except Fiat where black = 8A. Anyway, unless
you want to carry 2 kinds of fuses around with you don't put it in a
Brit car. universal fuse boxes are cheap.   Cheers   Peter 
-- 

http://www.mailbag.com/users/nosimport/

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 15:12:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Electrical Question

Thief. That's it - you're buying the beer at the Romp. 8*)

Seriously, glad you liked the design.

As far as a fuse box/block goes, the best I've seen were at marine supply
places. Good quality, and not-too-outrageous prices.

If you want something that's going to be in an essentially protected area,
I might suggest the 4-fuse block that Rat Shack carries. it's a decent
enough bit, but won't take weather.

With your contacts you might want to hit the base electronics shop and see
if they've an old panel-mount fuseholder or three lying about. The quality
you'll find wil be light-years over anything you want to pay for......

If you do the top-end fuseholder, you might want to drop a 30-amp inline in
the main going topside, right as it leaves the harness. This way, if the
wire gets pinched or cut (always a possibility), it will blow the big
fuse.Other than that, the smaller ones up above will go and give you at
least some of your gadgets.

               Alan

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 17:11:25 -0800
From: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Subject: Re: delco altenator

Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com wrote:
> Re: Ammeter resistor:
> Nice thought, but the internals of that ammeter are nothing to worry about.
> It's more of a galvanometer than it is anything else, as its entire
> internal construction is one loop of AWG12 bare wire, and an iron-vane
> pointer. That's it.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)]
> microsurgical electronics tools.
>                Alan
Drat, I really agonized over it then. That was when I was young and
didn't know anything....now I'm older  
I would like to know what you did someday. No rush at all. Got other
pans in the fire right now.   Cheers Peter
-- 

http://www.mailbag.com/users/nosimport/

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 15:20:09 -0500
Subject: Re:Volvo Fuse Boxes

To put it bluntly, those arenot the best design for anything under
vibration...

Even Lucas knew better than to use that design.

Sorry, Dave, but you know I calls 'em as I sees 'em... 8*)

Seriously, though, the fuseholders were tension types - the pointed ends on
the fuses wedged in between the contacts and thus generated sufficient
contact to operate.

Problem was, the contact area is insufficient for any more than 8-10 amps
or so, and in daily use they used to oxidize and lose contact.

I got so sick of the one on my 164 that I ripped it out and replaced it
with a 12-fuse Littelfuse block made for industrial use. never had a lick
of trouble after that.

Use them if you will, but I'd go hunting the commercial surplus shops for
bakelite Buss or Littelfuse blocks meself.

               aj"Fuses R Us!"r

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 19:57:05 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Hello, is there anybody out there?

B4UTRY@aol.com wrote:
> yes

Aaaahhhh......Pink Floyd......memories.....

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 18:59:56 EST
Subject: Re:  Re: Electrical Question

In a message dated 1/29/98 6:38:48 PM, you wrote:

>I have a coupla used volvo 122 fuse boxes that are quite nice, but I'm not
sure
>if they take the same kind of fuse. The fuses that are in em look kinda

weird,
>like little white pills. Anybody seen those?

I've seen two variations on this "little white pills" fusebox. One had little
white fuses, with copper caps on either end, Every German car I've owned
(except for my current 94 Audi) had those fuses. The fuses were white, pink
green & blue for different amperages.

The second version I saw was of British origin and the fuses looked like glass
fuses, except that instead of glass surrounding a wire, it was a ceramic-ish
white center, and they were *tiny*. They were little white cylinders with
chrome ends and all of them were low amp. less than 5A.

pat
93  110

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 17:00:25 -0700
From: Jamie E Luke <emu@mssl.uswest.net>
Subject: Holy Alternator Questions 

I've got a few questions, mostly spurred on by the recent delco alternator postings...  
I have what appears to be a reconditioned alt. on my 65 sIIA with an external regulator. 
Does anyone know the output of the LR alt. units? relative to the delco units?  My 
lights don't flicker or anything but I do have a winch and I'm a wee bit worried about 
current draw problem.

Todd Ondick
tadpole@mssl.uswest.net
'65 IIA SWB

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 17:06:55 -0700
From: Todd Ondick <tadpole@mssl.uswest.net>
Subject: Selectro hubs

I'm going to be tearing into to front end of my '65 IIA and well, does 
anyone have any tips on how to get past a set of selectro hubs?  They 
look simple enough (relative to other makes of hub I've dismantled) but 
I haven't been able to locate any schematics or gasket kits for these 
buggers.  Any hints, tips, techniques, words of wisdom, advice, or 
warnings would be greatly appreciated.

Todd Ondick
tadpole@mssl.uswest.net
'65 IIA SWB

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 18:15:36 -0600
From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Subject: Re: 101 production (was US 25 year import rule)

Hi DaveB,
 Well when I talked to customs in Washington they told me that nothing
which was EX-MOD could be imported no matter what year it was.  They
were very very clear about it as well.    FYI

Regards,
 Rod Davis_Chicago

------------------------------

From: RykRover@aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 19:25:58 EST
Subject: Trakkers??????????

I am looking for 2 forward facing fold up rear seats for a soft top NAS D-90 ,
preferably in the grey vinyl that is used for the front seats (as the top is
never on in the summer). I tried to call the number listed in the LROI however
,  I couldn`t get through.  What kind of quality does this company deal in ?
And how are they to deal with ?  

Thanks in Advance, 
Rick

------------------------------

From: IBEdwardp@aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 19:25:32 EST
Subject: Re: Electrical Question

In a message dated 98-01-29 17:22:00 EST, you write:

<< Any advice on where to buy a decent
 aftermarket auto fuse box?  Radio Shack?  NAPA? >>
I found a really roveresque fuse block (old type) in a marine hardware store.
Boats and LR's have a lot in common.  You might try one of the marine
outfitters on the WEB.  West Marine is one of many.  Just a thought.

Ed Bailey
66 S2 88
Somewhere in East Tennessee

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 20:51:44 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Electrical Question

LT J Jackson wrote:
> I just finished building an overhead console for my as-yet-unbought stereo and
> CB. The idea was stolen with pride from Al Richer's 109 pickup.  The console
> looks great - I covered it with black textured vinyl - hey, it's an SIII,
> gotta go with the theme ; ' ) and it's plenty strong.  Even has room for
> downward-facing 6x9 speakers.   I'll provide measurements and a materials list
> if anyone's interested.  The whole deal cost about twenty USD, and required a
> jig saw, router and drill.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 23 lines)]
> Jeff Jackson
> 73 SIII 88 Luxury Edition
There are Motels and B&Bs in the area.   Eating etc is part of the
program. for More details call Bruce at 207 453 5074, he's a bit elusive
so keep trying.
     John

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 20:05:34 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: 101 production (was US 25 year import rule)

car4doc wrote:

>  Well when I talked to customs in Washington they told me that nothing
> which was EX-MOD could be imported no matter what year it was.  They
> were very very clear about it as well.

I looked at the ATF web site yesterday, and found a copy of the law
governing import and export of military items (the title of the law says
export only, but it covers import also, and ATF covers import only). It
listed all kinds of restricted items, some obvious like nuclear weapons
and destroyers, and others not so obvious. One class of items was
military vehicles, and a quick look suggested a vehicle without gun
mounts, etc., non-amphibious and unarmoured was not included in the
restricted list. However, permission can be granted by ATF for many
classes of restricted items, and an importer's license cost around
$250/yr. Certain types of firearms and other weapons, goods furnished to
foreign governments under military aid programs, and some other classes
have blanket prohibitions. Also military goods from certain countries
have blanket prohibitions, but the UK was not one of the countries.
There were also several open letters to importers posted about changes
to various regulations and how ATF was working to assist importers. One
even announced that ATF now had an office dedicated to assisting
importers of military goods.

My experience with calling US Customs and asking about regulations is
that the person answering the phone will probably give you whatever
answer comes to mind, but most likely be conservative and say no if in
any doubt. You need to find someone who actually has the regulations in
front of them, and then you may have to ask questions about specific
sections to get them to read the regulations.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 20:05:56 -0500
From: Garret Scott <scottgs@usit.net>
Subject: Re: delco altenator

-> 
-> Nice thought, but the internals of that ammeter are nothing to worry
-about.
-> It's more of a galvanometer than it is anything else, as its entire
-> internal construction is one loop of AWG12 bare wire, and an
iron-vane
-> pointer. That's it.

I'll agree that the original ammeter is not likely to burst into flames
when you first crank your Rover with a new Delco Alternator.  I too ran
my SIIA with the stock ammeter and and a 65 Amp Delco for a year or so.
Eventually though, the ammeter did get stuck at max charge reading.

My point however, is that whether the ammeter burst into flames or not,
is that it is not designed to handle the heavier current of most
alternators.  The last time I looked, a 12 gauge wire is hardly
acceptable to handle 65+ amps. Let's see, this is overstressing it by
what,  200%, 300% ?

Perhaps my design criteria is different from other Rover owners.  I want
my vehicle to be reliable. I want any changes or enhancements I make to
be designed properly.  In the arena of electrical systems especially, I
want my Rover to be at least equal to how it was originally designed, if
not stronger.  God knows, the Prince of Darkness has an easy enough time
like it is.   But then on the other hand, some times you can go a long
way on a shoestring and a prayer.

Garret Scott
Knoxville, TN (With 24 to 32 inches of snow in the Gatlinburg area)

 

> After seeing its innards (I took mine apart to be cautious - as you have
> with the resistor) I stopped worrying. Pegging it isn't hurting a thing -
> there's no coil, and it's not like a more-standard D'Arsonval milliammeter
> movement - pegging it can't burn it out.
> In the end, I finally got tired of watching its antics and modified it to a
> 90-amp meter. Someday I'll write it up, but suffice to say for the moment
> that the modification is not for the faint of heart, or those without
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> microsurgical electronics tools.
>                Alan

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 21:26:17 -1000
From: kiotee@mcn.net (Roy Caldwell)
Subject: Re: Selectro hubs

>Todd,  Get hold of Mile Marker.  They bought the co and still offer a
Selectro hub name hub.  They still make in 24 spline hubs the cap seleter
like the old Fairey.  Only it is for the big 2 and 4 ton american iron.

Roy

------------------------------

From: "The Stockdales" <mstockdale@pop3.mho.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 20:06:00 +0000
Subject: Re Electric Fuel Pump

Regarding the kill switch for th Electric Fuel pump.  Definately go 
with the Oil pressure switch.  A good Parts man will know what stitch 
to use, and tee off of the original rover OP switch.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 21:47:21 -0800
From: Dave Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Fuel pump inertia pump

Take a look in the passenger wheel well area on any North American car
and you will find a
fuel pump inertia switch to turn back on the fuel pump after a hard hit
to the vehicle.  Trace the lead to the inertia switch and you have what
you need to kill the pump when in an accident.  The Austin Marina had
the simplest one I ever saw.  It is a ball bearing that sits across two
contacts when the pump is in normal working situation.  A hard bump
dislodges the metal bearing and the pump stops.  You have to reset it to
restart the pump.  A mercury swithch that is set to throw the mercury
forward in a crash and short out a fuse would do the same thing or a
pendulem, the type in a normal seat belt switch to hold the seat belt
tight in a crash might also work.
There seems to have been some interest generated in seeing my Land Rover
with the Ham Radio set ups for emergency use.  I will forward the
pictures to Uncle Roger if he is still interested in scanning them for
me and you can see what the pop up air mast looks like in action and the
other things we have done for field work.  Roger, can you send me your
snail mail address and I will forward a pack of pictures and you can
scan any you think would be of interest.
Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 22:05:51 -0800
From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Subject: Re: Series III list to starboard

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 98 15:35:59 EST
Subject: Re: Series III list to starboard

>>Since everything else on the vehicle is functioning fine and it handles
>>well, should I just not worry about it?  Thanks to those of you who can
>>offer me the benefit of their experience.

>have you learned nothing in 25 years of rover owenrship? Ignore it and it
>wont go away, but you will get used to it. Give it some time and the other
>spring will begin to sag. In ten or fifteen years, you can replace them all
>again.
>Trying to fix this now will surely open a much larger can o' worms.

As the springs are in fine shape as well as the bushings and other
hardware, I'd pretty much come to this conclusion myself.  As I said, maybe
the vehicle has always leaned a bit and I've just never noticed it.
Actually, I've found in 25 years of Land Rover ownership that ignoring
things sometimes does, in fact, make them go away.  Or at least become
different.

________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 08:32:17 +0000
Subject: Re: OVLR Dork Tari Award

:-)

And there I was thinking the British Army was the first to paint their
Landies pink!

I'm sure this "Eastern Pink" is *much* more garish! :-)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com on 01/29/98 04:35:31 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Re: OVLR Dork Tari Award

Re: Meddling Midwesterners:
Sorry - the Californian is the upstart - I am reigning champion.....<grin>
I was just going to rest on my.....laurels, but no, this young punslinger's
got to come into town and make trouble.....
          aj"I will defend my title.....8*)"r

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 08:33:58 +0000
Subject: Re:another '88

I hope someone has kept some of these 4x2s on one side - Dunsfolds or
someone like that.
I would hate to see them all used for spare parts by Mr. Pennings!  :-)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

HPS@fs1-kfih.azr.nl on 01/29/98 07:36:48 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Re:another '88

I did it again,
                I bought my third Land Rover in 6 weeks today
at an army surplus auction in Belgium. It came real cheap (aprox 1000
Us$) and is a '88 petrol 4x2 of 1975. Sound firewall and frame so she
should be a perfect donor vehicle for my dear Rusty. The '88 army I
bought in between was just to good to tear apart ....
It's pure logic, right... How do I tell my wife?
Anyone out there with a good SIII gearbox and or front axel??
Regards,
Huub Pennings
e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 10:05:29 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Towing with an 88" - My experience

>I worry that us dumb yanks might think that since everyone in the UK uses
>their 88" for towing, we could do the same here, only US-style towing, not
>UK.
Well,problem is Roger,I've come to the conclusion that you've got to let
people make their own mistakes.Just as long as they are always *new* ones.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 13:22:11 +0200 (EET)
From: Mikko Kalevi Lehmusto <mlehmust@hit.fi>
Subject: Re: wheel studs/threads

Hello.

About the necessary length of thread in screw joints:

It is true, as Dave B wrote that the first threads in a nut take a very
large proportion of the stress. In statdard metric threads the first
thread carries about 35% and the first 3 threads together about 75% of the
stress. The figures for inch-based threads are probably very similar.

The fatigue strength of the joint, however, decreases rapidly when the
length of thread in contact with the nut shortens. For steel materials the
minimum height of a nut is about 0.8*D (D=diameter of screw). A good rule
of thumb is to have the length of the internal thread about equal to the
diameter of the screw. With softer nut materials, such as aluminium the
thread should be longer, 1.25..2*D.

For example a steel nut which is 0.6*D high has only about half of the
fatigue strength of similar nut which is 0.8*D high.

Hope I didn't sound too scientific, but motor vehicles have lots of thread
joints in critical places such as steering and axles.

Regards

Mikko Lehmusto
mlehmust@hit.fi
FINLAND

------------------------------

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