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Subject: Re: SIII 88" brake overhaul
From: Ketil Kirkerud Elgethun <ketilk@a.sol.no>
Date: 28 Jan 1998 13:31:14 +0100

Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> writes:

> it be best to change all 4 pairs of shoes, and all four cylinders and
> rubber hoses?

I'd say so, yes.

> Isn't it "easiest" to dp the whole lot in one go, rather
> than a bit at a time - having to drain the lot each time?

Certainly.

> Are the hubs a problem - I have once had to had these turned to clean
> them (on the 109") - is this "normal" for such service intervals - 

I assume you mean the _drums_. Check them - if they are scored they
should be turned - but not too much. The workshop manual will tell
you the maximum i.d. of the drum.

> Or is this all too ambitious? If everything is working, just the shoes
> are worn, should I just replace the shoes and be done with it?

I would strongly consider doing the slave cylinders and at the same time
replace any hoses/tubes that are worn/corroded.

-- 
---Ketil Kirkerud Elgethun, 1979 109" SW 2.25 Petrol - "Lillebil"
   "Frihed, lighed og en lille en i kaffen"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 09:11:45 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: SIII 88" brake overhaul

Adrian If you have had the drums turned once in the past you will almost
certainly need new drums as well as all new shoes.The maximum size for
turned drums is 10thou. over and that isn't very much.
 If the seals are good and you can get the bleeder screws out you may
not need slave cylinders but since rubber deterioration is as age
related if would be a good idea to replace them if it has been a long
time since they were new.
  A tip to save future grief: use anti sieze grease on the bleed screws
and don't over tighten them. They only need about 6 lbft of torque which
you can put on a 6 inch long wrench with 1 finger.
  Pay careful attention to the placement of the springs.
  It is a good idea to replace the adjuster cams when all is apart.
  I also replace the hub oil seals and ring at the same time.
  Replacing the flex hoses is sensible as they can crack as they get
older.
           John and Muddy
 PS.Anti lock brakes are not new, I had them on my 88 years ago of
course they weren't supposed to be that way! 

> My 88" is due for its inspection test and the brakes are showing signs
> of age - I must decide whether to send her into the workshop (where they
> have the advantage of a well stocked stores, so they only have to change
> what they find) or wheether to do the job myself.
> My guess is that all 4 wheels need 2 new shoes, and maybe slave cylinder
> service/replacement.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 49 lines)]
> Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
> ---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 09:18:22 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: SIII 88" brake overhaul

john cranfield wrote:
> Adrian If you have had the drums turned once in the past you will almost
> certainly need new drums as well as all new shoes.The maximum size for
> turned drums is 10thou. over and that isn't very much.
>  If the seals are good and you can get the bleeder screws out you may
> not need slave cylinders but since rubber deterioration is as age
> related if would be a good idea to replace them if it has been a long
> time since they were new.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)]
>  PS.Anti lock brakes are not new, I had them on my 88 years ago of
> course they weren't supposed to be that way!

 Whoops make that 30 thou but it still is n't much.
      John

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 08:24:00 -0500 (EST)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Ice Storm and heaters

Hello everyone....

    I got energetic last night and decided to get rid of all the ice in the
rear tub on my 88. For those of you that didn't have the pleasure of
experiencing the storm picture this, the ice in the back was about 1 inch
from being level with the wheel boxes (Don't know if this is the proper term
for them but you know the place where the inward facing seats are mounted on
a SW). Out comes the hammer and about 1/2 hour later the ice is gone.
    Now on to the subject of heaters... Everyone has told me that the
heaters in these LR are really poor. Last night was the first time in the
really cold weather that I let the engine warm-up enough to really produce
some heat in the cab and I found it way too hot in there. I understand that
I have a pickup roof on it so there is less space to heat (which is why I
did put it on) but is there that much of a difference when you put a SW top
on? I suppose that there could be but I still think that the little furnace
in this LR would eventually heat the SW up to the same temperature. Hmmm...
I just read what I have written and I guess I'm just babbling for nothing. I
guess after playing with the 88 last night I realize how much I love the
noisey little thing :)

Keith

1961 Series II 88"
Ottawa

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 08:34:28 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: Salisbury

Dear all,
>From the rear Salisbury post... most of it got covered by the others, but...
The 3.54's and 4.70's ring and pinions in Salisburys are interchangeable,
but a spacer is required depending on what way you go. We take 3.54 units
out of D110 rear ends and install 4.70s from SIIAs, no problem.
Next is you would NOT want to go with bigger tires and 3.54s, especially
with a 2.25. The bigger the tire, you usually have to go to lower gears,
not higher. I have a 109 with 3.54's, 7.50x16 tires and a Chevy 4.0 engine.
On a moderate to normal hill, I have real problems backing up becasue the
gears are too high. It is a highway truck with power to overcome the 3.54
problem so I don't care that I have lost all my off road ability with that
truck, but that combo with a 2.25 would be poor.
Have a great day!

From: Mike Smith,  EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 98 08:27:49 EST
Subject: Re: Salisbury conversion in S3 88

>1.  Is there only one type of this axle to consider? Is it the one from the
>109 V8?

All 109's from SIII ('72) onward had them as do all 110's. I'm sure there are 
many different configurations, as to suspension and brakes, depending on when 
they were produced. 3.54 gears probably didn't show up until the 110's.

later
DaveB

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 98 10:41:18 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Salisbury conversion in S3 88

> Is it the one from the 109 V8?
>If you want 3.54 then yes. 

109 V8s came with 3.54? Can someone clear this up? Zippy?

>Good question. I beleve some of the SIII's used a 24 spline axle in the
>front 

only in the later models. All US SIII's are 10-spline all around.

>>Note that the 3.54 probably WON'T fit the 4.7 diff carrier.

Wrong. Most 3.54 diffs have the 24 spline carrier, so you need to swap the gears
into the ealrier 10-spline carrier so your axles will work.

KAM also makes a 4.1 as well as other non-standard ratio r&p sets.
4.1 sounds like a nice compromise 'tween on and off road use.

BTW your bouncy ride is due to the HD springs, you need to be carrying quite a 
load to make these ride smooth. Go back to the stock springs, they are far more 
than sufficient. I'm curious what you are carrying in the back that weighs more 
than the stock 1/2 ton max payload...

later
DaveB

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 98 10:50:01 EST
Subject: Re: SIII 88" brake overhaul

>Or is this all too ambitious? If everything is working, just the shoes
>are worn, should I just replace the shoes and be done with it?

Hey if it aint broke, don't fix it.
If the shoes are worn (6 years? they probably are) change em, springs too, check
the inner diameter of the drums. if they're too far off spec they will get too 
hot and start to fade, check behind the dust boots on the cylinders to see if 
they are leaking? Is it dry? don't worry about it. If they are leaking, check to
see if you can move the bleed screw. If yes then pull the cylinder aprt in place
to look at the seal, if the inside isn't too rough then put a kit in it. I've 
heard pneumatic impact wrenches are good for breaking loose stuck bleed screws, 
havent tried it myself. But I guess it wouldn't be as likely to break it off as 
you and your 3-foot breaker bar :) If the cylinders are all good and you can 
move the bleed screws, then you may want to replace the brake fluid as a 
preventive measure. Just open em one at a time and bleed until they run clean.
Slap it all together, go for a test drive and then readjust the brakes, give 
yourself a pat on the back and go buy a slab of beer with the deutsche marks (or
whatever currency you happen to be using) you saved. Ring all your friends and 
tell them what a great job you did.
 
later
DaveB
Advice and words of wisdom and warning warmly welcomed!

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)      +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)      +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)      +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT       +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail        channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 17:41:31 +0100
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: BP

Hi Richard - can't you find it in your cache? I'd love to see it!

Richard Marsden wrote:
> Yep, it appears to have been taken off line.  (I've just tried it again).
> Going by the 3 emails I've had  saying it doesn't work, it went offline in
> the early hours of this morning.
> The original, had a copy of the BP homepage. On selecting any option, it
> went to a series of pages from someone who had their car damaged (quite
> badly) by a BP carwash. He had no luck getting any money out of BP, and

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 33 lines)]
> >Someone at work has just shown me:   http://www.britishpetroleum.co.uk/
> >Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 16:57:52 +0000
Subject: Re: BP

Just looking...

Got a few files, which I'll ZIP up without piccies. Private email only me
thinks...

The GuestBook is still up:

http://www.lpage.com/wgb/wgbview.dbm?owner=Britishpetroleum

It was the ISP that pulled the plug on the main site.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

channel6@post2.tele.dk on 01/28/98 04:41:31 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Re: BP

Hi Richard - can't you find it in your cache? I'd love to see it!
Richard Marsden wrote:
> Yep, it appears to have been taken off line.  (I've just tried it again).
> Going by the 3 emails I've had  saying it doesn't work, it went offline
in
      [ truncated by lro-lite (was 33 lines)]
> >Someone at work has just shown me:   http://www.britishpetroleum.co.uk/
> >Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)
--
Adrian Redmond
---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)           +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)             +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)             +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                   +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                   channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)     channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 09:03:57 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Subject: Re: Importing Land Rovers

At 09:40 PM 1/28/98 +1300, Graham Furniss wrote:
:It occurs to me that since the 101 was manufatured from 1970 on there are
:in fact 3 years of 101's which can be legally imported under the 25 year
:old rule and each year there are more. In another 5 years they will ALL be
:legal (if the rules don't change) so what is the problem?. Obviously there
:are more problems or a longer wait for CS models though (except for early
:Range Rovers, also made from 1970 on).
:
:Or have I got the wrong end of the stick?

 Graham, you've got it right!  There is no problem.

-Michael

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 19:43:54 +0200 (EET)
From: "R. Wade Hughes" <hughes@trshp.trs.ntc.nokia.com>
Subject: Re: Replacing Wheel Studs

-- 
Hello:

Could somebody explain the proper way to install replacement wheel
studs? Three of the originals came out with the nut when I
changed the flat tyre last week. New ones that I got from Paddock have
splines and do not thread all the way... From examining these, it
looks like I have to file away the threads in the wheel hub & then
hammer the replacements in? Am I wrong?

Thanks for reponses in advance,
Wade

R. Wade Hughes
Integration Engineer, Network Management Systems    
NTC, Nokia Group            
Valimotie 1, 2nd Floor        82 Pontiac GP 267 V8 T-Roof    (in Canada)
00045 Helsinki, Finland       70 Land Rover SIIA Petrol Hardtop "Zenith"
Tel. (358-9)-511-6332         73 Citroen 2CV (6-engine) Red     "Zéphyr"
Fax: (358-9)-511-63310
Net: hughes@trshp.ntc.nokia.com (Unix)
 or:  wade.hughes@ntc.nokia.com (MS Mail)

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 12:48:50 EST
Subject: Bonnet mounted spare, now won't open...

Ok, After 2 years of having the kit, I finally mounted the spare up front.
Thanks to all who recommended using a Unibit to make the big holes; I will now
also recommend it. 

Now, the hood doesn't "pop up" when the release cable is pulled, i get it open
by pulling the same cable through the grille with my finger, then using my
other hand to lift the front lip. I'm contemplating doing a mod on the catch
mechanism, like eliminating it or putting in a release at the front instead of
inside the car. (I've never understood that; every time I want to open the
bonnet, I'm at the front of the car, or outside it...)

The other thing about the whole procedure is that the central pin with a hole
for a lock doesn't go up far enough, or perhaps LR means for me to trim down
the rubber bumpers and lower the tire in relation to it. Oh well, it wasn't
locked on the back door, and that was way easier to get at and remove.

Despite that, I recommend it to anyone who's got a spare on the rear door, 3
hinges or not. If it bothers your front visibility, get an inside mount. Every
screw on the (now removed) rear mount was bent and unuseable. Now what to do
about the holes in the back door? Drag 'chute mount like funny-car dragsters?!

pat
93  110

ps: I also mounted the light grilles I got from Eric Z at the 96 Mid-Atlantic.
(Took off the -fairly useless- LR bull bar ages ago.) Too many changes and I
don't recognize my own vehicle.

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 12:54:27 EST
Subject: Re: Bonnet mounted spare, now won't open...

In a message dated 1/28/98 12:50:49 PM Eastern Standard Time, SPYDERS@aol.com
writes:

<< about the holes in the back door? Drag 'chute mount like funny-car
dragsters?!
  >>
 Fill them with Al brazing rod, sand smooth and paint : )

Nate

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 98 13:16:29 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Replacing Wheel Studs

>Could somebody explain the proper way to install replacement wheel
>studs? Three of the originals came out with the nut

Wade 
You cna still get the threaded kind if you look around. The splined ones 
are for the later vehicles. They do seem to stay in better though. Don't 
know what's required to fit the later one to the old style hub. 
The threaded ones get threaded in, then peened over into the groove that 
goes around just inside the perimeter of the inner side of the hub. 
Is that confusing enuogh for ya?

later
DaveB
Arlington VA 
72 Series III 88 "green car" or sometimes "green hell"
w/press in wheel studs

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 13:15:54 -0500
From: Garret Scott <scottgs@usit.net>
Subject: Re: Salisbury conversion in S3 88

dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org wrote:

-> >>Note that the 3.54 probably WON'T fit the 4.7 diff carrier.
-> Wrong. Most 3.54 diffs have the 24 spline carrier, so you need 
->to swap the gears into the ealrier 10-spline carrier so your axles
will work.

**WRONG WRONG**

Most 3.54 don't have 24 spline carriers. Only the very latest models
have them, those with the 4-pinion diff.  The series vehicles with 24
spline axles which use the Rover-type diffs only have 24 splines at the
wheel end of the axle.  They all have 10 splines in the diff end.

Also, you can put 4.7 gears on a 3.54 carrier if you use a spacer ring,
and extra long bolts. But you CAN'T put 3.54 gears on a 4.7 carrier at
all. Well, unless you own a machine shop or something...  

Because of the difference in ratio, the pinion head of the 3.54 pinion
is a significantly larger diameter, and in order fit into the same
differential housing (stump, for southern Americans), the diff carrier
itself had to be offset significantly to one side as compared to the 4.7
carrier.  

This is one reason why the 3.54 gear set is significantly stronger than
the 4.7.  The other reason is the inherent reduction in force applied to
the gear teeth produced by the reduction in ratio itself. all added up,
the 3.54 gear set is maybe 50% stronger.  

Garret Scott
Knoxville, TN

------------------------------

Subject: 101 production (was US 25 year import rule) 
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 12:49:46 -0600
From: Benjamin Smith <bens@psasolar.psa.pencom.com>

Graham wrote:

> It occurs to me that since the 101 was manufatured from 1970 on there are
> in fact 3 years of 101's which can be legally imported under the 25 year
> old rule and each year there are more. In another 5 years they will ALL be
> legal (if the rules don't change) so what is the problem?. 

	101 Prototypes were built in 1972, 1973 and 1974.  The main production
was 1975-1978.

(From the LR FAQ: www.off-road.com/LR_FAQ/ )
 

101 Production

          1972  1973  1974  1975  1976  1977  1978  Total
========  ====  ====  ====  ====  ====  ====  ====  =====
RHD home    10     6     8   532   337   426     3  1,322
RHD expt     -     -     -     -     6    22     -     28
LHD expt     2     -     -    76   304   201     -    538
RHD 24v      9     3     -    70    86     2     -    170
LHD 24v      6     1     -   160   160   111    27    474
RHD 24v expt -     -     -     -     -    64    28     92

Total       27    10     8   838   902   826    58  2,624

	

Benjamin Smith-----------bens@colltech.com----------Land Rover: '72 SIII 88"
Collective Technologies (a pencom company)                      '94 Discovery

"..If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entries
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------

From: Mark 3219 <Mark3219@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 13:59:34 EST
Subject: Electric fuel pump

I have a 1962 88  1/2  cab 99% original I have been having fuel problems . I
finally figured out it was rust flakes going into the pick up tube . Along the
way I installed an electric fuel pump . I need to know how to wire this thing
through a oil pressure relief valve or some other thing so that if I am using
the electric pump and I am involved in a accident the pump will stop !!! I  am
putting a mechanical pump back on after I rebuild it . P.S. I removed the gas
tank cleaned and sealed it . When I can afford new sender for the tank I will
reinstall It . I am using the aux tank with no guage for now . Thanks Mark 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 11:29:35 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Subject: Re: Electric fuel pump

At 01:59 PM 1/28/98 EST, Mark 3219 wrote:
:I have a 1962 88  1/2  cab 99% original I have been having fuel problems . I
:finally figured out it was rust flakes going into the pick up tube . Along the
:way I installed an electric fuel pump . I need to know how to wire this thing
:through a oil pressure relief valve or some other thing so that if I am using
:the electric pump and I am involved in a accident the pump will stop !!! I  am
:putting a mechanical pump back on after I rebuild it . P.S. I removed the gas
:tank cleaned and sealed it . When I can afford new sender for the tank I will
:reinstall It . I am using the aux tank with no guage for now . Thanks Mark 

 Old time car racers use a plunger type electric cutoff switch
 mounted to the firewall.  Press it, *all* electrics are off.
 These days such a switch may well be impact actuated.  My LR
 has a Bosch key type cutoff switch.  It has a large red handle
 that easily turns and comes out.  Kinda handy as a anti-theft
 device too, since it can be mounted with only the opening
 showing through the firewall, dash or under seat areas.

-Michael

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 14:58:11 -0500 (EST)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re: Replacing Wheel Studs

Hi Wade...

   I have done this conversion on my 88. I got the new studs and nuts from
RN and they told me to drill the holes out on the hub. I don't remember what
size of drill they told me to use, and I can't even check for you as it is
in the garage and the door is frozen in ice since the storm we had here. I
do know that it was just big enough to take the threads out of the holes.
Once I had drilled the holes I put the studs in and pulled them into place
with a nut. I called RN after I installed the first one because they are
considerably shoter than the threaded ones but they said that they are
supposed to be that way and are perfectly safe. So far they have been on the
truck for 1 year and have been fine.

Good luck.
Keith
1961 Series II 88"
Ottawa

>Hello:
>Could somebody explain the proper way to install replacement wheel
>studs? Three of the originals came out with the nut when I
>changed the flat tyre last week. New ones that I got from Paddock have
>splines and do not thread all the way... From examining these, it
>looks like I have to file away the threads in the wheel hub & then
>hammer the replacements in? Am I wrong?
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
>Thanks for reponses in advance,
>Wade

------------------------------

From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Subject: Series III list to starboard
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 12:04:02 -0800

I have a puzzling situation that I'd like to put to the group for their
opinions.  I have owned a 1973 Series III-88 (left-hand drive) since
new, and still drive it today.  In the early 1980s, the vehicle began to
sag a bit to the rear, so I replaced the original springs with a new set
of 109 springs with the helper leaves.  Then in the late 1980s I noticed
a bit of daylight between the leaves of the original front springs, so I
replaced them with a new set of stock 88 springs.  So far, so good.
However, within the past few months, I've noticed that the unloaded
vehicle tends to list to the right a bit.  When I drive it by myself,
the vehicle seems to sit relatively level, but when anyone sits in the
passenger seat, the list returns.  And while Series Land Rovers always
seem to lean in a turn, mine now seems to lean more to the outside of a
left turn than it does to the outside of a right turn.  Of course, the
fact that most roads are cambered to the right may accentuate the
feeling of leaning to the right.

I know the spring cambers are different from one side of the vehicle to
the other to compensate for the weight of the driver, and I'm positive
(but I'll check again) that I installed the new springs on their proper
sides as spelled out in the factory service manual.  So my questions
are: 1) why might the vehicle develop a list to the right when I don't
think it had one before?  2)  Do all left-hand drive Series IIIs list
slightly to the right and I've just never noticed it during the past 25
years?  3) What might I have inadvertently done wrong when installing
the replacement springs back in the 1980s that has caused the list?  4)
What can I do to get rid of the list (assuming it's not normal?)  5)
Since everything else on the vehicle is functioning fine and it handles
well, should I just not worry about it?  Thanks to those of you who can
offer me the benefit of their experience.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 98 15:32:05 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Replacing Wheel Studs

>Once I had drilled the holes I put the studs in and pulled them into place
>with a nut. 

"pushed" mine in with a big hammer.

>I called RN after I installed the first one because they are
>considerably shoter than the threaded ones but they said that they are
>supposed to be that way and are perfectly safe. 

on the hub that was designed for these studs, the hole is counterbored so that 
the flange at the base of the stud is about 1/4" below the surface.

as long as the nut goes on its okay. I've been told that maximum strength 
in threaded fasteners occurs when 3 threads are engaged. IOW, if the 
material you are threading is 3/32" thick, you need 32 tpi. or more for 
maximum strength. Anything more is "extra". Personally, I like to see the 
stud protrude from the end of the nut.

later
DaveB

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 98 15:35:59 EST
Subject: Re: Series III list to starboard

>Since everything else on the vehicle is functioning fine and it handles
>well, should I just not worry about it?  Thanks to those of you who can
>offer me the benefit of their experience.

have you learned nothing in 25 years of rover owenrship? Ignore it and it 
wont go away, but you will get used to it. Give it some time and the other 
spring will begin to sag. In ten or fifteen years, you can replace them all 
again.
Trying to fix this now will surely open a much larger can o' worms

Just my 2 cents

DaveB

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 15:50:51 -0500 (EST)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Replacing Wheel Studs

>on the hub that was designed for these studs, the hole is counterbored so that 
>the flange at the base of the stud is about 1/4" below the surface.
>as long as the nut goes on its okay. I've been told that maximum strength 
>in threaded fasteners occurs when 3 threads are engaged. IOW, if the 
>material you are threading is 3/32" thick, you need 32 tpi. or more for 
>maximum strength. Anything more is "extra". Personally, I like to see the 
>stud protrude from the end of the nut.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
>later
>DaveB

I didn't like the idea of not having the stud showing at the end of the nut
at first either. The stud on mine is about 1/8" from the end of the nut. I
know that I do like the idea of having the flange at the back though, I had
all the studs pull out of one hub while I was driving (I was in my driveway,
turning, and barely moving at the time thank the Rover gods!!!).

Keith
1961 Series II 88"
Ottawa

------------------------------

From: JSmallals <JSmallals@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 16:37:09 EST
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Replacing Wheel Studs

Hello all,
I have been driving my IIA with both back wheels replaced with all press-in
studs for the past year.  Although the sight of unthreaded lug nuts scares me
to no end, they have been just as good as the old shafts.  I have heard that
the original lug shafts are still available for overseas and are a
considerable amount cheaper than the press in studs...not to mention the
benefits to the psyche of seeing a fully threaded shaft...might be worth
looking into???
James Small
66IIA SWB SW--with it's back wheels just--barely--hanging on!!!!

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 98 17:05:14 EST
Subject: Re[4]: Replacing Wheel Studs

>I have been driving my IIA with both back wheels replaced with all press-in
>studs for the past year.  Although the sight of unthreaded lug nuts scares me
>to no end, 

solution? grind the lugnuts down.

later

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 17:25:37 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Salisbury conversion in S3 88

>>the same differential housing (stump, for southern Americans),

We don't call 'em stumps, y'all. We call 'em pumpkins!
Cheers!!
John Dillingham
near Canton, GA
KF4NAS
LROA #1095
SoLaRoS #23
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 14:55:32 -0500
Subject: Re: OVLR Dork Tari Award (was Towball Award)

Fah - these Kalifornians have no concept of overdone bad taste....New
Englanders do - we just usually don't indulge ourselves.

Listen, my children, and you shall hear of a Seies IIa 88 - decorated as
none has ever been before.

As all of you are all aware, I have an 88 I'm working on for my  daughter.
By the time she turns 16 I might actually have it finished...I hope...but
that's neither here nor there. The point today is the paint and trim.

Pink.

Serious PINK. DAMN PINK.

BARBIE CORVETTE PINK, to be precise.

A IIa 88, done in pink inside and out, with a pink-and-white striped
hardtop over top of that. The seats will be maroon velour, with a maroon
rug to match. The interior panels and headliner will be, of course, also in
the pink and maroon, with chrome anchoring strips where and as needed.

All of this wil be mounted on Uniroyal 235/85 16s on white LR wheels, with
the hub caps done in a discreet maroon to match the interior. Chromed front
bumper and winch, of course, and chrome handles on the maroon rear
crossmember.

The dashboard won't be forgotten either - done in my landmark walnut, but
this time with inlaid chrome trim arouund the inboard GPS, stereo with CD
player, and center console for all those things young ladies find necessary
- like CapStun for people like Berg.....

It won't be ready this year - but I'm going to model the paint job for all
to see on Dixon's 109 at the Birthday Party. He's been begging for a
respray on the old beast, so I've decided that this year I'll indulge him -
but in my choice of colours.

          ajr

------------------------------

From: Mark 3219 <Mark3219@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 18:39:07 EST
Subject: Electric fuel pump

Mike I read message about a kill switch for all electrics . I like the idea of
that but I still need the fuel pump to stop on its own. I can not guarentee
that I will be able to hit the switch in a worst case situation. You know what
they say " an once of prevention is worth a pound of cure !! " Has any one out
there wired an electric fuel pump so it will stop  if you are involved in an
accident . I thought of going through the ignition switch but unless you turn
the key off the pump still has power . Maybe I am worring to much as the pump
is now just a back up .  Mark

------------------------------

From: "Chala, Richard Justin - BUS" <CHARJ112@bus.orst.edu>
Subject: RE: Salisbury conversion in S3 88"
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 16:09:01 -0800

	Art,

	I have a S3 88" with 3.54 gear ratios.  I got a Salisbury from a 109
(not V8) and bought a 3.54 R&P set for a Dana 60.  You do need to move the
spring mounts, they do come with 11" brakes (I swapped the 11" brakes to the
front.)  
	I don't know how you are going to turn such tall gearing, but I have
a V8 to turn mine! :-)

	Good luck, and it isn't as bad as you might think.  Just be sure to
make sure you have the rear drive line angles correct before you finalize
the welding of the spring mounts. (tack them on the axle and then measure it
up, then finalize the welding!)

	Take care,
	Rich Chala
      charj112@bus.orst.edu
          _____  
          [__[__\==_                             
         *[_"___|__])                 
     ____(o)___(o)__________
      _______________________________________
	     Series III, 88"  Land Rover 4x4  (V8)!!  ;-)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 16:12:33 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Subject: Re: Electric fuel pump

At 06:39 PM 1/28/98 EST, Mark 3219 wrote:
:Mike I read message about a kill switch for all electrics . I like the idea of
:that but I still need the fuel pump to stop on its own. I can not guarentee
:that I will be able to hit the switch in a worst case situation. You know what
:they say " an once of prevention is worth a pound of cure !! " Has any one out
:there wired an electric fuel pump so it will stop  if you are involved in an
:accident . I thought of going through the ignition switch but unless you turn
:the key off the pump still has power . Maybe I am worring to much as the pump
:is now just a back up .  Mark

 Hey, I've got it!

 Wire the hot lead to the electric fuel pump through a few
 glass fuse holders, each one strategically placed around the
 exterior at every point of impact.  Anyone gets hit, it will
 break glass and cut the circuit!..

-Michael

 ...Yea, but the other car will probably close the circuit
 again with it's mass of metal intertwinned with the fuse
 holder.  Oh well, back to drawing board! ;) 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 19:18:46 -0500
From: Garret Scott <scottgs@usit.net>
Subject: Re: Salisbury conversion in S3 88

NOW THEM ARE FIGHTIN WORDS!   We call them STUMPS here in Tennersee.  A
pumpkin is what we'uns make pie out of, or where yous put yer stump in
the axle.  

That is, the Pumpkin is the round holler openin in the Axle housing
where you stick the Stump!  

Garret Scott (KB4QGN)
Knoxville, Tennessee

my Solihull@aol.com wrote:
->
-> >>the same differential housing (stump, for southern Americans),
-> We don't call 'em stumps, y'all. We call 'em pumpkins!
-> Cheers!!
-> John Dillingham
-> near Canton, GA
-> KF4NAS
-> LROA #1095
-> SoLaRoS #23
-> 73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
-> 72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
-> Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 19:30:19 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Importing Land Rovers

> It occurs to me that since the 101 was manufatured from 1970 on there
> are
> in fact 3 years of 101's which can be legally imported under the 25
> year
> old rule and each year there are more.

101 production started in 1975 and stopped in 1978. James Taylor shows a
picture of a prototype from around 1972. Either wait several more years,
or see if you can find an early prototype with documentation.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 21:02:32
From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: O/D tool.

I just checked out the web site for the o/d tool, sounds good. Has anyone
orderd one yet? I was quoted the sum of 100UKP just this past monday for
the original tool. This is not a bad price.

Jim Wolf

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 98 20:19:14 EST
Subject: Re: Electric fuel pump

>Mike I read message about a kill switch for all electrics . I like the idea of
>that but I still need the fuel pump to stop on its own. I can not guarentee
>that I will be able to hit the switch in a worst case situation. You know what
>they say " an once of prevention is worth a pound of cure !! " Has any one out
>there wired an electric fuel pump so it will stop  if you are involved in an
>accident . I thought of going through the ignition switch but unless you turn
>the key off the pump still has power . Maybe I am worring to much as the pump
>is now just a back up .  Mark

Duh. just keep using the standard pump. Goes forever. 
Watch now mine will fail...
But I do have a spare...

later
DaveB.

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 98 20:17:50 EST
Subject: Re: O/D tool.

>I just checked out the web site for the o/d tool, sounds good. Has anyone
>orderd one yet? I was quoted the sum of 100UKP just this past monday for
>the original tool. This is not a bad price.

and the original tool doesn't take a torque wrench, as it was designed for the 
GEARBOX, which has no set torque value on that nut. Its with the o/d that you 
need 100ftlbs.
Which BTW is eonugh to roll the car, so you need to put it in gear and have 
somebody wrench on the crankshaft nut, or block the flywheel.

later
Dave

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 19:59:42 -0600
From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Subject: Re: 101 production (was US 25 year import rule)

Hi All,
 I am sorry to have to bring this up but the 101's are or seem to be
from EX-MOD stocks which can never be imported for that reason.  It is
difficult to import us made equipment from closed US bases as well.
 I admit that my idea was to bring in a body & frame to put a drive
train in & I could most likely do that by putting in a US truck drive
train & using the related title as well.  This would be expensive but it
would work.  I did not realize the 101 was 4000 GVW at the time.
Thanks to the wisdom of the members of the list I have given up this
project.

Regards,
 Rob Davis_Chicago

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 21:16:31 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: How do I mount Rivnuts?

SPYDERS wrote:

>  I'm mood to do things to the rover this week. One procedure calls for
> the use
> of M6 Rivnuts, which I have, and a tab-washer, which I also have. So,
> I guess
> I have to drill a hole just a little bit wider than the rivnut, and
> insert the
> rivnut and somehow get the bit behind the panel to expand. What's the
> step-by-
> step to getting these things to work?

After the Brooklands LR 2-2A-3 worshop manual section on installing a
capstan winch, installation of 5/16" riv-nuts:

Drill a 27/64 hole in the chassiscross-member to fit the riv-nut.

Fit a nut and plain washer to a 5/16" bolt with a threaded portion 1
1/2" long. Drill the thread out of a 3/8" nut with a 5/16" drill, slide
it on the bolt, then screw on a riv-nut. Have 1/8" of the bolt
protruding from the end of the riv-nut. Then snug the 5/16" nut and
distance piece (drilled 3/8" bolt) against the riv-nut. Insert the
asembly into the previously drilled hole. With three hands place
appropriate size wrenches on the bolt head, 5/16" nut and distance
piece. Turn the 5/16" nut 2 1/2 turns while restraining the bolt and
distance piece from turning. Remove the bolt, etc.

The complication of the "distance piece" and three hands and wrenches is
necessary to keep the riv-nut from turning as you tighten the nut to
collapse the riv-nut. I can scan and e-mail the pictures from the manual
if needed. The alternative is to use a riv-nut installation tool which
works somewhat like a large pop-rivet tool.

BTW, this manual is generally a somewhat haphazord condensation of the
LR factory workshop manuals. But it does have a chapter on optional
equipment with sections on: centre pto, rear pto, transposing the pto
gears, rear drive pulley, engine governer (petrol models), capstan
winch, hydraulic front winch, hand speed control (petrol), oil cooler,
fire fighting equipment, and fault diagnosis (fire pump). This seems to
be SI vintage info.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 20:24:48 -0600 (CST)
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@ricochet.net>
Subject: Re: Miniatures (was: USA)

>I  have approx 130 Land Rovers and 70 Range Rovers as well as the above,
>total value of these 1000 bucks. ( before you all want to buy, they are
>miniatures. ) 
 
Does anyone know if the min. LR list is still going?  I think I'd like to
sign up for it... 

P.S., Hot Wheels has put out a LR 109" (Looks like the Corgi casting) in
Orange, with "Smith Electric" decals.  Not sure if it's current or past
(Copyright is '96) but it's Collector #610. 

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
roger@sinasohn.com                           that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 20:24:56 -0600 (CST)
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@ricochet.net>
Subject: Re: Importing Land Rovers

>-why not borrow the VIN # off of one of those 110s? 
>-Will the feds ever find out if there's two LRs
>-registered with the same numbers on two places on earth? Clones,
>Isn't that illegal? No matter what country you're in?

Well, if the vehicles are identical (but one has a US VIN and the other
doesn't), why not just "swap" vehicles?  

>Is Land Rover 110 ownership so rewarding as to make it worth spending
>time in Federal prison?

Talk about custom plates!  =8^O

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
roger@sinasohn.com                           that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 21:39:50 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: 101 production (was US 25 year import rule)

car4doc wrote:

>   I am sorry to have to bring this up but the 101's are or seem to be
> from EX-MOD stocks which can never be imported for that reason.  It is
> difficult to import us made equipment from closed US bases as well.

I don't believe there is an absolute prohibition on importing
ex-military equipment, but special clearance may be required in some
cases. Certainly a number of ex-military LRs have been imported legally
including at least one "Pink Panther". I would guess operable weapons
systems are a no-no. Someone on the list mentioned getting permission
for import through ATF. Anyone know the actual regulations?

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 21:49:06 -0500
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: Salisbury on an 88

To fit a salisbury axle on an 88 requires several modifications, first you
have a choice of modifying the axle to make the spring mountings and shock
absorber mountings the saame as an 88 because the springs are closer
together on an 88 than they are on a 109, this is actually not too bad since
the welds can be ground off and the spring pads repositioneed and re welded.
Alternatively modify the spring mounts on the chassis to fit the springs
effectively to the outside of the chassis, as on a 109 rather than directly
underneath the chassis as on an 88. This is quite a task, but thought by
some to increase stability.
 The Salisbury axle is heavier than the standard 88 axle, in addition the
differential is considerably longer, it is therefore necessary to shorten
the rear driveshaft, this steepens the drive angle somewhat and limits axle
travel, I have seen the ffont of the diff raised to offset soem of this but
this is not gtood paractise for longevity on a raod motor.
  Changing to a 3.54 axle, as on the stage 1 V8 is possible, but a 3,54
ratio is really too high for a 2.25 litre engine, particularly when mated
with 7.50 tyres.
 The salisbury also has 11 " drium brakes, the 10 " brakes can easily be
fitted to maintain brake balance, or as suggested also fit 11 " on the front.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: "Eyres, Richard RP" <Eyres.Richard.RP@bhp.com.au>
Subject: RE: Electric fuel pump
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 15:45:00 +1100

Mike I read message about a kill switch for all electrics . I like the
idea of
that but I still need the fuel pump to stop on its own. I can not
guarentee
that I will be able to hit the switch in a worst case situation. You
know what
they say " an once of prevention is worth a pound of cure !! " Has any
one out
there wired an electric fuel pump so it will stop  if you are involved
in an
accident . I thought of going through the ignition switch but unless you
turn
the key off the pump still has power . Maybe I am worring to much as the
pump
is now just a back up .  Mark>>

Hmm, I'm scratching my head trying hard to remember. Back in the days
when I lived in the UK I used to 'do' Classic  Car Trials, and I fitted
such a device to my old Skoda. I'm afraid my memory has let me down, but
I think it involved a relay controlled by the oil pressure light which
would turn off the pump if the oil light came on. I remember being
concerned about starting, so I also had a spring return override switch
to ensure fuel was pumped to the carb for start up. In practice, as long
as there was fuel in the float chamber, starting was no problem. Hope
this helps.
Richard
S3 SWB
New Zealand.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 21:58:59 -0500
From: Winn Bearden <wbearden@americus.net>
Subject: Re: Salisbury conversion in S3 88

We've always called 'em chunks.

Solihull@aol.com wrote:

> >>the same differential housing (stump, for southern Americans),
> We don't call 'em stumps, y'all. We call 'em pumpkins!
> Cheers!!
> John Dillingham
> near Canton, GA
> KF4NAS
> LROA #1095
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> 72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
> Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1

--
Winn Bearden
P.O. Box 464
Americus, GA 31709
912-924-6513 (H)
912-928-4984 (CELL)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 22:03:34 -0500
From: Winn Bearden <wbearden@americus.net>
Subject: Re: Electric fuel pump

A lot of newer American cars have an inertia  switch on the fuel pumps. I've heard
of people being bumped  and thier car won't restart until the switch is reset.
Marbe you can find one at NAPA .

Mark 3219 wrote:

> Mike I read message about a kill switch for all electrics . I like the idea of
> that but I still need the fuel pump to stop on its own. I can not guarentee
> that I will be able to hit the switch in a worst case situation. You know what
> they say " an once of prevention is worth a pound of cure !! " Has any one out
> there wired an electric fuel pump so it will stop  if you are involved in an
> accident . I thought of going through the ignition switch but unless you turn
> the key off the pump still has power . Maybe I am worring to much as the pump
> is now just a back up .  Mark

--
Winn Bearden
P.O. Box 464
Americus, GA 31709
912-924-6513 (H)
912-928-4984 (CELL)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 22:12:38 -0500
From: Garret Scott <scottgs@usit.net>
Subject: Re: Salisbury on an 88

You know guys, there is a fairly good and complete article on this exact
swap in this month's (January) issue of Land Rover World.  Starts on
page 124.  Pictures are included.

And if anyone wants my opinion (I know no one asked!), I wouldn't do
this swap if all you've got is a 2.25 litre.  I think upgrading the
existing Rover-type axle would be a much more reasonable and satifactory
alternative.  Just install a 4-pinion diff, and 24-spline axles and
flanges.  Make certian the 24 spline axles are 24-spline on BOTH ends. 
They were never originally made this way for the Rover-type series
axles.  Several manufacturers now make them: KAM, Ashcroft etc.  The
4-pinion diff, and the 24-spline shafts will make a huge difference in
the durability of the axle. 

I bet the cost, and certianly the aggravation would be less in the end.
The best thing about this upgrade is it allows an opportunity to stick
in an ARB locker or similar.

Garret Scott
Knoxville, Tennesseeeee

William L. Leacock wrote:
> To fit a salisbury axle on an 88 requires several modifications, first you
> have a choice of modifying the axle to make the spring mountings and shock
> absorber mountings the saame as an 88 because the springs are closer
> together on an 88 than they are on a 109, this is actually not too bad since
> the welds can be ground off and the spring pads repositioneed and re welded.
> Alternatively modify the spring mounts on the chassis to fit the springs
> effectively to the outside of the chassis, as on a 109 rather than directly
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 23 lines)]
> Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
>  88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 22:20:31 -0500
From: Garret Scott <scottgs@usit.net>
Subject: Re: Salisbury on an 88 - CORRECTION

This guy can't get anything straight.  It's in the FEBRUARY 1998 issue
of Land Rover World on Page 124.

Garret Scott wrote:
> You know guys, there is a fairly good and complete article on this exact
> swap in this month's (January) issue of Land Rover World.  Starts on
> page 124.  Pictures are included.
> And if anyone wants my opinion (I know no one asked!), I wouldn't do
> this swap if all you've got is a 2.25 litre.  I think upgrading the
> existing Rover-type axle would be a much more reasonable and satifactory

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 23 lines)]
> Garret Scott
> Knoxville, Tennesseeeee

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 19:55:58 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Subject: Re: 101 production (was US 25 year import rule)

At 07:59 PM 1/28/98 -0600, car4doc wrote:
: I am sorry to have to bring this up but the 101's are or seem to be
:from EX-MOD stocks which can never be imported for that reason.

 Why is that?  We import ex-military Unimogs and other vehicles
 all the time.  As long as they are over 25 calendar years old
 for the US, or 15 years to the day for Canada, there are no
 restrictions.  Judging from Ben Smith's FC-101 production data,
 some can be brought in now, and most others in the next 5 years.

-Michael

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 23:32:37 -0500
From: Art Maravelis <amjas@gis.net>
Subject: Re: Salisbury conversion in S3 88

Greetings all,

I forgot to mention some points in my original post on this topic:

1.  I will replace the stock 2.25 petrol with either an American V6 (4.0L)
or a V8 and a matching transmission - hopefully a 5-spd. This will allow me
to get rid of the Fairey OD which will be useless sooner than later. I
realize there is NO WAY the 2.25 will drive 3.54 gears plus the big tires.
As long as we're talking V8 is it possible to fit one without modifying the
front of a Series, that is without turning it into a D90 look-alike?

2.  Next comes a Detroit Locker for the Salisbury. As for the front I'll fit
Rover 3.54s along with a Detroit True-Trac. Maybe I can locate stronger
halfshafts for the front, but I'll probably wait till it breaks!

All that's left now is to find a worthy off-road site and have fun! Graham
thanks for all the info!!!

Art
'72 S3 88
Boston, MA  USA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 21:17:32 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Bonnet mounted spare, now won't open...

SPYDERS wrote:

> Now, the hood doesn't "pop up"

I did this and removed the spring loaded "pin" from the hood and installedtwo
"military" hood tie downs at the front sides.  This also solves the worry
about snapped cables.

cheers

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: rovah@agate.net
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 00:35:47 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RR/Chevy Conversion page updated..

For those of you following along with my Chevy transplant into my '87 RR, I've updated the webpage with some new text.  No new pictures-yet! :-)

Regards, John

John Cassidy
Bangor, Maine USA

The Downeast Land Rover Club, <http://www.agate.net/~rovah/>
X0 of the V(irtual)MFA 323rd Cougars/Flying GSC's F/A-18 Hornet game <http://www.tstonramp.com/~kahuna/index.html>

2 Wheels: Ducati M900, Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S
4 Wheels: 1998 SE Discovery, 1987 Range Rover-"Smedley," 1966 Series IIA 88", 1972 Series III 88"-"SWAMBO" 1963 Unimog 404.1-S "The Caterpiller"

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 08:21:00 +0000
Subject: Re: Bonnet mounted spare, now won't open...

>Now, the hood doesn't "pop up" when the release cable is pulled, i get it
>open
>by pulling the same cable through the grille with my finger, then using my
>other hand to lift the front lip. I'm contemplating doing a mod on the
catch
>mechanism, like eliminating it or putting in a release at the front
instead >of
>inside the car. (I've never understood that; every time I want to open the
>bonnet, I'm at the front of the car, or outside it...)

No I don't either, a security measure I guess.

Of course, *proper* Land Rovers only have two catches - both outside and on
the front. The prop is held in by one split pin (optional), hinges pivot on
plastic bushes (also optional!)  :-))

Richard (suffering from a 1" inferiority complex)

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 08:30:50 +0000
Subject: Re: 101 production (was US 25 year import rule)

So if I wanted to detonate a nuke on the lawn at the White House, or sail a
Trident Submarine up the Potomac, I'd have to get an Import License?

ahhhhhhhh! Spoils all the fun!

:-)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

dcockey@tir.com on 01/29/98 02:39:50 AM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Re: 101 production (was US 25 year import rule)

car4doc wrote:
>   I am sorry to have to bring this up but the 101's are or seem to be
> from EX-MOD stocks which can never be imported for that reason.  It is
> difficult to import us made equipment from closed US bases as well.
I don't believe there is an absolute prohibition on importing
ex-military equipment, but special clearance may be required in some
cases. Certainly a number of ex-military LRs have been imported legally
including at least one "Pink Panther". I would guess operable weapons
systems are a no-no. Someone on the list mentioned getting permission
for import through ATF. Anyone know the actual regulations?
Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

From: Andy Phillips <AnPi@norsk-data.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Bonnet mounted spare, now won't open...
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 08:57:54 -0000

Don't worry! Its perfectly normal for a defender. I would recommend a
stronger spring, as long as it doesn't become impossible to open! Also,
on my vehicle the bonnet release works inside the cab but I always go to
the front, reach inside the grille and pull the cable vertically
downwards. Pop! the bonnet lifts and I'm at the right place to the check
the oil or whatever. Mine is a 90 and not a defender at that so maybe
the cable runs differently for your vehicle but have a look as it is a
useful tip.

Andy.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	SPYDERS [SMTP:SPYDERS@aol.com]
> Sent:	Wednesday, January 28, 1998 5:49 PM
> To:	lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject:	Bonnet mounted spare, now won't open...

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 51 lines)]
> (Took off the -fairly useless- LR bull bar ages ago.) Too many changes
> and I

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 22:53:35 +1300
From: graham@muddy.gen.nz (Graham Furniss)
Subject: Re: 101 production (was US 25 year import rule)

>Graham wrote:
>> It occurs to me that since the 101 was manufatured from 1970 on there are
>> in fact 3 years of 101's which can be legally imported under the 25 year
>> old rule and each year there are more. In another 5 years they will ALL be
>> legal (if the rules don't change) so what is the problem?.
>        101 Prototypes were built in 1972, 1973 and 1974.  The main production
>was 1975-1978.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 22 lines)]
>RHD 24v expt -     -     -     -     -    64    28     92
>Total       27    10     8   838   902   826    58  2,624

Thanks for that, Benjamin. I was going from a memory of an LROI article
which explained that the original Rangie 4 speed was so strong because it
was actually designed for the 101 and vaguely remembered that the article
said the build dates were the same but oviously not :(. That should teach
me to work from (faulty) memory, but it probably won't!

I guess you guys still have a couple of years to wait :(, although if you
could find a prototype...

Cheers, Graham.
'72 Range Rover (battered but still with original gearbox ! They realy ARE
hard to kill)

------------------------------

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