Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

From: CIrvin1258 <CIrvin1258@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 10:44:18 EST
Subject: Re: Stripping off paint

A 6-8inch high speed disc sander with coarse paper will do the job just fine,
but it MUST be a high-speed sander, or else you'll get scratches.

A friend of mine used to strip TR-3's & 4's with one of these, and he could do
a whole car in about an hour!

Charles

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 10:05:27 -0600
From: Steve Fullwood <ansdf@TTACS.TTU.EDU>
Subject: Re: Ultimate towing story

Shaun Oriold wrote

>I was overlooking my insurance and if i were to buy another car.  My
insurance
>will cover it for 10 days even if i don't tell the insurance company.

Yea mine does too I found out later but at the time I did not know this.

>was there anybody else driving on the road?

No thank God. It was a rual farm road very flat and very straight.

Steve Fullwood

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258 <CIrvin1258@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 10:59:41 EST
Subject: Re: Importing Land Rovers, U.S. Customers ETC; SPOOF

"Then one month, company XYZ imported a ton of flour from Columbia, and the
system set up a flag, and the shipment was impounded and inspected..."

BFD - ANYTHING from Columbia gets held by MRU, CET, and the CST teams for
exam! It's just one of those countries of origin that is suspect, that's all.

The same goes for Nigeria, as well as most of Africa, Iran, Iraq, Syria,
Jordan, and many South American countries. It's not because of the type of
shipment from these countries, but because they're looking for any contraband
goods (Persain rugs, Ivory, drugs, equipment that could be for military use
that's not to be sold to some of these countries, etc.).

Once in a while each year, USDA will flag ANY shipments of personal effects -
no matter where they come from, for the same reason.

I have a friend that I met through work that has a shop in Las Vegas selling
Egyptian art, and she's been doing this for over 15 years. Usually her
shipments go right through with no problems, and then one day, MRU places a
hold on one of them: they found nothing illegal, and the shipment was sent on
its way. USDA did the same once.

It happens all the time - sometimes Customs holds a shipment before it even
lands, and sometimes it's released before it even lands. It depends on the
experience of the inspector, as well as the amount of info that a customs
broker (if any) has before the shipment arrives (on many occasions, a broker
will try to pre-clear a shipment, and they have insufficient documentation for
Customs, and BAM - a hold.)

With regard to vehicles - just make sure that it complies with all federal
regs before you even try to import one.

Charles

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 12:22:35
From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RE: paint removing

I have had good luck using paint stripper(don't remember the name got it at
Big Lots) and 0000 steel wool. This grade doesn't scratch the AL.and will
even leave the original finish, if you are careful. Wear all protective
gear including long sleeves and if possible a full face shield(Big Lots for
the face shield).

Jim Wolf

------------------------------

From: Kevin Sellitti <Kevinsel@gte.net>
Subject: RE: Importing Land Rovers, U.S. Customers ETC; SPOOF
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 11:41:01 -0500

So Tell Me Really? Did Oswald Work Alone?? Or were there Aliens on the grassy knoll???

----------
From: 	Field Operations[SMTP:johnsonm@cia.gov]
Sent: 	Saturday, January 24, 1998 8:27 PM
Subject: 	Re: Importing Land Rovers, U.S. Customers ETC; SPOOF

At 12:59 PM 1/24/98 -0500, you wrote:
>	I just returned from a week long training seminar at Oracle Education.

>	BIG BROTHER IS WATCHING!!!!

Thanks for the tip on our little leaks in the field Agent Sellitti.
Is your address still:
Sellitti, Kevin   11XXX Ml King St N, Saint Petersburg, FL 33716-XXXX 
Phone: (813)XXX-0439 
or is it,
Sellitti, Kevin   Saint Petersburg, FL 33701 
Phone: (813)XXX-0076

In God We Trust,  All Others We Monitor.

NNNN

------------------------------

From: Kevin Sellitti <Kevinsel@gte.net>
Subject: RE: 101 Body kits??
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 11:42:56 -0500

My understanding is that importing "replacement" parts is not illegal. So I suppose it could be registered as a kit car.

----------
From: 	car4doc[SMTP:car4doc@concentric.net]
Sent: 	Saturday, January 24, 1998 3:49 PM
Subject: 	101 Body kits??

Hi All,
 Well it looks as if we are some kind of threat to the US Government
because we want to import 101 LR's   So would there be a problem if we
imported the body of a 101 & installed it on a 109 frame? (like the
proto type was)  Well if I import a body without axles or drive train
Would I be able to install 109 parts which are here?
Regards, 
Rob Davis_Chicago

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 11:56:37 EST
Subject: Gearbox question

Hi all,

I've got 2 SIII gearboxes sitting on the workshop floor.  If one is in good
(not requiring rebuild) shape I'd rather put that in the restoration.  
Question:

With the top (and bottom) covers off, can I assess the float/freeplay at the
bearings, check the circlips and the various shafts or do I have to take the
box(es) apart to assess them.  (Assuming the gears are in good shape).  If the
box needs rebuilding, I'd rather take it to the local british vehicle shop
(the guy drives a red SII) and have it done, but I'd rather just check it
myself and put in it in if there are no problems.

Nate 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 11:14:05 -0800
From: Dave Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Not a towing story

Last year I spent about two weeks taking lots of parts off the drivers
side of my 88 Land Rover.  I was sure a colony of bees had somehow made
a nest in the vehicle but I couldn't find it.  It wasn't there when the
vehicle was stopped but there were some bees and wasps near the vehicle,
enough to convince me I was on the right track.  I finally decided the
only place I hadn't looked was inside the frame but of course I couldn't
get at it.  The noise always got worse when I was bumping along the
highway and I reasoned that the vibration must be upsetting them.  I was
about to take the vehicle to the local insect control place where they
put trailer shipments in for fumigation when I decided to stick my head
outside while driving to see if I could see any insects flying out as I
drove.  As soon as I opened the window the buzzing stopped.  I opened
and closed the window a few times and each time it stopped like they
thought I was watching them. Red faced by the third or forth time I
found the problem.  In winter I often scotch tape the slit between the
two sliding glasses.  This year I hadn't removed all the tape and a
little piece was stuck between the two panes of glass.  Acting like a
reed, it would "play" bee sounds as soon as the wind from the moving
vehicle caught it.  Now as I said in my previous posting about door
sound proofing you know why I put sound deadening stuff in the doors.
It was part of my attempt to stop the bee buzz
Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 09:35:38 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: paint removing

James Wolf wrote:

> I have had good luck using paint stripper(don't remember the name got it at
> Big Lots) and 0000 steel wool. This grade doesn't scratch the AL.and will
> even leave the original finish, if you are careful. Wear all protective
> gear including long sleeves and if possible a full face shield(Big Lots for
> the face shield).

2 Cautions:

1) Be certain to keep the stripper off the galvanizing.  It will discolor it it
left to
sit for long.

2) Be certain to wash/remove all traces of stripping residue especially steel
wool
fragments.  They will lead to fake rust spots in the paint if left.

cheers

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 12:54:41 -0500 (EST)
From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Subject: Re: Land Rover Ambulance

>WE are looking to purchase a 1967 LR ambulance to convert into a simple
>camper.  Has anyone out there had experience with the LR ambulance?  Any
>imput would be helpful.  thanks, Jim

Contact Quintin Aspen in the D.C. area.   I think he is at QROVER@aol.com
he had one for sale that last time I spoke with him.

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
Pittsburgh, Pa.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 00:59:15 +0700 (ICT)
From: "John M. Baker" <jbaker@ksc8.th.com>
Subject: Installing Dist/Cam Gear

Have another technical question here concerning the dist/cam gear and
engine timing. Hope I am not disturbing any list subscribers with a
technical question of this sort:)

I have a 109 Station Wagon (1976) with the 2.25 petrol engine. I have the
type of timing pointer which has three points, a gap, and then another
point (as pictured on page 3.12 of the Haynes Service and Repair Manual).
Under the installation procedure on pages 1.15 and 1.16 another timing
point with three evenly spaced pointers is shown. Question is as follows:
The Haynes book is really confusing as to where to line up the mark on the
crankshaft pulley with which point on the timing pointer. In different
sections it says use different pointers depending on the fuel you are
using, in another it says it is dependent on the octane of fuel you are
using, and
in yet another it talks about LRs equipped with pollution control
equipment! For starters, I have no pollution control equipment (Thailand).
I am also not sure if I have an 8:1 or 7:1 head. I would appreciate any
advice on which pointer I should line up with the pulley mark when
installing the dist/cam gear. I should mention that I will probably be
using 88 plus octane no lead fuel over here. Thanks in advance for any
help!

One more thing, I am now an expert on installing the dist/cam gear getting
the hole to line up with the grub screw! Several tips I learned the hard
way:

1. It is possible to drive the assembly in too deep and the hole in the
bush will be too low for the grub screw. Knock it down slowly and feel for
the hole with a small implement of some sort inserted through the grub
screw hole.

2. If the bush is too tight in the bore you will never get it up again
(the dist/cam gear assembly that is) if
you make a mistake, and will have to remove the pan and oil pump to knock
it back out. My original unit was a good slip fit, my new replacement was
not. I used some very fine emery paper to smooth it down a bit to where it
slipped in but did not move from side to side, which makes lining up the
hole easier.

3. Inserting a wooden dowel into the shaft of the dist/cam gear allows you
to easily remove it if you don't line the hole up right, which will almost
certainly be the case a number of times, unless you are much luckier or
smarter than I am! Once the grub screw is in you can wiggle the stick out.

4. If for any reason you decide to try to remove the c-clip inside, it
will probably break (don't even ask why I know this!)

Regards,

John Baker
Bangkok

------------------------------

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Subject: Re: Installing Dist/Cam Gear
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 18:11:57 -0700

John,

When intalling a new block in my SIII 88 I had the same quandry regarding
the TDC or Timing "hash marks" I spoke with my mechanic in CO Srings and he
advised me to use the longest of the indicators to line up with the hash
mark on the fly wheel. His feeling being that regardless of 8:1 or 7:1 it
would allow me to install the dist. at as close to TDC one can get woithout
pulling sparkplugs and give me enough lee-way to then later adjust the
timing into line.

For more prcise measure; Pull the #1 plug and place your finger over the
hole. While your assistant/wife/sucker buddy rotates the engine with the
hand crank, feel for the push of air preasure as the #1 piston comes to
TDC. this will then align with the location you need both the indicator and
hash mark, and the dist. gear.

Good Luck

John Wood

----------
> From: John M. Baker <jbaker@ksc8.th.com>
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: Installing Dist/Cam Gear
> Date: Sunday, January 25, 1998 10:59 AM
> Have another technical question here concerning the dist/cam gear and

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
> point with three evenly spaced pointers is shown. Question is as follows:
> The Haynes book is really confusing as to where to line up the mark on
the
> crankshaft pulley with which point on the timing pointer. In different
> sections it says use different pointers depending on the fuel you are
> using, in another it says it is dependent on the octane of fuel you are
> using, and
> in yet another it talks about LRs equipped with pollution control
> equipment! For starters, I have no pollution control equipment
(Thailand).
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
> help!
> One more thing, I am now an expert on installing the dist/cam gear
getting
> the hole to line up with the grub screw! Several tips I learned the hard
> way:
> 1. It is possible to drive the assembly in too deep and the hole in the
> bush will be too low for the grub screw. Knock it down slowly and feel
> in yet another it talks about LRs equipped with pollution control
for
> the hole with a small implement of some sort inserted through the grub
> screw hole.
> 2. If the bush is too tight in the bore you will never get it up again
> (the dist/cam gear assembly that is) if
> you make a mistake, and will have to remove the pan and oil pump to knock
> it back out. My original unit was a good slip fit, my new replacement was
> not. I used some very fine emery paper to smooth it down a bit to where
> I am also not sure if I have an 8:1 or 7:1 head. I would appreciate any
it
> slipped in but did not move from side to side, which makes lining up the
> hole easier.
> 3. Inserting a wooden dowel into the shaft of the dist/cam gear allows
> (the dist/cam gear assembly that is) if
you
> to easily remove it if you don't line the hole up right, which will
almost
> certainly be the case a number of times, unless you are much luckier or
> smarter than I am! Once the grub screw is in you can wiggle the stick
out.
> 4. If for any reason you decide to try to remove the c-clip inside, it
> will probably break (don't even ask why I know this!)
> Regards,
> John Baker
> Bangkok
> it back out. My original unit was a good slip fit, my new replacement was
> not. I used some very fine emery paper to smooth it down a bit to where
> I am also not sure if I have an 8:1 or 7:1 head. I would appreciate any
> advice on which pointer I should line up with the pulley mark when

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 11:20:47 -0800
From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Subject: re: Stripping off paint

Subject: Re: Stripping off paint
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 98 16:49:35 -0800
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>

>I was interested in a quicker way to take the 3 layers of paint off my Series
;>IIA. I am currently working on the rear tub section. I am currently
using
>chemicals to get this done. Has anyone used plastic media blasting to
;>accomplish this. I restored a steel Vespa body and it worked well. This
could
>be disaster for aluminum or is it??
;>Please don't suggest another stripper as I have tried several.

There are strippers and there are strippers.  I have used chemical
strippers to take the paint and primer off aircraft, and they are VERY
effective.  However, they also are VERY caustic and will eat holes in your
skin pretty quick.  I can't remember the brand or name of the stripper we
used on the planes, but it might have been made by Chevron as it was in a
blue 55 gallon lined drum.  The solvent we used was in a similar drum and
it definitely was made by Chevron.  This was in the mid-1970s, so the
stripper may no longer be available due to enviromental requirements, or it
may have to be ordered using a commercial permit of some sort.  If you are
near a major aircraft servicing facility that repaints commercial airliners
you might ask them what they use to remove the original paint.  I'm sure
you will find it much more effective than the strippers available in
hardware stores.

I would not recommend any sort of sand or bead blasting as the aluminum
alloy used on Land Rovers is pretty thin and the blasting could weaken its
temper.

________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 13:25:19 -0800
From: Dave Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Holes in the parcel shelf

Those three elongated holes in the passenger side parcel shelf are for
mounting the steering wheel support piece when you have right hand
drive.  They are on the left as well but being used.  Another set of
holes I have wondered about on the IIA are the ones drilled out just
below the windshield and then nicely filled with chrome plugs.  Did Land
Rover do this just in case you wanted to add a switch or two, or was
there a "real" OEM part that fit into those holes.  I notice on the
frame that the IIA is already equipped for the steering damper, but I
have never seen one fitted from the factory, at least in Canada.  I will
eventually put one on, but can someone with one let me know if they made
enough difference to really spend the money?  Does anyone have a set of
wire baskets for the headlights for sale cheap?  This is another piece
of kit that really isn't worth what they want for them.
Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 16:20:39 EST
Subject: Re:  Re: Land Rover Ambulance

In a message dated 1/25/98 12:56:42 PM, you wrote:

>Contact Quintin Aspen in the D.C. area.   I think he is at QROVER@aol.com
>he had one for sale that last time I spoke with him.

Try QROVER80@aol.com, that was the last e-mail address I had for him.

pat
93  110

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 16:31:33 -0500
From: Steve Rochna <75347.452@compuserve.com>
Subject: Unsubscribing

Does anybody know how I can unsubscribe one e-mail address from another
address?

Thanks Steve

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 16:28:32 EST
Subject: Steering Dampers

In a message dated 1/25/98 2:26:04 PM, you wrote:

>I notice on the
>frame that the IIA is already equipped for the steering damper, but I
>have never seen one fitted from the factory, at least in Canada.  I will
>eventually put one on, but can someone with one let me know if they made
>enough difference to really spend the money?

I've noticed an improvement in any vehicle that came without one and that I've
put one in, as well as a tremendous difference when an old, worn one was
replaced.

The nice thing about putting one on, or replacing the worn one is that you
feel the effect immediately and all the time while driving.

Pat
93  110

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 18:11:00 -0500
From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: Re: Unsubscribing

At 04:31 PM 1/25/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Does anybody know how I can unsubscribe one e-mail address from another
>address?
>Thanks Steve

If BillC doesn't respond, email me the address to be killed and I'll do it
for you.

Mike Johnson
'74 SIII 88 (Chester) 
johnsonm@borg.com
http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 00:44:16 +0100
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Steering Dampers

I agree - even though 2 of my SIII's (1972 and 1976) were born without,
the difference in the dampened SIII 88 from 1979 is noticeable - I will
retrofit the other two this year.

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 18:40:00 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: paint removing

Using *any* grade of steel wool on AL is never a good idea. It always leaves
microscopic bits of FE, which will, given time and exposure to other
chemicals, including O2, not be so microscopic anymore. Maybe get some brass
wool?!?
Cheers!!
John Dillingham
near Canton, GA
KF4NAS
LROA #1095
SoLaRoS #23
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 19:05:17 -0500 (EST)
From: nickf@co.wayne.in.us (Nick Fankhauser)
Subject: David Scheidt's wiring woes

Hi ho folks-

I promised David Scheidt that I would measure the resistance on a working
fuel guage sender several weeks ago, and then promptly forgot. When I
noticed the recent post from Dave about needing a wiring diagram, I was
stricken with guilt, and as an act of penance, I scanned the appropriate
diagram. It may be of use to others as well- it can be found at:

http://www.infocom.com/~nickf/rover/

Oh yeah- that resistance you needed- At full, the resistance is 80 ohms. At
empty it is 0 ohms. It appears to be linear (ie: at half it is 40 ohms.) It
looks to me like a situation where it would be easy to get a poor ground or
corroded sweeper on the potentiometer. I would try cleaning  everything with
contact cleaner first. (But make sure the contact cleaner doesn't melt the
old enamel on the wire coil first!)

-NickF
___________________________________________________________________
Nick Fankhauser      | http://www.co.wayne.in.us/wayneco
nickf@co.wayne.in.us | http://www.infocom.com/~nickf

------------------------------

From: GcdoAK <GcdoAK@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 19:22:31 EST
Subject: Re: Ultimate towing story

I almost stopped breathing I was laughing sooooo hard.

Great story!

Jon

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 19:35:14 -0500
From: Winn Bearden <wbearden@americus.net>
Subject: Re: Land Rover Ambulance

Russ Wilson wrote:
   >WE are looking to purchase a 1967 LR ambulance to convert into a simple

> >camper.  Has anyone out there had experience with the LR ambulance?  Any
> >imput would be helpful.  thanks, Jim

> Know a guy in Raleigh who has one for sale.

 --
Winn Bearden
P.O. Box 464
Americus, GA 31709
912-924-6513 (H)
912-928-4984 (CELL)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 21:23:46 -0500 (EST)
From: Nick Fankhauser <nickf@co.wayne.in.us>
Subject: Dave's wiring again (OOOPPSS!)

Hmmmm....

well, erm, ... I checked that diagram that I scanned and posted just to make
sure it looked OK through my browser, and noticed one thing missing from it-
the turn signals that Dave was interested in fixing. It seems that turn
signals are one of those fancy add-on options not covered in the standard
owners manual...
So... with downcast eyes and heavy heart, I stumbled home to consult the
shop manual. 

>From the looks of the shop manual, "Flashers" weren't standard until the
bugeyes came out. I presume that the NAS rovers had them earlier, but it
wasn't noted in the shop manual. I believe that the diagram for a negative
ground bugeye is the closest match, and the turn signal circuit matches my
'61 pretty well, so wait until late Monday and try that page again. By then
I should have the second diagram scanned and posted.

-NickF

Nick Fankhauser           |Wayne County Information Systems Department
NickF@co.wayne.in.us      |     http://www.co.wayne.in.us/wayneco
http://www.infocom.com/~nickf

Context info for mailing list posts:
Indiana USA-61 Series IIa-72 LAPD 850-83 245 K-Jet

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 23:48:44 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Steering Dampers

SPYDERS wrote:
> In a message dated 1/25/98 2:26:04 PM, you wrote:
> >I notice on the
> >frame that the IIA is already equipped for the steering damper, but I
> >have never seen one fitted from the factory, at least in Canada.  I will
> >eventually put one on, but can someone with one let me know if they made
> >enough difference to really spend the money?

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
> Pat
> 93  110

So what is the effect? Is it more noticable on the pavement or on the 
trail? In my part of the country there is alot of rock crawling, and some 
of the back trails are all rubble, old mining roads etc. How about 
"washboard roads" which seem to be what the road crews around here spent 
alot of time learning how to do ;-)

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258 <CIrvin1258@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 22:16:15 EST
Subject: Re: paint removing

I worked at a place at Compton Airport when I was in junior high/high school,
that restored WW-2 planes. If I recall correctly, the stuff we used to strip
paint, was called StripRite. We usually bought it in 5 gallon drums, and it
ran about $50.00.

Good stuff - it even ate asphalt while you watched! It was a bit tough on the
hands, unless/until you were used to it.

Charles

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 22:29:31 -0500 (EST)
From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Subject: Re: Land Rover Ambulance

The major is eating messages again.  I am NOT looking for an ambulance.  I
was trying to foward Quintin's address ( QROVER80@aol.com) to someone who
was....The major mangled someones response so that it looked as if I was
looking for another project.  No thanks, two is plenty.

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
Pittsburgh, Pa.

------------------------------

From: caloccia@senie.com
Date: 26 Jan 1998 04:09:35 -0000
Subject: unsubscribing from a 'new' or changed address/username

unsubscribeing

send mail to majordomo@land-rover.tema.net
send a mail to 'majordomo@land-rover.team.net'
with the text

unsubscribe LIST OLDNAME

like
unsubscribe lro-digest user@host.com

Instead of processing it immediately, the list processor will kick
the request back to the list administrator, who can than approve it.

which I usually do...

Cheers,
 -B

------------------------------

From: desert-rat@isat.com (Roy Mankins)
Subject: paint removal
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 21:30:44 -0800
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ]
	charset="iso-8859-1"

has anyone used crushed walnut shells.  they are supposed to be much =
less abrasive than sand or plastic media.  I am very interested as i am =
doing a restoration on a series 3 frame up

------=_NextPart_000_002D_01BD29D8.7EABB960
	[ Original post was HTML ]
	charset="iso-8859-1"

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>has anyone used crushed walnut =
shells.&nbsp;
they are supposed to be much less abrasive than sand or plastic =
media.&nbsp; I
am very interested as i am doing a restoration on a series 3 frame
up</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_002D_01BD29D8.7EABB960--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 09:50:26 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re:  Ultimate towing story

>Everyone must have seen the story, and besides lro-muncher would digest the
>whole thing for dinner...
>[snip]
>>Steve Fullwood
>Steve,
Be assured,that's the *only* time your Rover will pass anything on the
road.......
cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 10:16:12 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: read me?  Re: Mr. AH SO, Chinese Landy man.

.  I think Mike Rooth makes a lot of sense in his post below.  We all use
squelch, just to varying degrees.  :)  I will put words in his mouth and
>say that of course there are somethings you shouldn't ignore.

Thank you kindly,sir:-)
I wouldnt ignore the offer of a free pint..........

You know,over here we get Irish jokes.Like you can tell a genuine
Irish brewed Guinness bottle because its got "Open Other End" on the
bottom.Half the time,the Irish dream them up themselves.My ex-boss,
now retired,went to Eire on holiday and to see some friends.The
friends were having difficulty getting an exhaust system for their
car and asked him if he'd take one over.So he got one and tied it
to his roofrack.The Irish customs man,on his arrival,asked him the
purpose of his visit,to which he replied "Holiday".So the customs
bloke,with clipboard,said"Very good sorr.Two people,one car...
*upsoide down*".See?
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: "Huub Pennings" <HPS@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 11:13:00 +0100
Subject:       Re:Minerva!!!!!!!!

Last Friday I visited a small firm in Begium which had aprox. 7 
Minerva's for sale. Prices were dfl 7000,- = 3500US$ they also sold 
parts for these vehicles. Anyone interested?
Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

------------------------------

  END OF * LIST DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 32 lines 1351 [forwarded 135 whitespace 0]
 Output: lines 1036 [content 834  forwarded 109 (cut  26) whitespace 0]

Back	Forward
Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.