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Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 06:02:37 -0600
From: nlamon1@tiger.lsuiss.ocs.lsu.edu
Subject: WANTED: SII-A Bulkhead: straight, rebuildable

I am looking for a SII-A Bulkhead to put into "as new" condition then,
down the road, swap for the one I have.  

Do you have a SII-A Bulkhead?  The Upper Section must be free of bondo and
internal rusting, but the Lower Section can have the "usual" rust
problems, just so long as it is factory straight.   I'm located in south
Louisiana (U.S.A.), so the closer you are to me the better, as shipping
costs add up fast.

If you have one, or know of one's location, please contact me via e-mail

Thanks

Neil
-- 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 13:29:35 +0100 (MET)
From: Terje Krogdahl <tekr@nextel.no>
Subject: Re: (Fwd) Camel Trophy participation

On Wed, 21 Jan 1998, T. F. Mills wrote:

> Please reply to vaidotas@cc.hut.fi as well as to the list.  I get 
> this question a lot.  Is there a list of CT national contacts 
> somewhere?  This one is from Finland.  TIA.

Well, here in Norway all dealers of CT products (clothes,boots,
watches etc) are supposed to have application forms for the event.
But only when people may apply. I think mostly in the summer or
early autumn. The Norwegian trials take place on January 31, so
if the dates are similar in Finland he is too late for this year.

Also, take a look at www.wbi.se.

Terje Krogdahl
Norwegian Land Rover Club
www.land.rover.no
1972 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 08:54:40 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Wiper Motor Problems

Just to add a little more confusion my 68 NADA SW has a 2 speed square
wiper motor and when last used it worked on both speeds but my 68  88
had the 2 separate units that were usually hand opperated!
Muddy has a round 2 speed wiper as she is mostly series III.
      John and Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 08:09:56 -0500 (EST)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re: Best source of brake parts for Canada?

>Hi,
>Where do Canadian owners of Series IIA vehicles get their
>brake parts?  I have to do a substantial brake job on
>mine in the Spring, and need to acquire a bunch of parts.
>I know of Atlantic British Parts of Canada Ltd, in 
>Waterloo Quebec, but am wondering if there exists an 
>alternative supplier of brake parts in Canada.  I expect
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 21 lines)]
>Robert St-Louis -- OTTAWA/CANADA -- '68 IIA SWB LR -- 
>  kholling@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca.NOSPAM (remove NOSPAM when replying)

When I was doing up the brakes on my 88 I bought the flex lines from Mini
Man in Ottawa (didn't check the prices anywhere else at the time), steel
lines came from RN (They are very cheap even with the exchange, you could
buy many before equaling the price of a double flaring tool), and the wheel
cylinders from AB in Mechanicsville (Again I found the price on these to be
extreamly good compared to buying cylinders for an antique NA built
vehicle). I have not yet bought shoes or drums but for shoes I would check
into getting them re-lined (There is a guy in Cornwall who does this for
antique and odd ball applications. I have never checked the price of
anything at AB Canada, but I have checked for things at Pauls Safari in
Niagra and found them to be on the expensive side. Ordering through the club
in a bulk order from England is also a great way to save money!!! (Talk to
Dixon about the next order).

Keith
1961 Series II 88"
Ottawa

------------------------------

From: reynoldsg@tfn.com
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 08:25:13 -0500
Subject: Re: No Help for Chinese LR Owner

DoctorMudd <DoctorMudd@aol.com> wrote:

> Ah, Mr. Chinese LR Owner, you fall for Imperialist rip off too many 
> time. Your car not real. It is impostor of highest order and 
> deserves to be sentenced to maximum punishment for try to copy 
> original "Green Rover". You have lemon-car, which can be fix by 
> lemon-law; but china have no law at all so you out of luck.

<additional drivel snipped>

Posts like this are completely inappropriate.  Would you say what you 
wrote to the Chinese LR Owner in person?  I don't think so.  Next time 
connect your brain to your fingers before you send a post to the list!

Jeff Reynolds
1995 Beluga Black Discovery
Rovers North Roof Rack
4 Hella Rallye 4000's
1 Hella Work Light

------------------------------

From: "Chris Dillard"<cdillard@Aholdusa.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 08:30:51 -0500
Subject: Re: No Help for Chinese LR Owner

But you have to admit it was good for a laugh!!  No harm done I'm sure

Cheers
Chris
91 RR County SWB (w/ a few extra's)
G-ville SC
  __ __ __
 |__|__|__|
//__|__|__\___
\__ - ____ - _|}
   (_)    (_)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 14:12:15 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: No Help for Chinese LR Owner

>> Ah, Mr. Chinese LR Owner, you fall for Imperialist rip off too many
>> time.  Would you say what you
>wrote to the Chinese LR Owner in person?
He probably wouldnt say it to Land Rover,either.Doesnt make it any
less funny,though.
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Subject: Re: US engines in LRs
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 98 06:34:49 -0800
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>

;>I've been following the list for some time to gather info on a 
conversion
;>for my '72 S3 88. I'm in Boston and would like to locate owners with 
similar
;>(or not) conversions.
;>My stock 2.25 is getting tired and a cheaper, readily available, more
;>powerful American motor is in order. I need better highway speeds, EFI 
piece
;>of mind and generally more grunt with minimal fuss and NO outward body
;>change. My off-roading is minimal but I don't want something totally 
inept.
;>My options are now limited to the following:
;>
;>...motor...........................trans............adaptor
;>
;>1. Chevy 4-cyl (Iron Duke type)....stock............Scotty
;>2. Chevy 4-cyl (Iron Duke type)....Chevy 5-spd........Timm Cooper?
;>3. Ford Explorer 4.0LV6............stock.............Steve Parker
;>4. Ford Explorer 4.0L V6.........Ford 5-spd...........???
;>5. Chevy V6....................stock/Chevy 5-spd......???

6. Ford 289/302 V8 .........Borg Warner T18/T19 .......Timm Cooper

Timm Cooper in Oregon, is playing some interesting games.  One problem 
with conversions is that the LR transmission is not very strong and 
doesn't last very long if you put much power in front of it. Folk wisdom 
is to keep it below about 150 HP. Tim is coming up with transmission to 
transfer case adaptors.  This allows the use of a proven heavy duty truck 
engine coupled to a heavy duty transmission then the LR transfer case 
which is very heavy duty.  The Borg Warner T18 and T19 transmissions are 
truck fourspeeds with a grany low gear.  First gear is much lower than 
LR's first.  This gives you a much better rock crawling gear.
With his adaptor, the gear shift lever stays in the stock location.  You 
do not need to cut the firewall for this conversion.

Timm also suggests that a Salisbury rear end be fitted whenever the power 
is raised in a Land Rover.

Timm Cooper 503-233-5913.  He is moving soon so the number may not be 
good much longer.  He is not on the net.

>Thoughts:
>1. Cheap, good power (up to 110hp I think), drop in installation. The
>adaptor is however $600 but it's a proven design. Concern: is it powerful
>enough for towing possibly to be done later on? 
>2. I'd rather fit this tranny for piece of mind and to remove my Fairey OD
>now fitted as this is a weak link anyway. Problem: an adapter for the

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 40 lines)]
>'72 S3 88
>Boston, MA  USA

TeriAnn Wakeman 
Santa Cruz, California

NOTE NEW E-MAIL ADDRESS twakeman@cruzers.com

------------------------------

From: Lodelane <Lodelane@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 09:34:03 EST
Subject: Re: Series 3 coonversions

Art,

You might want to get in touch with Robert Davis ((757) 421-3504) in
Chesapeake, VA.  He puts Mercruiser engines into Series vehicles using EFI
ignitions.  Clean, quality installation.  Drove a 109 this past weekend.
Performance was close to a Stage I V8!!!!!  Easily ran 70 +/- MPH (actual -
not speedo indicated) with stock transmission/transfer w/o overdrive.  Mileage
estimated at about 20-22 MPG, maybe more if you keep your foot out of it.  8^)
Uses standard Rover gear train.  Robert has a "road" cam, engine mount, and
transmission adapter made up.  Four cylinder requires a remote oil filter
because of where the filter outlet is on the Mercruiser block.  All in all, a
VERY, VERY viable alternative to other non-Rover conversions.

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

From: "Chris Dillard"<cdillard@Aholdusa.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 09:50:39 -0500
Subject: Ramsey Winches

Rec'd a brochure from Ramsey winches and was just curious if anyone on the
list had any direct experience with on of these units and how difficult/ or
not difficult installation was. The price seems to be right. the REP8000
(800lb winch w/controller, roller fairlead etc) around $399.  Just curious
for any experience someone may have. (good or bad)  SORRY FOR DOUBLE
POSTING!! just wanted to hit as many as possible.
Thanks ahead of time!

Cheers,

Chris
91 RR County SWB (w/ a few extra's)
G-ville SC
  __ __ __
 |__|__|__|
//__|__|__\___
\__ - ____ - _|}
   (_)    (_)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 11:34:10 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Ramsey Winches

I had an REP 8000 on my Rover for a short time it was complete junk.
It very slow and went through relays and brushes like there was no
tomorrow. In case any one asks I had lots of battery and a good
alternator ans had previously been useing a Warn 8274 with the same set
up with very few problems. I wouldn't take one as gift unless I needed a
boat anchor.
    John and Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 08:00:03 -0800
From: Eric Russell <erussell@sd45.bc.ca>
Subject: Help for Chinese RR Owner

	The most help for the Chinese Range Rover/Land Rover owner came
from the Rover CAR list.  Now THAT tells me something.

Eric

end
-
Eric Russell:  erussell@sd45.bc.ca
* Grade 6 Teacher at Ridgeview Elementary School,
        West Vancouver, B.C.
Web site: http://www.sd45.bc.ca/sd45/ridgeview/ridgview.html
* Secretary of The Rover Car Club of Canada
* Manager of the RoverNet (Mailing List)
rovernet@ganglion.anes.med.umich.edu

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 11:20:39 -0500
From: Keith Mohlenhoff <krm@nj.paradyne.com>
Subject: Out of Line engine/tranny

Hello;

My engine/tranny in my SWB is not perpendicular with the chassis.
The chassis is square and I tried to realign the engine/tranny by
changing the 4 mounts and trying to shift it into the correct alignment.
It is still not in line. 

Anything else to try? I'm at a loss. 

Also is a 3 ton pintle hitch a good recovery point for a LWB?

Thanks
Keith R. Mohlenhoff
63 IIA 5 door 2.25D
71 IIA 3 door 2.25P

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 10:24:51 -0600
From: "\"Mr. Mike\" Passaretti" <passaretti@sol.med.ge.com>
Subject: Towing with an 88"

OK, so a serious question.  A friend of mine tells me that if
I want to tow my TR-4 (trailered) behind anything I should
look for a longer wheelbase than his D90 has because (in his
words) his trailer often ends up "wagging the dog" and he
thinks it's a function of the wheelbase of the tow vehicle and
the distance between the hitch attachment and the trailer
wheels.  Any comments from the veterans out there with SWB
series tow vehicles?
							-MM

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Towing with an 88"
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 08:38:37 -0800 (PST)
From: "Michael Fredette" <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>

 
 OK, so a serious question.  A friend of mine tells me that if
 I want to tow my TR-4 (trailered) behind anything I should
 look for a longer wheelbase than his D90 has because (in his
 words) his trailer often ends up "wagging the dog" and he
 thinks it's a function of the wheelbase of the tow vehicle and
 the distance between the hitch attachment and the trailer
 wheels.  Any comments from the veterans out there with SWB
 series tow vehicles?

     Your friends' fears are groundless. I used my 94 D90 to go get
  my 101FC when I bought it. I used a huge (18ft) tandem axle trailer
  and drove the 101 up on it, lashed it down, towed it home almost 300
  miles. Up and down the mtn passes from the Southern Oregon mountains
  back to Portland. The D90 never missed a beat, though the gas mileage
  went down the toilet to about 7-8 MPG. No overheating, no handling 
  problems, no braking problems. And I'm sure the 101 weighs somewhat
  more than a TR4. 

Rgds
Mike Fredette

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 98 11:24:40 EST
Subject: Re: Warn Winch Cable  (USA)

Hi All, I have a question about replacing the cable on a very old warn
winch(circa1959). the model number is 8404 . I called Warn and they said that
it called for a 150ft cable(is this necessary?) Can I use a Any 5/16'' cable? 
Thanks in Advance, 
Rick

Rick,
 try Nebraska Surplus Center, in Lincoln Nebraska. I can get you the number 
but you can just call 18005551212 and get it there. I got my cable form 
them for 31 cents/ft. It is 5/16" aircraft cable.
Don't use just any 5/16 cable, there are all different types.
Cheers
Dave

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 16:50:01 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Towing with an 88"

  A friend of mine tells me that if
I want to tow my TR-4 (trailered) behind anything I should
>look for a longer wheelbase than his D90 has
  Any comments from the veterans out there with SWB
>series tow vehicles?
Sounds like bullshit to me,but there again,if he's talking from experience..
Perhaps he expected to be able to go as fast as he does without a trailer.
I've towed a Mk1 Cortina on a trailer(actually,I've towed two,but not
both at the same time:-)) no worries.SWB vehicles are generally used as tugs
over here.And if my old 11A 88" can do the bizniss I would have expected
a 90 to be even better.A lot of farmers trail stock to market with them.
Perhaps he had a duff trailer,or didnt get the load far enough forward
to load the towbar.Whatever,dont worry about it.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Subject: Re: No Help for Chinese LR Owner
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 08:52:30 -0800 (PST)
From: "Michael Fredette" <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>

 Ah, Mr. Chinese LR Owner, you fall for Imperialist rip off too many 
 time. Your car not real. It is impostor of highest order and 
 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 6 lines)]
 lemon-law; but china have no law at all so you out of luck.
<additional drivel snipped>
 
 Posts like this are completely inappropriate.  Would you say what you 
 wrote to the Chinese LR Owner in person?  I don't think so.  Next time 
 connect your brain to your fingers before you send a post to the list!
 
 Jeff Reynolds

     God, you sniveling winer, just grow a thicker skin, and a sense of
  humor while your at it. I've got my fingers connected to my brain, and one
  of them is waiving at you right now. The original post was FUNNY, quit
  being such a spineless, politically correct, cowardly wimp.

Warmest regards

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 10:47:58 -0600
From: mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marcus Tooze)
Subject: Re: Towing with an 88"

>  OK, so a serious question.  A friend of mine tells me that if
>  I want to tow my TR-4 (trailered) behind anything I should
>  look for a longer wheelbase than his D90 has because (in his
>  words) his trailer often ends up "wagging the dog" and he
>  thinks it's a function of the wheelbase of the tow vehicle and
>  the distance between the hitch attachment and the trailer
>  wheels.  Any comments from the veterans out there with SWB
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>  wheels.  Any comments from the veterans out there with SWB
>  series tow vehicles?

Shouldn't be a problem if the trailer is loaded correctly. Trailer brakes
would be nice, but a TR4 isn't that heavy.

Marcus

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 11:48:52 EST
Subject: Re: Towing with an 88"

Partially correct.
The things to consider in a tow vehicle are weight, length, width, gearing and
brakes.
These should be considered in relation to what is being towed.
Ideally, the tow vehicle is as long as the distance from the hitch to the
axles of the trailer.  
Additionally, if the trailer is significantly heavier than the tow vehicle,
slightly longer and wider will help.

The tranny has to be up to the task --frequently tow vehicles have a separate
cooler (radiator) for the transmission fluid.  Very important for going uphill

Brakes have to be in top condition. VERY important for going DOWNhill

I don't know the length or weight of a TR4, but if it is close to the same as
the D90, you can tow it safely.  (Heck, put 2 1200 lb thoroughbreds in a horse
trailer and you've got some serious weight--I see pics of D90's pulling
those--of course horse trailers have brakes, the TR4 won't when towing).  Just
go slow, no sudden movements and you should be fine

Nate

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 09:15:15 -0800
From: Michael Slade <slade@imagina.com>
Subject: Re: Towing with an 88"

I think another factor would be the tongue weight.  I had a friend who was
trailering a Citroen DS 21 from Portland to Utah, had it loaded improperly
with not enough weight on the tongue and he ended up straddling the median
divider with his RR and the flatbed u-haul trailer near Grants Pass in S.
Oregon.

Apparently the trailer was 'wagging the dog' to such an extreme that the
fender flares from the trailer actually pushed in the passenger side door
(imagine that).

Anyway, the RR was recoverable, the Citroen was none the worse for wear,
and the trailer was fine.  Funny thing was another RR passed after the
traffic was slowed down and my friend said the drivers jaw was on the floor
as he drove past.

Just be careful and don't do anything stupid.  If you're not familiar with
towing trailers, take a brief primer.

My .02 cents.

Michael Slade
'90 RR
Portland, OR

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 09:18:11 -0800
From: Michael Slade <slade@imagina.com>
Subject: Re: Wiper Motor Problems

TeriAnn writes...

>Around '69ish they started installing the round bodied dual speed motore
>in North American spec LRs.
>TeriAnn Wakeman
>Santa Cruz, California
>NOTE NEW E-MAIL ADDRESS twakeman@cruzers.com

That's what I was hoping for when I got my '70 109 from Canada.  It only
had single speed wipers, but was kind of an odd-ball vehicle and it might
have been changed over the years.

YMMV,

Michael Slade
'90 RR
Portland, OR

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 18:00:10 +0000
From: Lenny Warren <lwarren@zetnet.co.uk>
Subject: burning oil??

Hi there,

My ser 3 with 5 bearing 2.25 diesel was burning oil on the over-run. Looked
like valve stem oil seals, so have just had them done. Thing is, the oil is
still there. According to my L-R mechanic, who is a franchised L-R dealer
mechanic, says that there is a bit of wear at the top of the bore, like the
bore is belled out at the top on cylinder no. 2. He also says that the
injectors need re-calibrated. Surely dodgy injectors would give black
smoke?? Anyway, there is a small amount of black smoke on acceleration, but
not excessive. It'll still do 55mph in overdrive with a bit in reserve. (I
don't want to push it more than that!)

So.... do you reckon the burning oil is coming up through the bore? Could
anything else cause it? I've checked the rocker cover breather and the oil
bath, both ok!

Maybe a 10 thou overbore needed???

Lenny

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 17:51:21 +0000
From: Lenny Warren <lwarren@zetnet.co.uk>
Subject: Grease for FWH's

Hi there,

I've just got a service kit for my Fairey FWH's. In the instructions it
says to coat the actuator with Rocol MTS 1000 grease, or a molybdenum
disulphide bearing grease. My local motor factors just stare when I ask for
it??

Any thoughts where to get it in the UK, or can I use something else???

Ta,

Lenny

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 98 13:10:13 EST
Subject: Re: Transfer Case

> The other day I was underneath and turned the transfer shaft flange (prop 
>shaft is not yet hooked up) and there was about 1/2 inch of slack either 
>way before I could feel it engage anything inside.

This is perefectly normal.
That's it!

Later
DaveB.

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 98 13:24:00 EST
Subject: Re: Grease for FWH's

> molybdenum
>disulphide bearing grease. My local motor factors just stare when I ask for
>it??

really? you'd think they would know...it's CV joint grease.
wunnerful stuff.

later
DaveB.

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 13:23:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Grease for FWH's

There's a white grease used in CV joints on automobiles that's supposedly a
very high-pressure moly. Charlie at RN informed me of this stuff,
suggesting that I use it as a substitute for the moly coating on the input
side of a Fairey overdrive I'd overhauled.

My only caveat is to be careful with this stuff - it's sticky, and it gets
everywhere.....

                    AJR/Mr. Churchill

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 13:35:28 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Greasing Lenny's diesel smoke...

Dood, you can find molybdenum disulphide grease all over the place. 
Usually it comes in tubes for grease guns. If you get dopey stares when 
you ask for it, you are obviously conversing with morons. Tell them it's 
the black kind, and maybe they'll get a clue.
As for your diesel troubles, they don't sound like much of a worry. If 
you can get the wheezer up to 55, that's pretty good. Don't fret about 
winding it out, as there is a built-in rev limiter that will end the fun 
at about 4500 (I think). Keep it floored all the time. I would recommend 
that you get at least a hundred thousand on the odo before tearing the 
guts out. I doubt that the engine has ovalled the bores. 
A sure sign that you need work is when you can no longer see traffic in 
your rear-view mirror due to the smoke. Til then, just drive it.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 12:45:16 -0800
From: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Subject: Re: Grease for FWH's

Lenny Warren wrote:
> Hi there,
> I've just got a service kit for my Fairey FWH's. In the instructions it
> says to coat the actuator with Rocol MTS 1000 grease, or a molybdenum
> disulphide bearing grease. My local motor factors just stare when I ask for
> it??

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
> Ta,
> Lenny
Use CV joint grease. Constant velocity joints have it packed in their
boots. usu. available in 3gr. tubes. Lobro or GKN will market it. 
Cheers   Peter
-- 
World Wide Auto Parts of Madison
2517 Seiferth Rd. Madison WI USA 53716
(608)223-9400  fax 223-9403 WATS (800)362-1025
http://www.mailbag.com/users/nosimport/

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 98 13:58:35 EST
Subject: Re: Greasing Lenny's diesel smoke...

>A sure sign that you need work is when you can no longer see traffic in 
>your rear-view mirror due to the smoke.

or maybe due to nobody being behind you...just keep the windshield clean!

DaveB

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 12:10:16 -0800
From: John Hong <jhong@best.com>
Subject: Forward Control Registry Email contacts...

Hello Folks,

I'd appreciate it if any of you  know of an email contact for the Forward
Control Registry.
Either an official one or an active member.

I'd like to send some material electronically for the next Six Stud.

Regards from N. California.

John Hong

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 15:07:57 EST
Subject: Re:  Help for Chinese RR Owner

In a message dated 1/21/98 10:58:13 AM, you wrote:

>	The most help for the Chinese Range Rover/Land Rover owner came
>from the Rover CAR list.  Now THAT tells me something.
>Eric

I e-mailed the person off-list, privately, as it was just as apparent that the
person needing help wasn't a list subscriber. 

Don't jump too quick on listers who didn't post public replies to someone who
would not have seen them anyway.

His solution should obviously come from LR, UK or LRNA, and all I could do was
pass along tel #s other than his dealer in New Jersey.

pat
93  110

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 12:22:26 -0800
From: John Hong <jhong@best.com>
Subject: Anyone try/have  Metrinch  tools?

Um...so I am watching the tv and I see this late night infomercial...am
about ready to change the channel when I see it is actually about tools so
I watch it.   This tool is called the metrinch and it has both sockets and
spanner wrenches that have lobes (cam action) that hit the sides of hex
head instead of the corners.  The claim is made that this enables a wrench
to grip both metric and english and rounded hex heads.

An interesting idea.  They want about $130 US for a 48 piece set.  web site
at  www.choicemall.com/metrinch

Normally, I don't  give these infomercial products any consideration but if
there are any happy users out there...

Thanks

John

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 15:33:00 EST
Subject: Re: Towing with an 88"

In a message dated 1/21/98 12:12:48 PM, you wrote:

>I think another factor would be the tongue weight.  I had a friend who was
>trailering a Citroen DS 21 from Portland to Utah, had it loaded improperly
>with not enough weight on the tongue and he ended up straddling the median
>divider with his RR and the flatbed u-haul trailer near Grants Pass in S.
>Oregon.

We use a D90 to tow a long, double-axle trailer certified to *carry* 4,500 lbs
of cargo (hauling building supplies out to the boonies). When we bought the
trailer, the manufacturer gave a long lesson on loading, giving lots of
attention to tounge weight. Properly built trailers have the axles a bit
behind the unladen C of G which makes the hitch go down, or be heavier than
the rear end, so that empty trailers can be towed around. Loading even a bit
of cargo on the tail end of the trailer may cause this "nose'heavy" attitude
to disappear because of leverage or whatnot, so be sure there's adequate
weight in front of the trailer axles.

When we really load up the trailer, we check how much the D90 sags when the
trailer's nose wheel is lifted. We know how much it should sag for 400-600
pounds of tounge weight. The trailer has hydraulic brakes, which help a whole
lot. Also, when we need to go up or down steepish hills, Low range is used.

No problems so far. Except for terrible departure angle on trailer. I assume
that LR would have placarded the D90 if it wasn't suitable for towing. 

I heard through the grapevine that Stage I's are particularly suitable tow
vehicles. Perhaps there's one in your area...

pat
93 110

------------------------------

From: DrLeeW@aol.com
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 15:49:17 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re:   The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Anyone out there have any experience with replacement tires (tyres) for Range
Rovers. Mine is a '95 LWB and my Michelins are getting kind of tired. Avons
have been recommended to me but I have no experience with them. I am still
pining for  Metzler snow tires which had to be some of the best tires I have
ever owned. thanks

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 15:53:17 -0500 (EST)
From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Subject: Re: No Help for Chinese LR Owner

>DoctorMudd <DoctorMudd@aol.com> wrote:
>> Ah, Mr. Chinese LR Owner, you fall for Imperialist rip off too many
>> time. Your car not real. It is impostor of highest order and
>	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 6 lines)]
>> lemon-law; but china have no law at all so you out of luck.
><additional drivel snipped>

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
><additional drivel snipped>
>Posts like this are completely inappropriate.
Are you the supreme authority on what is appropriate??
I thought not.

  Would you say what you
>wrote to the Chinese LR Owner in person?
I probably would, but I'm a bit of a smart ass anyway.

>connect your brain to your fingers before you send a post to the list!
>Jeff Reynolds
>1995 Beluga Black Discovery
>Rovers North Roof Rack
>4 Hella Rallye 4000's
>1 Hella Work Light
Perhaps you should spend more time wiring up some more lights to your 1995
Beluga Black Discovery with the Rovers North Roof Rack and less time
worring about what other people think or say.

Have a nice day  :)

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
Pittsburgh, Pa.

------------------------------

From: "Chris Dillard"<cdillard@Aholdusa.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 15:54:15 -0500
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

I would say that really depends on the way that your driving is split
between on road/ and off road. My time is split 80/20 so I went with the
Michelin 205/80R16 XPC 4X4 and have been pleased with their on road
quietness as well as their off roadperformance. Perfect for my needs.

Cheers

Chris
91 RR County SWB (w/ a few extra's)
G-ville SC
  __ __ __
 |__|__|__|
//__|__|__\___
\__ - ____ - _|}
   (_)    (_)

------------------------------

From: "macky" <macky@arunet.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Anyone try/have  Metrinch  tools?
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 21:04:19 -0000

John, I have a Metrinch socket set here in the UK. They work fine under most
circumstances. There are two problems with them though, both to do with the
built in 'slop' they have because of the way they work.
In tight spaces I sometimes find that all the available space can be used up
moving the ratchet handle from side to side without the socket putting any
force on the nut. Also, if a lot of force is required, because the socket
doesn't grip as tight, it can rock sideways right off the nut. I have to use
my other hand to push on the socket to keep it in place.
They are useful for working on rounded off nuts, but with hindsight I think
I would go for a conventional set now.

Macky

'84 110 V8 CSW

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 16:11:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dan Prasada-Rao (301)757-1571x18" <prasadaraodp.nimitz@NAVAIR.NAVY.MIL>

>>From: Erik Van Dyck <vandycke@mailserver.volvo.com>
>>Subject: Re: Anti-slap pad thingie

>>    The new chain is much shorter than the original, in fact you have to
>>slide both sprockets and the chain on as an assembly to get it
>>together.  The cam sprocket has only one slot, so setting the cam timing
>>is simple, unlike the trial and error of the original sprocket.  
>> In any event mine has gone 10K miles now without any noise or problems.
>>Best Wishes,
>>Erik van Dyck
>>Suwanee, Georgia
>>'73 Ser III  88"

Hope mine goes as easy.  I'm just hoping the loose cam sprocket didn't bung
up the end of the cam or the key slot too much.

I don't suppose it's possible to replace the cam without pulling the head.
:(

Dan Rao
'63 109" Station Wagon

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 13:58:59 -0800 (PST)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Anyone try/have  Metrinch  tools? (No LR content)

I use them to install or change my SPLIT-FIRE spark plugs.

(just kidding.... don't have either)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 14:36:14 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Subject: Re: RR Trouble - China

Hello again Jason,

I still suspect that your 1996 RR 4.0 is not behaving well due to
sitting and not being used for over a year, or in transit.  I suggest
that you disconnect the battery and have it charged to *full* capacity.
Have each cell checked for specific gravity (charge).  Then also, have
the voltage checked across the terminals, it should read about 13.0 -
13.5 V total, or 2.0 V between adjacent cells.  A disfunctional battery
could account for your ECU computer failing.  Please note that this
vehicle is used to operating off of the high capacity 120 amp alternator.

As you disconnect the battery, the ECU computer will also have a chance
to reset itself and clear all of the codes from memory.  Unfortunately
the ECU codes cannot be read directly as in the older RR models.  An
external reader must be plugged into the socket next to the glovebox door.
This reader is not specific to Land Rover /Range Rover only.  Any garage
working on 'modern' US cars will be able to plug into it with their DOS-2
(or DOS-3 ?) multimeter hardware.  Here in the US all garage computers
for this and later model year cars are the same and will work.

You might also try calling Land Rover North America's "Rover Tech Line"
in Maryland, USA (East Coast, -0500 hrs) at 301-731-9040 during normal
business hours.  I'm suprised there is no Land Rover dealer in Hong
Kong, maybe the franchise is still available ;)  I know that there are
LR dealerships in Japan.

I still believe the vehicle is basically in good condition because you
had it running previously.  If worse comes to worse, you may have a $3000
problem --that is, paying for shipping to the US West Coast and back.
The RR should still be under LRNA/US warranty, and any dealer here will
fix it for free!

Keep us posted, and all the best,

-Michael

President pro tem                            North America's largest and   =

Land Rover Owners' Association (LROA)         and oldest Land Rover club
PO Box 430, Walnut Creek, CA 94597 USA           Annual dues still US$20

Michael Carradine     ___,_\__                          www.landrover.net
Architect             [_______]           50-80, 72-88, 89-RR Land Rovers
510-988-0900 _______.._(o)_.(o)__..o^^ PO Box 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597

At 10:44 AM 1/21/98 +0800, Jason wrote:
	excessive text deleted.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 19:02:43 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Anyone try/have  Metrinch  tools?

Don't Bother they are garbage. They don't fit any thing properly and
will cause you untold grief.
    John and Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 01:13:44 +0100
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Greasing Lenny's diesel smoke...

Bill - you do have a way with words! :-) It's replies like yours which
make this list what it is!

Adams, Bill wrote:

Dood, you can find molybdenum disulphide grease all over the place, you
are obviously conversing with morons. As for your diesel troubles, they
don't sound like much of a worry. If you can get the wheezer up to 55,
that's pretty good. Don't fret about winding it out, as there is a
built-in rev limiter that will end the fun at about 4500 (I think). Keep
it floored all the time. I would recommendthat you get at least a
hundred thousand on the odo before tearing the guts out. I doubt that
the engine has ovalled the bores. A sure sign that you need work is when
you can no longer see traffic inyour rear-view mirror due to the smoke.
Til then, just drive it.
-------- end quote -----------

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "The Stockdales" <mstockdale@mho.net>
Subject: Re:Best source of brake parts for Canada?
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 18:02:49 -0700
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ]
	charset="iso-8859-1"

I have found that the flare needed on my 59 SII is known as a "bubble =
flare".  A regular flaring kit won't make this kind of flare.  You can =
buy standard lengths of tubing with this flare at either end, however =
they are usually male type fittings.  You need female type fittings at =
the flex line connections.  Adapters are available.  For all the hassle =
I would just shell out the scheckles and buy new brake lines from one of =
the suppliers.  Another tip: get the "cast iron" weel cylinders, they =
hold up better than the Al. ones.

------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BD2696.C94C1B80
	[ Original post was HTML ]
	charset="iso-8859-1"

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I have found that the flare needed on my 59 SII is =
known as a
&quot;bubble flare&quot;.&nbsp; A regular flaring kit won't make this =
kind of
flare.&nbsp; You can buy standard lengths of tubing with this flare at =
either
end, however they are usually male type fittings.&nbsp; You need female =
type
fittings at the flex line connections.&nbsp; Adapters are =
available.&nbsp; For
all the hassle I would just shell out the scheckles and buy new brake =
lines from
one of the suppliers.&nbsp; Another tip: get the &quot;cast iron&quot; =
weel
cylinders, they hold up better than the Al. =
ones.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BD2696.C94C1B80--

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Forward Control Registry Email contacts...
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 17:05:48 -0800 (PST)
From: "Michael Fredette" <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>

 Hello Folks,
 
 I'd appreciate it if any of you  know of an email contact for the Forward
Control Registry.
 Either an official one or an active member.
 
 I'd like to send some material electronically for the next Six Stud.
 
 Regards from N. California.
 
 John Hong
 
John,

    There are only a few of us on the net who are in the 101FCC&R, and I don't
  think there are any email addresses for submitting material to Six Stud. Myself,
  George Bull in Maine, Phil Carkagis in Australia, Alasdair Worsley in the UK
  and Eric Cope in N. Calif. are the only members I see on the LRO list. If you
  want to submit an article to Six Stud, I can give Chris Savidge's address.

Rgds
Mike Fredette
101 FC
Ser III 88
mfredett@ichips.intel.com
  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 20:20:57 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Anyone try/have  Metrinch  tools?

John Hong wrote:

> The claim is made that this enables a wrench
> to grip both metric and english and rounded hex heads.

For the price they're not that much different from separate
sets of metric and english.

I suspect they'd only work under ideal (loose, clean) conditions.
It can be difficult enough to get nuts and bolts undone with
"precise" tools.  Why push your luck?

cheers

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 22:25:13 -0800
From: Dave Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: PTO  What am I thinking

For those who sent personal E-Mail about why I want the PTO on my Ser
IIA:  I have access to a fire engine pump off an old Dodge airport fire
truck.  It is similar to the one that Land Rover used on the Ser I
vehicles.  In Manitoba we have two types of disasters-floods and forest
fires.  I want a machine that can respond to both.  I am in the Ham
Radio Emergency Corps here and having this vehicle with the pump, AC
generator and an HF and VHF station with a safari roof rack with a
tripod and antennas, makes this a very good emergency vehicle.  I was
using an air operated 40 foot mast that went up using a tire inflating
compressor.  It worked great for emergency VHF antennas, but it was a
bit light for a full HF beam.  The thing nested to about 8 feet and was
about 6" across at the base with about 6 sections that nested down
inside the base.  It had been used by the military, and I got it from
Crown Assest Disposal in Canada.  Must have cost the government a bundle
( I think in the three thousand area) but it sold for $100.  I always
keep the Ser IIA in top shape and now with the new 750 x 16 Coopers on
her, it can go in the snow like no other local vehicle.  My plan is to
machine a plate about 1/2 inch thick, drill and top it for the pump and
generator, and make it match up to a rubber Lovejoy fitting just inside
the "big hole" in the cross member.  I can run all sorts of things off
it beside the pump and generator.  My PTO should be here by Friday if
the mail is on time.  I will report how it goes on over the weekend.
Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 01:49:56 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Towing with an 88"

Michael Slade wrote:
> I think another factor would be the tongue weight.  I had a friend who was
> trailering a Citroen DS 21 from Portland to Utah, had it loaded improperly
> with not enough weight on the tongue and he ended up straddling the median
> divider with his RR and the flatbed u-haul trailer near Grants Pass in S.
> Oregon.
> Apparently the trailer was 'wagging the dog' to such an extreme that the

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 24 lines)]
> '90 RR
> Portland, OR

Whatever your towing, and whatever your towing it with, be careful. A 
couple of summers ago, my racing-car neighbour Tim and I headed out in 
his decked out tow vehicle (3/4 ton Ford pick-up) and his empty car 
carrier in tow. He wanted to get a load of cow-shit from up the road. (He 
saw me bringing this stuff home one day in my trailer towed by my 88.) 
Well, at the farm we loaded up. I was running the tractor and I told him 
to let me know when he's got enough on the trailer. More is better in the 
race car drivers mind, so we got a real BIG load (no bull-shit).
   To make the story a bit shorter, we were barrelling down the road when 
the tail started to wag the dog. Now in Tim's mind, when this happens on 
the track, you just give it more gas and drive out of the wag. (so he 
said afterwards)(bullshit). As I was watching the scenery go by and 
trying to crawl under the dash, and wondering if I put clean underwear on 
in the morning (remember what Mom always said) when finally the wheels on 
one side of the trailer actually broke off, threw us in a spin and dumped 
us into the ditch backwards, with the trailer jacknifed into the back. 
 Damage: Frame twisted on Ford, Bumper bent in half,two broken rims on 
trailer, trailer sides ripped off and 3/4 of a load of shit lost. (no 
bullshit!)
  LR content: I went to that spot several times in my LR and trailer to 
load up, seeing as how we almost made it home.

Cheers,

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 23:12:52 -0600
From: nlamon1@tiger.lsuiss.ocs.lsu.edu
Subject: CAN'T FIND AD SENT IN?

To Whom It May Concern:

I filled in the ad submission for and sent it in, but i can't find it.
I was informed over e-mail that the ad is posted, but I can't seem to
raise it.  I keep pulling up the same list of 48 postings that doesn't
seem to change?

Is it a bug, or is ita me?

Regards,

Neil Lamont
-- 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 02:13:14 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Best source of brake parts for Canada?

The Stockdales wrote:
> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BD2696.C94C1B80
>         charset="iso-8859-1"
> I have found that the flare needed on my 59 SII is known as a "bubble =
> flare".  A regular flaring kit won't make this kind of flare.  You can =

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
> hold up better than the Al. ones.
> ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BD2696.C94C1B80
	[ Original post was HTML ]
>         charset="iso-8859-1"
> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
> <HTML>
> <HEAD>
> <META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
> http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
> <META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 28 lines)]
> ones.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
> ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BD2696.C94C1B80--

I have a kit that makes the "Double Flare". Works great, looks great,
 never have any leaks. A roll of steel tubing and the flare kit makes a 
great LR Tool Kit addition!

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 23:22:16 -0600
From: nlamon1@tiger.lsuiss.ocs.lsu.edu
Subject: NEVER MIND, I FOUND IT.

Ignore previous message.  I figured it out and found my ad.

Sorry,

Regards,

Neil Lamont
-- 

------------------------------

From: "P Burgers" <PBURGERS@CPLS.WCAPE.GOV.ZA>
Date:          Thu, 22 Jan 1998 08:05:24 +0200
Subject:       Re: Anyone try/have  Metrinch  tools?

> built in 'slop' they have because of the way they work.

I echo these sentiments.  The main problem I have found is that there 
is excessive play in the ratchet mechanism of the ratchet bar, 
resulting in excessive motion to get the nut to turn.  As the drive 
is a generic size, I substituted a better quality ratchet drive (S**p-
*n) which helped a lot.

Peter B
Cape Town

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 23:53:49 -0600
From: nlamon1@tiger.lsuiss.ocs.lsu.edu
Subject: PLEASE CHECK E-MAIL ADDRESS

To Whom It May Concern:

If possible, please check my e-mail address in my current ad.

It is <nlamon1@tiger.lsu.edu>

Thanks,

NL3
-- 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 04:26:32 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Out of Line engine/tranny

Keith Mohlenhoff wrote:

> My engine/tranny in my SWB is not perpendicular with the chassis.
> The chassis is square and I tried to realign the engine/tranny by
> changing the 4 mounts and trying to shift it into the correct
> alignment.
> It is still not in line.

Scenario 1:
Are you sure it should be "perpendicular" (I presume you mean the rear
face of the engine block, not the crank axis, perpendicular to the side
of the frame.) How much is it off? Trucks have been designed with the
powertrain rotated a slight amount in planview. Generally the reason is
better packaging. I don't know what LR did.

Scenario 2:
Are you sure your frame is straight and square? Check some diagonal
measurments. Make sure the mount locations are square to the frame.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 10:00:07 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Anyone try/have  Metrinch  tools?

>Normally, I don't  give these infomercial products any consideration but if
>there are any happy users out there...
Will an unhappy one do? I got a set for work(they paid,not me thank goodness).
They may fit metric,I wouldnt know,but as sure as hell they dont fit
imperial.
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 13:39:04 +0200 (EET)
From: "R. Wade Hughes" <hughes@trshp.trs.ntc.nokia.com>
Subject: Re:  Shark sighted in Web waters again  

Just checked out RN board & yesterday a "Doc" was pushing
your infamous BNW... it's  pitiful if some robber baron
can stay in business & blasphemes the LR legend 
in N. America by taking enthusiastic newbies (like me)
to the cleaners...
If somebody offers a "limited lifetime guaratee",
duck for cover!
"Dead men don't get refunds"
------------------------
R. Wade Hughes

------------------------------

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