L-R Mailing Lists 1948-1998 Land Rover's 50th Anniversary

Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents


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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

msgSender linesSubject
1 "John M. Baker" [jbaker@26Transfer Case
2 "Dan Prasada-Rao (301)7534Timing chains, PTOs and other stuff
3 Jan Engborg [engborg@hus15Re: Moose Test and Land Rover
4 ecrover@midcoast.com (Ea18SI Help
5 Stephen Brown [sbrown@ne77Generator/Alternator make a circuit with me!
6 Peter [nosimport@mailbag31Re: Take Off, Eh?
7 "Herman L. Stude" [herma23Re: Carbs and clutch plates
8 "Con P. Seitl" [seitl@ns24Re: Carbs and clutch plates
9 "Herman L. Stude" [herma18Re: Take Off, Eh?
10 Eric Russell [erussell@s149Help for Chinese LR Owner
11 CIrvin1258 [CIrvin1258@a28Re: That diesel experience...
12 Mark Sullivan [marks@dat11Wiper Motor Problems
13 M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M28Re: That diesel experience...
14 M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M11Re: Wiper Motor Problems
15 Paul Quin [Paul_Quin@pml28RE: Wiper Motor Problems
16 M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M10RE: Wiper Motor Problems
17 David Scheidt [david@inf24Re: Carbs and clutch plates
18 JSmallals [JSmallals@aol11Re: Wiper Motor Problems
19 "David Hope" [davidjhope14Slow decline in braking efficiency
20 "Michael Bateman" [mbate26Re: Diesel LR's
21 "Michael Bateman" [mbate26Re: Diesel LR's
22 Peter [nosimport@mailbag24Re: Slow decline in braking efficiency
23 DoctorMudd [DoctorMudd@a30Re: No Help for Chinese LR Owner
24 kelliott@intranet.ca (Ke26Re: Slow decline in braking efficiency
25 garnold@clvm.clarkson.ed15Ice Storm 98
26 Paul Quin [Paul_Quin@pml20Fare Condition
27 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@ru31Landrover FAQ (fwd)
28 "Richard Clarke"[Richard17Engine torque
29 RykRover [RykRover@aol.c11Warn Winch Cable (USA)
30 "Herman L. Stude" [herma12[Fwd: wire rope strength]
31 Todd_Wilson@ccmail.colum29Re: Landrover FAQ (fwd)
32 Erik Van Dyck [vandycke@24Re: Anti-slap pad thingie
33 GElam30092 [GElam30092@a18flashers
34 IBEdwardp [IBEdwardp@aol17Sighting
35 mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marc13Re: Sighting
36 Kathleen Hollington [kho25Best source of brake parts for Canada?
37 "Con P. Seitl" [seitl@ns22Re: Anti-slap pad thingie
38 "Con P. Seitl" [seitl@ns22Re: Best source of brake parts for Canada?
39 "Con P. Seitl" [seitl@ns11No Chinese Help Here!!
40 "William L. Leacock" [wl21fuel tank level units
41 kiotee@mcn.net (Roy Cald8Re: Sighting
42 TeriAnn Wakeman [twakema23[not specified]
43 TeriAnn Wakeman [twakema35[not specified]
44 rover@pinn.net (Alexande27Stuck clutch
45 David Kurzman [kurzman@i12Re: Stuck clutch
46 Art Maravelis [amjas@gis63Series 3 coonversions
47 "T. F. Mills" [tomills@d14(Fwd) Camel Trophy participation
48 "Steve & Leona Campbell"27PTO Eh?


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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 19:27:20 +0700 (ICT)
From: "John M. Baker" <jbaker@ksc8.th.com>
Subject: Transfer Case

First let me start off by saying "Thanks" to those who responded to my
question on the proper way to install the dist/cam gear. Plan to tackle
that this Sunday.

Have a new question, not really sure I want to hear the answer! I had
my gearbox/transfer case rebuilt, all bearings, sleeves, bushes, etc.
replaced. I was told all gears were in good shape. The other day I was
underneath and turned the transfer shaft flange (prop shaft is not yet
hooked up) and there was about 1/2 inch of slack either way before I could
feel it engage anything inside. This seemed to be the case regardless of
what gear it was in or whether or not the transfer lever was engaged or
not. I should point out that there is no oil in the gearbox yet (just
installed). Would appreciate any light shed on this, and if it is a
problem, what might account for that amount of slack?

Regards,

John M. Baker
Bangkok

P.S. Any List subscribers (besides myself) in Thailand?

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 08:19:21 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dan Prasada-Rao (301)757-1571x18" <prasadaraodp.nimitz@NAVAIR.NAVY.MIL>
Subject: Timing chains, PTOs and other stuff

On the timing chain tensioners, there are indeed two kinds the new updated
one eliminates the chain wheel but is still spring loaded.  I've got two
different answers on the ratcheting thingy.  One person at RN said it has a
finer toothed ratchet, the other person said it had no ratchet.  It does
use a shorter chain which, by the way, is twice the price.  What's up with
that?

I've also finally found the root of my problems with this engine.  I pulled
the front cover.  The chain is worn as is the tensioner.  The tensioner was
almost ready to go to the next tooth on the ratchet but was not quite there
yet which caused some excess play in the chain.  I found the real problem
after I took the chain off and went to play with the sprockets.  The cam
sprocket and bolt were loose.  The only thing holding it was the locker. 
I'm hoping that the key slot in the cam is not too far gone to hold a new
key and gear.  I'll know next week end.

On to the PTO's.  I've found an old j&%p around my area that has a KOENIG
PTO driven winch.  It is virtually identical to the one offered on LR's at
least it looks like the pictures on the Rover Web winch FAQ.  The only big
difference is the PTO unit itself.  I'm trying to get in touch with the
owner of the vehicle which has been sitting on the side of the road for 10
years.

 By the way, I don't know who it was that asked about the PTO's but I
talked to Mike Buonanducci in Vermont, U.S. he says he's got a couple in
stock.  

Dan Rao
"63 109" Station Wagon

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 14:46:45 +0100
From: Jan Engborg <engborg@huslak-sandviken.se>
Subject: Re: Moose Test and Land Rover
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------34F18F789A3692102E96D23B" ]

Easton,

Could you develop this a little more?
What about  " ......the Moose Test" and LR's engineers viewing the video of
the Discovery.........". What did it show?

Jan

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 08:54:29 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: SI Help

Thanks to everyone who emailed, called, and faxed me the info. I needed
about Series I parts and stuff. I just got back from an expedition in
southern Mexico and downloaded 499 emails! Yikes! So I may not get around
to thanking everyone, but I do appreciate it greatly! Hopefully you'll see
this little 80" somewhere this summer season, if I get it done! Thanks
again!

From: Mike Smith,  EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 14:09:27 GMT
From: Stephen Brown <sbrown@ner.com>
Subject: Generator/Alternator make a circuit with me!

My old generator on my 1960 Series II gave up the ghost (of Lucas??)
and ...

I just finished my generator to alternator conversion and it works
great. In retrospect it was dirt simple and fairly cheap. I spent much
more time agonizing over whether to do it and what to do than it
actually took to do it. The alternator is a 63 amp single pulley
Delco-Remy unit for a 1975 Chevy Nova with a 350 cubic inch engine. I
had to disassemble the alternator and rotate the case 90 degrees to
give good access to the wiring connector socket. Care must be taken
when reassembling so the brushes dont get broken (I have a story to
tell about this, but I'll spare you the details... just note that there
is a special pin hole in the back of the alternator to allow a nail to
hold the brushes out of the way of the slip rings for this purpose --
don't try to put it together without pinning backe the brushes!!). A
lifetime guarantee rebuilt alternator cost less than $50 at the Parts
America (Western Auto) parts store in Barre, VT and I spent another
$10-15 or so on wire, connectors, and hardware. For safety's sake I
ran three new wires right into the dashboard and disconnected and
taped off the original wires. There is stuff called "wire loom"
available by the foot that aids in rewrapping the wiring harness to
protect wires from heat and crud. 

The mounting was extremely simple: a new 7" long 5/16" bolt nut and
lockwasher, a piece of 1/8" brass plumbing pipe (drilled out inside to
5/16" and used to convert the 3/8" bolt hole in the alternator to fit
the landrover 5/16" mounting bolt), a 3/8" drive 1/2" socket as a 1"
long spacer, and two additional 5/16" flat washers as further spacers
to line up the pulleys.  I just simply removed the extra aluminum
generator mounting piece altogether and am saving it in case I ever
want to go back! I had to extend the fan belt adjustment arm about 2"
using a piece of harware-store gate hardware and a couple of
bolts. The original fan belt still fits.

For wiring instructions, I relied on a FAQ obtained from a landrover
owners web page, a great web page about Triumph cars which has a must
read article about how alternators work, and my landrover shop manual
wiring diagrams. Search Altavista for this info, I can post the
addresses later if people are interested. Before doing anything, I
cleaned off my wiring harness with citrisolv to allow me to see the
wiring colors and I traced out old wiring to make sure I understood it
well. This turned out to be especially important, since it turns out
my vehicle had already been converted to negative ground before I
bought it and the original 5 terminal regulator had been replaced with
a 3 terminal more generic model (with some accompanying gerry-rigging
of the original wiring). One of the key points I picked up from the
Triumph page was that the hooking up the alternator warning light wire
is actually a necessity since it supplies the initial field current
before the engine gets up to speed. I guess that means if the
indicator light bulb ever burns out, then the alternator will
malfunction -- I'd better carry some spares! I was able to reroute
some messy wiring, rewrap bad spots of the wiring harness and all in
all clean things up.

The heater, wipers, lights, and turn signals can all work
simultaneously at idle without a flicker ... and I believe my engine
runs better, perhaps the faltering voltage from the old generator
affecting the ignition coil output voltage??

Steve Brown

-- 
Stephen Brown, Ph.D.
New England Research
76 Olcott Drive
White River Junction, Vermont 05001 USA

(802) 296-2401 phone
(802) 296-8333 fax

sbrown@ner.com
http://www.ner.com

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 08:40:59 -0800
From: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Subject: Re: Take Off, Eh?

Paul Quin wrote:

> A buddy has a front winch on his 88", made by Koning Iron Works, that
> looks like it could winch a freight train up a mountain.  It is a front
> mounted winch that runs off of the rear tranny PTO.  The drive shaft
> snakes from the back of the tranny around the left side of the engine to
> the winch.  Any body know anything about these?

Paul,
	I have the above winch on my '73 88. Haven't tried pulling a train yet
but the greatest difficulty is trying to the LR down. Pulled wheeless
cars sideways through the woods! Pulled 1000lb ice making compressor up
a flight of stairs and around a telephone pole. (the Jeep guys were
amazed) The winch is slow and steady with 4 forward speeds and reverse!
Only drawback . . . can't use an overdrive.
Cheers   Peter
'60 109 SW
'66 88 w/ plow
'72 88 for parts
'73 88 daily(?) driver (w/winch)
'52 Austin Champ (really ugly) 
-- 
World Wide Auto Parts of Madison
2517 Seiferth Rd. Madison WI USA 53716
(608)223-9400  fax 223-9403 WATS (800)362-1025
http://www.mailbag.com/users/nosimport/

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 08:55:48 -0600
From: "Herman L. Stude" <hermans@krts.com>
Subject: Re: Carbs and clutch plates

Brad Krohn/Deb Shannon wrote:

> When I went to move it out of the weather, I found the clutch plate had adhered itself to its distaff side. I remember at one time seeing a few tips and tricks for getting the plates to pop apart -- can anyone refresh my memory?

Brad;

Just did this Sunday, my SIII sat for just three weeks.  I used my tow
strap; attached it to a large tree; positioned the rover by starting it
in low gear (rough on the tired starter); attached strap to SOLID part
of the rover with lots of slack; started rover in reverse with clutch
pedal to the FLOOR; gave her the gas; got to the end of the line and the
strap snapped; tied it together with an overhand bend; tried a few more
times; and finally got the old clutch un stuck.  Did I mention that I
was in low four.

Now it seems as though I have a lot less clutch to work with...oh well.

-hls

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 11:58:11 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Carbs and clutch plates

Huub Pennings wrote:
> Start her in firs, and with gear engaged and clutch pedal to the
> floor, run her into a solid object, this should shake her free. You
> might want to check whether their is some movement in the slave
> mechanism when you floor the pedal first.
> Just my two cents worth............
> Regards,

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
> e-mail adress
> Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

Same method I used, and it works. Except the last time when the fault lay 
in the slave cylinder. There I was, out on the front lawn, up against the 
big tree, wheels spinning, going nowhere. Neighbours don't even bother 
looking into my yard anymore. They must know something!

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 09:14:27 -0600
From: "Herman L. Stude" <hermans@krts.com>
Subject: Re: Take Off, Eh?

> A buddy has a front winch on his 88", made by Koning Iron Works, that
> looks like it could winch a freight train up a mountain.  It is a front
> mounted winch that runs off of the rear tranny PTO. 
> the winch.  Any body know anything about these?

Got one of these that runs off of the front of the engine. Koenig Iron
Works is now Rawson Koenig still based here in Houston.  Can't use it in
four gears, but I can use the overdrive.  Did I say it was strong and
carries 150' of wire rope.

Great fun.

-hls

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 07:42:32 -0800
From: Eric Russell <erussell@sd45.bc.ca>
Subject: Help for Chinese LR Owner

Land Rover Owners,
	The following message was received by me insisting on help to solve
his Land Rover/Range Rover problems in the wilds of mainland China.  Apart
from the fact that he thinks I run the company, he may have a valid
question.  Who can he contact so that he can properly jump up and down?
Does anyone have a valid contact telehone number, FAX number, or email
address that he can use to pursue help?  It makes interesting reading.

Eric Russell
Manager of The RoverNet mailing list for Rover CAR owners.

*************************************************************************
X-Authentication-Warning: cassiopeia.hkstar.com: Host
ip-55-98.dialup.hkstar.com [202.82.55.98] claimed to be hkstar.com
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 16:40:11 +0800
=46rom: Jason <sanmax@hkstar.com>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Subject: asking for help...
X-MIME-Autoconverted: from 8bit to quoted-printable by cln.etc.bc.ca id
AAA18762

Asking for anyone who can help.
We already send the following letter to the manufacture of Land Rover
Ltd in U.K and USA two
weeks ago, but we haven't get any response. We are looking for anyone
who can help us.
Thank you very much.

Attn: Owner Care Department
Cc: Manager/ Chairman
=46rom: Mr. L.W. Chan / Jason Chang

Re: Range Rover4.0 SE

Dear Sir:
Our company ,Sanmax Development Ltd., was brought five Rovers from Land
Rover Paramus (USA) at the end of 1996. Four of them are pretty good
condition so far. Unfortunately, there has some problems happen in the
last one. It=92s the Range Rover 4.0 SE, green colors.
The body number is : SALPE1246TA341934
The engine number is: 42D14122A

Actually we never drive this car until a weeks ago, we just place it in
our warehouse more than one year. We transported it to China ( Shenzhen)
on last week, it was the first time we drove it but the problems were
happened after the running of the half hour . It is a brand new car, it
just running no more than 100kms.
The problems are the following:
=46irst of all, the check engine light was on,
Second, ABS light was on .
Third, One more light on. It shows us that the car is loading in the
hightest postiion.we can=92t load down the car anymore.

The repair store told us that the No.3 and No.5 valve didn=92t work, there
has no electric to the valves. They were not sure what =91s going on , it
maybe something wrongs in the computer of =93Electronic Control Unit=94 that
is controlling the engine part.
This repair store is just a normal auto repair store. We already check a
numbers of auto repair stores. They don=92t have a =93Computer=94 to check t=
he
car, so they can=92t do anything.
We try to connect with Hong Kong=92s Land Rover Dealer:
Inchcape Motors International
161 Ma Tau Wei Road,
Tokwawan, Kowloon
Hong Kong
Tel: 852-27684094  Fax: 852-25444545

They said that they don=92t have any computer in China, except one similar
in Beijing, China. It is more than 2,000 kms from Shenzhen. They won=92t
send this computer to us and we are difficult to send our car to there.
But they have a repair center in Guangzhou, China, a city behind
Shenzhen. We already send our car to that center but it also without
this computer to check what=92s going on=85=85???
We wish Hong Kong=92s dealer can translate a computer from Hong Kong to
China to check our car. Hong Kong=92s dealer told us that they don=92t have
response to this case.

As a custom like us, we really don=92t have any idea to repair our car, it
is a brank new car, we never drive it, but it has a lot of problems.
As you are producer, you do have response to help us to repair our car.
We understand that this car was brought in USA and it is a years ago but
we never drive it . It still a brand new car. We are not asking for
claim anything, we just asking for some helps to fix our car. We will
pay all the repair money, all we want is just wanna to know how can we
got the computer to check what=92s going on in our car.
Can you help us contact the Hong Kong Dealer, send a computer to China.
We will pay all the transport fee or you contact the China dealer to
help us. Or do you have any idea for us to solve our plroblems.

Actually, we can=92t do anything without your help. If you can=92t help us,
I don=92t think anyone can help us anymore. As you a very big and high
performance auto producer. Your Land Rover and Range Rover is a very
good car. We did buy 5 cars at the same time, they are:
Salpe1246ta341934       42d14122a
Salpe124xta344352       42d14764a
Saljy1245ta198360       50d16465a
Saljn1247ta195176       50d13357a
Saljy1247ta190499       50d10894a
=91We are going to buy more cars from your company, but if you can=92t help
us to solve our problems then we will very disappoint to your company.
We will post the complain in the major newspapers in the Asian, Hong
Kong, and China to indicate that there has no repair service for their
customers. We will also send the complain letter to the Customer
Department. Actually we are very good customers in your company, we
never calim any money in your company, we really don=92t want to break
down our good relationship between us. All we want is =93 repair our car=94
and we will pay all the repair fee, the problem is even we pay all the
money but we still can=92t repair our car. Can you belive a very biggest
auto company like Land Rover without a customer server in China market.
What can we do without your help ???? Transport a computer from Hong
Kong to China is not a really big problems. We can apply the document to
do this job. The problem is the Hong Kong=92s dealer won=92t send the
computer and anyone to China. I suggest you buy a computer to China, the
price is around US$30,000 dollars. We can drop down those money for the
deposit money.
This is very urgeny for us. I wish you can get back a response to us as
soon as possible.

It=92s better contact the Hong Kong and China=92s dealer, asking them to
help us. If we still get any respose, we are going to compain in the
related Businee/Government Department. And also post a big complain
Advertising in the biggest magazine and newspaper in U.S and Asian, such
as New York Times etc.

** Please contact us as soon as possible***

Best Regards
L.W Chan / Jason Chang

Sanmax Development Ltd.
Rm1203, New East Ocean Ctr. 9 Science Museum Rd. TSTE. KLN , Hong Kong
Tel: 852-27218239  Fax: 852-27221870   E-mail: sanmax@hkstar.com
*********************************************************************

end
-
Eric Russell:  erussell@sd45.bc.ca
* Grade 6 Teacher at Ridgeview Elementary School,
        West Vancouver, B.C.
Web site: http://www.sd45.bc.ca/sd45/ridgeview/ridgview.html
* Secretary of The Rover Car Club of Canada
* Manager of the RoverNet (Mailing List)
rovernet@ganglion.anes.med.umich.edu

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From: CIrvin1258 <CIrvin1258@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 10:46:28 EST
Subject: Re: That diesel experience...

Personally, if I had a 6cyl LR, I wouldn't replace the engine either. I'd keep
what was in it also. BUT, if I were to replace a LR 4cyl, I would use a Rover
v-8, rather than a Buick v8, and even then, I'd do it only if I couldn't get
hold of a 200/300 Tdi engine.

Why? Because, the Tdi has nearly the same power/torque as the V-8, but gets a
whopping 30-33mpg on the highway! That in itself, is worth the extra cost of
the engine.

Another problem with the 6cyl, is the fact that there are two versions: the
NAS, and the European - the former being increasingly difficult to get certain
parts for (the main reason that my friend got rid of his - no sense having
one, if a new water pump/valves are nla).

I agree with you on the point that the added torque does make some difference,
because my diesel can also pass other LR's uphill, and in fourth gear. ( ask
Lawrence at BP about the drive back from the Ventura British Car meet last
year!)

Charles Irvin
Compton, Ca.
1962 SIIA 109 diesel - and loving it!

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From: Mark Sullivan <marks@dataflowsys.com>
Subject: Wiper Motor Problems
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 11:44:52 -0500

The wiper motor in my IIA stopped working this morning. It seemed to get 
slower and slower and then finally stopped. I have never been able to get 
the high speed setting to work. Does anybody have any thoughts > $0.02. Is 
it just the brushes. Can I get the brushes from a local automotive 
electrical store? 

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 16:53:20 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: That diesel experience...

>The 6 may be fourties technology; it may be heavy; but it outperforms a
>petrol 8:1 four cylinder and its got the deisel's specifications beat all
>to heck clear accross the RPM band.
Doesnt matter a monkey's what the specs say.Its the performance in the
vehicle that counts.After all,the *specs* say a bumble bee cant fly.
The bumble bee doesnt know this and goes ahead and does it anyway.And
the diesel is an ideal towing engine for low speed slogging tows,as in
towing horses.And of course,when your petrol engine wont start due to
damp ignition,the diesel is thousands of percents more powerful.
The big problem with *any* of Land Rover's IOE engines was always a
tendency to burn exhaust valves.That said,it was a beautifully quiet
engine.I well remember being asked(at age about sixteen)by a garage
owning friend of my father's ,to start up a three litre coupe.Even
with the window open,the only indication that the engine had "commenced"
was a faint quiver of the ammeter needle.
Its horses for courses,really IMO.Over here,British Telecom(then the GPO)
used six cyl station wagons as supervisors vehicles because they were faster
on road and reasonably good off it.But you needed a mobile oil well to
run 'em.They also used diesels for maid of all work type duties.But they had
to tow start 'em in winter,before the advent of anti-waxing fuel.And dont
forget as well,that if the 2 litre diesel hadnt been built,there would be
no two and a quarter petrol,which was developed from it.
Mike Rooth

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 16:57:05 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Wiper Motor Problems

 I have never been able to get
>the high speed setting to work.
Interesting.A two speed wiper on a 11A.Export spec?My 11A (1970)
has a single speed non self parking motor.As have all the others
of this age I've seen.
Mike Rooth

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: Wiper Motor Problems
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 09:01:53 -0800

Mike writes:

>Interesting.A two speed wiper on a 11A.Export spec?My 11A (1970)
has a single speed non self parking motor.As have all the others
of this age I've seen.
Mike Rooth<

I just went out and checked a 1969 IIA in the parking lot.  It
definitely has two speed wipers that auto park nicely...

Paul Quin
Victoria BC Canada

>-----Original Message-----
>From:	M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk [SMTP:M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk]
>Sent:	Tuesday, January 20, 1998 8:57 AM
>To:	lro@playground.sun.com
>Subject:	Re: Wiper Motor Problems

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
>of this age I've seen.
>Mike Rooth

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 17:08:14 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: RE: Wiper Motor Problems

>I just went out and checked a 1969 IIA in the parking lot.  It
>definitely has two speed wipers that auto park nicely...

Hey ho! Cobbler's kids always the worst shod:-)
Mike Rooth

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 12:33:07 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Subject: Re: Carbs and clutch plates

On Mon, 19 Jan 1998, Brad Krohn/Deb Shannon wrote:

> Second part: Before putting her to bed for a while (please, I am not "putting her to sleep..."), I'd been having similar symptoms to one  of the other recent posts -- coughing, stalling, backfiring after running for a while. My diagnosis was potentially stuck float. I'm comfortable with most jobs, but carbs aren't one of them. I might feel more comfortable if I could find a good diagram of the Weber 34ICH "single sucker." The Haynes only shows Zenith and Solex. Anyone know where I could locate one?

Haynes publishes a TechBook devotd to Weber carbs.  You ought to be able
to find it at an auto parts place.  

David/mr sinclair, currently suffering a visit of the Prince of darkness

> Cheers,
> Brad
> Hillsboro, OR / USA
> 69 IIA 88" Bug-Eye
> 93 RR County LWB
> ============================
> "Rover? Who drives it?" -- The Prisoner
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
> "That would be telling"   -- #2 
> ============================

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From: JSmallals <JSmallals@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 13:04:41 EST
Subject: Re: Wiper Motor Problems

There's a high speed setting????  I have never had a high, does this mean mine
needs work???
James Small
denver, colorado
66IIA SWB SW

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From: "David Hope" <davidjhope@email.msn.com>
Subject: Slow decline in braking efficiency
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 12:13:29 -0600

Over a two wek period of drivng my llA every day the brakes go from really
good to a point where much more 'pedal' is required to stop the vehicle.  A
second pump gets them back to original condition ( ie how they feel just
after the've been bled.  I do not appear to be losing any brake fluid.  Any
ideas?

David Hope
64llA SW

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From: "Michael Bateman" <mbateman@telisphere.com>
Subject: Re: Diesel LR's
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 09:44:44 -0800

Ahh, but it's so much sweeter when you can use someone elses lathe,
especially when it's bigger, nicer, and sitting next to two CNC milling
machines....

IOW, it's a toy I don't need, and it can feed the $ needed for other toys
(LR)

Michael

> >10"x24" logan metal lathe let me know.  These all have to go before I
can
> >really entertain LR ownership, so help me out here ;)  Hint - the lathe
> >fits in the back of the Ford nicely.....I'll even load it for you.....
> Michael,
> If you're going to get a Land Rover,the lathe will be a desirable
asset...
> Cheers
> Mike Rooth
> Michael,
> If you're going to get a Land Rover,the lathe will be a desirable

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From: "Michael Bateman" <mbateman@telisphere.com>
Subject: Re: Diesel LR's
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 10:02:05 -0800

> > F> Also, if there's anyone out there interested in trading a Series IIa
for an
> > '83 Mazda RX-7 Limited, '83 Ford F150 4x4, assorted Pentax cameras
and/or a

>What kind of shape is the 4x4 and mazda in? If Ok I may be interested...

Mazda in good shape, a little over 100K miles, runs great - the limited
editions are not common, have a nice greenish grey paint and very nice
looking BBS alloy wheels.  Looking for about $3K.

Ford in typical shape for age, also a little over 100K miles - 300 ci 6
cyl, some body damage, a little rust starting near bottom of doors. 
Recently rebuilt the entire front end, including new brakes, cv's, new
front driveline & u-joints, new rubber parts, etc.  Mud tires.  Looking for
about $3K.

Looking for $1K from lathe.

Michael

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 12:51:45 -0800
From: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Subject: Re: Slow decline in braking efficiency

David Hope wrote:
> Over a two wek period of drivng my llA every day the brakes go from really
> good to a point where much more 'pedal' is required to stop the vehicle.  A
> second pump gets them back to original condition ( ie how they feel just
> after the've been bled.  I do not appear to be losing any brake fluid.  Any
> ideas?
> David Hope

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> David Hope
> 64llA SW
David
	Adjust your shoes, they're too far away from the drum.
Cheers     Peter
-- 
World Wide Auto Parts of Madison
2517 Seiferth Rd. Madison WI USA 53716
(608)223-9400  fax 223-9403 WATS (800)362-1025
http://www.mailbag.com/users/nosimport/

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From: DoctorMudd <DoctorMudd@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 14:05:34 EST
Subject: Re: No Help for Chinese LR Owner

Ah, Mr. Chinese LR Owner, you fall for Imperialist rip off too many time. Your
car not real. It is impostor of highest order and deserves to be sentenced to
maximum punishment for try to copy original "Green Rover". You have lemon-car,
which can be fix by lemon-law; but china have no law at all so you out of
luck.

I suggest you try to call England and tell Queen her car no good, and to
please sell Rolls Royce to BMW also. Her telephone number is "1".

Height control of Rover is very common problem in Asian market, especially
communist (oh, did I say communist, I meant Communist) China. Even lowest
setting too high. That is imperialist trick number two. It meant to confuse
enemy in times of war. Beware also "Pink" land rovers; meant to confuse your
eyes into thinking you see big pile of sand, not truck.

One idea is to try acupuncture remedy.  To determine where to apply
accupuncture to Rover, thoroughly wet car with Hot & Sour soup, then apply
tea-leaves. Read tea leaves, then get a fork-lift. Use fork-lift with long
forks. Pierce bodywork with fork-lift until "Check Engine Light" goes out.

If that fails, revert to Cofuscianist manual under section "Ren-Ching your Ro-
Ver" by list member from DC.

Best of luck, and do not fall for Imperialist rip off anymore.

------------------------------
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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 14:57:28 -0500 (EST)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re: Slow decline in braking efficiency

>Over a two wek period of drivng my llA every day the brakes go from really
>good to a point where much more 'pedal' is required to stop the vehicle.  A
>second pump gets them back to original condition ( ie how they feel just
>after the've been bled.  I do not appear to be losing any brake fluid.  Any
>ideas?
>David Hope

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
>David Hope
>64llA SW

I would also try adjusting the shoes first. I had the same problem except
after about a week I would have no pedal at all, and still no fluid loss.
Baffeled the hell out of me until someone said that it was the flex lines
letting air in but not fluid out. After I changed the 3 flex lines the
problem was corrected. Might be something else to try.

Good luck
Keith
1961 Series II 88"
Ottawa

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 12:17:33 -0800 (PST)
From: garnold@clvm.clarkson.edu (Guy Arnold)
Subject: Ice Storm 98

Well after 10 days with no power in upstate NY it is good to be getting
back to normal. The "Green Machine" performed like a champ hauling
generators and getting around in the snow and ice. I hadn't run her in
about six weeks (I like to keep her on a salt free diet as much as
possible) but when I hit the key with temp in the low teens she fired right
over and never quit. I got quite few long looks from the power crews who
were here from all over the northeast. Tonight she gets a oil change and
new filter for a job well done.
Guy Arnold
1973 Series III swb "Green Machine"

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: Fare Condition
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 13:03:21 -0800

A few people have asked whether the '61 'bus washer' Landy pictured in
Jan '98's LRO (page 22)  is the vehicle that I am restoring.

It's not, but mine came from the same back yard.  I took some pictures
of the yellow bus washer the same day that I hauled mine home, and sent
a few of the pic's in to LROI.  I thought that the 'modifications' done
to it might be interesting enough to share.  It's really quite a bizarre
machine.

Give that hedge a few years, and those Landy's will disappear!

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88
Victoria, BC  Canada

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 11:37:30 -1000 (HST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@rubicon.off-road.com>
Subject: Landrover FAQ (fwd)

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 06:34:43 +0200
From: Chris Moustakis <chris@tubbs.paradigm-sa.com>
Subject: Landrover FAQ

Hi

I read your article with respect to Diesel engined Landrovers...but it
doesn't
have enought info on my situation, maybe you can help...

Am looking for the wiring diagram for the sequential original set of
glow-plugs
for a series II/IIA 2.5L Diesel engine.... The car is running off a 12V
battery and
has the Resistor missing.  What value is this resistor and what
Wattage?  Also a simple
circuit diagram will be appreciated.

I have searched hi and low for info on this but everyone seems to be
very vague!

Please help me if you can

Chris

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From: "Richard Clarke"<Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au>
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 08:23:46 +1000
Subject: Engine torque

I though the important issue was not so much what is maximum torque - but
how flat the torque curve is (whilst still above an acceptable minimum)

one of the advantages of a diesel engine is it has a relatively flat torque
curve, usually relatively high at the low end of the rev range

even though an engine may have higher torque it may be up at the high rev
end which may not give it where you need it for engine braking or rock
climbing

my 3c worth (2c US allowing for the exchange rate to Australian $)

------------------------------
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From: RykRover <RykRover@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 16:20:50 EST
Subject: Warn Winch Cable  (USA)

Hi All, I have a question about replacing the cable on a very old warn
winch(circa1959). the model number is 8404 . I called Warn and they said that
it called for a 150ft cable(is this necessary?) Can I use a Any 5/16'' cable? 
Thanks in Advance, 
Rick

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 16:14:29 -0600
From: "Herman L. Stude" <hermans@krts.com>
Subject: [Fwd: wire rope strength]
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------720E3D3162F4" ]

>From an old post, I just went through this.

Herman

--------------720E3D3162F4
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: message/rfc822 ]

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 13:56:11 -0800
From: Todd_Wilson@ccmail.columbia.com (Todd Wilson)
Subject: Re: Landrover FAQ (fwd)

     I just replaced the relay on my truck (2.5 td) I don't believe the 2.5 
     uses a resistor or it's in the relay. 
     
     The toggle switch is powered and is wired to the cold start light. The 
     same lead runs to a relay on the firewall that runs down to the plugs 
     that are wired in series. there is a ground from the relay and 
     probably a main power supply wire. (it was late and wet and i got it 
     to start)
     
     without going to look at the truck thats how I recall it. 
     
     I was able to cross ref. the relay at the local parts house. (echlin#)
     
     tew

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
> Subject: Landrover FAQ (fwd)
> Author:  Dixon Kenner <dkenner@rubicon.off-road.com> at Internet
> From: Chris Moustakis <chris@tubbs.paradigm-sa.com> 
> Subject: Landrover FAQ

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 42 lines)]
> Please help me if you can
> Chris

------------------------------
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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 17:28:59 -0500
From: Erik Van Dyck <vandycke@mailserver.volvo.com>
Subject: Re: Anti-slap pad thingie

    Regarding the Rover's North option of the later style timing chain
and tensioner for the 2.25 litre engine - I went with this as my timing
chain components were all pretty well shot - I'd have to replace the
whole mess anyway.
    The new chain is much shorter than the original, in fact you have to
slide both sprockets and the chain on as an assembly to get it
together.  The cam sprocket has only one slot, so setting the cam timing
is simple, unlike the trial and error of the original sprocket.  The
"anti-slap pad thingie" is the same "Reynolds Tensioner" used on many
British engines of the era.  It is pushed against the slack side of the
chain by oil pressure acting on a piston, is kept there by a small
spring and rachet mechanism.  It's not all that different from the
tensioner that acts on the original little idler wheel in design, just
simpler and probably less likely to fall apart.  In any event mine has
gone 10K miles now without any noise or problems.
Best Wishes,
Erik van Dyck
Suwanee, Georgia
'73 Ser III  88"

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From: GElam30092 <GElam30092@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 17:47:26 EST
Subject: flashers

<<Way cheaper than four-way flashers is a xenon strobe or even a 
bubble-type flashing light that can be temporarily affixed to the 
coachroof. >>

These are very popular in Brazil.  I noticed a couple of small cars with them
mounted just below bumper level this past weekend when returning to Sao Paulo.
They weren't distracting at all.  I wonder what the law in the US is regarding
this type of application?

Later,
Gerry Elam
PHX AZ

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From: IBEdwardp <IBEdwardp@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 18:49:44 EST
Subject: Sighting

February "Esquire" came today.  On page 24, bottom right, is a review by Cal
Fussman of Fielding's "The World's Most Dangerous Places."  Sho nuff, the
accompaning photograph of a jungle trail was taken from the cockpit of a
Discovery at the rear of another Discovery.  Looks like Camel Trophy stuff,
roof racks, windscreen deflectors, etc.  That the photo is from a Discovery is
a no-brainer since the LR logo and the letters DISCOV are clearly on the
windscreen.  Wonder why the letters face in instead of out?

Ed Bailey
66 SIIa SWB (No name)
Somewhere in East Tennessee

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 17:59:05 -0600
From: mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marcus Tooze)
Subject: Re: Sighting

DISCOV are clearly on the
> windscreen.  Wonder why the letters face in instead of out?

So when you look in your rear view mirror from a car in front, it
reads correctly? Kinda like ambulance on the front of an ambulance.
Thats a gues, btw, I don't have a mirror w/ me!

Marcus

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From: Kathleen Hollington <kholling@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Best source of brake parts for Canada?
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 20:11:23 -0500 (EST)

Hi,
Where do Canadian owners of Series IIA vehicles get their
brake parts?  I have to do a substantial brake job on
mine in the Spring, and need to acquire a bunch of parts.
I know of Atlantic British Parts of Canada Ltd, in 
Waterloo Quebec, but am wondering if there exists an 
alternative supplier of brake parts in Canada.  I expect
that going to a US supplier would not be wise given the
relative value of the CDN dollar these days.  If I am ordering
$400-500 worth of brake parts, is it worth ordering from
England?  Anyone have tips as far as that goes?
Thanks and regards,
	--Robert
p.s. I am wondering if I may be better off to order a brake
line flaring tool for british lines, and make the lines
myself, as opposed to buy them ready made.  Cost/benefit?
-- 
Robert St-Louis -- OTTAWA/CANADA -- '68 IIA SWB LR -- 
  kholling@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca.NOSPAM (remove NOSPAM when replying)

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 22:35:33 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Anti-slap pad thingie

Erik Van Dyck wrote:
>     Regarding the Rover's North option of the later style timing chain
> and tensioner for the 2.25 litre engine - I went with this as my timing
> chain components were all pretty well shot - I'd have to replace the
> whole mess anyway.
>     The new chain is much shorter than the original, in fact you have to
> slide both sprockets and the chain on as an assembly to get it
> together.  The cam sprocket has only one slot, so setting the cam timing
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 21 lines)]
> Suwanee, Georgia
> '73 Ser III  88"

 And I'll bet it's gonna go another 10k lookin alot better now that 
you've got a rear lens on that beast of yours ;-)

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 23:01:50 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Best source of brake parts for Canada?

Kathleen Hollington wrote:
> Hi,
> Where do Canadian owners of Series IIA vehicles get their
> brake parts?  I have to do a substantial brake job on
> mine in the Spring, and need to acquire a bunch of parts.
> I know of Atlantic British Parts of Canada Ltd, in
> Waterloo Quebec, but am wondering if there exists an
> alternative supplier of brake parts in Canada.  I expect
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 21 lines)]
> Robert St-Louis -- OTTAWA/CANADA -- '68 IIA SWB LR --
>   kholling@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca.NOSPAM (remove NOSPAM when replying)

Being able to make your own brake lines is a treat! No more waiting for 
them in the mail. Much less expensive as well.

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 23:19:42 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: No Chinese Help Here!!

Well, I haven't had such a big laugh in a long time! I'm going to have to 
send my address to the Chan fellow and convince him to send the LR to me 
to fix ;-)

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 22:14:25 -0500
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: fuel tank level units

Axel writes
- Sender:	It's the flat topped, two connection type. One connection
		is to one of the screws, the other runs back to the gauge.
		Resistance between the sender's connections is 53 Ohms (three
		quarters full, I guess).
		When shortened here, the gauge fully deflects, again. So cable 
		seems to be ok.
I think there is something wrong here, the petrol tank unit ha s only one
connector, it is grounded through the case.
 A diesel tank unit has 2 connectors, one for low fuel level warning.Thjis
should not be grounded, perhaps the wire is connected to the wrong terminal.
My advice is to remove theunit and measure the resistance st each connector
at full and empty positions to determine which is basically an on/off switch
at low level.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 21:07:15 -1000
From: kiotee@mcn.net (Roy Caldwell)
Subject: Re: Sighting

Letters on the inside because they flopped the neg. 

Roy - Have Camera will travel - Just ask the Army

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Subject: Re: Wiper Motor Problems
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 98 19:52:04 -0800
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>

>There's a high speed setting????  I have never had a high, does this mean 
;mine needs work???
>James Small
;denver, colorado
;66IIA SWB SW

Well let's see.  The dual motor wystem is a variable speed system.  It 
requires a wet windscreen, and warm soft grease to reach max speed.

The early single motor system is a single speed motor.  This motor is 
rectangular.  

Around '69ish they started installing the round bodied dual speed motore 
in North American spec LRs.

TeriAnn Wakeman 
Santa Cruz, California

NOTE NEW E-MAIL ADDRESS twakeman@cruzers.com

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Subject: Re: fuel tank level units
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 98 19:57:06 -0800
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>

>Axel writes
;>- Sender:	It's the flat topped, two connection type. One connection
;>		is to one of the screws, the other runs back to the gauge.
;>		Resistance between the sender's connections is 53 Ohms (three
;>		quarters full, I guess).
;>		When shortened here, the gauge fully deflects, again. So cable 
;>		seems to be ok.
;>I think there is something wrong here, the petrol tank unit ha s only 
one
;>connector, it is grounded through the case.
;> A diesel tank unit has 2 connectors, one for low fuel level 
warning.Thjis
;>should not be grounded, perhaps the wire is connected to the wrong 
terminal.
;>My advice is to remove theunit and measure the resistance st each 
connector
;>at full and empty positions to determine which is basically an on/off 
switch
;>at low level.
;>Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
;> 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

Some senders also have a ground lug.  The new replacemnts made by Lucas 
has the lug for the guage, a low level warning light lug and a ground 
lug.  I have that kind on each of my three petrol tanks.  They are all 
newish genuine Lucas sender units.

TeriAnn Wakeman 
Santa Cruz, California

NOTE NEW E-MAIL ADDRESS twakeman@cruzers.com

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 23:33:13 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Stuck clutch

Brad Krohn wrote:

>I found the clutch plate had adhered itself to its distaff side....

Easy.  Put it in four wheel (to lessen the strain on just the rear axle), 
point it in a safe direction and start it up in gear.  While it bucks and 
lunges, work the clutch pedal.  When the clutch breaks free, it'll make the 
same chilling sound as a layshaft fracturing - guaranteed to get the 
adrenalin up.  If first doesn't work, try higher gears.  Extreme conditions: 
start it up whilst chained to a tree.

Cheers

      *---"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                  | 
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
      |   "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas"   |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730    |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056    |
      |                                                    |
      *---1972 Series III 88"-----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 23:54:02
From: David Kurzman <kurzman@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Stuck clutch

Sandy grice said:
  "first doesn't work, try higher gears.  Extreme conditions: 
start it up whilst chained to a tree."  (end)

You sure don't hear this kind of stuff over at the Jaguar group at
a British car gathering! 
Pete

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Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 00:25:53 -0500
From: Art Maravelis <amjas@gis.net>
Subject: Series 3 coonversions

Greetings,

I've been following the list for some time to gather info on a conversion
for my '72 S3 88. I'm in Boston and would like to locate owners with similar
(or not) conversions.

My stock 2.25 is getting tired and a cheaper, readily available, more
powerful American motor is in order. I need better highway speeds, EFI piece
of mind and generally more grunt with minimal fuss and NO outward body
change. My off-roading is minimal but I don't want something totally inept.
My options are now limited to the following:

....motor........................................trans......................
.........adaptor

1. Chevy 4-cyl (Iron Duke type)....stock..............................Scotty
2. Chevy 4-cyl (Iron Duke type)....Chevy 5-spd..................???
3. Ford Explorer 4.0L
V6...............stock..............................Steve Parker
4. Ford Explorer 4.0L V6...............Ford 5-spd.....................???
5. Chevy V6..................................stock/Chevy 5-spd.........???

Thoughts:

1. Cheap, good power (up to 110hp I think), drop in installation. The
adaptor is however $600 but it's a proven design. Concern: is it powerful
enough for towing possibly to be done later on? 

2. I'd rather fit this tranny for piece of mind and to remove my Fairey OD
now fitted as this is a weak link anyway. Problem: an adapter for the
transfer case. A custom one would have to be made. Where? Who?

3. Much better power (180hp), EFI (really needed), very good fit (plenty of
room left around it). Problem: Steve Parker's Ford V6 adaptors do not
readily fit the American version of this engine - although both are Cologne
types. I'm waiting to hear of a customer of his in N.Carolina attempting to
make it compatible.

4. I'd again rather fit this tranny: stronger and bye-bye Fairey! Again the
problem is locating a transfer case adaptor. Now, I know Marks make such
adaptors for the Ford Toploader and C4, C10 trannies. Do these bolt to the
Explorer motor? If they do I think I have a potential winner here.

5. I'll be visiting John Deneke in NJ who's done this conversion. Who knows?
I really don't care if it's a Ford or Chevy - they're both plentiful,
disposable and cheap to keep.

Speaking of transfer case adaptors - I've noticed that these can be just as
expensive as bellhousing adaptors. Why? Surely they're easier to design and
make.

Again any leads to owners who've ACTUALLY done such conversions would be
appreciated. I'm compiling quite a bit of info but nothing beats the real thing.

Thanks,
Art
'72 S3 88
Boston, MA  USA

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Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 01:05:11 +0000
From: "T. F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu>
Subject: (Fwd) Camel Trophy participation

Please reply to vaidotas@cc.hut.fi as well as to the list.  I get 
this question a lot.  Is there a list of CT national contacts 
somewhere?  This one is from Finland.  TIA.
------- Forwarded Message Follows -------
> From:          Vaidotas Zvirblys <vaidotas@cc.hut.fi>

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 21 lines)]
> tomills@du.edu                 http://www.du.edu/~tomills
> University of Denver Library, Denver, Colorado 80208, USA

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From: "Steve & Leona Campbell" <campbell@zeta.org.au>
Subject: PTO Eh?
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 20:09:42 +1100

> From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
> Subject: Take Off, Eh?
> Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 16:43:53 -0800
> I have often wonder what is out their to attach to that big hole in my
> rear cross-member, (The hole that's supposed to be there)  or the dog at
> the front for that matter.
> Just what do people run off of their Power-Take-Off's?

I have a S1 with the original rear PTO setup (less the shafts) The huge
steel bracket on the back of S1s is to attach various types of farm
machinery, I have seen one with a grass cutter and one with a portable
timber mill, though not operating. Below is a website which shows the
standard PTO belt drive thing used just like the belt system on old steam
engines. Hope this helps a bit!  
http://www.sofcom.com.au/4WD/Landy/Series/S1.LRR/pto.html
When I build my 'cabin in the woods'  I would like to get hold of the
timber mill setup and a log splitter, I think I have a few years to look
around!
Cheers, Steve
PS a lot of people I know run the exhaust pipe through this hole in the
chassis to keep it up and safe.

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