L-R Mailing Lists 1948-1998 Land Rover's 50th Anniversary

Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents


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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

msgSender linesSubject
1 Easton Trevor [Trevor_Ea13Moose Test and Land Rover
2 "\"Mr. Mike\" Passaretti27British Wiring
3 kelliott@intranet.ca (Ke32Re: timingh chain
4 john cranfield [john.cra18Re: timingh chain
5 Axel Pawlik [axelpawlik@60Fuel Gauge
6 kelliott@intranet.ca (Ke17Re: timingh chain
7 john cranfield [john.cra20Re: Fuel Gauge
8 Peter [nosimport@mailbag24Re: Fuel Gauge
9 NADdMD [NADdMD@aol.com> 21Re: timingh chain
10 NADdMD [NADdMD@aol.com> 15Re: Fuel Gauge
11 CIrvin1258 [CIrvin1258@a20Re: That diesel experience...
12 CIrvin1258 [CIrvin1258@a34Dead gearbox - AGAIN!
13 Clayton Kirkwood [kirkwo24Re: That diesel experience...
14 MurphyK1@psgvl.ps.ge.com20Series I Web Pages
15 jon collins [jonathan.co13Rear PTO
16 Paul Quin [Paul_Quin@pml32Take Off, Eh?
17 "LT J Jackson" [lt_j_jac23RE- SIII heater motor
18 Mike Johnson [johnsonm@b26Re: RE- SIII heater motor
19 CIrvin1258 [CIrvin1258@a14Re: That diesel experience...
20 chanchao@cm-sun.cm.ksc.c7subscribe
21 TeriAnn Wakeman [twakema60[not specified]
22 Brad Krohn/Deb Shannon [34Carbs and clutch plates
23 "Huub Pennings" [HPS@fs118 Re: Carbs and clutch plates
24 "Huub Pennings" [HPS@fs114 rusting aluminium
25 "Richard Marsden"[rmarsd40Re: Fuel Gauge
26 "Richard Marsden"[rmarsd20Re: Take Off, Eh?


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From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Subject: Moose Test and Land Rover
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 08:10:00 -0500

The latest LRO has a segment about the "Moose Test" and LR's engineers
viewing the video of the Discovery. The gist of the story is that the
test wasn't very scientific and was poorly conducted. I wonder if they
use lab facilities from Consumer Reports or NBC!!! .
OK Fred, as you pass the barrier and turn left, I'll fire the mortar and
you'll roll right on over. We can get rid of the smoke in the edit suite
afterwards. Nobody will notice a thing unless they play the tape slowly"

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Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 09:28:35 -0600
From: "\"Mr. Mike\" Passaretti" <passaretti@sol.med.ge.com>
Subject: British Wiring

>>>>> "Ned" == Ned Heite <eheite@dmv.com> writes:

    Ned> One quibble: The harness does not include little stub
    Ned> wires, like the six-inch one from the choke handle
    Ned> switch to the connector at the bulkhead for the
    Ned> second temperature sensor. I don't understand why
    Ned> they didn't include that little piece (white with
    Ned> brown, bullet connector on one end and quick
    Ned> disconnect right-angled spade on the other).

It's been my experience with this particular company that they
enjoy constructive feedback.  I commented about a portion of
a P-1800 harness and they sent me a re-worked piece at their
expense and seemed thrilled that I had helped them improve
their product line.  YMMV.

    Ned> The harnesses are perfectly fitted. Stick the ends
    Ned> through the proper holes and branches will fall in
    Ned> exactly the right place. Impressive.

I agree.  These folks do their homework.
							-MM

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Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 13:04:08 -0500 (EST)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re: timingh chain

>Damn writes. 
>I noticed in the R#$^s N*&^h catalog that there seem to be two types of
>timing chain tensioners, one with a wheel and a different type with a pad. 
>The wheel type is the one that I've seen in Haynes and other books and on
>my engine.  The pad type is listed the catalog as an update. 
>Can anyone help me out with advantages or disadvantages of either type?

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
>Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
> 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

Hi Bill...

   Sounds like you are thinking of the anti-slap pad thingy... RN has what I
was told is a newer version that does away with the hydraulic/spring loaded
wheel and replaces it with somekind of pad. I didn't take a look at it as I
already have a new timing chain to use with the wheel type. I was told that
it uses a different chain than the wheel type. I don't know for sure but I
would imagine that you would still need the anti-slap dohicky if the newer
system was used.

TTYL

Keith
1961 Series II 88"
Ottawa
Now with electricty, heat, and water!!!!!!!

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Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 14:18:18 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: timingh chain

Keith Elliott wrote:
> >Damn writes.
> >I noticed in the R#$^s N*&^h catalog that there seem to be two types of
>          [ truncated by lro-lite (was 15 lines)]
> >chain. The picture in the manual, when you get it, will make it all plain.
> >Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
> > 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 25 lines)]
> Ottawa
> Now with electricty, heat, and water!!!!!!!
I 'm glad you are back on but is the water all in the right place?
     John and Muddy

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Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 18:18:27 +0000
From: Axel Pawlik <axelpawlik@tinet.ie>
Subject: Fuel Gauge

Folks,

  the fuel gauge on my '68 S II A, suffix D (negative earth), will 
not work. 

  So I took to the archives, and found good advice. What I
found out today:

- Gauge: 	Sits still when taking off the sender cable.
		With cable on, power on, the needle moves just
		a tiny bit from rock bottom to the middle of
		the E (as in Empty).
		When shorting the sender connection to earth,
		the needle has full deflection.

		Seems OK to me.

- Voltage stabilizer:
		Seems to work ok. The temperatur gauge is working,
		although it doesn't have full deflection (well, it's
		winter after all, it seems trustworthy).
		The digital voltmeter tells me all sorts of voltages
		between 3 and 13 V, seems to center around 10 V though.
		I did not see any screw for adjustments.
		
		Seems OK to me.

- Sender:	It's the flat topped, two connection type. One connection
		is to one of the screws, the other runs back to the gauge.
		Resistance between the sender's connections is 53 Ohms (three
		quarters full, I guess).
		When shortened here, the gauge fully deflects, again. So cable 
		seems to be ok.

		Seems OK to me.

What am I missing? I saw the strong hints towards earthing the sender. Did
that,
didn't achieve anything.

Apart from this, I detected one missing screw sender to tank. The
area was appropriately oily...

And now I know for sure why the speedo doesn't work despite the PO's
"new cable": I took it off the speedo, out of curiosity, and tried to
give it a gentle twist with the fingers. Oops. There it is. The driving
bit was not attached to more than an inch of cable. Must be the slight 
twist in the outer cable after entering the dash, that killed it. Hmm.

And what do I need a heater: Driving a bit with the lid removed off the
center seat spoiled me with a bit of warm air off the engine... :-)

	cheers, and a happy new year to all of you!

			Axel

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Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 13:23:38 -0500 (EST)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re: timingh chain

>Keith Elliott wrote:
>> >Damn writes.
>> >I noticed in the R#$^s N*&^h catalog that there seem to be two types of
>	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 25 lines)]
>> Ottawa
>> Now with electricty, heat, and water!!!!!!!
>I 'm glad you are back on but is the water all in the right place?
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>I 'm glad you are back on but is the water all in the right place?
>     John and Muddy

Yep, just where it is supposed to be :)

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Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 14:30:14 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge

Axel Pawlik wrote:
> Folks,
>   the fuel gauge on my '68 S II A, suffix D (negative earth), will
> not work.
>   So I took to the archives, and found good advice. What I
> found out today:

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 57 lines)]
>         cheers, and a happy new year to all of you!
>                         Axel
  The resistance of the sender should change as it moves. In the full
position it should have no resistance. Do you have continuity in the
wire from the gauge to the sender? Are you sure that your improvised
ground was OK? Often the tank itself will lose ground.
        John and Muddy

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Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 12:31:17 -0800
From: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge

Axel Pawlik wrote:
> Folks,
>   the fuel gauge on my '68 S II A, suffix D (negative earth), will
> not work.
>   So I took to the archives, and found good advice. What I
> found out today:

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 57 lines)]
>         cheers, and a happy new year to all of you!
>                         Axel
Axel,
	Did you take out the fuel sender? Sounds like a mechanical hang-up  or
a drowned float to me. (been there trying to resusitate my drowned
float.) Dry it out and seal with glue.  Cheers   Peter
-- 
World Wide Auto Parts of Madison
2517 Seiferth Rd. Madison WI USA 53716
(608)223-9400  fax 223-9403 WATS (800)362-1025
http://www.mailbag.com/users/nosimport/

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From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 13:10:50 EST
Subject: Re: timingh chain

In a message dated 1/19/98 1:07:34 PM Eastern Standard Time,
kelliott@intranet.ca writes:

<<  Sounds like you are thinking of the anti-slap pad thingy... RN has what I
 was told is a newer version that does away with the hydraulic/spring loaded
 wheel and replaces it with somekind of pad. I didn't take a look at it as I
 already have a new timing chain to use with the wheel type. I was told that
 it uses a different chain than the wheel type. >>

The chain difference is that it is shorter since the idler wheel is left out
of the circuit with the new style pad tensioner.  When I looked into it, it
was cheaper to go with the old setup with a new spring.  If the spring loaded
tensioner needed replacing, it would be cheaper with the new set up.

Nate

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From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 13:25:21 EST
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge

In a message dated 1/19/98 1:22:24 PM Eastern Standard Time,
axelpawlik@tinet.ie writes concerning fuel sending unit:

<< What am I missing? I saw the strong hints towards earthing the sender. Did
 that,
 didn't achieve anything. >>

Check that the float ball does. (Float that is)
Nate

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From: CIrvin1258 <CIrvin1258@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 13:34:33 EST
Subject: Re: That diesel experience...

TeriAnn wrote
"...once you get the engine up th the torque curve, the petrol engine has the
advantage. The much maligned 6cyl has the advantage all the time."

Not exactly...what everybody forgets, is that the much maligned 6cyl also
weighs quite a bit more than the 4cyl, and from listening to a friend that had
one, there's only a 11hp difference, that is lost when considering the added
weight with both the engine, and the fact that it was installed in the 109
(which can be considerable if you have a hardtop that has lots of glass in it)
He had this truck for 2 years, and decided that it wasn't worth it. It's a
good engine, but it's too heavy for what it does. (the typical ramp tug at LAX
has a more powerful, more torquey 6cyl engine, that weighs much less)

Charles

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From: CIrvin1258 <CIrvin1258@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 13:44:51 EST
Subject: Dead gearbox - AGAIN!

Guess it isn't my year...

As some of you have read, I "threw" together a gearbox for my 109 a few weeks
ago. However, it desiced (after 4 days) that it didn't want to work anymore. I
still have all forward gears, but no reverse, and on the lower 3 I have a
bearing whine.

I checked the oil level (the dipstick is very nice) only to find that it was
empty! So, I refilled it, and refilled it, and refilled it (still no
indication on the dipstick that there was anything in it), and finally I
looked under the truck, to see a big puddle of oil!

I don't see any cracks in the casing, though the oil is coming out between the
gearbox, and the transfer case. I would imagine, that the rear seal isn't
working (I hope!), and the oil is moving from the gearbox, into the transfer
case, and then overflowing. As for reverse, and the other noise, probably just
a few bearings.

I didn't write this sooner, because my company desiced to send me off to
Chicago at a moments' notice, whereupon I rented a Blazer (no Discos for
rent), and drove to Ceaderburg,Wi., to visit friends.

BTW - the Blazer sucks off road, AND on!

I'll take the gearbox out this week (weather permitting), since I'm on
vacation, and see what there is to see.

Charles

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Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 11:03:21 -0800
From: Clayton Kirkwood <kirkwood@kirkwood-desk.fm.intel.com>
Subject: Re: That diesel experience...

At 01:34 PM 1/19/98 EST, CIrvin1258 wrote:
>TeriAnn wrote
>"...once you get the engine up th the torque curve, the petrol engine has the
>advantage. The much maligned 6cyl has the advantage all the time."
>Not exactly...what everybody forgets, is that the much maligned 6cyl also
>weighs quite a bit more than the 4cyl, and from listening to a friend that had

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
>has a more powerful, more torquey 6cyl engine, that weighs much less)
>Charles

So Charles,

Does this mean that we might be able to obtain (through you of course!!) one
of these ramp tug engines? Have you tried one in a Rover?? This might be the
best of all situations!!   ;>)

Clayton
>TeriAnn wrote

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From: MurphyK1@psgvl.ps.ge.com
Subject: Series I Web Pages
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 17:09:09 -0500

Someone requested websites for Series I's.

Here are two:

http://www.sofcom.com.au/4WD/Landy/Series/S1.LRR/Intro.html

and

http://131.181.75.10:80/~rwalker/series1/series1.htm

Kevin
(Greenville, SC USA)
'67 SIIA 88"
http://members.carol.net/murphyk/index/rover.html

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Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 23:08:59 +0000
From: jon collins <jonathan.collins@virgin.net>
Subject: Rear PTO

Although I only have experience of front PTO's as connected to the old
mans 88" IIA. I beleive that Steve Downing, the chairman of the Series 2
club here in Britain collects PTO's and related machinery. I can pass
your query onto him if that would be of help.

Jon (currently looking for a new toy)
SIIA 88" (belonging to the 0ld Man, who also happenes to be SII Kent
rep)

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: Take Off, Eh?
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 16:43:53 -0800

I have often wonder what is out their to attach to that big hole in my
rear cross-member, (The hole that's supposed to be there)  or the dog at
the front for that matter.

Just what do people run off of their Power-Take-Off's?

I have seen lots of farm implements & snow plows in the various Land
Rover books, but most of these pictures seemed to be taken at the Land
Rover Special Vehicles test ground.  Did any of these tools make it out
of the experimental barn into common use?

I have also seen a few welding units on the back of series ones. 

A buddy has a front winch on his 88", made by Koning Iron Works, that
looks like it could winch a freight train up a mountain.  It is a front
mounted winch that runs off of the rear tranny PTO.  The drive shaft
snakes from the back of the tranny around the left side of the engine to
the winch.  Any body know anything about these?

I've also seen hydraulic pumps designed to run of the PTO's.  What uses
are there for these?  I've seen hydraulic winches, and snow plow blade
lifters.

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88 under construction
Victoria, BC  Canada

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Date: 19 Jan 1998 20:07:58 -0400
From: "LT J Jackson" <lt_j_jackson@unixlink.uscga.edu>
Subject: RE-  SIII heater motor

Dave:

I've got one (fan/motor, no cage).  High speed works fine, but the contact
point for the low speed setting needs soldering.    As if you care - "Damn,
it's hot in here.  Set the fan on low".  Har har har. 

e-mail me offline.

Jeff
Waterford, CT

anybody out there have a late IIa/SIII smiths heater motor that works? 
mine's pretty bad.
I'd take it w/the fan if its available.

thanks
DaveB
arlington VA

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Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 21:24:10 -0500
From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: Re: RE-  SIII heater motor

>anybody out there have a late IIa/SIII smiths heater motor that works? 
>mine's pretty bad.
>I'd take it w/the fan if its available.

>DaveB

Dave,
Mine just replaced the stock "2cfm" fan motor with an inline fan/motor and
housing.  It will nearly rip your skin off.  I have come to the conclusion
that the core is fine in our Landies, but the blower motor "sucks wind".  I
had to replace the hose as the 240cfm fan/motor I bought ($40 + shipping)
has a 4in in/outlet and tapered it down to 3in for the core box.  Now with
my block heater and new blower I can have a clear windscreen by the end of
the block.

E-mail me for more info.

Mike Johnson
'74 SIII 88 (Chester) 
johnsonm@borg.com
http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm

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From: CIrvin1258 <CIrvin1258@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 21:59:43 EST
Subject: Re: That diesel experience...

Hahaha,

The tugs usually have Ford engines. I don't know exactly what the displacement
is, but I know that they're old (dating to the '50's) engines. You can try
putting one in a Rover if you like - but I'm a purist. If I do an engine swap,
I'd rather go with the 200/300 Tdi's.

Charles

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From: chanchao@cm-sun.cm.ksc.co.th
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 10:43:11 +0000
Subject: subscribe

subscribe LRO

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Subject: Re: That diesel experience...
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 98 21:11:00 -0800
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>

Ah, The much maligned LR 6 being maligned again!

>TeriAnn wrote
;"...once you get the engine up th the torque curve, the petrol engine 
has the
>advantage. The much maligned 6cyl has the advantage all the time."
;
>Not exactly...what everybody forgets, is that the much maligned 6cyl also
;weighs quite a bit more than the 4cyl, and from listening to a friend 
that 
>had
;one, there's only a 11hp difference, that is lost when considering the 
added
>weight with both the engine, and the fact that it was installed in the 109
;(which can be considerable if you have a hardtop that has lots of glass 
in 
>it)
>He had this truck for 2 years, and decided that it wasn't worth it. It's a
;good engine, but it's too heavy for what it does. (the typical ramp tug 
at 
;LAX
;>has a more powerful, more torquey 6cyl engine, that weighs much less)
;
;Charles

Charles, If you read the specs I copied out of the manual, the six 
cylinder has a whole 95 HP compaired to the four cylinder's 81 HP.  Thats 
a whopping 14 HP difference ;*)

But there is also a 10 lb ft torque difference too.  From my experience 
it makes more of a difference than I thought it would.

I have a 109 two door with full Dormobile equipment plus some. I have a 
petrol four cylinder, 8:1 compression with a fairly fresh valve job.  My 
friend John Hess has a four door Dormobile with the European LR 6 
cylinder engine. I think our cars are close in weight.  When we go on 
trips together I can not keep up with him on hills. last Aug, I was in 
front of him on a hill and had to drop down to third.  I was floored at 
3800 RPM in third while he drove right on past with a big smile holding 
up four fingers to signify that he was in fourth.

The 6 may be fourties technology; it may be heavy; but it outperforms a 
petrol 8:1 four cylinder and its got the deisel's specifications beat all 
to heck clear accross the RPM band.  

Personally, I wouldn't put a LR 6 in a LR that didn't have one from the 
factory, but I sure wouldn't take one out to replace it with a LR four 
cylinder.

Frankly. I thought Rover did the right thing by replacing their petrol 
engines with a Buick V8.

TeriAnn Wakeman 
Santa Cruz, California

NOTE NEW E-MAIL ADDRESS twakeman@cruzers.com

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From: Brad Krohn/Deb Shannon <rover@europa.com>
Subject: Carbs and clutch plates
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 23:57:49 -0800

My 69 IIA 88" (Bug-Eyed Brick) has been sitting for a while now (you can =
blame the 93 RR LWB).

When I went to move it out of the weather, I found the clutch plate had =
adhered itself to its distaff side. I remember at one time seeing a few =
tips and tricks for getting the plates to pop apart -- can anyone =
refresh my memory?

Second part: Before putting her to bed for a while (please, I am not =
"putting her to sleep..."), I'd been having similar symptoms to one  of =
the other recent posts -- coughing, stalling, backfiring after running =
for a while. My diagnosis was potentially stuck float. I'm comfortable =
with most jobs, but carbs aren't one of them. I might feel more =
comfortable if I could find a good diagram of the Weber 34ICH "single =
sucker." The Haynes only shows Zenith and Solex. Anyone know where I =
could locate one?

Cheers,
Brad
Hillsboro, OR / USA
69 IIA 88" Bug-Eye
93 RR County LWB
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D
"Rover? Who drives it?" -- The Prisoner
"That would be telling"   -- #2
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D

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From: "Huub Pennings" <HPS@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 09:22:01 +0100
Subject:       Re: Carbs and clutch plates

Start her in firs, and with gear engaged and clutch pedal to the 
floor, run her into a solid object, this should shake her free. You 
might want to check whether their is some movement in the slave 
mechanism when you floor the pedal first.

Just my two cents worth............
Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

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From: "Huub Pennings" <HPS@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 09:27:28 +0100
Subject:       rusting aluminium

My dear car "Rusty" has some white "rust" in her aluminium parts.
What is the best approach to stop/neutralize and cure this?
Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

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From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 08:38:49 +0000
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge

>    Did you take out the fuel sender? Sounds like a mechanical hang-up  or
a drowned float to me. (been there trying to resusitate my drowned
>float.) Dry it out and seal with glue.  Cheers   Peter
Been there too!  Gave me a fright when I saw the gauge reading zero, when
it should have read full! (of course'd have noticed it had been leaking
before I'd got in, but still...)
My hole was a tiny crack, so I had to open the hole slightly in order to
drain the petrol out. Then I used a small amount of epoxy.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

nosimport@mailbag.com on 01/19/98 08:31:17 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Re: Fuel Gauge

Axel Pawlik wrote:
> Folks,
>   the fuel gauge on my '68 S II A, suffix D (negative earth), will
      [ truncated by lro-lite (was 57 lines)]
> center seat spoiled me with a bit of warm air off the engine... :-)
>         cheers, and a happy new year to all of you!
>                         Axel
Axel,
     Did you take out the fuel sender? Sounds like a mechanical hang-up  or
a drowned float to me. (been there trying to resusitate my drowned
float.) Dry it out and seal with glue.  Cheers   Peter
--
World Wide Auto Parts of Madison
2517 Seiferth Rd. Madison WI USA 53716
(608)223-9400  fax 223-9403 WATS (800)362-1025

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From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 09:01:17 +0000
Subject: Re: Take Off, Eh?

Well, I've always fancied a side-exit PTO with the Boedicca (Pat. Pend.)
Attachment, for those rush hour traffic blues....

:-)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

>I have often wonder what is out their to attach to that big hole in my
>rear cross-member, (The hole that's supposed to be there)  or the dog at
>the front for that matter.
>Just what do people run off of their Power-Take-Off's?
>Paul Quin
>1961 Series II 88 under construction
>Victoria, BC  Canada

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