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Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 12:00:36 +0000
From: Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Subject: Looking for an Aeroparts winch part

I'm looking for a part for my Aeroparts Capstan winch:

I'm looking for the plate that sits on the end of the winch propshaft and
connects to the plate on the end of the crankshaft.  The plate has 6 holes
in a circular arangement and the center is machined for a splined shaft.

-- 

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)
    Medicine & Veterinary medicine Support Team,
    University Computing Services, 
    Edinburgh University. 
    Phone: +44 131 650 3027

Personal Web pages: <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 07:37:32 -0500
From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Subject: stowing a jack

In answer to:
>3.  Where, in an 88, can one mount a 48" Hi-Lift jack?   I don't have a roof
>rack (car barely fits into garage as it is).   Thanks in advance.

In my 88, the high-lift jack is almost exactly the length of the space
between the back door and the bulkhead behind the seat. My jack lives quite
comfortably in this space, under the lip of the fold-down seat. I drilled a
half-inch hole in the face of the sheet metal and ran a half-inch bolt
through the inside of the fender well. This is secured by a nut in the
passenger compartment. Then the bolt passes through one of the holes in the
jack post and through a convenient hole in the base. A wing nut holds the
jack in place. I have it positioned so that the jack is resting on the
floor and nothing rattles. The base serves to hold the jack securely in
place.

Ned Heite

------------------------------

From: "Chris Dillard"<cdillard@Aholdusa.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 09:25:53 -0500
Subject: Front Recovery Point

Just wandered if anyone knew the best place and type of front recovery
point to mount on a 91 RR and a good source of recovery straps?

Thanks
Chris
91 RR County SWB

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 11:37:02 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Series Driver Tool Kit

Jeffrey A. Berg wrote:
> >A very impressive list of tools , but does anybody carry a long rod for
> >knocking out the axle stub outta the diff when you break a half shaft,
> >and a magnet for retrieving it out of the axle case? Makes the whole job
> >easier than having to take the diff out!
> Having had " big chunk-o-shaft" fall out of the diff during an oil change
> in Ottawa (and this is after I had actually removed and  powerwashed the
> diff after breaking a shaft) I think I'll stick to removing the diff and
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 30 lines)]
>         I can see it no other way.
>                 --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

If, after removing the stub, there is still a piece missing out of the 
axle, I too would remove the diff. I wouldn't leave it in there like your 
PO. but if all matches up, hell, I'll stick er' back together. I haven't 
lost a diff yet because of bits floating about, but running without that 
smelly 80/90 does slow down your forward momentum. ;-)

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"
Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 11:52:12 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: 109's for sale in NA, Was 109 Search Ideas

Paul Quin wrote:
> For those looking for 109's in North America,  The following are for
> sale in Vancouver, BC  Canada (two hours north of Seattle [four hours
> driving a 109]):
> 65 Land Rover 109 3dr. HT 2.2L gas eng. unleaded valves, Weber Carb. 16"
> off set wheels, all new wheel cylinders & brakes, good frame & body,
> runs great, Air Cared (passed local emissions check)  white  $5000.00

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 30 lines)]
> >There is a 109 on the Rovers North BBs alleged to be in excellent shape.
> >     John

I'll add my little bit here. 
Have 1967 109 2 door, tailgate, 16", body pretty good ( one back panel 
has some bondo) sitting on a rusted frame, motor shot, all drive gear 
there, comes with beautiful military frame, do your own refit! $2200.00 
Can. FOB Elmsdale. E-mail me direct.

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"
Canada

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 98 10:46:08 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Series Driver Tool Kit

> but running without that 
>smelly 80/90 does slow down your forward momentum. ;-)

...and there are those who would dispute even that...right dix?

later
DaveB

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 10:13:27 -0600
From: mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marcus Tooze)
Subject: Re: SER: Fitting 200/300TDi to series 3?

> I have been told recently that the 200/300TDi engine will bolt 
> directly into a series3 (previously fitted with 2.25 diesel) with no 
> modifications required to the chassis engine mounts and without the 
> need for any adaptor for the S3 g'box. Is this true?

Yes. My step dads son has a 1962 88 with a 200Td (not i) motor in it.
I be;ieve it pretty much bolted right up.

Marcus 

> I have been told recently that the 200/300TDi engine will bolt 
> directly into a series3 (previously fitted with 2.25 diesel) with no 
> modifications required to the chassis engine mounts and without the 

------------------------------

From: MurphyK1@psgvl.ps.ge.com
Subject: Flywheel Housing Crack
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 11:23:47 -0500

Hi All,

I have just rebuilt my 2.25L Petrol engine on my SIIA 88" (my first
engine rebuild).  The other week I went to clean all the gunk and grease
from the flywheel housing before putting it back on the block and
noticed a crack in it.  The crack was through one of the bolt holes on
the bell housing side.  The crack ran about 2".  I didn't think much
about it at the time.  I just called around and had a replacement mailed
to me with in a week (Rover's North $20 used).

I was going to put the housing and flywheel back on last week when I got
to thinking how the crack might have been caused.  The answer that
jumped to mind was the following:  When I first removed the engine, I
put it on the engine stand via the flywheel housing while I stripped the
engine.  It was on there only a couple of days before I removed the
housing and flywheel and re-bolted the engine block to the stand.  I am
thinking that the weight of the entire engine mounted by only four bolts
to an engine stand was too much stress for the aluminum flywheel
housing.  

Needless to say, I am holding off putting the flywheel and housing back
on the block until I am ready to put the engine back in.  I still don't
know if this is what caused the crack, but better to be safe than sorry.
If you happen to have any info. regarding this I'd be interested to
hear.  Also, if you are planning an engine rebuild you may want to be
careful not to make the same mistake.

Take care,

Kevin (Greenville, SC USA)
'67 SIIA 88"  (Nancy)
http://members.carol.net/murphyk/index/rover.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 11:22:28 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dan Prasada-Rao (301)757-1571x18" <prasadaraodp.nimitz@NAVAIR.NAVY.MIL>
Subject: Series Driver Tool Kit

My pack up kit depends on how far I'm driving.  For local back and forth to
work stuff it consists of a leatherman and spare distributor parts.  For
longer drives it more closely resembles other lists already posted (every
tool and spare part that I can grab).

Dan Rao
'63 109" Station Wagon 

------------------------------

From: MurphyK1@psgvl.ps.ge.com
Subject: LR Home Pages
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 11:29:14 -0500

One more email:

I am in the process of putting together a list of Land Rover links on my
home page.  I have been adding any websites that have shown up on this
list within the last few weeks or so, whether they be personal or
commercial.

If you have a page and would like it added, just include it at the
bottom of any email you send through this list and I will pick it up.
Or, you can email me directly at kevin.murphy@ps.ge.com.  

Thanks,

Kevin (Greenville, SC USA)
'67 SIIA 88"  (Nancy)
http://members.carol.net/murphyk/index/rover.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 10:38:21 -0600
From: mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marcus Tooze)
Subject: Re: LR Home Pages

www.calmit.unl.edu/tooze/carawagon

Marcus

> From owner-lro@playground.sun.com Tue Jan 13 10:39 CST 1998
> From: MurphyK1@psgvl.ps.ge.com
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> X-To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: LR Home Pages
> Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 11:29:14 -0500
> X-Edited-By: LRO-Lite
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 29 lines)]
> '67 SIIA 88"  (Nancy)
> http://members.carol.net/murphyk/index/rover.html

------------------------------

Subject: Re: stowing a jack
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 98 10:45:21 -0000
From: asanna <asanna@sacofoods.com>

>Where, in an 88, can one mount a 48" Hi-Lift jack?

The best place, I've found, is squeezed between the spare and the seat 
bulkhead.  The jack base rests on one of the wheel boxes and the top end 
on the other.  All you have to do then is remount the spare with the same 
bolt that holds it in place and the rubber squeezes the jack tight to the 
bulkhead for a rattle-free ride.  The only extra fabrication involved was 
a couple rubber pads that the two ends of the jack sit on to prevent 
scratching of the wheel wells.  Mine's been riding there, out of the 
weather for the last 27 years.  Oh yes, and the extra space behind the 
bottom of the tire is perfect for other recovery tools as well.

Tony

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Avenue
Middleton, Wisconsin  53562  USA

asanna@sacofoods.com

1-800-373-7226
(608) 238-9101

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 16:49:57 +0000
Subject: Re: stowing a jack

Mine's mounted on the back of the same bulkhead.

I used the "official" mount.  The only thing is that it catches against one
seat, if I have the full set
of rear seats in. (am going to change to 6 seater rear anyway...)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

asanna@sacofoods.com on 01/13/98 10:45:21 AM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Re: stowing a jack

>Where, in an 88, can one mount a 48" Hi-Lift jack?
The best place, I've found, is squeezed between the spare and the seat
bulkhead.  The jack base rests on one of the wheel boxes and the top end
on the other.  All you have to do then is remount the spare with the same
bolt that holds it in place and the rubber squeezes the jack tight to the
bulkhead for a rattle-free ride.  The only extra fabrication involved was
a couple rubber pads that the two ends of the jack sit on to prevent
scratching of the wheel wells.  Mine's been riding there, out of the
weather for the last 27 years.  Oh yes, and the extra space behind the
bottom of the tire is perfect for other recovery tools as well.
Tony

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Avenue
Middleton, Wisconsin  53562  USA
asanna@sacofoods.com
1-800-373-7226
(608) 238-9101

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 17:09:13 +0000
From: Mick Forster <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: LR Home Pages

MurphyK1@psgvl.ps.ge.com wrote:

> One more email:
> I am in the process of putting together a list of Land Rover links on my
> home page.  I have been adding any websites that have shown up on this
> list within the last few weeks or so, whether they be personal or
> commercial.
> If you have a page and would like it added, just include it at the
> bottom of any email you send through this list and I will pick it up.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> bottom of any email you send through this list and I will pick it up.
> Or, you can email me directly at kevin.murphy@ps.ge.com.

 http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/landpics.html

Mick Forster
cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 13:03:35 -0500
From: Garret Scott <scottgs@usit.net>
Subject: More Tyre Chains-The ones I got for My Rangie

I was going to order PeeWags until I found out the price: $1,100.00 plus
shipping for two sets!  I had forgotten, and told them they were for a
Range Rover ;-) 

Anyway, I procured two sets of chains for my Rangie from Quality Chain
Corp., a manufacturer on the net.  They are the "European" diamond
pattern which are supposed to keep the vehicle from sliding sideways
when on glare ice (the only time I've ever needed chains in a Landie).  
They have diagonal cross chains like the Peewags, and are mad of
hardened steel alloy square links. They were very easy to install,
colour coded with a pull chain for tensioning. They also come in a
reasonably nice (it's not industructable) plastic case. I have not
actually used them yet, so I can't make any claim as to thier actual
performance.

The set I got will fit several sizes including LT 225/75R16, 215/85R16
and 9.50x30R15. So I can use them on all of my landies if I needed to.
They were very reasonably priced, $77.00 a set. They shipped very
promptly and were at my door in 8 working days.  Shipping from Oregon to
Tennessee was only $30 for both sets (4 chains).

The site URL is:

http://www.chainquest.com/chains.html#lighttruck

The chains I ordered were:

# 2519E  DiamondBack Alloy Economy Truck Pair

And my sales rep was Cherrish, a very nice and helpful young lady who
had just recently used this type of chain to drive to Tahoe in her
personally owned vehicle (POV).

Garret Scott
scottgs@usit.net

*****STANDARD COMMERCIAL DISCLAIMER FOR SENSITIVE LIST READERS*****

I do hope any commercial content in this post does not offend anyone or
is not considered inappropriate for the list. I just feel it would be
helpful for those of us seeking alternative parts sources for our Land
Rover and UNIMOG vehicles.  I have no connection, other than as a
possible customer, with any of the companies involed.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 12:05:13 -0700 (MST)
From: "DAVID J. TEGART" <tegart@jnov.colorado.edu>
Subject: Dilemma

Hello all-
I am new to the list and am not, in fact, a Land Rover owner yet.  
However, for many years I have been fascinated by them but never 
considered buying one until a few months ago when my fascination 
became an obsession.  I spotted a '59 109" pick up for sale here in 
Boulder.  The fellow selling it wanted $3500 for it.  The body was 
pretty ugly, and it had a home-made top.  However, it ran extremely 
well and started instantly.  It needed a new leaf spring, rear 
crossmember, and some engine work.  Unfortunately, before I could 
scrape together the money to buy it, someone else made off with it. 
The price seemed a little high to me at the time, but since then I 
have been extremely hard pressed to find a running Rover for anything 
near that price.  Just yesterday I saw a classified in the Denver 
Post for a '65 88" IIA for nearly $8000.  In my mind, an $8000 Land 
Rover should be damn near perfect.
	Anyways, I am becoming more frustrated and less enthusiastic. How 
much should a semi-decent, running, series Land Rover cost?  Will I 
be able to afford to maintain one if I can't even afford to buy one?  
How come half the population of Boulder owns a Discovery but I can't 
even afford a 35 year old hunk of four wheel drive aluminum?  So what 
should I do?  Should I just be patient?  Should I buy an old Scout 
instead and bolt the spare to the hood and hope nobody laughs at me?  
Should I move to England?

Thanks for letting me vent,
Dave T.

------------------------------

From: Charlie Dawson <Charlie@Elvis.Conquipinc.com>
Subject: FW: parts for sale
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 10:09:17 -0000

-----Original Message-----
All,
The following parts, from a S2A 109, are for sale.  The vehicle in a 
runner and is at my home in the Sacramento area.  I have a major Chevy 
transplant planned and would like to sell these unneeded items.
-	rear end, drum to drum, good brakes, recent bearings (replaced by a 
Salisbury) - $300
-	front axle shaft assemblies, rh/lh w/u-joints (my spare set) - $200
-	Fairey overdrive, runner - $350
-	In a few months - running 2.6L NADA and transmission, check it out 
now - $??? Make offer
I would welcome anyone who would like to inspect the parts or drive 
the vehicle - which is in one piece at the moment.  I am also open to 
offers on anything listed.  cdawson@conquipinc.com
Chaz

------------------------------

From: Charlie Dawson <Charlie@Elvis.Conquipinc.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 10:22:41 -0000

>Still looking for that magic bullet, 0-60 in 6 seconds, able to climb
>trees, deliver 25 mpg, cost as little to own as my 30 year old series

my answer - 4.3L TBI V6 with a 700R4 overdrive auto 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 14:15:17 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Dilemma

Please adjust your thinking, it's a bit blurry.
If any of us on this list could have forseen how much this affliction was 
going to cost, we'd never have drunk from the cup in the first place. 
Repairing and maintaining old vehicles is expensive, for Land Rovers it's 
ungodly. You do what you have to to support your habit. $3500 for a 
runner 109 is right on the money, if not cheap.
Keep in mind that that $8000.00 2A will probably start sucking money out 
of your wallet a couple of days after you take ownership...accessories, 
tools, spare parts, maybe a second top, an overdrive...it never ends. 
Can I get a witness!!

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 14:10:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Dilemma

Jesus, does this sound familiar...8*)

First off, you are not alone - welcome to the club. Rover owner or not,
you're welcome here.

Second, this is not surprising - these old buckets were never imported into
the US in massive quantities, so people have an overwhelming concept of
their value - and they get the cash they ask for in most cases.

my first Rover was an extremely tired Diesel 109 pickup (with Bondo in the
chassis I found later) that I paid $3500 for. ( months and an equivalent
amount of cash later, Mr. CHurchill appeared and has been a boon companion
ever since.

My to-be-daughter's 88 cost me $500 - but it's getting a full rebuild
before it goes near the road.

Don't buy the Scout - and don't succumb to temptation to pay outrageous
money for junk. You need to look where other people don't - and that's
where you'll find them.

Keep an eye on the local swapper, and talk to Series aficionados in your
area. The grapevine is the best way to find a car - and you need to keep
eyes open everywhere for target-of-opportunity cars. They're out there - it
may not run at first, but they're not a nightmare to fix. Trust me - If I
can keep my 109 on the road, you can do the same.

Email me if you have questions, or post 'em here - we want to help.

               Al Richer/Mr. Churchill

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: Dilemma / expense.
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 11:44:08 -0800

I have to argue the point of Rovers being expensive to repair/maintain.

As far as imports go (speaking from Canada) my '61 88 is the cheapest
vehicle I have owned - by far.

They are cheap because they are simple.  I just bought a brand new
galvanized front bumper for $100.00.  A new front bumper for my '83 BMW
533i would cost 10 times that much, and there's not that much more to it
other than some rubber and turn signals.  I can get a reconditioned
gearbox from Vancouver for less than $500.00 (exchange).  A new front
wing costs $200.00!  Is this expensive? 

Parts are even cheaper if you get together with others or join a club
and import them in bulk from the U.K. 

A friend of mine is restoring an old BMW 3.0CS.  He has thrown more than
$30K at it and it's not even painted yet!
I often taunt him with Land Rover price lists. :-)

Landy's need more work than average to keep them running but most of
that work can be done at home by anyone with a little experience, with
parts that to my mine are relatively inexpensive when compared to other
imports.

Paul Quin
Victoria, BC  Canada

>-----Original Message-----
>From:	Adams, Bill [SMTP:badams@usia.gov]
>Sent:	Tuesday, January 13, 1998 11:15 AM
>To:	lro@playground.sun.com
>Subject:	Re: Dilemma

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 29 lines)]
>'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
>"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 13:44:32 -0600
From: "\"Mr. Mike\" Passaretti" <passaretti@sol.med.ge.com>
Subject: Dilemma

>>>>> "DAVID" == DAVID J TEGART <tegart@jnov.colorado.edu> writes:

    DAVID> Hello all- I am new to the list and am not, in
    DAVID> fact, a Land Rover owner yet.  However, for many
    DAVID> years I have been fascinated by them but never
    DAVID> considered buying one until a few months ago when
    DAVID> my fascination became an obsession.

Boy does this sound familiar.

    DAVID> How much should a semi-decent, running, series Land
    DAVID> Rover cost?  Will I be able to afford to maintain
    DAVID> one if I can't even afford to buy one?  How come
    DAVID> half the population of Boulder owns a Discovery but
    DAVID> I can't even afford a 35 year old hunk of four
    DAVID> wheel drive aluminum?  So what should I do?  Should
    DAVID> I just be patient?  Should I buy an old Scout
    DAVID> instead and bolt the spare to the hood and hope
    DAVID> nobody laughs at me?  Should I move to England?

I don't know the real answers, but I'll tell you this, I'm
thinking about trying to ship one from England myself.  I've
been unable to find anything I can afford recently, and a
new Discovery is just a touch out of my league.  They never
made it over here in quantity, and people think that any tatty
old hunk is worth big bucks.  I'm told that I should "just
keep looking, they crop up", but so far, no go.  
							-MM

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 14:40:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dan Prasada-Rao (301)757-1571x18" <prasadaraodp.nimitz@NAVAIR.NAVY.MIL>
Subject: Dist drive gear/Cam Timing etc.

Does anyone have any good recommendations on how to check the dist drive
gear backlash.  Resetting the dist drive gear sounds like a pain indeed, so
I don't want to pull it without making sure it's necessary first.  Do I
just need to get a small (narrow) feeler gage to get inbetween the cam gear
and dist drive gear?

As for the Cam timing, would it work to just turn the cam in one direction
just until the .010 lifter clearance is gone, mark the cam gear at that
point and then rotate it back the other direction until the same thing
happens.  Half way between the two marks would be the cam lobe peak on one
side and the cam base circle on the other side.  That's the way I've done
it on other engines, it saves the expense of purchasing a dial gage etc.
but probably not quite as accurate.  Pretty much the same method as Jim
Allens.

I've got a question about the cam specs in the Haynes book.  It lists
intake opening at 6deg BTDC closing at 52deg ABDC peak at 113deg, exhaust
open at 34deg BBDC closing at 24deg ATDC peak at 95deg.  These are
crankshaft deg not camshaft degrees right?   Also, I cannot find a listing
for what the lift should be.

One more question.  How much slack, slop, play, or whatever you want to
call it, should there be in the timing chain and associated gearing.  I
think I've got way too much.  I can rock the crank back and forth in a 10
to 15 deg arc with no movement in the cam.  I also noticed that for during
every revolution of the crank, the cam will snap forward in two spots 180
crankshaft deg apart.  It's as if the valve spring pressure is pushing the
lifter down the back side of the cam lobe forcing the cam to rotate forward
and take up the slack in the timing chain or gears.  The cam will then sit
still(no rotation) until the crank takes up the slack.  I thought it might
be the crank pulley or timing gear on the crank, so I dropped the sump to
check things out.  The timing gear on the crank seems to be fine and moves
with the crank without any slop.  I reached up and pushed on the chain
itself between the crank and the tensioner sprocket and got about 1/4" to
3/8" deflection in the plane of rotation. I can also slide the chain
sideways on the gear about 1/8".  I have not idea how much tension the
tensioner is supposed to put on the chain but this seemed like a lot of
play to me for such a short span.  I'd like to know if this sounds normal
or not before I start taking the timing cover off.

Thanks in advance

Dan Rao
'63 109" Station Wagon

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 15:04:06 -0500
From: Jeffrey A Berg <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re: Dilemma

Amen Brother Bill!

While $8000 should get you a mechanically sound vehicle, it's not going to
anywhere near perfect unless you find an extraordinary deal. (Or buy one
that looks perfect--but is mechanically flawed.) If I had to choose, I'd
prefer the former--body work and paint are easy (or unecessary). It's a
shame that you missed out on that 109 because, as flawed as it in all
probability was, that's a sweet price on a 109 that runs decently--and
leaves you with a few dollars to work through the problems it might have.

"Damn near-perfect" Rovers probably start at somewhere around 15K (and
there will still be a bunch of old parts at this price) and can cost as
much as you're willing to pay. I don't know of anyone who actually paid
$40K, but I've heard stories of more than one being on the market for that
figure. And it's no longer surprising to see fresh total restorations with
a 25K asking price. (And while I'd hope at that price, your first year or
two would be limited to routine maintenence, expect to start pouring the
money into it eventually--at rates comparable to the guy who only paid 5K
for his.)

The supply of $500 Rovers (running or not) is dwindling--at least in part
because of the likes of us enthusiasts. That isn't to say that you can't
luck into a sweet deal--just that it's getting harder and harder to come by
solid, running vehicles with decent frames, good trannys and reasonable
body /interior for much less than 5-6K.

Bill C. and I were recently discussing this. We took opposite tacks when
purchasing our Series Vehicles. Mine was professionly (for the sake of
argument we'll leave questionable business practices out of the defintion
of professional) restored before I took delivery. It ran relatively trouble
free for the first two years (aside from half-shafts and the overdrive).
But now I've begun to put money into it. New gas tank. New brake booster.
Yesterday I ordered new brake drums. Over the weekend Al Richer and I spent
quite a bit of time (but no money) running down an electrical fault.
Probably pretty typical. None of this stuff cost a mint, but my "ownership
experience" for this year is going to be more costly than last. So it
goes--it's a labor of love. (And still cheaper than the payments on a
Blazer/Explorer/Suburban/Trooper.)

Bill bought a beater, drove it around for awhile, then undertook a series
of repairs--which turned into a frameover. Details on this project are
available at Repairs/frame-over/index.html

When comparing the two methods, we came to the conclusion that while Bill
hasn't quite put as much money into his beast as I have, he is catching up
fast. And while my costs continue to increase, we are in the same ballpark
for vehicles that, at least at one point in their lives (besides when each
rolled off the assembly line), had a similar degree of "perfection."

Of course, the actual cost of a total restoration can be much lower if you
have the time, inclination and ability to do significant parts of the work
yourself--but you still need to attach some value to that time you spend.
And this isn't to say that you have to make your ride "near-perfect"--there
are a lot of people who enjoy the hell out of their beat up Rovers--but
they probably spend a significant amount of time/dollars (at whatever ratio
they choose) to keep them reliable.

And believe me, as nice as "near-perfect" is, it fades fast--especially if
you take the vehicle offroad. What's left is a seemingly endless ToDo list.

RoverOn!

ja"signing off to go work on FINSUP"b

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life,
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 12:03:02 -0800 (PST)
From: "Paul Gussack" <pcg@tennis.org>
Subject: Re:series tool kit

I wasn't going to reply due to the amount of tools I carry but since seeing
other posts I think i'll beef up
Grendal carries 
under the seat:
Lead additive-running 7:1 lead head still
2qts Oil was 20w50 now 10w40 after rebuild
castrol GTLMA
jumper cables
spare light-mini light popular with music industry-adapted LR test socket to
standard bannana plug
fan belt
rags and towels

In tool box on left rear wheel well
Screw driver set-lights up and has just about every bit known to man
socket set 1/4" and 3/8" metric and US
2" adjustable wrench
1/2" socket with 1 1/16 socket for lugs on tire
assorted angled screwdrivers
screwdriver I fabricated for removing plug in diff drain
electrician plyers
plyers
wire dykes
3 vice grips- various jaw types

Spares in tool box
electrical tape
hand cleaner
spool of wire 16 gauge
various nut and bolts
every spare engine gasket I could get
shop jacket to wear when working on Grendal
tow rope 
tennis ball w/ slit to hold spare parts (a list suggestion)
spare points, plugs, cap, condenser
spare fuel pump
trilube- yet another non silicone lubricant

Pushed and proped in various corners of Grendal

Wrench to lock hubs
flashlight
jug of water
towel
saw

on a trip I usually take gas, and up my spares, and even more tools. 

I think I may change my daily tool compliment-(more not less)

Paul G
SIII WWB "Grendal"

------------------------------

From: RykRover <RykRover@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 15:17:00 EST
Subject: Re: Wipers, Washers & Hi-Lift J(D-90`S)

OK , how about a hi-lift on a D-90 soft top?
RGDS, Rick

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 98 15:47:34 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Wipers, Washers & Hi-Lift J(D-90`S)

>>OK , how about a hi-lift on a D-90 soft top?

bolt it to the roll cage over the windscreen. should be sufficiently ugly!

actually, in all seriousness, you could do it on the back or just bolt it 
to the rollcage somewhere inside. 

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 98 15:52:23 EST
Subject: Re: Dist drive gear/Cam Timing etc.

Dan is this all on the old engine or the "new" one?

Just curious, if you found the cause of your noise...

later
DaveB

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 16:35:33 -0500
From: Eric Zipkin <ericz@cloud9.net>
Subject: Re: Dilemma

It seems you're begging the question as to what is the best way to go about
series Rover ownership.  Before I get on my soap-box let me make clear that
I intend to offend no-one on the list...everyone has their own way of going
about things and that's what makes Rover oweners so interesting.

Here goes:
Eric's Step by Step Guide to Rover Ownership

1. Take about $1000 or so and go out and buy a mechanically sound econobox.
	NOT A LAND ROVER!!!!

2. Take about $500 or so and buy a complete Rover that does not run and has
no chassis to speak of.

3. Beg, Borrow, Cajole or Steal a place to work on the vehicle for the next
six months.

4. Proceed to do a frame-up on the vehicle....replacing/upgrading those
parts that you find important....ignoring what you don't.

Reasoning:  There is no such thing as a Series Land Rover that does not
require regular maintenance work.  Whether you buy some $20,000 show-piece
or something akin to the green beastie....if you use the vehicle as was
intended, then you will have to fix things.  Buying a $500 Rover and
getting it running forces you to learn all the systems that go wrong with
the car from day one. That learning is the most important step to
affordable Land Rover Ownership...it allows you to have an appreciation for
the vehicle and to be able to fix it at will.  You'll also find that even
if you put a decent value on your time, the finished product will have cost
less.

Quite frankly, unless you have loads of money, don't buy a series Rover and
expect to have someone else do all the work...you'll only end up spending
more than you can imagine for service

Ok, off soapbox...YMMV.

Eric

------------------------------

From: jreinan@lawyernet.com
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 14:32:50 -0500 
Subject: Series IIA 88" for sale

I've decided to part with my '64 IIA, mostly because of my purchase of a
new Disco.  Yes, I am a sellout, and yes, I am ashamed of myself.  But
part of the blame must go to those high-pressure LR salespeople, and the
guys that put the cushy leather interior into the Disco.....and the guy
that put the V8 under the hood.

In any case, gotta sell the '64 at some point in time.  It's in
excellent original shape, but could use a coat of paint (marine blue).
Has a Rochester carb, O/D, new tires, yada yada yada.  Asking close to
8k, which is MUCH LESS than I have into it.  May it find an appropriate
home.

Jay Reinan
jreinan@lawyernet.com (Denver)
'64 Ser. IIA (SWB) SW
'91 Jag XJS conv (in the shop)
'62 Willys P/U (has never seen the shop)
'98 LR Disco (likes to shop)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 16:59:14 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Subject: starting

I couldn't get my Land-Rover started this afternoon.  It is cold, but not
so cold that I should start to think about having problems.  (Around
10F.)  It cranked nicely, there was spark, and seemed to be gas.  Thus, it
occurs to me that perhaps the problem is the nut behind the wheel.  What
is the recommend cold start procedure?

david/mr. sinclair

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 19:10:25 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Dilemma

DAVID J. TEGART wrote:
> Hello all-
> I am new to the list and am not, in fact, a Land Rover owner yet.
> However, for many years I have been fascinated by them but never
> considered buying one until a few months ago when my fascination
> became an obsession.  I spotted a '59 109" pick up for sale here in
> Boulder.  The fellow selling it wanted $3500 for it.  The body was
> pretty ugly, and it had a home-made top.  However, it ran extremely
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 28 lines)]
> Thanks for letting me vent,
> Dave T.
Hey this is the late 1990s you don't get any near perfect vehicle for 8
Grand particularly if is 4x4. For that money you will get a road worthy
truck that needs some work.
   John

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 19:27:39 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: starting

It is likely that your choke is not on all the way. Take the air hose
off the top of the carb and look to see if the butterfly is closed when
the choke knob is all the way out.if not adjust the cable at the clamp
on the carb.        
         JohnDavid Scheidt wrote:
> I couldn't get my Land-Rover started this afternoon.  It is cold, but not
> so cold that I should start to think about having problems.  (Around
> 10F.)  It cranked nicely, there was spark, and seemed to be gas.  Thus, it
> occurs to me that perhaps the problem is the nut behind the wheel.  What
> is the recommend cold start procedure?
> david/mr. sinclair

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: starting
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 15:35:10 -0800

Sounds like choke problems.

Check to see if the choke is closing properly.

Try a squirt from a spray can of starting fluid, directly into the
carburetor.  If this stuff doesn't start it, your problems lie
elsewhere.

Paul
Victoria, BC  Canada

>-----Original Message-----
>From:	David Scheidt [SMTP:david@infocom.com]
>Sent:	Tuesday, January 13, 1998 1:59 PM
>To:	lro@playground.sun.com
>Subject:	starting

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
>is the recommend cold start procedure?
>david/mr. sinclair

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 19:06:13
From: David Kurzman <kurzman@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Mysterious dying L-R

I'm not a motorhead so cut me some slack if there is an obvious 
solution to this.
L-R is a '66 88 2.25 gas model. It has been doing fine until recently.
It now sometimes just dies after being driven for 20-30 minutes. Starts
to cough, slows down and dies. I pull over to the side of the road, wait 
about 5 minutes and it starts up and does fine. Oh yeah..it has a
Zenith off of a 1983 109 with one of those fuel cut-off solonoids.
The only thing I've done recently to the truck was to blank off about
2/3 of the grill with a piece off cardboard. I did this because my
temp. guage read only 1/2 way between cold and normal after a long
run. The temp. guage is out of a '76 Midget. 
I was thinking maybe that the guage is reading low, thus I should not 
have blanked the radiator, it's getting too hot under the hood and
I'm getting a vapor lock. I'm going to open up the grill next time 
I drive it but I thought I'd run this by you guys. I forgot....
along with the dying, it has also started to diesel (run on) a bit.
The fuel cut-off solonoid is supposed to stop this. Thanks in advance
for any help. Best, Dave in Virginia where it's been pretty warm.
PS...On the High lift jack.....I keep mine in the garage. It's been there
for about 3 years and I've never used it. So if anyone wants one around
the Richmond, Va. area, let me know. Still got a tropical hardtop with
liftgate I don't need (no alpine lights) also. (804) 233-1341

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 19:51:13 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Subject: RE: starting

On Tue, 13 Jan 1998, Paul Quin wrote:

> Sounds like choke problems.
> Check to see if the choke is closing properly.

The chokes are closed properly.  I have a distinct fear of using starting
fluid.  I had a manifold *explode* (on a ford pu, not a land-rover) under
the influence of starting fluid.  I will try that tomorrow though.  

I got the thing started.  I brought the battery into the kitchen, and
hooked it up to a charger.  While waiting for that to work, I put some
water removal stuff in the tank, cleaned the air filter, considered taking
the float bowl cover off to have a look at hte jets, and decided that 5F
and 10 mph winds were a bit much for that, what with the other car and
all.  When the battery was charged, I got it start with about 20 or 30
seconds of cranking.  

I went for a drive, and noticed the charge light was on.  Very dimly, I
wouldn't have been able to tell, except it was dark by now.  Same
brightness w/ or w/o lights and heaters.  Got brighter as the revs went
up, but not bright enough to be able to see in daylight.  I begin to
suspect that this is why I couldn't get the thing started first go, but I
don't know what is  causing this.  Fan belt is good and tight.  Maybe a
bad/misadjusted voltage requlator?

david/ mr. Sinclair.

> Try a squirt from a spray can of starting fluid, directly into the
> carburetor.  If this stuff doesn't start it, your problems lie
> elsewhere.
> Paul
> Victoria, BC  Canada
> >-----Original Message-----

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
> >is the recommend cold start procedure?
> >david/mr. sinclair

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 19:54:46 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Subject: Re: Mysterious dying L-R

On Tue, 13 Jan 1998, David Kurzman wrote:

> I'm not a motorhead so cut me some slack if there is an obvious 
> solution to this.
> L-R is a '66 88 2.25 gas model. It has been doing fine until recently.
> It now sometimes just dies after being driven for 20-30 minutes. Starts
> to cough, slows down and dies. I pull over to the side of the road, wait 
> about 5 minutes and it starts up and does fine. Oh yeah..it has a

This sounds like a plugged fuel filter to me.  Do you have an inline fuel
filter?  Replace it.  If you don't have one, consider getting one, and
check the sediment bowl on the fuel pump.

david/mr sinclair

------------------------------

From: "daviscar" <Daviscar@concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Dealing with Freezing Rain
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 19:08:43 -0600

> > A store here in Chicago called Boats us has small remote ceramic
> > heaters
> > for about $25.00-$30.00  I think they were 800W if it works for a boat
> > windshield it should work on an LR's.
> 800W is around 65a at 12v. Unless you have a very large alternator and
> wiring to match, you won't get much heat for long.

So Maybe I am wrong about the Wattage. It could happen. I think (HA,HA)

Bruce Davis
Daviscar@concentric.net

------------------------------

From: MurphyK1@psgvl.ps.ge.com
Subject: RE: Dilemma
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 20:27:50 -0500

Eric,
	I agree with everything... except for the six months bit!!

	I bought a SIIA 88" a year ago for $5K (US).  It needed minor
work to the gas tank and interior and tropical roof... or so I thought.
Six months later I drove it into a storage unit and proceeded to tear it
apart and restore it.  And six months later, it is still torn apart but
the progress is going well.  

	Being of a Finance background, I have always had an interest,
but no true mechanical knowledge of engines and automobiles.  I have
learned more about cars, engines, and in particular Land Rovers, in the
last six months than I learned about Economics in four years of college!
I have also acquired a vast appreciation for the "hobby" and to those
who readily play "doctor" on this mailing list.

	Owning a Series Land Rover is a hobby in and of itself.  And
like all hobbies, whether it be snow skiing, computers, or stamp
collecting, they cost money.  And like all hobbies, you become involved
because you enjoy it... heck, you may even be "obsessed" with it.  And
if you enjoy something a lot, you don't mind putting money into it.  

	Maybe one day when I am rich and happy (and drunk) I will total
up all the receipts which I have kept!

	Excuse me for preaching to the choir.  

	Take care,

------------------------------

From: "KMCO" <KMCO@KEAR.TDS.NET>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 20:53:02 -0500
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------------------------------

From: rovah@agate.net
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 21:04:20 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Website update..

For those of you who might stop by the website from time to time, the following pages have been updated tonight; Rear Wiper Fix, Chevy Transplant into a Range Rover, My Range Rover.  Please stop by!  Let me know if anything doesn't load correctly!

Cheers!  John

John Cassidy
Bangor, Maine USA

The Downeast Land Rover Club, <http://www.agate.net/~rovah/>
X0 of the V(irtual)MFA 323rd Cougars/Flying GSC's F/A-18 Hornet game <http://www.tstonramp.com/~kahuna/index.html>

2 Wheels: Ducati M900, Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S
4 Wheels: 1998 SE Discovery, 1987 Range Rover-"Smedley," 1966 Series IIA 88", 1972 Series III 88"-"SWAMBO" 1963 Unimog 404.1-S "The Caterpiller"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 21:31:07 -0500 (EST)
From: Hank Rutherford <ruthrfrd@borg.com>
Subject: PTO Generator

Keith Elliot wrote about running a tractor type generator off the front of a
LR crank. IMHO, I believe these are designed to run at PTO speed which is
540 rpm. A bit too slow as the engine idles at at least 700 rpm, and
produces little power at this speed. Can anyone correct me on this? A good
idea, though.
                                                     
                                                 Regards, Ruthrfrd@borg.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 22:18:15 -0500
From: Brian Cramer <defender@mail.uscom.com>
Subject: The real Euro Jerrycan source

Hi All,

I found this source for Euro Jerrycans in my Military Vehicle club
magazine. I've ordered from them in advance of sending this post to test
them out. What I received is just what was described. Five 20 liter Euro
Jerrycans @ $12 each plus shipping. These guys seem really nice. 

Call Greg Cash at Lionheart Vehicles LTD, (541) 946-1611. They have a web
site: http://members.aol.com/milveh/INDEX.html and e-mail: Milveh@aol.com

Let Greg know I referred you. I joked that when I told my friends about
him, he sell out his entire stock of cans.

I have no affiliation with this company. I just thought I'd pass along a
good source for what a lot of us have been searching for. 

Cheers,

Brian Cramer
(888)434-4678 office
(609)665-4451 office fax
(609)273-9708 home
(609)458-6671 cellular
'94 D90 (#1251)
'90 RR County
'70 IIa Lightweight
'89 Range Rover (For Sale: $10,995 OBO)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 22:20:47 -0800
From: Dave Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Front Drive Pully for power

My son, a machinest, just made a neat power take off for my friends
crawler tractor that will work just fine on a Land Rover.  He purchased
a solid cast pully for $16 that had enough centre metal to allow it to
be turned on the lathe for a 2" (in this case) hole.  It was drilled at
4 places for bolts to pass through to the bull nose flange on the engine
and holes were drilled on the bull nose flange to take the 4 bolts.
Spacers were used to keep the pulley slightly ahead of the flange and in
front of the belts.  Slipped over the crank dog (drill the centre to fit
this) it centered the pulley and allowed it to be used to drive the
hydraulic pump used to raise and lower his snow blade.  It would work
fine on the Land Rover for the same thing or to run a generator for
lights etc.  Has anyone tried driving a 1 HP electric motor from the
Land Rover in an emergency as a generator.  It should put out out
enought juice to run some lights at the very least.  Maybe even a heater
of some kind.  Let me know if you have tried it. I might do it for our
next ham radio field day just for fun.
Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 22:30:32 -0800
From: Dave Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: tyres

If you have a Cooper Tire outlet in your area, they have the 750 x 16
lug tires.  I bought 4 and they really are great off road.  They bite
and don't make a lot of noise on the highway.  They are very inexpensive
but I think the fellow told me thay will stop making them this year so
get there fast.
Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

From: "ASFCO" <ASFCO@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: More Tyre Chains-The ones I got for My Rangie...more
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 98 23:57:28 PST

----------
> Garrett writes abnout Chainquest....
> The set I got will fit several sizes including LT 225/75R16, 215/85R16
> and 9.50x30R15. So I can use them on all of my landies if I needed to.
> They were very reasonably priced, $77.00 a set. They shipped very

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> They were very reasonably priced, $77.00 a set. They shipped very
> promptly and were at my door in 8 working days.  Shipping from Oregon =
to
> Tennessee was only $30 for both sets (4 chains).
> The site URL is:
> http://www.chainquest.com/chains.html#lighttruck
> The chains I ordered were:

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
> had just recently used this type of chain to drive to Tahoe in her
> personally owned vehicle (POV).
For more chain info...
>  these chains are similar to ones made by RUD CHAIN and are described =
on BIll Burkes page at
http://www.4X4Now.com/bb1097.htm
these chains cost in the neighborhood of $ 170 are made in Germany and =
are reversable  where the $77 ones are imported from China . Does anyone =
know if these
chains would indeed be worth the extra $ 100?? I would tend to think not =
but would like to hear from someone who may have firsthand knowledge.
More fuel for the fire..
BTW I used to know a girl in NYC named Cherrish but she didn't sell chain=
...she used it   hehehe
Rgds
Steve Bradke  68 lla 88
                        72 lll  88
                        96 Disco

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 00:12:21 -0500 (EST)
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Galvanizing bulkheads

Following the thread on hot-dipping bulkheads, Diesel Bob did his frame and 
bulkhead as one unit.  Virginia Galvanizing, before they went crazy with 
their pricing, could do something the size of Interstate bridge parts - 70' 
by 15'.  I don't think he had any problems with warping and it looks great.  
He *did* have some problems with the door hinge bolts tho'.  He plugged the 
holes with bolts, thinking that this would keep the hot zinc out of the 
threads.  All it did was weld 'em in place. :-0  Perhaps greased, hardwood 
dowels screwed into place would better serve that purpose.  Cheers

      *---"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                  | 
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
      |   "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas"   |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730    |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056    |
      |                                                    |
      *---1972 Series III 88"-----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 00:12:30 -0500 (EST)
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: PTO generators

Keith Elliott writes from the cold and dark of Ottawa:

>I was sitting in the dark last night and wondered about getting a PTO
>drive generator...Has anyone ever tried this before.

Mike McCaig has a rear PTO (genuine Rover) fitted to his 88.  The PTO 
splines are "standard" for a variety of implements.  The advantage to the 
PTO route as opposed to the front engine take off is that the gearbox can 
regulate the final RPMs to match the generator's requirements.  Good luck.

      *---"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                  | 
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
      |   "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas"   |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730    |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056    |
      |                                                    |
      *---1972 Series III 88"-----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 00:12:27 -0500 (EST)
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Spares and tools

Jeff Berg listed a rather complete kit that he carries in his Rover all the 
time.  Mine is virtually identical, though I'd add the following items.

-Spare fuel pump or rebuild kit. (Had to overhaul a 1 month old pump on
        the way to a wedding one time.)
-Carb rebuild kit.  (Crapped out 12 miles from the nearest asphalt.)
-Brake and clutch master kits.  They take up like zero space.
-Brake cylinder seals.
-An assortment of seals.
-Spare wheel bearings, lock tab washer, hub nut.
-A head set.  Sold one for a major profit one time ;-)
-Spare coil.  Actually, a used one.
-Points, rotor, cap.

Other bits:
-Factory workshop manual.
-Very complete first aid kit.
-Ax, machete, saw.
-12 v. flourescent trouble light.
-JB Weld, most 'flavors' of Permatex.
-Spare ammo (don't ask).

Cheers

      *---"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                  | 
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
      |   "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas"   |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730    |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056    |
      |                                                    |
      *---1972 Series III 88"-----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Subject: Ice Storm no LR content
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 21:59:21 +1100

     John and Muddy wrote:

>If some fellow listers are wondering why there has been so little word
>from those in eastern Canada and the north east USA.it because there has
>one hellacious Ice storm lasting as long as 5 days in some of the area.
>The area between MontreaL and Ottawa and down into New York and Vermont
>States have been the worst hit with Millions without power and therefore
>the Net. Many are still down.

Ah.  That explains why I haven't been able to raise anyone in Teleglobe
Canada (telecoms company with whom we interwork).  I don't watch much TV and
I never watch the news and I don't read newspapers.  If something important
happens, someone will tell me about it.

Regards,
Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, NSW, Australia
'86 Range Rover 4.8L auto (The Last Aquila)
'71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660 1725cc manual
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc auto
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc manual
check my home page at
http://www.users.bigpond.com/hillman

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 09:55:14 +0000
Subject: Re: Ice Storm no LR content

Sounded pretty vicious on the radio this morning - wood (ie. trees and
telegraph poles) splintering and disintegrating with the shear cold!

I've experienced long power-outs in the UK due to the cold, but this was
due to the "tropical" temperatures which wavered around freezing point (so
ice built up on all the cables, pulling the poles down like match-sticks).
Being in a group of about a dozen houses at the time, the power lines were
low down on the repair lists.

Is Toronto affected?  I know someone who has just gone out there on
secondment (read "holiday") for a few months. The news items I've heard
have been a bit lacking on where exactly its cold!
No doubt she'll be telling us *all* about it when we get back!

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

hillman@bigpond.com on 01/13/98 10:59:21 AM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Ice Storm no LR content

     John and Muddy wrote:
>If some fellow listers are wondering why there has been so little word
>from those in eastern Canada and the north east USA.it because there has
      [ truncated by lro-lite (was 6 lines)]
>States have been the worst hit with Millions without power and therefore
>the Net. Many are still down.
Ah.  That explains why I haven't been able to raise anyone in Teleglobe
Canada (telecoms company with whom we interwork).  I don't watch much TV
and
I never watch the news and I don't read newspapers.  If something important
happens, someone will tell me about it.
Regards,
Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, NSW, Australia
'86 Range Rover 4.8L auto (The Last Aquila)
'71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660 1725cc manual
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc auto
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc manual
check my home page at
http://www.users.bigpond.com/hillman

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 98 10:38:13    
From: Steve Mace <steve@solwise.demon.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Mysterious dying L-R 

--- On Tue, 13 Jan 1998 19:06:13  David Kurzman <kurzman@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

>I'm not a motorhead so cut me some slack if there is an obvious 
>solution to this.
>L-R is a '66 88 2.25 gas model. It has been doing fine until recently.
>It now sometimes just dies after being driven for 20-30 minutes. Starts
>to cough, slows down and dies. I pull over to the side of the road, wait 
>about 5 minutes and it starts up and does fine. Oh yeah..it has a

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 19 lines)]
>I drive it but I thought I'd run this by you guys. I forgot....
>along with the dying, it has also started to diesel (run on) a bit.

-----End of Original Message---------

My LtWt used to suffer with these symptoms just after I fitted an electric fan. It was due to fuel vapourisation due to high under-bonnet temperature. Try unblocking the grill on the radiator and seeing if it goes away. If it does then this seems the most likely cause.

1972 LtWt
1993 D90

UK

-------------------------------------
Name: Dr Steve Mace
E-mail: steve@solwise.demon.co.uk
www: http://www.demon.co.uk/solwise/
Tel: +44 1482 473899
Fax: +44 1482 472245
Date: 14/01/98
Time: 10:38:13
-------------------------------------

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