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Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 08:57:37 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: 109 Search Ideas

gehl@at.crane.navy.mil wrote:
> upon 88's.  So I ask, since most original 88's need frame work, what
> of buying an 88, putting a new 109 frame underneath and seek only the
> 109 pickup bed?  Is this as simple as I make it?  Is the 109 bed a
> separate item, a la US pickup trucks?  Is a 109  bed impossible to
> find in the US?  Mark

There is a 109 on the Rovers North BBs alleged to be in excellent shape.
     John

------------------------------

From: MurphyK1@psgvl.ps.ge.com
Subject: RE: Dist Oil Pump Drive Gear (fwd)
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 08:03:33 -0500

> Long time lurker, first time attempting to communicate! I am trying to
> install the distributor and oil pump drive gear on my Series III 109
> Petrol (circa 1976). No problem getting gear to line up correctly and
> point to TDC, but am not sure if the grub screw must engage large hole
> in drive gear bush or not. My Haynes manual says position so that
> small
> hole is facing towards the oil filter mounting face at the point where
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
> Regards,
> John Baker, Bangkok 
	John,

	Just did it in November.  If you have Porter's, DYI Restoration
and Guide..., he has a picture of this process and the caption reads
something to the effect of "This is the most fiddly task during the
rebuild..."

	The grub screw holds the bush in place so that the oil pump
shaft can turn the distributor gear.  You have to make sure that when
the distributor gear is dropped in place it lines up for timing
purposes.  Exactly how to line it up is in any manual (pointing to one
of the head bolts I believe).  You will have to lay the piece in several
times.   The first few times do it so that you know where to place the
distributor gear in so that when it is fully engaged it is pointing at
the right mark.  Once you have that down, position the bush so that when
distributor gear turns as it is being installed the hole in the bush
lines up with the hole in the oil filter space.  You will have to
determine if the bush turns or not when the distributor gear is
installed.  Sometimes, the gear may turn and the bush remains still or
the bush may turn with the gear depending on friction, etc.  It is a
fiddly job.  Once you get the holes almost lined up, use a very small
screw driver to line up the holes.  When you put the grub screw in, it
should be completely flush with face of the block.  If it is not, then
it is not going through the hole all the way.

	Hope this helps.

	Kevin
	'67 IIA "Nancy" (In hundreds of pieces)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 09:06:14 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Series Driver Tool Kit?

gehl@at.crane.navy.mil wrote:
> For those who drive their LR series everyday, what tools/supplies do
> you carry?  Mark

  Set of wrenches 1/4in to 1 1/16  metric 6mm to 19mm
   1/2 drive sockets 7/16 to 1 1/4 	
   3/8 drive sockets 1/4 to 3/4   metric 8mm to 18mm Deep 	
   screw drivers 3 sizes of flat, philips and Robertson
   Hex keys.
   Spare distributor complete, points and condensor 
   Fan belt
   first aid kit
   Tow rope  extender chain  tree saver strap  
   Winch anchor pegs, Axes   bush saw   water  
  a bunch of other stuff.
     John and Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 09:11:33 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: 265ci 6 Cylinder vs 4 Cylinder Iron Duke

gehl@at.crane.navy.mil wrote:
> Can anyone comment on the relative merits of the Chrysler 265ci
> 6 cylinder versus the 2.5L 4 cylinder GM Iron Duke?
> Mark

  Its Bigger!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 13:16:07 +0000 (GMT)
From: Peter Venters <venters@atm.ox.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: bulkheads and zinc

For what it's worth, when I got replacement bulkhead for my L-R, I was
advised to get it zinc sprayed, rather than dipped, to reduce the chance
of distortion. So far (about three years) the zinc sprayed bulkhead has
been fine.

Peter (86" 1955 S1)

------------------------------

From: "Alain-Jean PARES" <InfoDyne@wanadoo.fr>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 14:21:05 +0100

Hi all,

Saw yesterday on the French news that a "Land Rover" (Defender 90 I saw) was
arrested in the channel tunnel with 60 kg of cocain inside his weels...

Alain-Jean PARES
Bourron-Marlotte, FRANCE

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 08:40:50 -0500 (EST)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re: Up North

>Brrr. Just saw the news on CNN and it looks cold in Canada. Saw a Land Rover
>going across an ice covered intersection. It *wasn't* the Green Beastie (or
>The Green Rover tm), because it looked like a reddish shade of green. As well
>as that, it was a Disco.
>With the reports of Ice Storms, etc., I hope all the LRO's up there get some
>power and warmth soon.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
>pat 
>93 110

Well talking about the storm up here, I managed to keep the 88 out of harms
way by parking it in the middle of a field away from any and all possible
falling trees/branches. Many of us up here (like me :( ) have been without
electricity, phone, heat, water now since last tuesday and the latest news
is that it could be as long as 2 to 4 weeks before we get it back. Makes it
very hard to come in to work and have some enthusiasm about doing ones job,
I probably wouldn't even bother if it weren't for the running water,
toilets, and heat.

Stay warm
Keith
1961 Series II 88"
Ottawa area

------------------------------

Date: 12 Jan 1998 08:47:48 -0400
From: "LT J Jackson" <lt_j_jackson@unixlink.uscga.edu>
Subject: Wipers, Washers & Hi-Lift J

A couple of lessons from a weekend's work, and a question.

1.  SIII wiper arms, which upon casual glance look to be the automotive
equivalent of a one-celled organism, are deceptive.  They incorporate a
clever, almost Honda-ish hidden latch which, if released, allows the
adjustment of the arm length (why? who knows.).  Mine self-released, causing
the arm to lengthen as I was driving in the rain.  The arm then impacted the
windshield frame and stuck in this position, freezing the other arm as well
(SIII) and causing the owner to scream in frustration.  It also burned out the
low-speed position on my switch, because I neglected to turn the power off
until I pulled over.   This is probably well known by more experienced LRO's,
but newbies beware.

2.  I spent an enjoyable Saturday morning scrounging through a junkyard for
Toyota windshield washer jets (the hood-mounted type).  When I replaced my
bulkhead, the new one didn't have holes for the factory jets, and I didn't
want to drill into new metal.  The installation took about 2 hrs using a 7/16"
drill bit and a dremel tool.  Looks and works great.

3.  Where, in an 88, can one mount a 48" Hi-Lift jack?   I don't have a roof
rack (car barely fits into garage as it is).   Thanks in advance.

Jeff Jackson
73 SIII 88 
Waterford, CT

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 08:45:26 -0500
From: David Russell <David_R@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: 109 Search Ideas

>I have been seeking a 109 for awhile, but seem to keep bumping
>upon 88's.  So I ask, since most original 88's need frame work, what
>of buying an 88, putting a new 109 frame underneath

I know this has been done, my 88" frame came from this type of conversion

>and seek only the
>109 pickup bed?  Is this as simple as I make it?  Is the 109 bed a
>separate item, a la US pickup trucks?  Is a 109  bed impossible to
>find in the US?  Mark

Depends on how much you want to spend, I suppose. I know one major US
supplier has 110" beds for $3000.00+. I think you'll need some more
109"-specific parts (axles, wheels, half-shafts, etc) but I'm not really
qualified to answer any further.

I do know someone who does it (in Connecticut) but don't have info here.
E-mail me if your're interested.

Cheers

David Russell
1997 Discovey SD 5 speed
1969 SIIA "Bugeye" 88" SW Petrol
1965? SIIA 109" P/U Diesel! Think "farm truck*", then roll it
1977 T***ta FJ40 Land Cruiser (sort of)
http://www.mindspring.com/~david_r
* as described to me by its po, Steve Denis

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 8:57:02 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: 109 Search Ideas

Hey, check with Spenny. He and I hauled a 109 bed back from Quintin's a 
couple of weekends ago. Needs a bit of touch-up, but could be 
serviceable. I'll bet it goes cheap.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 09:37:59 -0500
From: Eric Zipkin <ericz@cloud9.net>
Subject: Re: Ice Storm no LR content

Funny there's been little or no press about this (how about in Canada?)
Every local fire department here has sent crews of volunteers up to help
sort things out...when I got the call from our chief, it was the first I
had heard about it.  I wish I could have gone...sounds like real LR work
(there you go, LR content) 

Rgds,
Eric

At 11:32 PM 1/11/98 -0400, you wrote:
>If some fellow listers are wondering why there has been so little word
>from those in eastern Canada and the north east USA.it because there has
>one hellacious Ice storm lasting as long as 5 days in some of the area.
>The area between MontreaL and Ottawa and down into New York and Vermont
>States have been the worst hit with Millions without power and therefore
>the Net. Many are still down.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
>     Wish them well as it is getting very cold.
>     John and Muddy.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 06:52:44 -0800
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: Series Driver Tool Kit?

All of them

C

gehl@at.crane.navy.mil wrote:
> For those who drive their LR series everyday, what tools/supplies do
> you carry?  Mark

------------------------------

From: "Huub Pennings" <hps@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 16:00:48 +0100
Subject: Africa Land Rover prices

Hello
A friend of mine is looking into the possibility of making a trip
through the sahara, and selling the LaRo at the end of the journey.
We wonder if their is a marked for "88 Series vehicles in this region 
(South Sahara,Niger)?
Any advice, source of information on this one???
Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 14:52:43 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Ice Storm no LR content

>Funny there's been little or no press about this (how about in Canada?)
There's been a fair bit here in the UK.Newspapers and BBC news.They
did a bit more this lunchtime.
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 10:44:59 -0500
From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re: Series Driver Tool Kit?

>For those who drive their LR series everyday, what tools/supplies do
>you carry?  Mark

I probably carry way too much stuff for "local" driving, but as I often
work at my parents' house (and on short notice) it's convenient to carry a
reasonably complete set of tools at all times. Also, I have the rear tool
bin that allows me to secure some of these larger items that I'd otherwise
take out of the truck when not traveling. As it is, it's easier to keep the
stuff with the Rover.

FINSUP's kit includes the following:

Lugnut Wrench (heavy duty x-bar type)
bottle jack
Wheel chocks (1 slightly flattened--ask Zippy why.)
Jumper cables
Recovery gear (tow straps and shackles)
MOD surplus Pick and Shovel set
Snow shovel
Glock folding entrenching tool (includes wicked wood saw)

Bin under drivers seat contains:
Sears Craftsman toolkit that periodically goes on sale for about $50:
	1/4 Drive and Sockets (standard and Metric)
	3/8 Drive and Sockets + short extension (standard and metric)
	Open-ended wrenches in 3/8 thru 11/16 (I think that's the range)
	flat head screwdriver
	#2 phillips screwdriver

7" Vice Grips
7" Diagonal Cutters
7" long nose pliers
7" "regular" slip-joint pliers
7" "big" slip-joint pliers (forget the name --longer parallel jaws)
Cheapo wire stripper/crimper tool
4 "Land Rover" stock wrenches purchased at a rally (Marginally useless)
A double ended Whitworth wrench that I won at a show. (Forget the size but
I think one end is 7/8 --it fits various drain plugs)
Extra 1/2-9/16 combination wrench
9/16 long box/open ended wrench
adjustable (non-crescent style) wrench.
1/4" short drive extention
"Screwdriver" handle to use 1/4" sockets as nutdrivers (Probably Buffalo brand)
Spark plug socket
Oil filter wrench--I have a spin-on adaptor
folding hex wrench set (wiper arms and brake drum screws on my Rover)
Small assortment of punches
Rubber mallet
Machinists hammer
Larger Flat Head screwdriver (not quite large enough for stock brake drum
screws though)
Small 90 degree screwdriver (Carb adjustment)
Stanley "folding saw" that uses Sawz-all blades. (Lennox "steel" blade
installed and "wood" blade stored in handle.) If you can find one, Bosch
makes a better version of this tool.
Hub nut tool from Rovers North
Brake line clamps (not really a road tool, but as good a place as any to
store them)
Valve stem wrench/screw on pressure release tool
Extra valve stems and caps
Anti-sieze compound
Silicone brake parts grease
Some type of blue goo gasket maker
Locktite blue
Locktite red
All of the above fits nicely into a soft-sided "Tool Pack" tool bag. The
socket sets are in cordura "Tool Pack" pouches and the wrenches and
screwdrivers are in a tool roll. Most of the tools are Craftsman and if
asked they "broke under normal use."

Also beneath the seat:
Digital Multimeter (don't forget spare batteries!)
Tire pressure gauge
Can of PowerBlaster (WD-40 on steroids)
Halogen "backpackers" headlamp--waterproof.
Duct tape
Electrical tape
"Jupiter" Tape--(Self annealing rubber)
Spool of steel wire
Spool of electrical wire (16 guage stranded)
Assorted electrical connecters
Small assortment of nuts, bolts and machine screws
A few SS hose clamps
A handful of assorted "zip" wire ties
Length of rubber hose.
Castrol LMA
1 bottle of 85-W-140 gear oil
20-W-50 oil (3-7 quarts depending on when I last restocked)

"Every day parts"
Transfer gear and backing plate in case the overdrive goes
2 half shafts (long & short) and the appropriate seals
Spare module for Illuminition.
Bulbs and fuses

Jar of hand cleaner and shop towels
Disposable latex gloves
Coveralls
A polarfleece blanket (doubles as ground sheet)
2 pair of heavy duty "railroad" work gloves for winching and pushing
Haynes Manual, Rovers North catalog, BB list printout.

For longer trips I carry additional gaskets and anything else that's
sitting on the shelf that I can stuff into the rear toolbox. (I once "just
happened to have" a water pump rebuild kit up in Ottawa that I traded to
Russ Wilson.) I also (now) carry lots of extra gear oil and a small pump if
I'm going to be wading--and an extra oil filter or two.

Seems like a lot of stuff, but it doesn't really take up very much space.

Regards, RoverOn!

JAB

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life,
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 07:55:04 -0800
From: "Bert P. Krages" <krages@teleport.com>
Subject: Dealing with Freezing Rain

I was driving in freezing rain yesterday and ended up with my windshield
covered with ice.  The Smith heater couldn't keep the windshield warn
enough.  Any suggestions on how to deal with this problem?  Taking the top
off and lowering the windshield is not a viable option.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 11:01:45 -0500 (EST)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Ice Storm some LR content

I was sitting in the dark last night and wondered about getting a PTO driven
generator that they are using on tractors and driving it from the front of
the crank on the LR. I figure that I could replace the starter dog with a
shaft with a couple of u-joints on it and there we go instant power. I
wouldn't be trying this anytime soon but I think that it would be an
interesting project in the future when things get back to normal. My
question to the list is does anyone else think that this would be possible
to do? Has anyone every tried this before?

Thanks
Keith
1961 Series II 88
Ottawa Area

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 11:05:36 -0500 (EST)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re: Dealing with Freezing Rain

>I was driving in freezing rain yesterday and ended up with my windshield
>covered with ice.  The Smith heater couldn't keep the windshield warn
>enough.  Any suggestions on how to deal with this problem?  Taking the top
>off and lowering the windshield is not a viable option.

I wonder if one of those internal car heaters that you plug into the
cigarette lighter could produce enough heat if it were placed on the dash of
the LR to keep the windshield clear...

Keith
1961 Series II 88"
Ottawa area

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 08:20:32 -0800
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: Series Driver Tool Kit?

OK.  Here's the non-flippant answer:

I didn't really work on cars before purchasing my IIA, so I didn't have many
tools.  In fact, the original tool kit that came with my car represented 90% of
the tools that I owned which were suitable for working on cars at that time.  As
a result, I have simply continued to store most of my new tools in the car as
I've purchased them.  But anyway, here's the really usefull stuff:

Tools:
Full set of screwdrivers from Costco/Price Club/Sams/Sears/Whatever
2 Combo + 2 speed ratchets in the usual suspect sizes: 1/4, 5/16, 1/2, 7/16,
3/4.  
Test light + DMM
12g wire (bright yellow so field hacks stick out), wire shavers/cutters, black
electrical tape and a small box of spades and lugs.
BF Hammer
Full socket set (Allen) in metric and english.  This covers most bolts on the
car--even the whitworth ones.
Some BF sockets (13/16,7/8,15/16) and a breaker bar (this is what I use for a
lug wrench).

Parts:
Points & rotor (maybe I should cary a cap?)
Hoses

Small container of 90wt.
4 qts 20w50 
Jumper cables (used those last night to help someone)

I have a lot more than that, but that's the Really Useful Tools list.

C

Christopher H. Dow wrote:
> All of them
> C
> gehl@at.crane.navy.mil wrote:
> > For those who drive their LR series everyday, what tools/supplies do
> > you carry?  Mark

------------------------------

From: "Huub Pennings" <HPS@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 17:34:39 +0100
Subject:       Re: Dealing with Freezing Rain

Woudn't one of this glue-on type electric backwindow heaters generate 
sufficient heat when stuck to your front window?
You would have to look between the lines....
Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 11:39:58 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Subject: Re: Series Driver Tool Kit?

On Mon, 12 Jan 1998 gehl@at.crane.navy.mil wrote:

> For those who drive their LR series everyday, what tools/supplies do 
> you carry?  Mark

I carry what might be charitably called an excessive amount of stuff.  I
have:

tools:

a complete set of 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 in drive sockets, SAE and Metric.
A collection of random spanners, which includes at least one of every
standard SAE, Metric and Whit, two or three of useful ones.
A bunch of screwdrivers, including one big enough for brake shoe screws,
and alternator levering.
random assortment of pliers -- big waterpump, three or four vice grips,
bunch of others
hex keys
hammers -- regular framing, rubber mallet, 3 or 4 pound lump
el cheapo electric crimping pliers
a bottle jack
two jack stands
a multimeter
a hacksaw
a bigger hacksaw
some random chisels and punches
an impact screwdriver
a wheel cylinder hone
a pop rivter
feeler gague
big X-shaped wheel brace
starting handle
a gunsons power bleeder
shovel
pickax
axe
crowbar

probably other things

spare parts:
random and fairly large collection of bolts, nuts,washers screws rivets
wire, 16 ga stranded several colors
fuses
wire connectors, terminals
spark plugs
spark plug wires (a used set that never made its way out)
points
condensor
rotor
dist. cap
wheel cylinder rebuild kits
a brake master
a clutch slave
brake flex hose or two
7 qts of 20w50, plus an oil filter or two
90wt , with pump
water
antifreeze
GT/LMA
a random collection of gaskets, and a roll of gasket material
fan belt
rad hoses
spare front propshaft (it came with the Land-Rover, and I don't have
anywhere better to put it.)
a windshield wiper blade
probably something else useful
(if I had the stock fuel pump, I would have one of those too)

misc stuff:
hylomar
rtv
some other sort of gasket in a tube
superglue
locktite 
jb weld
anit-sieze glop
duck tape
electical tape
a couple flashlights
a 12V drop light
a small gas can(empty)
catalogs of the places I buy parts from
an autobooks Land-Rover book
(long trips I sometimes take the shop manuals)
fire extingisher
first aid kit
chemical handwarmers (very very handy if you break down in the winter)
sand paper

Recovery stuff:
hi-lift jack
tow strape
shackles

At any given time, there is likey to be something else floating about.

Some of this stuff, I carry around because I don't really have anywhere
better to put it.  Some of it, I only started to carry after I needed it.
(like the spare clutch slave.  I had to drive 800 miles with more or less
no clutch.)

david/mr sinclair

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 11:19:46 -0500
From: Matt Nelson <nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu>
Subject: Re: Surplus Tyre Chain site on the Web

colemans is a good dealer, they also have inexpensive 1/4 ton army
trailers
I believe they are located in Penn. USA

Matt Nelson

Garret Scott wrote:
> I found this site a few weeks ago on the web.  They seem to be selling a
> lot of US Mil surplus tyre chains in a large range of truck tyre sizes.
> Prices didn't look dirt cheap though.  I haven't done any business with
> them.
> http://www.colemans.com/army.html

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 19 lines)]
> Rover and UNIMOG vehicles.  I have no connection, other than as a
> possible customer, with any of the companies involed.

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: 109's for sale in NA, Was 109 Search Ideas
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 09:02:32 -0800

For those looking for 109's in North America,  The following are for
sale in Vancouver, BC  Canada (two hours north of Seattle [four hours
driving a 109]):

65 Land Rover 109 3dr. HT 2.2L gas eng. unleaded valves, Weber Carb. 16"
off set wheels, all new wheel cylinders & brakes, good frame & body,
runs great, Air Cared (passed local emissions check)  white  $5000.00
firm (Canadian $) or about $3600.00 US

The same person is also selling a 109" Khaki soft top with hoops and
hardware for $800.00 and a tail gate for $200.00

68 Land Rover 109 SW, Safari roof, 6 cylinder model, not running needs
restoration $1900.00 obo

As per usual, I haven't seen these vehicles.  I'm just retyping the ads
from the classified paper.

If you would like the phone numbers, e-mail me directly.-

Paul Quin
Paul_Quin@pml.com
Victoria, BC  Canada
>-----Original Message-----
>From:	john cranfield [SMTP:john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca]
>Sent:	Monday, January 12, 1998 4:58 AM
>To:	lro@playground.sun.com
>Subject:	Re: 109 Search Ideas

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
>There is a 109 on the Rovers North BBs alleged to be in excellent shape.
>     John

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 16:26:00 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Series Driver Tool Kit

A very impressive list of tools , but does anybody carry a long rod for 
knocking out the axle stub outta the diff when you break a half shaft, 
and a magnet for retrieving it out of the axle case? Makes the whole job 
easier than having to take the diff out!

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"
Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 15:28:10 -0500
From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re: Series Driver Tool Kit

>A very impressive list of tools , but does anybody carry a long rod for
>knocking out the axle stub outta the diff when you break a half shaft,
>and a magnet for retrieving it out of the axle case? Makes the whole job
>easier than having to take the diff out!

Having had " big chunk-o-shaft" fall out of the diff during an oil change
in Ottawa (and this is after I had actually removed and  powerwashed the
diff after breaking a shaft) I think I'll stick to removing the diff and
removing the bits by inspection. Apparently this bit had welded itself to
the side of the case and avoided detection. (I wonder if it was from a
previous owner because I've pulled the diff after BOTH of my half-shaft
breaks and removed the stubs relatively intact.) This piece of stub was
barely recognizeable after running throug the diff--but we (Zippy, Dixon,
Dale and I) recognized the machine marks of the splines. Charlie Haigh
confirmed our diagnosis the next day. YMMV.

RoverOn!

jab

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life,
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 12:16:22 -0800
From: Norm Logan <nolo@paralegal.net>
Subject: Solihull Society's Rally

Anyone know where and when the Solihull Society's
"National" Rally is being held at this year?

Norm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 15:41:31 -0500
From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re: Surplus Tyre Chain site on the Web

I've never bought tire chains before. I know that I have 16" wheels, and
that my tires are LT235/85R 16's. Can anyone tell me what size chains I
would need--or do I just measure the width of the tire. (Difference is
ordering now as opposed to later in the week. Rover is sitting in parents
driveway right now--interesting story behind that, but it must wait!)

RoverOn!

jab

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life,
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 13:02:32 -0800
From: Norm Logan <nolo@paralegal.net>
Subject: Re: Surplus Tyre Chain site on the Web

At 03:41 PM 1/12/98 -0500, Jeffrey A. Berg wrote:
-I've never bought tire chains before. I know that I have 16" wheels, and
-that my tires are LT235/85R 16's. Can anyone tell me what size chains I
-would need--or do I just measure the width of the tire. (Difference is
-ordering now as opposed to later in the week. Rover is sitting in parents
-driveway right now--interesting story behind that, but it must wait!)

How about size LT16-235/85R, they should fit!

Norm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 16:25:55 -0500
From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re: Surplus Tyre Chain site on the Web

>How about size LT16-235/85R, they should fit!

Didn't see that particular size (of tire chain) listed...

jab

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life,
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 13:26:41 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Subject: KonigChains /Re: Surplus Tyre Chain site on the Web

At 01:02 PM 1/12/98 -0800, Norm Logan wrote:
:At 03:41 PM 1/12/98 -0500, Jeffrey A. Berg wrote:
:-I've never bought tire chains before. I know that I have 16" wheels, and
:-that my tires are LT235/85R 16's. Can anyone tell me what size chains I
:-would need--or do I just measure the width of the tire. (Difference is
:-ordering now as opposed to later in the week. Rover is sitting in parents
:-driveway right now--interesting story behind that, but it must wait!)
:
:How about size LT16-235/85R, they should fit!

 Try this low traffic site:  www.konigchains.com
 REI had them for sale at around $100 a pair in 225-16R75
 for a Range Rover.  Not bad, but no comparison to a regular
 pair of chains from the AutoClub at $30.

-Michael 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 17:11:00 -0500
From: Matt Nelson <nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu>
Subject: Re: Surplus Tyre Chain site on the Web

Even if they don't list the size you need call them and tell them what
you have, the US army used tires in 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, and 9*16 somewherein
there is a set of chains that will work, and just ask the surplus outlet
I'm sure they can help, you narrow it down, they've got to have some
that will fit...
matt

> >How about size LT16-235/85R, they should fit!
> Didn't see that particular size (of tire chain) listed...
> jab
> ==
>  Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
>                     jeff@purpleshark.com
>                      ==================
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
>         I can see it no other way.
>                 --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

From: "KARINA ORTEGA" <karina@ciudadinternet.com.co>
Subject: New one in the neigborhood
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 17:31:01 -0500

Hi people:

I am a Defender 90 Wanna Be, and I am 21 year old, from Bogotá (Colombia),
I´ve been looking for a D90 since June 97 but I haven´t found one yet, let
me tell you here in colombia a brand new D97 is 47.000 here, so I don,t
have that money, but I have 30k if any one of you knows of any please let
me know.

Since I was a kid I remember seen lots of LR "santana" (I think 88´ series
II) in my home town, Pasto. south of colombia, those are quite popular
here, they are spanish made. and there are still around, here LR is a
legend, and since we have the "APERTURA" ( thats how the goverment called
the right for free importation" in 1992 many cars start comming here with
them the defender, disco, range but no parenties. And many others specially
new models in other marks. I don´t have the oportunity to import one,
because the importation tax is 45% here.
The four weeling culture here is reserved for people with a little high
cultural level who is interested in machine sports, an from a upper middle
class and higer. the most people here is interested  just in football, and
we have another four weeling sport here is called "saltamontismo" is a race
in mud. The four weeling here is ruled by Toyota, and Nissan since the
"santana" is no longer here. The reason is that there is a toyota factory
here. and the nissan importation never stopped.
I hope in find one soon and join the machanical talk too.

Camilo Osejo Bucheli.
Bogota (Colombia)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 18:01:32 -0500
From: Eric Zipkin <ericz@cloud9.net>
Subject: Tires

	Anyone know of a good source for 6.00x16 tires?  Checked Coker tire and
they've only got military style and a knobby style that probably wouldn't
look too good on an 80".... any help would be appreciated.

	Rgds,
	Eric

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 98 17:44:20 EST
Subject: Re[2]: MPG

> Think that the Rovers are
>not as bad as everybody thinks.

I remember that there was a review of the Range Rover 4.6 HSE in one of the 
street car rags, claiming average of *9* mpg. Don't remember if that was hwy or 
city or both or what, but it's half of the 17-18 I get in the 88 with OD.

>>(yes D-90 mpg is very ugly but............)

not as ugly as you Rick!

just kidding, man, it's me, Dave...when are we going off-road again, I'm 
sad that I didn't bring my truck last time.

Plus I wanna see this new deisel that Dave R. bought.

Sorry to bum the list out with this shite...

later
DaveB. 

Later 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 18:12:01 -0500
From: Matt Nelson <nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu>
Subject: Re: Tires

The old NTD milatary tires used to be used on the 80" LRs a lot, I,ve
seen them with them in lots of pics, it looks OK to me but it is
probably just a maatter of personal taste...

anyway try  
http://www.wallacewade.com/
If they don't have a tire or can't get it they'll make it(for enough $$
of course) they have almost everything and the prices at least used to
be very good, call them though, I've emailed them twice and never gotten
a response, whenever I called though they were very helpful

matt

Eric Zipkin wrote:
>         Anyone know of a good source for 6.00x16 tires?  Checked Coker tire and
> they've only got military style and a knobby style that probably wouldn't
> look too good on an 80".... any help would be appreciated.
>         Rgds,
>         Eric

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 98 18:11:31 EST
Subject: Re: Wipers, Washers & Hi-Lift J

>3.  Where, in an 88, can one mount a 48" Hi-Lift jack?   I don't have a roof
>rack (car barely fits into garage as it is).   Thanks in advance.

1. remove spare tyre bracket from rear bulkhead, use standard "jak-rak" to 
mount it horizontally
pros: looks good, leaves lots o'room, doesn't protrude where it might hurt 
someone. 
cons: no more spare tyre thingy, tough to get to in a pinch

2. stick bolt through spare tyre mount and lay jack across be on top of 
wheelwells. 
pros: it fits
cons: rubs a hole in your wheel well after 20 years or so. makes noise, 
makes spare tyre not fit so great

3. mount vertically on floor behind rear bulkhead, a la Mike Loiodice (sp?)
with a bolt through the body capping on the bulkhead
pros: looks neat/rugged
cons: visible to theives/makes a nice skull cracker for those whiplash 
moments

4. horizontal fron to back in bed of truck, clip to side of wheelwell using 
"jac-rak" or other 
pros: out of the way, easy to get to
cons if you are rear-ended it will get shoved through your spine.

5. my favorite. mount vertically on top of rear grab handle, either side, 
so that it blocks one of the little side windows.
pros: easy to get to, out of the way, wont kill anyone, looks really 
"groovy"
cons: must drill at least one hole in outer body of truck.

6. take it apart, store the rack and handle behind the seats. the rest goes 
under the left front seat.
pros: you'll never even have to look at it
cons: you'll lose the parts

7. across front bumper.
pros: looks intimidating
cons: won't work too well after you hit a few trees.

My basic take on the whole issue is that for a daily driver 88, there 
really is no GREAT place for it. I carry a bottle jack for changing tires, 
the Hi-lift gets stored on the spare mount behing the front seats until 
such time as I can fabricate number 5.
The other option, which is REALLY long term, is to make a swing away tire 
carrier that has space to mount a jerrycan or two and the jack. This would 
IDEAL. Either way, I don't see a need to carry it everywhere I go, just to 
rallies and off-roading.

Later
Dave

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 98 18:15:50 EST
Subject: Re: Tires

eric, just go to your local mom and pop tyre place. Or look under "tires 
for trucks" in the yeller pages. They can still get the bias plys they just 
don't put em out on the floor.

later
DaveB.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 18:42:18 -0500
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: cam timing

Jim Allen responded to one of my earlier post on cam timing as follows : - 

  "Most engines have a dwell period at peak lift. All you have to do is mark
the point when the tappet starts lifting and mark the point at which the
tappet begins to descend, find the halfway point between thes two marks on
your degree wheels  (as I recall it's something like 5 degrees dwell?) and
you have the peak lift point. Rather a pain in the butt, though."

        Jim Allen
 
 Jim, I enjoy reading your contributions to the digest, and have always
found them to be acurate and informative,  in this instance I have to take
issue with your writing.
 I think you have  made the error of trying to write something that you
understand,  and probably read it as you would do it, but  following your
instructions verbatim would result in inaccurate timing.
 The important part about splitting the marks to find the centre is that
both marks should be made at the same point on the tappet, i.e when the
tappet starts to lift and when the tappet is in the same position on its
downstroke as it was when it was marked on the upstroke. This is what the
book tells you to do, advising the use of a dial gauge to get the required
accuracy.. This was the point in my original posting to refer the reader to
some proper instructions for the procedure.
 Your instruction states  " the point at which the tappet "" starts"" to
descend. This point is therefore immediaitely after the dwwell and could
therefore result in the timing being off 20 or 30 degrees.
   Regards 
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 18:56:49 -0500
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: dist drive gear

John Baker writes for advice  re timing of dist drive gear.
 The grub screw in the oil filter housing face has a plain portion on the
end, since it is a quarter screw, say 3/16  th dia  which is sized to fit
inside  the larger hole in the drive gear bearing to locate it in the
correct position.
 You will find that on fitting the drive gear that due to the helical gear
teeth the gear rotates as it is inserted. It is therfore necessary to
anticipate this rotation prior to fitting the gear so that when the gear is
in the appropriate position the holes line up. If you get the holes close,
they can easily be closely aligned by using a small rod  to rotate or lift
the bush slightly.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

From: DHW4U <DHW4U@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 18:45:07 EST
Subject: Re: Wipers, Washers & Hi-Lift J

front bumper for sure had mine there moves trees

dave walls
dhw4u@aol.com
65 88' 2a (landchaser)

------------------------------

From: "daviscar" <Daviscar@concentric.net>
Subject: Re: bouncing speedometer
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 18:41:51 -0600

 At 01:48 PM 1/10/98 -0600, pcaropreso wrote:
> :The needle in the speedometer of my '62 S IIA  rises appropriately to 20
> :mph, and then, at about 30 mph, it starts bouncing all over the place.

Could also be the nut on the transmission brake hub is not tight.
Be there do that.

Bruce Davis
Daviscar@concentric.net

------------------------------

From: "daviscar" <Daviscar@concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Dealing with Freezing Rain
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 18:23:26 -0600

----------
> From: Bert P. Krages <krages@teleport.com>
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> I was driving in freezing rain yesterday and ended up with my windshield
> covered with ice.  The Smith heater couldn't keep the windshield warn
> enough.  Any suggestions on how to deal with this problem?  Taking the
top
> off and lowering the windshield is not a viable option.

A store here in Chicago called Boats us has small remote ceramic heaters
for about $25.00-$30.00  I think they were 800W if it works for a boat
windshield it should work on an LR's. 

Bruce Davis
SIIA 88 Patches
Chicago. USA.
Daviscar@concentric.net

------------------------------

From: "The Stockdales" <mstockdale@mho.net>
Subject: RE U-Joints
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 18:41:38 -0700
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ]
	charset="iso-8859-1"

NADdMD@aol.com Wrote that he changed a u-joint and ruined his vise for =
$18.00.  Not such a good deal!  I have also tried to use my vise to =
press certain parts.  This resulted in the same ruining of the screw =
(Sears wouldn't replace even though it says craftsman).  I have also =
learned that the local drive line repair shop only charges $15.00 =
installed for a u-joint.  The technician was able to match the joint to =
a standard of the shelf unit.  better luck next time.

------=_NextPart_000_0018_01BD1F89.B7625F60
	[ Original post was HTML ]
	charset="iso-8859-1"

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><A
href=3D"mailto:NADdMD@aol.com">NADdMD@aol.com</A> Wrote that he changed =
a u-joint
and ruined his vise for $18.00.&nbsp; Not such a good deal!&nbsp; I have =
also
tried to use my vise to press certain parts.&nbsp; This resulted in the =
same
ruining of the screw (Sears wouldn't replace even though it says
craftsman).&nbsp; I have also learned that the local drive line repair =
shop only
charges $15.00 installed for a u-joint.&nbsp; The technician was able to =
match
the joint to a standard of the shelf unit.&nbsp; better luck next
time.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0018_01BD1F89.B7625F60--

------------------------------

From: "Eyres, Richard RP" <Eyres.Richard.RP@bhp.com.au>
Subject: RE: Wipers, Washers & Hi-Lift J
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 15:09:00 +1100

 ----------
>From: LT J Jackson

>3.  Where, in an 88, can one mount a 48" Hi-Lift jack?   I don't have a
roof
>rack (car barely fits into garage as it is).   Thanks in advance.

>Jeff Jackson
>73 SIII 88
>Waterford, CT

In my SWB S3 HT, I have made up a couple of brackets and have mounted my
hi lift jack to the rear side of the bulkhead behind the seats.

Richard,
New Zealand

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 20:46:12 -0600 (CST)
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@ricochet.net>
Subject: Re: MPG

At 09:59 PM 1/9/98 -1000, you wrote:
>	I'll bite Uncle Roger.  How do you get 16 mpg.  My 88 only gets 15 in the
>hills here.  If we have to drive a dog slow car, it could at least deliver

Um...  stay away from hills?  Actually, I'm not sure.  It wasn't anything
special: '59 2.25l, weber 1bbl, headers, Radial Rover tires (not too
aggressive).  I dunno.  I'm really p.o.'d I killed it.  

>Still looking for that magic bullet, 0-60 in 6 seconds, able to climb
>trees, deliver 25 mpg, cost as little to own as my 30 year old series

Me too...  8^)

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
roger@sinasohn.com                           that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 20:46:37 -0600 (CST)
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@ricochet.net>
Subject: Re: Any Series One Owners Out There?

At 10:44 PM 1/10/98 -0800, you wrote:
>:58 Ser One 109 PU
>:renken@foto.infi.net
> Shouldn't that be a 107 PU if a Series 1??  Maybe you
> have a Series II 109?  Many Series II parts fit a late
> Series 1.

 
I have seen (and have photos somewhere of) a '58 (iirc) s1 88".  Yep, it was
an 88" wheelbase but a s1 body.  So I suspect htere may be s1 109's out
there too.

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
roger@sinasohn.com                           that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 21:42:27 EST
Subject: Re: RE U-Joints

In a message dated 1/12/98 8:48:03 PM Eastern Standard Time,
mstockdale@mho.net writes:

<< NADdMD@aol.com Wrote that he changed a u-joint and ruined his vise for =
 $18.00.  Not such a good deal!  I have also tried to use my vise to =
 press certain parts.  This resulted in the same ruining of the screw =
 (Sears wouldn't replace even though it says craftsman).  I have also =
 learned that the local drive line repair shop only charges $15.00 =
 installed for a u-joint.  The technician was able to match the joint to =
 a standard of the shelf unit.  better luck next time >>

Oh, I don't know, U joint and new (and bigger) bench vise for $18 is a fair
enough deal for me.  If I went to the local shop they wouldn't have replaced
the vise with a bigger one when they did the U joint ; 0

Nate

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 22:09:32 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Dealing with Freezing Rain

> A store here in Chicago called Boats us has small remote ceramic
> heaters
> for about $25.00-$30.00  I think they were 800W if it works for a boat
> windshield it should work on an LR's.

800W is around 65a at 12v. Unless you have a very large alternator and
wiring to match, you won't get much heat for long.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 22:19:59 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Tires

Eric Zipkin wrote:

>         Anyone know of a good source for 6.00x16 tires?  Checked Coker
> tire and
> they've only got military style and a knobby style that probably
> wouldn't
> look too good on an 80".... any help would be appreciated.

>From what I could see from their web site pictures the knobby style has
small "knobs" and should look reasonable. Coker, Lucas, & Universal all
carry several brands of "regular" style 6.00X16 tires. The treads may
not be agggresive enough to look right. A M&S style would be prefered
though. Let us know if you find a source.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 23:26:07 -0500
From: Brett Storey <brstore@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Dist Oil Pump Drive Gear (fwd)

John

The easiest way I've found is to just insert the drive gear so it is lined up
correctly, stick a small screwdriver or similarly pointed object into the grub
screw hole till it is just touching the drive gear bush, then grasping with a
pair of pliers, carefully wiggle the drive gear up and down. This wiggling
causes the bush to rotate and before you know it, your screwdriver pops into
the grub screw hole. Hold your breath, remove screwdriver, and insert grub
screw. This has worked well for me on several occasions.

Hope this helps.

Brett

John M. Baker wrote:

> Long time lurker, first time attempting to communicate! I am trying to
> install the distributor and oil pump drive gear on my Series III 109
> Petrol (circa 1976). No problem getting gear to line up correctly and
> point to TDC, but am not sure if the grub screw must engage large hole
> in drive gear bush or not. My Haynes manual says position so that small
> hole is facing towards the oil filter mounting face at the point where the
> grubscrew is located (p. 1.15), so I assume that the grub screw must
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
> Regards,
> John Baker, Bangkok

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 20:44:13 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Subject: Hi-Lift J installation

At 03:09 PM 1/13/98 +1100, Eyres, Richard RP wrote:
:>From: LT J Jackson
:>3.  Where, in an 88, can one mount a 48" Hi-Lift jack?
:>Jeff Jackson, 73 SIII 88, Waterford, CT

:In my SWB S3 HT, I have made up a couple of brackets and have mounted my
:hi lift jack to the rear side of the bulkhead behind the seats.
:
:Richard, New Zealand

 Mine fits in the right side of the rear cargo area foot well,
 just in front of the screw that holds the door safety catch
 on the floor.  The plate of the jack is up against the seat
 divider in the front, and the handle is on the down side of
 bar with the lift hook (?) pointing down.  The tool box is
 wedged up against it and held in with a bungi cord.  This is
 known as the 'California method' of installation.

-Michael

 72-88, 50-80, 89-RR
 Yep, you guessed it, living in California ;)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 21:51:19 -0800
From: Granville Pool <gpool@pacific.net>
Subject: Bye for now

Folks, 

I must say goodbye to these lists (both LRO & RRO), at least for a while.
Interfering with work too much.  Hopefully I'll be back in the fulness of
time.  Thanks to all for all you've shared!

Cheers,

Granny
Redwood Valley, CA, USA

------------------------------

From: Ian Otty <imo@kerridge.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 98 08:16:51 GMT
Subject: SER: Fitting 200/300TDi to series 3?

I have been told recently that the 200/300TDi engine will bolt 
directly into a series3 (previously fitted with 2.25 diesel) with no 
modifications required to the chassis engine mounts and without the 
need for any adaptor for the S3 g'box. Is this true?

I am aware that the battery will need to be re-located as well as 
various other ancilliary bits & pieces, as well as needing new 
radiator etc.

Does anybody have the spec for power ouputs/torque figures for all 
the LR diesel engines for comparison.

Also does anybody know where in the UK I can purchase MACH 5 wheels 
from.

Many thanks,

Ian 
(series 3 hybrid still in bits - to be on the road again this 
year!!!!)

------------------------------

From: Autoconv <Autoconv@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 03:46:31 EST
Subject: Re: SER: Fitting 200/300TDi to series 3?

Hi Ian

Yes this is nearly true, a 200 will bolt in, the 300 will need small clutch
cover housing mods. Rather than put in on the 4 speed box we are now making a
conversion kit which will let you use the 5 speed and then fit the Series III
transfer case on either the LT 77 (200 Tdi) or the R380 (300 Tdi).

If you would like details let me know.

David Ashcroft (Automatic Conversions UK)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 09:16:33 +0000
From: Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Subject: [Fwd: New landrover site]

This came this morning:

------ Include message ---------

My name is Duncan Ridgeley, I work for Land Rover and I just wanted to let
you know that the official Global Land Rover web site is now live at
http://www.landroverworld.com/

If you have any requests or comments, please don't hesitate to contact me
on duncan@akqa.com

------ End include -------

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)
    Medicine & Veterinary medicine Support Team,
    University Computing Services, 
    Edinburgh University. 
    Phone: +44 131 650 3027

Personal Web pages: <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------

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