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Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 23:34:33 +0700 (ICT)
From: "John M. Baker" <jbaker@ksc8.th.com>
Subject: Dist Oil Pump Drive Gear (fwd)

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 18:52:34 +0700 (ICT)
From: "John M. Baker" <jbaker@ksc8.th.com>
Subject: Dist Oil Pump Drive Gear

Long time lurker, first time attempting to communicate! I am trying to
install the distributor and oil pump drive gear on my Series III 109
Petrol (circa 1976). No problem getting gear to line up correctly and
point to TDC, but am not sure if the grub screw must engage large hole
in drive gear bush or not. My Haynes manual says position so that small
hole is facing towards the oil filter mounting face at the point where the
grubscrew is located (p. 1.15), so I assume that the grub screw must
engage the hole, but how in the world do you line that up when the gear is
turning to engage the cam, etc???

Regards,

John Baker, Bangkok 

------------------------------

From: "Dries Venter" <ventera@ilink.nis.za>
Subject: Re: bouncing speedometer
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 21:20:33 +0200

Your speedo cable has a kink in it somewhere.  As to the optimistic
reading, that's a calibration issue, or you have undersize (compared to
standard) tyres, or somewhere in the drivetrain there's a smaller gear
(maybe in the diff's?) than standard. You could try to get a different
(more teeth) pinion gear for the speedo cable.  I don't know if this is
possible on LandRovers.

Dries Venter
Pretoria
South Africa
1985 Defender PUP V8 aka "The Yellow Submarine"
----------
  From: pcaropreso <pcaropr8@rconnect.com>
  The needle in the speedometer of my '62 S IIA  rises appropriately to 20
  mph, and then, at about 30 mph, it starts bouncing all over the place.
  If it settles down, it is a speed much faster than I am actually going,
  at least judging by traffic and the speed limit in town. I took it
<etc>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 16:50:34 -0500
From: Garret Scott <scottgs@usit.net>
Subject: Surplus Tyre Chain site on the Web

I found this site a few weeks ago on the web.  They seem to be selling a
lot of US Mil surplus tyre chains in a large range of truck tyre sizes. 
Prices didn't look dirt cheap though.  I haven't done any business with
them.

http://www.colemans.com/army.html

Garret Scott
scottgs@usit.net

*****STANDARD COMMERCIAL DISCLAIMER FOR SENSITIVE LIST READERS*****

I do hope any commercial content in this post does not offend anyone or
is not considered inappropriate for the list. I just feel it would be
helpful for those of us seeking alternative parts sources for our Land
Rover and UNIMOG vehicles.  I have no connection, other than as a
possible customer, with any of the companies involed.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 16:52:59 -0500
From: Garret Scott <scottgs@usit.net>
Subject: TracEdge Tyre's at Sam's Wholesale!

I was in the local Sam's store here in Knoxville last week and noticed
they had a several types of Mud/Snow tires on thier rack including some
BFG. Well I have been intending to try the BFG Trac-Edge tyres on my
Rangie as soon as the Michelins finally were out (I'm beginning to think
they won't).  Anyway, I inquired, and they can order a lot of tyres,
including the BFG Trac-Edge.  They are in the official SAM's tyre
catalog.  

Prices seem pretty good, especially if you consider that the price
includes FREE mounting, lifetime balancing, and valve stem.

BFG Trac Edge 225/75R16 $114.95 each
BFG Trac Edge 215/85R16 $94.95 each

Delivery would take about 4 days.

They had many more tyres listed, but I didn't get the prices.

Once I order them I'll let everyone know how it works out.  I have
procured tyres at SAM's before and had very good experiences. 

I do hope any commercial content in this post does not offend anyone or
is not considered inappropriate for the list. I just feel it would be
helpful for those of us seeking alternative parts sources for our Land
Rover vehicles.  I have no connection, other than as a customer, with
any of the companies involed.

Garret Scott
With too many Rovers to list today.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 18:07:46 -0800
From: Dave Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Steering Problem

I replaced the springs, bushes, tie-rod ends, Raylco bushes etc. on my
Ser IIA.  Now it rides wonderfully and has good spring action but it
feels a bit "squishy" as it were when you turn from side to side.  It
has what I would describe as an insecure feeling about where it is
heading.  Everything is tight and the only thing I haven't done
including putting new tyres on is get an alignment after all my work.  I
will do that Tues.  Anyone else had this problem.  The steering box is
tight and the relay is working properly.  Would a steering damper make
much difference except off road to stop wheel excursion when you hit a
rut?  It isn't dangerous or anything but I want a showroom condition
Rover after all I have done to it over the years.  It looks showroom and
except for this runs showroom.  By the way, we have dropped to the low
-20 and -30 temps and my auxiliary heater I installed is keeping the
inside warm.  No breath to see and the windows are clear.  It sits
outside all day and starts first go.  Wonder never cease.:-)
Dave VE4PN
P.S. I will be on 20 meters this evening (Sunday 1:00 GMT) 14150

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 20:04:19 EST
Subject: U joint replacement/Vise Replacement

Hi all,

This weekend I replaced my worn U joints.  After picking out and resetting the
needle bearings several times by following the workshop manual (tap the caps
into the yoke with a yadda, yadda, yadda), I decided to try to press in the
caps with my bench vise.  It worked well to press them level with the yoke,
thus allowing me to tap them down a little farther to get the circlip in.
However in the process of doing the second set of caps (finishing the job) I
broke the vise!  Shattered the threaded sleeve that the large bolt thing spins
in to tighten the jaws--Never saw anything like it.  Since I had bought it at
H*ch!ng*rs (local hardware and lumber chain) a couple of years ago, I brought
it back.  They replaced it without a question (even gave me one size up since
they were out of stock of the exact size).  

Not a bad weekend--$18.00 for a new U joint AND bench vise.

Nate

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 23:18:11 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Steering Problem

Dave Place wrote:
> I replaced the springs, bushes, tie-rod ends, Raylco bushes etc. on my
> Ser IIA.  Now it rides wonderfully and has good spring action but it
> feels a bit "squishy" as it were when you turn from side to side.  It
> has what I would describe as an insecure feeling about where it is
> heading.  Everything is tight and the only thing I haven't done
> including putting new tyres on is get an alignment after all my work.  I
> will do that Tues.  Anyone else had this problem.  The steering box is
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 19 lines)]
> Dave VE4PN
> P.S. I will be on 20 meters this evening (Sunday 1:00 GMT) 14150
If you have done all else Check to see that the wheel bearings are
adjusted properly as loose wheels will feel just as you describe and
another thought have your U bolts on the springs backed off so that one
of the axles is moving around?
     John and Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 23:24:34 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: bouncing speedometer

Dries Venter wrote:
> Your speedo cable has a kink in it somewhere.  As to the optimistic
> reading, that's a calibration issue, or you have undersize (compared to
> standard) tyres, or somewhere in the drivetrain there's a smaller gear
> (maybe in the diff's?) than standard. You could try to get a different
> (more teeth) pinion gear for the speedo cable.  I don't know if this is
> possible on LandRovers.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)]
>   at least judging by traffic and the speed limit in town. I took it
> <etc>
On series Land rovers the most common causr of bouncing speedos is a
loose nut found behind the flange at the front of the rear drive shaft.
the speedo drive pinion is a pinch fit drive held by this nut.It need to
be a tight as you can get it with an ordinary 1/2 in drive ratchet.
 This a more likely solution than the others recently posted.
     John and Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 23:32:29 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Ice Storm no LR content

If some fellow listers are wondering why there has been so little word
from those in eastern Canada and the north east USA.it because there has
one hellacious Ice storm lasting as long as 5 days in some of the area.
The area between MontreaL and Ottawa and down into New York and Vermont
States have been the worst hit with Millions without power and therefore
the Net. Many are still down.
     Wish them well as it is getting very cold.
     John and Muddy.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 22:34:11 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Steering Problem

Dave Place wrote:

> I replaced the springs, bushes, tie-rod ends, Raylco bushes etc. on my
> Ser IIA.  Now it rides wonderfully and has good spring action but it
> feels a bit "squishy" as it were when you turn from side to side.  It
> has what I would describe as an insecure feeling about where it is
> heading.

>  Everything is tight and the only thing I haven't done
> including putting new tyres on is get an alignment after all my work.
> I
> will do that Tues.

You probably have toe-out rather than toe-in. Alignment should cure it.
About the only thing to align on a LR is the toe.  BTW, the factory
manual specifies 3/64" to 3/32" toe-in.

Check that everything is tight anyway. Did you set the Railco bushing
pre-load?

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 23:17:17 -0800 (PST)
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: Cam timing

 >  One of the differences in the LR cam to many other vehicles  is that it
>has a dwell period at peak lift, thus techniques which rely on finding the
>max lift are useless. I have seen expereinced mechanics fall foul of this,
>particularly with the diesel engine.

>Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile )
> 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR

Most engines have a dwell period at peak lift. All you have to do is mark
the point when the tappet starts lifting and mark the point at which the
tappet begins to descend, find the halfway point between thes two marks on
your degree wheels  (as I recall it's something like 5 degrees dwell?) and
you have the peak lift point. Rather a pain in the butt, though.

        Jim Allen

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 09:15:53 +0100
From: Jan Engborg <engborg@huslak-sandviken.se>
Subject: Re: trying to subscribe

For many years I have been on the list.
A few weeks ago I suddenly received no mail.

So, I have tried four times to get on the list again.  Every time I get a
message from majordomo that something´s wrong with my way of subscribing. I
do it exactly as the LRO web-page says.
I write only: "subscribe lro-list" in the body of the message, nothing more.

Can anyone help me? What is wrong?

Regards,

Jan Engborg
engborg@huslak-sandviken.se

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 20:57:21 +0000
From: Duncan Phillips <dunk@ivanhoe.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Subject: wot no idle??

Hi all....

I thought I'd recount my weekend's activities (LR-wise) as a cautionary
tale and to give you a giggle.....

Friday evening, about to drive home only to find that she win't idle AT
ALL. "Hmmmmm" thinks I, "must be a blocked idle jet on the carb". So come
saturday afternoon, the bonnet's off and the carb's in bits. I check every
jet, clean the float chamber and so on (I've now got the cleanest 34ICH in
the western hemisphere) - but to no avail.

Sunday, me and my good lady trundle over to the parent's house to visit
(free sunday lunch). While there we dig out father's
auto-multimeter-all-singing-all-dancing-gizmo-thingy to check the idle RPM.
While connecting the meter to the coil I had to trace which wire went from
the coil to the dizzy and lo and behold the wire had become trapped between
the accelerator linkage and the stop!! (but only when your foot is off the
pedal = IDLE!!) it turned out that the cable was getting crushed and
earthing through the accelerator stop - I freed it and she ticked over
wonderfully!!

The moral of this story is "when you've got a problem, diagnose a reason
and then start at the furthest possible point and work back towards you
hypothesis".

It could've taken hours of fiddling and messing and head-scratching to find
this problem I guess I was lucky!!

*******************************
Duncan Phillips
1980 SWB SIII 'Evie'
http://Gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~cmtdmp/play/lrover/
*******************************
Big Bad n' Blue

------------------------------

From: "Colin Marshall" <colmar@picknowl.com.au>
Subject: Powder Coating and Sandblasting
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 12:26:45 +1030

G'day Gang,
Just thought with all this talk about the subject going on, I'd throw my
bit in.
My brother, Alan Marshall, owns a powdercoating plant here in South Oz, and
regularly sandblasts and powdercoats all manner of parts for vehicles with
great success.
It is extremely good on chassis etc. and is very hard wearing and easy to
keep clean.
In some cases, it will not do the same job as a properly prepared, painted
surface, but for underbody stuff especially, it is great.
If anyone has any questions about it, he can be emailed at
acae@picknowl.com.au, and I'm sure he'll be quite happy to answer any
queries.

Have a good one...
Colin Marshall
colmar@picknowl.com.au
54 Atkinson Drive,
Burton.
South Australia.
5110.
'52 80" SWB #26660838
(2 more pending...Don't laugh!)

------------------------------

From: gehl@at.crane.navy.mil
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 18:26:35 +0000
Subject: 109 Search Ideas

I have been seeking a 109 for awhile, but seem to keep bumping 
upon 88's.  So I ask, since most original 88's need frame work, what 
of buying an 88, putting a new 109 frame underneath and seek only the 
109 pickup bed?  Is this as simple as I make it?  Is the 109 bed a 
separate item, a la US pickup trucks?  Is a 109  bed impossible to 
find in the US?  Mark       

------------------------------

From: gehl@at.crane.navy.mil
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 18:28:24 +0000
Subject: Series Driver Tool Kit?

For those who drive their LR series everyday, what tools/supplies do 
you carry?  Mark

------------------------------

From: gehl@at.crane.navy.mil
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 18:39:13 +0000
Subject: 265ci 6 Cylinder vs 4 Cylinder Iron Duke

Can anyone comment on the relative merits of the Chrysler 265ci
6 cylinder versus the 2.5L 4 cylinder GM Iron Duke?
Mark 

------------------------------

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