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Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 14:36:28 +0200
From: CONRAD BONORCHIS <BONC@kidd.Co.Za>
Subject: Europe Fog Light Specs

Hi all.

I'm planning a trip in April from South Africa, up east Africa, across
Europe and up to London. Planning a trip one hears of many requirements
in the countries (true/false/rumoured/etc).
One of these is that the vehicles need fog light/s on the rear for Europe.

need to repair the Is*z*s, N*ss*n and T*y*ta that are tagging along.)
My question is....where must this light be fitted to the vehicle. Is one
enough, or are 2 needed? Left/Right side? How high? Should it be
directed straight backwards or at a 30 degree declination toward the
road?

Any help and advise would be appreciated.

Cheers
Conrad
bonc@kidd.co.za

'84 R6 109 2,6 S/W  - "C'mon kids, think of a name for the Landie"

------------------------------

From: Andy Phillips <AnPi@norsk-data.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Europe Fog Light Specs
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 13:10:56 -0000

I've no idea of the required brightness of the bulb, but my Land Rover
has a single fog lamp fixed flush to the rear of the vehicle at the same
height as the reversing lamp, but on the opposite side of the rear door.
Both lights are of equal height (position), not more than 6 inches above
the rear bumper and are of equal height (size) and width. Being factory
fitted, this is OK for the UK and Europe as far as I know. When
travelling to France, people in the UK are advised to get their
headlights adjusted but nothing else is done to the lights. That's all I
know. Hope it helps.

Andy.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	CONRAD BONORCHIS [SMTP:BONC@kidd.Co.Za]
> Sent:	Friday, January 09, 1998 12:36 PM
> To:	lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject:	Europe Fog Light Specs

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 33 lines)]
> bonc@kidd.co.za
> '84 R6 109 2,6 S/W  - "C'mon kids, think of a name for the Landie"

------------------------------

From: MurphyK1@psgvl.ps.ge.com
Subject: RE: E Coating, was Powder Coating
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 08:15:58 -0500

> John Dillingham said:
> >Jack Walter in Roswell, GA recently had the bulkhead to his IIa
> E-coated. He
> >said they charged the item to be coated and then dipped it. It looked
> great,
> Gord'n Perrott of Seattle was building an 88" coiler (Arrow chassis)
> and
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
> Series Land-Rover, I'd powder-coat the radiator breakfast panel as
> well.
I am restoring a '67 SIIA 88" (Nancy) and am in the process of sanding
and painting the bulkhead.  All this talk about Power Coating /
Galvanizing etc. has me thinking...  Do I want to stop what I am doing
and pay someone to dip and coat the bulkhead?  I have already replaced
the footwells and the only rust that remains is surface rust.  So, is it
worth the bucks or will I be just as effective sanding and painting as
the damage isn't that bad?  (Pictures are available at
http://members.carol.net/murphyk/index/rover.html )

Does anyone have any idea how much it would cost to have someone prep
the bulkhead?  Or, better yet, does anyone have any tips that I might be
able to use in my limited shop.  (And no, I don't have an oven big
enough to fit the bulkhead in to Powder Coat it myself.)

Thanks in advance,

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 14:17:52 +0000
From: Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Europe Fog Light Specs

CONRAD BONORCHIS wrote:
> One of these is that the vehicles need fog light/s on the rear for Europe.
I don't think fog light are mandetory, certainly not in the UK.

If they are fitted, however, they must work

> (No problem because the fog lights can make a nice worklight for when i
> need to repair the Is*z*s, N*ss*n and T*y*ta that are tagging along.)
A rear fog light is 21Watt *red* lamp

> My question is....where must this light be fitted to the vehicle. Is one
> enough, or are 2 needed? Left/Right side? How high? Should it be
> directed straight backwards or at a 30 degree declination toward the
> road?
The usual pattern is a rectangular light, mounted squarely to the back of
the vehicle. Only one is needed, usually mounted on the off-side.  I say
usually, as mine is mounted on the nearside...

-- 

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)
    Medicine & Veterinary medicine Support Team,
    University Computing Services, 
    Edinburgh University. 
    Phone: +44 131 650 3027

Personal Web pages: <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 10:41:47 -0500 (EST)
From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Subject: RE: E Coating, was Powder Coating

>> John Dillingham said:
>> >Jack Walter in Roswell, GA recently had the bulkhead to his IIa
>	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 17 lines)]
>> Series Land-Rover, I'd powder-coat the radiator breakfast panel as
>> well.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 24 lines)]
>enough to fit the bulkhead in to Powder Coat it myself.)
>Thanks in advance,

I'd atleast sping for a few $$ to have the whole bit sandblasted.  I guy at
a local monument works(grave markers) blasted mine on his lunch break for a
little ca$h.... if you know what I mean..    It turned out great, got all
the P.O. goo and bondo out of it so I could see what was good and what was
rot.  Hope this helps.

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
Pittsburgh, Pa.

------------------------------

From: reynoldsg@tfn.com
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 11:03:11 -0500
Subject: Monthly Boston Area Get Together

Bill Caloccia <caloccia@senie.com> wrote:

> Was there a Framingham gathering this week, I don't recall seeing 
> anything on it ?

It's on January 14th, the 2nd Wednesday of the month.  7:30 at John 
Harvards Brew House in Framingham (at Shoppers World in Framingham - 
Mass Pike to Route 30, follow Shoppers World signs and you'll see the 
Brew House on the left).  If anyone needs more specific directions, 
send me an email.

Hope to see a bunch of the list members there.

Jeff Reynolds
1995 Beluga Black Discovery
Rovers North Roof Rack
4 Hella Rallye 4000's
1 Hella Work Lamp

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 08:20:08 -0800
From: john hess <jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: powder coating

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
What's the fascination with the Powder Coating method of surface treatment?
I've had several items that were done when I bought them and none lasted too
long. One example was a brushguard on a 94 D90 TDI that got nicked in a few
places and started to rust and bubble immediately and there was no apparent
cure.

Hi,

I will add that my experiences are not glowing either.  Had a Dormobile
roof rack stripped and powder coated.  I was assured that the phosphate
coating and powdercoating would make the rack perfect forever.  Well, ain't
so.  They loosened 2 bolts to hang the rack during baking.  The threads of
the bolts were coated and hence, no longer acted like bolts.  I replaced
them with Stainless.  The tighening of the bolts scratched the PC just like
paint and after exposure to the elements, some rust is staining in places.
The rust may be coming from inside of the tubes and leaking out (the rack
goes on and off and gets rotated into different positions) but I'm not
convinced

John F Hess   jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us
Land Rover Dormobile web pages:
http://wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us/~jfhess/homepage.html
1968 Land Rover Dormobile "Elvis"
1960 swb pu "Stubby" (actually Katherine's),
1960 swb roadster "Slug" (Alex's) Slug needs everything, donations accepted

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 08:17:16 -0800 (PST)
From: "Paul Gussack" <pcg@tennis.org>
Subject: major?

Hello
is the list out there.  I haven't received any list mail since before xmas and
cannot connect to the mailing list web site.  Is it me or the major?   

please email me at pcg@tennis.org and let me know whats up.  

I'm going into withdraw and may even be forced to work on my truck.

Thanks
Paul G
SIII SWB "Grendal"

------------------------------

From: MurphyK1@psgvl.ps.ge.com
Subject: RE: E Coating, was Powder Coating
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 11:31:06 -0500

> I'd atleast sping for a few $$ to have the whole bit sandblasted.  I
> guy at
> a local monument works(grave markers) blasted mine on his lunch break
> for a
> little ca$h.... if you know what I mean..    It turned out great, got
> all
> the P.O. goo and bondo out of it so I could see what was good and what
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
> Russ Wilson
> Leslie Bittner
Russ,

How did the sand handle in all the cracks and joints in the bulkhead
when you had it blasted?  I'd think that the sand would just fill in
those areas instead of stripping the rust. 

The areas of concern for me are the joints between the pieces of metal
that are factory spot welded together and between the water drainage
catcher underneath the bonnet and the firewall.  It's seems quite
difficult to get anything in there to get rid of the rust other than
dipping it.  If blasting works, I'd give that a shot.

Thanks,

Kevin
Greenville SC

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: Bulkhead restoring, was powdercoating.
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 08:57:13 -0800

I am also in the middle of restoring the bulkhead (must be the January
thing to do) on my '61 SWB.

When I got the vehicle, the bulkhead was a mess.  At least three
colours, rusted out footwells, and a layer of 20 year old sound proofing
goo all over the lower inside bits.  I had it dipped in acid at the
local Redi Strip shop - along with the breakfast panel - and it came
back looking great!  All the rust was gone including the rust inside the
door pillars which would be missed otherwise.  The steel that was
covered in goo came out looking brand new!  I could see the original
marks left by the folding presses at the factory.  It was so clean that
one of the body shops I took it to for an estimate, asked if it was made
of stainless steel!

The only problem with the Redi Strip process that I had was a
disappearing RHD steering column blanking plate as it was held in with
aluminum rivets which dissolved in the tank.  Make sure that you remove
any aluminum bits!

Despite the tales that I have heard from people regarding leaking acid
residue ect. I would recommend this process to anybody.

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88
Victoria, BC  Canada

>-----Original Message-----
>From:	Russ Wilson [SMTP:rwilson@usaor.net]
>Sent:	Friday, January 09, 1998 7:42 AM
>To:	lro@playground.sun.com
>Subject:	RE: E Coating, was Powder Coating

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 29 lines)]
>Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
>Pittsburgh, Pa.

------------------------------

From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Subject: re: Luxury Land Rovers
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 08:57:24 -0800

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 19:04:00 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Luxury Land Rovers

> Wall Street Journal today:

> "Luxury items have been so hot for so long that it's hard to turn
heads
with mere Land Rovers, private jets or Aspen, Colo. vacation homes."

> The author was obviously not refering to Series LRs.
> 1)  No one would consider a Series LR a "luxury item" (other than
prehaps customers of BNW)
> 2)  Series LRs still turn heads.

The Series III I bought new in 1973 gets far more attention in the
supermarket parking lot and on the road than my Range Rover.  When we
bought the Range Rover in 1991 there were very few of them in the
Seattle area, and a number of people would ask me about it.  Now, thanks
to Microsoft and others, they are common as dirt, although not as common
as the Discovery.  But the Series III almost always "draws a crowd."
It's disappointing in a way that so many owners of current Land Rovers
have no clue as to the company's history.  I've actually had new-model
Range Rover owners come up to me at the local filling station and tell
me how impressed they are that a start-up company like Land Rover could
produce such a great vehicle after only ten years in business.  These
folks apparently believe Land Rover was founded in 1987, the first year
Range Rovers were imported into the US.  I've also had a Defender owner,
who should have known better, stop me as I was getting into the Series
III and congratulate me for keeping a WWII vehicle in such great shape.

In the US, the Land Rover's image has shifted from that of a rugged work
vehicle to a luxury status item, and that seems to include the Defender
as well.  LRNA has certainly done a clever marketing job in this
respect, as it allows them to charge premium prices for the vehicles.  I
am amazed at the price of a Defender 90 in this country, especially when
you consider that, other than the engine, the model imported to the US
is not much different than the base model sold in the UK.  Yet they get
between $30K and $40K over here for a vehicle you see parked in every
farmer's barn in the UK.  I have nothing against the vehicle other than
I wish its body were as strong as the old Series body, but for what you
get, which is little more than a tool box on wheels, the prices they
command the US are pretty amazing.  And the Defender 110 must be the
best investment going in this country.  With only 500 imported in 1993
at a sticker price of $38K, I have yet to see a used one advertised for
less than $50K.  A friend of mine just bought one with less than 30K
miles on it after 3 owners.  He paid over $60K for it.  And the sad
thing is that he's told me he has no intention of ever using it on
anything other than pavement because he doesn't want to devalue his
investment.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

_______________________
C. Marin Faure
Producer, Boeing Video Services
marin.faure@boeing.com
tel(425)393-7721
fax(425)393-7741

------------------------------

From: BSharp4601 <BSharp4601@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 12:04:51 EST
Subject: IIa Pinion Oil Seal Leak

I recently had the usual problems resulting from a clogged diff breather
(blown hub and rear pinion seals) on a 63 IIa 88.  The breather was changed
and the rear hub seals replaced and are holding tight, but the rear pinion oil
seal continues to leak.  

I've replaced the original type oil seal with one of the new double lip rubber
seals (a couple of times actually) but can't get the leaks to subside.  I know
that there are paper gaskets and brass joint washers for the oil seal retainer
but I'm not sure if both are recommended for the seal retainer at the same
time or not.  I don't want to shim out the seal retainer too far by using both
a paper gasket and the brass joint washer.  The retainer is not warped nor is
it or the bevel pinion housing cracked.  Any suggestions here?  

The fit for the drive flange in the seal retainer with a new oil seal fitted
is snug so I don't think the shaft on the drive flange is too worn, the
surface is clean and smooth.  The oil seams to be leaking past the seal and
not between the bevel pinion housing and the oil seal retainer.  The rate of
the oil leak will result in the 90 weight being "pumped out" in a matter of a
couple of weeks without addressing the problem correctly.

I'm sure I'm overlooking something basic that is causing the problem and any
suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Bob

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 98 13:20:52 EST
Subject: Re: IIa Pinion Oil Seal Leak

are you sure the pinion drive flange sealing surface isn't scored? Mine was 
and a speedi sleeve cured the problem. 
Cheers
DaveB.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 13:54:41 -0500
From: "Robert A. Virzi" <rvirzi@gte.com>
Subject: trade-direct

I just found out about this service, and thought that some of you might be
interested in it, seeing the traffic in used parts between list members.

The service acts as a middleman (for 5%) to back up internet trades.  Say
party A wants to sell a locker.  B agrees to buy it for $500.  They agree
to cut Trade-Direct in on the deal, so B sends TD $525.  After TD gets the
money, A sends the locker to B.  After B inspects and accepts it, TD
releases the money to A.

I've bought and sold many things over the 'net, and so far everything has
been fine.  I've tended to limit the size of my purchases, though, to limit
risk.  I could see where this service might encourage bigger purchases.
They also have some other services, listed at:

	http://www.trade-direct.com/default.asp?R=c2k

For example you can pay for some things by credit card, and the do currency
conversion.  They also have some sort of sliding scale for their
percentage, which is at their website if you're interested.

I have no connection with these guys, and I never used them, so don't come
crying to me if they are nothing but a rippoff.  On the other hand, if you
use them and it works, I'd like to hear about it.  How's that for having my
cake and eating it too?  ;-)
		-Bob

-------------------------------------------------------
 rvirzi@gte.com  |  Be nice to your kids.  One day they
+1.781.466.2881  |               get to pick your home.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 11:58:28 -0800 (PST)
From: "Paul Gussack" <pcg@tennis.org>
Subject: paul, alan, & gerald

Thanks for the reply, i resubscribed.

That was a close call, I almost made up my mind to work on my tranny.

sorry about the mail major.

paul g
SIII SWB "Grendal"

------------------------------

From: "Dries Venter" <ventera@ilink.nis.za>
Subject: Re: Help with rough idle - sucking exhaust.
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 21:34:45 +0200

Check your exhaust valves for sealing and seating and especially the valve
springs.  Maybe someone on the list can give you the specs (i.e length and
compression rate) for these springs?  I would also check the valve timing
were I you because the symptons you describe points (me in any case)
towards a slipped tooth/cog or two.

Dries Venter
Pretoria
South Africa
1985 Defender PUP V8 aka "The Yellow Submarine"
----------
> From: debrown@srp.gov
<snip>
> 1500 HC when 500 HC is the maximum. Also, when you put your hand over the
> exhaust you can feel a fairly frequent (but not steady) miss, and
sucking.
> 2-3 times/second. As I recall, you can't notice it doing this when reving
> the engine. Obviously, the idle is pretty rough, but not extremely so.
<etc...>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 14:21:41 -0800
From: Peter <nosimport@mailbag.com>
Subject: Re: Help with rough idle - sucking exhaust.

Dries Venter wrote:
> Check your exhaust valves for sealing and seating and especially the valve
> springs.  Maybe someone on the list can give you the specs (i.e length and
> compression rate) for these springs?  I would also check the valve timing
> were I you because the symptons you describe points (me in any case)
> towards a slipped tooth/cog or two.
> Dries Venter

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 21 lines)]
> > the engine. Obviously, the idle is pretty rough, but not extremely so.
> <etc...>
Sorry I missed the beginning of this, but if the LR is a series look at
the exhaust manifold for cracks. Had several on my many LR's crack, hard
to tell w/o removal. Now it's one of the 1st thing I check!  Cheers 
Peter  
-- 
World Wide Auto Parts of Madison
2517 Seiferth Rd. Madison WI USA 53716
(608)223-9400  fax 223-9403 WATS (800)362-1025
http://www.mailbag.com/users/nosimport/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 16:13:50 -0500 (EST)
From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Subject: RE: E Coating, was Powder Coating

>The areas of concern for me are the joints between the pieces of metal
>that are factory spot welded together and between the water drainage
>catcher underneath the bonnet and the firewall.  It's seems quite
>difficult to get anything in there to get rid of the rust other than
>dipping it.  If blasting works, I'd give that a shot.
>Thanks,
>Kevin
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>Kevin
>Greenville SC
The quality of the work will depend on the person doing the blasting.  The
old guy doing mine did a fine job and it turned out great for  $30 or $40 I
don't remember exactly.

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
Pittsburgh, Pa.

------------------------------

From: "Chris Dillard"<cdillard@Aholdusa.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 16:56:28 -0500
Subject: MPG

NO FLAMES PLEASE!!!! (just my opinion)
I'm just as worried about gas mileage as the next guy, but it is my opinion
that we knew what we were getting when we purchased our Rovers. We didn't
buy them to get great gas mileage, we bought them for their Off-Road
capabilities. If we had wanted super great gas mileage we would have bought
a Toyota or some small 4 cylinder deal. Great mileage is not one of rovers
strong points and shouldn't be with it's size engine and full time 4wd.
It' interesting to compare MPG, but the point is mute. There, my  $.02
worth!!  NO FLAMES PLEASE !!!!(just my opinion)

Chris
91 RR County SWB (w/ a few extra's)

------------------------------

From: RykRover <RykRover@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 17:17:00 EST
Subject: Re: MPG

Chris that`s the funny thing , I had a toyota 4wd v-6 truck and I only got 20
mpg out of it vs. the 18-19 with the Disco . If the toyota was locked in 4wd
the mpg went down to 12-13 range(got 9 mpg once). Think that the Rovers are
not as bad as everybody thinks.(yes D-90 mpg is very ugly but............)
Just something to think about, 
                                   Rick
`63 SIIa 88''
`94 D-90 soft top
`96 Disco 5 spd SD

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 18:53:05 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: NA Auto Show

The LR display at the NA Auto Show in Detroit includes the "first" 1948
LR. I think it is the one usually identified as pre-production #1. The
exhibit also includes a large screen playing a history of LR (including
RR, etc.) video tape. Pretty interesting with a lot of early footage.
Otherwise the exhibit is strictly Discos and RRs. No mention of the
Freelander.

Regards,
David Cockey
Rochester, MI

------------------------------

From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Subject: Rubber grease
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 21:44:51 +1100

Alexander P. Grice wrote:
>Ahhh...the mythical Girling Rubber Grease.  For years, small tetrahedonal-
shaped packets would be included in "genuine" Girling rebuild kits.  Then,
these disappeared, some time in the late '70'.  As a result, owners hoarded
the stuff and jealously guarded it like gold

I bought a 500gram pot of it recently at my local auto parts store or
KMart - I can't remeber which.  Look for Castrol GRR (B).  It wan't too
dear - about A$6.00 (US$3.90)

Regards,
Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, NSW, Australia
'86 Range Rover 4.8L auto (The Last Aquila)
'71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660 1725cc manual
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc auto
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc manual
check my home page at
http://www.users.bigpond.com/hillman

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 00:27:24 -0600 (CST)
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@ricochet.net>
Subject: Re: MPG

At 04:56 PM 1/9/98 -0500, you wrote:
>NO FLAMES PLEASE!!!! (just my opinion)

Not a flame...

>I'm just as worried about gas mileage as the next guy, but it is my opinion
>that we knew what we were getting when we purchased our Rovers. We didn't

I can't speak for everyone, but when I bought my first Land Rover, it coulda
gotten .001mpg and it wouldn't have mattered.  Still, I suppose somewhere in
some dark corner of my mind, I knew that it wasn't an economy car.  

I was pretty happy with my ~16mpg too; it isn't much worse than many newer
non-econoboxes, andI didn't drive it much anyway (no commuting or anything.)

Mind you, that doesn't stop me from wanting the best mileage I can get and
doing everything I can (with in reason) to improve it.

>It' interesting to compare MPG, but the point is mute. There, my  $.02
 
But if I say I'm getting 16mpg and you say you're getting 25mpg, you can bet
I'm gonna ask how you're doing it, and it's no longer moot.

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
roger@sinasohn.com                           that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 21:59:02 -1000
From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Subject: Re: MPG

	I'll bite Uncle Roger.  How do you get 16 mpg.  My 88 only gets 15 in the
hills here.  If we have to drive a dog slow car, it could at least deliver
22 mpg like the VW buses that constantly pass me going up hill.
	The dog slow performance I can live with, I've owned 4 volkswagen vans and
made three transcontinental trips in them.  But I'd like to get better
mileage that does not involve going even slower as in a 2.25l diesel.
Still looking for that magic bullet, 0-60 in 6 seconds, able to climb
trees, deliver 25 mpg, cost as little to own as my 30 year old series
rovers and as easy to fix if anything goes wrong.
Aloha Peter  

At 12:27 AM 1/10/98 -0600, you wrote:
>At 04:56 PM 1/9/98 -0500, you wrote:
>>NO FLAMES PLEASE!!!! (just my opinion)
>Not a flame...
>>I'm just as worried about gas mileage as the next guy, but it is my opinion
>>that we knew what we were getting when we purchased our Rovers. We didn't

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 32 lines)]
>Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
>San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 01:38:48 -0700
From: "meek" <meek@shaw.wave.ca>
Subject: 1970 Land Rover questions

	I understand the list is knowledgeable about Land Rovers
and perhaps someone could answer my questions about them. My
only experience with British vehicles was thirty years ago when I
accumulated many speeding tickets in my beloved Austin-Healy
sports car.  Anyway.........

	One of my relatives is in Guatamala and is giving serious
thought to buying a rust free 1970 Land Rover short wheel base,
station wagon.  He hopes to make it an adventure to drive it back 
to the U.S. or to Alberta, Canada, where he lives, and then sell it to 
help pay for the trip.  This is assuming that it will make the thousands 
of miles of the return trip without a serious breakdown.  If it does 
breakdown, what do Roverites do for spares? Air ship in from the UK? 
Cry on the Land Rover mailing list, and pray a member will sell him 
the exotic part that is needed to continue the journey? No new spares 
are available so you must custom fabricate your own?

	Also, is there somewhat of a demand for these beasts? 
Should one concentrate on a sale of the Rover in the U.S. simply
because of greater population and hence greater demand than
in Canada?
	
	What would a 1970 Rover that is in fairly
good shape and not rusty be worth in approximate terms?

	I appreciate any help you can offer on the above.

thanks,

gary meek
sherwood park, alberta
canada

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 05:37:56 EST
Subject: Up North

Brrr. Just saw the news on CNN and it looks cold in Canada. Saw a Land Rover
going across an ice covered intersection. It *wasn't* the Green Beastie (or
The Green Rover tm), because it looked like a reddish shade of green. As well
as that, it was a Disco.

With the reports of Ice Storms, etc., I hope all the LRO's up there get some
power and warmth soon.

pat 
93 110

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